THE  LIBRARY 


THE  UNIVERSITY 


OF  CALIFORNIA 


THE  GASTRONOMY  COLLECTION  OF 
GEORGE  HOLL 

AGRIC. 
LIBRARY 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE 


\J 


X  SIX  VOLUMES) 


VOLUMB     I 


TREATING  OF  AMERICAN  VEGETABLES,  AND  ALL  ALIMENTARY  PLANTS, 

ROOTS  AND  SEEDS. 


Designed  for  the  Use  of  Families,  Hotels  and  Restaurants 


BY  JULES  ARTHUR  HARDER 

CHEF  DE  CUISINE,  PALACE  HOTEL 


SAN  FKANCISCO 

1885 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1885,  by 

JULES  ABTHUB  HARDER, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


indication. 


A  friendship  of  many  years'  duration,  and  an  appreciation  of  his  kindly 

and  generous  disposition,  as  well  as  of  his  cultivated 

taste,    impel  me  to   dedicate 


THESE    VOLUMES 


ALEXANDER  DUMAS  SHARON",  ESQUIRE 


Notable  among  the  whole-souled  Californians  who  have  kept  step  with 
the  spirit  and  progress  of  the  age. 


AGRIC. 
LIBRARY 


PREFACE. 


'•'  What ! " — the  reader  may  exclaim — "Another  book  on  cookery ! 
Have  we  not  Careme  and  Francatelli,  Yatel  and  Soyer,  Ude  and 
Gouffe,  Miss  Acton  and  Mrs.  Beeton,  Meg  Dodds  and  Mrs.  Hale, 
and  scores  of  other  authorities  on  the  same  subject  ?  Must  every 
cook  be  an  author,  and  we  be  asked  to  read  his  book,  as  well  as  to 
eat  of  the  dishes  he  prepares?"  Gentle  reader,  it  is  to  anticipate 
this  possible  state  of  mind,  and  to  answer  these  probable  questions, 
that  this  explanatory  preface  is  submitted.  Many  a  dish  is  cooked 
that  is  not  worth  the  time  and  trouble,  even  by  an  ordinarily  edu- 
cated palate,  given  to  its  discussion,  and  many  a  book  written — 
especially  on  the  subject  of  Cookery — the  reading  of  which  is  worse 
than  time  wasted.  There  have  been  innumerable  Cook  Books  for 
popular  use  published,  I  grant  you ;  but  if  you  ask  nine  out  of  ten 
persons  who  consult  them,  they  will  tell  you  they  become  more 
and  more  perplexed  as  they  attempt  to  follow  their  guidance. 
The  housekeeper  will  confess  she  has  been  led  into  errors  by  their 
vague  recipes,  injurious  to  the  family  health,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
•expensive  to  the  family  purse.  It  is  to  dissipate  this  fog  enveloping 
the  literature  of  the  kitchen  that  the  publication  of  the  BOOK  OF 
AMERICAN  PRACTICAL  COOKERY  is  undertaken.  The  author  claims 
that  the  work  is  the  result  of  a  lifetime  of  study,  constant  observa- 
tion, and  practical  experience  in  the  best  culinary  establishments 
of  both  Continents.  He,  therefore,  brings  to  his  task  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  subject,  and  asserts,  fearless  of  successful  contra- 
diction, that  the  result  of  his  labors  will  be  the  only  competent, 
treatise — applying  culinary  science  especially  to  the  material  condi- 
tions of  this  country — ever  written.  He  intends  it  for  a  trustworthy 
guide  to  all  what  to  eat  and  drink,  and  what  to  avoid. 


VI  PKEFACE. 

In  pursuance  of  the  plan  laid  down,  lie  proposes  to  embrace 
the  whole  list  of  food  articles,  their  selection,  treatment,  and  best 
method  of  preparing  them  for  the  table,  showing  how  the  utmost 
value  can  be  obtained  from  every  edible  designed  by  the  Almighty 
for  the  comfort  and  nourishment  of  mankind.  It  is  due  to  the 
intelligence  of  the  present  age  that  there  should  no  longer  be  room 
for  the  old  sneer  of  the  dyspeptic  cynic:  "  God  sends  the  material,, 
but  the  Devil  sends  cooks." 

To  accomplish  this  important  object  will  require  at  least  six 
volumes.  Marie  Antoine  Careme,  the  great  French  cook,  who  lived 
between  the  years  1784  and  1833,  and  who  was  called  the  "regen- 
erator of  cookery,"  took  twelve  volumes  to  give  Europe  of  his  day 
the  information  which  the  author  of  the  present  series  proposes  to 
give  America  of  the  present,  in  six.  Each  volume  of  the  AMERICAN 
PRACTICAL  COOKERY  series  will  be  devoted  to  a  leading  food  staple. 
This,  the  first  volume,  deals  with  vegetables  and  all  alimentary 
plants,  roots,  and  seeds  grown  on  the  American  continent,  with  full 
remarks  of  the  best  varieties,  their  mode  of  cultivation,  cooking, 
dishing,  and  other  matters  of  interest  connected  with  this  branch  of 
the  culinary  art — one,  by  the  wray,  of  no  small  importance,  but  to 
which  generally  scant  attention  is  paid  by  the  household,  and  even 
by  the  club  and  hotel,  cook. 

It  comes  quite  in  place  here  to  give  a  few  cursory  hints  on  the 
subject-matter  more  definitely  and  precisely  stated  in  the  body  of 
this  volume.  In  preparing  all  alimentary  plants  for  the  table,  the 
best,  freshest,  and  those  in  season,  should  always  be  chosen.  Stale 
or  decayed  vegetables,  or  those  that  have  been  overheated  in  pack- 
ing, or  bruised  in  transportation,  are  unwholesome.  Avoid  them 
if  you  value  your  health.  Preserved  vegetables  should  not  be  used 
for  the  table,  if  they  can  be  possibly  declined.  Where  their  use 
cannot  be  avoided,  be  careful  to  select  those  put  up  at  creditable 
establishments,  with  the  name  of  the  proprietor  or  company,  and 
the  quality  of  the  goods  marked  plainly  on  the  package.  Often 
flashy  and  picturesque  labels  conceal  germs  of  disease,  in  the  shape 
of  imperfectly  preserved  vegetables,  sufficient  to  cause  an  epidemic. 
Vegetables  should  only  be  freely  eaten  in  the  spring,  because  most 
kinds  are  then  seasonable,  and  consequently  wholesome  and  nutri- 
tious. Some  of  the  few  fall  varieties  are  improved  by  light  frosts. 


PKEFACE.  yii 

Vegetables  forced  in  hot-houses  are  not  as  good  as  those  grown  in 
the  open  air,  and  subjected  to  ordinary  natural  conditions.  The 
variety  of  climate  with  which  the  United  States  is  blessed,  promotes 
the  growth  of  every  variety  of  fruit  and  vegetable  known  in  the 
world,  and  the  facilities  for  transportation  put  nearly  every  section 
of  our  country  on  the  same  footing,  so  far  as  the  enjoyment  at  their 
best  of  the  products  of  each  is  concerned. 

In  cooking  vegetables,  good  pure  water  is  essential.  To  cook 
green  vegetables  properly,  they  should  be  put  into  a  vessel  while 
the  water,  is  boiling — the  pot  remaining  uncovered.  By  this  means 
they  will  retain  their  natural  color.  Vegetables  can  be  served  with 
each  course,  or  alone,  before  or  after  the  roast.  It  is  better  that 
they  precede  the  roast,  as  the  appetite  is  thereby  improved  for  the 
course  that  follows.  Too  many  vegetables  should  not  be  served 
with  a  dinner.  They  ought  to  be  selected  with  care  according  to 
the  course  they  accompany.  These  hints,  although  general,  will 
serve  a  good  purpose  in  awakening  attention. 

In  conclusion,  the  author  may,  without  egotism,  again  state,  that 
he  feels  confident  in  his  ability  to  make  this  series  on  AMERICAN 
PRACTICAL  COOKERY  a  standard  work,  because  he  is  practically 
acquainted  with  the  details  of  every  branch  on  which  he  writes, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  familiar  with  the  broader  requirements  of 
the  culinary  profession.  A  chief  cook,  besides  being  versed  in  the 
technique  of  the  kitchen,  should  also  be  a  good  judge  of  the  kinds, 
qualities  and  uses  of  every  dietetic  article.  As  the  old  Greek  comic 
poet  Dionysius,  says: 

"  To  roast  some  beef,  to  carve  with  neatness, 
To  blow  up  sauces,  and  to  blow  the  fire, 
Is  anybody's  task;  he  who  does  this 
Is  but  a  seasoner  and  a  broth-maker. 
A  cook  is  quite  another  thing.     His  mind 
Must  comprehend  all  facts  and  circumstances, 
Where  is  the  place,  and  what  the  time  of  supper, 
Who  are  the  guests,  and  who  the  entertainer, 
What  fish  he  ought  to  buy,  and  where  he  ought  to  buy  it,"  etc. 

The  author  does  not  expect  to  realize  a  fortune  by  this  publica- 
tion. The  work  is,  in  a  degree,  a  labor  of  love,  prompted  as  much 
by  a  desire  to  benefit  the  culinary  art,  as  by  any  other  feeling.  But 


Till  PREFACE. 

though  his  reward  may  not  reach  the  munificent  one  of  Antony's 
cook,  who  received  a  city  for  his  skill  in  arranging  a  Cleopatra  ban- 
quet, he  feels  assured  at  least  of  the  gratitude  of  all  those  who  wish 
to  intelligently  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  the  table,  and  of  the  hearty 
appreciation  of  his  fellow-workers  in  the  important  field  of  culinary 

science. 

J.  A.  H. 

NOTE. 


By  The  entire  work  on  "AMERICAN  PRACTICAL  COOKERY,"  now  in  course  of  preparation  by  Mr. 
Harder,  will  consist  of  six  volumes,  each  devoted  to  a  particular  article  of  food — soups,  fish,  flesh, 
fowl,  farinace,  sauces,  conserves,  liqueurs,  &c.— and  each  treated  in  the  same  thoroughly  exhaustive 
manner  exemplified  in  this,  the  first  of  the  series.  Prefixed,  is  a  glossary  of  such  technical  terms 
and  phrases  as  occur  in  the  text  of  this  volume,  and  which  the  general  reader  may  have  need  to 
consult.  A  copious  index  will  also  facilitate  reference  to  the  different  details  of  the  subjects  treated. 
Due  notice  will  be  given  of  the  appearance  of  Volume  II  of  the  series. 


INDEX  TO  ARTICLES. 


ENGLISH. 


Alecost 134 

Alexanders 1 

Alkekengi 345 

Allspice 5 

A  mbrosia '.....  1 

Angelica 2 

Anise 3 

Aromatic  Herbs 4 

Aromatic  Nigelle 5 

Arrow-Boot  Plant 193 

Artichoke 6 

Asparagus 18 

Asparagus  Bean 26 

Balm 26 

Balm-mint 27 

Barley 27 

Basil,  Sweet 29 

Bay  Leaves  (Common) 30 

Bay  Leaves  (Larustine)  .....  30 

Beans 30 

Beets 47 

Bene 51 

Black  Salsify 321 

Boletus  (Esculent) 52 

Borage 53 

Borecole 176 

Briar  Leaves 53 

Brocoli 53 

Brookline   55 

Brussels  Sprouts 55 

Buck's-horn .  57 

Buckwheat 57 

Bugloss 59 


Burnet 59 

Cabbage 60 

Calabash 75 

Calamint 75 

Cantaloupe 75 

Capers 78 

Capillary 78 

Caraway .  : 79 

Cardoon 79 

Carrot 83 

Caterpillar 89 

Catnip 89 

Catsup 89 

Cauliflower 90 

Celeriac 94 

Celery 97 

Centaury 105 

Cepes 208 

Chamomile 105 

Chervil 106 

Chestnut 106 

Chick  Pea 108 

Chickling  Wetch 109 

Chicoree 157 

Chiccory 109 

Chinese  Spinach 109 

Chinese  Yam,  or  Potato 110 

Chives ,. 110 

Chives  (Common) Ill 

Chufa Ill 

Cicely,  Sweet 112 

Cinnamon .   112 

Clary 112 


INDEX    TO   ARTICLES. 


Clavaria 113 

Cloves 113 

Cocks-head,  Plantain 57 

Cocoa 113 

Coffee 116 

Colt'  s-f oot  (Common) .'....,.    119 

Common  Gourds 75 

Coquelicot 120 

Coriander 120 

Corn 122 

Corn  Poppy 120 

Corn  Salad 121 

Cos  Lettuce 133 

Costmary 134 

Couch  Grass 133 

Cranberry 134 

Cress  (Garden) 136 

Cress  (Pepper) 135 

Cress,  (Water) 136 

Cuckoo-flower  Cress 145 

Cucumber 137 

Cumin 145 

Curcuma 373 

Curry 145 

Dandelion 146 

Diet  Drinks 147 

Dill 147 

Earth  Nut Ill 

Egg  Plant 151 

Egyptian  Cucumber 156 

Egyptian  Pea 108 

Elderberries 156 

Elecampane 157 

Endive 157 

Eschalot 326 

Essences 165 

Extracts 165 

Farina 160 

Fecula 163 

Fennel  (Sweet) 164 

Flavors 165 

Flour 165 

Garbure 166 

Garlic . .  166 


Gherkin 167 

Ginger 167 

Globe  Cucumber 168 

Goose-foot 168 

Graham  Flour 169 

Green  Peppers 253 

Gumbo 223 

Herbs 169 

Hoarhouud 173 

Hollyhock 171 

Hoosung 171 

Hops 171 

Horse-Eadish 173 

Hyssop 175 

Indian  Star  Anise-seed 175 

Iris  Boot 239 

Japan  Pea 175 

Jasmine 176 

Jerusalem  Artichokes 17 

Juniper 176 

Kale 176 

Kohl-Rabi 380 

Lamb  Lettuce 121 

Laurel  Leaves  (Common) 30 

Laurel  Leaves  (Larustine)  ...      30 

Lavender 178 

Leek 178 

Lens 180 

Lentil 180 

Lettuce 182 

Licorice 189 

Lima  Beans 189 

Lime  Tree 191 

Linden  Tree 191 

Lovage 191 

Lupine 191 

Mace 192 

Madras  Kadish 192 

Mallow  (Curled  leaved) 193 

Manioca 351 

Maranta 193 

Marjoram 194 

Marsh  Mallow 195 

Medical  Herbs..  4  . 


INDEX   TO   ARTICLES. 


Mellilot 196 

Mint 196 

Morel 197 

Mountain  Spinach 237 

Mullein 199 

Mullen 199 

Mushrooms 199 

Muskmelon 211 

Mustard 215 

Nasturtium 217 

Nettle 218 

New  Zealand  Spinach 219 

Nutmeg, 219 

Oak(commonwallGermander)  220 

Oats 221 

Okra 223 

Onions 225 

Oosung 171 

Orach 237 

Orris 239 

Oxalis 239 

Oyster  Plant 316 

Pak-choi 240 

Palmate  leaved  Rhubarb ....  240 

Palm  Cabbage 240 

Parsley 241 

Parsnips 242 

Patience 244 

Peanuts 245 

Peas 246 

Pennyroyal 253 

Pepper 253 

Pepper  Grass. 135 

Peppermint 258 

Persian  Melons 75 

Pickles 259 

Picridium 260 

Pigeon  Berry    260 

Pi-Tsai 259 

Poke 260 

Poppy 261 

Portugal  Cabbage 261 

Potatoes 262 

Pot  Herbs . .  4 


Pumpkin 281 

Purslain 283 

Radish 283 

Rampion 288 

Rampion  or  Primrose 289 

Rape 289 

Red  Cabbage 290 

Rhubarb 290 

Rice 293 

Rocambole 308 

Rocket 308 

Romaine 133 

Rose  Mallow 171 

Rosemary 309 

Rue 310 

Russian  Turnip 310 

Ruta  Baga 310 

Rye 311 

Saffron , 312 

Sage 313 

Sago 314 

Salad  Garnitures 316 

Salep 318 

Salsify 316 

Salt   319 

Saltpeter 319 

Samphire 319 

Savory 320 

Savoy  Cabbage 321 

Scorzonara 321 

Scurvy  Grass 322 

Sea  Beet 322 

Sea  Fennel 319 

Sea  Kale 323 

Sea  Kale  Beet 350 

Semoule 324 

Shallot 326 

Shepherd's  Purse 327 

Sieva 328 

Skirret 328 

Small  Lima  Bean 328 

Snake  Cucumber 329 

Sorrel 329 

Southerwood. . .  332 


Xll 


INDEX   TO   ARTICLES. 


Spanish  Lentil 109 

.Spanish  Oyster  Plant 333 

Spearmint 333 

Speedwell 55 

Spices 334 

Spinach 336 

Spinach  (Chinese) 109 

Spinnage 336 

Squash 339 

Strawberry  Tomato 345 

Succory 109 

-Swedish  Turnip 310 

Sweet  Cicely 112 

Sweet  Fennel 164 

Sweet  Potatoes 346 

Sweet  Scented  Chervil 112 

Swiss  Chard 350 

Tansy 350 

Tapioca .      .   351 

Tare '.  401 

Tarragon 352 

Tea 352 

Thyme 355 

Tisanes    147 

Tomato...  .   355 


Tonka  Bean 368 

Truffles 368 

Tuberous    Rooted    Chickling 

Wetch,  orPea 372 

Tuberous  Rooted  Wood  Sorrel  239 

Turmeric 373 

Turnip 373 

Turnip  Cabbage 380 

Turnip  Booted  Celery 94 

Turnip  Rooted  Chervil 382 

Unicorn  Boot 382 

Valerian 383 

Vanilla , 383 

Vegetables,    384 

Venus  Hair 78 

Vetch 401 

Water  Cress 136 

Watermelon 401 

Welsh  Onion 110 

Wheat 404: 

White  Quinoa 168 

Winged  Pea 407 

Wit  Loef 407 

Wood  Sorrel 407 

Wormwood  .  .   408 


FRENCH. 


Absinthe 408 

Achars  .    167 

Ail   . .  . 166 

Alisandre 1 

Amarante 109 

Ambrosie 1 

Aneth 147 

Angelique 2 

Angelique  a  feuille  d'ache .  .  .  191 

Anis   ...    3 

AnisEtoile 175 

Anserine 168 

Arachis. .                                    .  245 


Armoise 408 

Arroche 237 

Arrowroot 193 

Artichaut 6 

Asperge 18 

Aubergine 151 

Aunee 1 57 

Aurome  Citronnelle 332 

Avoine  (Farine  'd) 221 

Badiane 175 

Basilic   29 

Baume 26 

Ben   .  51 


INDEX   TO   ARTICLES. 


Xlll 


Berle  Chervi 328 

Bette 322 

Betterave 47 

Ble  noir 57 

Bouillon  Blanc 199 

Bourrache 53 

Buglose 59 

Cafe 116 

Calament 75 

Calamus 75 

Camomille 105 

Canneberge 134 

Cannelle 112 

Cantaloup 75 

Capillaire 78 

Capre    78 

Capselle 327 

Capucine 217 

Carde  Poiree 350 

Cardon 79 

Garrotte 83 

Carvi 79 

Catsup 89 

Celeri 97 

Celeri  Have 94 

Centauree 105 

Cdpes 52 

Cerfeuil 106 

Cerfeuil  Odorant 112 

Cerfeuil  enracind 382 

Champignon 199 

Champignon  (Clavaria) 113 

Chataigne 106 

Chiche 108 

Chiccore'e 109 

Chicore'e 157 

Chiendent 133 

Choufleur 90 

Chou  Eave 380 

Chou  Savoy 321 

Choux  Brocoli 53 

Choux  de  Bruxelles 55 

Choux  Marins 323 

Choux  Palmiste . .  .  240 


Choux  Pi  Tsai 259' 

Choux  Pommd 60 

Choux  Portugais. 261 

Choux  Eouge   '290 

Choux  Yert 176 

Ciboulette Ill 

Citrouille 75 

Citrouille 281 

Cive 110 

Civette 110 

Cochlearia 322 

Cocoa  ou  Coco 113 

Colza 289 

Concombre 137 

Concombre  des  Prophetes.  . .    168 

Concombre  Egyptien 15fr 

Concombre  Serpentine ....       329 

Coquelicot 1201 

Coriaiidre 120 

Corn  de  serf 57 

Cornichon 167 

Cornichon 259^ 

Courge 3391 

Crambe  Maritime 323 

Cresson , .   135 

Cresson  Alenois  de  Jardin.  . .   136 

Cresson  de  Fontaine 136 

Cresson  e'le'gant  des  pro's 145 

Cressonne'e  Veronique 55 

Crete  Marine 319 

Cumin 145 

Curcuma 373 

Echalote 326- 

Epice 334 

Epinard 336 

Epinard  belle  dame 219* 

Essence 165 

Estragon 352 

Farina 160 

Farine 165 

Farine  Graham 160 

Ferule 163 

Fenouil 164 

Feuille  de  Konce . .  53 


XIV 


INDEX   TO   ARTICLES. 


FeVe 189 

FeVe  (Petite) 328 

Fleur  de  Lis 239 

Fourniture  de  Salade 316 

Froment 404 

Garbure 166 

Genie  vre 176 

Gerofle  (clou  de) ,   113 

Gesse 109 

Gesse 372 

Gingembre 167 

Glan  de  terre Ill 

Gourge    339 

Graine  de  Surreau 156 

Guimauve 195 

Gumbo... 223 

Haricot , . . .  .     30 

Haricot  Asperge 26 

Herbe 169 

Houplon 171 

Hysope 175 

Igname 110 

Iris 239 

Jasmin , .   176 

Kari 145 

Laitue 182 

Laurier  Amande 30 

Laurier  Franc  ou  d'Appolon..     30 

Lavande 178 

Legume  Varie'e 384 

Lentilles   180 

Lupin 191 

Mache 121 

Macis , 192 

Mais 122 

Manioc 351 

Marjolaine 194 

Marrube 173 

Mauve 193 

Melilot 196 

Melisse 27 

Melon  d'eau 401 

Melon  Muscat 211 

Menthe . .  196 


Menthe  Poivre' 258 

Menthe  Verte 333 

Molene 199 

Morille 197 

Mousseron 199 

Mcutarde .  .  , 215 

Muscade  (noix  de) 219 

Navet 373 

Navet  Have 310 

Nepeta 89 

Oignon 225 

Oosung 171 

Orge 27 

Ortie   218 

Oseille 329 

Oseille  Oxalide 407 

Oxalis 239 

Pak-choi 240 

Panais 242 

Patate 346 

Patience 244 

Pavot 261 

Persil 241 

Petits  Chene 220 

Picridium 260 

Piment 5 

Piment  Vert 253 

Pimprenelle 59 

Pisse  en  lit 146 

Plantain 57 

Plante   et  Herbes,   Aromatic 

et  Medicinal 4 

Poireau 178 

Pois 246 

Pois  Japonais 175 

Pois  Eame 407 

Poivre 253 

Pomme  de  terre 262 

Potiron 75 

Potiron  gourge 281 

Pouliot 253 

Pourpier 283 

Primevere 289 

Quatre  Epice 5 


INDEX   TO   AETICLES. 


XV 


Radis 283 

Radis  Madras 192 

Raifort 173 

Raiponce 288 

Reglisse 189 

Rhubarbe 290 

Rlmbarbe  des  Moinos 240 

Riz 293 

Rocambole 308 

Romaine 133 

Rornaine  Blanche 407 

Romarin 309 

Eoquette   308 

Rose  Tre'miere 171 

Rue 310 

Sachet 260 

Satfran 312 

Sagou 314 

Salep  ou  Saloop 318 

Salpetre 319 

Salsifis  316 

Salsifis 333 

Sarrasin 57 

Sarriette 320 

Sauge 313 

Scarole .  .  157 


Sclaree 112 

Scorpiure 89 

Scorsone're 321 

Seigle 311 

Sel 319 

Semoule 324 

Sieve  (Petite  Feve) 328 

Tanaisie ...    350 

Tanaisie  Barbotine 134 

Tapioca 351 

The' 352 

Thym , 355 

Tilleul 191 

Tisane 147 

Tomate 355 

Tomate  (fraize) 345 

Tonka  (Feve  de) 368 

Topinambour 17 

Trufte., 368 

Turmeric 373 

Tussilage 119 

Unicorn 382 

Valeriane 383 

Vanille 383 

Vesce . .  .   401 


GERMAN. 


Adsung 171 

Alant 157 

Alantwurzel 157 

Amaranth 109 

Ambrosia 1 

Andorn 173 

Angelika 2 

Anis   3 

Aromatishe  und  Mediziuishe, 

Griiuter 4 

Arrowmehl 193 

Artishoke . .  6 


Baldrian -. 383 

Barenzuker 189 

Basilikum 29 

Bataten 346 

Baumgamander 220 

Bene 51 

Bind  Salat 133 

Blatter  Kohl 176 

Blaukraut 290 

BlumeuEohl 90 

Bohne 30 

Bohne  (Lima) 189 


XVI 


INDEX   TO    ARTICLES. 


Bolme  (Sieva) 328 

Boretsch 53 

Brier  blatter 53 

Brocoli 53 

Brunnen  Kresse 130 

Buchweitzen 57 

Camomile 105 

Catchup 89 

Cepes 52 

Cepes 208 

Champignon 199 

Champignon  (Clavaria) 113 

Chich 108 

Chineschen  Kohl 259 

Cichorie 157 

Cigorien 109 

Cocoa 113 

Curcumei 373 

Diatetishe  Getranke 147 

Dill 147 

Dragun 352 

Egyptishe  Gurke 156 

Eierpflanze 151 

Einhornwurzel 382 

Endive 157 

Erbsen 246 

Erdartishoke 17 

Erdnus Ill 

Erdnus 245 

Ertshwamm 199 

Essiggurke 167 

Essiggurken 259 

Extrakt '. 165 

Farina 160 

Fecula 163 

Fenchel 164 

Forellen  Salat 133 

Frauenhaar  Syrup 78 

Frauenmiinze 134 

Frauenmiinze 333 

Garbiir.  .  .  166 

• 

Gartenampfer 244 

Gartenkerbel 106 

Gartenmiinze . .  ,   196 


Gemiise 384 

Gerste 27 

Gesse    109 

Gurke 137 

Hafermehl 221 

Haferwurz 333 

Haferwurz 316 

Haferwurzel 321 

Hohllauch 110 

Holunclerbeere  .;.... 156 

Hopfen 171 

Huflattish 119 

Indishe  Kresse 217 

Ingwer 167 

Iris 239 

Isop 175 

Japan  Erbse    175 

Kaffee 116 

Kalaminth 75 

Kaper 78 

Kardon 79 

Kari 145 

Kartoffeln 262 

Kastanie 106 

Katzenkraut 89 

Kleberkraut 168 

Knoblauch 166 

Knol  Seller! 94 

Knotig  Gartenkerbel 382 

Knotig  Gesse 372 

Kohlriibe 380 

Kopfkohl 60 

Koriander 120 

Korn 122 

Korn 311 

Korn 404 

Kornrose 120 

Krauter 169 

Kresse 186 

Kuckuk's  Blume 145 

Kugulgurke 168 

Kiimmel 79 

Kiimmel 145 

Kiirbis  .  75 


INDEX  TO  ARTICLES. 


XV11 


Kiirbis 281 

Kiirbis 339 

Liimmersalat 121 

Lattichsalat 182 

Lauch 178 

Lavendel 178 

Liebesapfel 355 

Liebesapfel  (erdbeere) 345 

Liebstockel 191 

Linde 191 

Linse 180 

Lotfelkraut 322 

Lorbeerblatt  (common)., 30 

Lorbeerblatt  (Larustine) 30 

LiJvenzahn 146 

Mailander  Kohl 321 

Mias 122 

Halve 193 

Mangold 322 

Marjoram 194 

Meerettig 173 

Heerf enchel 319 

MeerKohl *..  323 

Mehl 165 

Mehl  Graham 169 

Melisse 26 

Melisse 27 

Mellilot , 196 

Melone 75 

Melone  (Muskat) 211 

Mijehre 83 

Mohnsamen 261 

Moosbeere 134 

Morchel 197 

Morcheln  (Cepes) 52 

Muskatenbluthe 192 

Muskatennus 219 

Nelken 113 

Nessel 218 

Ochenzunge 59 

Ocher 223 

Orrach          237 

Oxalis 239 

Pak-choi.                                  .  240 


Palm  Kohl ...  240 

Paradiesfeige 57 

Pastinake 242 

Petersilie 241 

Pfeffer 253 

Pf  effergurke . . . . , 167 

Pf effermiinze 258 

Picridium 260 

Pillenfarn 135 

Piment 5 

Pimpinelle 59 

Poke 260 

Polei 253 

Portulak 283 

Portugal  Kohl 261 

Queckengrass 133 

Eapunzel 288 

Eaupenpflanzen 89 

Eailte 310 

Eeis 293 

Eettig 283 

Eettig  (Madras) 192 

Ehabarber 240 

Rhabarber 290 

Eocambole 308 

Roggen 311 

Eosenpappel  .    171 

Eosmarin 309 

Both  Kohl 290 

Eiibe 373 

Riibesamen 289 

Eunkel  Eube 47 

Saffran 312 

Sago 314 

Salbei 313 

Salat  Kriiuter 316 

Salep 318 

Saltpeter 319 

Salz 319 

Sammetpappel 195 

Saturei 320 

Sauerampt'er   329 

Savoyer  Kohl 321 

Seekohl..                                 .  323 


XV111 


INDEX  TO   ARTICLES. 


PAGE 

Seller! 97 

Semoule 324 

Senf   215 

Scharlei.... 112 

Schlangengurke 329 

Schlusselblume 289 

Schnittlauch Ill 

Shallotte 326 

Smy  men  kraut 1 

Sourklee 407 

Spanish  Kerbel 112 

Spargel 18 

Spargel  Bolme 26 

Spargel  Erbse 407 

Spargel  Kohl 53 

Spinat .  336 

Spinat  (Belle  dame) 219 

Sprossen  Kohl 55 

Stabwurz 332 

Steckrube 310 

Sternanis 175 

Siishols 189 

Tapioca 351 

Taschelkraut..                        .  327 


Tausendgiildenkrant 105 

Thee 352 

Thymian 355 

Toiikabohne 368 

Triiffel 368 

Vanille 383 

Vermouth 408 

Wachholderbeere 176 

Wassermelone 401 

Weiserendivien 407 

Weitzen 404 

Wicke 401 

Wilde  Krausemiinze 55 

Winterkresse 308 

Wolfsbohne 191 

Wollkraut 199 

Wurmkraut 350 

Wiirze 334 

Yamwurzel 110 

Yasmin 176 

Younge  mangoldpflanze 350 

Zimmet 112 

Zuckerrwurzel 328 

Zwiebeln .  .  .225 


GLOSSARY 


-OF- 


WORDS  AND  TERMS  USED  IN  THIS  BOOK. 


Allemande. — Allemande  sauce  is  not  of  German  origin,  as  the  name 
would  imply,  but  is  the  mother  and  stock  of  the  white  French 
sauces.  It  is  made  with  veal  and  chicken  broth,  and  is  then  called 
Veloute'e.  After  this  the  yolks  of  eggs,  lemon  juice,  and  essence 
of  mushrooms  are  added.  It  is  fully  described  in  the  "  Book 
on  Sauces."  When  this  sauce  can  not  be  made  conveniently  a 
substitute  can  be  made  by  thickening  a  veal  or  chicken  broth, 
the  same  as  for  butter  sauce,  letting  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Put  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs  in  a  saucepan  with  four  spoon- 
fuls of  cream,  and  mix  in  slowly  one  quart  of  the  thickened 
veal  or  chicken  sauce.  Add  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  set  it  on  the  fire.  Stir  it 
continually  until  it  boils,  then  strain  it  through  a  sauce  towel. 
Put  it  in  a  saucepan  and  place  small  pieces  of  butter  on  top  to 
prevent  a  crust  from  forming. 

Annual. — Annual  plants  are  those  that  must  be  sown  every  year. 

Aroma. — The  quality  or  principle  of  plants  or  seeds  that  constitutes 
their  fragrance.  An  agreeable  odor. 

Aromatic. — A  plant  characterized  by  a  pleasant  smell,  and  usually 
by  a  warm,  pungent  taste. 

Bain-marie. — Literally  a  hot  water  bath.  A  Bain-marie  is  a  square 
pan  in  which  hot  water  is  kept,  and  is  used  to  keep  saucepans 
in  that  contain  sauces  or  stews,  that  are  to  be  kept  warm  before 
serving.  The  water  must  be  kept  almost  at  the  boiling  heat, 
but  never  allowed  to  boil.  The  name  Bain-marie  is  also  applied 
to  the  high  saucepans  that  are  made  expressly  to  sit  in  the 
above  mentioned  Bain-marie  pans. 

Biennial. — Biennial  plants  are  those  that  last  for  two  years  and  then 
perish. 

Blanch. — To  whiten  the  stalks  or  leaves  of  a  plant  by  earthing  them 
up  or  tying  them  together  to  exclude  the  light. 


XX  GLOSSARY. 

Braise. — To  cook  or  stew  in  a  close-covered  saucepan  or  other  vessel 
on  a  slow  fire.  Formerly  hot  coals  were  put  on  the  cover  to 
keep  the  heat  even,  but  an  oven  is  much  better  and  warms  the 
vessel  thoroughly. 

Brisk  Fire. — One  burning  with  a  quick,  free  action. 

Batter. — When  the  expression  "add  apiece  of  butter"  is  used,  it 
depends  on  the  quantity  of  vegetables  cooked.  For  four  per- 
sons, add  a  piece  as  large  as  a  walnut.  For  soups,  add  from 
four  to  six  ounces.  When  it  is  added,  toss  the  vegetables  well 
over  until  the  butter  is  melted.  In  soups,  keep  stirring  until 
the  butter  is  melted.  In  this  way  it  thoroughly  permeates  the 
article  being  cooked,  and  gives  it  a  glossy,  velvety  appearance. 
If  it  is  not  stirred,  it  will  remain  on  the  top  and  impart  a  greasy 
appearance  to  the  food. 

Calyx. — The  outer  covering  of  a  flower. 
Capsule. — The  seed  vessel  of  a  plant. 

Catechu. — A  dry,  brown,  astringent  extract,  obtained  by  decoction 
and  evaporation  from  the  Acacia  Catechu,  in  India.  It  contains 
a  portion  of  tannin  or  tannic  acid. 

Cellulose. — -The  substance  left  after  the  action  of  solvents  on  vege- 
table tissues.  It  is  convertible  into  starch  and  sugar. 

Chopped. — The  term  "chopped"  parsley  or  onions  is  used  often. 
Before  being  chopped,  parsley  must  be  washed,  then  dried  in  a 
towel;  the  large  stems  must  be  removed,  and  then  the  leaves 
are  chopped.  Then  put  it  in  a  towel  and  wring  out  the  moist- 
ure; after  this  dip  it  in  boiling  water  for  a  minute,  then  immerse 
it  in  cold  water  and  squeeze  it  dry.  By  doing  this  it  will  retain 
.  its  green  color  in  cooking.  Onions  should  not  be  chopped  or 
they  will  turn  black;  they  should  be  cut  finely.  Parboiled 
vegetables,  such  as  spinach  or  cabbage,  should  be  drained  first 
and  then  dried  before  being  chopped  on  a  board.  Garlic  has 
a  stronger  flavor  when  mashed  than  when  chopped. 

Clarify. — To  make  clear.  Applied  principally  to  butter,  which 
should  be  melted  over  a  slow  fire  and  then  strained  through  a 
napkin. 

Coagulate. — To  curdle  or  thicken;  to  change  from  a  liquid  to  a  solid 
mass. 

Colander. — A  vessel  with  the  bottom  perforated  with  little  holes  for 
straining. 

Comfrey. — A  genus  of  plants  that  abound  in  mucilage.  An  emol- 
lient drink  is  made  from  the  roots. 


GLOSSARY.  XXI 

Conical. — Fruit,  roots  or  nuts  that  have  the  form  of  a  cone:  round 
and  decreasing  to  a  point. 

Corsican  Sea  Moss. — A  marine  plant  which,  when  boiled  in  water, 
is  used  in  diet  drinks  and  apozems. 

Cutters. — Thero  are  several  kinds  of  cutters  for  cutting  vegetables 
for  garnitures.  They  are  made  of  tin  in  various  shapes — round, 
oval,  square,  etc.  A  vegetable  spoon-cutter  is  a  sort  of  a  knife 
shaped  like  a  spoon,  and  of  numerous  different  sizes. 

Crow-foot. — A  pasture-plant  that  resembles  the  common  buttercup 
in  its  flowers,  and  has  acrid  properties.  If  swallowed  in  its 
fresh  state  it  produces  heat  and  pain  in  the  stomach.  It  is 
used  in  diet  drinks  and  apozems. 

Decoction. — The  strength  of  leaves,  seeds  or  other  matter,  extracted 
by  boiling. 

Dilute. — To  dissolve,  such  as  the  yolks  of  eggs  diluted  in  milk. 
When  they  are  mixed  they  should  always  be  strained.  Eggs 
and  milk  are  put  in  purees  for  the  purpose  of  thickening  them. 

Drills. — A  light  furrow  or  channel  made  in  the  ground  to  put  seed 
into  in  sowing. 

Esculent. — Any  plant  that  is  fit  for  food,  though  sometimes  used  as 
a  general  name  for  edible  roots. 

Espagnole  Sauce. — This  is  the  stock  sauce  of  almost  all  of  the  brown 
sauces.  It  is  made  of  good  stock  broth,  thickened  with  cooked 
flour,  and  then  flavored.  It  is  fully  described  in  the  "Book  on 
Sauces."  When  this  sauce  cannot  be  made  conveniently,  an 
ordinary  brown  sauce  can  be  substituted,  which  is  made  as  fol- 
lows: Make  an  ordinary  stock  broth;  then  thicken,  and  flavor 
it  lightly  with  ham,  vegetables  and  Madeira  wine.  When  done 
it  must  be  free  from  grease. 

Expression. — The  act  of  pressing  or  squeezing  out. 

Faggot. — A  term  applied  to  a  bunch  of  vegetables  and  herbs  that 
are  tied  together  with  a  string,  so  it  can  be  removed  conven- 
iently when  the  article  is  cooked.  It  is  used  in  soups,  sauces, 
and  stews.  See  No.  1039. 

Farina. — Fine  dust  or  powder  contained  in  the  anthers  of  plants. 
Farinaceous. — Consisting  or  made  of  meal  or  flour. 
Fecula. — The  nutritious  part  of  wheat,  starch  or  farina. 

Fermentation. — That  change  of  organic  substances  by  which  their 
starch  or  sugar,  under  the  influence  of  water,  air  and  warmth 
are  decomposed  and  their  elements  are  re-combined  in  new 
compounds. 


XX11  GLOSSARY. 

Flat  Saucepan. — A  flat  saucepan  has  a  two-inch  border,  but  they 
come  in  various  sizes.  They  are  used  to  reduce  sauces.  Small 
ones  that  have  the  bottom  slightly  curved  are  used  for  tossing. 

Fungi. — A  natural  order  of  plants,  such  as  mushrooms.  Also  ap- 
plied to  excrescences  on  plants. 

Fusiform. — Shaped  like  a  spindle. 

Garniture. — A  decoration  placed  around  or  on  joints,  entrees,  etc. 
They  are  used  hot  or  cold.  Vegetables  are  sometimes  com- 
pounded in  purees,  which  are  also  used  as  a  garniture. 

Gentian  Root.  — The  root  of  the  Gentian  plant  having  a  yellowish- 
brown  color,  and  a  very  bitter  taste.  It  is  used  in  diet  drinks 
and  apozems. 

Germ. — The  ovary  or  seed-bud  of  a  plant. 

Glaze. — To  glaze  is  to  baste  with  a  gravy  while  cooking;  to  nourish 
the  article  being  cooked.  It  also  gives  it  a  nice  color.  The 
term  glaze  is  also  applied  to  a  broth  that  is  reduced  as  low  as 
possible  without  being  scorched.  Cakes  are  glazed  with  fine 
sugar,  diluted  with  wines.  Some  baked  vegetables  are  glazed 
with  the  yolks  of  eggs,  diluted  in  milk  or  water. 

Glume. — The  outer  covering  of  corn,  husks,  or  chaff. 

Gluten. — A  tough,  elastic,  gray  substance,  found  in  the  flour  of  grain. 

Not  Water" Bath. — See  Bain-marie  in  Index. 

Hybrid. — A  plant  produced  from  the  mixture  of  two  species. 

Iceland  Moss. — A  kind  of  lichen  found  in  Europe,  having  a  slightly 
bitter  taste,  and  being  tonic  and  nutritive  in  its  properties.  It 
is  used  in  diet  drinks  and  apozems. 

Immerse. — The  expression  "  immerse  in  cold  water  "  is  applied  to 
vegetables  that  have  been  parboiled.  The  green  vegetables 
are  immersed  so  they  will  retain  their  green  color,  while  others 
are  immersed  to  remove  their  acidity  and  crude  taste. 

Jardiniere. — A  well  known  term  for  a  mixture  of  vegetables  used  as 
a  garniture. 

Lichen. — One  of  the  order  of  cellular,  flowerless  plants  that  derive 
their  nourishment  from  the  air.  They  are  usually  of  a  green- 
ish or  yellowish  color,  and  are  used  in  diet  drinks  and  apo- 
zems. 

Lupalin. — The  fine  yellow  powder  of  hops. 

Macedoine. — A  mixture  of  vegetables,  and  is  also  applied  to  fruits 
and  jellies. 

Macerate. — To  steep. 


GLOSSARY.  xxiil 

Marsh- Trefoil. — A  plant  growing  in  marshy  places,  having  bitter 
leaves,  which  are  used  in  diet  drinks  and  apozems. 

Menyantlies. — Same  as  Marsh-Trefoil. 

Moisten. — To  add  a  little  liquid  to  prevent  scorching  or  burning. 

Mulligatawny. — A  combination  of  East  India  spices  that  comes  in 
the  form  of  paste,  and  is  used  in  soups  and  preparations  of  rice. 

Orange  Blossoms  or  Leaves. — The  petals  of  the  leaves  are  separated 
and  dried.  The  leaves  are  dried  in  the  shade,  and  kept  in 
boxes  in  a  dry  place.  They  are  both  used  in  diet  drinks  or 
apozems. 

Ovate. — Oval  or  egg-shaped. 

Palmate. — Referring  to  leaves,  and  meaning  those  that  spread  from 
the  apex  of  a  petiole,  so  as  to  represent  the  hand  with  out- 
stretched fingers. 

Panicle. — A  form  of  inflorescence,  in  which  the  cluster  is  much  and 
irregularly  branched. 

Parboil. — To  cook  anything  partially  by  boiling.  To  boil  moder- 
ately. It  is  done  to  remove  the  acidity  or  tartness  from  vege- 
tables or  meats. 

Pedicle. — The  stem  that  supports  one  flower  only. 

Peduncle. — The  stalk  that  supports  the  flower  or  fruit  of  a  plant. 

Perennial. — A  plant  which  lives  more  than  two  years,  whether  it 
retains  its  leaves  or  not. 

Petal. — The  leaf  of  a  flower. 

Petiole. — The  foot-stalk  of  a  leaf  that  connects  the  blade  with  the 

stem. 
Pinch. — A  pinch  of  sugar  or  salt  is  the  amount  you  can  hold  between 

three  fingers.     A  small  pinch  is  what  the  end  of  the  blade  of  a 

knife  will  hold.     A  pinch  of  spice  is  the  amount  you  can  hold 

between  the  thumb  and  first  finger;  but  care  must  always  be 

taken  with  spice. 
Pistil. — An  organ  of  female  flowers  which  adheres  to  the  fruit  and 

encloses  the  seed. 
Pomegranate. — A  tropical  tree,  the  roots  of  which  are  prepared  and 

used  in  diet  drinks  and  apozems. 
Puree. — A  pure  liquid  soup  containing  no  solid  parts.     A  puree  of 

vegetables  is  made  as  follows:     Cook  the  vegetables  desired; 

then  drain  off  all  of  the  moisture  and  rub  the  pulp  through  a 

fine  sieve.     Finish  as  directed  in  recipes.     When  used  as  a 

garniture  they  are  kept  firmer  than  when  used  for  a  sauce. 

Soup-purees  are  thickened  soups  diluted  with  broth  to  their 

proper  consistency. 


XXIV  GLOSSA&Y. 

Purge. — To  put  vegetables  in  cold  water  for  a  certain  time  to  extract 
their  tartness  or  acidity. 

Reduce. — To  diminish  the  amount  of  water,  broth,  or  moisture  of 
any  kind,  in  a  saucepan  or  other  vessel,  over  a  fire.  The 
moisture  is  reduced  by  evaporation.  When  reducing  a  sauce 
or  puree,  stir  it  continually  until  it  is  reduced,  or  it  will  lose  its 
glossy  appearance  and  flavor. 

Refresh. — Vegetables  are  said  to  be  refreshed  when  they  are  im- 
mersed in  cold  water  after  being  parboiled.  This  is  done  to 
green  vegetables  to  make  them  retain  their  color. 

Reniform. — Having  the  shape  of  a  section  of  a  kidney;  being  broader 
than  long,  and  more  or  less  rounded. 

Rugose. — Pertaining  to  leaves  that  have  the  veins  more  contracted 
than  the  disk,  so  that  the  surface  rises  into  little  inequalities. 

Saline. — Consisting  or  partaking  of  the  qualities  of  s ,-ilt. 
Scape  — The  flowering  stem  of  a  plant. 
Scion. — A  young  shoot,  twig,  or  the  sprout  of  a  tree. 
Seedling. — A  young  plant  or  root  just  sprung  from  the  seed. 

Sessile. — Applied  to  a  leaf  growing  on  a  stem  without  having  any 
foot-stalk. 

Setiform. — Having  the  shape  of  a  bristle. 

Sheath. — A  rudimentary  leaf  of  a  plant  which  wraps  itself  around 
the  stem. 

Sieve. — A  utensil  for  separating  the  fine  part  of  any  pulverized  or 
fine  substance  from  the  coarse,  consisting  of  a  vessel,  usually 
shallow,  with  the  bottom  perforated,  or  made  of  hair  or  wire 
woven  in  meshes.  Brass  sieves  should  never  be  used  for  culi- 
nary purposes.  Hair  sieves,  or  those  made  of  copper,  tinned 
inside  and  outside,  are  best.  Use  wooden  spoons,  or  sieve 
brushes  when  rubbing  anything  through  a  sieve.  Purees  of 
vegetables  should  be  rubbed  through  quickly. 

Simmer. — To  boil  gently,  or  until  the  liquid  commences  to  boil,  and 
the  scum  gathers  on  top, 

Spermatic. — Consisting  of  seed,  or  pertaining  to  the  elements  of 
production. 

Spike. — A  species  of  inflorescence  in  which  sessile  flowers  alternate 
on  a  common  stalk. 

Spiracle. — A  small  aperture  in  vegetable  bodies  through  which  air 
passes. 


GLOSSAEY.  XXV 

Spoonful. — When  the  term  "spoonful"  is  used,  it  means  the  con- 
tents of  a  kitchen  spoon,  which  holds  about  double  the  quan- 
tity of  a  tablespoon. 

Spore. — The  part  of  flowerless  plants  which  performs  the  functions 
of  seeds. 

Standard. — A  shrub  or  plant  which  stands  singly,  without  any  sup- 
port. 

Stellate.- — Arranged  in  the  form  of  a  star  around  a  common  centre. 

Stirring. — When  any  preparation  containing  solid  matter  is  put  in 
a  saucepan,  it  should  be  stirred  until  it  boils,  or  it  will  burn. 
All  farinaceous  preparations  should  be  stirred  well  while  cook- 
ing until  they  cook.  When  butter  and  flour  is  put  in  a  sauce- 
pan to  get  browned,  stir  it  constantly  until  done. 

Stool. — The  root  or  stem  of  a  tree  or  plant  cut  off  near  the  ground, 
from  which  the  shoots  spring  up. 

Straining — Is  to  pass  anything  through  a  sieve,  colander  strainer, 
or  towel,  in  order  to  have  it  clear  of  impurities. 

Sub-sessile. — Having  very  short  foot-stalks. 

Sub-soil. — The  bed  or  layer  of  earth  which  lies  beneath  the  surface 
soil.  ' 

Succulent. — Juicy,  or  full  of  juice. 

Sucker. — The  shoot  of  a  plant  from  the  roots  or  lower  part  of  the 
stem . 

Sward. — The  grassy  surface  of  land;  turf. 

Tassels. — The  flower  ribbons  or  heads  of  plants  such  as  corn. 

Tepid.—  Moderately  warm. 

Toss. — (Saute') — Means  to  cook  on  a  brisk  fire,  without  any  moisture 
other  than  butter,  oil,  or  lard. 

Trench. — A  plowed  furrow,  ditch,  or  channel. 
Triennial. — Plants  that  last  for  three  years. 
Trifoliate. — Having  three  leaves  or  leaflets. 

Tuberous. — Consisting  of  or  containing  a  fleshy,  roundish  stem  or 
root  (called  a  tuber). 

Tunicated. — Covered  with  a  tunic  or  layers. 

Valve. — A  division  of  the  fruit  of  a  plant. 

Vexillum. — The  upper  single  petal  of  a  flower,  like  that  of  a  pea. 

Violet. — The  flowers  of  this  well-known  plant  have  an  agreeable 
flavor,  and  are  used  in  diet  drinks  and  apozems. 


XXVI  GLOSSAKY. 

White  Archangel  Nettle. — The  flowers  of  this  plant  are  dried  in  the 
sun  after  being  picked  on  a  dry  day,  and  are  used  in  diet 
drinks  and  apozems. 

Wooden  Spoon. — Wooden  spoons  should  always  be  used  in  preparing 
dishes,  or  in  cooking  purees  of  vegetables  or  cranberries,  or 
when  rubbing  forced  meats  through  a  sieve.  In  reducing  sauces 
a  special  kind  of  wooden  spoon  is  used,  which  has  a  long 
handle,  terminating  like  a  paddle,  with  a  flat  surface.  An  iron 
spoon  will  scratch  the  tin  in  a  saucepan,  and  generally  imparts 
an  unpleasant  taste  to  the  food. 


PRACTICAL  AMERICAN    COOKERY. 


ARTICLE  I. 


French  ALEXANDER.  German 

Alisandre.  Smyrnenkraut* 

No.  1. — Is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  cultivated  for  its  leaf  stalks, 
which,  after  being  blanched  are  used  as  a  salad.  In  habit  and  foli- 
age it  resembles  the  Celery  somewhat.  It  has  a  pleasant  aromatic 
taste  and  odor. 

CULTURE. 

No.  2. — It  is  raised  from  seed  annually,  in  light,  deep  loam,  in 
drills  four  feet  apart,  covering  its  seeds  an  inch  deep.  When  three 
inches  high  thin  to  ten  inches  apart;  when  well  advanced  earth  up 
about  the  stems  gradually,  same  as  for  Celery,  like  which  they  are 
also  gathered  for  use  and  preserved  during  winter. 

PERFOLIATE  ALEXANDERS. 

No.  3. — A  variety,  originally  from  Italy,  of  superior  quality  It 
blanches  better  and  is  more  crisp  and  tender,  and  not  so  harshly 
flavored.  The  stems  are  about  three  feet  high. 


ARTICLE  II. 


AMBROSIA. 

Ambrosie.  Ambrosia. 

No.  4. — Is  an  herb  similar  to  Basil,  and  is  used  with  Basil  and 
Balm  for  the  preparation  of  aromatic  vinegar,  and  also  used  in  fag- 
gots of  Parsley  when  used  for  stewed  game  and  small  birds.  Cul- 
tivation same  as  Balm,  Article  XI. 


HARDER  S  AMERICAN   COOKERY. 


ARTICLE)  III. 


French  ANGELICA.  German 

Angelique.  Angelika 

No.  5. — Is  is  a  hardy  biennial  aromatic  plant,  and  is  said  to  have 
originated  in  Syria,  where  it  grows  along  the  banks  of  rivers  near 
high  mountains.  It  is  cultivated  in  the  United  States  but  is  of  in- 
ferior quality.  The  plant  is  highly  esteemed  in  its  preserved  state, 
and  much  used  by  pastry  cooks  and  confectioners.  The  best  An- 
gelica now  preserved  comes  from  Niort,  where  the  old  formula  is 
adhered  to,  as  when  made  by  the  Nuns  of  the  "  Visitation  of  St. 
Mary,"  which  gave  it  a  world-wide  reputation.  The  tender  leaf- 
stalks and  flavoring  shoots  of  the  native  grown  Angelica  are  used 
as  a  basis  for  sweet-meats,  and  the  seeds  for  flavoring  liquors. 

CULTURE. 

No.  6. — The  plants  thrive  best  in  damp  localities,  but  may  be 
grown  in  well  enriched  soil.  Sow  in  drills,  ten  inches  apart.  Allow 
the  young  plants  to  remain  until  the  following  spring,  then  set  them 
out  two  feet  asunder,  in  each  direction.  The  stalk,  which  is  a 
cylindrical,  hollow,  herbaceous  stem,  will  be  fit  for  use  by  June  of 
the  following  year.  If  the  flower  stem  is  removed,  as  it  makes  its 
appearance,  the  plants  will  put  forth  fresh  sprouts  from  the  sides 
of  the  root,  and  survive  three  years,  but  when  allowed  to  blossom 
and  perfect  their  seeds  the  plants  soon  perish. 

ANGELICA   SYRUP. 

No.  7. — Trim  one  pound  Angelica  stems,  parboil  them  for  ten 
minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water.  Peel  and  dry  them  on 
a  napkin,  cut  in  small  pieces,  put  in  a  glass  jar  with  two  quarts  of 
Spirits  of  Wine,  at  fifty  degrees;  cover,  and  let  stand  for  ten  days. 
Then  add  a  half  pint  of  syrup,  at  thirty  degrees.  Filter  the  next 
day,  put  it  in  a  bottle  and  cork  well. 

PRESERVED   OR   CANDIED   ANGELICA. 

No.  8. — Cut  the  Angelica  in  stems  twelve  inches  long,  then  throw 
them  into  boiling  water,  letting  them  boil  twenty  minutes,  then 
immerse  them  into  cold  water.  Peel  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin,  and 
when  all  are  prepared  put  them  into  an  earthen  bowl.  Make  a  syrup 
with  five  pounds  of  sugar  to  five  pounds  of  water.  Pour  it  over  the 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  *  3 

Angelica  boiling  hot,  and  cover.  Next  day  draw  off  the  syrup, 
make  it  boil  again,  skimming  it  well,  and  pour  over  the  Angelica 
again.  Repeat  this  four  times  in  all,  and  the  fifth  time  let  the 
syrup  cook  to  a  boil,  then  add  the  Angelica,  letting  it  cook  until  it 
gets  firm.  Then  take  out  one  piece  at  a  time  and  put  them  in  a 
warm  place  to  dry. 


IV. 


French  ANISE.  German 

Anis.  Anis. 

No.  9. — Is  an  annual  aromatic  plant,  and  is  cultivated  for  its 
seeds  and  leaves,  which  are  used  for  seasoning  and  flavoring.  The 
seeds  have  a  fragrant  odor,  a  pleasant  warm  taste,  and  are  used  by 
confectioners  and  bakers,  and  also  for  medicinal  purposes — in 
cases  of  dyspepsia  and  colic,  and  to  correct  griping  when  taking 
unpleasant  medicine.  The  green  leaves  are  used  like  fennel  for  sea- 
soning and  garnishing  salads. 

ANISETTE    CORDIAL. 

No.  10. — A  liquor  distilled  from  anise  seeds.  The  most  renowned 
comes  from  Amsterdam,  and  is  partaken  after  dinner  with  black 
coffee,  and  is  also  used  for  creams,  jellies  and  punches. 

PUMPERNICKEL. 

No.  11. — A  kind  of  bread  made  in  Germany  called  pumpernickel, 
in  which  anise  seeds  are  mixed,  and  much  relished  when  eaten 
with  stewed  prunes,  figs  or  pears. 

CULTURE. 

No.  12. — Sow  in  warm  mellow  or  garden  soil  early  in  spring  in 
drills  ten  inches  apart  and  one  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are 
about  an  inch  high,  thin  to  four  inches  apart  and  keep  the  ground 
between  the  rows  loose  and  free  from  weeds.  When  the  seeds  are 
ripened  the  plants  should  be  pulled  up  and  spread  in  a  sunny  place 
to  dry.  Then  thresh  the  seeds  from  the  heads,  riddle  and  winnow 
them  and  again  expose  to  the  sun  to  evaporate  any  remaining 
moisture. 


HARDER S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


AROMATIC,  MEDICINAL  AND  POT  HERBS. 

French  German 

Planie  Medicinal,  Aromatique  et  herbe.  Medizinishe  Aromatishe,  Griiuter. 

No.  13. — Care  should  be  taken  to  harvest  them  properly.  This 
should  be  done  on  a.  dry  day  just  before  they  come  into  full  bloom. 
Then  dry  them  and  pack  closely  entirely  excluded  from  the  air. 
They  are  used  for  culinary  and  medicinal  purposes.  For  further 
information  see  each  under  its  classification. 


CULTURE. 

No.  14. — Most  of  the  varieties  thrive  best  in  rich  sandy  soil, 
which  should  be  carefully  prepared  and  well  cultivated,  as  the 
young  plants  are  for  the  most  part  delicate,  and  are  easily  choked 
out  by  weeds.  Sow  as  early  as  the  ground  can  be  made  ready,  in 
drills  sixteen  inches  apart,  or  they  may  be  planted  as  a  second 
crop,  the  seeds  sown  in  beds  in  April  and  the  plants  set  out  in 
June. 

No.  15. — The  following  constitutes  some  of  the  various  varieties 
of  aromatic,  medicinal  and  pot  herbs: 

Ambrosia,  Coltsfoot  (common), 

Angelica,  Coriander, 

Anise,  Couch  grass  or  Wheat  grass, 

Balm,  Costmary  or  Alecost, 

Balm  Mint,  Cuckooflower  Cress, 

Basil  Sweet,  Cumin, 

Ben,  Dill, 

Borage,  Elecampane, 

Bugloss,  Fennel  Sweet, 

Burnet,  Fennel  Flower  (field), 

Carraway,  Garlic, 

Catnip,  Hop, 

Chamomile,  Horehound, 

Chervil,  Hyssop, 

Chives  or  Welch  Onion,  Lavender, 

Chives,  Licorice, 

Cicely  Sweet,  Lupine, 

Clary,  Mandrake  or  May  Apple, 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE. 

Marjoram  Sweet,  Saffron, 

Melilot,  Sage, 

Mint,  Samphire, 

Palmate  Leaved  Ehubarb,  Samphire  (sea), 

Parsley,  Savory, 

Penny  Royal,  Scallion, 

Peppermint,  Southerwood , 

Picridium  (garden),  Spearmint, 

Poppy  or  maw,  Tansy, 

Pur  slain,  Tarragon, 

Rosemary  or  Rosemarine,  Thyme, 

Rue,  Wormwood. 


ARTICLE  VI. 


ALLSPICE  OR  AROMATIC  NIGELLE. 

French  tcrinan 

Piment  ou  Quartre  Epices.  Piment. 

No.  16.  Is  a  hardy  annual  plant  from  the  East  Indies.  It  is 
cultivated  for  its  seeds,  which  are  produced  in  a  roundish  capsule 
and  are  somewhat  triangular,  wrinkled,  of  a  yellowish  color,  and 
have  a  pungent,  aromatic  taste.  There  are  species  cultivated,  the 
seeds  of  which  are  black.  The  seeds  have  a  warm,  aromatic  taste, 
and  are  used  in. the  kitchen  under  the  name  of  allspice  9r  the  four 
spices. 

CULTURE. 

No.  17. — Sow  in  April,  in  light,  warm  soil,  in  drills  fourteen 
inches  apart  and  half  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are  two 
inches  high  thin  them  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  keeping  the 
soil  loose  and  watering  occasionally,  if  the  weather  is  dry.  When 
the  seed  ripens  cut  off  the  plants  at  the  roots,  and  spread  them  in  an 
airy  situation  to  dry.  When  dried  thresh  out,  after  which  spread 
out  the  seeds  again  for  a  short  time  to  evaporate  any  remaining 
moisture,  when  they  will  be  ready  for  use. 


HAEDER  S  AMERICAN   COOKEEY. 


ARTICLE:  VII. 


French  ARTICHOKE.  German 

Artichaut.  Artishoke. 

No.  18. — Artichokes  were  first  discovered  in  Italy,  but  are  now 
planted  in  all  large  gardens  in  the  United  States,  and  are  used  as 
a  vegetable,  and  prepared  for  the  table  in  various  ways.  There  are 
five  kinds  of  Artichokes,  viz :  The  Yiolet,  the  White,  the  Green, 
the  Red,  and  the  Sweet.  They  are  called  the  Globe  Artichokes, 
which  differ  from  the  Jerusalem  Artichoke.  The  Sweet  Artichoke 
is  preferable  to  all  others  for  its  delicious  flavor.  It  grows  very 
small,  and  its  plants  are  very  productive  for  two  years.  It  is  rare 
yet  in  this  country.  .The  Green,  which  is  the  variety  in  general 
use,  is  large  and  juicy.  The  Bed,  which  is  more  delicate  than  the 
Green,  is  picked  when  young,  and  is  mostly  used  for  eating  in  the 
raw  state,  or  in  salad.  The  Violet  grows  as  large  as  the  Green,  but 
is  not  as  profitable  in  culture.  The  White  is  very  productive,  but 
very  troublesome  to  raise,  and  owing  to  this  is  very  rare  in  the 
market. 

Artichokes  when  eaten  raw  take  long  to  digest,  but  when  cooked 
are  very  agreeable.  They  are  cooked  in  various  ways  as  a  vegetable 
for  the  table,  and  are  used  for  garnitures  and  soups. 

CULTURE. 

No.  19. — Sow  in  April  in  rich  soil,  and  transplant  the  following 
spring  to  permanent  beds,  in  rows  or  drills,  three  feet  apart  and 
two  feet  between  the  plants.  The  first  season  will  only  give  a  par- 
tial crop,  but  as  it  is  a  perennial,  after  being  once  planted  the  beds 
will  remain  in  bearing  for  years.  They  should  be  protected  in 
winter  by  a  covering  of  leaves  or  coarse  manure. 

GREEN   LARGE   GLOBE. 

No.  20. — Is  the  best  for  general  culture  and  use.  The  edible 
portion  is  the  undeveloped  flower  heads,  which  should  be  used  be- 
fore they  begin  to  open,  and  the  stalk  should  then  be  cut  to  the 
ground,  for  if  the  flowers  expand  they  weaken  the  plant.  In  the 
large  Globe  the  buds  are  large — nearly  round;  scales  deep  green, 
shading  to  purple,  very  thick  and  fleshy,  the  bottom  of  which  is  the 
edible  part. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  7 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  ARTICHOKES  FOR  COOKING. 

No.  21. — Do  not  use  Artichokes  when  they  have  developed.  If 
once  open  they  are  not  good  for  cooking.  Cut  off  the  stem,  trim 
off  the  hard  leaves  around  the  bottom,  and  cut  off  the  upper  quarter 
of  the  Artichoke  leaves.  Then  scoop  out  the  fibrous  part  in  the 
middle  and  put  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  acidulated.  When  thus 
prepared  put  them  in  boiling  water,  add  a  little  salt  and  lemon 
juice,  and  cook  until  tender.  When  done  drain  them  OD  a  napkin. 

ARTICHOKES   WITH   HOLLANDAISE    SAUCE. 

No.  22. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  21.  Then  put 
them  in  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons, 
cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes  on  a 
brisk  fire.  When  ready  to  serve  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  upside 
down,  so  as  to  absorb  all  the  moisture  from  them,  then  dish  them 
up  on  a  napkin,  and  serve  the  Hollaudaiss  Sauce  separately. 

ARTICHOKES   WITH   BUTTER   SAUCE. 

No.  23. — Prepare  the  Artichokes  same  as  for  Hollandaise,  and 
serve  the  butter  sauce  separately  in  a  sauce  bowl. 

ARTICHOKES  WITH  MAYONNAISE  OR  VINAIGRETTE. 

No.  24. — -Prepare  same  as  for  Hollandaise,  serve  Mayonnaise  or 
Vinaigrette  sauce  separately. 

ARTICHOKES,    WITH   OIL   OR  POIVRADE   SAUCE. 
FOB  RELISH   OB  SIDE  DISH. 

No.  25. — The  small  tender  ones  are  served  raw,  after  being 
cleaned  of  the  fibrous  parts  and  dished  up  on  a  napkin.  The  large 
ones  are  cut  into  quarters,  trimmed  of  the  hard  leaves.  Removing 
all  the  fibrous  parts,  keep  them  in  cold  water,  in  which  add  a  little 
vinegar.  Serve  them  in  a  relish  dish,  adding  the  juice  of  lemons 
which  will  keep  the  artichokes  from  turning  black.  Serve  the  sauce 
separately  in  a  sauce  bowl. 

ARTICHOKES,    WITH   OIL   AND   VINEGAR   SAUCE. 

No.  26. — Take  the  yolks  of  two  hard  boiled  eggs,  mash  them 
into  a  fine  paste,  put  them  into  a  bowl  with  two  fine  chopped 


8  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

shallots,  add  in  slowly,  while  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon,  three 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  mixing  it  well  together  and  serve  with 
artichokes,  raw  or  plain  boiled. 

ARTICHOKES— -BARIGOULE. 

No.  27. — Trim  one  dozen  middle  sized  artichokes,  cut  the  top 
leaves  off  in  the  middle,  trim  the  bottom  round  and  with  a  tea- 
spoon scoop  out  all  the  fibrous  part.  Put  them  in  cold  water  with 
a  little  vinegar,  and  when  all  cleaned  parboil  them  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  immerse  them  in  cold  Avater.  Drain  them  on  a  napkin  to  absorb 
all  the  moisture  from  them.  Chop  eight  shallots  very  fine  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  scraped  fresh  fat  pork.  Fry 
lightly,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  chopped  mushrooms, 
one  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  a  little  chopped  parsley; 
season  well.  Fill  the  centre  of  the  artichokes  with  this  preparation, 
cover  each  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  place  them  in  a  deep  flat 
saucepan  lined  with  a  layer  of  thin  sliced  fat  pork.  Moisten  witli 
a  clear  madeira  wine  sauce  (or  mirpoix),  put  on  the  lid  and  simmer 
gently  in  the  oven  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  When  done  and 
ready  to  serve  remove  the  fat  pork,  strain  the  gravy,  take  off  the 
grease  and  then  add  the  gravy  to  a  brown  Italian  sauce  and  reduce 
it  to  its  consistency.  Put  a  teaspoonful  of  sauce  in  each  artichoke 
and  serve  the  rest  separately  in  a  sauce  bowl. 

ARTICHOKE  BARIGOULE — ANOTHER  WAY. 

No.  28. — Prepare  the  artichokes  same  as  in  No.  27.  Chop  eight 
shallots  very  fine  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter. 
Fry  them  lightly,  then  add  a  little  garlic,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fine  chopped  mushrooms,  one  handfull  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  a 
little  chopped  parsley.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg.  Mix  all  well  together,  then  fill  the  centre  of  the  artichokes 
with,  this  preparation.  Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  each  of 
them,  arrange  them  in  a  deep  buttered  flat  saucepan,  put  a  piece 
of  butter  on  each  artichoke  and  bake  in  the  oven  until  nicely 
browned.  Serve  with  a  white  Italian  sauce  reduce*d  with  a  glass  of 
white  wine. 

ARTICHOKES,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  29. — Prepare  the  artichokes  as  in  No.  31.  Then  put  them 
in  a  flat  saucepan.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar.  Moisten  with  a  glass  of  white  wine  and  some  white  broth. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  9 

Then  let  them  cook  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  done  the  broth  must 
be  reduced  to  a  half  glaze.  Then  add  fottr  spoonfuls  of  white 
Italian  sauce,  and  serve. 

FEIED   ARTICHOKES,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  30. — Prepare  the  Artichokes  as  in  No.^1.  When  dried,  put 
them  in  an  earthen  bowl  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  the  juice 
of  two  lemons  and  a  small  wine  glassfull  of  olive  oil.  Let  them 
macerate  for  half  an  hour,  then  drain  them-^pn-a  strainer,  flour  them, 

^*     '•* 

dip  each  piece  in  beaten  eggs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Dish  them 
on  a  napkin,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley.  Serve  with  Brown 
Italian  sauce. 

AKTICHOKES,  LYONNAISE. 

No.  31. — Cut  one  dozen  Artichokes  in  four  parts,  trim  off  the 
hard  leaves,  cut  the  others  close  around  the  bottom,  take  off  the 
fibrous  part,  and  put  them  in  cold  water  with  a  little  vinegar,  so  as 
to  retain  their  color.  When  all  prepared,  parboil  for  five  minutes, 
then  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  dry  on  a  napkin. 
Then  put  the  Artichokes  in  a  flat  saucepan,  well  buttered,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  put  on  a  brisk  fire,  turn- 
ing them  over  occasionally,  and  moisten  with  a  half  bottle  of  white 
wine  and  the  same  quantity  of  good  white  broth.  Cover  the  sauce- 
pan. When  cooked,  the  broth  must  be  three-quarters  reduced. 
Dish  the  Artichokes  on  a  dish,  with  their  bottoms  upwards,  strain 
the  gravy,  take  off  the  grease,  add  four  spoonsful  of  Allemande 
sauce,  reduced  to  its  consistency,  a  piece  of  butter,  a  little  glaze  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  Artichokes. 

STUFFED   AKTICHOKES,    BOEDELAISE. 

No.  32. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  27.  Chop  one 
large  white  onion  fine,  put  in  saucepan  and  fry  it  lightly  in  sweet  oil. 
Then  add  the  bottoms  of  five  cooked  Artichokes  cut  in  small  square 
pieces,  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  ham,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  mushrooms.  When  the  moisture  is  reduced,  drain  off  the 
sweet  oil  and  add  one  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs,  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  all  well 
together,  adding  three  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce. 
Fill  the  centre  of  the  Artichokes  with  this  preparation,  and  cover 
each  with  a  fine  slice  of  fat  pork.  Line  a  deep,  flat  saucepan 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  two  sliced  onions,  one  carrot,  and  a 
faggot  of  parsley  garnished.  Put  the  Artichokes  in,  moisten  with  a 


10  HAKDEB'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

glass  of  white  wine  and  good  stock  broth,  make  it  boil,  put  on  the 
lid  and  set  it  in  the  oven.  When  cooked  take  them  out,  place  them 
on  a  dish,  strain  the  gravy,  take  off  the  grease,  reduce  it  to  a  half 
glaze,  add  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley  and 
a  piece  of  butter.  Put  a  teaspoonful  of  the  sauce  over  each  Arti- 
choke, and  serve  the  rest  in  a  sauce  bowl,  separately. 

STUFFED   ARTICHOKES,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  33. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  27.  Chop  one 
large  onion  in  fine  pieces,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter.  Fry  them  lightly,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine 
chopped  braized  veal,  same  quantity  of  cooked  Artichoke  bottoms 
cut  in  small  square  pieces,  a  haiidfull  of  fresh  bread  crumbs,  a 
little  fine  chopped  parsley  and  chives.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  two  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Allemande  sauce.  Mix  all  well 
together  and  stuff  the  Artichokes  with  this  preparation.  Sprinkle 
fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them.  Arrange  them  on  a  buttered  pan, 
place  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  each,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 
Serve  with,  or  separately,  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce,  in  which 
add  some  fine  herbs. 

ARTICHOKES,    TOSSED    (SAUTE)    IN   BUTTER. 

No.  34. — Out  one  dozen  Artichokes  in  quarters,  trim  off  the  hard 
leaves,  take  off  all  the  fibrous  parts,  leaving  three  leaves  on  each 
piece,  nicely  trimmed.  Arrange  them  in  a  deep  flat  saucepan,  with 
six  ounces  of  butter,  cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  simmer  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  When  tender  dish  them  up  in  the  form  of  a 
circle,  then  add  one  large  spoonful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs  to  the 
butter.  Fry  it  lightly,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  the  juice  of  one 
lemon,  and  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley.  Pour  the  sauce  in  the 
middle  and  serve  hot. 

HOW  TO   PREPARE   ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS. 

No.  35. — Use  medium  or  large  sized  Artichokes.  They  are  used 
for  garnitures  of  meats  and  soups,  and  as  a  vegetable  are  prefer- 
able to  the  others — as  all  is  edible.  In  the  others  the  leaves  have  to 
be  picked,  and  are  very  annoying  to  persons  not  accustomed  to  eat- 
ing Artichokes.  Take  one  dozen  even  sized  Artichokes,  cut  off  the 
stem  and  three-quarters  of  the  top,  scoop  out  the  fibrous  part  with  a 
small  sharp  knife,  round  the  Artichoke  even  to  the  fleshy  part,  and 
put  them  in  a  pan  with  cold  water  acidulated.  Put  in  a  saucepan  a 
quarter  pound  of  butter,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  mix  it 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  11 

well.  Then  add  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  stirring  it  well  until  it 
boils,  not  allowing  it  to  get  lumpy.  Add  the  juice  of  four  lemons, 
a  little  salt,  then  the  Artichokes,  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until 
tender.  When  cooked  and  not  ready  for  use,  put  them  in  an 
earthen  bowl  with  the  liquid,  and  cover  with  a  paper  cover.  When 
ready  for  use  take  them  out  one  by  one  and  dip  them  in  lukewarm 
water  and  prepare  them  as  needed. 

STUFFED   ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS. 

CLABA   LOUISE   KELLOGG   STYLE. 

No.  36. — Prepare  the  Artichoke  bottoms  as  in  No.  35.  Cut  one 
large  white  onion  in  small  square  pieces,  put  them  in  lukewarm 
water  for  two  minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  after 
which  put  them  in  a  napkin  and  dry  them  well.  Then  put  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry.  When  nicely  browned, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  chopped  parsley  or  chives'. 
Put  this  preparation  on  a  plate  to  get  cold,  then  fill  the  bottom  of  the 
Artichokes,  sprinkle  some  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  over  them;  arrange  them  on  a  buttered  pan  with  a  few  drops  of 
olive  oil  over  each,  and  put  in  the  oven  until  lightly  browned. 
Serve  with  a  Soubise  sauce. 

STUFFED  ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,    PIONEER   STYLE. 

No.  37. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Chop  one 
large  onion  fine  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan.  Fry  it  nice  and  brown,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  chop- 
ped roast  veal,  two  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Allemande  sauce,  and  two 
spoonfuls  of  fresh  bread  crumbs,  mix  all  well  together.  Take  it  oft 
the  fire,  add  the  yolk  of  two  raw  eggs,  stuff  the  Artichoke  bottoms, 
then  shake  some  light  colored  raspings  of  bread  over  them.  Arrange 
on  a  buttered  pan  with  a  piece  of  butter  on  each  bottom,  and  bake 
in  oven.  Serve  with  a  thickened  veal  gravy. 

STUFFED   ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  38. — Prepare  one  dozen  large  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Fill 
them  with  stuffing  of  forced  meat  of  chicken  or  veal,  in  which  add 
S9me  cooked  fine  herbs.  Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  each, 
and  a  few  drops  of  sweet  oil.  Arrange  them  in  a  pan,  on  which  put 
some  light  Espagnole  sauce  (or  gravy),  bake  them  slowly  to  a  nice 
brown  color,  and  dish  them  up,  adding  to  the  sauce  a  piece  of  butter, 
the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  little  chopped  parsley,  Put  a  tea- 
spoonful  over  each  Artichoke  bottom,  and  serve  the  rest  separately. 


12  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  FRICASSEE. 

No.  39. — Prepare  the  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Then  cut  them 
in  quarters  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss 
them  in  the  pan  over  the  fire,  then  add  some  Allemande  sauce,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley. 

FRIED   ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,    VILLEROI   STYLE. 

No.  40. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  When  well 
dried  dip  them  in  some  cool  Villeroi  sauce,  the  a  place  them  on  a  plate 
and  put  them  in  a  cool  place,  so  the  sauce  may  get  cold  and  adhere 
to  the  bottom.  Then  roll  them  lightly  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  dip  in 
beaten  eggs  and  bread  them  again,  being  careful  in  the  handling  of 
them.  Fry  in  clarified  butter  or  lard  to  a  nice  brown  color,  and 
dish  up  in  a  napkin  with  fried  parsley  to  garnish. 

ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  41. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  When  all 
are  trimmed  put  them  in  a  deep  flat  saucepan,  lined  with  thin  slices 
of  fat  pork.  Moisten  by  covering  with  veal  broth  and  a  wineglassful 
of  white  wine  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  cook  slowly.  When  tender 
take  out  the  Artichoke  bottoms,  dish  them  on  a  plate,  strain  the 
gravy,  reduce  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  adding  two  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole 
sauce  and  one  of  Tomato  sauce.  When  reduced  to  the  proper  con- 
sistency take  it  off  the  fire,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  a  piece 
of  butter,  and  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley,  then  pour  the  sauce 
over  the  Artichoke  bottoms. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  MACEDOINE. 

No.  42. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Put  them 
in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  warm  them  thoroughly,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Prepare  sepa- 
rately a  small  cut  Macedoine  garniture,  with  vegetables.  Cook  and 
glaze  each  kind  of  vegetable  separately,  then  mix  them  all  together, 
adding  two  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce,  Fill  each  bottom  with 
the  garniture,  with  a  few  drops  of  half  glaze  over  each. 

ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,    PROVENC.ALE. 

No.  43. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Parboil 
them  for  ten  minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  dry 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  13 

them  on  a  napkin.  Arrange  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  three  spoon- 
fuls of  Olive  oil,  half  a  dozen  cloves  of  garlic  (whole).  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  let  them  simmer  until  tender,  then  serve  them 
plain  with  two  lemons  cut  in  halves. 

ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,    WITH   FINE   HERBS. 

No.  44. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Stuff  them 
with  cooked  fine  herbs,  to  which  add  some  fresh  bread  crumbs  and 
chopped  fresh  mushrooms.  Arrange  them  in  a  deep  flat  saucepan, 
with  a  small  piece  of  butter  in  each.  Moisten  them  with  a  light 
thickened  brown  gravy,  put  in  an  oven  and  bake  slowly.  Baste 
frequently  with  the  gravy,  and  when  nicely  browned  dish  them 
up  with  the  gravy. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  STEWED  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  45. — Prepare  one  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Cut  them 
in  quarters  and  put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  reduced  Allemande 
sauce.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar.  Then  toss  them  in  the  pan  gently  over  the  fire,  and  serve  as 
required. 

NOTE.— Very  little  sauce  should  be  used  with  vegetable  garnitures.    All  stuffed  Artichoke  bottoms 
can  be  used  for  garnitures. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  FOR  LARGE  COLD  GARNITURE. 

No.  46. — Have  some  large  white  Artichoke  bottoms  cooked  as  in 
No.  35.  Dry  them  on  a  napkin  and  glaze  them  with  a  coating  of 
Aspic  jelly.  Keep  them  in  a  cool  place  until  needed.  Fill  each  with 
a  garniture  of  small  cut  vegetables  (alternating  each  vegetable  in 
color),  seasoned  and  glazed  with  Aspic  jelly.  Dish  them  up  in  a 
pyramid  with  finely  chopped  Aspic  jelly  around  the  dish. 

ARTICHOKE  PUREE,  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  47. — Prepare  two  dozen  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  When 
cooked  drain  them  and  put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss 
them  in  the  pan  over  the  fire  lightly,  then  add  one  pint  of  Cream 
sauce,  or  Allemande  sauce.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Eub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  put  the 
puree  in  a  flat  saucepan,  with  one  wineglassful  of  double  cream, 
and  reduce  the  puree  to  its  proper  consistency.  Put  it  in  a  Bain- 
marie  saucepan,  with  a  little  butter  on  top  to  save  it  from  getting  a 
crust.  Keep  warm  in  a  hot  water  bath  until  ready  for  use,  and 


14  HARDEB'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

when  ready  to  serve  add  a  piece  of  butter,  and  stir  well  until  the 
butter  is  melted. 

ARTICHOKE   CROQUETTES. 

No.  48. — When  the  Artichoke  bottoms  are  cooked,  as  in  No.  35, 
drain  them  dry  and  cut  two  dozen  in  small  square  pieces.  Put  in 
a  flat  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter  with  four  finely  chopped  shallots. 
Fry  them  lightly,  then  add  one  pint  of  cream,  or  Allemande  sauce. 
Reduce  it  and  add  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley.  Add  the  Arti- 
chokes and  let  boil  up  once  or  twice.  Then  mix  them  gently  and 
put  in  a  place  to  cool.  Then  form  in  any  croquette  shape  desired. 
Bread  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  dip  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread 
again.  Fry  in  hot  lard  and  dish  up  on  a  napkin,  with  fried  parsley 
to  garnish. 

ARTICHOKE  PUREE   SOUP. 

No.  49. — Peel  three  dozen  large  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Then 
cut  them  in  quarters  and  put  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of 
butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Set 
them  on  a  slow  fire  so  that  they  attain  a  light  color,  then  add  some 
white  stock  broth  to  cover  them,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley'  garnished 
with  celery,  and  two  onions.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  cook  them 
until  tender.  Then  add  one  gallon  of  thickened  chicken  or  veal 
broth,  and  let  boil  slowly  for  a  half  hour.  Take  out  the  faggot  of 
parsley  and  the  two  onions,  skim  it  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Then  put  back  in  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  Before  serving  add  a 
piece  of  butter,  stirring  it  well  until  melted  and  serve  with  it, 
separately,  small  fried  bread  crumbs. 

ARTICHOKE    CREAM   SOUP. 

No.  50. — Peel  three  dozen  large  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  Then 
cut  them  in  quarters  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter.  Toss  them  in  the  pan  over  the  fire  lightly  (not 
allowing  them  to  get  brown).  Then  cover  them  with  white  chicken 
or  veal  broth.  Add  a  faggot  of  parsley  well  garnished  and  season 
with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  sugar,  and  let  them  cook  slowly 
until  tender.  Take  out  the  faggot  of  parsley.  Add  two  quarts 
of  cream  sauce  and  pound  them  through  a  fine  colander  and  add 
enough  broth  so  as  not  to  have  it  too  thick,  and  then  strain  the 
whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  back  in  the  saucepan  and  season 
to  taste,  keeping  it  warm  without  allowing  it  to  boil.  Before  serv- 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  15 

ing  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  stirring  it  well  until  the  butter  is 
melted. 

Pour  in  the  soup-tureen  the  following  preparation:  The  yolks  of 
four  raw  eggs  with  a  half  pint  of  cream  well  mixed,  and  strain 
through  a  fine  strainer.  Then  add  this  in  the  soup  slowly,  stirring 
it  well.  It  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

PICKLED  AETICHOKES. 

No.  51. — Take  some  fresh  picked  Artichokes,  cut  off  the  stems, 
trim  off  the  hard  leaves,  cut  off  the  upper  part  in  the  middle,  and 
trim  the  other  leaves  close  to  the  bottom.  Scoop  out  all  the 
fibrous  part  carefully  and  put  the  Artichokes  in  a  pan  with  cold 
water,  in  which  add  a  little  vinegar.  When  they  are  all  cleaned 
parboil  for  five  minutes  and  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water. 
Trim  all  alike,  and  rub  them  with  a  lemon  and  arrange  in  an 
earthen  jar  or  barrel,  the  size  intended  to  be  filled.  When  filled, 
pour  over  so  as  to  cover  them,  a  brine  of  water  and  salt,  from  six- 
teen to  eighteen  degrees  (sugar  weight.)  Twenty-four  hours  after- 
wards drain  off  the  water;  boil  it  again,  skim  and  add  salt  again  to 
bring  the4  brine  to  its  former  strength.  Then  cover  the  barrel  or 
jar  hermetically.  When  ready  to  use  for  cooking,  let  them  soak  in 
luke-warm  water  from  ten  to  fifteen  hours. 

HOW   TO   COOK   PICKLED   ARTICHOKES. 

No.  52. — Put  in  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  two  spoons- 
ful of  flour.  Mix  well  together,  adding  while  stirring,  one  quart 
of  boiling  water,  letting  it  boil  slowly.  Then  add  the  juice  of  two 
lemons  and  the  Artichokes  (having  been  prepared  as  above). 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  boil  slowly  and  prepare  them  as  needed. 

/ 

AETICHOKES   PEESERVED   WHOLE. 

No.  53. — Take  freshly  picked  Artichokes,  and  see  that  they  are 
fleshy  and  sound.  Cut  off  the  stem  and  trim  off  the  hard  leaves 
around  the  bottom.  Cut  off  the  top  part  in  the  middle  and  scoop 
out  the  fibrous  part  carefully.  Parboil  them  for  five  minutes  in 
water  acidulated  with  a  little  vinegar,  then  immerse  them  in  cold 
water,  after  which  rub  the  bottom  of  each  with  a  lemon.  Then 
place  them  in  tin  boxes,  about  five  in  a  box.  Cover  them  with  cold 
boiled  water  lightly  salted.  Add  the  juice  of  two  lemons  in  each 
box.  Then  solder  on  the  cover  and  boil  the  boxes  in  a  hot  water 
bath  for  two  hours. 


16  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

ARTICHOKES  PRESERVED  IN  QUARTERS. 

No.  54 — Use  middle  sized  Artichokes.  Cut  off  the  stem  and 
trim  off  all  the  hard  leaves.  Cut  them  in  quarters,  remove  all  the 
fibrous  part,  round  off  the  bottoms,  trim  off  the  edges  of  the  remain- 
ing leaves,  and  parboil  them  for  five  minutes.  Then  immerse  in 
cold  water.  Rub  each  piece  with  a  lemon,  and  cook  them  in  a  prep- 
aration, same  as  Artichoke  Bottoms,  No.  55,  and  proceed  in  the 
same  way.  Add  the  juice  of  two  lemons  in  each  quart  can,  and  sol- 
der on  the  cover.  Then  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  one  hour. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  PRESERVED  IN  CANS. 

No.  55. — Prepare  and  clean  the  Artichokes  as  in  No.  35.  When 
all  are  cut  and  free  from  all  fibrous  parts,  rub  them  well  with  a 
lemon.  Parboil  them  ^for five  minutes,  then  immerse  in  cold  water. 
Have  ready  on  the  fire  a  saucepan,  in  which  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  melted  butter,  and  the  same  quantity  of  flour.  Mix  them 
well  together,  adding  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  stirring  all  well 
until  it  boils.  Then  add  the  juice  of  three  lemons  and  let  boil 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  adding  the  Artichokes.  Then  cover  the 
saucepan  and  cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  take  it  off  of 
the  fire  and  let  it  get  cold.  Take  out  one  Artichoke  after  another, 
and  dip  in  lukewarm  water.  Dry  them  on  a  napkin  and  place  in 
quart  tin  cans,  each  to  be  done  the  same  way,  and  then  covered 
with  cold  boiled  water  slightly  salted.  Add  the  juice  of  two  lem- 
ons to  each  can.  Solder  the  cover,  and  boil  in  hot  water  bath 
for  one  hour  and  a  half. 


No.  56. — Prepare  the  Artichoke  bottoms  as  in  No.  35.  Use 
lemon  juice  in  place  of  vinegar  to  keep  them  white.  When  they  are 
cooked  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  put 
the  puree  in  pint  tin  boxes,  solder  on  the  cover,  and  boil  in  hot 
water  bath  for  one  and  one-half  hours.  When  ready  to  use  the  pre- 
served puree  open  the  can,  and  put  the  puree  in  a  saucepan  with 
half  its  quantity  of  Cream,  or  Allemande  sauce.  When  thor- 
oughly warmed,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter,  mixing  it  well  until  the 
butter  is  melted. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  17 


VIII 


French  JERUSALEM    ARTICHOKE.  German 

Topinambour.  Erdartishoke. 

No.  57. — It  is  entirely  different  from  the  Globe  Artichoke;  its 
roots  are  all  tubers,  which  are  served  as  a  vegetable;  they  resem- 
ble potatoes  but  have  an  Artichoke  flavor. 

CULTURE. 

No.  58. — They  are  grown  exclusively  for  their  tubers,  and  are 
cultivated  similar  to  potatoes,  only  that  the  rows  in  which  they  are 
planted  should  be  at  least  four  feet  apart  when  they  are  grown  in 
rich  soil. 

JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES,  WITH  BUTTER  SAUCE. 

No.  59. — Wash  them  thoroughly  in  cold  water,  trim  them  in  the 
shape  of  a  large  olive,  boil  them  in  water,  lightly  salted,  adding  a 
piece  of  butter;  when  cooked  drain  them,  dish  up  and  pour  butter 
sauce  over  them. 


JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES,  ITALIAN  STYLE. 

No.  60. — Wash  and  peel  the  Artichokes,  then  slice  them  and  put 
in  a  flat  saucepan  with  some  clarified  butter.  Fry  them  lightly,  then 
moisten  with  white  broth,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg. 
Then  let  them  simmer  slowly  until  cooked,  when  the  broth  must  be 
reduced  to  a  glaze.  Add  the  juice  of  lemon  and  serve  with  Italian 
sauce  over  them. 

JERUSALEM   ARTICHOKES,    CRACOVIENNE. 

No.  61. — Peel  and  boil  sOme  large  sized  Artichokes.  When 
cooked  slice  them,  not  too  thin.  Put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with 
clarified  butter  and  fry  lightly.  Dish  them  up  with  fresh  bread 
crumbs  and  fine  chopped  onions,  fried  in  clarified  butter  and 
poured  over  them. 

JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES,  PUREE  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  62. — Peel  and  wash  two  dozen   Artichokes,    slice   and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.     Toss  them  over  the  fire 
2 


18  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

a  few  minutes,  then  moisten  them  with  just  enough  broth  to  cover 
them.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Cook  them 
until  the  broth  is  reduced.  Then  add  a  half  pint  of  cream  sauce 
and  rub  through  a  tine  sieve.  Put  them  back  in  a  flat  saucepan, 
and  reduce  with  a  little  cream  to  its  consistency.  Before  serving 
add  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze. 

JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES,  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  63. — Peel  the  Artichokes,  cut  them  in  any  kind  of  shape  you 
wish,  but  have  them  all  alike.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan,  with  white 
broth  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Cook  them  so  as  to  reduce  the  broth  to 
glaze  the  Artichokes.  Serve  them  with  a  half  glaze,  cream,  or 
Allemande  sauce,  as  may  be  required. 

SOUP  PUREE,  JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE,  PALESTINE. 

No.  64. — Put  in  a  sancepan,  two  fine  chopped  onions  with  four 
ounces  of  butter.  Fry  them  lightly,  then  add  ten  pounds  of  Arti- 
chokes cut  in  slices.  Put  on  the  cover  and  let  them  simmer 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  then  add  one  gallon  of  thickened  chicken 
or  veal  broth,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg  and  pinch  of  sugar.  Let  them  cook  slowly  until 
they  are  tender.  Take  out  the  faggot  and  rub  them  through  a  fine 
sieve,  then  put  back  in  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  When  ready  to 
serve  add  a  pint  of  cream,  in  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  five  raw  eggs, 
and  a  piece  of  butter,  stirring  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted. 


IX. 


French  ASPARAGUS.  German 

Asperge.  Spar  gel. 

No.  65. — The  Asparagus  is  one  of  the  best  table  vegetables, 
having  a  delicious  flavor,  and  being  easily  prepared.  It  can  be 
had  nearly  all  the  year  round,  but  is  best  when  in  season.  To  have 
them  at  perfection  they  need  great  care  in  their  cultivation.  The 
best  flavored  and  most  tender  are  those  raised  under  cover  and  kept 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun.  There  are  four  varieties:  the  green, 
violet,  white  and  wild  Asparagus.  The  white  is  savory  and  agree- 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OP  TASTE.  19 

able  for  eating  whole,  but  contains  little  substance.  The  violet 
grows  large  and  is  very  substantial  and  preferred  by  all  gourmets. 
The  green  is  smaller  and  more  common  and  is  generally  used  for 
soups  and  purees.  The  wild  is  used  for  medical  purposes.  The 
water  in  which  Asparagus  has  been  boiled,  when  cold,  is  a  refresh- 
ing drink,  and  can  be  used  to  advantage  by  persons  troubled  with 
kidney  complaint. 

CULTUEE 

No.  66. — Sow  early  in  spring,  as  soon  as  the  ground  will  admit 
of  working,  in  rows  a  foot  apart.  Keep  carefully  hoed  and  clear 
from  weeds,  and  the  plant  will  be  in  condition  to  set  out  in  the  suc- 
ceeding spring.  The  soil  for  the  permanent  beds  should  be  thor- 
oughly manured  and  trenched  or  plowed  to  a  depth  of  at  least  one 
foot.  Plant  in  rows,  spread  the  roots  well  out  and  let  the  crown  of 
the  plant  be  set  deep  enough  so  that  it  will  be  covered  from  five  to 
eight  inches.  In  heavy  soil  the  covering  must  be  less  than  in 
light  soil.  After  sowing  the  seeds,  tread  them  firmly  in  with  the  feet. 

COLOSSAL. 

No.  67. — The  best  variety,  unrivaled  in  size,  deep  green  in  color, 
tender  and  good  in  quality. 

GIANT. 

No.  68. — A  popular  variety,  producing  green  and  purple  shoots, 
according  to  the  soil.  It  grows  very  hardy  but  not  as  large  as v  the 
Colossal. 

CROSSBRED. 

No.  69. — It  retains  the  head  closed  until  the  stalks  are  quite 
long  and  is  of  a  uniform  color,  while  for  tenderness  and  quality  it 
is  unsurpassed.  The  size  is  medium  large,  and  uniform, 

SMALL  DEFIANCE. 

No.  70. — Is  of  a  rich  green  color,  very  early,  good  sized,  tender, 
and  good  quality. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  ASPARAGUS  FOR  COOKING. 

No.  71.— Wash  the  Asparagus  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  then  take 
a  knife  and  scrape  the  bottom  parts  of  the  stems.  Put  them  in 
bundles  of  about  ten  to  fifteen  Asparagus  in  each  and  see  that  the 


20  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

heads  are  even.  Tie  them  with  a  string  and  cut  them  at  the  bottom 
so  as  to  have  them  all  the  same  length.  Boil  them  in  boiling  water 
with  a  little  salt.  Asparagus  to  be  good  should  not  be  overdone, 
and  in  serving  them  when  boiled,  dish  up  on  a  napkin  so  that  it 
will  absorb  all  the  moisture,  with  sauce  separately. 

ASPARAGUS,   WITH  BUTTER  SAUCE. 

No.  72. — Prepare  the  Asparagus  as  in  No.  71.  Tie  them  in 
small  bunches.  When  boiled  and  tender,  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
Dish  them  on  a  hot  plate,  in  a  folded  napkin,  with  butter  sauce 
separately  in  a  bowl. 

ASPARAGUS,  HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE. 

No.  73. — Prepare  Asparagus  as  in  No.  71.  Tie  them  in  small 
bunches.  When  boiled  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  dish  them  on  a 
dish  with  Hollandaise  sauce  served  over  the  tops  of  the  Asparagus, 
or  serve  the  sauce  separately  if  in  large  quantities. 

ASPARAGUS  PIEMONTAISE. 

No.  74. — Prepare  Asparagus  same  as  for  Hollandaise.  Use 
green  Asparagus.  When  cooked  and  drained,  serve  them  on  a  dish 
with  a  nut-brown  butter  sauce. 

ASPARAGUS,    POMPADOUR. 

No.  75. — Prepare  three  pounds  of  Asparagus  as  in  No.  71.  Tie 
them  in  bundles;  cut  off  all  the  hard  part  so  as  to  have  only  the 
tender  part  left.  Cook  them  in  boiling  water  seasoned  with  salt. 
When  cooked,  drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  keep  warm.  While  the 
Asparagus  is  cooking,  make  the  following  sauce :  Put  in  a  saucepan 
one-half  pound  of  best  fresh  butter,  add  a  little  salt,  pinch  of  mace 
and  red  pepper,  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs,  the  juice  of  two  lemons 
and  two  soup  spoons  full  of  cold  water.  Put  the  saucepan  in  boil- 
ing water,  stirring  it  with  a  whisk  continually.  As  soon  as  it  com- 
mences to  thicken  take  it  off  the  fire,  place  a  layer  of  Asparagus  on 
a  dish,  then  a  layer  of  the  sauce  twice  over.  This  must  be  served 
hot;  delay  will  spoil  it.  The  Asparagus  must  be  served  with  a 
spoon,  and  is  eaten  \jith  the  fork. 

ASPARAGUS,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  76. — Prepare  two  dozen  bunches  of  Asparagus  as  in  No.  71. 
When  cooked,  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  When  dry,  place  them  on 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  21 

a  dish  and  serve  separate,  one  soft-poached  egg  for  each  person, 
which  you  poach  in  the  Asparagus  water,  and  a  sauce  bowl  of  Vin- 


aigrette sauce. 


ASPAKAGUS,    WITH   OIL  AND   VINEGAR. 


No.  77. — When  Asparagus  is  prepared  as  in  No.  71,  and  cooked, 
immerse  them  in  cold  water  until  cold,  to  retain  their  green  color. 
Then  drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  serve  as  needed  with  a  sauce  as 
indicated  in  Artichokes  No.  26. 

ASPAEAGUS   TOPS — HOW  TO   PBEPABE. 

No.  78. — Asparagus  Tops  are  the  tender  part  of  the  Asparagus. 
For  small  garniture,  first  cut  off  the  heads  and  then  cut  the  other 
part  of  the  stem  the  size  of  a  large  pea.  Cook  each  separately  in 
boiling  water  seasoned  with  salt,  on  a  brisk  fire.  When  cooked, 
immerse  in  cold  water,  to  keep  them  green;  then  drain  them  on  a 
sieve,  put  them  on  a  plate,  cover  them  with  a  dampened  napkin 
and  keep  in  a  cool  place  until  needed.  For  large  garniture  cut  all 
the  pieces  one  inch  long.  To  be  served  in  faggots,  leave  them 
from  two  to  four  inches  long,  as  may  be  required. 

ASPAEAGUS  TOPS,  WITH  SAUCE. 

No.  79. — Prepare  two  pounds  of  Asparagus  tops  as  in  No.  78. 
Cut  one  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  when  ready  for  use  put  them  in 
a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  gently  in  the  pan 
over  the  fire,  and  when  warmed  season  with  pepper,  pinch  of  nut- 
meg, and  sugar.  Let  boil  up  once  or  twice,  then  add  a  mixture  of  the 
yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  diluted  with  a  little  cream  and  a  small  piece 
of  butter;  mix  it  well  together,  not  letting  it  boil,  and  then  serve. 

ASPAEAGUS  TOPS,  COLBEET. 

No.  80. — Prepare  one  pound  of  Asparagus  as  in  No.  78.  Cut 
them  one  inch  long;  keep  the  heads  separate,  and  put  each  part  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  gently  in  the 
saucepan  over  a  brisk  fire,  then  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Allemande 
sauce.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dish  up  the  stalk  part  first, 
with  the  heads  over  them,  and  with  a  garniture  of  poached  eggs 
around  the  dish,  with  a  few  drops  of  glaze  on  each  egg. 

ASPAEAGUS  TOPS,  WITH  TEUFFLES,  IMPEEIAL. 

No.  81. — Prepare  two  pounds  of  Asparagus  tops  as  in  No.  78. 
Cut  them  one  inch  long,  and  when  cooked  put  them  together  in  a 


22  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

flat  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  warm  thoroughly,  then  serve  them  on  a  dish,  leaving  some 
space  in  the  centre.  Fill  the  centre  with  a  garniture  of  truffles  cut 
in  a  Julienne,  and  finished  with  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce. 
When  dressed  sprinkle  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  over  them. 

ASPARAGUS  TOPS,  WITH  MUTTON  GRAVY. 

No.  82. — Prepare  two  pounds  of  Asparagus  tops.  Cut  them  one 
inch  long,  parboil  five  minutes,  drain  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  pinch  of 
nutmeg,  and  add  two  cupfulls  of  mutton  gravy.  Finish  cooking 
them  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  before  serving  add  some  finely  chopped 
parsley  and  chives. 

ASPARAGUS  TOPS,  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  83. — Prepare  the  Asparagus  as  in  No.  78.  For  small  garni- 
ture they  may  be  served  in  sauce,  or  tossed  in  butter  in  the  pan 
over  the  fire,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar.  For  large  garnitures  tie  them  in  faggots  and  dress  them  in 
bunches,  alternating  with  other  vegetables,  as  may  be  required. 

ASPARAGUS  PUREE,  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  84. — Use  green  Asparagus;  break  off  the  tender  parts,  wash 
them  in  cold  water,  drain  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  adding  salt,  faggot  of  parsley  garnished,  and  two  whole 
onions  When  cooked  drain  them  and  take  the  faggot  and  onions, 
put  the  Asparagus  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  pinch  of  sugar;  add  two  spoon- 
fulls  of  cream  sauce,  and  one  handful  of  bread  crumbs,  previously 
soaked  in  milk  and  pressed  dry  in  a  napkin;  Let  cook  for  ten  min- 
utes, then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve ;  put  the  puree  in  a  flat  saucepan, 
reduce  it  with  a  little  cream  to  its  proper  consistency,  if  necessary, 
add  some  color  of  spinach  to  give  it  a  bright  green  color.  Before 
serving  add  a  piece  of  butter,  stirring  it  well  until  melted. 

ASPARAGUS  TOPS,  FOR  LARGE  COLD  GARNITURE. 

No.  85. — Slice  some  Turnips  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  then 
cut  them  with  a  round  cutter  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter, 
Cut  out  the  centre  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter,  parboil  them 
two  minutes,  and  then  immerse  in  cold  water.  Dry  them  on  a  nap- 
kin, fill  each  ring  with  Asparagus  tops,  cooked,  but  not  too  much 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  23 

so.  Cut  two  inches,  or  two  and  a  half  inches  long;  arrange  in  a  tin 
pan  so  that  they  will  stand  up  straight;  set  on  ice  to  get  cold,  then 
mask  with  Aspic  jelly.  Carrot  rings  may  be  used,  alternating  with 
the  Turnips. 

ASPARAGUS  SALAD,  PLAIN. 

No.  86. — Prepare  one  pound  of  Asparagus  tops  as  in  No.  78. 
Cut  them  one  inch  in  length.  When  cooked  and  drained  put  them 
into  a  salad  bowl,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  some  chop- 
ped parsley  or  chives,  vinegar,  and  olive  oil:  Mix  it  carefully,  not 
breaking  the  tops. 

ASPARAGUS  SALAD,  WITH  SHRIMPS. 

No.  87. — Prepare  the  Asparagus  as  in  No.  78.  Add  one-half 
their  quantity  of  picked  shrimps,  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Make  separately,  in  a  bowl,  a  sauce  with  the  yolks  of  three  hard 
boiled  eggs.  Bub  them  through  a  sieve,  then  put  them  in  the  bowl 
and  add  in  slowly,  while  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon,  one  glass  of 
olive  oil  and  a  few  drops  of  vinegar.  Pour  this  over  the  salad,  ar- 
range it  properly  and  trim  with  hard  boiled  eggs  cut  into  quarters. 

ASPARAGUS  SALAD,  WITH  TRUFFLES,  ROYAL. 

No.  88. — Prepare  the  Asparagus  as  in  No.  78.  Add  one-half 
their  quantity  of  truffles,  cut  into  a  short  Julienne.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  add  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Mix  all  gently  to- 
gether, cover  them  and  set  in  a  cool  place  for  one  hour.  When 
ready  to  serve  garnish  the  salad  with  fine  chopped  eggs — the  yolks 
and  the  white  alternating — around  the  border,  and  slices  of  truffles 
which  have  been  dipped  in  a  reduced  cold  Madeira  wine  sauce. 
Make  a  crown  in  the  centre  and  fill  with  Tartare  sauce. 


SOUPS. 

PUREE  ASPARAGUS,    CONDE. 

No.  89. — Take  the  tender  part  of  ten  pounds  of  Asparagus,  wash 
them  well  and  parboil  for  five  minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold 
water  and  drain  them  on  a  sieve.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
one  gallon  of  boiling  chicken  or  veal  broth,  and  add  a  faggot  of 
parsley  garnished  with  celery.  Put  this  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  when 
cooked  drain  them  on  a  collander;  take  out  the  faggot,  thicken  the 
broth,  and  let  boil  slowly.  Then  add  the  Asparagus  which  you 


24  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

pounded  through  the  colander.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Let  cook  for  twenty -five  minutes,  then  rub  it 
through  a  fine  sieve,  putting  it  back  in  saucepan  to  keep  warm. 
Before  serving  add  half  a  pound  of  butter,  stirring  it  until  the  but- 
ter is  melted.  Serve  with  a  plate  full  of  small  fried  bread  crumbs; 

PUREE  ASPARAGUS,  ROYAL. 

No.  90. — Take  ten  pounds  of  the  tender  green  part  of  the  Aspara- 
gus, and  when  washed  parboil  them  for  four  minutes,  then  immerse 
in  cold  water  (to  retain  their  green  color).  Drain  them,  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  then  toss 
them  in  the  pan  gently  over  the  fire,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg,  and  a  little  sugar.  Add  just  enough  white  chicken  or  veal 
broth  to  cook  them  thoroughly,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley.  Let 
them  boil  until  tender,  and  then  pound  the  Asparagus  through  a 
colander,  and  then  put  into  a  saucepan  with  one  gallon  of  thick- 
ened chicken  or  cream,  in  veal  broth.  Put  it  on  the  fire,  stirring  it 
until  it  boils,  then  set  on  side  of  fire  to  boil  slowly  for  twenty-five 
minutes.  Skim,  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  then  put  back 
into  the  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  Before  serving  add  four  ounces 
of  butter  and  a  pint  of  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs, 
while  stirring  the  soup  well.  Serve  with  a  garniture  royal,  cut 
into  rings  or  in  small  dice  shape. 

PUREE  ASPARAGUS,  ST.  GEORGE. 

No.  91. — Prepare  the  puree  the  same  as  No.  90.  In  place  of  a 
garniture  royal  add  a  garniture  of  Asparagus  tops,  with  small  balls 
of  forced  meat  of  chicken,  the  size  of  a  large  pea. 

CREAM  ASPARAGUS,  COUNTESS. 

No.  92. — Cut  the  tender  parts  of  ten  pounds  of  Asparagus,  and 
parboil  them.  Immerse  them  in  cold  water,  drain  them,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  boiling  white  broth,  just  enough  to  cook  them. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished 
with  celery.  When  they  are  thoroughly  cooked  add  two  quarts 
cream  sauce,  a  little  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Pound  them 
through  a  colander,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve;  put  back  in 
saucepan  to  keep  warm  (not  letting  it  boil).  Before  serving  add 
four  ounces  butter,  a  pint  of  cream,  in  which  dilute  the  yolks  of 
six  raw  eggs,  stirring  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve  with 
a  garniture  of  Asparagus  tops,  and  add  some  green  color  of  spinach 
to  this  soup,  as  it  must  be  of  a  bright  green  color. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  25 

ASPARAGUS,  PRESEEVED  IN  SALT. 

No.  93. — Pick  out  middle  sized,  sound  and  fresh  cut  Asparagus, 
Put  into  the  bottom  of  a  square  water-tight  wooden  box,  which  you 
intend  filling,  a  layer  of  salt,  then  a  layer  of  Asparagus,  then  a 
layer  of  salt,  a  layer  of  Asparagus,  continuing  until  filled.  On  the 
top  layer  have  the  salt  one-half  an  inch  thick,  and  have  a  wooden 
cover  to  fit  closely  on  the  box,  with  a  weight  on  top  to  keep  it 
pressed  down,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  dry  place.  When  ready  to 
use  them  soak  them  for  three  hours  in  cold  water,  then  scrape  them 
the  ordinary  way,  and  put  them  to  soak  in  lukewarm  water  for  five 
hours,  changing  the'  water  occasionally,  then  cook  them  as  required. 

ASPARAGUS,  PRESERVED  IN  CANS. 

No.  94. — Square  boxes,  the  size  of  the  Asparagus,  are  much  bet- 
ter than  the  round  high  boxes  generally  used  by  factories.  When 
the  boxes  are  properly  made  they  can  be  used  several  times  for  the 
same  purpose.  Each  box  should  contain  from  twenty-five  to  thirty 
Asparagus.  After  the  Asparagus  stems  are  scraped,  wash  them  in 
cold  water,  tie  them  in  bundles,  and  cut  them  all  the  same  size. 
Parboil  them  for  five  minutes  in  water  lightly  salted,  then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water,  drain  them  and  put  on  a  linen  towel  to  dry- 
Then  arrange  them  in  boxes  so  that  the  bottom  half  will  have  their 
heads  towards  the  right,  and  the  top  half  will  have  their  heads  to- 
wards the  left.  Cover  them  with  cold  boiled  water,  lightly  salted; 
solder  on  the  cover  and  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  bath  for  one  and  one- 
half  hours. 

ASPARAGUS  TOPS,  PRESERVED. 

No.  95. — Use  fresh  green  Asparagus,  and  all  the  same  size.  Cut 
off  the  heads  and  keep  them  separate.  Then  cut  the  remaining 
tender  part  the  size  of  a  large  pea.  Parboil  the  heads  one  minute 
and  the  others  five  minutes.  Immerse  them  in  cold  water,  then 
drain  them  and  dry  on  a  napkin.  Mix  them  together  and  put  them 
into  round  quart  tin  cans.  Cover  them  with  cold  boiled  water, 
lightly  salted;  solder  on  the  cover  and  boil  them  in  a  hot  water 
bath  for  one  hour. 

ASPARAGUS  SYRUP. 

No.  96. — Cut  off  the  tender  part  of  four  bunches  of  Asparagus, 
and  wash  them  well  in  cold  water.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one 
gallon  of  water,  letting  them  cook  until  it  is  reduced  to  five  pints  of 
water.  Drain  them  and  then  strain  the  liquid  through  a  flannel  fil- 
ter, adding  four  pounds  of  cube  sugar.  Cook  to  a  syrup  of  32  de- 
grees, and  when  cold  put  in  bottles,  corked  tight. 


26  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

x. 


French  ASPARAGUS   BEAN.  German 

Haricot  Asperge.  Spargel  Bohne. 

No.  97. — The  Asparagus  Bean  is  a  distinct  variety  from  the  gar- 
den bean,  being  a  native  of  the  southern  part  of  South  America 
and  China.  The  pods  measure  over  one  foot  in  length,  and  the 
beans  are  cultivated  on  account  of  their  long  pods,  which  are  crisp 
and  tender,  having  a  rich  flavor,  and  being  much  esteemed  for 
pickling.  The  seeds  are  quite  small,  and  are  seldom  eaten  in  their 
green  or  ripe  state. 


ARTICLB  xi. 


BALM. 

Baume.  Melisse. 

No.  98. — Balm  is  a  hardy  perennial  aromatic  plant.  Originally 
from  the  southern  part  of  Europe.  The  leaves  have  a  fragrant 
odor,  similar  to  lemons,  and  are  used  for  making  Balm  Tea,  for  use 
in  fever,  and  makes  a  pleasant  beverage  of  Balm  wine  for  diseases 
of  the  lungs,  being  also  used  in  seasoning  meats  and  for  flavoring 
vinegar.  A  mixture  of  Balm  and  honey  is  sometimes  applied  to 
the  interior  of  bee  hives  just  previous  to  receiving  the  swarm  for 
the  purpose  of  their  settlement,  to  attract  them. 

CULTURE. 

No.  99. — Prepare  a  rich  sandy  soil  and  keep  it  clear  of  weeds. 
Plant  early  and  thin  to  ten  inches  apart.  The  plants  will  soon 
completely  cover  the  ground,  and  the  bed  with  good  management 
will  last  several  years.  When  drying,  the  plants  should  be  cut  as 
they  come  into  bloom,  separating  the  stems  at  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  Spread  them  in  an  airy  shady  place  and  allow  them  to  dry 
gradually.  The  leaves  may  be  used  in  their  green  state  directly 
from  the  plants,  as  they  are  required. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  27 


XII. 


French  BALM   MINT.  German 

Melisse.  Melisse. 

No.  100. — The  Balm  Mint  is  a  hardy  perennial  aromatic  plant, 
similar  to  the  Balm,  but  different  in  flavor,  being  often  taken  for 
Mint,  on  account  of  its  flavor.  It  is  used  for  seasoning  game  and 
flavoring  vinegar  and  spirituous  waters.  Culture  same  as  Balm. 


ARTICLB  xi  1 1. 


BARLEY. 

Orge.  Oerste. 

No.  101. — The  common  Barley  is  a  cereal,  the  flour  obtained 
from  its  grains  containing  very  little  gluten,  but  an  abundance  of 
fecula,  also  containing  a  mucilaginous  substance.  For  this  reason 
it  produces  a  bread  less  savory  and  less  digestible  than  other  flours. 
The  Pearl  Barley,  when  entirely  removed  of  its  pellicle,  is  reduced 
to  a  small  pearl.  It  is  much  used  for  culinary  purposes  in  replac- 
ing rice,  and  also  in  making  soups  for  invalids. 

COMMON  BARLEY. 

No.  102. — Barley  succeeds  best  in  lands  more  sandy  and  lighter 
than  those  adapted  to  wheat.  It  is  sown  in  the  spring  and  can  be 
grown  further  north  than  any  other  grain.  Unless  intended  for 
seed,  it  should  be  cut  before  being  fully  ripe,  as  it  is  then  heavier, 
of  better  quality,  and  less  liable  to  shell.  The  land  should  always 
be  rolled  immediately  after  sowing. 

BARLEY  MANSURY. 

No.  103. — This  is  a  six-rowed  Barley  with  long,  heavy  well  filled 
heads,  containing  large  plump  grains.  The  straw  is  bright,  very 
strong,  and  is  not  apt  to  lodge  even  in  the  richest  lands.  Ripens 
a  week  later  than  the  common  six-rowed  Barley,  or  about  the  same 
time  as  two-rowed  Barley. 


28  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

BARLEY  NAKED,  OR  HULLNESS. 

No.  104. — This  is  a  peculiar  grain,  and  not  generally  known. 
The  corolla  is  not  attached  to  the  grain,  and  in  this  it  resembles 
wheat.  It  is  a  splendid  grain  for  all  the  purposes  for  which  Barley 
is  used,  and  will  make  an  excellent  bread  when  bolted  and  ground 
like  wheat. 

SOUPS. 

CREAM  BARLEY,  NEILSON  STYLE. 

No.  105. — Put  in  a  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  when 
melted  add  a  handful  of  flour  and  four  handfuls  of  Pearl  Barley, 
stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  add  in 
slowly  one  gallon  of  veal  or  chicken  broth;  make  it  boil,  and  then 
set  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  slowly,  adding  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished,  with  two  leeks  and  two  green  onions.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Then  skim 
off  the  grease  and  take  out  the  faggot.  Strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  put  back  in  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  When  ready  to  serve  add 
the  following  preparation:  Take  a  pint  of  cream  and  the  yolks  of 
six  raw  eggs,  mix  them  well,  and  strain  through  a  strainer.  Add  six 
ounces  of  butter,  stirring  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve 
with  a  garniture  royal. 

CREAM   BARLEY,    MARIE   LOUISE   STYLE. 

No.  106. — Prepare  the  soup  same  as  No.  105.  When  moistened 
with  the  broth  and  it  boils  add  two  raw  chickens,  letting  them  boil 
slowly  until  they  are  cooked.  Then  take  out  the  chickens  and  the 
faggot,  skim  off  the  grease  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  set  on  the  fire  to  keep  warm.  Take  the 
breasts  of  the  chickens  and  pound  them  into  a  fine  paste  with  six 
ounces  of  butter.  Then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  in  a 
saucepan,  adding  a  pint  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  a  pinch 
of  sugar.  Then  add  the  hot  soup  slowly  while  stirring  briskly  with 
a  whisk.  Serve  with  a  garniture  of  green  peas. 

CREAM  OP  BARLEY,  FARRAGUT  STYLE. 

No.  107. — Prepare  the  soup  in  a  similar  way  to  No.  105.  When 
strained  set  it  on  the  fire  to  keep  warm,  and  when  ready  to  serve 
add  six  ounces  of  crawfish  butter,  diluted  in  their  broth,  the  yolks 
of  six  raw  eggs  and  a  glass  of  cream,  stirring  well  until  the  butter 
is  melted.  Serve  with  a  garniture  of  fried  peas. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  29 

BAELEY  BROTH  FOE  INVALIDS. 

No.  108. — Wash  two  handfuls  of  Pearl  Barley  in  cold  water. 
Put  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  three  quarts  of  plain  chicken 
broth,  and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  two  hours.  Press  the  liquid  through 
a  fine  sieve  and  season  lightly.  When  common  Barley  is  used  for 
these  recipes  put  on  the  fire  with  cold  water,  and  as  soon  as  it 
boils  strain  off  and  proceed  as  with  Pearl  Barley. 

BAELEY  WATEE  FOE  INVALIDS. 

No.  109. — Prepare  same  as  No.  108.  Use  water  instead  of  broth. 
When  cooked  press  the  liquid  through  a  fine  sieve.  Serve  plain  or 
sweeten  with  sugar. 

BARLEY  CREAM  FOR  INVALIDS. 

No.  110. — Prepare  the  Barley  as  in  No.  108.  Use  milk  in  place 
of  broth.  When  well  cooked  press  the  liquid  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  sweeten  with  a  syrup  of  marsh  mallow  or  venus  hair. 

BAELEY  WATEE  FOE  GAEGLING. 

No.  111. — When  Barley  water  is  made  for  gargling  with  briar 
leaves  and  honey,  use  the  plain  common  Barley  without  changing 
the  fresh  water  as  with  No.  108.  When  the  Barley  water  is  made 
pour  it  boiling  over  the  briar  leaves,  then  add  a  soup  spoonful  of 
honey  and  one  of  wine  vinegar. 


XIV. 


French  BASIL   SWEET.  German 

Basilic.  Basilikum. 

No.  112. — There  are  four  kinds  of  Basil.  The  large  sweet  Basil 
is  the  one  principally  used  for  culinary  purposes.  It  is  a  hardy 
annual  plant,  and  must  be  cut  before  it  gets  in  full  bloom.  The 
seeds  and  stems  are  dried  and  used  for  flavoring  soups  and  sauces, 
etc.  It  is  also  used  when  young  and  tender  to  mix  with  cooked 
vegetable  salads,  such  as  potatoes,  beets,  peas,  beans,  etc. 


30  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CULTURE. 

No.  113. — All  the  varieties  are  annual  and  grow  from  seed.  Sow 
as  early  as  the  ground  will  permit,  in  sandy  soil  carefully  prepared. 
For  winter  use  the  stalks  are  cut  while  in  flower,  then  dried,  pow- 
dered and  preserved  as  other  pot  herbs. 


xv. 


BAY  LEAVES,  OR  LAUREL  LEAVES  (Common). 

French  German 

Laurier  Franc  ou  dappolon.  Lorbeerblatt. 

No.  114. — These  leaves  are  much  used  for  culinary  purposes,  be- 
ing indispensable  for  stews,  etc..  For  these  purposes  they  should 
be  used  in  their  dry  state,  as  they  then  lose  their  bitter  taste. 
In  their  green  state  they  are  used  for  pickling,  and  in  imparting 
an  aromatic  taste  to  meats. 


XVI. 


BAY  OR  LAUREL  LEAVES  (Larustine). 
Laurier  Amande.  Lorbeerblatt. 

No.  115. — These  are  not  used  much  for  culinary  purposes,  but  in 
dairies  they  are  frequently  used  to  aromatize  the  milk.  They  should 
be  used  with  precaution.  Although  they  give  an  agreeable  taste 
to  the  milk  they  are  dangerous  to  use,  being  slightly  poisonous. 


XVII. 


BEANS. 

Haricot.  Bohne. 

No.  116. — This  is  a  vegetable  of  which  there  are  many  varieties. 
They  are  prepared  for  the  table  in  several  different  ways.  Some 
varieties,  when  young  and  tender,  are  eaten  whole,  and  are  known 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  31 

as  String  Beans.  Later  on  they  get  hulled,  when  the  seeds  are  ripe, 
and  are  called  the  Shell  Bean  (French,  Flageolet).  Next  they  are 
dried  and  then  prepared  in  various  ways.  The  White  Marrow  Fat, 
the  Golden  Wax,  and  the  Dwarf  Soisson  are  among  the  best  varie- 
ties. To  have  Beans  well  cooked  pure  water  must  be  used,  some 
varieties  having  hard  shells,  which  will  not  boil  tender.  This  can 
be  remedied  by  adding  some  carbonate  of  soda  while  they  are  being 
boiled.  For  early  cultivation  the  American  Garden  Bush  Bean  is 
the  earliest  and  hardfest.  The  Garden  Bush  or  Pole  Running  Beans 
are  tender  annual  plants,  originally  from  the  East  Indies.  The 
dwarf  varieties  require  no  poles  or  sticks  for  their  support. 

» 

CULTURE  OF  THE  DWARF  OR  BUSH  BEAN. 

No.  117. — A  succession  of  sowing  can  be  made  according  to  the 
latitude.  Plant  in  drills  about  two  inches  deep,  and  from  eighteen 
inches  to  two  feet  apart,  according  to  the  richness  of  the  soil. 

EARLY  FEEGEE. 

No.  118. — The  earliest  variety  and  very  prolific. 

EARLY  RED  VALENTINE. 

No.  119. — Tender  and  succulent,  and  of  excellent  flavor.  They 
continue  longer  in  their  green  state  than  most  varieties. 

WHITE  VALENTINE. 

No.  120. — Similar  in  growth  to  the  red  valentine.  It  is  a  very 
prolific  bearer,  and  the  fact  of  the  bean  being  white  gives  it  addi- 
tional value,  as  it  enables  it  to  be  used  as  a  shell  bean. 

GALLEGA,  OR  LARGE  REFUGEE. 

No.  121. — A  standard  sort  for  market  or  private  use.  Is  very 
prolific;  pods  and  beans  are  large. 

EARLY  MOHAWK. 

No.  122. — An  excellent  early  variety,  very  productive,  and  of  good 
quality. 


32  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

BLACK  WAX,  OR  BUTTER. 

No.  123. — The  pods  when  ripe  are  of  a  waxy  yellow  transparent 
color,  very  tender,  excellent,  and  delicious. 

WHITE  WAX. 
No.  124. — A  variety  similar  to  the  black  wax,  except  in  color. 

IVORY  POT  WAX. 

No.  125.— The  pods  are  long,  and  almost  of  a  transparent  waxy 
white  color,  and  are  entirely  stringless.  In  tenderness  it  excels 
almost  all  the  other  kinds.  The  beans  when  ripe  are  of  medium 
size,  white,  and  oval.  It  is  an  excellent  Shell  Bean  for  winter  use. 

CANADIAN  WONDER. 

No.  126. — Produce  very  large  pods  with  great  abundance;  very 
fleshy,  and  exceedingly  tender  when  cooked. 

GOLDEN  REFUGEE. 

No.  127. — Pods  perfectly  round,  and  of  a  very  light  color.  It  is 
particularly  well  suited  for  pickling. 

CRYSTAL   WHITE   WAX. 

No.  128. — Produces  pods  of  fair  size  of  exceedingly  rich  and  ten- 
der flavor.  In  color  waxy  white,  and  almost  as  transparent  as  glass. 
It  is  a  stringless  variety,  very  productive,  and  the  pods  though 
quick  to  develop  are  slow  to  harden. 

GOLDEN  WAX. 

No.  129. — Is  an  entirely  different  variety,  the  pods  are  large,  lo»g, 
and  brittle,  and  entirely  stringless.  As  a  snap  bean  it  excels  all 
others  in  ridhness  and  tenderness  of  flavor,  and  has  the  further 
merit  of  being  one  of  the  best  shell  beans  grown  for  winter  use. 

REFUGEE   OR  A  THOUSAND   TO   ONE. 

No.  130. — Very  productive,  though  not  early.  The  young  pods 
are  extremely  tender  and  of  fine  flavor. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  33 

LARGE  WHITE   KIDNEY. 

No.  131. — An  excellent  shell  bean,  green  or  ripe. 

WHITE   MARROWFAT. 

No.  132. — Extensively  grown  for  dry  state.  Of  average  quality 
as  a  string  bean,  but  excellent  when  shelled  either  green  or  dry. 

DWARF   SOISSON. 

No.  133. — Is  an  early  variety.  They  blossom  six  weeks  after 
planting.  Can  be  used  with  pods  after  seven  weeks,  and  ripen  in 
ninety  days.  The  seeds  are  white  kidney  shaped,  often  flattened, 
bent,  or  distorted.  They  are  productive,  and  the  young  pods  are 
of  fair  quality.  The  seeds  are  excellent,  whether  used  green  or 
ripe.  The  skin  is  thin.  They  are  much  esteemed  for  their  white- 
ness and  delicate  flavor. 

BEANS,    POLE  RUNNING. 

No.  134. — They  are  more  tender  and  require  rather  more  care  in 
culture  than  the  Bush  Beans.  They  succeed  best  in  sandy  loam, 
which  should  be  liberally  enriched  with  short  manure  in  the  hills, 
which  are  formed  according  to  the  variety,  from  three  to  four  feet 
apart. 

LARGE  WHITE  LIMA. 

No.  135. — They  are  considered  the  best  of  all  the  Pole  Beans,  and 
are  almost  universally  grown. 

SMALL   LIMA,    OR   SIEVA. 

No.  136. — It  is  earlier  and  more  hardy  than  the  large  White  Lima. 
DREER'S  IMPROVED  LIMA. 

No.  137. — This  is  an  extra  quality  of  bean  which  matures  early, 
and  yields  largely.  It  produces  more  shelled  beans  to  the  pole 
than  the  large  Lima. 

DUTCH   CASE   KNIFE.       . 

No.  138. — A  very  productive  variety,  and   one  of  the  earliest.. 
Sometimes  used  as  a  snap  bean,  but  generally  shelled. 
3 


34  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

t 

SPECKLED   CRANBERRY. 

No.  139. — A  popular  variety,  serviceable   in   its  green  state  or 
when  shelled. 

SCARLET   RUNNER. 

No.  140. — A  great  favorite  in  gardens,   both   as  an  ornamental 
plant  and  useful  vegetable. 

GIANT   WAX. 

No.  141. — Pods  long  and  clear,  with  a  waxy  color,   thick   and 
fleshy,  and  very  productive     When   cooked    they  are  tender  and 


delicious. 


GERMAN   WAX   POLE. 


No.  142. — One  of  the  best  varieties,  either  for  snap  or  shelled  in 
the  green  state. 

French  BEANS,    ENGLISH   OR   BROAD.  €crman 

feve.  Gartenbuhne. 

No.  143. — This  class  is  very  hardy,  and  is  said  to  be  the  most 
ancient  of  all  esculents.  It  originated  in  Egypt.  Should  be 
planted  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  in  good  condition,  in  Spring.  Plant 
four  inches  apart  and  two  inches  deep,  in  drills  four  feet  apart. 
To  insure  well  filled  pods,  pinch  off  the  tops  as  soon  as  the  lower 
pods  begin  to  set.  In  their  young  state  they  are  best  for  the  table, 
being  then  digestible.  When  old  the  skin  must  be  removed,  else 
they  are  hard  to  digest. 

EARLY  MAZAGAN. 

No.  144. — A  very  early  and  healthy  variety. 

BROAD   WINDSOR. 

No.  145. — Best  for  general  use.  Suitable  for  field  and  garden 
culture. 

SWORD   LONG   POD. 

No.  146. — An  excellent  variety,  similar  to  the  Broad  Windsor. 

HOW  TO   PREPARE   STRING   BEANS   FOR   COOKING. 

No.  147. — To  have  good  beans  they  must  be  perfectly  fresh. 
Break  off  the  ends  and  string  them  carefully,  or  pare  both  edges, 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  35 

to  be  certain  that  none  of  the  tough  fibre  remains  (this  should  be 
done  carefully  and  at  all  times).  Wash  them  in  cold  water.  When 
young  and  small  leave  them  whole.  When  large  split  the  beans 
lengthwise,  or  cut  them  in  pieces  an  inch  long. 

STRING   BEANS,    ENGLISH   STYLE. 

No.  148. — Prepare  the  Beans  as  in  No.  147,  and  when  ready  for 
cooking  throw  them  in  boiling  water,  lightly  salted.  Boil  them  on 
a  brisk  fire  until  tender  (never  cover  the  pot  while  cooking  beans, 
as  that  has  a  tendency  to  tinge  them  yellow).  Drain  them  on  a 
colander  and  serve  them  with  a  piece  of  butter  in  the  centre  and  a 
piece  on  top. 

STRING  BEANS,    MAITEE   D' HOTEL. 

No.  149. — Cook  them  as  in  No.  148.  When  done  immerse  them 
in  cold  water.  Drain  them  on  a  colander  and  place  them  on  a  nap- 
kin to  absorb  all  the  moisture.  Put  them  in  a  fiat  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Toss  them  over 
the  fire  until  thoroughly  warm,  and  then  add  a  little  fine  chopped 
parsley  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice. 

STRING  BEANS,    WITH   FINE   HERBS. 

No.  150. — Prepare  the  Beans  as  in  No,  148.  Put  in  a  flat  sauce- 
pan a  piece  of  butter,  two  fine  chopped  shallots,  and  fry  them  lightly. 
Add  the  String  Beans,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little 
nutmeg.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  warmed,  then 
take  them  off  of  the  fire  and  add  a  piece  of  butter,  some  fine  chopped 
parsley,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice — tossing  them  over  until 
the  butter  is  melted. 

STRING   BEANS,    LYONNAISE. 

No.  151. — When  the  Beans  are  prepared  as  in  No.  148,  put  in  a 
flat  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter,  one  onion  cut  in  half  and  sliced  fine. 
Fry  lightly  and  then  add  the  Beans.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce.  Toss  them  over  the 
fire,  and  when  serving  add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley. 

STRING  BEANS,    POULETTE. 

No.  152. — When  the  Beans  are  prepared  as  in  No.  148,  put  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt,  pepper, 


36  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

and  nutmeg.  When  thoroughly  warmed  add  two  spoonfuls  of 
Allemande  sauce.  Toss  them  well  together,  and  when  ready  to 
serve  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  some  fine  chopped  parsley. 

STRING   BEANS,    BRETONNE. 

No.  153. — Prepare  the  Beans  as  in  No.  148.  Cut  two  onions  in  half  y 
trim  off  the  ends,  and  slice  them  fine.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  to  a  light  brown.  Then  add 
four  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  cook  until  it  is  two-thirds  reduced. 
Then  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce,  the  Beans,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  the  saucepan,  letting  them 
simmer  slowly  for  twenty  minutes. 

STRING   BEANS,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  154. — Put  in  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter,  and  add  one  fine 
sliced  onion.  .Fry  lightly.  Add  young  Beans,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished, 
and  two  spoonfuls  of  white  broth.  Cover  the  saucepan,  and  let. 
them  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  sprinkle  a  little  flour  over 
them,  tossing  them  over  well  and  cooking  for  fifteen  minutes  longer. 

STRING  BEANS,    WITH   CREAM. 

No.  155. — Prepare  the  Beans  as  in  No.  148.  Put  them  in  a  flat 
saucepan  with  some  fine  scraped  fresh  fat  pork.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley.  Let  them  simmer  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  and  when  ready  to  serve  add  a  glass  of  cream, 
into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  and  a  piece  of  butter. 
Toss  them  well  together.  Take  out  the  faggot  and  then  serve. 

STRING   BEANS,    COUNTRY   STYLE. 

No.  156. — Prepare  the  Beans  as  in  No.  148,  then  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Add  some  fine  chopped  parsley 
and  chives.  Sprinkle  them  with  flour.  Toss  them  over  and  add 
some  broth.  Let  them  simmer  for  half  an  hour,  and  when  the 
moisture  is  nearly  reduced,  add  a  glass  of  milk,  into  which  dilute 
the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs.  Mix  all  well  together  and  serve  with 
pieces  of  sliced  fat  pork  cooked  separately. 

STEING  BEANS,    PRESERVED   IN   SALT. 

No.  157. — Use  small  fresh  plucked  Beans.  Cut  off  the  ends  and 
string  them.  Parboil  them  for  two  minutes  in  plenty  of  water. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  37 

Immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  then  dry 
them  on  a  towel.  Put  in  a  keg  or  barrel  a  layer  of  salt,  then  one 
of  Beans,  alternating  until  the  keg  or  barrel  is  full.  Put  on  the 
cover  to  press  them.  Fill  up  next  day  with  Beans,  as  they  will 
have  settled.  If  they  show  too  much  water,  drain  half  off  and  add 
more  salt.  Cover  with  a  cloth  and  put  the  top  on  tight.  Keep  in 
a  cool  place. 

STRING  BEANS,    PRESERVED   IN   BRINE. 

No.  158. — Prepare  the  Beans  as  in  No.  157.  Put  them  in  layers 
in  a  glass  jar  and  then  cover  them  with  strong  cooked  brine. 
Twenty -four  hours  after  drain  off  the  brine,  boil  it,  add  more  salt, 
and  when  cold  pour  it  over  th'e  Beans.  Three  days  after  this  boil 
the  brine  again,  adding  salt,  and  when  cold  pour  it  over  the  Beans 
again,  cover  them  tight  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

STRING   BEANS,    PRESERVED   IN   CANS. 

No.  159. — Prepare  the  Beans  as  in  Xo.  157,  and  when  dried  ar- 
range them  in  layers  in  tin  cans  holding  one  pound  of  Beans.  Boil 
some  water,  lightly  salted,  and  when  cold  cover  the  Beans,  solder 
on  the  cover,  and  boil  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 

HOW   TO   PREPARE   SALTED   STRING   BEANS   FOR   COOKING. 

No.  160. — Soak  them  in  cold  water  for  four  hours,  changing  the 
water  once  or  twice.  Then  put  them  with  fresh  water  on  the  lire  to 
warm  slowly.  When  the  water  intends  to  boil,  drain  it  off  and  put 
on  fresh  cold  water  and  let  them  boil.  Cook  until  tender  and 
prepare  as  needed. 

STRING   BEAN   SALAD. 

No.  161. — Cook  some  small  String  Beans  as  in  No.  148.  When 
cold  put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  with  some  fine  sliced  cooked  onions. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  oil,  and  add  some  fine  chopped 
parsley.  Mix  all  together  without  breaking  the  Beans,  and  garnish 
with  beets  cut  in  rounds. 

STRING   BEAN   SALAD,   GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  162. — Prepare  same  as  in  No.  161.  Garnish  with  fillet  of 
anchovies  around  the  border,  and  cover  the  centre  with  a  Eemou- 
lade  sauce. 

STRING    BEANS   FOR    GARNITURE. 

No.  163. — String  Beans,  when  used  for  large  garniture,  are  cook. 
«d  as  in  No.  148,  immersed  in  cold  water,  then  thoroughly  warmed 


38  HARDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

and   seasoned.     Dress   them   in   bunches,    alternating   with    other 
vegetables. 

For  small  garniture,  cut  them  diamond  shape  an  inch  long,  and 
boil  them  the  usual  way.  Then  put  them  in  a  sauce-pan  with  a 
piece  of  butter.  Season  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  a  few  min- 
utes. Dress  plain  or  with  sauce  as  may  be  desired.  Care  should 
be  taken  in  cooking  to  keep  them  green.  In  order  to  do  this, 
instructions  as  given  in  No.  148  must  be  taken. 

WAX   BEANS,    MAITRE  D'HOTEL. 

No.  164. — "When  the  Beans  are  shelled  wash  them  in  cold  water; 
then  put  them  in  boiling  water  on  a  i  brisk  fire.  Have  the  water 
lightly  salted,  and  add  a  small  piece  of  butter.  When  cooked  drain 
them,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
Allemande  sauce.  Season,  and  toss  them  until  well  mixed  before 
serving,  and  add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley  and  a  piece  of  butter. 
Serve  hot. 

WHITE   OR   KIDNEY   BEANS,  WITH   PUREE     OF   ONIONS,    SOUBISE. 

No.  165. — Cook  the  Beans  as  in  No.  164,  and  when  cooked  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  puree,  of  onions,  white  or  brown. 
Let  them  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  in  serving  garnish  with 
scallops  of  Artichokes  around  the  dish. 

WHITE   BEANS,    COUNTRY   STYLE. 

No.  166. — After  the  Beans  are  shelled  and  washed,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  to  boil,  and  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  salt. 
When  done  drain  them  and  then  put  in  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  but- 
ter. Add  the  Beans,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little 
fine  chopped  parsley  and  chives.  Toss  them  well  together,  and  if 
they  should  get  too  thick  add  a  little  broth. 

GREEN  FLAGEOLET  BEANS,  MAITRE  D*HOTEL. 

No.  167. — Prepare  the  same  as  White  Beans  in  No.  164,  and  after 
they  are  boiled  immerse  them  in  cold  water.  Drain  them  and  keep 
in  a  cool  place  for  use  when  needed. 

GREEN  FLAGEOLET  BBsVNS,    GERMAN   STALE. 

No.  168. — When  the  Beans  are  boiled  drain  them.  Then  put 
them  into  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  season  with 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  39 

salt  and  pepper.  Toss  them  over  the  fire,  adding  two  spoonfuls  of 
Allemande  sauce,  and  in  seasoning  sprinkle  a  little  fine  chopped 
parsley  over  them. 

GREEN  FLAGEOLET  BEANS,  WITH  STRING  BEANS. 

No.  169. — When  the  Flageolet  Beans  are  boiled,  drain  them. 
Then  have  the  same  quantity  of  string  beans,  cut  diamond  shape 
(the  same  size  as  the  Flageolet  Beans),  boiled  and  drained.  Put 
both  of  them  into  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly 
warmed;  after  which  add  two  spoonfuls  of  cream  sauce  and  some 
fine  chopped  parsley. 

PUREE  OF  NEW  BEANS  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  170. — Shell  as  many  Beans  as  needed.  Boil  them  as  soon  as 
they  are  shelled,  in  water  lightly  salted,  with  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished  with  green  onions.  When  the  Beans  are  cooked,  drain 
them  on  a  colander.  Take  out  the  faggot  and  put  the  Beans  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream  or  Allemande  sauce. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  when  well  mixed  rub  them 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  the  puree  in  a^flat  saucepan  to 
reduce  it.  If  needed,  add  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  a  piece  of  butter 
before  serving. 

PUREE  OF  GREEN  FLAGEOLET  BEANS  FOB  GARNITURE. 

No.  171. — Prepare  and  cook  as  in  No.  170.  Rub  them  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  reduce  in  a  flat  saucepan  to  its  proper  consistency. 
Add  a  little  glaze  and  butter  before  serving. 

FLAGEOLET   BEANS   PRESERVED   IN   CANS. 

No.  172. — The  green  shelled  Flageolet  Beans  are  the  best.  Pluck 
them  while  young  and  tender.  Wash  them  and  then  parboil  them 
in  water,  lightly  salted,  until  three-quarters  cooked.  Drain  them  in 
a  colander  and  spread  them  on  a  towel,  and  when  cold  place  them 
in  cans  holding  a  pint.  Boil  some  water,  lightly  salted,  and  when 
cold  cover  the  Beans  with  it.  Add  to  each  can  a  pinch  of  carbonate 
of  soda.  Solder  on  the  cover  and  then  boil  in  a  hot  water  bath  for 
one  hour. 

DRY   WHITE   BEANS,    MAITRE   D'HOTEL. 

No.  173. — All  dry  beans  must  be  carefully  picked  and  then  washed 
in  cold  water.  Soak  the  quantity  needed  in  cold  water  over  night, 


40  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

then  drain  them  the  next  day  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  having 
them  well  covered  with  water.  When  they  boil  add  a  piece  of 
bacon  or  salt  pork  (previously  parboiled  for  a  few  minutes).  Cover 
the  saucepan  and  let  the  Beans  cook  continuously  and  slowly  until 
tender.  Then  take  out  the  pork  or  bacon  and  drain  half  of  the 
liquid  from  the  Beans.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and,  if  needed, 
add  a  piece  of  butter  with  fine  chopped  parsley.  Toss  them  well 
over  until  the  butter  is  melted. 

DRY   WHITE  BEANS,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  174. — Cook  them  the  same  as  in  No.  173,  and  when  done 
drain  off  the  broth.  Add  Allemaude  or  butter  sauce  and  mix 
well.  When  serving  add  fine  chopped  parsley,  and  slice  the  bacon 
or  pork  to  garnish  the  dish. 

DRY   WHITE   BEANS,    WITH  CREAM   SAUCE. 

No.  175. — Cook  the  Beans  as  in  No.  173.  When  cooked  drain 
them  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  Cream  sauce.  Season  well 
and  let  them  simmer  for  ten  minutes. 

DRY  WHITE  BEANS,  BRETON XE.  v 

No.  176. — Cook  the  Beans  as  in  No.  173,  and  when  cooked  drain 
them,  in  a  colander.  Put  in  a  saucepan  two  onions,  cut  in  half  and 
sliced  fine.  Fry  them  in  butter  to  a  light  brown  color,  and  add  a 
wine-glassful  of  vinegar;  and  when  reduced  one-third  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce  and  the  Beans.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an 
hour. 

DRY  WHITE  BEANS,  ROBERT. 

No.  177. — Cook  the  Beans  as  in  No  173,  and  when  cooked  drain 
them  in  a  colander.  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter  and  two 
fine  chopped  onions.  Fry  them  lightly  and  drain  off  the  butter. 
Add  three  teaspoonfuls  of  mustard  flour,  diluted  with  four  large 
spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce.  Then  add  one  quart  of  the  Beans 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Cover  the  saucepan 
and  let  it  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Before  serving  add  a  piece 
of  butter  and  toss  the  Beans  well  over  until  it  is  melted. 

DRY   WHITE   BEANS,    WITH    BACON. 

No.  178. — Pick  and  wash  two  quarts  of  white  Beans,  and  soak 
them  as  usual.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pound  of 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  41 

bacon  cut  in  square  pieces.  Have  the  whole  well  covered  with 
water.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  cover  the  saucepan,  and 
let  them  boil  slowly.  This  is  a  simple  but  very  nourishing  dish. 

DRY  WHITE  BEANS,  WITH  MARROW. 

No.  179. — When  the  Beans  are  cooked,  as  in  No.  173,  drain  them 
in  a  colander.  Put  into  a  flat  saucepan  some  marrow  cut  in  small 
pieces.  Fry  it  lightly,  and  then  add  the  Beans.  Season  well, 
adding  some  fine  chopped  chives,  tossing  the  whole  well  together, 
and  serve  immediately. 

HOW   TO   BAKE   BEANS   IN   POTS. 

No.  180, — Pick  two  quarts  of  Beans.  Wash  them  in  cold  water 
and  let  them  soak  in  fresh  water  over  night.  Them  drain  them  and 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  fresh  water.  Add  two  pounds  of  salt 
pork  (previously  washed).  Let  them  boil  for  half  an  hour  and 
drain  them  in  a  colander.  Put  the  Beans  in  a  pan  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  to  taste.  Add  four  spoonfuls  of  molasses,  mixing 
it  well  with  the  Beans.  Then  put  the  Beans  in  earthen  pots  with  a 
piece  of  the  pork  in  the  centre  of  each  pot  of  Beans.  Moisten  with 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  place  them  in  an  oven 
to  bake  slowly  over  night. 

DRY   WHITE   BEAN   SALAD. 

No.  181. — When  the  Beans  are  cooked  as  in  No.  173,  drain  them, 
and  when  cold  put  one  quart  of  Beans  in  a  salad  bowl,  with  two 
fine  chopped  onions,  which  you  will  have  parboiled  for  two  minutes 
and  immersed  in  cold  water,  and  then  pressed  dry  in  a  napkin. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  a  little  oil,  adding  some 
chopped  parsley  or  chives.  Mix  the  whole  well  together,  and 
garnish  with  beets  and  eggs. 

DRY   WHITE   BEANS  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  182. — When  the  Beans  are  cooked  as  in  No.  173,  drain  them 
and- put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  and  add  some  fine 
chopped  parsley,  or  with  butter,  Cream,  Allemande  or  Espagnole 
sauce  if  desired. 

PUREE   OF   DRY  WHITE   BEANS — WHITE. 

No.  183. — Cook  the  Beans  the  same  as  in  No.  173,  and  drain  them 
in  a  colander.  Put  in  a  saucepan  one  white  onion  chopped  fine, 


42  HARDER'S   AMERICAN    COOKERY. 

and  fry  it  lightly.  Add  one  quart  of  the  Beans  with  four  spoonfuls 
of  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce.  Season  wiih  salt  and  pepper,  and 
rub  the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  it  back  into  a  sauce- 
pan to  keep  warm,  and  before  serving,  put  in  a  piece  of  butter, 
at  the  same  time  stirring  the  puree  well  up. 

PUREE   OF   DRY   WHITE   BEANS — BROWN. 

No.  184. — Prepare  the  same  way  as  in  No.  183 — but  in  place  of 
Allemande  or  Cream  sauce,  use  Espagnole  sauce,  with  an  essence 
of  ham  or  game. 

PUREE  OF  DRY  WHITE  BEANS,  WITH  CELERY. 

No.  185. — Prepare  the  puree  the  same  as  in  No.  173,  and  when 
rubbed  through  a  sieve  put  it  into  a  flat  saucepan  and  reduce  it 
to  its  consistency  with  one  glass  of  cream.  Prepare  separately  a 
small  cut  Julienne  of  celery,  cooked  and  glazed,  and  when  done  add 
it  to  the  puree. 

RED   BEANS,    BOURGUIGNONNE. 

No.  186. — After  the  Beans  are  washed  and  cleaned  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  two  onions,  two  carrots,  a  faggot  of  parsley  well 
garnished,  and  a  piece  of  lean  bacon.  Moisten  to  cover  with  cold 
water.  Make  it  boil,  then  skim  and  let  it  cook  slowly.  When  the 
Beans  are  three-quarters  cooked  take  out  the  onions,  carrots  and 
faggot,  and  drain  off  half  the  moisture.  Add  the  same  quantity  of 
claret  wine.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  simmer  slowly  until 
cooked.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter,  tossing  them  well 
over,  and  serve  with  the  bacon  sliced. 

RED  BEANS,  CARDINAL — FOR  FAST  DAYS. 

No.  187. — Prepare  the  Beans  the  same  as  in  No.  173,  leaving 
out  the  bacon,  and  when  the  Beans  are  done  dish  them  up  with 
turnovers  of  fish  as  a  garniture. 

RED  BEANS,  DONOHOE  STYLE — FOR  FAST  DAYS. 

No.  188. — Cook  the  Beans  the  same  as  in  No.  173,  leaving  out  the 
bacon;  and  when  the  Beans  are  cooked  dish  them  with  a  garniture 
of  fried  oysters,  shad  roes,  or  milts  of  carp. 

BLACK  BEANS,  WITH  BUTTER. 

No.  189. — Wash  and  clean  the  Beans  well.  Cook  them  the  same 
as  in  No.  173,  and  when  done  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OP   TASTE.  43 

of  butter,  tossing  them  well  over  the  fire,  seasoning  them  with  salt 
and  pepper. 

BEOAD   BEANS. 

No.  190. — Are  best  when  young  and  prepared  the  same  as  the 
other  Beans.  After  they  are  boiled  drain  them  and  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg 
and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  and  serve. 

BROAD  BEANS,  WITH  CREAM  POULETTE. 

No.  191. — When  shelled,  wash  them.  Boil  them  as  usual,  then 
immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Put 
into  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  butter  and  the  same  quantity  of  flour. 
Stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  and  allow  it  to  cook  for  ten  minutes. 
Dilute  the  butter  and  flour  with  one  quart  of  white  broth  and  add 
the  Beans.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  faggot  of  pars- 
ley garnished  with  a  sprig  of  summer  savory.  Let  the  whole  simmer 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Before  serving  add  a  glassful  of  cream, 
letting  it  boil  up  once,  and  serve  with  some  fine  chopped  parsley 
thrown  over  the  Beans. 

LIMA  BEANS. 

No.  192. — When  shelled  should  be  allowed  to  lay  in  cold  water  a 
short  time  before  cooking.  Boil  them  on  a  brisk  fire  in  plenty  of 
water,  lightly  salted,  until  tender.  Then  drain  them  and  return 
them  to  the  saucepan.  Add  a  piece  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  toss- 
ing the  whole  well  together  and  serve. 

LIMA  BEANS,  WITH  BUTTER  SAUCE. 

No.  193. — When  cooked  and  drained  as  in  No.  192,  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  Butter  sauce.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  the  juice  of 
one  lemon  and  add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley.  Toss  them  well 
over  the  fire  and  serve. 

LIMA  BEANS,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  194. — Cook  the  Beans  the  same  as  in  No.  192,  and  before 
serving  add  a  glass  of  cream,  into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  three 
raw  eggs  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  the  whole  well  together  over 
the  fire  and  serve  with  fine  chopped  parsley  over  them. 


44  HAKDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

LIMA  BEANS,  MACEDOINE. 

No.  195. — Put  into  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter,  two  fine  chopped 
shallots  and  a  handful  of  sliced  fresh  mushrooms.  Cover  the 
saucepan  and  cook  them  lightly.  Then  add  two  soup  spoonfuls  of 
flour  and  dilute  the  whole  with  a  pint  of  white  broth,  stirring  it 
so  as  to  have  no  lumps.  Add  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished  with 
summer  savory.  Put  with  this  two  quarts  of  the  Beans  (previously 
boiled  as  in  No.  192)  and  put  on  the  lid  and  let  them  simmer  slowly 
for  twenty  minutes.  Take  out  the  faggot  and  add  a  quarter  of  its 
quantity  of  boiled  artichoke  bottoms  cut  into  pieces  the  size  of  the 
Beans.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Allow  them  to  simmer  for 
ten  minutes  longer  and  before  serving  add  a  little  line  chopped 
parsley  or  chives. 

SOUPS. 

PUREE   OF   GREEN  FLAGEOLET  BEANS,    SAINT   GERMAIN. 

No.  196. — Take  one  quart  of  Green  Flageolet  Beans  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  lightly  salted. 
Add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with 
leeks.  Cook  them  on  a  brisk  tire,  and  when  tender  drain  them. 
Then  return  the  Beans  to  the  saucepan  and  add  two  quarts  of  thick- 
ened chicken  or  veal  broth.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch 
of  sugar.  Let  them  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  skim  it 
well,  take  out  the  faggot  and  rub  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Put  it  back  in  a  saucepan  to  keep  warm,  and  before  serving  add  a 
piece  of  butter,  stirring  it  well  until  melted.  Serve  with  boiled 
rice  separately. 

PUREE  OF  GREEN  FLAGEOLET  BEANS,  SOUBISE. 

No.  197. — Cook  the  Beans  as  in  No.  196,  and  when  cooked,  drain 
and  return  them  to  the  saucepan,  adding  one  quart  of  cream  and 
one  pint  of  Soubise  sauce  diluted  to  its  proper  consistency  with 
chicken  broth.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar. 
Hub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  to  keep 
warm  (not  letting  it  boil).  Before  serving,  add  a  piece  of  butter 
and  some  fine  cut  chives.  Serve  separately  with  small  fried  bread 
crumbs. 

PUREE  OF  FRESH  WHITE  BEANS,  NEWTON  STYLE. 

No.  198.  —Prepare  the  puree  the  same  as  in  No.  196,  and  before 
serving  add  a  pint  of  cream,  into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  four  raw 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  45 

eggs,  and  a  piece  of  butter,  stirring  the  puree  well.  Add  some  fine 
cut  chives  or  parsley.  Serve  with  a  garniture  of  forced  meat  of 
chicken,  rolled  into  balls  of  the  size  of  a  pea,  poached  separately  in 
broth. 

PUREE  OF  FRESH  BLACK  BEANS,  FAUBONNE. 

No.  199. — Prepare  the  puree  the  same  as  in  No.  196.  Add  a  thick- 
ened beef  broth,  and  when  ready  to  serve  add  a  garniture  of  small 
vegetables,  cut  with  a  spoon  cutter,  cooked  and  glazed. 

CREAM  OF  GREEN  FLAGEOLET  BEANS,  LELAND  STYLE. 

No..  200. — Put  one  quart  of  Beans  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts, 
of  boiling  water.  Add  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished  with  celery 
and  leeks,  one  onion,  into  which  stick  three  cloves,  one  carrot,  and 
a  little  salt.  Cook  on  a  brisk  fire  until  done,  and  then  take  out  the 
carrot,  onion,  and  faggot,  and  add  two  quarts  of  Cream  sauce,, 
rubbing  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  back  into  a  saucepan 
to  keep  warm.  Season  to  taste,  and  before  serving  add  a  pint  of 
cream,  into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  five  raw  eggs  and  a  piece  of 
butter,  while  stirring  the  soup  well.  Add  to  this  soup  some  green 
of  spinach,  so  as  to  give  it  a  bright  green  color.  Serve  separately 
with  some  fried  peas,  as  explained  in  the  garniture  for  soups. 

PUREE   OF   DRY  WHITE  BEANS,    PIONEER   STYLE. 

No.  201 — Take  one  quart  of  dry  white  Beans.  Wash  and  pick 
them  well,  allowing  them  to  soa,k  overnight  in  cold  water.  Drain 
them,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  fresh 
water,  two  quarts  of  broth,  and  one  pound  of  salt  pork  (that  has 
been  previously  washed  and  parboiled  for  five  minutes),  a  piece  of 
raw  ham  bone,  two  onions  and  two  carrots.  Cover  the  saucepan 
and  cook  slowly  until  well  cooked.  Then  take  out  the  pork,  ham 
bone  and  carrots,  and  pound  the  soup  through  a  fine  colander. 
Put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
adding  a  piece  of  butter. 

Cut  the  pork  into  small  square  pieces  and  fry  it,  and  when  serving 
add  it  to  the  soup  with  small  fried  bread  crumbs. 

PUREE  OF  DRY  WHITE  BEANS,  ST.  GEORGE. 

No.  202. — Prepare  it  the  same  as  in  No.  201,  leaving  out  the  ham 
bone,  and  when  cooked  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  back 
into  the  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  When  ready  to  serve  add  a  pint  of 


46  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

cream,  a  piece  of  butter,  some  fine  cut  chives  and  fine  chopped 
chervil.     Serve  separately  with  some  fried  bread  crumbs. 

PUREE  OF  DRY  RED  BEANS,  CONDE. 

No.  203. — Take  one  quart  of  Beans.  Pick  and  wash  them  well 
and  then  soak  them  for  three  hours  in  two  quarts  of  fresh  water. 
Drain  them  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  water, 
and  one  of  broth,  and  put  them  on  the  fire  to  boil.  Add  a  faggot 
of  parsley,  garnished  with  leeks  and  celery,  two  carrots,  two  onions, 
into  which  stick  four  cloves,  a  piece  of  raw  ham  bone,  and  a  little 
salt.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  cook  them  slowly  until  thoroughly 
well  done.  Then  take  out  the  ham  bone,  the  faggot,  the  onions, 
and  the  carrots,  and  pound  the  soup  through  a  colander.  Add  two 
quarts  of  game  broth  and  rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put 
it  back  into  the  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  stirring  it  well  until 
it  boils,  then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  and  continue  boiling 
slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Skim  it,  and  when  ready  to  serve  add  a 
piece  of  butter.  Serve  with  boiled  rice  or  fried  bread  crumbs. 

PUREE  OF  BEANS,  FOR  FAST  DAYS. 

No.  204. — All  of  the  purees  of  beans  described  in  this  book,  may 
be  prepared  without  using  meats  or  broth,  if  desired.  In  this  case 
use  water,  carrots,  onions,  leeks  and  celery,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley, 
well  garnished  with  herbs.  When  the  beans  are  three-quarters 
cooked  add  to  them  the  crumbs  of  a  loaf  of  bread.  When 
thoroughly  cooked  remove  the  faggot  and  carrots,  leaving  the  leek, 
celery,  and  onions,  if  desired.  Then  rub  the  soup  through  a  fine 
sieve  and  season  it  properly. 

NOTES   ON   BEANS. 

No.  205. — When  beans  are  boiled  with  salt  pork  they  should  not 
be  seasoned  too  much,  as  the  pork  itself  contains  considerable  salt. 

The  pork  should  be  washed  in  cold  water  and  care  taken  not  to 
use  any  that  is  rancid. 

When  bacon  is  used,  trim  it  and  then  parboil  it  for  five  minutes. 
Then  immerse  it  in  cold  water  to  remove  the  smoky  taste. 

Dry  Beans  should  first  be  carefully  picked,  as  there  are  always 
small  stones  and  pieces  of  earth  mixed  with  them.  Wash  them 
well  in  cold  water,  and  allow  them  to  soak  in  fresh  water  over 
night. 

When  dry  Beans  are  soaked  in  lukewarm  water,  and  the  water  is 
several  times  renewed,  they  will  cook  much  quicker  than  when 
soaked  in  cold  water. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  47 


ARTICLE  XVI 1 1 


Frci:cl»  BKEXS.  German 

Betttravc.  Runkel  Rube. 

No.  '206. — The  "Beet  is  a  hardy  biennial  root  plant  of  a  blood-red 
color.  It  contains  a  large  substance  of  sugar  and  is  much  used  as 
a  vegetable,  for  salads,  and  as  a  relish.  It  is  refreshing  and  nu- 
tritious when  properly  prepared.  There  are  five  varieties  of  Beets. 
The  Swiss  chard,  or  sea-kale  Beet,  is  a  distinct  vegetable  and  much 
superior  to  the  common  Beet  for  greens.  If  sown  at  the  same  time 
as  the  common  varieties,  it  will  be  fit  to  use  before  them.  Later 
on  the  plants  form  broad,  flat,  beautiful  white  and  wax- like  stems 
to  the  leaves,  which  are  very  delicious  when  cooked.  The  young 
leaves  of  the  common  varieties  are  cooked  with  sorrel,  or  cooked 
and  prepared  the  same  as  spinach.  Still  another  variety  is  called 
the  mangel,  which  is  seldom  used  for  the  table. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  207. — The  soil  which  is  suitable  for  the  culture  of  the  Beet 
is  that  which  is  rather  light  than  otherwise,  provided  always  that  it 
is  thoroughly  enriched  by  manure.  Sow  them  in  drills  one  foot 
apart  and  two  inches  deep.  When  the  plants  have  attained  three 
or  four  leaves  then  thin  them  out  so  they  may  stand  five  or  six 
inches  apart.  Keep  them  free  from  weeds  by  hand  weeding  or 
hoeing.  In  October  the  roots  may  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  the 
cellar  or  in  pits  outside,  like  potatoes,  care  being  taken  that  they 
are  not  bruised  or  injured  in  the  process. 

EGYPTIAN   BEET   TUBNIP. 

No.  208. — The  earliest  Beet  and  one  of  the  leading  market  sorts, 
having  a  deep  crimson  color. 

BASTIAN'S  BLOOD  TUENIP. 

No.  209. — An  early  variety  of  a  blood  red  color,  when  properly 
cooked. 

DEWING'S  BLOOD  BEET. 

No.  210. — The  roots  are  of  a  deep  blood  red  color.  It  is  of  fine 
form  and  flavor,  very  early  and  an  excellent  variety. 


48  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EARLY  FLAT  BASSANO. 
No.  211. — Chiefly  valuable  for  its  earliness. 

LONG  SMOOTH  BLOOD  RED. 

No.  212. — An  excellent  late  variety. 

EARLY   YELLOW   BEET. 

213. — Similar  to  the  blood  red,  but  different  in  color.  The  flesh 
is  yellow,  tender  and  sweet. 

PINE   APPLE   BEET. 

No.  214. — A  highly  esteemed  English  variety  of  rich  deep  crim- 
son color. 

BRAZILIAN   VARIEGATED. 

No.  215. — Beautiful  for  garnishing  and  flower  garden  decoration. 
The  stems  and  veins  are  richly  colored  with  crimson,  yellow  and 
white. 

SWISS  CHARD,  OR  SEA  KALE  BEET. 

No.  216. — This  variety  is  cultivated  solely  for  its  leaves.  The 
midrib  is  stewed  and  served  the  same  as  asparagus,  and  the  other 
parts  of  the  leaves  are  used  like  spinach.  If  it  is  cut  often,  new 
and  more  tender  leaves  will  be  produced. 

HOW   TO   PREPARE   BEETS   FOR   COOKING. 

No.  217, — Beets  when  young  are  prepared  as  a  vegetable  for  the 
table.  They  must  be  boiled  whole,  without  having  anything  cut 
from  them  except  the  tops.  These  must  always  be  cut  an  inch  from 
the  root  and  care  taken  not  to  injure  the  root,  for  if  it  is  in  any  way 
injured  the  beet  will  lose  its  flavor  and  color.  When  boiled  let 
them  get  cold,  then  peel  or  rub  off  the  skin  and  prepare  as  needed. 

BOILED   BEETS   STEWED. 

No.  218. — Boil  the  Beets,  and  when  done  skin  and  slice  them. 
If  large,  cut  them  in  two  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  add  a  piece  of  butter,  tossing  them  over  the 
fire.  Serve  hot,  or  boil  a  glass  of  vinegar  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  it  over  the  Beets. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  49 

STEWED   BEETS,    HANOVERIAN   STYLE. 

No.  219. — Boil  one  dozen  ordinary  sized  Beets  and  when  done  skin 
and  slice  them.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  fine  chopped  white  onion 
with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  it  lightly  and  then  add  a  Vine-glassful 
of  vinegar.  When  it  boils  add  the  sliced  beets  and  four  ounces  of 
butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Toss  them  over  occasionally 
until  thoroughly  warmed,  and  before  serving  add  some  fine 
chopped  parsley. 

STEWED   BEETS,    WITH   CREAM    SAUCE. 

No.  220. — Make  a  Cream  sauce  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg 
and  coriander.  Add  the  sliced  Beets,  and,  when  thoroughly 
warmed,  serve  them. 

STEWED    BEETS,    WITH   BUTTER   SAUCE. 

No.  221. — Prepare  the  Beets  as  first  described  in  No.  218.  Add 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  Butter  sauce,  tossing  them  well  over,  and  before 
serving  add  some  fine  chopped  parsley. 

STEWED   BEETS,    ST.    IGNATIUS. 

No.  222. — Chop  a  white  onion  fine  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  four  ounces  of  butter.  Fry  it  lightly  and  then  add  two  soup 
spoonfuls  .of  flour.  Cook  to  a  light  brown,  while  stirring  it  with  a 
wooden  spoon.  Dilute  this  with  a  small  wine-glassful  of  vinegar 
and  some  white  broth  to  make  a  light  sauce.  Add  three  dozen 
young  boiled  Beets,  cut  into  quarters,  allowing  them  to  simmer  for 
fifteen  minutes. 

ROAST   BEETS. 

No.  223. — Use  medium  sized  Beets.  Rub  them  with  a  towel 
well  impregnated  with  brandy,  lay  them  on  a  wire  crate  and  place 
it  into  a  roasting  pan.  This  mode  will  permit  them  to  cook  more 
evenly,  as  it  takes  about  six  hours  to  have  them  properly  done. 
The  crust  of  the  Beet  will  then  be  carbonized.  In  cooking-  Beets 
in  this  manner  all  the  sugary  substance  of  the  Beet  concentrates  in 
the  center.  It  makes  a  most  delicious  dish,  but  is  seldom  prepared 
in  this  way  in  consequence  of  the  time  used  in  cooking. 

BEETS   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  224. — When  the  Beets  are  boiled,  rub  off  the  skin  and  trim 
them.     Place   them    whole   in    earthen  jars,    covering   them   with 
4 


50  HAEDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKEEY. 

vinegar,  and  when  garnishing  salads  with  them  they  are  cut  into 
various  fancy  shapes. 

BEET    FEITTEES,    CHAETEEUSE. 

» 

No.  225. — When  the  Beets  are  boiled,  peel  them  and  then  slice 
them,  but  not  too  thin.  Spread  them  on  the  table  and  cover  half 
the  sliced  Beets  with  a  thin  slice  of  onion.  Then  season  them  with 
salt  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  sprinkle  over  them  a  little  fine  chopped 
parsley  or  chives.  Then  cover  each  of  these  with  the  other  slices 
of  Beets,  pressing  each  of  them  well  together.  Dip  them  into 
frying  batter  and  fry  in  hot  lard.  Drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  dish 
them  up  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

NOTE. — Burnet  or  chives  finely  chopped  may  be  used  with  the  parsley  in  seasoning  them. 

BEET   SUGAE. 

No.  226. — Beets  are  largely  cultivated  -for  the  manufacture  of 
sugar,  which  was  first  made  about  1812,  by  a  French  chemist,  dur- 
ing the  blockade  and  siege  of  the  First  Empire.  Beet  sugar  is 
cheaper  than  that  made  from  the  cane,  but  is  not  so  profitable  in 
its  use. 

BEET  JUJCE   FOE   SOUPS. 

No.  227. — Beet  juice  is  made  for  certain  kinds  of  Polish  soups,  as 
is  explained  in  the  book  on  soups.  Peel  and  cut  in  quarters  enough 
of  the  finest  kind  of  red  beets  to  fill  a  small  barrel.  After  putting 
them  in  the  barrel  pour  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cold  water  to 
cover  them.  Then  put  a  linen  cloth  over  the  top  and  the  cover 
over  that.  Place  the  barrel  where  the  temperature  is  mild,  to  allow 
the  liquid  to  ferment.  In  eight  or  ten  days  drain  off  the  liquid  and 
use  it  as  directed.  If  bread  crumbs  or  barley  is  used  it  will  bring 
on  fermentation  much  quicker. 

BEET   SALAD   WITH  VEGETABLES. 

No.  228. — Beets  mixed  with  corn  salad,  lamb  lettuce  or  celery 
make  a  fine  salad. 

Youn^  Beets  sliced,  with  an  equal  proportion  of  artichoke 
bottoms,  potatoes,  white  beans  and  glazed  onions,  and  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  olive  oil,  and  nicely  arranged  in  a 
salad  bowl  garnished  with  water  cress,  makes  a  fine  breakfast 
salad. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  51 

PICKLED   BEETS. 

No.  229. — When  the  Beets  are  boiled,  slice  them  and  lay  them 
in  jars,  alternating  each  layer  with  sliced  onions,  a  little  horse- 
radish, and  a  few  cloves.  When  the  jar  is  full,  cover  them  with 
vinegar.  These  pickled  Beets  are  for  immediate  use. 

PICKLED   BEETS  FOB   RELISHES,  GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  230. — When  the  Beets  are  boiled,  peel  them  and  cut  them 
into  slices  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Lay  the  slices  in  layers  in 
an  earthen  jar,  alternating  each  layer  with  some  fine  sliced  onions, 
a  few  grains  of  pepper  and  coriander  (or  cumin  if  desired).  When 
the  jar  is  full,  pour  over  the  Beets  some  cold  boiled  vinegar,  into 
which  you  add  (while  boiling  it)  four  ounces  of  sugar  to  each  quart 
of  vinegar.  Cover  them  tight  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

NOTE.— If  prepared  with  cumin,  leave  out  the  onions. 

BEETS  TOR   RELISHES,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  231. — Slice  fine  four  cold  boiled  Beets,  and  season  them  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Dish  them  in  relish  dishes  and  set  in  a  cool 
place.  Mash  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  fine,  and  dilute 
them  with  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  oil  and  vinegar.  When  ready  to 
serve,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  Beets,  and  garnish  with  fine  chopped 
hard-boiled  eggs. 


XIX. 


Froitch  BENE.  German 

Ben.  Bene. 

No.  232. — Bene  is  said  to  have  been  introduced  from  Africa.  It 
is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  much  used  in  the  Southern  States.  The 
seeds  are  used  for  food  (being  first  parched),  stewed  with  meats, 
and  are  also  used  for  puddings — the  same  as  rice.  An  oil  is 
extracted  from  the  seed,  which  does  not  easily  become  rancid,  and 
is  used  for  softening  and  whitening  the  skin.  The  leaves,  if 
immersed  in  a  tumbler  of  water,  will  convert  it  into  a  mucilaginous 
drink,  very  beneficial  in  cases  of  cholera-infantum  and  diarrhoea. 


52  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CULTURE. 

No.  233. — Sow  in  spring,  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  settled,  in. 
rich,  sandy  soil,  carefully  prepared,  and  allow  the  plants  to  stand 
two  feet  apart,  keeping  the  ground  loose  and  free  from  weeds.  The 
plant  will  yield  a  greater  amount  of  herbage  if  the  top  is  broken  or 
cut  off  when  three-quarters  grown. 

BI-FOEMED  LEAVED. 

No.  234. — The  plant  is  large.  The  lower  leaves  are  two-parted,, 
while  those  of  the  upper  part  of  the  stalk  are  oval  and  entire. 

OVAL   LEAVED. 

No.  235. — The  stem  is  about  two  feet  high,  with  a  few  short 
branches.  The  leaves  are  oblong,  and  entire  on  the  borders. 

TEI-FIDE  LEAVED. 

No.  236. — This  is  taller  and  more  vigorous  than  the  preceding 
kinds.  The  leaves  are  tri-fide,  or  three-parted. 


xx. 


French  BOLETUS   (Esculent).  German 

Cepes.  JMorcheln. 

No.  237. — This  is  a  variety  of  the  Mushroom  family,  comprising 
only  two  species  that  are  eatable. 

The  Boletus  etulis  is  very  palatable,  resembling  the  common 
mushroom  in  taste. 

The  Boletus  scaber  is  of  good  quality,  when  young  and  fresh,  but 
is  of  little  value  when  dried,  as  it  loses  much  of  its  odor  and  be- 
comes insipid  and  unfit  for  use.  For  preparation,  see  Mushrooms. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  53 


ARTICLE  XXI. 


French  BORAGE.  German 

Bourrache.  Boretsch. 

No.  238. — Borage  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  being  used  as  a  pot 
herb  and  for  bee  pasturage.  The  leaves,  immersed  in  water,  give 
an  agreeable  taste  and  flavor.  It  is  used  sometimes  for  medicinal 
purposes.  The  leaves  when  young  are  often  used  for  salads.  The 
flowers  are  dried  in  the  shade  and  used  for  tisanes.  The  flower  is 
star  shaped,  colored  blue,  white  or  red,  and  is  occasionally  used  by 
female  cooks  to  garnish  dishes. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  239. — Sow  in  April  in  rich  sandy  soil,  carefully  prepared,  in 
drills  ten  inches  apart  and  half  an  inch  deep.  The  stalk  and  foliage 
contains  a  large  proportion  of  nitre,  and  when  dry  they  burn  like 
match  paper. 


ARTICLE:  xxii. 


BRIAR    LEAVES. 

Feuille  die  R'>nce.  Brier  Witter. 

No.  240. — Briar  Lsaves  are  used  in  diet  drinks  (tisanes)  for  colds 
and  sore  throats.  The  leaves  are  driei,  placed  in  boxes,  and  kept 
in  a  dry  place  until  used. 


ARTICLE  xxill. 


BROCOLI. 

Choux  Broccoli.  Brocoli  or  Spargel  K»hL 

No.  241. — Brocoli  resembles  cauliflower,  but  is  more  hardy.  In 
parts  of  this  country,  where  the  winter  is  not  severe,  it  is  to  be 
had  from  November  to  March.  It  is  one  of  the  best  vegetables, 
has  a  fine  flavor  and  is  easily  digested.  There  are  two  kinds,  the 


54  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

white  and  the  purple.  The  Brocoli  is  not  as  compact  as  the 
cauliflower,  its  branches  being  longer  and  separate.  It  is  prepared 
in  all  the  styles  that  cauliflower  is  prepared  in. 

CULTURE. 

No.  242. — In  the  Northern  States  sow  them  in  May  and  transplant 
in  June.  In  the  Southern  States  sow  them  in  July  and  transplant 
in  August,  as  they  dislike  summer  heat  more  than  cold  weather. 
They  succeed  best  in  a  moist  and  rather  cool  atmosphere.  Sow  in 
deep  rich  soil,  with  an  abundance  of  moisture,  which  in  dry  seasons 
must  be  applied  artificially. 

WHITE  CAPE. 

No.  243. — The  heads  are  of  medium  size;  close,  compact,  and  of 
a  creamy  white  color.  One  of  the  most  certain  to  head. 

PURPLE  CAPE. 

No.  2i4.— One  of  the  hardiest  and  most  popular  varieties,  most 
certain  to  form  a  good  head,  and  is  the  earliest  of  the  purple  varieties. 

BROCOLI,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

* 

No.  245. — Cut  the  flower  buds  of  the  Brocoli  in  small  bunches, 
boil  them  in  water,  lightly  salted,  and  when  tender  drain  them. 
Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  tossing  them  over  a  brisk  fire.  Before  serving 
them  pour  over  them  some  Anchovy  butter  sauce,  in  which  add  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  some  finely  chopped  parsley. 

BROCOLI  WITH  HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE. 

No.  246. — Trim  and  boil  them  the  same  as  in  No.  245.  When 
boiled  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  and  then  pour  a  Hollandaise  sauce 
over  them.  Serve  hot. 

BROCOLI  FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  247. — Cut  the  flower  buds  in  small  pieces  and  boil  them  as 
in  No.  245.  Drain  them  and  serve  them  in  bunches  around  the 
intended  dish,  with  some  reduced  Cream  or  Allemande  sauce  over 
them. 

BROCOLI   CREAM   SOUP. 

No.  248. — Prepare  them  the  same  as  the  soup  of  cream  of  cauli- 
flower. See  article  on  Cauliflower. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  55 


ARTICLE  XXIV. 


French  BROOKLINE  OR   SPEEDWELL.  German 

Cresfinoe'e  Veronigue.  Wilde  Kruosemunze. 

No.  249. — Brookline  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant,  and  grows 
naturally  in  ditches  and  streams  of  water.  The  stem  is  thick, 
smooth  and  succulent.  It  sends  out  roots  at  the  joints,  by  which 
the  plant  spreads.  The  whole  plant  is  used  as  a  salad,  in  the  same 
manner,  and  for  the  same  purpose  as  water  cress.  It  is  excellent 
as  an  anti-scorbutic. 


XXV. 


BRUSSELS  SPROUTS. 

Choux  de  Bruxelles.  Sprossen  Kohl. 

No.  250. — Brussels  Sprouts  are  small  cabbage  sprouts  the  size  of 
a  nut.  They  get  green  in  the  latter  part  of  the  fall,  and  are  one  of 
the  best  of  winter  vegetables,  gradually  becoming  more  and  more 
appreciated  in  the  United  States.  The  plant  grows  from  two  to 
three  feet  in  height,  and  produces  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  an 
abundance  of  sprouts,  which  have  an  excellent  and  mild  flavor. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  251. — The  culture  is  the  same  as  for  cabbage.  If  early 
plants  are  raised  in  hot  beds  they  will  perfect  themselves  in  Sep- 
tember. When  the  winters  are  not  very  severe  they  may  remain  in 
the  ground,  to  be  cut  as  needed. 

TALL   FRENCH. 

No.  252. — A  variety  producing  an  abundance  of  sprouts. 

DWARF   IMPROVED. 

No.  253. — A  variety  producing  compact  sprouts  of  excellent 
quality. 


56  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  FOR  COOKING. 

No.  254. — Wash  the  Sprouts  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  take  off  the 
outer  leaves,  drain  them  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  boiling 
water  lightly  salted.  Let  them  cook  on  a  brisk  fire  until  tender, 
and  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  and  when  cold  drain  them, 
discarding  the  fallen  leaves  from  the  sprouts.  If  used  as  a  garniture 
they  should  not  be  boiled  as  much  as  when  used  as  a  vegetable. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS   WITH   FINE   HERBS. 

No.  255. — After  the  sprouts  are  boiled  as  in  No.  254,  spread  them 
on  a  pan  and  pick  off  the  outer  leaves.  Put  the  sprouts  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  season  them  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. Warm  them  thoroughly  and  when  ready  to  serve  add  some 
fine  chopped  parsley. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS   WITH    SAUCE. 

No.  256. — After  the  sprouts  are  prepared  as  in  Vo.  255,  add  some 
Allemande  sauce,  tossing  them  well  together.  Serve  with  some  fine 
chopped  parsley  over  them. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  257. — When  the  sprouts  are  boiled  as  in  No.  254,  put  them 
into  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  them  with  salt, 
pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  until  thor- 
oughly warmed,  then  add  some  Espagnole  sauce.  Serve  them  with 
a  garniture  of  roast  chestnuts  and  small  fried  sausages  around  the 
dish. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  258. — When  the  sprouts  are  boiled  as  in  No.  254,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  warmed.  Dress 
them  in  bunches  around  the  dish. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS   FOR   GARNITURE,    WITH   BROILED   MEATS. 

No.  259. — Prepare  them  the  same  as  in  No.  254,  adding  some 
butter  or  Allemande  sauce,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  some  fine 
chopped  parsley.  Serve  in  the  center  of  the  dish. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  57 

PUKEE   OF   BKUSSELS   SPROUTS   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  260. — When  the  sprouts  are  boiled,  drain  them.  Then  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  them  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  little  nutmeg.  Toss  them  over  the  fire,  adding 
some  Cream  sauce.  Should  the  sprouts  not  be  of  a  bright  green 
color  add  some  green  of  spinach.  Rub  the  whole  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Return  them  to  the  saucepan  and  add  a  piece  of  butter  and 
a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze. 


ARTICLE  XXVI. 


BUCK'S-HORN,  OR  COCK'S-HEAD  PLANTAIN. 

French  German 

Plantain  oil  Corn  de  Serf.  Paradiesfeiye. 

No.  261. — This  is  a  hardy  annual.  The  root  leaves  are  put  forth 
horizontally,  and  spread  regularly  about  a  common  center,  somewhat 
in  the  form  of  a  rosette.  The  plant  is  cultivated  for  its  leaves, 
which  are  used  as  a  salad.  They  should  be  plucked  while  young 
and  tender,  or  when  half-grown. 

CULTURE. 

No.  262. — It  succeeds  best  in  soil  comparatively  light.  Sow  in 
April  in  shallow  drills,  eight  inches  apart.  When  the  plants  are 
about  an  inch  high  thin  them  to  four  inches  apart. 


ARTICLE  XXVII. 


BUCKWHEAT. 

Sarrasin  ou  ble  noir.  Buchweilzen. 

No.  263. — Buckwheat  originated  in  Asia,  but  it  is  now  universally 
grown.  It  is  easily  cultivated,  and  in  a  favorable  climate  will 
produce  two  crops.  Its  use  is  healthful  and  nourishing,  and  it  is 
easy  of  digestion,  especially  when  boiled  with  milk.  When  cold, 
after  having  been  boiled,  it  is  cut  in  slices  and  fried.  When  the 


58  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

Buckwheat  flour  is  made  into  batter,  it  makes  a  winter  breakfast 
dish  well  known  to  and  appreciated  by  all  Americans.  Buckwheat, 
when  made  into  bread,  is  only  good  while  in  its  fresh  state,  for  as 
soon  as  it  becomes  dry  it  splits,  and  on  being  cut,  crumbles  into 
small  pieces  and  becomes  hard  to  digest. 

COMMON   BUCKWHEAT. 

No.  264. — Buckwheat  should  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  June, 
and  should  be  threshed  as  soon  as  it  is  dry,  on  the  ground  of  a 
barn  floor.  If  allowed  to  stand  in  mass  it  quickly  gathers  moisture. 

SILVER   HULLED   BUCKWHEAT. 

No.  265. — This  variety  is  a  great  improvement  on  the  ordi- 
nary Buckwheat.  Sown  at  the  same  time  as  the  common  Buck- 
wheat, it  continues  in  bloom  longer,  matures  earlier,  and  yields 
nearly  double  under  the  same  conditions.  The  grain  is  of  a 
beautiful  light  gray  color,  varying  slightly  in  shade,  and  the  corners 
are  much  less  prominent  than  in  the  ordinary  variety,  while  the 
husk  is  thinner,  thereby  saving  twenty  per  cent,  in  the  process  of 
manufacturing  into  flour. 

BUCKWHEAT  CAKES  WITH  YEAST. 

No.  266. — Put  three  pounds  of  Buckwheat  flour  into  a  pan,  and 
make  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  flour.  Pour  into  this  three  pints 
of  water,  two  ounces  of  dissolved  compressed  yeast,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  and  mix  them  slowly  to  make  a  light  batter 
without  lumps.  Gather  the  sides  together,  cover  the  pan  with  a 
cloth  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  overnight  to  raise.  Next  morning 
mix  it  up  gently  before  baking. 

NOTE.— When  a  little  syrup  is  added  to  the  batter  in  the  morning,  they  will  bake  to  a  nicer 
color.  A  handful  or  two  of  corn  meal  is  often  added  while  mixing  the  Buckwheat  flour. 

BUCKWHEAT   CAKES  WITH  BAKING  POWDER. 

No.  267. — Put  into  a  pan  three  pounds  of  Buckwheat  flour  and 
three  soup-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder.  Mix  them  up  well,  and 
make  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  flour,  into  which  pour  three  pints 
of  hike-warm  water  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt  and  mix  to  a 
light  batter.  Ten  minutes  after  mixing,  bake  it.  Should  the 
cakes  not  be  light  enough,  add  a  little  more  baking  powder,  as  the 
majority  of  baking  powders  are  very  unreliable. 

NOTE.— There  is  to  be  had  a  prepared  Buckwheat  flour,  which  is  much  preferable  for  small 
families.  This  flour  is  easily  prepared,  it  being  only  necessary  to  use  luke-warm  water  and  salt, but 
the  batter  must  be  used  as  soon  as  mixed. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE,  59 

BAKING  OF  BUCKWHEAT  CAKES. 

No.  268. — Much  depends  on  the  cooking  of  the  cakes  to  have 
them  done  properly.  First,  the  griddle  must  always'be  very  clean, 
heated  evenly,  and  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  burning  hot.  Grease 
it  lightly  with  leaf  lard,  and  drop  enough  batter  to  make  ordinary 
sized  cakes.  Let  them  cook  on  one  side  before  turning  them,  and 
serve  them  hot  with  sugar  or  syrup. 


ARTICLE  XXVIII. 


French  BUGLOSS.  German 

Buglose.  Ochseiizunge. 

No.  269. — Bugloss  is  a  medical  and  pot  herb  plant.  It  is  used 
to  make  refreshing  broths  for  invalids  and  in  depuratives  and 
apozems.  The  flower  of  the  Bugloss  is  used  for  garnishing  salads 
and  cold  relishes. 

CULTUKE. 

No.  270. — Same  as  other  pot  herbs. 


XXIX. 


BURNET. 

Pimprenelle.  Pimpinelle. 

No.  271. — Is  a  hardy  perennial  plant.  The  leaves,  proceeding 
directly  from  the  root,  are  produced  on  long  stems  and  are  com- 
posed of  from  eleven  to  fifteen  smaller  leaves,  which  are  of  an  oval 
form,  regularly  toothed,  and  not  uniformly  smooth.  The  leaves 
have  a  warm,  piquant  taste,  and  are  used  in  salads  and  occasionally 
as  an  ingredient  in  soups.  The  roots,  after  being  dried  and  pul- 
verized, are  used  in  cases  of  internal  hemorrhage.  There  are  three 
varieties — the  hairy  leaved,  the  large  seeded,  and  the  smooth  leaved 
Burnet. 

CULTURE. 

No.  272. — Same  as  other  herbs. 


60  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


xxx, 


French  CABBAGE.  German 

Choux  pomme.  Kopf  kohl. 

No.  273. — The  Cabbage  is  a  biennial  plant  and  is  propagated  from 
seed  sown  annually.  Cabbage  is  a  plant  extensively  used  and  is 
prepared  in  various  ways.  It  is  very  nutritious  and  there  are  many 
varieties.  The  white,  the  green  and  the  red  may  be  had  all  the 
year  round.  The  cauliflower,  brocoli,  Brussels  sprouts  and  kale  all 
belong  to  the  Cabbage  family.  Cabbage  should  be  well  cooked, 
otherwise  it  will  cause  indigestion.  In  boiling  Cabbage,  if  the  water 
is  changed,  it  will  remove  that  strong  odor  disliked  by  many.  To 
preserve  Cabbage  during  winter,  pull  them  on  a  dry  day  and  turn 
them  over  on  their  heads  for  a  few  hours  so  as  to  let  them  drain. 
Set  them  in  a  cool  cellar  or  bury  them  with  their  heads  down  in 
long  trenches  in  a  dry  situation.  In  the  Middle  States  bury  the 
heads  and  parts  of  the  stump  in  the  open  ground,  placing  over  them 
a  light  covering  of  straw  or  boards  to  protect  them  from  severe 
weather.  The  Savoy  Cabbage  is  the  best  of  the  white  sorts.  The 
red  Cabbage  is  formed  the  same  as  the  other  Cabbages,  and  only 
differs  from  them  in  color,  and  is  preferred  by  many  to  the  other 
sorts.  It  is  best  in  the  fall  and  throughout  winter  and  keeps  well, 
but  the  outer  leaves  must  be  occasionally  removed,  or  else  they 
will  decay. 

CULTURE. 

No.  274. — For  the  successful  culture  of  Cabbage  the  very  best 
quality  of  seed  must  be  used.  A  heavy  moist  and  fresh  loam  is  most 
suitable,  and  should  be  highly  manured,  as  well  as  deeply  worked1. 
The  early  sorts  should  be  sown  very  early  in  hot  beds,  hardened 
off  and  transplanted  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  apart,  early  in  the 
spring.  In  the  South,  sow  them  from  the  middle  of  September  to 
the  middle  of  October,  and  transplant  into  cold  frames,  to  preserve 
them  through  the  winter,  setting  them  into  open  ground  as  early 
as  possible.  The  late  autumn  and  winter  varieties  may  be  sown 
from  the  middle  to  the  last  of  spring,  and  transplanted  when  about 
six  inches  high,  three  feet  apart  each  wa.y.  Shade  and  water  the 
late  sowings  in  dry  weather  to  get  them  up.  It  is  important  that 
the  plants  should  stand  thinly  in  the  seed  bed,  or  they  will  run  up 
weak  and  slender,  and  be  liable  to  make  long  stumps.  In 
transplanting  they  must  be  set  in  the  ground  up  to  the  first  leaf, 
no  matter  how  long  the  stem  may  be.  Cabbages  should  be  hoed 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  61 

every  week,  and  the  ground  stirred  deeper  as  they  advance  in 
growth,  throwing  up  a  little  earth  to  the  plant  each  time,  until  they 
begin  to  head,  when  they  should  be  thoroughly  cultivated  and  left 
to  mature.  Loosening  the  roots  will  often  retard  the  bursting  of 
full  grown  heads. 

EARLY  JEESEY  WAKEFIELD. 

No.  275. — The  heads  are  very  compact,  of  medium  size,  conical 
and  early,  as  well  as  sure  as  a  heading  sort. 

EARLY  ETAMPES. 

No.  276. — This  matures  nearly  or  quite  as  early  as  the  Jersey 
Wakefield,  but  is  not  as  pointed.  It  forms  small,  compact  heads- 
as  early  as  the  earliest,  and  is  of  excellent  quality. 

EARLY   YORK. 

No.  277. — A  very  valuable  early  variety,  with  small,  heart-shaped, 
firm  and  tender  heads,  of  a  very  dwarf  growth. 

EARLY  LARGE  YORK. 

No.  278. — It  succeeds  the  Ea*ly  York  and  is  equally  desirable. 
It  is  of  larger  size,  more  robust,  and  bears  the  head  better. 

EARLY    SUGAR    LOAF. 

No.  279. — A  very  compact  growing  variety.  The  plants  may  set 
as  close  as  sixteen  inches  apart.  It  is  more  affected  by  the  heat 
than  most  of  the  early  varieties. 

LITTLE   DIXIE. 

No.  280. — The  heads  are  small,  very  hard  and  of  very  fine  flavor. 
The  plant  is  small  but  vigorous. 

HENDERSON  EARLY   SUMMER. 

No.  281. — This  is  the  earliest  large  heading  Cabbage  grown.  It 
is  so  compact  that  it  may  set  as  close  as  the  smaller  sorts.  The 
heads  are  large,  flat  or  slightly  conical.  They  keep  longer  without 
bursting  than  most  of  the  other  sorts. 


62  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EARLY  FLAT  DUTCH. 

No.  282. — The  favorite  second  early  sort.  The  heads  are  large 
and  solid,  broad  and  roundish,  very  tender,  fine  grained  and  of  the 
best  flavor,  and  are  also  well  adapted  for  second  crop  for  fall  or 
winter  use. 

EARLY  DWARF,    FLAT  DUTCH. 

No.  283. — An  excellent  second  early  variety,  which  does  particu- 
larly well  in  the  Southern  States.  The  heads  are  of  medium  size, 
solid  and  flat.  It  grows  slow  on  the  stump  and  is  of  good  flavor. 

EARLY   WINNINGSTADT. 

No.  284. — This  is  one  of  the  best  for  general  use,  being  a  very 
sure  header,  and  will  grow  a  hard  head  under  circumstances  where 
most  kinds  would  fail.  The  heads  are  regular,  conical  shaped  and 
very  hard.  It  keeps  well  both  in  summer  and  winter. 

EARLY   BLEICHFIELD   GIANT. 

No.  285. — This  is  a  new  German  variety  of  Cabbage  that  has 
been  highly  recommended  wherever  tried,  and  is  worthy  of  exten- 
sive cultivation.  It  is  short  stenvned,  and  is  a  reliable  and  very 
solid  header  of  the  highest  quality. 

FILDER   KRAUT. 

No.  286. — This  is  similar  to  the  Winningstadt,  but  larger  and 
more  pointed.  It  is  highly  esteemed  for  making  kraut,  and  is  good 
either  for  the  first  or  second  crop. 

DRUMHEAD    SHORT    STEM. 

No.  287. — This  is  an  excellent  second  early  sort  and  is  particu- 
larly recommended  for  the  South,  as  it  withstands  the  heat  well. 
It  is  a  sure  header.  The  heads  are  low  on  the  stump,  being  com- 
pact and  solid. 

EARLY  LARGE   SCHWEINFURT. 

No.  288. — It  forms  a  very  large  showy  head  of  excellent  quality, 
but  does  not  stand  the  heat  well.  When  grown  in  perfection  it  is 
one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  second  early  sorts. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  63 

IMPERIAL  FRENCH  OX  HEART. 

No.  289. — This  grows  low  on  the  stump.  The  heads  are  very 
close  and  firm  and  of  a  yellowish  green  color. 

RED   DUTCH,    FOR   PICKLING. 

No.  290. — This  is  excellent  for  pickling  or  eating  raw.  It  forms 
very  hard  oblong  heads,  round  at  the  top  and  of  a  dark  or  purple 
color. 

FINE   BLOOD   RED. 

No.  291. — A  Cabbage  of  a  remarkably  deep  blood  red  color  and 
a  great  favorite. 

MARBLEHEAD. 

No.  292. — It  is  characterized  by  its  sweetness  and  delicacy  of 
flavor  and  by  its  reliability  in  forming  a  large  head.  It  is  very 
hardy  and  will  endure  the  cold  of  an  extreme  northern  climate. 

LATE  FLAT  DUTCH. 

No.  293. — This  is  a  low  growing  variety,  with  large  heads  of  a 
bluish  green  color;  round,  solid,  broad  and  flat  on  the  top.  It  is 
often  tinted  with  red  and  brown.  An  excellent  fall  and  winter 
variety  and  a  good  keeper. 

LARGE   DRUMHEAD. 

No.  294. — The  drumhead  Cabbage  is  a  large  fall  or  winter  variety, 
with  a  broad,  flat,  round  head  and  short  stump.  It  is  tender  and 
of  good  flavor  and  is  an  excellent  keeper. 

MARBLEHEAD   MAMMOTH   DRUMHEAD. 

No.  295. — The  largest  Cabbage  known,  weighing,  under  good 
cultivation,  from  thirty  to  fifty  pounds  each. 

GREEN    GLAZED. 

No.  296. — A  standard  late  variety  in  the  South,  not  being  affected 
by  the  heat.  The  heads  are  large  but  rather  loose  and  open.  It 
is  very  desirable  on  account  of  its  immunity  from  the  attacks  of 
insects. 


64  HARDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EARLY  DWARF  ULM  SAVOY. 
No.  297. — Tliis  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  sweetest  of  the  Savov 

*/ 

Cabbages,  with  small,  round  and  solid  heads.  The  leaves  are 
small,  thick,  fleshy  and  of  a  fine  deep  green  color,  and  of  most 
excellent  quality. 

GREEN   GLOBE   SAVOY. 

No.  298. — This  does  not  make  a  firm  head,  but  the  whole  of  it, 
being  very  tender  and  of  pleasant  flavor,  is  used  for  cooking.  The 
leaves  are  wrinkled  and  dark  green.  It  is  very  hardy,  being 
improved  by  frost. 

AMERICAN   SAVOY. 

No.  299. — This  closely  approaches  the  cauliflower  in  its  delicacy 
and  delicious  flavor,  and  is  the  best  of  all  the  Savoys.  It  has  a 
short  stump  and  grows  to  a  large  size,  being  compact  and  solid, 
and  is  a  sure  header. 

DRUMHEAD   SAVOY. 

No.  300. — This  grows  to  a  large  size,  with  heads  that  are  nearly 
round,  but  a  little  flattened  on  top.  Color,  dark  green. 

BOILED   CABBAGE. 

No.  301. — Wash  and  clean  two  heads  of  Cabbage.  Then  cut 
them  in  quarters,  cutting  out  the  stalks,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  boiling  water  on  a  brisk  fire,  to  which  add  a  piece  of  bacon  or 
salt  pork  (the  bacon  or  pork  having  been  parboiled  for  five 
minutes) .  When  the  Cabbage  is  well  cooked  drain  it  on  a  colander 
and  put  the  Cabbage  into  a  saucepan,  season  it  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Serve  with  the  bacon  or  pork  nicely  trimmed. 

NOTE. — If  the  Cabbage  is  used  as  a  plain  vegetable,  add  a  piece  of  butter.    Pig's  jowl  or  corned 
beef  may  be  cooked  with  the  Cabbage  in  the  same  way. 

CABBAGE  WITH   POTATOES,  FLAMANDE. 

No.  302. — When  the  Cabbage  is  cooked,  as  in  No.  301,  drain  it 
on  a  colander,  chop  it  fine,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  one 
quarter  of  its  quantity  of  mashed  potatoes.  Mix  the  whole  well 
together  and  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  thickened  veal  gravy  and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 

BRAIZED   CABBAGE,  FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  303. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage,  cut  them  into 
quarters  and  parboil  them  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  immerse  them 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE,  65 

in  cold  water,  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  and  cut  out  the  stalks.  After 
this  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  roll  each  quarter 
together,  covering  each  one  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  which  must 
be  tied  on  with  a  string.  Line  the  bottom  of  a  deep,  flat  saucepan, 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Slice  one  carrot  and  one  onion  fine, 
and  place  them  on  the  pork,  adding  a  few  grains  of  pepper  and 
cloves,  a  bay  leaf,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  sprig  of 
thyme.  Place  the  Cabbage  on  top  of  this,  and  then  moisten  it  all 
witli  sufficient  broth  to  cover  it.  Put  the  cover  on  the  pan  and 
place  it  on  the  fire  to  boil.  When  it  boils,  set  it  on  the  side  of  the 
fire  to  simmer  slowly.  When  it  is  all  thoroughly  cooked,  take  the 
Cabbage  out,  remove  the  string  and  pork,  and  put  the  Cabbage  in 
another  flat  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  Then  strain  the  gravy  to 
take  off  the  grease,  and  add  three  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce  to 
reduce  it  to  its  consistency.  When  it  is  ready  to  serve,  dish  up  the 
Cabbage  and  pour  the  sauce  over  it. 

CABBAGE,  GERMAN  STYLE. 

No.  304. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage.  Cut  out  the 
stalks  and  cut  the  leaves  in  shreds.  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  finely 
chopped  onions  and  four  ounces  of  butter  or  lard.  Fry  them  lightly, 
not  letting  them  get  brown.  Then  add  the  Cabbage  and  season  it 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  on  the  lid  and  cook  slowly  for  twenty 
minutes,  stirring  the  Cabbage  occasionally,  and  then  add  a  wine- 
glassful  of  vinegar.  When  the  moisture  is  reduced,  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  topping  from  the  stock-pot  to  nourish  the  Cabbage. 
Let  it  cook  until  thoroughly  done. 

CABBAGE  WITH   BACON,  FAMILY  STYLE. 

No.  305. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage,  quarter  them 
and  remove  the  thickest  part  of  the  stalk.  Put  the  Cabbage  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  parboiled  bacon  or  salt  pork,  and  half  a 
dozen  sausages.  Add  to  this  two  carrots,  three  onions  (each  gar- 
nished with  four  cloves),  and  a  faggot  composed  of  parsley,  celery, 
a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  one  bay  leaf.  Cover  it  all  with  boiling  water 
and  season  with  salt.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  to  boil,  then 
cover  it  and  let  it  boil  slowly  until  the  Cabbage  is  thoroughly  cooked. 
Then  remove  the  faggot  and  the  onions.  When  it  is  ready  to  serve, 
put  the  Cabbage  on  a  dish,  with  the  bacon  on  top,  garnish  it  with 
the  sausages  and  carrots  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  pour  a  little  of  the 
gravy  over  it. 
5 


66  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

STUFFED  CABBAGE. 

No.  306. — Trim  off  the  first  outer  leaves  of  two  middle-sized  solid 
heads  of  Cabbage.  Then  parboil  the  Cabbages  for  twenty  minutes, 
after  which  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
Then  cut  out  the  stalk  and  turn  the  leaves  carefully  out  from  the 
center.  Have  a  stuffing  prepared,  composed  of  two  pounds  of 
sausage  meat  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  spices,  with  which  add 
some  cooked  fine  herbs,  the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped 
fine,  and  two  dozen  roasted  chestnuts.  Put  this  stuffing  into  the 
center  of  the  Cabbages  and  replace  the  leaves  so  as  to  form  the 
shape  of  the  Cabbage.  Cover  the  opening  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat 
pork  and  tie  up  the  Cabbages  with  a  string  so  that  they  may  retain 
their  shape.  Have  a  saucepan  large  enough  to  hold  the  Cabbage, 
and  line  it  with  thin  slices  of  pork.  Put  the  Cabbages  into  the 
saucepan,  leaving  the  opening  on  top.  Garnish  them  with  one  sliced 
carrot,  two  whole  onions  (into  which  stick  half  a  dozen  cloves),  a 
faggot  of  parsley,  with  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  one  bay  leaf.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  them  with  broth  and  set  the  pan  on 
the  fire  to  boil.  Then  put  on  the  lid  and  let  it  cook  slowly  until  the 
Cabbages  are  thoroughly  done.  After  which  take  out  the  Cabbages 
carefully,  remove  the  string  and  dish  up  the  Cabbages.  Strain  the 
gravy  into  another  saucepan,  take  off  the  grease,  reduce  and  thicken 
it  lightly,  and  when  ready  to  serve  pour  the  gravy  over  the  Cabbage. 

STUFFED   CABBAGE,  HUNTERS'   STYLE. 

No.  307. — Prepare  two  heads  of  Cabbage  the  same  as  in  No.  306, 
and  fill  the  center  with  small  sausages  prepared  in  chipolata  style, 
roast  chestnuts  and  some  boned  reed  birds.  Arrange  the  leaves  of 
the  Cabbage  and  finish  them  as  in  No.  306.  Put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan, lined  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  and  garnish  them  with  two 
carrots,  two  onions,  a  faggot  of  parsley,  and  some  trimmings  of  ham 
and  veal.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  broth  to 
cover.  Put  on  the  lid  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until  the  Cabbages 
are  well  cooked  and  glazed.  Then  take  out  the  Cabbages,  remove 
the  strings  and  dish  them  up.  Strain  the  gravy  into  another  sauce- 
pan, remove  the  grease,  and  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce, 
reducing  this  to  its  consistency.  Cook  some  marrow,  separately, 
cut  it  into  slices,  and  add  it  to  the  sauce  which  is  served  with  the 


Cabbage. 


CABBAGE,  BISMARCK   STYLE. 


No.  308. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage,  quarter  them 
and  cut  off  the  thickest  part  of  the  stalk,  parboil  them  for  ten 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  67 

minutes,  and  immerse  them  in  cold  water.  Press  each  quarter  in 
your  hand  so  as  to  squeeze  out  the  water,  then  tie  each  one  with  a 
string,  so  that  they  may  keep  their  shape.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  a  piece  of  butter,  two  dozen 
small  onions,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished  with  bay  leaves, 
thyme,  and  a  few  grains  of  pepper.  Moisten  them  with  broth  to 
cover,  letting  them  cook  slowly.  When  the  Cabbages  are  nearly 
cooked,  add  one  dozen  small  sausages,  and  when  thoroughly  cooked, 
take  out  the  Cabbages  and  dish  them  up  on  pieces  of  toast,  with 
the  onions  and  sausages  around  the  Cabbages.  Strain  the  gravy  into 
another  saucepan,  remove  the  grease,  then  reduce  and  thicken  the 
gravy  lightly  and  pour  it  over  the  Cabbages. 

CABBAGE  WITH   CREAM. 

No.  309. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage,  quarter  them 
and  remove  the  stalks.  Cook  them  in  water  lightly  salted,  and  when 
cooked  drain  them  and  place  them  upon  a  chopping-board  and  chop 
them  finely.  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter,  and  when  it  is 
melted  add  the  Cabbage.  Season  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 
Fry  lightly  for  ten  minutes,  not  letting  the  Cabbage  get  scorched. 
Then  add  one  pint  of  cream,  reducing  it  on  a  brisk  fire.  Before 
serving  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

STEWED   CABBAGE,  SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  310. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage,  quarter  them, 
remove  the  stalks  and  cut  the  leaves  into  fine  shreds.  Parboil  them 
for  five  minutes  and  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  then  drain  and 
press  them  dry.  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter,  and  when 
melted  add  the  Cabbages.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  simmer, 
to  reduce  the  moisture.  Prepare  separately,  and  put  into  a  saucepan 
one  sliced  carrot,  one  sliced  onion  and  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished 
witli  a  sprig  of  thyme,  one  bay  leaf,  three  cloves,  and  two  cloves  of 
garlic.  Fry  them  lightly  in  some  clarified  butter,  to  which  add  one 
quart  of  broth  and  a  wine-glassful  of  Maderia  wine.  Let  this  cook 
until  it  is  reduced  three-quarters.  Strain  the  gravy  and  remove 
the  grease,  adding  the  gravy  to  the  Cabbage,  after  the  moisture  of 
the  latter  has  been  reduced.  Let  it  simmer  until  the  Cabbage  is 
tender  and  nicely  glazed.  Before  serving  drain  off  the  butter,  dish 
up  the  Cabbage,  and  garnish  it  with  glazed  chestnuts  and  fried 
sausages.  Serve  separately,  a  reduced  Espagnole  sauce. 


68  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CABBAGE  WITH  QUAILS  OR  PARTRIDGES. 

No.  311. — Trim  and  wash  four  heads  of  Cabbage,  quarter  them 
and  cut  out  the  stalks.  Parboil  the  Cabbages  in  water,  lightly 
salted,  until  they  are  three-quarters  cooked  and  then  drain  them  in 
a  colander,  pressing  out  the  water.  After  this  spread  them  on  a 
table  and  cut  them  coarsely,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and 
nutmeg. 

Dress  four  partridges,  or  one  dozen  quails,  as  you  would  for 
roasting.  Parboil  them  for  two  minutes,  then  drain  and  wash 
them  in  cold  water. 

Now  line  a  saucepan  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Put  a  layer  of 
Cabbage  in  the  bottom  and  around  the  sides  of  the  saucepan.  Then 
arrange  on  this  six  quails,  four  young  carrots  and  two  whole  onions, 
into  which  stick  six  cloves.  Cover  this  with  a  layer  of  Cabbage. 
Then  lay  on  this  the  other  quails,  one-half  a  pound  of  parboiled 
bacon  and  half  a  dozen  small  smoked  sausages.  Cover  this  with 
the  rest  of  the  Cabbage.  Put  on  this  a  thin  layer  of  sliced  pork 
and  moisten  with  drippings  of  the  stock  broth.  Then  put  on  a  but- 
tered paper  cover,  and  on  this  the  lid  of  the  saucepan.  Set  it  on 
the  fire,  and,  as  soon  as  it  boils,  set  it  on  the  side  and  let  it  cook 
slowlv  for  one  and  a  half  hours,  after  which  take  off  the  buttered 
paper  and  pork.  Then  remove  the  Cabbage  and  put  it  in  a  colan- 
der to  drain,  keeping  the  quails,  sausages,  bacon  and  carrots  sepa- 
rate. Dish  up  the  Cabbage  with  the  quails,  placing  the  latter  so 
that  only  their  breasts  are  exposed.  Cut  the  bacon  and  carrots  in 
slices  and  split  the  sausages  in  half  and  garnish  the  Cabbage  and 
quails  with  them. 

HOT  SLAW. 

No.  312. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage.  Cut  them  in 
quarters  and  cut  out  the  stalks,  then  cut  the  leaves  into  fine  shreds. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  pound  of 
fat  pork  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  fry  it  until  nicely  browned.  Add 
to  this  a  wine-glassful  of  vinegar  and  the  Cabbage,  and  cover  the 
saucepan  immediately.  Let  it  simmer  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
Serve  as  a  vegetable  or  a  garniture  for  roast  pork. 

COLD  SLAW. 

No.  313. — Cut  the  leaves  of  a  head  of  Cabbage  into  fine  shreds, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar. 

NOTE.— Cold  Slaw  is  generally  served  with  oysters.  A  very  nice  way  is  to  mix  red  and  white 
cabbage  and  have  a  cream  dressing  for  it, 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  69 

CABBAGE   SALAD. 

No.  314. — Trim  and  wash  one  head  of  Cabbage.  Quarter  it  and 
remove  the  stalks  and  the  hard  rib  of  the  leaves.  Then  cut  the 
leaves  into  fine  shreds  and  parboil  them  for  five  minutes.  Then 
immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Put  them 
in  a  salad  bowl,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  mix- 
ing: the  whole  well  together. 

Red  Cabbage  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way,  or  it  may  be 
mixed  with  white,  using  half  of  each  kind,  and  dressed  with  a  mus- 
tard dressing.  Garnish  with  pickled  beets  and  hard-boiled  eggs. 

CABBAGE  SALAD,  BOSTON  STYLE. 

No.  315. — Cut  the  Cabbage  leaves  into  fine  shreds.  Put  them  in 
a  bowl  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  into  a  saucepan  a 
wine-glassful  of  vinegar  and  a  piece  of  butter,  and  set  it  on  the  fire 
to  boil.  Then  pour  the  hot  vinegar  over  the  Cabbage  and  cover  the 
bowl.  When  cold,  add  a  cupful  of  cream  and  mix  the  whole  well 
together.  Arrange  it  in  the  salad  bowl  and  garnish  with  eggs. 

CABBAGE   SALAD  WITH   CREAM,  AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  316. — Cut  the  hearts  of  two  heads  of  Cabbage  into  fine  shreds. 
Put  into  a  saucepan  a  glass  of  white  wine  vinegar,  and  when  it  boils, 
add  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  enough  to  season  the 
Cabbage,  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  ancl  then  the  Cabbage. 
Let  it  get  thoroughly  warm,  then  put  it  into  an  earthen  bowl. 
Dilute  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs  in  a  little  cold  milk,  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  to  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  while  stirring 
it.  As  soon  as  it  thickens,  take  it  off  of  the  fire,  pour  it  over  the 
Cabbage,  and  mix  it  well.  Cover  the  bowl,  and  when  cold  put  it 
into  a  salad  bowl.  Dress  it  in  its  proper  shape,  and  garnish  with 
beets  and  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  quarters. 

RED   CABBAGE   SALAD. 

No.  317. — Cut  the  leaves  of  a  small  head  of  red  Cabbage  into  fine 
shreds.  Wash  them  in  cold  water,  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  and 
put  them  into  a  salad  bowl  with  six  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  up 
finely.  Make  a  dressing  of  salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar,  mustard,  and  a 
pinch  of  sugar.  Pour  it  over  the  Cabbage  and  mix  the  whole  well 
together.  Arrange  it  properly,  and  garnish  it  with  hard-boiled  eggs, 
cut  in  quarters.  If  oil  is  not  desired,  add  clarified  butter. 


70  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

RED  CABBAGE,  GERMAN  STYLE. 

No.  318. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  Cabbage,  cut  out  the 
stalks,  and  cut  the  leaves  into  fine  shreds.  Put  into  a  saucepan  four 
ounces  of  butter,  with  two  finely-chopped  onions.  Fry  them  lightly 
and  add  the  Cabbage.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  the 
saucepan,  and  let  it  cook  slowly  until  the  moisture  is  reduced  Then 
add  a  wine-glassful  of  vinegar  and  half  a  bottle  of  red  wine.  Let  it 
cook  until  the  moisture  is  nearly  reduced,  when  the  Cabbage  should 
be  well  cooked. 

RED   CABBAGE,  HOLLAND  A ISE    STYLE. 

No.  319. — Trim  and  wash  two  heads  of  red  Cabbage,  cut  them 
into  quarters,  remove  the  stalks  and  cut  the  leaves  into  fine  shreds. 
Parboil  them  for  five  minutes  and  then  drain  them.  Put  into  a 
saucepan  a  piece  of  butter  with  two  finely-chopped  onions.  Fry 
them  lightly,  and  add  the  Cabbage,  with  half  a  do/en  peeled,  sliced 
apples.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little  fine  sugar,  and  a  faggot 
of  parsley  well  garnished.  Let  them  simmer  slowly  for  one  hour, 
then  add  a  large  glassful  of  Burgundy  wine,  and  let  them  cook 
half  an  hour  longer.  When  ready  to  serve,  take  out  the  faggot, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  and  toss  well  together. 

RED   CABBAGE,  VALENCIENNE   STYLE. 

No.  320. — Cut  into  small  pieces  two  pounds  of  salt  pork  or  bacon, 
and  fry  them  lightly.  To  this  add  two  heads  of  red  Cabbage,  cut 
into  fine  shreds.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  moisten 
with  half  a  pint  of  broth  and  half  a  glassful  of  Kirschwasser.  Then 
lay  half  a  dozen  sliced  and  peeled  apples  on  top  of  the  Cabbage. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  cook  slowly  for  one  and  a  half 
hours,  without  stirring  them,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  the 
Cabbage  adhere  to  the  bottom.  When  ready  to  serve,  toss  it  all 

o  *j  * 

well  together  and  garnish  with  small,  fried  sausages. 

CABBAGE   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  321.— The  Cabbage  as  prepared  in  Nos.  302,  303,  304,  309, 
and  318,  can  be  used  for  garniture,  as  may  be  required.  They  are 
generally  served  with  sucking  pigs,  roast  pork,  boar,  geese,  etc. 

CABBAGE   SOUP. 

No.  322. — Trim  the  outer  leaves  of  two  heads  of  young  Cabbage, 
cut  the  heads  into  quarters,  remove  the  stalks,  and  wash  the  heads 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  71 

in  cold  water.  Parboil  them  for  fifteen  minutes  with  one  pound  of 
bacon  or  salt  pork.  Immerse  them  in  cold  water,  drain  them  in  a 
colander,  and  then  press  the  Cabbages  dry.  Put  into  a  saucepan 
two  pounds  of  beef  from  the  breast  bone  or  the  rump,  and  arrange 
the  cabbages  around  it.  Add  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished'with  a 
head  of  celery,  two  leeks  and  one  bay  leaf,  two  onions,  into  which 
stick  six  cloves,  two  carrots,  and  the  bacon  or  pork.  Add  to  this 
one  gallon  of  cold  water,  then  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil.  Skim  it  and 
season  lightly  with  salt,  letting  it  boil  slowly  for  three  hours.  Then 
take  out  the  Cabbages  and  cut  them  in  sm-tll  pieces.  Place  them 
in  a  soup  tureen  with  pieces  of  toasted  French  bread,  cut  to  the 
size  of  half  a  dollar.  Strain  the  broth,  season  to  taste,  and  pour  it 
into  the  tureen.  Serve  hot. 

CABBAGE  SEEVED  WITH  BROTH,  GARBURE. 

No.  323. — Trim  and  wash  two  young  heads  of  Cabbage,  cut  them 
in  half  and  remove  the  stalks.  Parboil  them  in  water,  lightly  salted, 
until  three-quarters  cooked.  Then  drain  them,  separate  the  leaves, 
and  place  a  layer  of  them  in  a  silver  or  earthen  baking  dish.  Put 
on  this  a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  Gruyere  or  Swiss  cheese,  and  over 
the  cheese  put  thin  slices  of  bread,  alternating  this  way  until  the 
dish  is  full,  seasoning  each  layer  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little 
nutmeg.  Moisten  it  to  cover  with  good  beef  broth,  and  set  it  in 
an  oven  to  gratinate  for  an  hour.  Serve  with  a  soup  tureen  of  good 
beef  broth. 

PICKLED   CABBAGE. 

No.  324. — Trim  the  outer  leaves  of  two  heads  of  Cabbage,  cut 
them  into  quarters  and  remove  the  stalks.-  Cut  the  tender  leaves 
into  fine  shreds  and  put  them  into  an  earthen  bowl,  with  half  a 
pound  of  fine  salt  to  two  pounds  of  Cabbage,  and  mix  well.  After 
three  days  drain  off  the  liquid,  and  put  the  Cabbage  into  glass  jars, 
filling  them  three-quarters  full.  Add  a  few  grains  of  pepper  and 
two  bay  leaves  to  each  jar  holding  two  quarts.  Pour  into  each  jar 
enough  of  the  best  wine  vinegar  to  cover  thd  Cabbage  well.  Close 
the  jars  tight  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place.  After  using,  be  sure 
to  tightly  cover  each  jar. 

PICKLED   RED    CABBAGE,  ENGLISH   STYLE. 

No.  325  — Prepare  the  red  Cabbage  the  same  as  in  No.  324.  When 
putting  the  Cabbage  in  the  jar,  add  some  small,  peeled  and  par- 
boiled onions,  a  few  cloves,  some  small  green  peppers,  and  a  little 
ginger. 


72  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKEEY. 

SAUEB  KRAUT. 

No.  326. — Saner  Kraut  is  a  German  preparation  and  is  highly 
esteemed  by  them,  when  well  prepared.  It  is  made  in  large  quanti- 
ties in  this  country,  especially  in  the  Northern  States.  It  is  seldom 
made  in  private  families  here,  as  it  can  be  so  readily  procured  of 
dealers  at  all  times.  To  make  good  Sauer  Kraut,  only  the  besb  of 
cabbage  heads  should  be  used.  When  prepared  to  keep  for  a 
certain  length  of  time,  use  new  barrels,  or  those  which  have  con- 
tained vinegar  or  white  wine.  Sauer  Kraut  is  cabbage  cut  into  fine 
shreds,  pickled  in  salt,  and  made  to  ferment  in  the  barrel.  To  keep 
it  well  preserved,  it  must  be  kept  in  a  cool  and  even  temperature, 
and  must  be  kept  well  pressed  under  the  brine.  It  is  an  agreeable 
vegetable  to  be  eaten  with  salted  meats. 

SAUEE   KRAUT,  HOW   TO    MAKE. 

No.  327. — Take  a  barrel  and  knock  out  the  head.  Then  set  it  in 
a  stationary  place  half  a  foot  from  the  ground,  in  a  cool  and  even 
temperature.  Bore  a  hole  in  the  barrel,  about  two  inches  from  the 
bottom,  and  put  therein  a  wooden  faucet  with  a  strainer  inside  of 
the  barrel.  Now  select  as  many  cabbages  as  are  needed  to  fill  the 
barrel,  using  only  the  best,  solid  white  sorts  procurable.  Trim  off 
the  green  leaves  and  cut  out  the  stalks,  then  cut  the  cabbage  into 
fine,  short  shreds,  using  a  slide-board  which  has  three  or  four 
knives,  which  are  made  for  such  a  purpose.  Place  the  slide-board 
over  a  wooden  tub  to  receive  the  cabbage  when  it  is  cut  up.  Put  a 
layer  of  salt  in  the  bottom  of  the  barrel,  and  then  a  layer  of  cabbage 
two  inches  thick.  Add  salt  again,  then  cabbage,  and  thus  alternate 
until  the  barrel  is  full.  To  every  thirty  pounds  of  cabbage  use  one 
and  a  half  pounds  of  fine  salt. 

NOTE. — A  few  bay  leaves,  carraway  or  anise  seed,  may  be  added  with  the  layers  of  cabbage,  but 
should  be  used  only  with  moderation. 

When  the  barrel  is  full,  cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  cabbage 
leaves,  and  spread  a  linen  cloth  over  this,  placing  on  top  of  the 
cloth  a  wooden  cover,  made  to  go  inside  the  barrel,  and  on  this 
cover  place  some  heavy  weight  that  will  press  the  cover  down  very 
tight.  Five  days  after  let  the  brine  run  off  and  add  the  same  quan- 
tity of  fresh  brine,  changing  it  once  every  sixth  day  until  the  brine 
has  been  changed  four  times,  or  until  the  brine  runs  clear  and 
without  odor.  To  keep  Kraut  from  moulding,  the  brine  must  always 
cover  the  cabbage.  Two  months  after  the  Kraut  is  first  put  in  the 
barrel  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  Care  must  be  taken  to  always  keep 
the  Kraut  covered  after  any  of  it  has  been  taken  from  the  barrel  for 
use. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  73 

SAUER  KRAUT,  HOW  TO  PEEP  ABE  FOR  COOKING. 

No.  328. — Before  cooking  the  Sauer  Kraut,  soak  it  in  fresh  cold 
water  for  two  hours.  If  it  has  a  strong  odor,  change  the  water. 
When  ready  for  cooking  drain  it. 

SAUER  KRAUT,  GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  329. — Prepare  three  pounds  of  Sauer  Kraut  as  in  No.  328. 
Chop  one  large  onion  fine  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  drippings  from  the  stock-pot  or  roast  meats.  Fry  it 
to  a  light  brown  and  then  add  the  Sauer  Kraut,  three  peeled  fine- 
sliced  apples,  one  tumblerful  of  white  wine  and  a  pint  of  broth. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  on  the  fire  for  two 
hours.  Then  sprinkle  two  soup  spoonfuls  of  flour  in  it,  mix  it  up 
well,  and  if  necessary  add  a  little  more  broth  and  let  it  simmer  for 
half  an  hour  longer.  When  ready,  serve  it  in  a  deep  dish  and 
garnish  with  pig's  jowl  or  fried  sausages. 

The  pig's  jowl  may  be  cooked  with  the  cabbage  or  separately. 

SAUER  KRAUT,  FRENCH  STYLE. 

No.  330. — Prepare  the  Sauer  Kraut  as  in  No.  329.  Add  to  it 
some  salted  or  pickled  spare-ribs  of  pork  and  one  smoked  sausHge. 
When  this  is  all  well  cooked,  dish  up  the  Sauer  Kraut  and  garnish 
it  with  the  spare-ribs  and  the  sausages  cut  in  slices.  Always  prepare 
more  than  is  required  for  one  meal.  What  is  left  can  be  set  aside 
in  a  cool  place,  and  when  warmed  over  two  or  three  days  after, 
it  will  be  relished  much  more  than  at  first. 

SAUER  KRAUT,  BAVARIAN   STYLE. 

No.  331. — When  the  Sauer  Kraut  is  prepared  for  cooking,  a.s  in 
No.  329,  add  to  it  two  pounds  of  fresh  pork  from  the  loin  or  leg. 
When  it  is  well  cooked  dish  it  up  with  the  pork.  Serve  separately 
a  dish  of  potato  balls  (Kartoffelshnitzhen),  poached  in  broth,  lightly 
salted.  Dish  these  up  with  fine  chopped  onions,  fried  in  clarified 
butter.  Put  the  latter  over  the  potato  balls. 

SAUER   KRAUT,  FLEMISH   STYLE. 

No.  332. — Prepare  the  Sauer  Kraut  as  in  No.  329.  When  it  is 
well  cooked,  drain  it  in  a  colander  and  put  the  Sauer  Kraut  into  a 
mould  to  fit  the  dish  intended  to  serve  it  on.  Press  it  into  the 


74  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

mould  solidlv  and  keep  it  warm  until  ready  to  serve.  Then  turn  it 
on  to  the  dish,  care  being  taken  to  keep  the  Kraut  well  together. 
Dish  on  top  of  it  a  salmis  of  snipss  or  partridges,  with  a  well-reduced 
sauce,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  toasted  bread,  cut  into  fancy  shapes 
and  buttered  with  lobster  butter,  into  which  add  a  little  puree  of 
anchovies. 

SAUER  KRAUT  BAKED,  DUFOUR. 

No.  333. — Cut  in  small  scallops  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked 
smoked  beef  tongue,  calf's  head,  mushrooms  and  breast  of  par- 
tridges. Add  to  this  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce.  Cook  the 
quantity  of  Sauer  Kraut  necessary,  as  in  No.  329,  and  when  cooked 
put  it  into  a  colander  to  drain  it  of  its  moisture.  Then  put  a  layer 
of  the  Kraut  into  a  baking  dish,  hollow  the  middle  and  add  the 
above  preparation.  Cover  this  with  the  rest  of  the  Sauer  Kraut, 
filling  the  dish  up  nicely.  Sprinkle  on  top  some  fresh  bread  crumbs 
and  some  butter,  divided  into  small  pieces.  Wipe  the  borders  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  nicely  browned. 

SAUER  KRAUT  BAKED  WITH  FILLET  OF  SOLES. 

No.  334. — Cook  the  quantity  of  Sauer  Kraut  necessary,  as  in  No. 
329.  Drain  it  in  a  colander  and  press  it  dry.  Then  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  (to  a  pound  of  Sauer  Kraut  add  half  a  pint  of  reduced 
cream  sauce),  with  four  ounces  of  lobster  butter.  Mix  this  well 
together  off  of  the  fire. 

Take  out  the  fillet  from  six  medium-sized  soles  (or  flounders). 
Kemove  the  skin  and  season  and  bread  them,  frying  them  in  hot 
lard.  Drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  let  them  get  cold. 

Place  a  layer  of  the  Kraut  in  a  baking  dish,  and  on  top  of  this  a 
layer  of  the  fried  fillet,  cut  in  scollops.  Alternate  thus  until  the 
dish  is  full  and  cover  the  top  with  Sauer  Kraut.  Sprinkle  on  this 
some  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  some  lobster  butter,  divided  into  small 
pieces.  Wipe  the  borders,  bake  in  an  oven,  and  serve  hot. 

SAUER   KRAUT  WITH   PARTRIDGES   OR   QUAIL. 

No.  335. — Cook  the  Sauer  Kraut  as  in  No.  329.  When  nearly 
done,  drain  off  the  moisture.  Have  ready  two  roasted  partridges,  or 
six  quails,  three-quarters  cooked.  Add  them  to  the  Sauer  Kraut 
and  cover  the  saucepan  tight.  Let  them  simmer  slowly  until  the 
birds  are  tender.  When  ready  to  serve,  dish  up  the  Sauer  Kraut, 
with  the  birds  nicely  arranged  on  top. 


THE    PHYSIOLOGY    OF    TASTE.  75 


ARTICLE  XXXI. 


CALABASH,  OR  COMMON  GOURDS. 

French  Ccrman 

Citrouille  on  Potiron.  Kurbis. 

No.  336. — The  Calabash  is  of  the  same  family  as  the  squash  and 
pumpkin.  The  fruit,  when  young,  is  hairy  on  the  outside,  and  quite 
soft  and  tender.  The  surface,  however,  becomes  hard,  smooth  and 
glossy  when  the  fruit  is  ripe.  The  fruit  is  only  fit  for  use  when 
young,  and  it  is  then  pickled  in  vinegar,  the  same  as  cucumbers. 
The  flesh,  when  fully  ripe,  is  worthless,  but  the  shells,  which  are 
hard,  light,  compact  and  very  strong,  are  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  baskets  and  for  many  ornamental  purposes.  There  are  four 
varieties:  the  Bottle  Gourd,  the  Hercules  Club,  the  Powder  Horn, 
and  the  Siphon  Gourd.  They  are  cultivated  iii  the  same  manner  as 
squash  or  pumpkins. 


ARTICLE:  XXXII. 


CALAMINT. 

Calantenl  ou  Calamus.  Kalaminth. 

No.  337. — Calamint  is  an  aromatic  root,  of  the  Oriis  variety, 
having  a  delicate,  violet  odor,  and  is  used  as  a  substitute  to  impart 
a  violet  flavor. 

To  make  the  flavor,  by  infusion,  cut  the  roots  in  small  pieces,  put 
them  in  a  bottle,  pour  alcohol  over  them,  and  then  cork  the  bottle 
tight.  Pastry  cooks  use  the  roots  for  flavoring  when  they  are  dried 
and  pulverized. 


ARTICLE   xxxni. 


CANTALOUPE  OR  PERSIAN  MELONS. 

Canted  up.  Melone. 

No.  338. — Cantaloupes  differ  remarkably  from  tho  common  varie- 
ties usually  cultivated.  They  are  destitute  of  the  thick,  hard  rind 
which  characterizes  the  common  melons  and  which  renders  so  large 
a  portion  of  the  melon  useless.  The  skin  of  the  Persian  Melon  is 


76  HAKDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

thin  and  delicate,  the  flesh  being  extremely  tender,  rich  and  sweet, 
flowing  copiously  with  a  cool  juice  that  renders  them  still  more 
grateful.  They  are  not  an  early  melon,  and  for  their  perfection 
require  a  long  and  warm  season. 

GERMEK. 

No.  339. — This  is  a  handsome,  large-sized  fruit,  with  a  deep  green 
skin,  closely  netted.  The  flesh  is  from  one  to  two  inches  deep,  and 
is  of  a  clear  green  color,  firm,  juicy,  and  highly  flavored.  It  is  an 
excellent  variety  and  an  abundant  bearer. 

GEREE. 

No.  340. — This  is  a  handsome,  green  fruit,  oval-shaped,  with  a 
short  stalk.  The  flesh  is  about  two  inches  thick,  of  a  bright  green 
color,  being  very  sweet  and  highly  flavored.  It  is  a  good  bearer, 
requiring  a  long,  warm  season. 

DAREE. 

No.  341. — This  resembles  the  Geree  in  shape.  The  flesh  is  white, 
thick  and  crisp,  melting  when  fully  ripened.  If  imperfectly  matured, 
it  is  generally  insipid,  but  always  remains  cool  and  pleasant. 

GREEN   HOOSAIXE. 

Xo.  342. — This  is  a  handsome,  egg-shaped  fruit.  When  unripe 
it  is  of  a  deep  green  color,  but  in  maturity  it  acquires  a  fine,  even, 
light  green,  regularly  netted  surface.  The  exposed  side  becomes 
rather  yellow  in  color.  The  flesh  has  a  pale  green  and  white  tint, 
and  is  tender  a  ad  delicate  and  full  of  highly  perfumed,  sweet  juice. 
It  is  a  hardy  variety,  of  great  excellence,  and  a  good  bearer. 

GREEN  VALENCIA. 

No.  343. — A  desirable  winter  variety,  of  much  excellence,  a  great 
bearer  and  very  hardy.  Though  not  rich  in  flavor,  it  is  firm, 
saccharine  and  juicy. 

ISPAHAN. 

No.  344. — This  is  said  to  be  the  most  delicate  of  all  Melons.  It 
is  egg-shaped,  weighing  from  six  to  eight  pounds.  The  skin  is 
nearly  smooth  and  of  a  deep  sulphur  yellow  color.  The  flesh,  which 
extends  nearly  half  way  to  the  center,  is  nearly  white  in  color  and 
is  crisp,  sugary  and  very  rich. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  77 

MELON   OF   KEISING. 

No.  345. — This  differs  from  the  sweet  Ispahan  in  being  a  closely 
netted  Melon,  egg-shaped,  and  regularly  and  handsomely  formed, 
though  extremely  delicate.  The  skin  is  of  a  pale  lemon  color,  and 
th-!  flesh  nearly  white  and  from  one  to  two  and  a  quarter  inches 
thick.  It  flows  copiously  with  juice,  and  is  sweet  and  high  flavored. 
The  rind  is  thin  but  firm. 

MELON   OF   SEEN. 

No.  346. — An  oval-shaped  Melon,  of  handsome  appearance,  with 
a  small  mamelon  at  the  apex.  The  surface  has  a  pale,  dusky  yellow 
color,  and  is  regularly  and  closely  netted,  except  the  mamelon. 
The  rind  is  very  thin,  and  the  flesh  is  from  an  inch  to  two  inches 
thick,  of  a  pale  green  color,  sometimes  becoming  reddish  towards 
the  center.  It  is  exceedingly  tender,  and  has  sweet  and  delicately 
perfumed  juice.  It  bears  well,  but  requires  a  long  season. 

HOW   TO   SERVE   CANTALOUPES. 

No.  347. — Cantaloupes  are  served  before  breakfast,  and  before 
dinner  as  a  relish,  or  after  dinner  as  a  dessert.  They  should  always 
be  kept  in  a  cool  place  an  hour  before  serving.  Select  a  Melon  not 
over  ripe,  cut  it  in  half  nnd  take  out  the  seeds.  Then  cut  it  in 
ordinary  sized  slices  and  pass  a  knife  under  the  flesh,  without 
detaching  it  altogether  from  the  rind.  Serve  it  on  a  napkin,  with 
salt  and  pepper. 

MELONS   PRESERVED   IN   CANS. 

No.  348. — All  of  the  varieties  of  Melons  can  be  preserved.  The 
best  are  preferred,  and  they  must  not  be  too  ripe.  Cut  the  Melons 
in  slices  and  remove  the  seeds  and  the  softest  part  of  the  Melon. 
Then  peel  the  outside  of  the  rind  and  cut  the  hard  part  of  the  Melon 
in  scallops,  parboil  them  until  tender  and  drain  them.  Put  them 
in  an  earthen  jar  and  cover  them  with  a  light  syrup  for  three  hours. 
Then  take  them  out,  arrange  them  in  quart  cans  and  cover  them 
with  a  vanilla  flavored  syrup  of  thirty-two  degrees.  Then  solder 
on  the  covers  and  boil  them  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  half  an  hour. 

PRESERVED   MELONS   IN   SYRUP. 

No.  349. — Select  Melons  that  are  not  too  ripe.  Cut  them  in 
slices,  remove  the  seeds  and  peel  off  the  rind.  Cut  the  slices  in 
three  or  four  pieces,  parboil  them  until  tender,  and  then  immerse 


78  HARDER1  S  AMERICAN   COOKERY. 

them  in  cold  water  for  two  hours.  Then  take  them  out,  trim  the 
pieces  of  Melon  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  jar.  Cover  them  with 
a  cold  syrup  at  fourteen  degrees  for  two  hours  and  then  drain  off 
the  syrup.  Cook  it  to  sixteen  degrees,  and  when  lukewarm  turn  it 
over  them  again.  Repeat  this  four  times,  twice  a  day.  The  fifth 
time  cook  the  syrup  to  thirty-two  degrees  and  put  in  the  Melon. 
Let  it  boil  up  once  and  then  let  it  stand  on  the  side  of  the  fire  for 
one  and  a  half  hours.  Then  take  it  off,  and  when  cool  put  them  in 
jars,  covered  tight,  and  set  them  in  a  cool  dry  place.  If,  after  a 
certain  time,  they  should  ferment,  boil  them  over  again. 


ARTICLE)    XXXIV. 


French  CAPERS.  German 

Cfipre.  Kaper. 

No.  350. — The  Caper  bush  grows  in  warm  climates.  .  The  young 
buds  are  picked  and  then  pickled  for  use.  They  are  preferred  when 
small,  and  of  a  bright  green  color.  They  have  a  warm,  aromatic 
taste,  and  are  used  in  sauces,  salads,  and  various  other  culinary 
preparations. 

CAPERS  PICKLED   IN   VINEGAR. 

No.  351. — Pick  out  small  Capers,  all  of  the  same  size,  as  they 
are  the  best.  Those  developed  are  not  fit  for  use.  Pick  off  the 
stems  and  put  the  Capers  in  jars  or  bottles,  and  cover  them  with 
cold,  boiled  vinegar.  A  sprig  of  Tarragon  in  each  bottle  will  afford 
an  excellent  flavor.  Keep  the  bottles  corked  tight,  and  in  three  or 
four  weeks  the  Capers  will  be  ready  for  use. 

CAPER   SAUCE. 

No  352. — This  is  simply  a  butter  sauce  with  Capers  added,  and 
is  generally  served  with  boiled  mutton  and  fish. 


ARTICLE:  xxxv. 


CAPILLARY  OR  VENUSHAIR. 

Capillaire.  Frauenhaar  syrup. 

No.  353. — There  are  three  varieties  —  the  white,  black,  and 
Canadian — the  latter  kind  being  used  most.  They  are  diuretic, 
stomachic,  and  principally  bechic.  The  Capillary  syrup  has  all  the 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  7£> 

virtue  of  the  plant,  and  is  used  by  pastry  cooks  for  Bavarian  creams, 
etc.  The  Capillary  syrup  and  the  syrup  of  marsh  mallow  have  the 
same  properties,  and  are  used  for  the  same  purposes. 

CAPILLARY    SYRUP. 

No.  35-1. — Take  seven  pounds  of  sugar  and  boil  it  to  a  light  syrup. 
When  it  is  boiling  hot  pour  it  over  six  ounces  of  Capillary.  Then 
cover  it  and  let  it  lay  until  next  day,  when  you  will  drain  off  the 
syrup,  boil  it  again  to  thirty-two  degrees,  and  then  pour  it  boiling 
hot  over  the  Capillary  again.  When  it  is  cold,  strain  it  and  put  it 
in  bottles. 

NOTE  —When  the  Capillary  is  boiled  with  the  syrup,  its  flavor  evaporates   somewhat,  and  leaves  a 
disagreeable  taste. 


ARTICLE;  XXXVI. 


French  CARAWAY.  German 

Carvi.  Kummel. 

No.  355. — Caraway  is  a  biennial  plant  of  the  parsley  family. 
The  seeds  have  an  aromatic  flavor  and  a  warm  pungent  taste. 
Caraway  is  cultivated  for  its  seeds,  which  are  used  by  bakers, 
confectioners,  and  distillers,  and  also  in  medicine — as  a  carminative. 

CULTURE. 

No.  356. — Sow  it  in  August,  and  the  plant  will  give  a  fair  crop  of 
seed  the  next  season.  Plant  it  in  drills  and  thin  it  to  six  inches 
apart. 


ARTICLE:  xxxvu. 


CARDOON. 

Car  don.  Kardon. 

No.  357. — There  are  two  kinds  01  Cardoons — the  Spanish  and  the 
ordinary — of  which  there  are  several  species — which  are  cultivated 
for  the  stems  and  midribs.  The  Spanish  variety  is  preferred,  as 
the  stems  are  thicker  than  the  ordinary,  the  latter  having  the 


80  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

flavor  of  artichokes.  It  is  a  vegetable  much  esteemed  in  Europe, 
though  seldom  used  in  this  country,  but  it  is  becoming  popular  here. 
The  flowers  are  gathered  and  dried  in  the  shade,  and  are  used  to 
coagulate  milk. 

CULTURE. 

No.  358. — Cardoon  is  grown  for  the  midribs  of  the  leaves,  which 
require  to  be  blanched  the  same  as  celery.  When  the  plants  are  to 
remain,  sow  them  early  in  spring,  in  drills  three  feet  apart  and  an 
inch  and  a  half  deep.  Then  thin  out  the  young  plants  to  a  foot 
apart  in  drills. 

LARGE   SPANISH. 

No.  359. — The  ribs  are  longer  than  in  the  ordinary  Cardoou,  and 
the  whole  plant  is  much  stronger.  It  runs  up  to  seed  quicker  than 
the  other  variety. 

THE   ORDINARY. 

No.  360. — This  is  of  a  shiny  green  color,  the  stems  growing  about 
five  feet  high.  Its  leaves  are  large  and  strong. 

ARTICHOKE   LEAVED. 

No.  361. — This  is  remarkable  for  its  strong  growth  and  the  thick- 
ness of  its  midribs,  which  are  almost  solid.  It  is  a  tender  and  fine 
variety. 

LARGE   TOURS   SOLID. 

No.  362. — The  midribs  are  large  and  solid,  yet  tender  and 
delicate.  Notwithstanding  the  inconvenience  arising  on  account  of 
its  numerous  and  rigid  spines,  it  is  considered  one  of  the  best  varie- 
ties. 

CARDOONS   WITH   MARROW. 

No.  363. — Take  six  white  and  solid  Cardoon  stems  (the  hard  and 
hollow  ones  are  of  no  use)  and  cut  them  four  inches  in  length.  As 
you  prepare  them  put  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water,  acidulated. 
Have  a  saucepanful  of  boiling  water  on  the  fire,  in  which  you  will 
put  the  juice  of  five  lemons.  Put  the  pieces  of  Cardoon  in  this 
water  and  parboil  them  until  you  can  peel  off  the  outer  surface 
easily.  Take  them  off'  of  the  fire  to  peel  and  trim  them,  adding 
sufficient  cold  water  to  allow  you  to  put  your  hand  in  the  water. 
Then  put  the  peeled  Cardoons  in  fresh  water  and  drain  them  on  a 
napkin.  Prepare  a  deep  flat  saucepan  lined  with  fine  slices  of  fat 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  81 

pork,  in  which  you  will  put  the  Cardoons.  Season  them  well  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  moisten  with  enough  broth  to 
cover  them.  Add  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  cover  the  Cardoons 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Put  on  the  lid  and  let  them  boil,  after 
which  let  them  cook  slowly.  When  done  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
Dish  them  up  and  then  pour  a  reduced  Espagnole  sauce  over  them, 
garnish  around  the  dish  with  small  patties  or  buttered  toast  rilled 
with  scallops  of  marrow  cooked  with  tine  herbs.  Then  serve. 

CAEDOONS   WITH   PARMESAN   CHEESE. 

No.  364. — Prepare  and  cook  them  the  same  as  No.  363,  and  when 
done  drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  trim  them.  Arrange  a  layer  of 
Cardoons  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  add  a  little  reduced  Espaguole 
sauce  and  sprinkle  it  with  Parmesan  cheese.  Make  three  layers 
like  this  and  sprinkle  the  top  with  Parmesan  cheese  and  fresh  bread 
crumbs  mixed  together.  Wipe  off  the  border,  put  a  little  butter 
on  the  top,  and  then  bake  it  in  the  oven. 

CARDOONS,  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE. 

No.  365. — Prepare  and  cook  them  the  same  as  in  No.  363,  and 
when  cooked  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Dish  them  up  and  then 
pour  over  them  a  Cream  sauce,  to  which  add  a  spoonful  of  half  glaze. 

CARDOONS,   WITH  ESSENCE  OF   HAM. 

No.  366. — When  the  Cardoons  are  parboiled  and  cleaned,  as  in 
No.  363,  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  glass  of  white  wine  and 
some  broth  to  cover  them.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch 
of  sugar,  and  let  them  cook  until  the  moisture  is  reduced,  and  they 
are  nicely  glazed.  Then  put  them  in  a  dish,  and  pour  over  them  a 
reduced  brown  sauce,  with  essence  of  ham. 

CARDOON  FRTCASSEE. 

No.  367. — Cook  the  Cardoons  as  in  No.  368,  and  reduce  the 
moisture  without  letting  them  get  brown.  Take  out  the  faggot  and 
add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon. 
Toss  it  all  well  together,  and  serve  with  a  garniture  of  buttered 
toasted  bread,  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

CARDOONS   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  368. — Cut  the  Cardoons  in  pieces  one  and  a  half  inches  long. 
Parboil  and  clean  them  as  in  No.  363,  and  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
6 


82  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

Pat  them  in  a  flat  saucepan,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Moisten 
them  with  white  broth,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch 
of  sugar,  and  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  faggot  of  parsley, 
garnished  with  a  piece  of  lean  ham.  Let  them  cook  slowly  until 
tender,  and  then  take  out  the  faggot.  The  moisture  must  be  well 
reduced.  Take  the  pan  off  of  the  fire,  and  add  a  small  piece  of 
butter  and  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Toss  them  well  together  until 
the  butter  is  melted,  and  then  serve  as  required. 

PUREE  OF  CARDOONS. 

No.  369. — Prepare  and  cook  them  as  in  No.  368.  "When  well 
cooked  take  out  the  faggot,  reduce  the  broth,  and  add  two  spoon- 
fuls of  Allemande  or"Cream  sauce.  Rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve, 
put  them  back  in  the  saucepan,  and  before  serving  add  a  small 
piece  of  butter. 

CARDOON  SALAD,  SPANISH  STYLE. 

No.  370. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Cardoons  the  same  as  in  No.  363. 
Then  cut  them  in  scollops  an  inch  long  and  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
Put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Then  chop  two  cloves  of  garlic  very  fine  and  put  them  in  a  frying 
pan  with  a  little  sweet  oil.  Fry  them  lightly  (not  letting  them  get 
brown),  and  add  immediately  some  bell  peppers,  chopped  fine,  and 
some  vinegar.  Then  let  them  boil  up  for  two  minutes  and  pour  the 
dressing  over  the  Cardoons,  mixing  them  well  together,  and  then 
serve. 

CARDOONS  PRESERVED. 

No.  371. — Prepare  and  clean  the  Cardoons  as  in  No.  363.  Cut 
them  all  the  same  size  and  drain  them.  Then  put  one  gallon  of 
water  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  boils,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  flour, 
diluted  in  cold  water,  a  little  salt,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons. 
Stir  it  until  it  boils,  so  it  will  not  get  lumpy.  When  it  boils,  add  the 
Cardoons,  and  cook  them  until  tender.  Take  the  saucepan  off  of  the 
fire  and  let  the  Cardoons  get  cold.  Take  each  piece  out  and  dip  them 
in  lukewarm  water,  and  place  them  in  quart  tin  cans.  Cover  them 
with  cold-boiled  water,  lightly  salted.  Then  solder  on  the  coveiv 
and  cook  them  in  a  hot  bath  for  two  hours. 

CARDOONS  PUREE,    PRESERVED. 

No.  372. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Cardoons  as  in  No.  363.  When 
they  are  cooked  tender,  drain  them.  Bub  them  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  put  the  puree  in  pint  tin  cans,  Solder  on  the  covers, 
and  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  83 


XXXVIII. 


French  CARROT.  German 

Carrote.  Moehre. 

No.  373. — The  Carrot  is  a  biennial  root,  somewhat  hardy,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  healthful  and  nutritious  of  garden  roots.  It  is 
extensively  used  as  a  vegeteble  for  the  table,  and  for  seasoning  and 
garnitures.  It  contains  a  certain  amount  of  sugar,  which  adds  to 
its  nutritious  quality.  There  are  several  different  varieties,  all  of 
which  can  be  obtained  all  the  year  round.  The  larger  varieties  are 
also  cultivated  as  an  agricultural  root,  and  are  better  suited  than 
other  kinds  of  food  for  dairy  cattle,  not  alone  because  they  are 
nutritious,  but  because  they  impart  a  good  color  and  flavor  to  the 
butter. 

CULTURE. 

No.  374. — The  Carrot  succeeds  best  in  light,  sandy  loam,  made 
rich  by  manuring  the  previous  year.  The  roots  often  grow  pronged 
and  ill-shaped,  in  imperfectly  manured  ground.  It  is  better  to  sow 
as  early  in  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  got  ready,  but  if  planting  is 
necessarily  delayed  until  late  in  the  season,  the  seed  must  be  soaked 
in  tepid  water  twenty-four  hours,  then  dry  it  by  mixing  in  sifted 
ashes,  and  sow  it  in  fully  prepared  soil. 

EARLY  FRENCH  FORCING. 

No.  375. — This  is  the  earliest  variety,  is  valuable  for  forcing,  and 
has  a  small  root  of  fine  flavor. 

EARLY   SCARLET   HORN. 

No.  376. — An  old  and  favorite  variety,  much  esteemed  for  sum- 
mer use. 

HALF   LONG   RED    (STUNTED   ROOTS). 

No.  377. — A  variety  intermediate  in  size,  with  stunted  roots.  Its 
period  of  maturity  is  between  the  Early  Scarlet  Horn  and  the  Long 
Orange. 

HALF   LONG   SCARLET   (POINTED    ROOTS). 

No.  378. — This  is  similar  to  the  Half  Long  Bed  with  stunted 
roots,  except  that  the  roots  are  pointed. 


84  HAEDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EARLY  HALF  LONG  SCARLET  CAREXTON. 

No.  379. — An  early  variety  without  core,  and  is  excellent  for 
forcing,  or  is  used  as  an  early  kind  for  planting  in  the  open  ground. 

LONG   ORANGE. 

No.  380. — It  is  adapted  for  garden  or  farm  culture,  and  has  large- 
jsized  roots. 

DANYERS. 

No.  381. — This  is  a  valuable  variety  having  the  smallest  root  of 
any  kind  grown,  but  it  will  yield  the  greatest  bulk.  Its  color  is  a 
rich  shade  of  orange  and  it  grows  very  smooth  and  handsome. 

ALTRINGHAM. 

No.  382. — An  excellent  variety,  large  and  finely  flavored. 

LARGE   WHITE   BELGIAN. 

No.  383. — A  very  productive  variety,  but  grown  almost  exclusive- 
ly for  stock. 

YELLOW   BELGIAN. 

No.  384. — When  young,  the  roots  are  mild,  delicate  and  of  good 
flavor;  when  full  grown,  it  is  only  valuable  for  stock. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  CARROTS  FOR  COOKING. 

No.  385. — Carrots  should  always  be  scraped,  and  should  only  be 
prepared  when  ready  for  use.  When  young  use  them  as  a  vegeta- 
ble, and  prefer  those  that  are  stunt  rooted.  Cook  them  whole,  or 
cut  them  in  ^rnall  parts.  The  large  carrots  are  cut  in  different 
shapes,  with  spoon  cutters,  for  garnitures,  but  when  used  as  a  veg- 
etable, cut  them  in  a  short,  thick  Julienne.  When  used  for  Julienne 
soup,  cut  them  two  inches  crosswise;  then  slice  them,  and  cut  them 
lengthwise  in  small  stems.  When  they  get  older,  use  only  the  red 
part,  which  you  peel  off  by  cutting  it  the  same  thickness.  In  this 
way  the  pieces  will  stay  whole,  but  in  the  other  way  the  pieces  will 
break  off  when  cooked. 

CARROTS   MAITRE   D' HOTEL. 

No.  386. — Take  three  dozen  young  carrots  and  cut  each  one  in 
half,  then  put  them  in  water  lightly  salted,  and  when  three  quarters 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  85 

done,  drain  them.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter 
and  a  pint  of  broth,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar.  Then  put  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  the  moisture  is 
reduced,  the  carrots  must  be  cooked.  Add  two  spoonfuls  of  Alle- 
mande  sauce  and  a  little  parsley  chopped  fine,  then  toss  them  well 
together  and  serve.  When  large  carrots  are  used,  slice  and  prepare 
them  as  you  would  young  carrots. 

CARROTS   STEWED,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  387. — Prepare  the  carrots  the  same  as  in  No.  386.  When 
the  broth  is  reduced,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  in  which  you  will  mix 
two  spoonfuls  of  flour.  Dilute  it  with  some  broth,  then  let  it  simmer 
slowly  for  ten  minutes,  add  some  fine  chopped  parsley,  and  then  serve. 

CARROTS,    WITH   BUTTER   SAUCE. 

No.  388. — Cut  the  Carrots  in  any  shape  desired,  then  boil  them 
in  water  lightly  salted,  and  when  tender  drain  them.  Then  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little  nutmeg 
and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  add  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  over 
the  fire  a  few  minutes,  then  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Butter  sauce  and 
serve. 

CARROTS   WITH   GEEEN   PEAS,    STRASBOURGEOISE. 

No.  389. — Parboil  two  dozen  young  Carrots  for  five  minutes,  then 
drain  them.  After  this  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, then  toss  them  over  the  fire  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a 
pinch  of  sugar.  Moisten  them  with  white  broth,  and  when  they  are 
half  cooked  add  as  much  green  peas  as  you  have  Carrots,  and  a 
faggot  of  parsley  garnished.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  cook  them 
on  a  brisk  fire.  When  tender  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce. 
Toss  them  well  together  over  the  fire  and  add  a  piece  of  butter  be- 
fore serving. 

STEWED    CARROTS,    INDIAN   STYLE. 

No.  390. — Cut  and  trim  two  dozen  young  Carrots,  all  of  even  size. 
Put  them  in  water  to  cover  them.  Then  season  with  salt,  pepper 
and  sugar,  and  add  a  piece  of  butter.  Cook  them  until  tender. 
Then  slice  an  onion  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter. 
Fry  it  lightly,  adding  a  soup-spoonfu]  of  flour  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
curry  powder.  Let  it  cook  for  a  minute,  while  stirring  it 
well,  and  mix  with  it  a  glassful  of  cream  and  some  of  the  Carrot 
broth  to  make  a  clear  sauce.  Add  the  Carrots  then,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes. 


86  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CARROTS  STEWED  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  391. — Cut  three  dozen  Carrots  in  a  short,  thick  Julienne. 
Boil  them,  and  when  done,  drain  them.  Put  in  a  flat  saucepan  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  set  it  on  the  fire.  When  the  butter  commences 
to  get  brown,  add  the  Carrots.  Toss  them  well  over  the  fire,  add 
some  chopped  parsley,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  a  pinch  of  sugar, 
and  add  two  spoonfuls  of  butter  sauce. 

CARROTS  FOR  LARGE  GARNITURE,  FLAMENT. 

No.  392. — Take  three  dozen  young  Carrots,  trim  them  in  nice 
shape  or  cut  them  with  large  spoon  cutters.  Parboil  them  for  five 
minutes  and  then  drain  them.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  piece  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  a  pint  of  white  broth.  Cook 
them  until  the  broth  is  reduced  and  the  Carrots  glazed.  Serve 
them  as  needed. 

CARROTS   FOR   SMALL   GARNITURE,  OLIVE-SHAPED. 

No.  393. — Cut  as  many  Carrots  as  are  needed,  in  olive  shape, 
with  a  spoon  cutter.  Cook  them  the  same  as  in  No.  392,  and  when 
glazed  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream,  Allemande  or  Brown  sauce, 
which-ever  may  be  desired. 

CARROT   GARNITURE,  NIVERNAISE. 

No.  394. — Cut  the  Carrots  with  a  channelled  spoon  cutter,  the 
size  of  a  small  olive.  Cook  them  the  same  as  in  No.  392.  When  well 
glazed,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  chopped  parsley. 
Toss  them  well  together,  and  serve  with  articles  needed  in  Niver- 
naise  style. 

CARROT  PUREE  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  395. — Use  young  carrots  or  only  the  red  parts  of  old  ones. 
When  washed  and  cleaned,  parboil  them  for  fifteen  minutes,  and 
then  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  a  little 
nutmeg.  Put  on  the  lid,  set  them  over  a  slow  fire  and  let  them 
simmer,  turning  them  occasionally,  not  letting  them  get  brown. 
Moisten  with  a  little  broth,  and  when  cooked  and  lightly  glazed, 
add  a  reduced  Allemande  or  cream  sauce.  Then  rub  it  through  a 
fine  sieve,  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  and  warm  it  thoroughly. 
Before  serving,  add  a  piece  of  butter. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  87 

CARROT  SOUP  PUREE,  AURORE. 

No.  396. — Tcike  three  dozen  young  Carrots,  or  the  red  parts  of 
old  ones,  and  slice  them  in  fine  pieces.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  two  onions,  two  pieces  of  celery,  a  faggot  of 
parsley  garnished  with  a  leek,  a  little  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  simmer  until  the  moisture  is 
reduced,  not  letting  them  burn  or  get  browned.  Then  add  one 
quart  of  broth,  and  cook  slowly  until  done.  Then  add  one  gallon 
of  thickened  veal  or  chickeu  broth,  and  let  it  all  boil  slowly  for 
twentv  minutes.  Then  take  out  the  faggot,  skim  the  top,  and  rub 
the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  to 
keep  warm,  and  before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter,  stirring  it  well 
until  melted.  Serve  with  small  fried  bread-crumbs,  separate. 

CARROT  SOUP  PUREE,  STANLEY 

No.  397. — Prepare  the  puree  the  same  as  in  No.  398.  Before 
serving,  add  a  pint  of  cream,  in  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  six  raw 
eggs  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Then  add  a  garniture  of  balls  of 
forced  meat  of  chicken,  green  peas  and  asparagus  tops,  cooked 
separate. 

CARROT   SOUP   PUREE,    GERMAN    STYLE. 

No.  398. — Prepare  the  Carrots  as  in  No.  396.  When  the  moist- 
ure is  reduced  add  two  quarts  of  broth  and  the  crumbs  of  a  loaf 
of  white  bread.  Let  them  cook  slowly  until  the  Carrots  are  thor- 
oughly done.  Then  add  two  quarts  of  cream  sauce  while  stirring 
it  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  if  it  is  too  thick  add  some  broth,  to 
bring  it  to  the  proper  consistency.  After  fifteen  minutes,  rub  it 
all  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  it  back  on  the  fire  to  keep  warm,  then 
-add  a  piece  of  butter  and  season  to  taste.  Before  serving,  add  some 
Vermicelli  or  Noodles  cooked  in  broth. 

SOUP   PUREE,    CRECY. 

No.  399. — Cut  the  red  part  of  two  dozen  Carrots  in  small  pieces, 
parboil  them  for  two  minutes  and  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  add  two  white  onions 
sliced  and  the  white  part  of  two  leeks.  Let  them  simmer  for  five 
minutes  until  the  moisture  is  reduced,  stirring  it  occasionally. 
Then  add  two  quarts  of  white  broth,  half  a  pound  of  rice  or  the 
crumbs  of  one  square  loaf  of  bread.  Cook  them  slowly  until 
well  cooked,  and  add  three  quarts  of  chicken  or  veal  broth,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper  and  sugar.  Rub  the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve, 


00  HARDER  S   AMEKICAN   COOKEKY. 

then  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan,  stirring  it  until  it  boils.  Then 
let  it  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then  skim  it  and  add  a  piece  of 
butter.  Serve  it  with  small  fried  bread  crumbs.  In  this  soup 
boiled  rice  or  any  other  paste  may  be  used. 

CAKROT   SOUP   PUREE,    CKECY,    FOR  FAST   DAYS. 

No.  400. — Prepare  it  the  same  as  in  No.  399.  Use  vegetable 
consomme  in  place  of  chicken  or  veal  broth. 

CARROTS   PICKLED. 

No.  401. — Use  small  young  Carrots.  Trim  them,  parboil  them 
two  minutes,  and  then  peel  them.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
boiling  water  lightly  salted.  Cook  them  until  nearly  done,  then 
drain  them  and  put  them  in  earthen  jars  with  enough  cold  boiled 
vinegar  to  cover  them.  Let  it  lay  until  next  day,  when  you  will 
draw  off  the  vinegar  and  boil  it,  adding  a  little  salt.  Put  the  Car- 
rots in  a  two-quart  jar  and  pour  the  vinegar,  when  cold,  over  them 
(just  enough  to  cover  them).  Then  add  half  a  dozen  cloves  and 
three  bay  leaves.  Cover  the  jar  tight  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 
Use  them  for  garnishing,  the  same  as  beets. 

CARROTS  PRESERVED  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  402. — Use  young  Carrots  and  cut  them  in  any  shape,  but 
nearly  all  of  the  same  size.  Parboil  them  until  half  cooked,  in 
water  lightly  salted.  Drain  and  then  dry  them  on  a  towel,  and 
when  cold  put  them  in  quart  tin  cans.  Cover  them  with  boiled 
water  lightly  salted.  Then  solder  on  the  covers  and  boil  in  a  hot 
water  bath  for  one  hour  and  a  half.  If  you  use  whole  Carrots,  you 
must  boil  them  for  two  hours. 

PUREE  OF  CARROTS  PRESERVED  FOR  SOUPS  OR  GARNITURES. 

No.  403. — Use  only  the  red  part  of  four  dozen  Carrots.  Slice 
them  in  fine  pieces,  parboil  them  five  minutes,  then  drain  them. 
Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  plain  veal  broth.  Let 
them  cook  until  the  Carrots  are  well  cooked,  and  then  rub  them 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  the  puree  in  quart  tin  cans,  solder 
on  the  covers,  and  boil  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  89 


ARTICLE  XXXIX. 


Froi:c!»  CATERPILLAR.  German 

Scorpiure.  Raupenpflanzen. 

No.  404. — A  hardy  annual  plant  with  creeping  stems,-  that  are 
about  two  feet  'in  length.  The  seeds  are  produced  in  pods.  No 
part  of  the  plant  is  eatable,  but  the  pods,  in  their  green  state,  are 
placed  upon  dishes  of  salad,  and  so  closely  do  they  resemble  a  real 
caterpillar,  that  they  will  oftentimes  deceive  the  uninitiated. 

CULTURE. 

No.  405. — Sow  them  in  April,  fifteen  inches  apart,  in  rows  that 
are  fifteen  inches  wide. 


ARTICLE; 


CATNIP. 

Nepeta.  Katzenkraut. 

No.  406. — This  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant,  well  known  as  a  mild 
nervine  for  infants.  The  plant  should  be  pulled  up  by  the  roots 
when  in  full  flower,  and  dried  in  the  shade. 

CULTURE. 

. 

No.  407. — The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  drills,  twenty  inches  apart, 
either  in  the  fall  or  in  spring. 


ARTICLE  XLI. 


CATSUP. 

Oat  sup.  Catchup. 

No.  408. — Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  in  buying  Catsup,  as 
there  are  many  spurious  imitations  made  that  are  deleterious  to 
health,  often  producing  dyspepsia,  etc.  It  is  made  of  tomatoes, 


90  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

mushrooms,  walnuts,  etc.,  as  described  elsewhere  in  this  book  and 
•can  be  made  in  any  family  far  superior  to  that  which  is  purchased 
in  stores,  and  having  the  advantage  of  being  pure  and  healthful. 


XLII. 


FrciicJi  CAULIFLOWER  German 

•Choiifleur.  Blumen  Kohl. 

No.  409. — The  Cauliflower,  like  Brocoli,  is  an  annual  plant,  being 
delicious  in  flavor.  It  requires  a  cool,  moist  atmosphere  to  bring 
it  to  perfection,  and  if  this  condition  occurs  when  the  plant  is  about 
to  head,  fine  large  heads  will  result,  whereas,  if  the  air  is  hot  and 
dry,  failure  will  result  in  spite  of  the  best  of  seeds  and  cultivation. 
Brocoli  is  a  species  of  Cauliflower,  and  both  are  prepared  in  the 
same  style.  See  Brocoli,  Article  XXIII. 

CULTURE. 

No.  410. — For  the  spring  or  summer  crop,  sow  the  early  varieties, 
about  the  last  of  winter,  in  hot-beds,  and  transplant  them  into  the 
open  air  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  For  the  late  autumn 
crop,  sow  the  late  varieties  about  the  middle  of  spring,  and  trans- 
plant them  as  you  would  winter  cabbages.  In  dry  weather  water 
them  freely,  and  as  they  advance  in  growth  hoe  deep  and  draw 
earth  to  the  stems.  After  they  begin  to  head  they  should  be  watered 
every  other  day.  In  two  or  three  weeks  the  strongest  will  begin  to 
form  flower  heads,  which  should  be  cut  for  use  while  the  curd  is  close 
and  compact.  It  is  then  tender  and  delicious,  but  later  on  the  head 
opens  and  separates  into  branches  and  soon  becomes  coarse,  fibrous, 
strongly  flavored,  and  unfit  for  use.  The  leaves  should  be  gathered 
and  tied  loosely  over  the  tops  of  the  heads  to  facilitate  blanching. 
On  the  approach  of  frost,  those  plants  that  have  not  headed  may 
be  set  out  in  a  cellar  and  can  be  aired  in  mild  weather. 

EARLY   SNOWBALL. 

No.  411. — This  is  the  earliest  of  all  Cauliflowers.  Its  heads 
measure  from  8  to  9  inches  in  diameter.  Every  plant  forms  a  fine 
head.  Its  dwarf  habit  and  short  interleaves  allow  it  to  be  planted 
as  close  as  18  inches  apart  each  way.  This  variety  does  equally 
well  for  late  planting. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  91 

EARLY  DWARF   ERFURT. 

No.  412. — Aii  early  dwarf  variety,  having  large  white  compact 
heads  of  the  finest  quality. 

EARLY   PARIS. 

No.  413. — An  excellent  variety. 

NONPAREIL. 

= 

No.  414, — A  half  early  variety  and  one  of  the  best. 

EARLY    LONDON. 

No.  415. — An  excellent  and  very  early  variety. 

LENORMAND   SHORT   STEMMED. 

No.  416. — A  large  late  variety,  with  well-formed  heads  of  superior 
quality. 

WALCHEREN. 

No.  417. — Aii  old  and  favorite  variety. 

ALGIERS. 

No.  418. — An  excellent  late  variety,  in  general  favor. 

WEITH'S  AUTUMN  GIANT. 

No.  419. — A  valuable  late  variety,  particularly  in  the  Southern 
States  and  California. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  CAULIFLOWER  FOR  COOKING. 

No.  420. — Cut  the  root  close  to  the  stem,  then  trim  off  all  cf  the 
leaves  and  wash  them  carefully  in  cold  water,  as  there  are  often 
some  insects  among  the  stems  and  buds. 

CAULIFLOWER,  WITH  BUTTER  SAUCE. 

No.  421. — Wash  and  trim  them  as  in  No.  420.  Put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  enough  water  to  cover  them,  and  add  a  little  salt 
when  they  boil.  Let  them  cook  slowly,  adding  a  little  milk  and  a 


92  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

piece  of  butter.  When  cooked,  drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  be 
careful  riot  to  break  the  flowered  buds.  Serve  on  a  napkin,  with 
Butter  sauce  separate. 

CAULIFLOWER,  HOLLANDAISE. 

No.  422. — Prepare  the  same  as  in  No.  420.  When  cooked,  drain 
them  on  a  napkin.  Put  the  Cauliflowers  on  a  dish  and  put  Hollan- 
daise  sauce  over  them. 

If  they  are  small  and  detached,  put  them  in  a  bowl  with  the  heads 
downward.  Press  them  lightly,  moulding  them  together,  as  it 
were,  in  the  bowl,  so  they  will  all  form  together,  making  one  large 
head.  Then  put  it  on  a  plate  with  the  head  up,  and  pour  Hollan- 
daise  sauce  over  it. 

CAULIFLOWER  BAKED,  AU  GRATIN. 

No.  423. — Cook  the  Cauliflowers  as  in  No.  421.  Drain  off  all  the 
moisture  and  season  them  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Then  put 
them  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  evenly  formed,  and  pour  over  them 
a  reduced  cream  or  Allemande  sauce,  to  which  add  some  grated 
Parmesan  cheese.  Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them  and  put 
a  small  piece  of  butter  on  top.  Wipe  the  borders  off  clean,  and 
then  bake  in  an  oven. 

CAULIFLOWER  FRIED,  VILLEROI. 

No.  424. — Cook  the  Cauliflowers  the  same  as  in  No.  421.  After 
you  drain  them,  cut  off  the  flowered  heads  in  small  bunches  and  dip 
them  in  Villeroi  sauce.  Set  them  in  a  cool  place,  so  the  sauce  will 
adhere  to  the  Cauliflower.  Then  bread  them  with  fresh  bread 
crumbs.  After  this,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread  them  again. 
Fry  them  in  hot  lard,  until  nicely  browned,  and  serve  them  on  a 
napkin,  with  fried  parsley  as  a  garniture. 

CAULIFLOWER   FRIED  IN   BATTER. 

No.  425. — Cook  the  Cauliflowers  as  in  No.  421.  Then  drain  them 
and  cut  the  flowered  buds  in  small  bunches.  Put  them  in  an  earthen 
bowl,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little  vinegar, 
some  finely  chopped  parsley  and  chives,  and  cover  them  to  macerate 
for  two  hours.  Then  place  them  on  a  towel  to  absorb  all  the 
moisture,  and  afterwards  dip  them  in  a  light  batter  and  fry  them  in 
hot  lard  to  a  nice  brown  color. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  93 

CAULIFLOWER,  ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  426. — Cut  off  the  flowered  buds  of  the  Cauliflower  in  small 
bunches.  Then  boil  them  in  water  lightly  salted,  and  when  tender 
drain  them.  Then  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of 
butter,  and  toss  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  seasoning  them  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  little  nutmeg.  When  thoroughly  warmed,  dish  them 
up  and  pour  over  them  some  Anchovie  butter  sauce,  in  which  add 
the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  little  parsley  chopped  fine. 

CAULIFLOWER   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  427. — Cut  off  the  flowered  buds,  boil  them,  and  when  done 
drain  them.  If  you  wish  a  small  garniture,  cut  them  small.  If  for 
a  large  garniture,  leave  them  in  bunches.  For  a  large  garniture 
dress  them  in  bunches  around  the  dish  with  other  vegetables,  and 
mask  them  lightly  with  a  white  sauce. 

CAULIFLOWER  PUREE,  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  428. — Boil  two  heads  of  Cauliflower  as  in  No.  421.  Drain 
them  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream  or 
Allemande  sauce.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Mix  them 
well  together,  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  in  a  flat  sauce- 
pan. Red  ace  it  with  a  'glass  of  cream  to  its  proper  consistency,  and 
before  serving  add  a  small  piece  of  butter. 

CAULIFLOWER   SALAD. 

No.  429. — Boil  two  heads  of  Cauliflower  in  water  lightly  salted. 
When  cold  cut  off  the  flowering  buds,  dividing  them  in  small  tufts. 
Put  them  in  a  salad  bowl,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour 
over  them  a  light  Mayonnaise  or  cream  dressing.  Mix  gently,  so 
as  not  to  break  them,  and  garnish  with  beets  and  water  cress. 

SOUP — CREAM   OF   CAULIFLOWER. 

No.  430. — Cook  four  heads  of  Cauliflower  as  in  No.  421.  When 
drained  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  Cream  sauce. 
Dilute  it  to  its  proper  consistency  with  chicken  or  veal  broth,  and 
season  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Rub  it  through  a  fine 
sieve,  then  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  to  keep  warm,  not  letting  it 
boil.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter,  stirring  it  in  well 
until  the  butter  is  melted.  Then  add  some  chives  chopped  fine. 
Cauliflower  soup  should  only  be  made  when  you  have  fresh  plucked 
young  Cauliflower. 


94  HAKDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CAULIFLOWER  SOUP  PUREE. 

No.  431. — Cook  four  heads  of  Cauliflower  as  in  No.  421,  and 
when  drained  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  gallon  of  thickened 
chicken  or  veal  broth.  Season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  rub 
it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  to  boil  for  ten 
minutes.  Before  serving  add  one  pint  of  cream  diluted  with  the 
yolks  of  six  raw  eggs  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Add  some  small  square 
pieces  of  breast  of  boiled  chicken. 

CAULIFLOWER    PICKLED. 

No.  432. — After  you  have  picked  and  washed  a  number  of  Cauli- 
flo-.vers,  cut  off  about  three  pounds  of  the  flowered  buds  and  arrange 
them  in  small  bunches  all  of  the  same  size.  Pat  them  in  a  pan  of 
cold  water.  Then  put  some  lightly  salted  water  in  a  saucepan,  and 
when  it  boils  add  the  Cauliflowers.  Let  them  boil  for  six  minutes, 
then  drain  them  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  jar.  Then  pour  hot 
boiling  vinegar  over  them  and  keep  the  cover  on  the  jar  until  the 
next  day,  when  you  will  drain  off  the  vinegar.  Then  boil  the  vin- 
egar again,  adding  a  little  salt,  and  pour  it  hot  over  the  Cauliflower 
in  the  jar.  When  cold  cover  them  tight  and  set  them  in  a  cool 
place.  If  glass  jars  are  used  pour  the  vinegar  in  slowly  at  first,  as 
the  glass  is  liable  to  crack. 

CAULIFLOWER  PRESERVED   IN  BRINE. 

No.  433. — After  you  have  picked  and  washed  the  Cauliflowers  cut 
off  the  flowering  buds  in  large  bunches.  Parboil  them  six  minutes, 
then  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  afterwards  drain  them.  Put 
them  in  earthen  jars  with  a  boiled  salt  brine  of  18  degrees  (sugar 
weight).  xTwo  days  later  drain  off  the  brine  and  boil  it  over  again, 
adding  salt  to  bring  it  to  18  degrees.  Pour  it  over  the  Cauliflower 
and  cover  the  jar  tight.  When  ready  to  use  soak  them  in  cold 
water  for  five  hours,  boil  in  fresh  water,  and  serve  as  needed. 


ARTICLE 


French          CELERIAC,  OR  TURNIP  ROOTED  CELERY.         German 

Celeri  Rave..  Knol  Selleri. 

No.  434. — This  variety  has  a  brownish,  irregular  root,  at  the  base 
of  the  leaves  near  the  surface  of  the  ground.  It  is  much  hardier 
than  the  common  variety  of  celery.  Those  required  for  winter  use 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  95 

should  be  drawn,  packed  in  sand,  and  stored  in  the  cellar  before 
severe  weather  sets  in.  It  is  used  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
common  celery.  Its  root,  or  bulb,  is  the  only  part  eaten.  Its  flesh 
is  wrhite  and  tender,  having  the  flavor  of  the  stalks  of  common 
celery,  though  less  mild  and  delicate.  The  leaf-stalk  is  used  most 
for  flavoring  soups,  and  the  bulbs  are  stewed  or  used  in  salad  the 
same  as  celery. 

CULTURE. 

No.  435. — Sow  it  early  in  spring,  in  light,  rich  soil,  and  transplant 
it  in  May  into  beds,  and  water  it  freely  in  dry  weather.  When  the 
plants  are  almost  full  grown,  it  is  customary  to  earth  up  the  bulbs 
to  the  height  of  four  or  five  inches.  In  about  a  month  they  will  be 
sufficiently  blanched  for  use.  The  roots,  which  resemble  turnips, 
will  be  ready  in  October,  and  may  be  preserved  in  sand  during 
winter.  It  is -a  vegetable  that  is  much  esteemed  for  culinary  pur- 
poses. 

LARGE  ERFURT. 

No.  436. — This  is  a  variety  of  Celeriac,  having  turnip-shaped 
roots,  which  may  be  cooked  and  sliced,  and  used  with  vinegar,  to 
make  an  excellent  salad.  It  is  more  hardy,  and  may  be  used  in  the 
same  manner  as  celery. 

APPLE-SHAPED. 

No.  437. —  This  is  a  great  improvement  over  the  old  variety, 
having  small  foliage,  and  large,  round  and  smooth  tubers. 

CELERIAC   FRIED,    VILLEROI. 

No.  438. — Pare  and  then  wash  six  Celeriac  roots  in  cold  water 
and  cut  them  in  quarters.  Take  off  the  hard  part,  trim  them 
in  scallops,  parboil  them,  for  15  minutes,  and  drain  them.  Then 
put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  lined  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  moisten 
them  with  white  broth.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a 
pinch  of  sugar.  Then  cover  them  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  put 
them  on  the  fire  and  let  them  cook  slowly.  When  cooked  take  out 
the  Celeriac  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Then  strain  the  gravy  in 
another  saucepan  and  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce.  Re- 
duce it  on  a  brisk  fire  and  when  cool  dip  the  Celeriac  in  the  sauce. 
Then  arrange  them  in  a  pan  and  set  them  in  a  cool  place,  and  when 
they  are  cold  and  the  sauce  adheres  to  the  Celeriac,  bread  them  in 
fresh  bread  crumbs.  Then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread  them 
again.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  and  serve  on  a  dish  having  a  puree 
of  Celeriac  in  the  center. 


96  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CELERIAC  PUREE  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  439. — Prepare  the  Celeriac  the  same  as  No.  438.  When  the 
Celeriac  is  cooked  strain  and  remove  the  gravy,  then  add  four 
spoonfuls  of  Cream  or  Allemande  sauce.  Bub  it  all  through  a  fine 
sieve  and  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan.  Then  add  a  glass  of  cream 
to  reduce  it  to  its  consistency.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter 
and  a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze. 

CELERIAC  STEWED,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  440. — Cut  the  Celeriac  roots  in  scallops  and  prepare  them 
the  same  way  as  Celery  No.  463. 

CELERIAC   STEWED,    WITH   ALLEMANDE   OR   CREAM   SAUCE. 

No.  441. — Cut  the  Celeriac  roots  in  scallops  and  prepare  them 
the  same  way  as  Celery  Nos.  464  and  465. 

THE   USE   OF   CELERIAC   TOPS. 

No.  442. — Celeriac  tops  are  used  principally  for  garnishing  fag- 
gots and  for  flavoring  soups,  etc. 

CELERIAC  WITH   GRAVY  (HALF-GLAZE). 

Fo.  443. — When  the  Celeriac  roots  are  peeled,  cut  them  in  quar- 
ters, then  trim  them  all  alike,  and  cook  and  serve  them  the  same  as 
Celery,  No.  462. 

CELERIAC,   FOR   SOUPS. 

No.  444. — Prepare  the  same  as  those  with  common  celery.  Celeriac 
should  always  be  added  with  the  common  celery  in  soups  or  purees, 
as  it  gives  it  a  better  flavor.  The  roots  are  also  used  for  all  of  the 
other  vegetable  soups  when  celery  is  used  in  their  combination. 

CELERIAC,   PRESERVED. 

No.  445. — Peel  and  wash  one  dozen  Celeriac  roots  and  cut  them 
in  quarters.  Trim  them  all  the  same  size  and  parboil  them  for  five 
minutes.  Put  two  gallons  of  water  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  boils 
put  in  it  three  spoonfuls  of  flour  (diluted  with  a  little  cold  water), 
the  juice  of  three  lemons  and  a  little  salt,  and  then  add  the 
Celeriac  roots.  When  three-quarters  cooked,  take  them  off  of  the 
fire  and  let  them  cool.  Then  take  out  the  Celeriac  roots,  dip  them 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  97 

in  lukewarm  water,  and  arrange  them  in  quart  tin  cans.  Cover 
them  with  cold-boiled  water,  lightly  salted.  Then  solder  on  the 
covers  and  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 

CELEKIAC   PICKLED. 

No.  446. — Peel  one  dozen  Celeriac  roots,  and  cut  them  all  of  even 
size,  not  too  thin.  Parboil  them  in  water  lightly  salted,  until  three 
quarters  cooked.  Then  drain  them  and  arrange  them  in  an  earthen 
jar.  Then  boil  some  wine  vinegar  and  pour  it  over  the  Celeriac  in 
the  jar,  while  hot.  Add  a  few  grains  of  pepper  and  a  few  fennel  leaves. 
Cover  the  jar  and  let  it  stand  until  the  next  day,  when  you  will 
drain  otf  the  vinegar  and  put  the  Celeriac  in  glass  jars.  Put 
in  a  bowl  four  spoonfuls  of  English  mustard  flour.  Dilute  it  with 
vinegar,  add  some  red  pepper,  and  mix  it  well  together,  to  have  a 
light  gravy.  Pour  it  over  the  Celeriac  roots,  then  cover  the  jar  and 
put  it  away. 

CELERIAC   PRESERVED   IN  BRINE. 

No.  447. — Peel  and  wash  two  dozen  Celeriac  roots,  and  cut  them 
in  quarters.  Parboil  them  until  three-quarters  cooked.  Then 
immerse  them  in  cold  water,  drain  them,  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin. 
Put  them  in  earthen  jars  and  cover  them  with  a  strong  boiled  brine, 
when  cold.  Cover  them  and  let  them  lay  for  two  days,  and  then 
drain  otf  the  brine.  Then  boil  the  brine  again,  adding  salt,  to  have 
it  at  about  16  or  18  degrees  (sugar  weight).  When  it  is  cold  pour 
it  over  the  Celeriac  in  the  jars,  put  the  covers  on  tight  and  put  the 
jars  in  a  cool  place.  When  you  are  ready  to  use  them  soak  them 
in  fresh  water  for  a  few  hours,  and  prepare  them  as  required. 


XLIV. 


French  CELERY.  German 

Celeri.  Selleri* 

No.  448. — Celery  is  a  hardy,  umbelliferous  biennial  plant,  and  is 
always  propagated  from  seed.  The  stems  of  the  leaves  are  the  parts 
of  the  plant  that  are  used.  These,  after  being  blanched,  are  exceed- 
ingly crisp  and  tender,  having  an  agreeable  and  peculiar  aromatic 
flavor.  They  are  prepared  in  various  ways,  but  are  generally  served 
raw,  for  a  relish,  with  salt  or  with  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard  sauce. 
They  are  almost  indispensable  for  salads. 


98  HAKDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CULTURE. 

No.  449. — Sow  the  seed  in  shallow  boxes,  or  in  a  finely  prepared 
bed  out  of  doors,  in  straight  rows,  so  that  the  small  plants  may  be 
kept  free  from  weeds.  When  about  two  inches  high,  thin  them  out 
and  transplant  them  so  they  will  stand  two  inches  apart.  When 
they  are  about  four  inches  high  cut  off  the  tops,  which  will  cause 
them  to  grow  stocky.  The  crop  is  usually  an  early  one,  and  if  good 
plants  are  used,  they  may  be  set  out  as  late  as  the  middle  of  August. 
The  best  results,  however,  are  obtained  by  setting  them  out  in  the 
middle  of  June  or  the  first  of  July.  When  setting  them  out,  prepare 
broad,  shallow  trenches,  about  six  inches  deep  and  four  feet  apart, 
in  which  the  plants  should  be  set  six  inches  apart.  Cut  off  the 
outer  leaves  and  press  the  soil  firmly  about  the  roots.  In  about  six 
weeks  the  plants  should  be  handled,  which  is  done  by  having  one 
man  gather  the  leaves  together  while  a  second  man  draws  the  earth 
about  the  plant  to  one-third  of  its  height,  being  careful  that  none 
of  the  earth  falls  between  the  leaves,  as  that  would  cause  them  to 
rust  or  rot.  In  a  few  days  draw  more  earth  around  them,  and  repeat 
this  process  every  few  days  until  only  the  tops  of  the  leaves  are 
visible.  In  a  few  days  more  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  Do  not  disturb 
the  plants  when  the  ground  is  wet,  as  that  will  injure  them. 

At  the  approach  of  severe,  freezing  weather,  take  up  the  plants 
and  put  them  in  a  light  cellar  or  an  unused  frame,  where  the  tem- 
perature can  be  kept  above  the  freezing  point.  Set  them  out 
compactly,  so  that  all  but  the  tops  of  the  leaves  can  be  covered  with 
sand.  They  will  then  gradually  blanch,  and  may  be  used  throughout 
the  winter. 

DWARF   WHITE. 

No.  450. — A  favorite  market  variety  of  close  habit,  being  solid, 
crisp  and  tender. 

SANDRINGHAM    DWARF   WHITE. 

No.  451. — An  excellent  variety,  remarkable  for  its  fine  flavor  and 
solidity. 

GIANT   WHITE   SOLID. 

) 

No.  452. — This  is  of  large  size,  solid  and  crisp. 

'i 

WHITE   WALNUT. 

No.  453. — A  dwarf  habit  seldom  attaining  a  height  of  more  than 
twenty  iaches.  It  is  solid  and  heavy,  having  a  rich  walnut -like 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  99 

flavor.     Its  graceful  and  feather-like  foliage,  when  blanched,  makes 
it  a  most  beautiful  Celery  for  the  table. 


HALF   DWARF. 

No.  454. — A  remarkably  fine  white  variety,  intermediate  in  size 
between  the  Dwarf  and  Large  White.  When  blanched  it  is  of  a 
yellowish  white  color,  making  it  very  ornamental  for  the  table.  It  is 
entirely  solid,  possessing  a  rich  nutty  flavor. 

GOLDEN   DWARF. 

No.  455. — This  is  ar  distinct  variety  in  size,  but  grows  similar  to 
the  Half  Dwarf,  except  that  when  blanched  the  heart,  which  is  large, 
is  of  a  waxy  golden  yellow  color,  which  renders  it  most  striking.  It 
is  entirely  solid,  has  an  excellent  flavor  and  keeps  well  during 
winter. 

LONDON   BED. 

No.  456. — The  red  Celery  is  generally  superior  to  the  white,  being 
better  flavored  and  more  crisp.  It  is  also  hardier  and  keeps  better 
in  winter.  The  London  Red  is  one  of  the  best  varieties,  having 
every  requisite  goqd  quality. 

MAJOR  CLARK  PINK. 

No.  457. — There  is  a  disposition  to  grow  red  or  pink  Celery  in 
preference  to  the  white,  which  is  as  it  should  be,  for  as  regards  the 
flavor  the  red  and  pink  are  far  superior  to  the  white.  The  Major 
Clark  Pink  is  a  variety  of  medium  growth  of  stiff,  close  habit,  hav- 
ing a  large  heart,  remarkably  solid  and  crisp,  and  of  a  fine  walnut 
flavor. 

HOOD'S  DWARF  RED. 

No.  458. — An  excellent  dwarf  variety,  solid  and  crisp. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  CELERY  FOR  GENERAL  USE. 

No.  459. — Trim  off  the  green  stems,  then  cut  off  the  tops,  leaving 
the  yellow  center  leaves.  Make  two  deep  incisions  in  the  bottom 
of  the  stalk,  so  as  to  be  able  to  wash  the  Celery  well  in  cold  water. 

CELERY  PLAIN,  FOR  RELISHES. 

No.  460. — Trim  the  Celery,  using  only  the  tender  hearts.  Then 
put  them  in  a  basin,  on  ice,  until  ready  for  use,  and  then  serve  them 


100  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

in  Celery  glasses.  Serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  Anchovie  paster 
diluted  with  warmed  sweet  oil,  without  letting  it  boil,  or  plain 
Anchovie  butter.  It  can  also  be  served  after  dinner,  plain,  with 
the  cheese. 

DRESSED    CELEEY. 

No.  461. — Trim  and  wash  the  Celery  in  cold  water,  letting  it  lay 
on  ice  until  ready  for  use.  Then  dry  it  on  a  napkin  and  cut  it  in 
thin  sliced  sticks,  an  inch  and  a  half  long.  Season  it  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream  of  mustard  dressing. 

CELEEY  WITH    GRAVY  (HALF-GLAZE). 

No.  462. — Clean  and  wash  the  celery  and  cut  it  in  bunches,  five 
or  six  inches  in  length  from  the  root.  Tie  them  together,  single  or 
double.  Then  parboil  them  for  three  minutes,  immerse  them  hi 
cold  water  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Put  some  thin  slices  of  fat 
pork  in  a  saucepan  and  arrange  the  celery  on  it.  Then  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Moisten  it  with  veal 
gravy  or  a  light  Espagnole  sauce,  and  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat 
pork.  Put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  let  it  boil,  and  then  cook 
slowly  until  tender  and  nicely  glazed.  Then  put  the  Celery  in  a 
dish,  strain  the  gravy  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  skim  off  the  grease. 
Then  pour  the  gravy  over  the  Celery  and  serve.  ' 

CELERY  STEWED,  SPANISH    STYLE. 

No.  463. — Clean  and  wash  the  Celery  and  cut  the  white  part  in 
pieces  of  even  size  two  inches  long.  Parboil  them  for  three 
minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  dry  them  on  a  nap- 
kin. Put  the  Celery  in  a  flat  saucepan,  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  the  Celery  simmer  until  the  moisture  is 
reduced.  Then  cover  it  with  white  broth.  Let  it  reduce  on  a  brisk 
fire  to  a  glaze,  when  the  Celery  must  be  cooked.  Then  add  three 
spoonfuls  of  Tomato  sauce  and  one  of  Espagnole  sauce,  and  let  it 
cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  some 
parsley  chopped  fine,  and  toss  it  all  well  over  a  fire.  Then  serve 
with  small  toast  of  marrow  around  the  dish  as  a  garniture. 

CELERY  STEWED  WITH  ALLEMANDE  SAUCE. 

No.  464. — Prepare  the  Celery  the  same  as  in  No.  463,  and  when 
it  is  cooked  to  a  glaze  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce. 
When  it  is  ready  to  serve  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  some  finely 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  101 

chopped  parsley  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.     Toss  it  well  over  the 
fire  and  serve  with  small  pieces  of  toast  as  a  garniture. 

CELERY   STEWED   WITH   CREAM   SAUCE. 

No.  465. — Prepare  the  Celery  the  same  as  in  No.  464,  and  add 
Cream  sauce  in  place  of  Allemande  sauce.  Instead  of  lemon  juice 
-add  a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze,  and  then  serve. 

CELERY   SAUCE. 

No.  466. — Cut  the  tender  part  of  two  heads  of  Celery  in  pieces 
one  inch  long,  or  smaller  if  desired.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
enough  water  to  cover  them  and  season  with  salt.  Let  them  boil 
until  tender  and  then  drain  off  half  of  the  water.  Add  a  pint  of 
boiling  milk  and  when  it  all  boils  add  four  ounces  of  butter  in 
which  you  will  mix  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  it  gently  until 
melted.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  letting  it  boil  10  or 
15  minutes. 

CELERY   FRIED,    VILLEROI. 

No.  467. — When  the  Celery  is  trimmed  and  washed,  cut  the  ten- 
der stems  in  pieces  four  inches  long.  Parboil  them  for  five  minutes, 
then  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  some  broth  to  cover  them,  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  little  sugar.  Let  them  cook  slowly  until  tender, 
then  take  them  out  and  drain  off  the  moisture  on  a  napkin.  Then 
dip  them  in  a  cool  Villeroi  sauce,  and  place  them  on  a  pan  in  a 
cool  place.  When  the  sauce  is  firm  trim  them,  roll  them  in  fresh 
bread  crumbs,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread  them 
again.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin,  with 
fried  parsley  to  garnish. 

CELERY   WITH   PARMESAN   CHEESE. 

No.  468. — Prepare  the  Celery  the  same  as  in  No.  464.  Add  to 
the  Allemande  sauce  some  fine  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Put  the 
Celery  in  a  buttered  baking  dish  or  in  shells.  Sprinkle  the  top 
with  bread  crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  and  add  a  small  piece  of  but- 
ter on  top.  Wipe  off  the  borders  clean  and  put  it  in  an  oven  to 
bake. 

CELERY   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  469. — Prepare  the  same  as  in  Nos.  452,  463,  464,  and  465, 
with  but  very  little  sauce.  The  Celery  in  No.  462  is  ussd  for  large 


102  HABDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

garnitures.  As  a  garniture  for  salad  borders  use  it  as  follows: 
Trim  all  of  the  green  leaves  from  the  bottom  of  a  head  of  celery, 
and  cut  it  in  pieces  two  inches  long.  Then  slice  it  thin  and  cut  the 
broad  stems  an  inch  deep,  without  detaching  them.  Then  lay  them 
in  cold  water  for  an  hour,  and  they  will  be  nicely  frizzled.  That  is, 
the  little  shreds  will  be  curled.  When  using  Celery  for  the 
center  of  a  salad,  take  the  heart  of  the  Celery  and  slice  it  thin 
a  few  inches  from  the  top,  and  lay  the  pieces  in  cold  water  for  an 
hour,  when  it  will  be  nicely  frizzled.  This  makes  an  attractive 
garniture  over  the  salad. 

CELERY  PUREE,  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  470. — Clean  and  trim  six  heads  of  Celery,  cut  the  white  parts 
in  small  pieces  and  parboil  them  for  ten  minutes.  Then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water,  drain  them  dry,  and  put  the  Celery  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season  it  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Add  some  white  broth  to  cover  it, 
then  cover  the  saucepan  and  put  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  cook.  When 
the  moisture  is  reduced,  and  the  Celery  well  cooked,  add  one  pint 
of  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce.  Rub  it  all  through  a  fine  sieve,  then 
put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  and  add  a  cup  of  cream  to  reduce  it  to 
its  proper  consistency,  stirring  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Add 
a  small  piece  of  butter  before  serving. 

CELERY,  WITH   WHITE   OR  BROWN   SAUCE. 

No.  471. — When  the  Celery' is  cleaned,  cut  the  tender  parts  in 
pieces  half  an  inch  long.  Parboil  them  for  five  minutes,  then  im- 
merse them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Then  put 
the  Celery  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season  it  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Then  cover  the  sauce- 
pan and  let  the  Celery  simmer  for  ten  minutes,  not  letting  it  get 
brown.  Then  moisten  it  with  white  broth,  letting  it  reduce  so  as 
to  glaze  the  Celery  lightly.  Then  add  Espagnole,  Allemande  or 
Cream  sauce,  as  may  be  desired. 

CELERY   SALAD. 

No.  472. — When  the  Celery  is  trimmed  and  washed,  cut  it  in 
short,  thick  Juliennes.  Season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  oil, 
and  add  some  chives,  chopped  fine.  Mix  it  all  well  together,  and 
when  ready  for  use  dress  it  in  a  salad  bowl  and  garnish  with  sliced 
tomatoes  or  beets,  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

NOTE.— 'When  Celery  is  used  in  chicken  or  lobster  salad,  cut  it  in  fine  slices.  It  will  preserve 
salad  better  than  lettuce,  when  the  salad  is  kept  a  length  of  time  before  using. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  103 

CELERY  BROTH. 

No.  473. — Clean  and  wash  four  heads  of  Celery,  then  cut  them  in 
pieces  three  inches  long.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  gallon 
of  water.  Let  it  boil  slowly  until  the  broth  is  reduced  to  one  quart, 
and  then  strain  it  through  a  napkin.  Drink  it  warm  or  cold.  This 
is  a  very  good  beverage  for  nervousness. 

CELERY  SOUP   PUREE,  SPANISH    STYLE. 

No.  474. — Clean  and  wash  six  heads  of  Celery  and  trim  off  all  of 
the  green  parts.  Cut  the  tender  parts  in  small  pieces,  one  inch 
long,  mixed  with  two  celery  roots  sliced  fine.  Parboil  them  for  five 
minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  and  dry  them. 
Then  put  the  Celery  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Cover  the  sauce- 
pan and  let  it  simmer  until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  add  two 
quarts  of  white  broth  and  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished  with  leeks 
and  green  onions.  Let  it  boil  until  the  Celery  is  well  cooked,  and 
then  add  one  gallon  of  thickened  veal  or  chicken  broth.  Let  it  all 
boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  then  take  out  the  faggot  and  strain  the 
soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  to 
keep  warm.  When  ready  to  serve,  add  a  pint  of  cream,  diluted 
with  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs,  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  some 
parsley  chopped  fine.  Mix  this  all  well  together  off  from  the  fire  until 
the  butter  is  melted.  Add  some  small  fried  bread  crumbs  before 
serving. 

CELERY   CREAM   SOUP. 

No.  475. — Prepare  the  celery  the  same  as  in  No.  474,  and  when 
it  is  thoroughly  cooked  in  the  broth  add  three  quarts  of  Cream 
sauce.  Rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan 
to  keep  it  warm.  Before  serving  it,  add  half  a  pound  of  butter  in 
small  pieces,  stirring  it  all  well  until  the  butter  is  thoroughly 
merged  in  the  soup.  Also  add  some  chervil  chopped  fine.  The 
soup  must  not  be  too  thick.  Farina  or  vermicelli,  cooked  in  white 
broth,  may  be  added. 

CELERY  PUREE,  PRESERVED. 

No.  476. — Clean  and  trim  six  heads  of  Celery,  using  only  the 
white,  tender  part,  and  four  Celery  roots.  Slice  them  all  in  small 
pieces  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan.  Cover  them  with  boiling  water 
and  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  salt.  Cover  the  saucepan  and 
let  them  cook  until  tender.  Then  rub  the  puree  through  a  fine 


104  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

sieve  and  put  it  in  pint  tin  cans.  Solder  on  the  covers  and 
boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 
When  it  is  to  be  used,  finish  it  with  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce. 

PRESERVED  CELERY. 

No.  477. — Prepare  one  dozen  heads  of  Celery,  cut  them  in  pieces 
•six  inches  long,  and  parboil  them  for  five  minutes.  Immerse  them 
in  cold  water,  and  then  drain  and  dry  them.  Put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  one  gallon  of  water.  When  it  boils,  add  to  it  three 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  diluted  in  cold  water,  and  also  add  the  juice  of 
three  lemons  and  a  little  salt.  When  it  is  half  cooked  take  it  off 
of  the  fire  and  let  it  get  cold.  Then  take  out  the  Celery,  one 
piece  at  a  time,  and  dip  them  in  lukewarm  water  to  clean  them. 
Then  arrange  them  in  tin  cans  (same  as  asparagus),  and  pour 
over  them  some  cold-boiled  water,  lightly  salted.  Add  the  juice 
of  one  lemon  in  each  can.  Solder  on  the  cover,  boil  the  cans  in 
a  hot  water  bath  for  two  hours. 

CELERY   PRESERVED   IN   BRINE. 

No.  478. — Prepare  the  Celery  and  then  cut  each  head  in  pieces 
six  inches  long.  Parboil  them  until  they  are  three-quarters  cooked, 
then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  then  drain  and  dry  them  on  a 
napkin.  Put  them  in  an  earthen  jar  and  cover  them  with  a  brine 
at  18  or  20  degrees  (sugar  weight),  when  cold.  Cover  the  jar,  and 
in  two  days  remove  the  brine  and  put  on  the  fire  to  boil.,  Add  more 
salt,  to  bring  it  to  the  same  degree  as  before.  When  it  is  cold, 
pour  it  over  the  Celery  to  cover  it  well.  Put  the  cover  on  the  jar 
tight  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place.  When  ready  for  use  soak  the 
Celery  in  fresh  water  for  several  hours,  and  prepare  it  as  required. 

CELERY  VINEGAR. 

No.  479. — Cut  four  heads  of  Celery  in  small  pieces.  Put  them  in 
an  earthen  jar  with  four  ounces  of  Celery  seed,  one  ounce  of  pulver- 
ized white  sugar,  and  half  an  ounce  of  salt.  Pour  two  quarts  of 
boiled  vinegar,  when  hot,  over  this.  Cover  the  jar,  and  in  two 
weeks  strain  it  through  a  filter.  Then  put  it  in  bottles  and  cork 
well. 

CELERY  FLAVOR. 

No.  480. — Put  two  ounces  of  Celery  seed  in  a  quart  bottle  and  fill  it 
with  brandy.  Cork  it  tight  and  let  it  lay  for  two  weeks,  when  it 
will  be  ready  for  use. 


THE    PHYSIOLOGY    OF  TASTE.  105 


ARTICLE 


French  CENTAURY.  German 

Centaure'e.  Tausendgiildenkraut. 

No.  481. — This  is  a  small  annual  herbaceous  plant,  which  grows 
wild.  It  is  about  a  foot  high,  having  a  branching  stem  which 
divides  above  into  pairs,  and  bears  oval,  smooth  pointed  leaves, 
direct  from  the  stem.  The  flowers  are  rose  colored.  The  herb  has 
no  odor,  but  has  a  strong  bitter  taste,  and  its  tonic  properties  are 
similar  to  those  of  gentian.  It  is  used  in  cases  of  dyspepsia  and 
fever.  The  roots  make  a  valuable  yellow  dye.  The  flowers  are 
gathered  in  bunches,  hung  in  a  dark,  airy,  warm  room,  and  when 
thoroughly  dried  are  kept  in  boxes,  in  a  dry  place.  They  are  used 
in  diet  drinks  (tisanes),  see  Article  LXXXII. 


ARTICLE;  XLVI. 


CHAMOMILE. 

Camomille.  Camomile. 

No.  482. — The  single  and  double  flowering  Chamomile  are  propa- 
gated by  slips,  with  a  few  of  the  small  roots  attached,  both  kinds 
being  claimed  as  hardy  perennials.  In  the  Northern  States  the 
plants  are  frequently  destroyed  by  severe  frost.  The  single  Chamo- 
mile, though  considered  more  efficacious  for  medicinal  purposes,  is 
not  cultivated  as  much  as  tlie  double  flowering  variety.  They  may 
be  grown  from  leaves  or  slips.  The  leaves,  when  cut  fine  and 
burned,  emit  a  peculiar,  pungent  odor.  The  flowers,  which  are  the 
parts  generally  used,  are  in.  high  repute,  both  in  the  popular  and 
scientific  materia  medica,  and  give  out  their  properties  by  infusion  in 
either  water  or  alcohol.  The  flowers  are  also  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  bitter  beer,  and  along  with  wormwood  are  used  to  a  certain 
extent  as  a  substitute  for  hops.  It  is  considered  a  safe  bitter  and 
tonic,  though  strong  infusions,  when  taken  warm,  act  sometimes  as 
an  emetic. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  483. — Chamomile  flourishes  best  in  light  poor  soil,  and  is 
generally  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  and  setting  them  in  rows 
that  are  a  foot  apart  with  the  plants  ten  inches  from  each  other. 
They  grow  fast  and  soon  entirely  cover  the  ground. 


106  HARDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLE: 


French  CHERVIL.  German 

Cerfeuil.  Gartenkerbel. 

No.  434. — Chervil  is  an  aromatic  plant  that  is  used  for  aroma- 
tizing certain  dishes,  bat  should  be  used  with  moderation  in  soups 
and  salads. 

CULTURE.  * 

No.  485. — Sow  it  thinly  in  May  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep  and 
one  foot  apart. 

TUBEROUS   ROOTED. 

No.  436. — Sow  this  variety  in  April  and  treat  it  the  same  as  car- 
rots. 


ARTICLB  XLVIII. 


CHESTNUT. 

Chataigne.  Kaslanle. 

No.  487. — The  Chestnut  is  the  fruit  of  the  chestnut  tree.  It 
contains  a  large  proportion  of  sugary  matter,  and  is  eaten  either 
green  or  roasted.  It  is  used  as  a  garniture  with  braized  meats,  and 
can  be  added  to  all  kinds  of  forced  meats  and  to  stuffing  for  turkeys, 
capons,  geese,  and  chickens.  Confectioners  use  chestnuts  to  a  large 
extent.  They  rarely  keep  through  the  season.  All  first-class 
grocers  keep  them  in  a  preserved  state. 

SOUP-PUREE  OF   CHESTNUTS, 

No.  488. — Roast  six  dozen  large  chestnuts,  and  then  put  them  in 
boiling  water  to  peel  off  the  inner  skin.  Put  them  in  the  sauce- 
pan, with  enough  broth  to  cover  them.  Cover  the  pan  and  let 
them  cook  slowly  until  tender,  and  then  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Put  them  back  in  the  saucepan  and  add  one  gallon  of  thickened 
chicken  or  veal  broth.  Set  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon  until  it  boils.  Then  add  a  glass  of  Madeira  wine  and  season 
to  taste.  Set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour 
and  then  skim  it  well.  Then  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  after 
which  put  it  back  in  a  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  When  ready  to 
serve  it  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  garniture  of  asparagus  tops. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  107 

SOUP-CREAM   OF   CHESTNUTS,    HUNTER'S   STYLE. 

No.  489. — Prepare  the  Chestnuts  as  in  No.  488.  Put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  moisten  with  enough  broth  to 
cook  them.  Then  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  this  puree 
in  a  saucepan  with  one  gallon  of  thickened  game  broth.  Mix  it 
well,  stirring  it  until  it  boils,  and  season  it  to  taste.  Let  it  boil 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes  and  then  take  off  the  grease.  Strain  it 
into  another  saucepan  through  a  fine  sieve.  When  ready  to  serve 
put  sis  ounces  of  butter  and  six  ounces  of  puree  of  partridge  (diluted 
with  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs,  and  a  pint  of  cream),  into  another 
saucepan  and  then  pour  the  puree  in  slowly  while  stirring  it.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  let  it  boil  or  else  it  will  curdle. 

SOUP  GARBURE  WITH  CHESTNUTS,  POLIGNAC. 

No.  490. — Peel  three  dozen  large  Chestnuts,  then  pour  over  them 
some  boiling  water  to  peel  off  the  inner  skin.  Line  the  bottom  of  a 
saucepan  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  put  on  top  of  this  three  pounds 
of  veal  trimmings.  Add  three  raw  onions,  in  which  stick  six  cloves, 
then  add  three  carrots,  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  celery, 
in  which  tie  two  bay  leaves  and  a  few  grains  of  pepper.  Lay  the 
Chestnuts  over  this  and  cover  the  whole  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork. 
Moisten  this  with  good  broth,  to  cover  it,  and  let  it  simmer  until 
well  cooked.  Then  take  out  the  Chestnuts  and  split  each  one  in  half. 
Then  put  in  a  deep  baking  dish  a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  toasted  bread, 
then  a  layer  of  the  Chestnuts,  and  keep  on  alternating  this  way  until 
the  dish  is  full.  Strain  the  broth  that  the  Chestnuts  were  cooked 
in,  and  pour  some  over  it  and  set  it  in  an  oven  to  gratinate.  Serve 
with  a  soup  tureen  of  good  consomme. 

PUREE   OF    CHESTNUTS. 

No.  491. — Peel  two  pounds  of  Chestnuts,  and  pour  over  them 
some  lightly  salted  boiling  water,  to  peel  off  the  inner  skin.  Then 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  toss  them  over 
the  fire  a  few  minutes.  Then  moisten  them  with  a  glass  of  white 
wine  and  some  broth.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  cook  until 
tender.  Then  take  them  all  out  and  pound  them  through  a  colan- 
der, and  rub  them  through  a  fine  seive.  Put  the  puree  in  a 
saucepan  to  keep  warm,  and  before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter 
and  a  soup-spoonful  of  meat  glaze.  This  may  be  served  as  a  garni- 
ture. When  served  as  a  vegetable,  garnish  the  puree  with  sausages 
cliipolata. 


10S  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

GLAZED   CHESTNUTS. 

No.  492. — Roast  two  pounds  of  Chestnuts;  peel  them  and  re- 
move the  inner  skin.  Put  them  in  a  frying-pan  Avith  half  a  pint  of 
water  and  two  ounces  of  sugar.  Let  them  boil  until  the  moisture 
is  reduced  and  the  chestnuts  are  nicely  glazed.  Add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  toss  them  over  well.  Then  roll  them  lightly  in  pow- 
dered suuar. 


XLIX. 


French  CHICK    PEA,    OR    EGYPTIAN     PEA.  Ccrnmn 

Chiche.  Chich. 

No.  493. — The  Chick  Pea  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  originally  from 
the  south  of  Europe.  The  stem  is  about  three  feet  high,  erect 
and  branching.  The  pods  are  about  an  inch  long,  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  Avide,  and  are  somewhat  rhomboidal  in  shape,  being 
inflated  or  bladder-like,  and  containing  three  globular,  Avrinkled, 
pea-like  seeds.  The  peas,  though  not  very  digestible,  are  employed 
for  soup  in  purees,  and  are  sometimes  roasted  and  ground  and  mixed 
with  the  common  variety  of  coffee. 

CULTURE. 

No.  494. — So\v  in  April,  in  the  same  manner  as  garden  peas. 
The  drills  should  be  three  feet  apart,  and  the  seed  sown  an  inch 
and  a  half  deep.  Keep  the  ground  free  from  weeds,  and  harvest 
before  the  complete  maturity  of  the  seeds. 

RED   CHICK   PEA. 

No.  495. — This  is  a  variety  Avith  red  or  brownish-red  seeds. 

WHITE  CHICK  PEA. 

No.  496. — Similar  to  the  common  Arariety  in  size,  but  has  white 
seeds.  % 

YELLOW   CHICK   PEA. 

No.  497 — This  variety  has  yellow  seeds,  and  is  much  used. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  109 


L. 


French         CHICKLING  WITCH,  OR  SPANISH  LENTIL.        German 

Gesse.  Gesse. 

No.  498. — This  is  principally  cultivated  for  its  seeds,  the  flour 
from  which  is  mixed  with  wheat  flour  or  rye,  and  made  into  bread. 
The  seeds  are  irregularly  shaped  and  of  a  dun  or  brownish  color, 
having  a  pleasant  flavor.  They  are  sown  at  the  same  time  and  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  taller  kinds  of  garden  peas. 


ARTICLE:  LI. 


CHICCORY,  OR   SUCCORY. 

Chiccoree.  Cigorien. 

No.  499. — Chiccory  is  extensively  used  by  Germans  as  a  substitute 
for  coffee,  and  large  quantities  of  the  prepared  root  are  annually 
exported  to  this  country  for  a  similar  purpose.  It  is  also  prepared 
in  this  country  now. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  500. — Chiccory  is  cultivated  the  same  as  carrots.  In  the  fall 
the  roots  should  be  taken  up  and  cut  in  small  pieces  and  put  where 
they  will  dry.  Dry  them  the  same  as  you  would  dry  apples.  When 
required  for  use  it  should  be  roasted  and  ground  like  coffee. 


ARTICLE  LII. 


CHINESE  SPINACH. 

Amarante.  Amaranth, 

No.  501. — This  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  originally  from  China. 
The  stems  are  three  feet  high,  having  many  branches  that  are  pro- 
lific with  green  leaves  variegated  with  red.  They  are  long  and 
sharply  pointed.  The  leaves  are  used  in  the  same  manner  as  spin- 
ach and  resemble  it  in  taste.  Sow  them  in  April  in  good  garden 
soil,  and  they  will  yield  abundantly  during  most  of  the  summer. 


110  HABDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY, 

ARTICLE  LI  1 1. 


French  CHINESE  YAM,    OR   POTATO.  German 

Igname.  Yam-wurzd. 

No.  502. — This  is  a  most  valuable  esculent,  little  known  in  this 
country.  It  grows  rapidly  and  has  creeping  habits.  The  flowers, 
which  are  white  and  grow  in  clusters,  have  a  cinnamon  fragrance. 
The  root  is  of  a  pale  russet  color,  oblong,  regularly  rounded,  and 
globe  shaped,  being  largest  at  the  lower  end.  The  flesh  is  remark- 
ably white  and  very  rnucillaginous  in  its  good  state.  When  boiled 
or  roasted  they  possess  a  rice-like  taste.  They  are  quite  farina- 
ceous and  nutritive,  being  much  whiter  and  finer  grained  than  our 
potatoes. 


ARTICLE  LIV. 


CHIVES,  OR  WELSH  ONION. 

Cice  ou  Civette.  Hohllauch. 

No.  503. — The  Welsh  Onion  is  a  hardy  perennial,  said  to  have 
originated  in  Siberia.  It  is  quite  distinct  from  the  common  onion 
as  it  forms  no  bulbs,  but  produces  numerous  elongated,  angular 
tunicated  stems,  not  unlike  scullions  or  the  smaller  variety  of  leeks. 
The  young  stems  and  leaves  are  used  during  winter  and  spring  as 
salad. 

COMMON  OR  RED  WELSH   ONION. 

No.  504. — The  skin  or  pellicle  is  of  a  reddish  -  brown  color, 
changing  to  a  silvery  white  about  the  base  of  the  leaves.  The  plant 
is  about  a  foot  high  and  is  hardy  and  early. 

WHITE   WELSH   ONION. 

No.  505. — This  is  a  sub-variety  of  the  common  red  onion.  The 
skin  is  rose-white  and  changes  to  silver-white  at  the  upper  portion 
of  the  stem.  The  leaves  are  longer,  deeper  in  color,  firmer  and  less 
liable  to  wither  and  decay  than  the  common  variety.  The  upper 
part  of  the  stem  is  considered  better  and  more  tender,  and  has  a 
milder  flavor  than  other  varieties,  though  it  is  less  productive. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  Ill 


ARTICLE 


French  COMMON     CHIVES.  ternian 

Ciboulette.  Schnittlauch. 

No.  506. — The  Chive  is  a  hardy,  bulbous-rooted  perennial  plant. 
The  leaves,  which  are  produced  in  tufts,  are  seven  or  eight  inches 
long,  erect  and  cylindrical  in  shape.  The  young  leaves  are  the  parts 
of  the  plant  used,  and  to  keep  them  in  a  fresh  and  tender  condition 
the  plants  should  be  frequently  shorn  to  the  ground.  They  possess 
the  flavor  peculiar  to  the  onion  family,  and  are  principally  used  as 
an  ingredient  in  soups  and  spring  salads.  For  omelets  the  Chive  is 
considered  almost  indispensable.  ( See  omelet  with  herbs.) 

CULTURE. 

No.  507.— As  the  plant  seldom,  if  ever,  produces  seeds,  it  is 
always  propagated  by  a  division  of  the  roots  or  bulbs.  The  bulbs 
are  planted  in  May,  two  or  three  together,  in  rows  15  inches  apart, 
and  covered  three  inches  deep.  They  require  little  attention,  and 
increase  rapidly.  If  not  cut  to  excess,  a  plant  will  continue  for 
vears. 


ARTICLE  LVI. 


CHUFA,    OR    EARTH    NUT. 

Glun  de  terre.  Erdnus. 

No.  508. — This  is  a  perennial  plant  that  originated  in  the  south 
of  Europe.  The  roots  are  long  and  fibrous,  and  produce  at  their 
extremities  numerous  oblong,  jointed,  pale  brown  tubers,  about  the 
size  of  a  filbert.  The  flesh  of  the  tubers  is  tender,  having  a  yellowish 
color,  and  a  pleasant,  sweet,  nut-like  flavor.  When  the  tubers  are 
dried  they  taste  somewhat  like  almonds,  and  keep  a  long  time. 
When  dried  and  pulverized,  they  impart  to  water  the  color  and 
richness  of  milk.  They  are  eaten  raw  or  roasted. 

CULTURE. 

No.  509. — They  succeed  well  in  California.  Plant  the  tubers  in 
April,  two  inches  deep,  in  drills  two  feet  apart.  They  will  be  ready 
for  harvesting  in  October. 


112  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLE  LVII. 


CICELY  SWEET,  OR  SWEET-SCENTED  CHERVIL. 

French  German 

Cerfeuil  adorant.  Spanish  Kerbel. 

No.  510. — This  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant  that  is  not  cultivated 
to  any  extent.     It  is  aromatic,  but  is  seldom  used  for  seasoning. 


ARTICLE;    LVII  I. 


CINNAMON. 

Cannelle.  Zimmet. 

No.  511. — The  tree  which  produces  the  Cinnamon  is  supposed  to 
have  come  originally  from  the  Island  of  Ceylon,  and  is  called  the 
Cinnamon  tree,  or  Kerandee,  by  the  natives  there.  The  leaves  are 
similar  to  the  bay  leaves,  and  have  the  same  flavor  as  the  tree.  The 
Cinnamon  is  the  second  peeling  of  the  tree  and  is  thin  and  smooth. 
It  is  of  a  yellowish  red  color,  and  has  an  agreeable,  sweet  and 
piquant  flavor.  It  is  largely  used  by  pastry  cooks  and  confection- 
ers and  for  various  culinary  purposes,  both  in  sticks  and  ground. 
Cinnamon  is  also  cultivated  in  Tonquin,  but  only  in  the  King's 
domain.  Cinnamon  flavor  mixes,  and  tastes  better,  with  prepara- 
tions made  with  milk  than  any  other  flavor. 


ARTICLE:  LIX. 


CLARY. 

Sclaree.  Scharlei. 

No.  512. — The  leaves  of  this  plant  are  sometimes  used  for  flavoring 
certain  soups.  They  impart  a  strong  peculiar  flavor,  agreeable 
to  some  but  unpleasant  to  most  persons.  It  has  some  of  the 
properties  of  common  sage,  and  is  occasionally  sold  and  used  as  a 
substitute  for  it.  It  is  rarely  cultivated. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  113 


LX. 


French  CLAVARIA    (a    variety    Of  Mushrooms).  German 

Champignon.  Champignon. 

No.  513. — There  are  several  varieties  of  this  fungus,  all  of  which 
are  edible  and  many  are  indigenous  to  our  woods,  being  found  in 
damp,  shady  places.  For  its  preparation  see  Mushrooms. 


ARTICLE  LXI. 


CLOVES. 

Gerojle.  Nelken. 

No.  514. — Cloves  are  principally  used  for  culinary  purposes,  and 
also  by  confectioners  and  distillers.  As  their  flavor  is  very  strong 
they  should  always  be  used  in  moderation.  In  the  Indies  they 
make  a  jelly  of  the  green  fruit,  which  is  exported  in  large  quanti- 
ties to  this  country.  It  is  highly  esteemed  there  and  very  expen- 
sive here. 


ARTICLE;  LXI  I. 


COCOA. 

Coco  ou  Cocoa.  Cacao. 

No.  515. — Cocoa  is  the  fruit  of  the  Cocoa  tree,  which  grows  in 
abundance  in  South  America.  The  tree  is  about  the  size  of  a 
chestnut  tree,  and  produces  ribbed  pods,  which  contain  from  25  to 
50  seeds,  which  resemble  ground  almonds,  and  are  covered  with  a 
dry  pelicule.  They  have  a  bitter  taste.  There  are  several  different 
varieties,  namely,  those  of  Caracas,  of  Ceylon,  of  Berbiche,  of  Saint 
Madelaine,  and  of  Saint  Domingo  islands.  They  all  differ  in  size 
and  flavor.  The  best  are  those  from  Caracas,  being  lightly  flattened 
and  resembling  our  broad  beans.  The  next  best  are  those  from 
St.  Madelaine  and  Berbiche.  It  is  less  flattened  than  the  Caracas 
variety,  and  its  pelicule  is  covered  with  a  fine,  ash-colored  powder. 
The  other  varieties  are  much  more  bitter  and  oily,  and  are  mostly 
8 


Ill  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

used  to  make  the  Cocoa  Butter.  The  germ  of  the  Cocoa  is  always 
at  the  thick  end,  while  iii  our  almonds  it  is  at  the  small  end.  The 
Cocoa  of  Caracas,  St.  Madelaine  and  Berbiche,  mixed  in  equal 
quantities,  makes  the  best  quality  of  chocolate.  This  mixture  gives 
an  unctuous,  oleaginous  matter  which  chocolate  should  always 
possess.  If  chocolate  is  made  simply  from  the  Caracas  Cocoa  it 
will  be  too  dry,  while  that  made  from  the  others  alone  would  be  too 
oily  and  bitter.  Hence,  the  combination  mentioned  is  necessary. 
After  the  Caracas  beans  are  picked  they  are  buried  in  the  ground 
for  four  or  six  weeks,  which  causes  them  to  lose  some  of  their 
bitter  taste.  Care  must  be  taken  or  they  will  have  an  exceedingly 
moisty  flavor.  The  Caracas  Cocoa,  mixed  with  the  others,  always 
makes  the  best  chocolate. 

The  cocoa,  broma  and  chocolate  we  drink  are  made  from  Cocoa. 
When  made  into  chocolate,  it  is  ground  into  a  paste  and  mixed  with 
sugar,  etc.  There  are  several  grades,  some  for  eating,  some  for 
candies  and  creams,  and  some  for  beverages.  Cocoa  and  broma  are 
more  healthful  as  a  breakfast  beverage  than  chocolate,  as  the  latter 
is  too  rich. 

GROUND    COCOA. 

No.  516. — Dilute  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ground  Cocoa,  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  water.  Then  put  it  in  a  small  saucepan  and  moisten  it 
with  three  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk  or  water.  Stir  it  well  and  let  it 
boil  five  minutes.  Then  sweeten  it  to  taste. 

SHELL    COCOA. 

No.  517. — Put  two  ounces  of  half-broken  Cocoa  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  quart  of  boiling  water.  Let  it  boil  slowly  for  half  an 
hour,  or  until  half  of  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Add  a  little  milk  if 
desired  and  sweeten  to  taste.  This  is  preferred  by  people  whose 
stomachs  are  deiicate. 

BROMA. 

No.  518. — This  is  made  the  same  as  Cocoa. 

CHOCA. 

No.  519. — Take  a  cup  of  chocolate,  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a  cup  of 
cream,  and  mix  them  well  together.  This  makes  a  delicious  bev- 
erage. 

PLAIN   CHOCOLATE. 

No.  520. — Scrape  o-r  break  two  ounces  of  Chocolate  in  small 
pieces.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  two  table- spoonfuls  of  boiling 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  115 

water,  stirring  it  until  it  is  melted.  Then  add  two  cupfuls  of  hot 
boiled  milk.  Sweeten  to  taste.  As  soon  as  it  commences  to  boil, 
take  it  off  of  the  fire  and  serve. 

POT  CHOCOLATE. 

No.  521. — The  best  Chocolate  is  made  in  a  pot  expressly  made 
for  this  purpose,  in  which  there  is  a  silver  whisk.  Put  four  cup- 
fuls of  milk  or  water  in  a  chocolate  pot.  (Or  put  one  ounce  of 
Chocolate  to  one  cup  of  milk.)  When  the  milk  boils  add  the  fine 
grated  Chocolate.  When  the  Chocolate  is  melted  and  well  mixed, 
set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  for  ten  minutes  to  keep  warm.  Then 
take  the  whisk  between  the  palms  of  both  hands  and  make  it  revolve 
backwards  and  forwards  briskly  until  the  Chocolate  is  whipped  to  a 
froth.  Then  serve. 

CHOCOLATE,  WITH  EGGS  OR   CREAM. 

No.  522. — Grate  four  ounces  of  Chocolate,  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  four  soup-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  it  until  it  is 
melted.  While  stirring  it,  add  in  slowly  five  cupfuls  of  boiling 
milk.  Let  it  boil  up  once,  then  sweeten  it  to  taste,  and  set  it  on 
the  side  of  the  fire  to  keep  warm.  Have  ready  the  whites  of  four 
eggs,  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Add  half  of  this  quantity  to  the 
Chocolate,  mixing  it  well.  Sweeten  the  remaining  half  of  the  eggs 
with  powdered  sugar.  Serve  the  Chocolate  in  cups,  with  a  spoonful 
of  the  sweetened  egg  froth  on  top. 

NOTE. — Chocolate  can  be  made  as  above,  with  cream  instead  of  eggs.  Add  the  cream  when  the 
Chocolate  is  ready  to  serve,  having  it  whipped  to  a  froth  and  flavored  with  vanilla. 

Stir  it  well  when  you  put  it  in,  so  the  hot  Chocolate  will  warm  it, 
without  letting  it  boil. 

NOTE. — Chocolate  can  be  made  with  water  or  milk,  or  with  both,  mixed  in  equal  quantities.  This 
is  merely  a  matter  of  taste,  as  some  prefer  it  with  water  and  others  with  milk  or  cream.  When 
sweetened  Chocolate  is  used,  no  sugar,  or  very  little,  should  be  added,  as  the  delicate  flavor  is  des- 
troyed when  too  sweet.  Sweeten  plain  Chocolate  to  taste.  Never  keep  Chocolate  on  the  fire  boiling. 

ADULTERATED   CHOCOLATE. 

No.  523. — Chocolate  is  often  adulterated  J3y  unprincipled  manu- 
facturers, which  makes  it  a  most  vile  compound  instead  of  the 
nutritious  beverage  intended.  They  use  small,  common  Cocoa,  first 
extracting  the  Cocoa  butter,  and  then  mix  with  the  remaining  Cocoa 
a  quantity  of  grilled  sweet  almonds.  They  also  use  the  refuse  of 
coarse  brown  sugar  in  place  of  pure  sugar,  and  as  a  substitute  for 
vanilla  they  use  common  storax,  which  is  the  sawdust  of  the  Tonqua 


116  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

tree;  but  persons  experienced  in  flavor  will  detect  the  difference 
immediately.  Impure  Chocolate  is  also  adulterated  with  butter, 
potato  flour,  starch,  and  other  heterogeneous  substances. 


LXIII. 


French  COFFEE.  German 

Cafe.  Kafee. 

No.  524. — Coffee  is  produced  on  a  small  bushy  tree.  The  flowers 
are  odorous,  and  the  fruit  jelly-like,  having  two  seeds.  Coffee  is 
said  to  have  originated  in  Arabia,  but  is  now  cultivated  in  different 
parts  of  the  world.  The  Arabian  historian,  Ahmet  Effeudi,  wrote 
that  Coffee  was  first  used  in  Arabia  in  the  fifteenth  century.  The 
Egyptians  prepare  a  drink  with  Coffee  which  the  Arabs  call  Kawa. 
Coffee  was  introduced  in  France  by  the  Venetians  in  1657,  after 
which  its  use  became  universal.  There  are  five  principal  varieties 
of  Coffee.  The  Mocha  is  considered  the  best,  and  is  divided  in 
three  classes  —  namely,  the  Baouri,  which  is  the  best  and  is  hardly 
ever  obtainable  in  this  country,  as  it  is  reserved  for  the  highest 
classes  in  Arabia  and  Turkey;  the  Saki  and  the  Salabi.  The  Coffee 
from  Martinique,  Java,  Bio  and  Guadaloupe,  is  considered  next  best 
in  quality.  The  grades  from  Santa  Domingo,  Costa  Bica,  and  all 
other  kinds,  are  of  inferior  qu  ility.  Coffee  is  now  in  use  all  over 
the  civilized  world,  and  is  largely  adulterated  with  the  chiccory 
root,  especially  when  ground.  For  this  reason  Coffee  should  always 
be  procured  in  beans  and  ground  when  required.  It  will  keep  its 
flavor  better  in  this  way.  Adulterated  Coffee  was  first  used  in  1808, 
during  the  campaign  of  Napoleon.  The  dealers,  seeing  the  large 
profit  that  could  be  made  by  combining  chiccory  with  Coffee, 
adopted  it,  and  even  claimed  that  chiccory  improved  Coffee,  which 
is  not  so.  Most  of  the  ground  Coffee  now  prepared  and  sold  by 
unscrupulous  dealers  is  adulterated  with  chiccory,  ground  peas  and 
common  Coffee  beans.  Coffee  beans  are  roasted  in  Coffee  roasters 
that  can  be  purchased  from  dealers.  It  is  better  to  buy  Coffee 
beans  in  their  green  state  as  their  quality  can  then  be  better  distin- 
guished than  when  roasted.  The  interior  of  the  Coffee  roaster  is 
round,  and  the  beans  when  being  turned  in  the  receptacle  will  roll 
over  and  over,  and  thus  get  evenly  roasted  on  the  surface  of  the  hot 
roller.  Commence  to  roast  the  Coffee  over  a  slow  fire,  so  it  Avill  be 
gradually  and  thoroughly  browned,  which  will  take  place  in  about 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  117 

forty-five  minutes.  When  ifc  is  browned  take  it  out  of  the  roaster 
and  spread  it  on  a  blanket.  It  will  then  emit  an  agreeable  odor. 
Turn  it  occasionally  to  cool  it}  and  when  cold  put  it  in  jars  corked 
tight  and  grind  it  when  needed.  The  Mocha  Coffee  has  the  best 
flavor,  and  is  generally  mixed  with  Java  or  Bio.  This  makes  the 
best  black  Coffee.  The  Coffee  from  Martinique  and  Costa  Rica, 
when  mixed,  is  the  best  to  use  when  milk  is  added.  Coffee  when 
ground  is  made  by  infusion.  French  and  American  coffee  pots  are 
so  well  known  that  no  description  of  them  is  necessary.  Either  can 
be  used.  Coffee  should  always  be  made  fresh,  and  care  should  be 
taken  to  have  the  water  to  the  boiling  point  before  it  is  poured  over 
the  Coffee.  Coffee  should  not  remain  long  in  tin  pots,  as  it 
contains  an  ingredient  that  combines  with  tin  or  iron,  and  imparts  a 
disagreeable  flavor  when  it  lays  for  any  length  of  time.  For  this 
reason  when  large  quantities  are  made  at  a  time  it  should  be  kept  in 
earthen  jars.  When  Coffee  is  left  over,  after  a  meal,  always  put  it 
in  an  earthen  jar  to  use  the  following  day. 

Coffee  is  now  made  as  it  Avas  years  ago.  The  Orientals  do  not 
strain  it.  They  boil  it  with  the  sugar  in  and  serve  it  in  cups,  sus- 
pended below  a  punctured  shell,  called  fitzyanes.  Coffee  made  and 
served  in  this  manner  does  not  excite  the  nerves  as  when  made  in  the 
French  or  American  styles,  but  the  latter  modes  are  considered  the 
best.  When  using  a  French  coffee  pot  the  boiling  water  has  to 
drain  through  the  ground  Coffee  and  runs  clear  immediately. 
Hence  it  is  unnecessary  to  clarify  it.  When  it  is  boiled  in  a  sauce- 
pan and  clarified  with  eggs  or  other  substances,  it  loses  much  of  its 
strength  and  flavor.  Some  physicians  advance  the  theory  that 
Coffee  is  injurious  to  health,  but  this  is  a  fallacy,  when  it  is  used  in 
moderation.  A  certain  gourmet  of  advanced  years,  yet  in  robust 
health,  was  in  the  habit  of  imbibing  a  cup  of  Coffee  after  every 
meal.  One  evening  while  at  dinner  in  the  Palace  Hotel  with  his 
friend,  a  well-known  physician,  the  latter  remarked  casually  that 
Coffee  was  a  slow  poison,  and  urged  the  gourmet  to  discontinue  its 
use. 

"Well,"  remarked  the  gourmet,  with  a  sly  twinkle  in  his  eye, 
"  I  agree  with  you  on  that  point,  but  I  must  say  that  it  is  terrible 
slow,  for  I  have  been  using  it  continuously  for  the  past  seventy 
years,  and  am  still  alive  and  well."  The  doctor  then  subsided. 

REMARKS   ON   MIXING   COFFEE. 

No.  525. — Coffee  is  easy  to  make,  but  must  be  made  with  care. 
The  principal  point  is  not  to  have  your  Coffee  beans  ground  or 
roasted  too  long  before  vising,  and  to  always  use  good  Coffee.  To 
one  pound  of  Mocha  add  two  pounds  of  Java,  or  use  one  pound 


118  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

of  Mocha,  one  pound  of  Java,  and  one  pound  of  Costa  Rica  or  Rio. 
These  mixtures  make  the  best  Coffee.  Coffee  is  made  best  in  the 
so-called  French  coffee  pots,  which  are  made  for  large  or  small 
quantities.  AVhen  boiling  Coffee,  the  aroma  evaporates  to  a  con- 
siderable extent,  which  does  not  occur  in  French  c  >ffee  pots. 
Ground  Coffee  should  never  be  boiled  when  it  can  be  done  other- 
wise. Always  use  boiled  milk  or  warm  cream  with  Coffee,  as  cold 
milk  injures  the  taste  of  the  Coffee.  Black  Coffee,  or  cafe  noir, 
is  always  taken  after  dinner,  and  should  be  made  stronger  than 
breakfast  Coffee.  It  is  served  with  brandy,  kirschwasser  or  rum, 
which  is  put  in  the  Coffee,  or  first  burnt  with  sugar,  as  m&y  be 
desired.  It  is  called  brulo.  It  facilitates  digestion  and  excites  the 
faculties  of  the  mind. 

COFFEE   FOR   FAMILY   USE. 

No.  526. — To  make  ordinary  breakfast  Coffee,  use  four  ounces  of 
ground  Coffee  to  one  quart  of  boiling  water.  When  using  the  French 
coffee  pot,  put  the  Coffee  in  the  upper  vessel  with  the  strainer  over 
it.  Pour  a  little  of  the  boiling  water  over  it  slowly,  and  in  five 
minutes  pour  over  the  rest  of  the  water  until  it  is  all  in  the  bottom. 
Keep  the  pot  in  a  warm  place,  not  letting  the  Coffee  boil.  Take 
about  three  cupfuls  of  the  Coffee  out  of  the  bottom  and  strain  it 
through  the  top  again.  Repeat  this  once  more,  as  it  makes  the 
Coffee  stronger,  and  then  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

When  making  Black  Coffee  for  after  dinner,  use  more  Coffee  or 
less  water  to  make  it  strong. 

BOILED  COFFEE,  No.  1. 

No.  527. — When  no  French  coffee  pot  is  used,  the  Coffee  must  be 
boiled  in  a  saucepan  and  strained  through  a  double  thickness  of 
flannel.  When  making  Coffee  in  large  quantities  in  a  saucepan,  put 
five  pounds  of  ground  Coffee  in  a  saucepan,  two  fresh  raw  eggs,  and 
a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Mix  it  all  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  then  pour  in,  slowly  at  first,  five  gallons  of  boiling 
water,  stirring  it  at  the  same  time.  Then  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  and 
as  the  Coffee  rises  to  the  top  press  it  down  with  a  spoon.  Let  it 
boil  up  once,  and  then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  keep  warm, 
not  letting  it  boil.  Drop  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water  over  the  top, 
in  drops,  and  the  Coffee  will  settle  immediately.  Do  this,  if  in  a 
hurry,  otherwise  it  will  settle  naturally  in  five  or  ten  minutes. 
Strain  it  all  through  a  double  thickness  of  flannel,  and  it  is  ready 
for  use. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY    OF   TASTE.  119 

BOILED  COFFEE,  No.  2. 

No.  528. — When  using  a  boiler  (in  which  there  is  a  faucet  three 
inches  from  the  bottom,  with  a  fine  strainer  inside ),  and  the  Coffee 
is  made  as  in  No.  1,  it  need  not  be  strained  through  flannel.  Set 
it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  keep  the  Coffee  warm,  and  put  a  piece 
of  iron  under  the  boiler  to  keep  it  a  distance  away  from  the  fire. 
Then  sprinkle  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water  over  the  top,  put  the 
cover  on  tight,  and  in  ten  minutes  run  the  Coffee  out  until  it  runs 
clear.  Then  you  will  pour  it  back  in  the  boiler.  After  this  it  will 
all  run  perfectly  clear  if  not  allowed  to  boil. 

COFFEE,  GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  529. — Mix  one  quart  of  made  Coffee  and  one  quart  of  boiled 
milk,  and  boil  them  together.  This  will  impart  a  pleasant  flavor  to 
the  Coffee. 

ESSENCE   OF   COFFEE,    FOR    CREAMS. 

No.  530. — Mix  half  a  pound  of  Mocha  and  half  a  pound  of  Java, 
and  pour  over  it  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Cover  the  saucepan  tight 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  ten  minutes.  Then  strain  it 
through  a  French  coffee  pot,  pouring  it  through  the  strainer  twice 
again.  When  cold  put  the  Coffee  in  bottles,  and  use  it  as  needed. 

COFFEE   ICE. 

No.  531. — Take  a  small  cup  of  Coffee  and  put  it  in  a  tumbler  with 
the  same  quantity  of  water  and  a  lump  of  ice.  Sweeten  it  a 
little.  This  makes  a  delightful,  refreshing  summer  beverage,  which 
will  be  greatly  appreciated  at  a  light  luncheon. 


ARTICLE  LXIV. 


French  COLT'S-FOOT,    COMMON.  German 

Tussilaye.  Huflattich. 

No.  532. — This  is  a  hardy,  herbaceous  perennial  plant.  The 
leaves  are  small,  radical,  roundish  and  heart-shaped,  and  from  five  to 
seven  inches  in  diameter.  The  plants  blossom  in  February  or  March, 
before  the  appearance  of  the  leaves,  and  often  while  the  ground  is 
frozen  and  covered  with  snow.  The  leaves  are  the  parts  of  the 


120  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

plant  used,  and  are  generally  cut  in  July  and  September.  In  drying, 
spread  them  singly  in  an  airy,  shaded  situation,  but  do  not  expose 
them  to  the  sun.  They  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  colds  and  pulmon- 
ary complaints. 

CULTURE. 

No.  533. — Colt's  Foot  thrives  best  in  rich,  moist  soil.  It  may  be 
propagated  from  seeds,  but  is  generally  cultivated  by  dividing  its 
long,  creeping  roots. 


ARTICLE  LXV. 


French  CORIANDER.  German 

Coriandre.  Kori^nder. 

No.  534. — Coriander  is  a  hardy,  annual,  aromatic  plant,  that  is 
cultivated  for  its  seeds,  which  have  an  agreeable  taste,  and  are  used 
by  confectioners  and  distillers,  and  by  druggists  to  disguise  the 
taste  of  medicine.  When  young,  the  leaves  are  used  the  same  as 
chervil. 

CULTURE. 

No.  535. — Sow  them  early  in  spring.  When  gathering  them  for 
the  seeds,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  bruise  the  stems  or  leaves, 
as  when  bruised  they  have  a  disagreeable  odor,  which  is  imparted 
to  the  seeds.  They  should  be  gathered  on  a  dry  day. 


ARTICLE  LXVI. 


CORN    POPPY,  OR  COQUELICOT. 

Ci  qiielic<,t.  Die  Kornroke. 

No.  536^— This  is  a  red  flower,  which  grows  wild  in  corn  fields. 
The  petals  are  separated  and  spread  out  to  dry  when  they  are 
gathered.  Separate  them  if  they  adhere  to  each  other.  When  well 
dried,  put  them  in  a  dark,  dry  place.  They  are  used  for  diet  drinks 
(tisanes.) 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  121 


ARTICLE  LXVII 


CORN  SALAD,  OR  LAMB  LETTUCE.  German 

Mache.  Li/mmeraalat. 

No.  537. — This  small  salad  is  used  during  winter  and  spring  as  a 
substitute  for  lettuce.  It  is  also  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as 
spinach.  The  Corn  Salad  that  grows  natural  is"  better  than  that 
which  is  cultivated.  It  is  used  in  salads,  and  when  mixed  with 
beets  and  celery  it  improves  it  as  a  breakfast  salad. 

CULTURE. 

No.  538. — Sow  the  seed  during  August  or  September,  in  shallow 
drills  about  one  foot  apart.  If  the  soil  is  dry  it  should  be  pressed 
firmly  over  the  seed  in  order  to  secure  prompt  germination.  Cover 
them  with  straw  upon  the  approach  of  severely  cold  weather.  The 
plants  will  also  do  well  if  grown  in  spring,  and,  like  most  salad 
plants,  are  greatly  improved  if  grown  in  very  rich  soil.  The 
ground  can  scarcely  be  made  too  rich  for  them.  In  warm  weather 
the  plants  will  mature  in  from  four  to  six  weeks. 

CORN  SALAD. 

No.  539. — Wash  the  Salad  in  plenty  of  cold  water.  Then  drain 
it  and  put  it  on  a  salrad  dish  and  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and 
vinegar.  Parsley  or  chives,  chopped  fine,  may  bo  added  if  desired. 

CORN   SALAD,    WITH   BEETS. 

No.  540. — Prepare  the  Salad  the  same  as  in  No.  539.  Add  some 
cold  boiled  sliced  beets.  Handle  it  carefully.  This  is  a  good 
breakfast  Salad. 

CORN   SALAD,    WITH   CELERY. 

No.  541. — Cut  the  celery  in  a  small  Julienne,  and  prepare  as  in 
No.  539.  Endives  or  watercress  can  also  be  added. 


122  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLK  LXVIII. 


Frcnc!i  CORN.  Ciernian 

Mais.  Mais,  or  Korn, 

No.  542. — The  garden  variety  of  Corn  for  t  ible  use,  is  distinct 
from  the  field  Corn  variety.  It  is  much  relished  in  this 
country,  especially  so  when  used  in  its  fresh  state.  When  dried,  it 
is  cracked  and  ground  into  hominy,  of  which  there  are  several 
kind-s,  which  are  much  used  for  breakfast,  either  boiled  or  fried. 
It  is  ground  into  meal  (white  and  yellow),  which  is  used  for 
making  bread  and  cakes.  It  is  delicious  when  used  as  a  mush  with 
milk  or  cream.  Corn  starch  is  made  from  Corn,  and  is  much 
used  for  custards,  cream  and  various  other  pastry  preparations. 
It  is  also  a  healthy  nourishment  for  invalids  and  infants,  and  may 
be  used  for  all  preparations  for  which  arrow  root  is  used. 

CULTURE. 

No.  543. — A  rich,  warm,  alluvial  soil  is  best,  and  before  planting 
it  should  be  as  deeply  and  thoroughly  worked  as  possible.  Culti- 
vate it  deeply  and  thoroughly  as  soon  as  the  plants  appear,  and 
then  every  few  days  until  it  tassels.  Thorough  cultivation  and 
warm  rich  soil  are  the  key  notes  to  success. 

EARLY  MARBLEHEAD. 

No.  544. — This  is  the  best  and  earliest  sweet  corn,  and  is  of 
excellent  quality.  The  stalks  are  short,  having  many  suckers  from 
the  root.  The  ears  are  long,  but  of  medium  width,  with  only  a  few 
husks.  The  cob  is  red  and  the  kernels  are  small,  broad  and  shallow, 
of  a  white  color,  sometimes  tinged  with  red.  They  must  be  cooked 
quickly  in  boiling  water,  because  the  red  cob  will  color  the  grain  if 
it  is  allowed  to  simmer  over  a  slow  fire,  or  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
water  after  being  cooked. 


DOLLY   BUTTON. 

No.  545. — The  stalks  are  very  short,  with  but  few  suckers.  The 
ears  are  small  and  straight  and  well  covered  with  husks.  This  is 
the  smallest  kind  in  cultivation. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  123 

EXTRA  EARLY  ADAMS. 

No.  546. — Nearly  as  early  as  the  Dolly  Dutton,  but  inferior  in  qual- 
ity. Will  succeed  in  the  South  where  others  fail.  The  stalks  are 
very  short,  with  no  suckers.  It  bears  a  single,  very  full,  round 
short  ear.  It  is  well  covered  with  husks,  and  the  kernels  are  white 
and  smooth. 

EARLY   MINNESOTA. 

No.  547. — This  is  later  than  the  Adams  best.  An  old  and  popu- 
lar variety.  The  stalks  are  short  and  not  suckering,  bearing  one  or 
two  ears  well  covered  with  husks.  Ears  long,  and  pointed.  Kernels 
very  broad,  sweet  and  tender.  It  does  net  shrink  much  in  drying. 

EARLY   RED   NARAGANSETT. 

No  548. — One  of  the  best  red  varieties  of  sugar  corn  grown.  The 
kernels  are  much  shriveled,  and  exceedingly  sweet  and  tender.  It 
is  esteemed  as  one  of  the  very  best  table  varieties. 

CROSBY'S  EXTRA  EARLY. 

No  549. — A  most  excellent  variety,  with  ears  of  large  size  and 
medium  length  ;  sweet,  rich,  and  delicate. 

RUSSELL'S  EARLY  PROLIFIC  SUGAR. 

No  550. — This  comes  into  use  a  few  days  after  the  Crosby,  and  is 
of  excellent  quality.  It  is  very  productive,  and  one  of  the  best 
kinds  for  family  use. 

EARLY   SWEET   SUGAR. 

No.  551. — The  ears  are  of  good  size,  tender,  and  sugary.  The 
plant  is  productive,  hearty,  and  quite  early. 

MOORE'S   EARLY   CONCORD    SWEET. 

No.  552. — This  has  large,  full  ears.  The  quality  is  unexcep- 
tionable. It  is  valuable  as  an  intermediate  variety. 

BLACK   MEXICAN. 

No.  553. — Although  the  ripe  grain  is  black  or  bluish-black,  the 
corn,  when  in  condition  for  the  table,  cooks  remarkably  white,  and 
is  surpassed  by  none -hi  tenderness. 


124  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EXCELSIOR. 

No.  554. — This  is  the  best  quality  of  the  second  early  sorts,  and 
the  best  for  general  crop.  Stalks  medium,  bearing  from  three  to 
six  small  curved  ears,  which  are  filled  out  to  the  end  with  broad, 
white  kernels,  that  cook  exceedingly  sweet  and  tender. 

AMBER   CREAM. 

No.  555. — The  stalk  is  very  vigorous.  It  is  very  productive,  hav- 
ing large  ears  and  long  kernels.  It  is  deep,  rich,  and  sugary, 
varying  in  color  from  light  red  to  white. 

TRIUMPH. 

No.  556. — The  stalks  are  large,  with  large  ears  of  fine  quality.  It 
is  the  earliest  of  the  very  large  sorts  and  is  highly  esteemed  for 
canning  purposes. 

EGYPTIAN  SWEET. 

No.  557. — A  variety  noted  for  its  productiveness  ;  the  stalks 
having  from  two  to  four  ears  each.  It  is  peculiarly  adapted  for 
canning,  and  in  consequence  of  its  sweetness  and  tenderness,  its 
superiority  is  noticeable. 

MAMMOTH   SWEET. 

No.  558. — This  variety  produces  the  largest  ears  of  any  sort,  a 
single  ear  weighing  from  two  to  three  pounds.  The  quality  is  excel- 
lent, sweet,  tender,  and  delicious.  For  family  use  it  cannot  be 
excelled. 

STOWELL'S  EVERGREEN  SWEET. 

No.  559. — This  variety  is  intermediate  in  its  season,  and  if  planted 
at  the  same  time  as  the  early  kinds,  will  keep  the  table  supplied 
until  October.  It  is  hardy  and  productive,  very  tender  and  sugary. 

BURLINGTON   EARLY   ADAMS. 

No.  560. — An  excellent  early  field  variety,  and  often  used  for  the 
table,  particularly  in  the  South.  Ears  eight  inches  long,  with 
twelve  or  fourteen  rows.  The  kernels  are  white  and  rounded,  some- 
what deeper  than  broad,  and  indented  at  the  outer  end,  which  is 
whiter  and  less  transparent  than  the  inner. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  125 

EARLY   CANADA. 

•  No.  561. — A  very  early,  yellow  variety,  much  grown  in  Canada, 
and  good  for  localities  where  the  seasons  are  short,  or  where  first 
planting  has  failed. 

LACKAWAXEN. 

No.  562. — This  i-i  a  white  flint,  eight-rowed  variety,  with  very  large 
and  deep  grains.  There  are  usually  two  ears  to  a  stalk.  It  completes 
its  growth  in  ninety-five  days,  and  is  considered  very  prolific. 

EARLY  WHITE  FLINT. 

No.  563. — This  is  an  excellent,  productive  variety,  with  ears  of 
good  size,  pearly  white,  and  of  a  beautiful  appearance.  Much  used 
for  making  hominy. 

LARGE   RED   BLAZED,  EIGHT-ROWED. 

No.  564. — An  excellent  variety  for  field  culture,  with  large  ears, 
well  filled  out  at  the  top  and  end.  Its  color  is  yellow,  splashed 
with  red  at  the  point. 

EARLY   GOLDEN   DENT. 

No.  565. — This  is  a  variety  as  early  as  the  flint  sorts,  and  is  highly 
recommended  for  general  use.  The  stalks  are  of  medium  size,  with 
very  broad  leaves.  The  ears  are  short  and  are  always  filled  to  the 
point.  The  cob  is  small,  and  the  kernels  are  long  and  yellow.  It 
makes  a  good  meal. 

CHESTER   COUNTY    MAMMOTH. 

No.  566. — A  large,  late  variety,  very  popular  in  Pennsylvania.  A 
sure  and  hardy  cropper,  but  will  not  mature  well  in  the  extreme 
Northern  States.  It  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  Dent  varieties.  The 
stalk  is  large,  bearing  one  or  two  very  large  ears.  Kernels  narrow, 
very  long,  and  deep  yellow.  Cob  very  small. 

BLUNT' s  PROLIFIC. 

No.  567. — This  is  one  of  the  most  prolific  varieties  grown.  The 
ears  are  short  and  well  shaped,  averaging  three,  and  frequently 
running  as  high  as  eight  to  a  stalk.  The  kernel  is  white,  of  the 
general  form  of  the  Dent  variety,  but  harder,  and  makes  an  extra 
quality  of  pure,  white  meal.  It  is  not  early,  and  will  not  do  well  at 
the  extreme  North. 


126  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

RICE  CORN,  FOR  PARCHING. 

No.  568. — This  is  a  very  handsome  variety,  that  is  exceedingly 
prolific,  and  is  used  entirely  for  parching,  being  superior  to  all 
others  for  this  purpose.  The  ears  are  short  and  the  kernels  are 
long,  pointed  and  white,  resembling  rice  in  appearance. 

BOILED   GREEN    CORN. 

No.  569. — Take  the  husks  off  of  the  Corn,  break  off  the  stem, 
remove  all  the  threads  and  the  upper  end.  Put  them  to  boil  in 
boiling  water,  lightly  salted,  and  let  them  boil  until  tender.  Serve 
in  a  napkin  with  butter,  separately. 

NOTE.— When  the  Corn  is  to  be  kept  for  some  little  time  after  it  is  cooked,  it  is  always  best  to  add 
some  boiled  milk  to  the  water. 

CORN,  WITH  MILK  OR  CREAM. 

No.  570. — When  the  Corn  is  boiled  as  in  No.  569,  cut  the  Corn 
from  the  ear,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  moistened  with  milk  or  cream, 
seasion  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  the  moisture  is  nearly  re- 
duced, add  a  piece  of  butter,  tossing  it  over  well  until  the  butter  is 
melted.  Then  serve  it. 

STEWED   GREEN   CORN. 

No.  571. — Cut  the  grains  from  six  ears  of  Corn,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  quart  of  boiling  water  and  cook  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Then  drain  off  most  of  the  water  and  add  half  a  pint  of  milk. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  add  an  ounce  of  butter,  with  which 
mix  a  teaspoonful  of  flour.  Stir  the  Corn  until  the  butter  is  dis- 
solved, and  let  it  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes. 

CORN,    WITH  BEANS. 

No.  572. — When  the  Corn  is  boiled  as  in  No.  569,  cut  it  from  the 
ears  and  add  one-half  or  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  string  beans,  cut 
in  diamond  shape,  or  green  flageolet  beans,  cooked  separately. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  with  a  little  milk  or  cream, 
and  when  thoroughly  warmed  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

SUCCOTASH. 

No.  573. — Succotash  is  made  with  Corn  and  small  Lima  beans, 
using  two  parts  of  Corn  to  one  part  of  beans.  Cut  the  grain  off  of '<• 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  127 

one  dozen  ears  of  Corn,  and  shell  the  beans.  Put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  add  a  little  salt  and 
cook  them  until  they  are  tender.  Then  drain  off  half  of  the  moist- 
ure and  add  the  same  quantity  of  boiled  milk.  Knead  a  spoonful 
of  flour  in  a  piece  of  butter  and  add  it  with  the  milk.  Let  it  all 
simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally,  so  that  the 
mixture  will  not  adhere  to  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan.  Season  it 
with  salt  and  pepper. 

NJTE.— Green  flageolet  or  string  beans  may  be  used  instead  of  Lima  beans,  the  string  beans 
should  be  cut  in  pieces,  one  inch  long. 

CORN,    WITH   TOMATOES. 

No.  57-4. — Cut  the  grains  from  one  dozen  ears  of  Corn  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  an  equal  quantity  of  peeled  tomatoes  cut 
into  square  pieces.  Let  them  cook  until  the  tomatoes  are  well 
cooked  and 'the  moisture  nearly  reduced.  Season  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

CORN  FRITTERS. 

Fo.  575. — Cut  the  grains  from  six  ears  of  Corn  and  put  them  into 
a  saucepan,  moistening  them  with  a  little  cream,  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Let  it  all  simmer  until  reduced 
of  its  moisture,  then  set  it  off  of  the  fire  to  cool.  Make  a  batter 
with  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  milk  and  eggs — not  too  thin.  Add  it 
to  the  Corn,  mixing  it  well.  Have  in  a  frying  pan  some  hot  lard. 
Then  fill  a  soup-spoon  with  the  Corn  batter  and  drop  it  into  the  lard 
(not  too  much  at  a  time).  Fry  them  until  nicely  browned  on  both 
sides,  drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  serve  them  with  fried  parsley  to 
garnish. 

NOTE. — When  using  a  batter  like  that  used  in  Queen  fritters,  it  will  make  the  fritters  more 
delicious. 

GREEN  CORN  CAKES. 

No.  576. — Grate  the  corn  from  one  dozen  ears  and  put  it  into  a 
bowl,  adding  one  pint  of  milk,  four  ounces  of  melted  butter  and  six 
raw  eggs.  Mix  the  whole  well  together.  Season  to  taste  and  add 
flour  enough  to  make  a  light  batter.  Bake  the  same  as  you  would 
buckwheat  or  Corn  cake. 

CANNED  CORN,  HOW  TO  PREPARE. 

No.  577. — Canned  corn  may  be  had  of  all  grocers  the  whole  year 
round.  Open  the  can,  put  the  corn  into  a  saucepan  and  moisten 


128  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

it  with  milk  or  cream.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a 
piece  of  butter,  tossing  it  well  over  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve 
hot. 

NOTE. — Any  of  the  preparations  given  above  for  green  corn,  may  also  be  made  of  canned  corn. 

ROASTED  CORN. 

No.  578. — Turn  back  the  husk,  pick  out  the  silk  threads,  re-cover 
the  ear  with  the  husk,  and  roast  it  in  the  hot  ashes  of  a  wood  fire. 
Serve  it  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  An  excellent  and  easy  mode 
of  cooking  corn  for  campers. 

SOUP — CREAM   OF   CORN. 

No.  579. — Cut  the  grains  from  one  dozen  good-sized  ears  of  corn. 
Put  them  into  a  saucepan  to  cook,  with  three  pints  of  boiling 
water,  one  onion,  a  faggot  of  celery,  and  a  leek.  Season  witli  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  When  the  corn  is  cooked 
add  two  quarts  of  cream  sauce.  Let  it  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  remove  the  onion  and  faggot,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  and  serve 
hot. 

NoTa.— The  soup,  when  prepared  as  above,  may  be  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  put  back  into 
a  saucepan,  to  keep  warm,  and  before  serving  add  half  a  pint  of  cream,  into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of 
six  raw  eggs.  Put  into  a  soup  tureen  some  fine  chopped  parsley  or  chives,  and  on  this  pour  the 
soup. 

CORN  CHOWDER. 

No.  580. — Cut  one  pound  of  fat  pork  in  small  pieces,  and  put  them 
in  a  saucepan.  When  they  are  nicely  fried  remove  the  pieces  and 
put  four  finely  sliced  onions  in  the  hot  fat.  When  they  are  fried, 
add  one  gallon  of  hot  water,  letting  it  boil  until  the  onions  are 
thoroughly  cooked,  when  you  will  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then 
peel  one  dozen  potatoes,  slice  them  fine,  and  cut  the  same  quantity 
of  green  corn  from  the  cob.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan,  in  layers, 
sprinkle  each  layer  lightly  with  flour,  and  sen  son  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Then  pour  the  above  strained  broth  over  the  layers,  cover 
the  saucepan  and  set  on  the  fire  to  boil  for  thirty  minutes.  By  this 
time  the  corn  and  potatoes  should  be  cooked.  Then  add  one 
quart  of  boiled  milk,  a  piece  of  butter  and  some  crackers,  split  in 
half  and  soaked  in  cold  water.  Pat  the  cover  on  the  saucepan  and 
cook  the  chowder  ten  minutes  longer. 

HULLED   CORN. 

No.  581. — Hulled  corn  can  be  procured  from  dealers,  and  is  best 
during  the  fall  and  winter.  Its  attractiveness  lays  in  its  snowy  white- 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OP  TASTE.  129 

ness.  Put  the  quantity  desired  into  a  saucepan,  with  milk  to  cover, 
set  it  on  the  fire  and  season  it  lightly,  with  salt  only.  Let  it  simmer 
slowly.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  it  scorch,  and  when  it  is 
cooked  add  a  good  sized  piece  of  butter.  Serve  separately  with  a 

pitcher  of  cream  and  a  bowl  of  sugar. 

« 

BOILED   COARSE   HOMINY. 

No.  582. — Soak  the  Hominy  in  cold  water  over  night,  and  in  the 
morning  drain  off  the  water  and  put  the  Hominy  into  a  saucepan 
with  fresh  water.  Let  it  cook  slowly,  and  occasionally  stir  it  with 
a  wooden  spoon.  Season  it  with  salt,  and  when  cooked  drain  it  in 
a  colander.  Then  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  and  season  it  with 
salt  and  white,  pepper,  and  add  a  good  sized  piece  of  butter.  Then 
stir  the  Hominy  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and 
moisten  it  with  a  little  hot  milk  or  cream. 

NOTE.— This  Hominy  may  be  served  as  a  dinner  vegetable,  or  with  cream  and  sugar. 

i 

FINE   HOMINY. 

No.  583. — Fine  Hominy  is  mostly  used  for  breakfast  and  luncheon, 
and  a  pot  of  cream  ought  always  to  be  served  with  it. 

Soak  two  pounds  of  Hominy  over  night,  and  when  it  is  ready  to 
cook,  have  in  a  saucepan  six  quarts  of  boiling  water,  lightly  salted, 
into  which  put  the  Hominy  slowly,  while  stirring  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  Let  it  boil  slowly,  occasionally  stirring  it  from  the  bottom, 
until  it  is  well  cooked,  and  when  cooked  it  should  be  similar  to 
mush.  If  found  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  hot  water  or  milk,  and 
serve  with  butter,  cream  and  sugar. 

FRIED  HOMINY. 

No.  584. — Cook  the  Hominy  as  in  No.  583,  only  have  it  thicker. 
When  it  is  well  cooked  put  it  into  square,  buttered  pans,  about  two 
inches  thick,  and  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  When  cold,  cut  the 
Hominy  in  slices  and  dip  them  into  beaten  eggs,  diluted  with  a  little 
milk.  Then  Hour  them  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter.  It  is 
occasionally  served  with  roast  wild  ducks. 

HOMINY   CROQUETTES, 

No.  585. — Put  into  a  saucepan  one  pound  of  hot  boiled  Hominy. 

Stir  it  off  the  fire  until  nearly  cold,  and  be  very  careful  to  have  no 

lumps.     Add  a  piece  of  butter,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  the  yolks 

of  four  raw  eggs.     Have  the  whole  well  mixed,  then  roll  them  on 

9 


130  HABDER'S  AMERICAN   COOKERY. 

the  table  into  croquettes,  then  dip  into  beaten  eggs  and  then  into- 
fresh  bread  crumbs.     Shape  them  nicely  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 

BAKED   HOMINY. 

No.  586. — Put  into  a  saucepan  one  pound  of  hot-boiled  Hominy, 
stirring  it  until  nearly  cold.  Then  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and 
the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  When  the  whole  is  well  mixed,  add  in 
slowly  half  a  pint  of  cold  milk  and  sweeten  it  to  taste.  Then  beat 
the  whites  of  four  eggs  into  a  stiff  froth,  and  mix  the  froth  gently 
into  the  Hominy.  Then  put  it  into  deep,  buttered  dishes,  and  bake 
gently  until  nicely  browned. 

CORN   MEAL. 

No.  587. — Corn  Meal  is  finely  ground  corn,  it  is  also  called  Indian 
Meal.  There  are  two  kinds  of  Corn  Meal,  the  white  and  the  yellow. 
The  -best  variety  of  white  Corn  Meal  is  made  from  Blunt' s  prolific 
corn,  and  the  best  variety  of  the  yellow  is  made  from  the  Golden 
Dent  variety.  Mush  is  generally  made  from  the  latter  kind.  Corn 
Meal  is  also  used  for  making  a  great  variety  of  bread  and  cakes, 
which  will  be  fully  described  in  the  Book  on  Pastry.  It  is  also 
used  for  making  gruels,  soups,  etc.,  for  infants  and  invalids,  as  it 
is  considered  very  nutritious  and  healthful. 

BOILED   MUSH. 

No.  588. — Have  in  a  saucepan  four  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
Season  it  with  a  spoonful'  of  salt.  Pour  into  the  water  slowly  three- 
pounds  of  the  Corn  Meal,  stirring  it  slowly  with  a  wooden  spoon 
until  it  thickens.  Then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly, 
occasionally  stirring  it  well  up  until  it  is  well  cooked.  When 
cooked,  serve  it  with  fresh  butter,  cream  or  milk. 

NOTE. — This  can  be  made  of  yellow  or  white  Meal;  the  yellow  is,  however,  generally  preferred. 

FRIED   MUSH. 

No.  589. ^-Prepare  a  Mush  as  in  No.  588,  and  when  it  is  cooked 
add  a  piece  of  butter  and  mix  it  well.  Then  pour  the  Mush  into  a 
buttered,  square  pan,  about  two  inches  thick.  Cover  this  with  a 
buttered  paper,  so  as  to  prevent  the  Mush  from  having  a  crust,  and 
when  cold  cut  it  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Then  dip 
the  slices  into  beaten  eggs,  and  after  flouring  them,  fry  them  in 
clarified  butter.  Drain,  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE,  131 

CORN   MEAL   GEUEL. 

No.  590. — Have  in  a  saucepan  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and 
while  the  water  boils  drop  into  it  half  a  pound  of  Corn  Meal, 
stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  it  boils  steadily.  Then  set  it 
on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  slowly  for  one  hour.  Season  it  with  a 
little  salt.  A  little  wheat  flour  may  be  added,  while  cooking,  and 
it  may  also  be  sweetened  with  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  a  little  nutmeg. 
This  may  be  served  as  it  is,  or  may  be  strained  and  may  be  cooked 
with  milk  or  broth. 

POULAINTA,  OE   CORN   MEAL  WITH   CHEESE. 

No.  591. — Poulainta  is  an  Italian  preparation,  which  is  nourishing 
and  healthful,  and  is  used  by  the  Italians  as  we  use  corn  meal  mush. 
Put  two  quarts  of  water  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  boils  add  salt 
and  a  piece  of  butter.  Then  put  the  Corn  Meal  in  slowly,  stirring 
it  all  the  time  (so  it  will  not  get  lumpy),  until  it  commences  to 
thicken.  Then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly,  stirring 
it  up  from  the  bottom  occasionally.  When  it  is  cooked  add  half  a 
pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  a  piece*of  butter,  mix  it  well 
together.  Serve  in  a  large  dish,  with  a  beef  gravy  reduced  with 
Tomato  sauce  and  flavored  with  the  essence  of  dry  mushrooms. 
Serve  a  tureen  of  consomme  with  it. 

POULAINTA,  WITH   GAME. 

No.  592. — Prepare  the  Poulainta  as  in  No.  591,  and  when  it  is 
cooked  put  it  on  a  large  dish,  making  a  hollow  space  in  the  center. 
(Prepare,  separately,  two  dozen  reed  birds.)  Put  the  birds  in  a 
frying-pan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  toss  them  over  the  fire,  and  when 
nearly  cooked  add  some  fine  herbs,  and  then  cook  them  thoroughly. 
Put  the  birds  in  the  center  of  the  Poulainta.  Put  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
gravy  in  the  pan,  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  then  pour  it  over  the  birds. 

CRUSTS  OF  POULAINTA,  MILANAISE   STYLE. 

No.  593. — Cook  one  pound  of  yellow  Corn  Meal  in  six  pints  of 
water,  the  same  as  in  No.  591.  Keep  it  stiff,  and  when  cooked  add 
six  ounces  of  butter  and  four  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Mix 
it  all  well  and  put  it  in  a  buttered  tin  pan,  about  two  inches  deep. 
When  it  is  cold,  turn  the  mush  out  of  the  pan  and  cut  it  with  a 
round  cutter  into  pieces,  about  the  size  of  a  dollar  in  circum- 
ference. With  a  smaller  cutter  make  an  impression  on  the 
top  of  each  piece,  and  then  fry  them  in  hot  lard.  When  nicely 


132  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

colored  drain  them.  Then  take  the  cover  off  of  each,  and  hollow 
out  the  center,  not  breaking  the  crust,  and  set  them  in  the  oven 
to  dry. 

Put  the  yolks  of  five  raw  eggs  in  a  saucepan,  dilute  them  with  half  a 
pint  of  cream.  Add  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  Gruyere  or  American 
cheese,  cut  in  small,  thin  pieces,'  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Set  it  on 
the  fire  and  stir  it  with  a  small  whisk  until  the  cheese  is  melted. 
Then  add  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  cheese,  and  keep  stirring 
it  until  melted.  Do  not  let  it  boil.  Fill  the  crusts  with  the  prepara- 
tion and  serve  them  hot. 

NOTE.— For  other  (Poulaintas)  Corn  Meal  Farina  see  Article  Farina. 

CORN  GRIDDLE  CAKES — COMMON  CORN  CAKES. 

No.  594. — Put  into  a  bowl  one  quart  of  sour  or  buttermilk,  one 
tablespoonful  of  soda,  a  little  salt,  and  add  enough  flour  to  make  a 
nice  batter.  Bake  immediately. 

BATTER  CAKES. 

No.  595. — To  one  quart  of  milk  add  enough  white  Corn  Meal,  with 
one  handful  of  wheat  flour,  to  make  a  light  batter.  Put  with  this 
four  spoonfuls  of  yeast  and  a  little  salt,  and  when  it  is  all  well  mixed 
gather  it  together  and  cover  it  with  a  cloth,  so  as  to  let  it  raise  over 
night.  In  the  morning  add  one  ounce  of  melted  butter  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  hot  water.  Mix  well  together  and 
then  bake. 

FLANNEL  CAKES. 

No.  596. — To  one  quart  of  milk  add  enough  Corn  Meal  to  make  a 
light  batter.  Put  with  this  four  spoonfuls  of  yeast  and  a  little  salt. 
When  it  is  well  mixed  cover  it  with  a  cloth  to  raise  it  over  night. 
•In  the  morning  add  an  ounce  of  melted  butter  and  four  well  beaten 
eggs.  Mix  them  well  together  and  then  bake. 

FLAP  JACKS,  OR  TRIMMED  LACE. 

No.  597. — Put  into  a  bowl  one  pound  of  Corn  flour.  Make  a 
hollow  in  the  center  and  add  one  ounce  of  melted  butter  and  two 
spoonfuls  of  molasses  or  brown  sugar.  With  this  put  one  quart  of 
hot  milk,  mix  it  together,  and  cover  it  with  a  cloth  and  let  it  stand 
in  a  warm  temperature  overnight.  In  the  morning  add  the  yolks  of 
four  raw  eggs,  four  ounces  of  wheat  flour  and  a  little  salt.  Mix 
them  well  up,  and  if  the  batter  should  be  too  thick  add  a  little  cold 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  133 

milk.     Then  add  in,  gently,  the  whites  of  the  eggs  (beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth),  and  bake. 

CORN   STARCH. 

No.  598. — Com  Starch  is  the  fecula  of  Corn,  and  is  used  for  all 
the  purposes  for  which  arrow  root  is  used  in  cooking.  It  is  also 
much  preferable  to  arrow  root  for  alimentary  purposes.  It  is  used 
in  creams,  custards,  blanc  mange,  and  a  numberless  variety  of  cakes 
and  fritters.  It  is  also  delicious  for  thickening  certain  soups  and 
sauces,  instead  of  flour,  as  it  keeps  them  clear  and  transparent. 
Though  many  preparations  made  with  Corn  Starch  are  not  as  succu- 
lent as  when  made  in  their  original  styles,  especially  will  this  be 
found  to  be  the  case  with  creams,  blanc  mange,  etc.  It  often 
happens  that  when  articles  are  made  of  Corn  Starch  which  are  too 
stiff,  or  which  are  not  well  cooked,  they  retain  a  starchy  taste.  It 
is  very  nutritious  for  infants  and  invalids,  when  boiled  in  milk  or 
made  into  custards.  The  recipes  will  be  found  in  their  respective 
places  in  the  Books  on  Soups,  Sauces  and  Pastries. 


ARTICLE  LXIX. 


French  COUCH   GRASS.  German 

t'hiendent.  Queckenyrass. 

No.  599. — Couch  Grass  is  a  medicinal  plant,  of  which  there  are 
several  varieties.  The  root  is  the  portion  of  the  plant  used  in 
tisanes  (diet  drinks)  and  other  decoctions. 

Culture  same  as  other  pot  herbs.     See  Article  V. 


ARTICLE  LXX. 


COS  LETTUCE,  OR  ROMAINE. 

Romaine.  Bind  Salat,  or  Furellen  Salat. 

No.  600. — The  Romaine,  or  Cos  L  >ttuce,  of  which  there  are  sev- 
eral varieties,  is  one  of  the  most  crisp  and  refreshing  salads  grown. 
(See  article  on  Lettuce.)  Its  leaves  are  long,  narrow  and  of  a  dark 


134  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

green  color.  It  stands  the  heat  well,  and  should  be  tied  up  to 
blanch  a  week  or  ten  days  before  cutting.  It  is  used  as  a  salad  the 
same  as  ordinary  lettuce,  and  is  also  boiled  and  prepared  in  the 
same  way  as  spinach.  It  is  braised  and  stuffed  the  same  as  lettuce. 


ARTICLE  LXXI. 


French  COSTMARY,    OR  ALECOST.  German 

Tannisie  Barbodine.  Frauenmunze. 

No.  601. — Costmary  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant  with  a  creeping 
root,  and  an  erect,  branching  stem  from  two  to  three  feet  in  height. 
The  radical  leaves,  which  are  produced  on  long  footstalks,  are  oval, 
serrated  and  of  a  grayish  color.  Those  of  the  stalks  are  smaller 
than  the  radical  ones  but  similar  in  form.  The  plant  has  a  soft, 
agreeable  odor,  and  is  sometimes  used  as  a  pot  herb  for  flavoring 
soups.  The  leaves  are  used  in  salads  and  also  for  flavoring  ale  or 
beer. 

CULTURE. 

No.  602. — Costmary  may  be  cultivated  in  almost  any  soil.  It  is 
generally  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots,  which  increase  rapidly. 
It  should  be  planted  in  spring  or  autumn.  Set  them  two  feet  apart 
in  each  direction. 


ARTICLE   LXXI  I. 


CRANBERRY. 

Canneberge.  Moosbeere. 

No.  603. — The  Cranberry  is  a  trailing  shrub,  which  grows  wild 
in  swampy  meadows  and  on  the  borders  of  inland  lakes.  It  can  be 
improved,  however,  by  planting  in  any  moist  soil  that  is  thoroughly 
manured  with  decayed  manure.  When  cultivated  in  this  way  the 
berries  will  be  larger  and  of  better  flavor,  and  the  yield  will  be 
more  abundant.  The  berries  are  round,  of  a  reddish  color,  and 
have  an  aciduous  flavor.  There  are  several  varieties.  The  bell- 
shaped  is  the  largest,  having  a  dark-red  color.  The  cherry  variety 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  135 

comes  both  large  and  small,  the  large  kind  being  preferred.  The 
color  is  dark-red,  and  it  is  considered  next  in  excellence  to  the 
bell-shaped.  The  oval  or  egg-shaped  Cranberry  comes  large  and 
small  also.  It  is  a  good  variety,  but  not  as  profitable  as  the  others. 

CULTURE. 

No.  604. — Procure  the  plants  with  their  natural  earth  and  plant 
them  earlj-  in  spring,  four  feet  apart,  in  moist  sandy  soil,  well 
manured. 

CRANBERRY   SAUCE. 

No.  605. — Pick  one  pound  of  Cranberries  and  wash  them  in  cold 
water.  Put  them  in  a  copper  basin  with  a  glassful  of  water  and 
cook  them  over  a  brisk  fire.  Sweeten  with  sugar  stirred  in  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  the}r  are  like  a  marmalade.  Then  strain  them 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  jar.  The  sauce  is 
used  with  turkey  and  for  tarts  and  pies.  If  Cranberries  are  cooked 
in  tin  basins  they  will  not  keep  their  rich  red  color. 


LXXITI. 


French  CRESS,    OR   PEPPER   GRASS.  German 

Cress'm.  Pillenfarn. 

No.  606. — Cress,  or  Pepper  Grass,  is  a  pungent  salad,  and  is 
mostly  used  in  mixing  with  other  salads.  Mixed  with  fine  herbs  it 
has  a  piquant,  agreeable  taste,  and  it  should  always  be  used  when 
young  and  freshly  plucked.  It  gives  a  most  agree  vble  taste  to  all 
green  salads. 

CULTURE. 

No.  607. — The  seed  should  be  sown  in  drills  about  eighteen  inches 
apart  on  very  rich  ground,  and  the  plants  Avell  cultivated.  Keep  oft' 
insects  by  dusting  with  Pyrethruni  powder.  It  may  be  planted 
very  early.  Continue  sowing  every  week,  as  it  matures  very 
rapidly  and  runs  to  seed. 

The  fine  curled  Cress  is  very  superior,  and  will  bear  cutting  sev- 
eral times.  The  Perennial  American  resembles  the  water  Cress, 
and  may  be  cut  several  times. 

The  Garden  Broad  Leaved  has  a  mild  flavor  and  is  generally  used 
in  soups. 


136  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLE 


French  GARDEN    CRESS.  German 

Cressun  alenois  des  jardiiis.  Kresse. 

No.  608. — This  is  one  of  the  best  plants  in  cultivation  for  herbs, 
and  can  be  easily  raised  in  pots  or  boxes.  It  runs  quickly  into 
seed  and  withers  as  soon  as  plucked  so  for  this  reason  it  is  rarely 
found  in  the  markets.  It  is  an  excellent  ingredient  for  salads,  hav- 
ing a  mild,  piquant  taste.  The  leaves  should  never  be  chopped, 
but  are  plucked  or  served  in  bunches.  The  leaves  when  laid 
between  buttered  sandwiches  and  eaten  with  eggs,  make  a  relish 
highly  esteemed  by  epicures. 


ARTICLE  LXXV. 


WATER    CRESS. 

Cresson  de  Fontaine.  Brwmen- Kresse. 

No.  609. — The  Water  Cress  is  a  hardy,  perennial,  aquatic  plant, 
growing  abundantly  along  the  margins  of  running  streams,  ditches 
and  ponds.  It  is  very  easily  introduced  by  planting  it  along  the 
margins  of  ponds  and  streams  where  it  does  not  already  grow,  and 
will  increase  both  by  the  spreading  of  the  roots  and  seeding. 

It  has  a  particularly  pleasant,  pungent  taste,  and  is  agreeable  to 
nearly  every  one.  It  is  also  one  of  the  most  delicious  small  salads. 

CULTURE.  ' 

No.  610. — The  seeds  should  be  sown  and  lightly  covered  in  grav- 
elly, murky  lands,  along  the  border  of  small,  rapid  streams.  They 
will  need  no  subsequent  culture,  as  in  favorable  conditions  they 
increase  very  rapidly  by  self-sowing  of  seed  and  extension  of  roots. 
Good  beds  should  be  fenced  in  to  keep  animals  from  trampling  on 
them,  and  should  also  be  kept  clear  of  wild  herbs. 

ITS  USE. 

No.  611. — It  is  eaten  as  a  morning  salad,  and  should  only  be  used 
when  fresh.  It  should  be  washed  well  in  cold  water  and  then 
drained.  (Care  must  be  taken  not  to  bruise  or  press  it.)  Then 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  137 

add  a  little  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper.  It  is  also  mixed  with  other 
green  salads,  and  is  largely  used  for  garnishing  roast  chickens, 
steaks,  etc.  It  can  also  be  cooked  and  prepared  the  same  as 
spinach. 


ARTICLE:  LXXVI. 


French  CUCUMBER.  German 

Cuncombie,  Gurke. 

No.  612. —  There  are  many  varieties  of  Cucumbers.  They  are 
eaten  raw  and  are  also  cooked  in  various  ways.  When  used  in  salads 
they  should  be  sliced  very  fine  and  sprinkled  with  salt  to  drain  them 
of  the  water,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  cause  indigestion.  It  is  a 
vegetable  that  can  be  grown  to  perfection  by  any  one  who  controls 
a  few  square  yards  of  soil  which  is  fully  exposed  to  the  sun — the 
fruit  being  so  very  much  better  when  gathered  from  the  vine  than 
when  procured  in  the  market.  Some  varieties  are  used  for  cooking 
purposes  and  some  for  pickling,  and  are  then  called  pickles,  or 
gherkins. 

CULTURE. 

No.  613. — The  plants  are  tender,  and  planting  should  be  delayed 
until  settled  warm  weather  or  ample  facilities  are  provided  to  pro- 
tect them  from  frost  and  during  cold  storms.  Form  low,  flat  hills, 
six  feet  apart  each  way,  of  rich  soil,  by  mixing  in  a  quantity  of 
thoroughly  decomposed  manure,  stirring  the  soil  to  a  depth  of 
sixteen  inches  or  more.  Scatter  one  seed  every  inch  along  the  rows, 
and  cover  them  one  inch  deep,  pressing  the  soil  over  them.  As 
soon  as  the  plants  are  up  they  will  be  liable  to  attack  by  the  striped 
cucumber  beetle.  These  may  be  kept  off  by  frequent  dusting  with 
air-slacked  lime.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  use  too  much  lime, 
for  if  too  strong  it  will  kill  the  vines. '  When  the  plants  are  well 
established,  thin  to  three  plants  to  each  hill.  In  gathering,  pick 
all  the  fruit  before  it  begins  to  ripen,  as  the  vines  will  cease  setting 
fruit  as  soon  as  any  seed  commences  to  mature.  In  gathering  for 
pickles  cut  the  stem  instead  of  pulling  the  fruit  off,  and  be  careful 
not  to  mar  the  fruit  in  any  way,  for  if  the  skin  is  broken  the  pickles 
will  not  keep. 

EARLY  WHITE   SPINE. 

No.  614. — A  favorite  market  variety,  of  medium  size,  with  deep 
green  flesh,  crisp  and  of  fine  flavor. 


13S  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EXTRA   LAEGE   WHITE   SPINE. 


No.  615. — This  is  a  larger  variety  of  dark-green  color,  largely 


used  for  forcing. 


BOSTON   PICKLING. 


No.  616. — A  variety  largely  used,  very  productive,  and  of  superior 
•quality. 

EARLY   FEAME. 

No.  617. — An  old  and  popular  variety  of  medium  size,  straight 
and  handsome,  and  excellent  for  pickling  when  young. 

EARLY   CLUSTEE. 

No.  618. — A  much  esteemed  early  sort,  growing  in  clusters  and 
extremely  productive. 

GEEEN   PEOLIFIC. 

No.  619. — This  is  one  of  the  best  for  pickling.  Its  characteristics 
are  its  very  uniform  growth  (hardly  ever  yielding  Cucumbers  too 
large  for  pickling)  and  its  immense  productiveness. 

EAELY  RUSSIAN. 

No.  620. — This  is  the  earliest  variety  of  fruit  produced,  and  is 
small,  hardy  and  productive. 

LONG  GEEEN. 

\To.  621. — A  fine  long  fruit  of  excellent  quality,  of  a  dark-green 
color,  firm  and  crisp. 

Talby's  Hybrid,  the  Long  Green  Turkey,  and  the  Short  Green, 
are  considered  excellent  varieties  for  family  use. 

ENGLISH   FEAME   OE   FORCING   VAEIETIES. 

No.  622. — These  are  almost  exclusively  raised  for  self-gratification, 
and  are  grown  in  hot-houses.  Sow  them  in  small  pots  in  January, 
February  or  March,  in  a  hot-bed  or  hot-house,  and  when  grown  to 
three  leaves  plant  them  out  in  previously  prepared  hills  of  loose 
rich  soil  in  the  center  of  £he  sash.  Keep  a  temperature  of  sixty- 
five  degrees  at  night,  to  seventy  or  eighty  degrees  with  sun  heat. 
When  grown  under  glass  artificial  impregnation  of  the  flowers  is 
necessary,  by  the  usual  method  of  using  a  camel's-hair  pencil,  or  if 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  139 

> 

not  a  hive  of  bees  should  be  kept,  if  Cucumbers  are  grown  on  a 
large  scale  in  green-houses.  When  grown  in  the  open  air  there  is 
no  need  of  this,  as  the  insects  and  winds  effect  impregnation.  The 
following  selections  include  some  of  the  leading  English  varieties: 

Berkshire  Champion,  Duke  of  Edinburgh, 

Blue  Gown,  Cuthill's  Black  Spine, 

Carter's  Champion,  Invincible, 

Improved  Lion  House,  Master's  Prolific, 

Dale's  Conqueror,  Long  Green, 

Telegraph,  Prince  Albert, 

Marquis  of  Lome,  Monroe's  Rabley, 

Lord  Kenyon's  Favorite,  Walker's  Runiblers. 

CUCUMBERS,  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE. 

No.  623. — Pare  half  a  dozen  Cucumbers,  slice  them  in  half  and 
scoop  out  the  seeds.  Then  cut  them  in  scallops,  all  the  same  size, 
and  put  them  into  a  bowl  with  cold  water,  a  little  salt  and  some 
vinegar.  Half  an  hour  after  this  drain  off  the  water  and  dry  them 
on  a  napkin.  Then  put  them  into  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of 
butter,  and  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire.  Let  them 
cook  slowly  until  they  are  tender,  then  drain  off  the  butter  and  add 
four  spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce.  Toss  the  whole  together  gently, 
and  dish  them  up  with  a  little  tine  chopped  parsley  over  them. 

CUCUMBERS,  POULETTE. 

No.  624. — Prepare  the  Cucumbers  the  same  way  as  in  No.  623,  but 
instead  of  Cream  sauce  add  Allemande  sauce.  Before  serving,  add 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Dish  them  up  nicely,  and  have  pieces 
of  bread  cut  into  fancy  shapes  fried,  then  glaze  them  to  garnish 
around  the  dish. 

CUCUMBERS,    DUCHESSE. 

No.  625. — Pare  half  a  dozen  Cucumbers,  then  cut  them  into 
quarters  and  scoop  out  the  seed.  Parboil  them  for  two  minutes  in 
water  lightly  salted,  to  which  add  a  little  vinegar.  Then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water  and  dry  them  on  a  towel,  after  which,  put  them 
in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  little  clarified  butter.  Season  them  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  put  them  on  a  brisk 
fire  and  fry  them  lightly  on  both  sides  (not  letting  the  butter  get 
browned).  Then  take  them  out  with  a  sna  ill  skimmer,  without 
breaking  them,  and  dish  them  up.  Prepare  separately  a  reduced 


140  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

Supreme  sauce,  in  which  add  two  spoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  and  pour  it  over  the  cucumbers.     Then  serve. 

CUCUMBERS,  SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  626. — Pare  half  a  dozen  Cucumbers.  Slice  them  in  halves 
and  scoop  out  the  seeds.  Then  cut  the  Cucumbers  in  scollops  and 
parboil  them  for  two  minutes.  Then  immerse  them  in  cold  water. 
Dry  them  on  a  napkin  and  put  them  into  a  buttered  flat  saucepan, 
and  season  them  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Then  put 
on  the  lid  and  let  them  simmer  until  the  moisture  is  reduced:  after 
which  add  two  spoonfuls  of  veal  gravy  and  one  of  Espagnole 
sauce.  Let  them  cook  until  tender,  then  dish  them  up,  straining 
the  gravy  through  a  fine  sieve  into  another  saucepan.  Reduce  it  to 
its  proper  consistency.  Then  take  it  off  of  the  fire,  and  add  a  piece 
of  butter  and  some  fine  chopped  parsley,  while  stirring  it  until  the 
butter  is  melted.  Then  pour  it  over  the  Cucumbers,  and  serve. 

STUFFED   CUCUMBERS,  SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  627. — Pare  one  dozen  Cucumbers,  slice  them  in  halves,  scoop 
out  the  seeds,  and  parboil  the  Cucumbers  for  two  minutes.  Immerse 
them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Stuff  them  with  a 
forced  meat,  made  of  the  breasts  of  chickens,  into  which  add  some 
cooked  fine  herbs.  Arrange  the  Cucumbers  in  neat  order  in  a  deep, 
flat  saucepan,  lined  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Then  moisten  them 
with  a  clear  Espagnole  sauce  or  veal  gravy,  and  cover  each  Cucum- 
ber with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork.  Put  the  lid  on  the  saucepan  and 
set  it  into  the  oven  to  cook,  basting  them  occasionally.  When  they 
are  nicely  glazed,  dish  them  up  and  serve  them  with  a  reduced 
Madeira  wine  sauce. 

STUFFED   CUCUMBERS,    ITALIAN    STYLE. 

No.  628. — Prepare  one  dozen  Cucumbers  as  in  No.  627.  Stuff 
them  with  a  forced  meat  of  roast  chicken,  into  which  add  some 
fine  chopped  fresh  nmshrooms,  and  the  same  quantity  of  boiled 
smoked  beef  tongue.  Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  each  one, 
and  arrange  them  in  a  buttered  baking  pan  with  a  few  drops  of 
olive  oil  on  each  one.  Then  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and 
when  they  are  nicely  browned  dish  them  up  with  a  white  or  brown 
Italian  sauce. 

STUFFED   CUCUMBERS,  TURKISH   STYLE. 

No.  629. — Prepare  one  dozen  Cucumbers  as  in  No.  627.  Chop 
fine  half  a  pound  of  cold,  braized  lamb,  to  which  add  a  quarter  of  a 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  141 

pound  of  fine  chopped  beef  suet,  some  cooked  fine  herbs,  and  three 
spoonfuls  of  rice,  cooked  in  broth.  Season  with  salt,  uutnieg,  and 
a  pinch  of  red  pepper.  Mix  it  well  tog-ether  over  the  fire,  while 
adding  the  yolks  of  three  raw  eggs.  Stuff  the  Cucumbers  with  this 
stuffing  and  sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them.  Then  arrange 
them  in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  over  each 
one,  and  bake  the;n  in  a  moderate  oven  until  nicely  browned.  Then 
dish  them  up  with  a  reduced,  plain  Tomato  sauce. 

SCOLLOPED   CUCUMBERS,  FOE   GARNITURE. 

No.  630. — Pare  one  dozen  Cucumbers,  slice  them  in  half  and  cut 
out  the  seeds.  Then  parboil  them  for  two  minutes,  immerse  them  in 
cold  water,  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Put  into  a  flat  saucepan  two 
spoonfuls  of  clarified  butter,  add  the  Cucumbers,  and  season  them 
with  salt,. pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Cover  the  saucepan  and 
let  them  simmer  until  cooked,  without  letting  them  get  browned. 
Then  drain  off  the  butter  and  add  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  with  some 
fine  chopped  parsley.  Use -as  needed,  as  soon  as  they  are  cooked. 

SCOLLOPED   CUCUMBERS,  FOR   GARNITURE  WITH   SAUCE. 

No.  631. — Prepare  the  Cucumbers  in  the  same  way  as  in  No.  630, 
and  fry  them  lightly  in  clarified  butter,  then  drain  off  the  butter  and 
add  two  spoonfuls  of  white  broth,  and  reduce  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  a 
glaze.  Then  add,  as  may  be  needed,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Cream, 
Allemande,  or  Espagnole  sauce. 

NOTE.— For  large  garnitures  the  stuffed  Cucumbers  are  used,  alternated  with  other  vegetables. 
PUREE   OF   CUCUMBER. 

No.  632. — Prepare  one  dozen  Cucumbers  in  the  same  manner  as 
in  No.  630.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished  with  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  few  cloves,  and  a  slice  of  raw, 
lean  ham.  Then  put  on  the  lid  and  let  them  simmer  to  reduce  the 
moisture,  after  which  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream  or  Allemande 
sauce,  and  let  it  cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  take  out  the  faggot 
and  rub  the  Cucumbers  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  the  puree  into 
a  flat  saucepan,  and  add  a  glass  of  cream  to  it.  Reduce  this  to  its 
proper  consistency  while  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Before 
serving,  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

SOUP — CREAM   OF   CUCUMBER,    QUEEN    STYLE. 

No.  633. — Pare  one  and  a  half  dozen  medium  sized  fresh  Cucum- 
bers, slice  them  in  half  and  take  out  the  seeds.  Then  cut  them  in 


142  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

scollops  and  parboil  them  for  two  minutes,  after  which  drain  them. 
Then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  set  them 
on  a  brisk  fire.  When  the  moisture  is  reduced  add  one  quart  of  white 
broth  to  them,  with  a  faggot  of  parsley  well  garnished.  Season 
them  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  little  fine  sugar.  When 
they  are  cooked,  add  two  quarts  of  Cream  sauce,  and  let  them  cook 
slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Then  take  out  the  faggot  and  rub  the  soup 
through  a  fine  sieve;  then  return  it  to  the  saucepan  and  keep  it 
warm  in  a  hot  water  bath.  Before  serving  add  half  a  pound  of 
butter  in  small  pieces,  and  stir  briskly  with  a  whisk  until  the  butter 
is  melted;  then^add  some  fine  chopped  chives. 

PUREE   OF   CUCUMBERS,    PATTI   STYLE. 

No.  634. — Prepare  one  and  a  half  dozen  Cucumbers  as  in  No.  633, 
and  when  they  are  parboiled  drain  them  dry.  Then  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Toss  them  over  a  brisk  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  a  pint  of  chicken  broth.  Reduce  it  and  then  add 
one  gallon  of  thickened  chicken  or  veal  broth  and  let  it  cook  slowly 
for  half  an  hour.  Skim  it  well  and  then  rub  the  soup  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Return  the  puree  to  the  saucepan  and  keep  it  warm  on  the 
fire.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  pint  of  cream, 
into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  Mix  the  whole  well 
together  (not  letting  it  boil).  Serve  with  a  garniture  of  small  scol- 
loped Cucumbers,  nicely  glazed. 

CUCUMBERS,    WITH   PUREE   OF   CHICKENS. 

No.  635. — Prepare  the  Cucumbers  as  in  No.  634,  and  when  they 
have  been  tossed  over  the  fire,  add  to  them  one  quart  of  light 
Cream  sauce  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until  tender.  Season  them 
highly  and  add  half  their  quantity  of  a  puree  of  chicken  diluted 
with  chicken  broth,  enough  to  give  it  its  proper  consistency.  Then 
rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  it  to  the  saucepan  and  keep  it 
warm  in  a  hot  water  bath.  When  ready  to  serve  add  a  piece  of 
butter,  stirring  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve  with  small 
balls  made  with  a  forced  meat  of  chicken  previously  poached  in 
broth. 

CUCUMBERS  FOR  RELISH. 

No.  636. — Pare  the  Cucumbers  and  cut  them  in  thin  slices. 
Serve  them  in  relish  dishes  with  a  piece  of  ice  on  top  of  them  to 
keep  them  cool. 

Peeled  raw  tomatoes,  thinly  sliced,  may  be  used  with  them. 

NOTE.— In  using  Cucumbers  as  a  plain  relish  only  the  young  and  freshest  kinds  should  be  used. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  143 

CUCUMBER   SALAD,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  637. — Pare  one  dozen  Cucumbers — (when  small,  slice  them;, 
when  large,  split  them  in  half ) — scoop  out  the  seed  and  slice  them 
fine.  Then  put  them  into  an  earthen  bowl.  Sprinkle  them  with 
salt  and  mix  them  well  together.  Set  them  in  a  cool  place  for  one 
hour;  after  which  drain  off  the  water,  pressing  the  Cucumbers 
gently.  Season  with  pepper,  oil,  vinegar,  and  salt  if  needed,  and 
add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley.  Mix  well  together,  and  serve  in 
a  salad  bowl. 

CUCUMBER   SALAD,    SPANISH    STYLE. 

No.  638. — Prepare  the  Cucumbers  the  same  as  in  No.  637,  and 
when  dressing  them,  add  some  sliced  green  bell  peppers  and  some 
sliced  peeled  tomatoes. 

CUCUMBER   SALAD,  GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  639. — After  the  Cucumbers  are  pared,  cut  arid  sliced  as  in 
No.  637,  add,  when  ready  to  serve,  some  sliced  green  onions,  and 
season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  add  a  little  fine 
chopped  parsley,  and  mix  the  whole  well  together. 

NOTE. — A  light  Mayonnaise  dressing  may  be  added  if  desired. 
PRESERVED    CUCUMBERS. 

No.  640. — Pare  two  dozen  Cucumbers,  cutting  each  one  into  four 
or  five  pieces,  and  trim  so  as  to  have  them  of  uniform  size.  Take 
out  the  seed,  and  as  you  prepare  them,  put  them  into  a  bowl  of 
cold  water,  lightly  salted  and  acidulated.  Then  put  on  the  fire  a 
copper  basin  with  one  gallon  of  water.  Into  this  put  the  Cucum- 
bers when  the  water  is  boiling,  and  when  they  are  half-cooked  take 
the  basin  off  of  the  fire,  and  half  an  hour  later  take  out  the  Cucum- 
bers. Drain  them  on  a  cloth.  Then  place  them  in  quart  cans,  into- 
which  add  cold  boiled  water  lightly  salted,  so  as  to  cover  them. 
Solder  on  the  covers  and  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  one 
hour. 

PICKLED    CUCUMBERS  (PICKLES   OR  GHERKINS). 

No.  641. — Select  small  and  nicely  shaped  Cucumbers  without  any 
specks.  Put  them  into  a  barrel  of  the  size  you  intend  filling.  Put 
a  layer  of  salt  on  each  layer  of  Cucumbers,  and  add  cold  water 
enough  to  cover  them.  Then  cover  them  with  a  round  board,  on 


144  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

top  of  which  place  some  heavy  weight  to  press  the  Cucumbers 
clown.  Keep  them  in  a  cool  place  for  six  weeks,  and  occasionally 
stir  them  from  the  bottom. 

When  ready  to  put  them  up,  drain  off  the  brine  and  throw  away 
any  of  the  Cucumbers  that  may  have  become  softened.  Put  the 
good  Cucumbers  into  fresh  cold  water  over  night.  Drain  the 
quantity  you  need  and  put  them  into  a  copper  basin,  lined  with 
cabbage  leaves.  Pour  over  them,  so  as  to  cover,  wine  or  cider 
vinegar.  Then  cover  with  cabbage  leaves,  and  set  the  basin  on  the 
fire  to  boil.  After  which,  set  them  on  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let 
them  boil  slowly,  until  the  Cucumbers  become  firm.  After  this,  take 
them  off  of  the  fire,  and  when  they  are  cold  put  them  into  jars  or 
other  vessels,  with  a  sprig  of  tarragon  in  each  jar;  (These  Cucum- 
bers may  be  put  up  with  other  pickled  vegetables,  such  as  cauli- 
flower, beans,  peppers  and  onions,  each  prepared  separately,  and 
arranged  in  jars,  etc.)  Pour  vinegar  over  them  and  cork  them  up 
well. 

PICKLED   CUCUMBERS. 

No.  642. — Pare  half  a  dozen  Cucumbers,  cut  them  in  half  and 
scoop  out  the  seeds.  Then  cut  them  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick 
and  trim  so  as  to  have  them  all  equal  in  size.  Put  them  into  an 
earthen  bowl.  Sprinkle  them  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt, 
and  let  them  stand  for  ten  hours,  turning  them  over  occasionally. 
Then  draw  off  the  water  and  put  them  in  jars  with  an  ounce  of 
pepper  corn  and  four  bay  leaves.  Cover  them  with  vinegar.  Cork 
them  tightly  and  set  them  in  a  cool  place. 

PICKLED    CUCUMBERS — MIXED    PICKLES. 

No.  643. — Put  into  a  small  barrel  two  pounds  of  small,  white 
onions,  two  pounds  of  small,  round  green  peppers,  and  two  hundred 
small  Cucumbers.  Make  a  strong  brine,  and  pour  it,  boiling  hot, 
over  the  Cucumbers.  Two  days  after  this,  drain  them  and  pour  a 
new,  cold  brine  over  them.  On  the  following  day  drain  off  this 
brine  and  boil  it,  adding  a  little  salt  to  it,  skim  the  brine  well  and 
pour  it  over  the  pickles.  Two  days  after  drain  the  pickles  and  put 
them  into  fresh  water,  rinsing  them  well.  Then  put  them  in  jars 
and  cover  them  with  boiled  wine  or  cider  vinegar,  adding  a  small 
piece  of  alum  to  the  vinegar. 

NOTE.— Cucumbers  may  be  pickled  in  spiced  vinegar  in  the  same  way  as  the  above,  only  in 
bailing  the  vinegar  it  is  necessary  to  put  into  a  cloth  bag  one  ounce  of  cloves  and  one  of  allspice,  and 
to  boil  this  with  the  vinegar. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  145 


ARTICLE  LXXVIL 


French  CUCKOO-FLOWER   CRESS.  German 

Cresson  Elegant  des  pres.  Kuckuksblume. 

No.  644. — This  is  a  hardy,  perennial  plant,  that  is  grown  in  the 
Northern  and  Southern  States.  The  stem  is  about  fifteen  inches 
high,  being  erect  and  smooth.  The  leaves  are  deeply  divided  and 
have  a  warm,  pungent  taste,  such  as  is  always  noticeable  in  the 
Cress  family.  They  are  used  when  youn'g  as  a  salad,  the  same  as 
other  cresses.  Medicinally  it  has  the  reputation  of  being  highly 
anti-scorbutic,  and  it  also  aids  digestion.  There  are  four  varieties : 
the  white  flowering,  the  purple  flowering,  the  double  white  flower- 
ing, and  the  double  purple  flowering.  The  last  two  varieties  are 
propagated  by  a  division  of  the  roots.  The  single  varieties  are 
propagated  from  seed,  which  is  sown  in  April,  in  shallow  drills,  one 
foot  apart.  The  roots  may  be  divided  in  spring  or  autumn. 


ARTICLE;  LXXVIII. 


CUMIN. 

Gamin.  KummeL 

No.  645. — Cumin,  though  a  native  of  Egypt,  may  be  successfully 
grown  in  the  Southern  or  Middle  States.  The  plant  is  cultivated 
for  its  seed,  which  is  carminative  and  is  used  the  same  as  caraway 
and  coriander,  and  for  flavoring  a  liqueur  called  Kummel.  It 
is  a  tender,  annual  plant.  Its  seeds  are  long  and  furrowed, 
and  of  a  pale  brownish  color.  It  requires  a  light,  warm,  loamy  soil. 
Sow  in  May  in  drills  fourteen  inches  apart  and  half  an  inch  deep. 
When  the  plants  are  well  up  trim  them  to  three  inches  apart  in  the 
lines. 


ARTICLE  LXXIX. 


CURRY. 

Kari.  Kari. 

No.  646. — Curry  is  a  preparation  made  of  spices  that  come  from 
East  India.     It  comes  both   as  a  powder  and  a  paste.     There  are 
10 


146  HAEDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

many  spurious  imitations  made  here  that  are  composed  of  ground 
red  and  black  pepper,  curcuma,  cloves,  nutmeg  and  ginger,  and 
which  are  far  inferior  in  quality  to  the  genuine  article;  in  fact,  they 
hardly  resemble  it.  Preparations  in  which  Curry  is  a  component 
part  should  always  be  accompanied  by  a  dish  of  rice. 


A.RTICLB 


French  DANDELION.  Gcrmau 

Pisse  en  lit.  Loicenzahn. 

No.  647. — Those  who  only  know  the  Dandelion  as  the  persistent 
weed  in  pastures  and  lawns  (which  is  gathered  for  salads  when 
young  and  green),  know  no  more  of  its  real  value  than  one  who  has 
only  seen  the  poisonous  wild  parsnip  or  carrot  knows  of  the  value 
of  those  vegetables.  The  improved  variety  makes  it  one  of  the  ear- 
liest and  best  greens  in  cultivation.  It  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant, 
resembling  the  endive,  and  affords  one  of  the  best  and  most  health- 
ful of  spring  salads. 

CULTURE. 

No.  648. — When  cultivated  the  ^eeds  should  be  sown  in  May  or 
June,  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep  and  twelve  inches  apart.  The 
plants  will  be  ready  for  use  the  following  spring.  It  is  also  exten- 
sively grown  for  its  roots.  For  this  purpose  it  is  sown  in  Septem- 
ber and  cultivated  well  during  the  fall,  and  in  the  following  season 
the  roots  will  be  fit  to  dig  up  in  October.  The  roots,  after  being 
dried,  constitute  an  article  of  commercial  importance,  being  exten- 
sively employed  as  a  substitute  for,  or  mixed  with  coffee. 

LARGE  LEAVED  DANDELION   (CULTIVATED). 

No.  649. — When  cultivated  its  leaves  are  fully  double  the  size  of 
the  common  Dandelion.  It  is  a  great  improvement  over  the  com- 
mon variety,  and  when  blanched  it  can  be  prepared  in  every  way, 
the  same  as  the  endive. 

DANDELION   SALAD. 

No.  650. — Prepare  the  same  as  endive  salad,  No.  703.  It  is  a 
healthful  breakfast  salad. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  147 

DANDELION   BROTH. 

No.  651. — Dandelion  boiled  in  water  is  a  refreshing  diet  drink 
svlien  cold. 


ARTICLE  LXXXI 


French  DILL.  German 

Aneth.  Dill. 

No.  652. — Dill  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  is  cultivated  for  its 
seeds,  which  have  an  aromatic  odor  and  a  warm  pungent  taste.  It 
is  a  corrective  for  flatulence  and  colic  in  infants,  and  is  added  to 
pickled  cucumbers  to  heighten  their  flavor.  The  leaves  are  some- 
times used  to  flavor  soups  and  sauces,  and  the  seeds  for  flavoring 
pickles. 

CULTURE. 

No.  653. — Sow  early  in  spring  and  keep  clear  of  weeds. 


ARTICLE:  LXXXII. 


DIET  DRINKS  (Tisanes). 

Tisane.  Difit  Getriinke. 

No.  654. — It  is  the  duty  of  every  chief  cook  to  know  how  to  com- 
pound and  prepare  diet  drinks,  juleps  and  apozems.  Diet  drinks, 
or  tisanes,  are  made  for  sick  persons,  to  be  taken  as  a  refreshment. 
They  should  be  prepared  in  such  a  manner  that  the  taste  will  be 
agreeable  to  the  patient.  In  making  diet  drinks  it  is  best  to  use 
earthen  pots.  They  should  not  be  allowed  to  draw  more  than  half 
an  hour  or  they  will  get  too  strong  and  bitter.  When  flowers, 
leaves  or  herbs  are  used,  diet  drinks  are  made  by  infusion;  when 
roots  are  used,  they  are  boiled. 

The  following  are  the  principal  plants,  roots,  flowers,  herbs  and 
seeds  from  which  diet  drinks  are  made: 


148 


HARDER  S   AMERICAN   COOKERY. 


Basil,  Sweet, 

Barley  (heads  or  crowns), 

Beets  (white), 

Borage , 

Brier  leaves, 
*Catechu, 

Centaury, 

Chaniomile, 

Chervil, 

Colt's-foot  (flowers), 

ColtVfoot  (roots) , 
*Comfrey  (roots), 

Coriander  (seeds), 

Corn  Poppy, 
*Corsican  Sea  Moss, 
^"Crow's-foot, 

Elder  Tree  (flower  buds), 

Endive, 

Fennel,  Sweet, 
*Gentian  Boot, 

Hollyhock, 

Horseradish, 
^Iceland  Moss, 

Juniper  Berries, 

*8ee  description  of  these  in  the  glossary. 


Lettuce, 
^Lichen, 

Lime  Tree  or  Linden  Tree, 

Mallow  (flowers), 

Malt, 

Marsh  Mallow, 
*Marsh  Trefoil, 

Marjoram,   Sweet, 

Mint, 

Mullen, 

Oak   (common  wall  German- 
der), 

^Orange  (blossoms), 
*Orange  (leaves), 

Parsley  (roots), 
^Pomegranate  (roots.) 

Rosemary, 

Sage, 

Sorrel, 

Thyme, 

Venus  hair, 
^Violet  (flowers), 

Water  Cress, 
*  White  Archangel  Nettle. 


DECOCTION   OF   MALT. 


No.  655. — Malt  is  barley  or  other  grain  steeped  in  water  till  it 
germinates,  and  then  dried  in  a  kiln,  thus  evolving  the  saccharine 
principle.  The  decoction  of  malt  makes  an  emollient  diet  drink  of 
agreeable  taste,  which  is  nourishing  to  a  small  degree. 


HERB  JUICE. 

No.  656. — Herb  juice  is  made  by  combining  a  variety  of  herbs 
and  vegetables,  such  as  the  endive,  water  cress,  lettuce,  chervil, 
sorrel  and  white  beet.  Use  equal  parts  of  the  herbs  or  vegetables 
desired  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  into  a  fine,  homogeneous  paste. 
Then  press  out  or  extract  the  juice.  Mix  four  or  five  ounces  of  it 
in  a  cup  of  veal  or  chicken  broth  and  drink  it  before  breakfast.  A 
spoonful  of  lime  syrup  may  be  added  to  it.  This  is  a  drink  that 
will  cleanse  the  system  well. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE".  149 

ICELAND   MOSS,  OR  LICHEN   DIET   DRINK. 

No.  657. — Put  one  ounce  of  Iceland  Moss  or  Lichen  into  one 
pound  of  water,  to  macerate  for  twelve  hours.  Then  drain  off  the 
water  and  put  the  Moss  to  boil  in  three  pounds  of  fresh  water,  letting 
it  boil  until  one-third  of  the  quantity  of  water  is  reduced.  Then 
strain  it  through  a  napkin  and  add  one  ounce  of  marsh  mallow  syrup. 
This  is  an  emollient  drink,  and  is  frequently  used  for  complaints 
relative  to  the  chest  or  breast,  and  for  affections  of  the  larynx.  It 
would  be  advisable  to  dilute  this  with  one-third  of  its  quantity  of 
cow's  milk,  if  the  stomach  can  stand  it. 

COLT'S-FOOT  DIET  DRINK. 

No.  658. — Put  half  an  ounce  of  Colt's-foot  roots  in  a  pint  of  water, 
and  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes.  Then  take  it  from  the  fire  and  add 
two  pinches  of  Colt's-foot  flower.  It  should  be  taken  at  regular  inter- 
vals. It  may  be  mixed  with  wine  instead  of  water,  if  taken  at 
dinner. 

AN  ANTI-BILIOUS  DIET  DRINK. 

No.  659. — Take  half  a  handful  of  barley  heads  having  long  beards 
or  arms,  and  put  them  in  a  pint  of  water.  Let  it  boil  awhile  and 
then  add  two  rennet  apples,  peeled  and  cut  in  quarters.  Then  strain 
it  through  a  napkin  and  add  four  ounces  of  vinegar  syrup  and  the 
juice  of  two  lemons.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

AN  EMOLLIENT  DIET  DRINK. 

No.  660. — Put  a  handful  of  mallow  flowers  and  two  ounces  of 
Canadian  venus-hair  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  let  it  steep. 
Then  strain  it  and  add  one  ounce  of  ground  gum  arabic  and  two 
ounces  of  clarified  honey.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

A   PECTORAL   DIET   DRINK. 

No.  661. — Take  two  ounces  of  dates,  two  ounces  of  jujube  and  two 
ounces  of  dried  currants.  Put  them  in  a  pint  of  water  to  boil. 
When  boiled  strain  them  through  a  towel  and  add  one  ounce  of  gum 
or  marsh  mallow  syrup.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Another  pectoral  diet  drink  can  be  made  as  follows :  Make  a  de- 
coction of  rennet  apples,  after  which  add  to  it  equal  proportions  of 
violet  flowers,  colt's-foot,  mallow  and  mullen.  Sweeten  it  with  honey 
and  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 


150  HAEDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

APOZEMS. 

No.  662. — Apozems  are  concentrated  tisanes  with  medicinal  and 
pharrnaceutic  preparation,  and  should  be  made  by  infusion  or  de- 
coction. The-  ingredients  should  be  macerated  or  ground  to  a 
powder,  as  the  case  may  be.  Apozems  used  for  cleansing  the  sys- 
tem have  sarsaparilla  or  burdock  as  a  basis.  The  stiptic,  diuretic, 
purgative  and  the  febrifuge  Apozcms  should  be  made  only  from  a 
physician's  prescription,  as  should  any  others  that  are  intended  for 
internal  use.  They  can  be  made  with  convenience  to  use  as  lotions, 
gargles  or  injections.  The  method  of  cooking  them  and  the  mode 
of  application  must  be  thoroughly  understood. 

NOTE.— Use  the  apothecaries'  weight  in  weighing  mixtures. 

A  DIURETIC   OR   APERIENT   APOZEM. 

No.  663. — Take  four  drams  of  wild  horseradish,  and  two  drams  of 
crushed  juniper  berries.  Put  them  in  a  pot.  Pour  twelve  ounces 
of  boiling  water  over  them  and  cover  the  pot  tight.  In  a  few  minutes 
strain  it  through  a  piece  of  flannel  and  let  it  stand.  When  it  is 
cold  add  a  pint  of  white  wine,  in  which  you  have  dissolved  two 
ounces  of  vinegar,  honey  and  syrup  of  squills  mixed  in  equal 
quantities.  This  Apozem  is  used  in  cases  of  gravel  or  when  the 
flow  of  urine  is  embarrassed.  Take  three  wine  glasses  full  in  the 
morning  before  breakfast. 

A   VERMIFUGE   APOZEM. 

No.  664. — Take  one  ounce  of  Corsican  sea  moss  and  one  ounce  of 
Artemesia  syrup  and  put  them  in  eight  ounces  of  boiling  water  to 
steep.  This  Apozem  is  appropriate  for  children  having  worms. 
Grown  persons  who  have  the  solitary  worm  use  a  decoction  of  pom- 
egranate roots,  which  is  an  efficient  remedy. 

AN  ANTI-SCORBUTIC  APOZEM. 

$ 

No.  665. — Take  a  handful  of  menyanthes  leaves,  one  of  sorrel 
leaves  and  one  of  horseradish  roots.  Put  them  in  four  pounds  of 
water  and  boil  it  until  the  quantity  of  water  is  reduced  one-half. 
This  is  an  excellent  remedy  in  cases  of  scurvy. 

AN  ASTRINGENT  APOZEM. 

No.  666. — Take  two  drams  of  catechu  and  two  drams  of  comfrey 
roots.  Boil  them  in  one  quart  of  water,  and  when  reduced  to  one- 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  151 

quarter  of  its  volume,  strain  it  and  add  two  ounces  of  quince  syrup. 
Take  half  a  cupful  at  a  time. 

A   STOMACHIC   APOZEM. 

No.  667. — Take  one  ounce  of  gentian  root,  cut  in  small  pieces  and 
boil  it  in  a  pint  of  water.  Then  add  two  ounces  of  the  end  butts  of 
oak  (small  germander)  and  two  ounces  of  the  following  mixture, 
equally  proportioned :  Centaury,  fumitory,  marsh  trefoil,  and  hop 
seed.  Let  it  all  steep  for  two  hours,  and  then  drain  it  through  a 
towel  without  pressing  it.  Take  half  a  glassful  every  hour. 

A   PURGATIVE   APOZEM. 

No.  668. — Take  two  ounces  of  senna  leaves,  one  ounce  of 
Glauber's  salt,  one  dram  of  anise  seed,  one  dram  of  coriander  seed, 
one  ounce  of  chervil  leaves,  and  one  ounce  of  burnet  leaves.  Add 
to  this  mixture  one  sliced  lemon.  Put  it  all  in  an  earthen  bowl, 
with  two  pounds  of  cold  water,  and  let  it  macerate  for  twenty-four 
hours,  stirring  it  occasionally.  Str.dn  it  through  a  towel  with  light 
pressure,  and  then  filter  it.  This  is  an  agreeable  and  efficient 
purgative. 

A   GERMAN   APOZEM,  OR  WHITE   DECOCTION. 

No.  669. — Pound  in  a  mortar  two  ounces  of  bread  crumbs  and 
two  drams  of  calcine  crow's-foot  until  thoroughly  pulverized.  Boil 
one  ounce  of  white  cube  sugar  in  a  quart  of  water  for  twenty-five 
minutes,  and  then  add  to  it  one  ounce  of  orange  flower  water  and 
the  pulverized  bread  crumbs  and  crows-foot.  Strain  it  all  through 
a  fine  sieve,  with  pressure.  Take  half  a  glassful  every  other  hour. 
Shake  the  mixture  well  before  taking.  This  is  an  excellent  correc- 
tive of  diarrhoea. 


LXXXIII. 


Trench  EGG     PLANT.  German 

Aubergine.  Eierpflanze. 

No.  670. — The  Egg  Plant  is  a  tender,  annual  plant,  that  origin- 
ated in  South  America.  When  well  grown  and  properly  cooked,  it 
is  a  delicious  table  vegetable.  Its  fruit  resembles  a  large  egg  in 
shape.  There  are  two  varieties,  the  white  and  the  violet. 


152  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY, 

CULTURE. 

No.  671. — The  seed  germinates  slowly  and  should  be  started  in 
strong  heat,  for  in  this,  as  in  all  tropical  plants,  it  is  of  import- 
ance to  secure  a  rapid  and  continuous  growth  from  the  first,  the 
plants  never  recovering  from  a  check  received  when  young.  When 
the  plants  have  formed  two  rough  leaves,  transplant  them  to  four 
inches  apart,  keep  the  bed  closed  and  very  warm,  shaded  from  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun,  and  giving  them  an  abundance  of  water  until 
the  ground  is  warm  and  all  danger,  not  only  from  frost  but  from 
cold  nights,  is  past.  Then  harden  off  the  plants  by  gradual  exposure 
to  the  sun  and  air,  and  decrease  the  supply  of  water.  Then  care- 
fully transplant  them  into  warm,  rich  soil,  setting  the  plants  two 
and  one-half  feet  apart.  If  needed  shade  the  young  plants  and 
protect  them  from  the  potatoe  bug,  which  is  very  fond  of  them,  and 
if  not  prevented  will  soon  destroy  the  young  plants. 

EARLY  LONG  PURPLE. 

No.  672. — This  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  productive  varie- 
ties. The  fruit  is  long  and  of  a  dark,  rich,  purple  color,  of  fine 
quality. 

BLACK  PEKIN. 

No.  673. — Nearly  as  early  as  the  above,  and  as  large  as  the  New 
York  purple.  It  is  very  prolific  and  desirable  for  market.  The 
fruit  is  nearly  round,  the  skin  is  smooth,  black  and  glossy;  and  the 
flesh  is  white,  fine  grained  and  delicate. 

LARGE  NEW  YORK   PURPLE. 

No.  674. — This  is  large  and  round,  and  of  excellent  quality,  and 
is  highly  esteemed  in  the  Eastern  market. 

IMPROVED  LARGE  PURPLE. 

No.  675. — This  is  the  best  in  cultivation,  being  early,  a  sure 
crop,  and  of  fine  quality.  The  plants  are  large  and  vigorous,  with 
light  green  leaves.  The  fruit  is  very  large  and  oval-shaped,  a  deep 
purple  in  color,  with  an  occasional  dash  of  green  about  the  stem. 
The  flesh  is  white,  tender  and  superior  in  quality. 

GUADALOUPE   STRIPED. 

No.  676.  The  fruit  is  nearly  oval  in  shape,  and  the  skin  white 
and  variegated  with  purple,  being  very  ornamental. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  153 

ORNAMENTAL   VARIETIES. 

No.  677. — There  are  three  kinds  which  are  not  eatable,  but  are 
very  ornamental  in  gardens — namely,  the  scarlet,  the  tomato-shaped 
and  the  white-fruited.  The  fruit  of  the  scarlet  is  about  the  size  of 
a  hen's  egg,  of  a  whitish  color,  which  changes  to  yellow  and  after- 
wards to  a  brilliant  scarlet.  The  tomato-shaped  is  of  a  bright  red 
color.  The  white-fruited  is  egg-shaped  and  very  ornamental. 

EGG   PLANT,    FEIED    (FRENCH   STYLE). 

No.  678. — Peel  and  slice  two  Egg  Plants.  Sprinkle  fine  salt  over 
each  slice,  and  then  replace  them  in  shape  ao;ain.  Press  them 
gently  and  set  them  aside  for  half  an  hour.  Then  drain  off  the 
water,  dry  them,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  flour,  and  fry 
them  in  hot  lard.  Season  with  salt  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

EGG  PLANT,  BREADED  AND  FRIED  (AMERICAN  STYLE). 

No.  679. — Prepare  the  Egg  Plants  as  in  No.  678.  Season  them 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  then  in  raspings 
of  bread.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard,  drain  them,  and  serve  them  on  a 
napkin. 

EGG   PLANT,  LYONNAISE. 

No.  680. — Peel  four  Egg  Plants  and  cut  them  in  quarters.  Par- 
boil them  for  fifteen  minutes  in  water  lightly  salted,  drain  them  and 
trim  and  cut  them  in  scollops.  Put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  them  to  a  nice, 
bright  color.  Before  serving  add  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley. 

EGG   PLANT  WITH   CHEESE,  NEAPOLITAN   STYLE. 

No.  681. — Peel  and  slice  three  Egg  Plants,  sprinkle  a  little  salt 
between  each  slice,  and  replace  them  in  shape  again.  After  half  an 
hour  press  them  dry,  then  fry  them  in  olive  oil  and  drain  them  on  a 
napkin.  Season  them  with  salt  and  pepper  and  arrange  them  in  a  but- 
tered baking  dish,  with  a  little  grated  Parmesan  cheese  between 
each  slice.  Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  over 
the  top,  moisten  them  with  a  few  drops  of  olive  oil,  wipe  the  bor- 
ders of  the  dish,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 

EGG  PLANT,  WITH  CREAM  AND  CHEESE. 

No.  682.— Prepare  the  Egg  Plant  as  in  No.  680.  Fry  them  in 
clarified  butter  and  place  them  in  a  baking  dish,  with  a  reduced  cream 


154  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

.  sauce,  in  which  add  four  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  sprinkle 
fresh  bread  crumbs  over  the  top,  and  a  piece  of  butter  divided  into 
small  pieces,  and  bake  in  an  oven. 

PUREE   OF   EGG   PLANT. 

No.  683. — Cut  three  Egg  Plants  into  halves  and  fry  them  in  hot 
lard.  Then  drain  them  on  a  napkin  with  the  cut  side  on  the 
bottom.  When  cold  peel  them,  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  let  them  simmer  until 
the  moisture  is  reduced.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Add 
four  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce,  and  when  well  mixed 
rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

STUFFED   EGG   PLANT,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  684. — Cut  four  Egg  Plants  into  halves  lengthwise,  and  with 
a  knife  cut  around  the  inner  part,  close  to  the  skin,  without  detach- 
ing it.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  and  drain  them  on  a  linen  towel,  the 
side  which  is  cut  being  downward.  Then  scoop  out  the  middle 
part  so  as  to  leave  only  the  shell.  When  they  are  all  prepared  chop 
finely  that  which  you  scoop  out  of  the  Egg  Plant.  Put  in  a  sauce- 
pan two  fine  chopped  onions  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  them 
lightly  and  add  the  chopped  Egg  Plant  with  four  ounces  of  fine 
chopped  mushrooms.  Reduce  the  moisture,  then  add  four  spoon- 
fuls of  Espagnole  sauce,  one  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  a 
little  fine  chopped  parsley.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 
Stir  them  well  together,  adding  in  slowly  the  yolks  of  five  raw  eggs. 
"When  well  mixed  fill  the  shell  of  the  Egg  Plant,  arrange  them 
together  in  a  buttered  pan,  sprinkle  bread  crumbs  over  them,  put 
a  piece  of  butter  in  each  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven.  Serve  with 
a  brown  Italian  sauce. 

STUFFED   EGG  PLANT,  BRAZILIAN   STYLE. 

No.  685. — Prepare  the  Egg  Plant  the  same  as  No.  683.  Add  to 
the  stuffing  four  soup-spoonfuls  of  fine  chopped  capers,  with  two 
teaspoonfnls  of  anchovie  paste.  Serve  with  a  reduced  Espagnole 
sauce. 

STUFFED   EGG  PLANT,  TURKISH   STYLE. 

No.  686.— Prepare  the  Egg  Plant  as  in  No.  683.  Cook  in 
white  broth  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice.  When  well  cooked 
and  dry,  chop  two  onions  fine  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  three  spoonfuls  of  olive  oil.  Fry  them  lightly,  and  then 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  155 

add  one  clove  of  fine  chopped  garlic,  the  chopped  Egg 
Plant,  and  the  same  quantity  of  roast  mutton  cut  into  small 
pieces.  Let  it  simmer  slowly  and  then  add  the  rice.  Season  it 
with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper,  and  add  four  spoonfuls  of 
Tomato  sauce  and  some  fine  chopped  parsley.  Mix  all  well  together 
and  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Then  stuff  the  Egg  Plant  with  this 
preparation  and  sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  each.  Arrange 
them  in  a  buttered  pan,  with  a  few  drops  of  olive  oil  over  each,  bake 
them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve  with  a  reduced  Tomato  sauce. 

STUFFED   EGG   PLANT,  PARISIAN   STYLE. 

No.  687.— Prepare  three  Egg  Plants  as  in  No.  683.  Stuff  them 
with  the  following  preparation:  chop  three  white  onions  fine,  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  them  lightly.  Add 
the  Egg  Plant,  which  you  cut  into  small,  square  pieces,  also  the 
breast  of  two  roast  chickens,  same  quantity  of  roast  pork,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  marrow.  Let  it  simmer  for  twenty  minutes, 
and  then  add  one  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Season  it  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  then  add  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs.  Mix 
the  whole  well  together,  adding  some  fine  chopped  parsley.  Having 
filled  the  Egg  Plants  with  the  stuffing,  sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs 
over  them,  with  a  piece  of  butter  on  each.  Bake  them  in  an  oven 
and  serve  with  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce. 

EGG   PLANTS,  FOE   GARNITURE. 

No.  688. — Use  small  Egg  Plants,  and  stuff  them  as  in  Nos.  683, 
684,  685,  and  686.  For  entrees  of  broiled  meats  use  the  puree  as  in 
No.  682,  to  which  you  may  add  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce  in 
place  of  Allemande  sauce,  as  may  be  required. 

EGG   PLANT   SALAD. 

No.  689. — Peel  two  middle  sized  Egg  Plants,  cut  them  in  slices 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  sprinkle  each  slice  with  a  little  salt,  and 
put  them  together  again.  After  half  an  hour  press  them  gently,  to 
extract  the  moisture.  *Then  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Fry  them 
lightly  in  clarified  butter,  then  drain  them,  on  a  napkin.  When 
cold  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  salad  bowl,  with  some 
scolloped  pickled  sturgeon,  a  spoonful  of  grated  horse-radish 
mixed  with  mustard,  a  clove  of  fine  chopped  garlic,  a  little  fine 
chopped  parsley,  and  a  handful  of  water  cress.  Season  them  with 
salt,  pepper,  olive  oil,  and  vinegar.  Mix  the  whole  well  together, 
then  arrange  them  properly,  and  garnish  them  with  stoned  olives 
and  hard  boiled  eggs  cut  into  quarters. 


156  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


LXXXIV 


French  EGYPTIAN      CUCUMBER.  German 

Concombre  Egyptien.  Egyptische  Gurke. 

No.  690. — This  is  a  tender  annual  plant,  that  is  seldom  cultivated 
in  this  country.  The  fruit  is  small,  oblong,  and  very  hairy,  and  is 
eaten  either  raw  or  cooked.  In  Egypt,  a  refreshing  and  agreeable 
beverage  is  made  from  the  bulbs.  Its  culture  is  the  same  as  that 
of  cucumbers  or  melons. 


ARTICLE  LXXXV. 


ELDERBERRIES. 

Graine  de  Surreau.  Hollunderbeere. 

No.  691. — The  Elderberry  tree  is  found  in  all  parts  of  this 
country,  the  flowery  buds  and  fruit  being  used.  The  flowery  buds 
are  used  for  diet  drinks.  Pick  them  in  bunches  in  the  morning, 
before  the  rising  of  the  sun,  put  them  in  a  wooden  tub  and  cover  it 
with  a  blanket.  When  the  heat  will  have  expanded  them,  pick  off 
the  flowers,  spread  them  out  on  a  table,  and  when  perfectly  dry, 
put  them  in  boxes,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry,  dark  place.  The 
berries  when  ripe  are  used  for  making  and  coloring  red  wine. 

ELDERBERRY   CATSUP. 

No.  692. — Pick  two  quarts  of  ripe  Elderberries,  put  them  in  an 
earthen  jar  and  pour  two  quarts  of  boiled  wine  vinegar  over  them. 
After  three  days  drain  them  and  put  the  liquid  in  a  saucepan, 
adding  two  spoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  pepper  corn,  a 
teaspoonful  of  ginger,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace,  and  a  soup 
spoonful  of  Anchovie  paste.  Let  it  boil  for  half  an  hour,  stirring 
it  occasionally,  and  then  pour  it  over  the  berries  again.  Cover  it 
when  cold,  and  after  three  days  strain  it  through  a  towel,  then  put 
it  in  bottles  and  cork  them  well. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  157 


ARTICLE  LXXXVI 


Frci.c!l  ELECAMPANE.  German 

Aunie.  Alantwurzel. 

No.  693. — Is  a  hardy,  herbaceous,  perennial  plant,  growing  spon- 
taneously in  moist  places  and  in  the  vicinity  of  gardens  where  it 
has  once  been  cultivated.  The  stem  is  from  three  to  five  feet  high, 
thick  and  strong,  branching  towards  the  top.  The  leaves  are  from 
nine  inches  to  one  foot  in  length,  oval-toothed  on  the  margin,  and 
downy  below.  The  flower  resembles  a  small  sunflower,  and  is 
general  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots,  but  may  be  grown  from 
seeds,  which  are  sown  just  after  ripening.  Elecampane  is  cultivated 
for  its  roots,  which  are  carminative,  sudorific,  tonic,  and  alleviating 
in  pulmonary  diseases.  They  are  in  perfection  when  of  two  years' 
growth. 


LXXXVII. 


ENDIVE,  OR  CHICOREE. 

Chicorea  ou  Scarole.  Endive,  or  Cichorie. 

No,  694. — The  Endive,  in  its  natural  state,  is  very  bitter,  but  when 
properly  blanched  its  leaves  make  a  fine  salad,  and  coming  as  it 
does,  after  the  Lettuce,  it  is  very  useful  for  autumn  and  winter 
salad.  There  are  two  special  kinds,  of  which  there  are  ten 
different  varieties.  The  Wild  Chicoree,  known  as  the  Dandelion, 
is  mostly  eaten  in  salad  when  young  and  tender.  The  cultivated 
Endive  (broad  leaf)  is  u*ed  as  a  vegetable,  and  is  prepared  the 
same  as  spinach. 

CULTURE. 

No.  695. — It  may  be  grown  at  any  season  of  the  year,  but  is 
generally  used  late  in  the  fall.  Sow  the  seed  during  June  or  July, 
in  drills  fourteen  inches  apart,  and  when  well  up  thin  the  plants  to 
one  foot  apart.  "When  nearly  full  grown  tie  the  outer  leaves 
together  over  the  centre,  in  order  to  blanch  the  heart  of  the  plant. 
They  will  usually  be  fit  for  the  table  in  ten  days,  and  will  continue 
in  condition  for  use  for  about  one  week,  so  that  the  tieing  up  should 
be  done  every  few  days,  in  order  to  secure  a  succession. 


158  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

FRENCH  MOSS. 

No.  696. — Is  beautifully  curled,  and  when  well  developed  appears 
like  a  tuft  of  moss. 

BROAD-LEAVED   BAT  AVIAN. 

No.  697. — This  is  the  chicoree  (scarole)  of  the  French  kind,  and 
is  chiefly  used  for  cooking,  but,  when  the  outer  leaves  are  gathered 
and  tied  at  the  top,  the  whole  plant  will  blanch  nicely  and  make  an 
excellent  salad  for  the  table. 

GREEN   CURLED. 

No.  698. — Is  the  hardiest  variety,  with  beautifully  curled  dark 
green  leaves,  which  blanch  white  and  are  very  crisp  and  tender. 

ENDIVES,  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE. 

No.  699. — Select  six  young  and  tender  heads  of  Endives.  Trim 
off  the  three  outer  hard  layers  of  green  leaves,  trim  the  edges  of 
the  others,  cut  off  the  roots  and  wash  the  heads  in  plenty  of  cold 
water.  Separate  the  leaves,  as  there  are  liable  to  be  small  worms 
in  them,  and  then  drain  them.  Have  some  lightly  salted  boiling- 
water  in  a  saucepan.  Put  in  the  Endives,  let  them  cook  until  ten- 
der and  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water.  Tlien  drain  them  and 
press  them  dry  between  the  palms  of  the  hands.  Chop  them  fine 
on  a  chopping  board.  Then  put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  when  it  is  melted  add  the  chopped  Endives,  stirring  them 
well  over  a  brisk  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Season  them  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce.  When 
it  is  all  well  mixed  and  thoroughly  warmed,  serve  it  with  small 
pieces  of  toasted  broad  around  the  dish. 

ENDIVES,   GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  700. — Prepare  the  Endives  as  in  No.  699.  Add  two  spoon- 
fuls of  flour  when  the  butter  is  melted,  and  let  them  cook  to  a  light 
brown  while  stirring  well.  Then  add  the  Endives.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  while  mixing  it  all  well  together 
add  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk.  Then  serve  it. 

ENDIVES   WITH  POACHED  EGGS. 

No.  701. — Prepare  the  Endives  as  in  No.  699.  Add  Allemande 
sauce  in  place  of  Cream  sauce,  and  garnish  with  poached  eggs, 
having  a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze  on  each  egg. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE. 

\  ' 

ENDIVES  WITH  VEAL  GRAVY. 

No.  702. — When  the  Endives  are  prepared  as  in  No.  699,  chop- 
then!  coarsely.  Then  put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and 
when  it  is  melted  add  two  spoonfuls  of  flour.  Cook  it  to  a  light 
brown  while  stirring  it,  add  them  and  the  Endives.  Season  them 
with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Mix  them  well,  and  add  in  slowly  a 
pint  of  veal  gravy.  Add  a  piece  of  butter  before  serving. 

PUEEE   OF   ENDIVES. 

No.  703. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Endives  as  in  No.  699.  Then 
chop  them  fine.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Stir  it  well  over  a  brisk 
fire  and  add  four  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Allernande  or  Cream  sauce. 
Then  rub  the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  back  in  the 
saucepan  to  warm  thoroughly.  Then  add  a  spoonful  of  half-glaze 
and  a  piece  of  butter,  and  serve  it. 

ENDIVE   SALAD,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  704. — Wash  and  trim  the  endives  carefully,  separate  the 
leaves,  drain  them  and  put  them  in  a  salad  bowl.  Bub  a  clove  of 
garlic  on  two  pieces  of  bread  crust  about  the  size  of  a  dollar  (this 
is  called  chapon).  Add  them  to  the  salad  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  vinegar  and  olive  oil,  and  mix  it  all  gently  together. 

NOTE.— Dress  the  salad  only  when  ready  to  serve. 

ENDIVE   SAL1D,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  705. — Prepare  the  Endive*  as  in  No.  704.  Season  it  with 
salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  olive  oil,,  and  add  some  fine  chopped  pars- 
ley or  chives,  aad  half  as  much  fine  sliced  boiled  new  potatoes  as 
there  is  salad.  Mix  it  all  gently  together  and  garnish  it  with  pickled 
beets  and  hard  boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves. 

ENDIVE    SALAD,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  706.— Trim  and  carefully  wash  the  Endives,  separate  the 
leaves  and  put  them  on  a  napkin  to  absorb  the  moisture.  Then  put 
them  in  a  salad  bowl,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  olive  oil  and 
vinegar,  and  add  some  fine  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil.  Put 
two  fine  chopped  shallots  in  a  towel  and  dip  them  in  boiling 
water  for  one  minute.  Then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  wring 
them  dry  and  put  them  in  the  salad,  mixing  it  gently  together. 


160  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

Arrange  it  properly,  placing  on  the  top  some  fine  sliced  green  bell 
peppers.     Garnish  it  with  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  quarters. 

SOUP — CREAM  OF  ENDIVE  WITH  POACHED  EGGS. 

No.  707. — Prepare  one  gallon  of  thickened  chicken  or  veal  broth. 
Trim  and  wash  eight  Endives  carefully,  and  boil  them  in  water 
lightly  salted.  When  boiled  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  then 
drain  them  and  press  them  dry.  Chop  them  in  small  pieces,  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Put  them  on  a  brisk  fire 
and  stir  them  well  until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  pour  in 
the  chicken  broth  slowly,  and  let  it  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Then 
skim  it  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  it  back  in  the 
saucepan  to  keep  warm.  Before  serving  it  dilute  eight  raw  eggs  in 
a  pint  of  cream,  and  add  it  to  the  soup,  with  six  ounces  of  butter. 
Stir  it  all  well  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve  separately  a  dish 
of  poached  eggs  in  broth. 

ENDIVES  PRESERVED  IN  CANS. 

No.  708. — Select  four  dozen  Endives,  trim  off  the  outer  green 
leaves,  and  wash  the  remainder  in  plenty  of  cold  water.  Parboil 
them  until  tender,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  drain  them 
and  press  them  dry.  Then  chop  them  coarsely,  and  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Set  the  pan  on  a  brisk  fire, 
stirring  well  until  all  of  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  put  them 
in  an  earthen  jar  to  get  cold.  When  cold  put  them  in  quart  tin 
cans,  solder  on  the  covers,  and  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  water  bath 
for  two  hours. 


ARTICLK 


French  FARINA.  German 

Farina.  .      Farina. 

No.  709. — Farina  is  made  from  wheat  or  corn  and  is  largely  sold 
under  the  name  of  Semoule,  which,  however,  is  a  different  article. 
Farina  was  the  first  and  principal  food  of  the  ancient  Bornans.  It 
is  used  in  soups,  puddings  and  other  pastry  preparations.  When 
it  is  cooked  in  milk  and  sweetened  it  makes  an  agreeable  diet  for 
invalids.  It  also  makes  a  nice  gruel  when  made  with  milk,  water  or 
broth. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  161 

FARINA  (POLENTA)  OF  CORN  MEAL,  PIEMONTAISE. 

No.  710. — Put  three  quarts  of  water  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it 
boils  add  a  little  salt  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Then  drop  in  slowly 
two  pounds  of  corn  rneal  Farina,  while  stirring  it.  When  it 
commences  to  thicken  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly 
for  twenty-five  minutes,  stirring  it  up  from  the  bottom  occasionally. 
When  it  is  cooked  take  it  off  of  the  fire  and  add  six  ounces  of 
butter  and  six  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  mixing  it  all  well 
together.  Then  put  it  in  Charlotte  moulds,  that  are  buttered  with 
clarified  butter,  and  keep  them  warm  until  ready  for  use,  when  you 
will  turn  them  out  and  sprinkle  grated  Parmesan  cheese  over  them. 
Serve  them  with  a  reduced  beef  gravy,  in  which  put  some  essence 
of  mushrooms. 

NOTE. — Broth  may  be  used  instead  of  water.    If  cooked  this  way  serve  a  tureeu  of  game  consomme 
with  them. 

FARINA  (POLENTA)  OF  CORN  MEAL  ON  SKIVERS. 

No.  711. — Cook  the  Farina  the  same  as  in  No.  710,  but  keep  it 
firmer.  When  cooked  take  it  off  of  the  fire  and  add  a  piece  of  butter 
and  some  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Then  pour  it  in  a  buttered 
pan,  having  it  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  put  a  buttered 
paper  cover  over  it,  and  set  it  on  ice  to  get  cold.  Cut  out  as  many 
pieces  as  possible,  the  size  of  a  twenty-five  cent  piece,  with  a  round 
cutter.  Then  cut  some  Swiss  cheese  in  thin  slices,  and  with  the 
same  cutter  cut  out  the  same  number  of  pieces  as  you  have  of  the 
Farina.  Take  a  four  inch  wooden  skiver  and  place  on  it  a  ring  of 
the  Farina,  and  then  a  ring  of  cheese,  alternating  in  this  way  until 
three  inches  are  covered.  Then  roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs, 
dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  then  bread  them  again.  Mould  them 
neatly  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard.  When  nicely  browned  drain  them 
and  replace  the  wooden  skiver  with  a  silver  one.  Serve  them  on  a 
napkin. 

FARINA  CRUSTS   (POLENTA)   OF   CORN   MEAL,  ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  712. — Cook  the  Farina  as  in  No.   710,   but  keep  it  firmer. 

When  it  is  cooked,  add  four  ounces  of  butter  and  six  ounces  of 

grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  mix  them  well  together.     Then  put  it 

in  one  dozen  small,  round  buttered  Charlotte  moulds.     Smooth  the 

tops  evenly,  cover  them  with  a  buttered  paper  and  set  them  in  a 

•  cool  place.     When  they  are  cold  turn  them  out.     Remove  the  paper 

cover,  roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs. 

Then  bread   them   again   and  shape  them  nicely.     Make   a  light 

impression  on  the  top  of  each  with  a  small  cutter.     Then  fry  them 

11 


162  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

in  hot  lard,  and  when  nicely  browned,  drain  them.  After  this, 
take  off  the  small  cover  and  scoop  out  the  center,  (taking  care  not 
to  break  the  shell),  and  fill  them  with  the  following  preparation: 

Put  the  yolks  of  five  raw  eggs  in  a  saucepan,  add  a  pinch  of  nut- 
meg, and  dilute  it  all  with  half  a  pint  of  cream.  Add  to  it  one  pound 
of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Set  it  on  a  moderate  fire  and  stir  it 
until  the  cheese  is  melted.  (Do  not  let  it  boil.)  It  should  have  the 
consistency  of  a  sauce. 

When  filled,  serve  them  hot. 

PARINA  CRUSTS  OR  STANDS,  OF  CORN  MEAL,  FOR  HOT  OR  COLD  SIDE  DISHES. 

No.  713. — These  crusts  or  stands  are  made  either  with  bread, 
rice  or  Farina.  Those  made  with  Farina  are  better  than  those  with 
rice,  for  hot  dishes,  as  they  are  not  so  heavy,  and  are  better  than 
those  made  with  bread,  as  the  Farina  does  not  absorb  the  moisture 
as  quick  as  the  bread  when  they  lay  for  any  length  of  time.  Cook 
the  Farina  in  water,  lightly  salted,  keeping  it  firm.  When  it  is 
cooked  put  it  in  a  buttered  mould  as  near  the  size  of  the  crust  as 
possible,  that  you  intend  making.  Smooth  the  surface,  cover  it 
with  a  buttered  paper,  cover  and  put  on  this  a  wooden  cover  with  a 
weight  on  top  to  press  the  Farina  down  solid  in  the  mould.  Lay  it 
aside  to  get  cold  and  hard.  Then  take  it  out  of  the  mould,  and  with 
a  small  sharp  knife  cut  it  into  any  shape  desired.  Dip  it  in  beaten 
eggs  and  then  in  fresh  bread  crumbs  or  raspings  of  bread,  and  fry  it 
in  hot  lard  until  nicely  browned.  Then  drain  it  and  keep  it  for  use. 

FARINA  TARTLETS   OF   CORN  MEAL. 

No.  714. — Cook  the  Farina  as  in  No.  710,  and  keep  it  firm.  But- 
ter some  small  Tartlet  moulds  with  clarified  butter  and  set  them  in  a 
cool  place  to  let  the  butter  get  cold.  Put  the  Farina  into  the 
moulds  with  a  table  knife,  leaving  a  space  in  the  center  for  filling. 
Fill  the  center  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  smooth  off  the 
top.  Then  set  them  in  a  cool  place,  and  when  they  are  cold  take 
them  out  of  the  moulds.  Bread  them  in  a  mixture  of  half  bread 
crumbs  and  half  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Then  dip  them  in  beaten 
eggs  and  bread  them  again  with  the  same  mixture.  Shape  them 
well,  then  fry  them  in  hot  lard  until  nicely  browned.  Then  drain 
them,  dish  them  up  on  a  napkin  and  serve  them  hot. 

FARINA   QUENELLES,  OR  BALLS,  OF   CORN   MEAL. 

No.  715. — These  are  made  nearly  the  same  as  Tartlets,  except 
that  Gruyere  cheese  is  used  instead  of  Parmesan  cheese.  When 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  163 

they  are  cold  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard. 
They  may  be  used  as  a  garniture  or  served  the  same  as  Tartlets. 

FRIED   FARINA   (POLENTA)    OF   CORN  MEAL,    RAMEQUIN. 

No.  716. — Cook  one  pound  of  Farina  as  in  No.  710.  When  it  is 
cooked  take  it  off  of  the  fire,  add  three  ounces  of  butter  divided 
into  small  pieces,  and  four  ounces  cf  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 
Season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  mix  it 
well  together.  Moisten  the  pan  slightly  with  cold  water  and  drop  a 
soup-spoonful  of  the  Polenta  into  it  so  it  will  spread  out  a  little,  and 
continue  doing  this  until  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  well  covered, 
keeping  each  cake  separate.  Put  some  grated  Parmesan  cheese  in 
the  center  of  each,  or  a  small  piece  of  Gruyere  cheese.  Now  cover 
each  piece  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  Polenta  and  set  the  pan  aside,  so 
the  cakes  will  get  cold.  With  a  cutter  about  the  size  of  a  dollar 
cut  out  the  cakes  to  a  round  shape.  Take  them  out  of  the  pan,  dip 
them  in  beaten  eggs  and  then  in  bread  crumbs.  Put  a  little  clarified 
butter  in  a  frying  pan,  and  when  it  is  warm  add  the  Ramequin  (not 
putting  too  many  in  the  pan  at  a  time),  and  fry  them  on  both  sides 
to  a  nice  brown.  Serve  them  on  a  napkin  with  fried  parsley  as  a 
garniture. 

FARINA  (POLENTA)  FOR  GARNITURES. 

No.  717. — When  the  Polenta  is  cooked  as  in  No.  710,  put  it  in 
small  round  buttered  Charlotte  moulds  and  keep  them  warm.  Then 
turn  them  out  and  use  them  for  large  garnitures.  They  are  espe- 
cially appropriate  for  Italian  dinners.  Those  prepared  as  in  Nos. 
713,  714,  715  and  716  can  also  be  used  as  garnitures. 

FARINA  GRUEL. 

No.  718. — Boil  one  pint  of  water,  milk  or  broth,  and  when  boil- 
ing drop  in  it  four  soup-spoonfuls  of  Farina,  stirring  it  well.  Let 
it  cook  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Sweeten  or  season  to  taste. 


ARTICLE 


French  FECULA.  German 

Fecule.  Fecula. 

No.  719. — Fecula  is  the  nutritious  part  of  wheat,  starch,  farina 
or  potatoes.     It  is  used  in  sauces  and  soups,  being  devoid  of  flavor, 


164  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

and  is  nutritious,  healthful  and  light.  It  can  be  used  for  every 
purpose  that  arrow  root  is  used  for.  In  cooking  Fecula  for  inva- 
lids, it  should  be  first  diluted  in  cold  water  and  then  put  in  boiling 
milk,  broth  or  water.  About  two  spoonfuls  is  sufficient  for  a  pint 
of  liquid.  Stir  it  well  when  putting  it  in.  Let  it  cook  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  and  then  season  or  sweeten  it  as  may  be  desired. 


xc. 


French  SWEET   FENNEL.  German 

Fenouil.  fenchel. 

No.  720. — Sweet  Fennel  is  a  hardy,  perennial,  aromatic  plant,  of 
which  there  are  several  varieties.  The  common,  or  bitter  fennel, 
has  strong,  deep,  fleshy  roots,  and  the  seeds  have  a  brownish  color 
and  a  bitter  taste  similar  to  the  leaves.  Sweet  Fennel  seeds  are 
used  by  confectioners  and  distillers,  and  the  leaves  are  used  for 
flavoring  soups  and  sauces.  The  seeds  resemble  anise  seeds. 

CULTURE. 

No.  721. — Fennel  is  cultivated  the  same  as  anise.  Italian  Fennel 
is  quite  distinct  from  the  common  variety,  and  is  cultivated 
annually.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  umbels,  as  in  the  other 
species.  The  seeds  are  yellowish  in  color,  slender,  slightly  curved, 
and  have  a  pleasant  anise  like  taste.  When  the  stems  have  attained 
a  sufficient  size,  they  should  be  earthed  up,  the  same  as  celery,  to 
blanch.  If  properly  treated  the  stems  will  be  white,  crisp  and 
tender  in  about  three  weeks.  When  blanched  they  lose  their  bitter 
taste  and  are  excellent  for  salads,  possessing  a  sweet,  pleasant, 
aromatic  taste,  and  may  be  served  the  same  way  as  plain  celery  for 
a  relish. 

STEWED   FENNEL. 

No.  722. — Wash  the  Fennel  in  plenty  of  cold  water  and  trim  off 
the  hard  leaves.  Parboil  them  for  five  minutes,  then  immerse  them 
in  cold  water,  and  trim  them  evenly.  Then  cook  them  the  same  as 
celery,  in  No.  462.  Pour  over  them  some  Butter,  Allemande  or 
Espagnole  sauce. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  165 


XCI. 


French  FLAVORS,    ESSENCES,    AND    EXTRACTS.  German 

Essence.  Extrakt. 

No.  723. — Flavors,  essences  and  extracts,  are  used  by  confec- 
tioners and  pastry  cooks,  and  for  various  culinary  purposes,  to 
impart  an  agreeable  aroma,  and  are  purchased  in  liquid  form.  The 
best  quality  should  always  be  procured.  Aromatic  herbs  and  plants 
are  used  in  making  coffee,  tea,  wine,  juleps,  and  many  other  drinks. 
The  concentrated  essence  of  meat,  game,  fish,  or  vegetables,  when 
added  to  sauces  and  other  culinary  preparations  gives  a  splendid 
flavor  and  is  greatly  relished. 

ESSENCE   OF   VEGETABLES. 

No.  724. — Put  in  a  saucepan  four  pounds  of  rump  of  beef,  a 
shin  of  veal  cut  in  pieces,  one  hen,  ten  carrots,  eight  onions,  five 
turnips,  two  heads  of  lettuce,  two  heads  of  celery,  a  faggot  of 
chervil,  and  half  a  dozen  cloves.  Pour  one  gallon  of  broth 
over  this  and  let  it  boil.  Skim  it  well  and  let  it  cook  slowly  until 
well  done.  Then  strain  the  broth,  and  if  not  strong  enough 
reduce  it  to  one  quart. 


ARTICLE  XCII. 


FLOUR. 

Farine.  Mehl. 

No.  725. — Flour  is  the  finely  ground  meal  of  wheat  or  any  other 
grain,  and  has  many  grades  and  varieties.  It  is  much  used  for 
alimentary  purposes,  and  the  best  should  always  be  procured.  The 
flour  used  in  making  bread  is  of  a  different  quality  than  that  of 
which  pastry  is  made.  Flour  when  dried  in  the  oven  and  lightly 
colored  or  cooked  with  butter  to  a  light  brown,  gives  a  better  flavor 
to  sauces.  It  also  makes  a  healthful  soup  and  is  more  digestible 
than  when  used  raw. 

REPERE. 

No.  726. — Eepere  is  flour  mixed  with  the  white  of  eggs  into  a 
paste,  and  is  used  to  make  crusts  stands,  or  any  borders  adhere 
to  a  dish. 


166  HAEDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLE  XCIII 


French  GARBURE.  German 

Garbure.  Garbilr. 

No.  727. — Garbure  is  an  old  and  popular  soup  in  Gascony,  France. 
It  is  composed  principally  of  vegetables,  the  basis  always  being 
gratinated.  For  its  preparation  see  the  Book  on  Soups. 


ARTICLK  XCIV. 


GARLIC. 

Ail.  Knoblauch. 

No.  728. — Garlic  is  a  bulbous  rooted  plant,  having  a  strong,  pen- 
etrating odor.  The  bulb  is  composed  of  many  smaller  bulbs  called 
cloves.  It  is  not  popular  with  Americans,  although  used  consid- 
erably in  Europe  and  in  the  Southern  States.  It  should  be 
used  with  moderation,  as  the  breath  of  persons  who  eat  Garlic  is 
very  offensive.  It  is  used  in  many  preparations,  but  can  be  omitted 
and  replaced  by  using  shallots  or  onions,  when  desired.  Garlic, 
when  used  in  salad,  should  be  rubbed  on  a  crust  of  bread  (called 
chapon).  When  used  for  stews,  etc.,  and  left  whole,  its  flavor  will 
not  be  strong  and  penetrating  as  when  mashed  or  chopped,  and 
gives  the  preparation  an  appetizing  and  agreeable  taste,  especially 
in  mutton  stews. 

CULTURE. 

No.  729. — Prepare  the  ground  the  same  as  for  onions.  Plant  the 
bulbs  in  drills  eight  inches  apart,  and  four  inches  apart  in  rows, 
and  cover  them  two  inches  deep.  When  the  leaves  turn  yellow, 
take  up  the  bulbs  and  dry  them  as  you  would  do  with  onions. 

GARLIC  BUTTER  OR   GASCONY  BUTTER. 

No.  730. — Boil  one  dozen  cloves  of  Garlic  for  ten  minutes.  Then 
drain  them  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  half  a  pound  of  but- 
ter. Add  a  little  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper,  and  when  well 
mixed,  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  167 

CHAPON  FOR   SALAD  DRESSING.  , 

No.  731. — This  is  principally  used  when  dressing  endives  or 
dandelion  for  salad,  but  may  be  used  in  all  green  salads  to  give  it  a 
Garlic  flavor.  Cut  a  crust  of  bread  the  size  of  half  a  dollar,  rub  it 
with  the  clove  of  Garlic  and  mix  it  in  with  the  salad. 

PUREE   OF   GARLIC. 

No.  732. — Peel  one  dozen  Garlic  bulbs  and  parboil  them  in  plenty 
of  water  lightly  salted,  until  they  are  cooked.  Then  drain  them 
and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Set  it  on  a 
brisk  fire  to  reduce  the  moisture.  Season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of 
red  pepper  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  puree  in  a 
saucepan  and  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Espagnole  sauce. 
Before  serving,  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

NOTE.— This  puree  should  only  be  made  when  ordered  specially. 


ARTICLE  XCV. 


French  GHERKIN.  German 

Achars  ou  Cornichon.  Essiggurke,  or  Pfefftrgurke. 

No.  733. — The  Gherkin  is  a  native  of  the  West  Indies  and  is  not 
a  cucumber  proper,  but  is  a  little  rough,  prickly  fruit  of  compara- 
tively small  size,  with  a  regular  oval  formation.  It  grows  on  a 
pretty  vine,  having  leaves  similar  to  the  watermelon,  and  is  princi- 
pally grown  for  pickling.  It  is  seldom  used  at  the  table  in  its  raw 
state.  In  America  small  cucumbers  are  used,  and  when  pickled  are 
called  Gherkins.  See  Cucumbers,  Article  LXXVI. 


XCVI. 


GINGER. 

Gingembre.  Ingwer. 

No.  734. — Ginger  is  an  aromatic  plant,  a  native  of  Hindostan, 
and  is  cultivated  in  all  parts  of  India  and  China.  The  root  is  the 
portion  in  which  the  virtues  of  the  plant  reside.  After  the  roots 


168  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKEEY, 

are  gathered  and  cleansed  they  are  scalded  in  boiling  water,  to 
prevent  germination,  and  are  then  rapidly  dried.  This  is  the  ordinary 
black  ginger,  most  of  which  comes  from  Calcutta,  and  is  called  East 
India  Ginger.  In  Jamaica  another  variety  is  prepared  by  selecting 
the  best  roots,  depriving  them  of  their  epidermis  and  drying  them 
carefully  in  the  sun.  This  is  the  highly  valued  white  Ginger, 
generally  called  Jamaica  Ginger.  A  preserve  is  made  from  Ginger 
by  selecting  the  young  roots,  depriving  them  of  their  cortical 
covering  and  boiling  them  in  syrup.  This  is  imported  from  the 
East  and  West  Indies,  and  from  China.  When  good  it  is  translucent 
and  tender.  The  odor  of  Ginger  is  aromatic  and  penetrating,  the 
taste  spicy,  pungent,  hot,  and  biting.  These  properties  gradually 
diminish  and  are  ultimately  lost  by  exposure.  It  is  used  by  pastry 
cooks,  and  confectioners,  in  putting  up  spiced  preserves  and  fruits. 
Pieces  of  Ginger  that  are  light  and  friable,  worm-eaten  or  very 
fibrous,  should  be  rejected.  Ginger  is  often  adulterated  with  rice- 
starch,  flour-ginger,  brick  dust,  chalk,  capsicum,  and  mustard. 
Ginger  is  a  grateful  stimulant  and  carminative,  and  is  often  given 
in  dyspepsia,  flatulent  colic,  and  the  feeble  state  of  the  alimentary 
canal  attendant  upon  atonic  gout. 


ARTICLE  XCVII. 


French  GLOBE   CUCUMBER.  German 

Concombre  des  Propfettes.  Kugelgurke. 

No.  735. — The  Globe  Cucumber  is  a  tender  annual  plant  and  is 
said  to  have  originated  in  Arabia.  The  fruit  is  round  and  small, 
being  thickly  set  with  rigid  bristles.  In  its  green  state  it  is 
generally  pickled  and  can  be  prepared  the  same  as  ordinary  cucum- 
bers. Globe  Cucumbers  are  not  generally  preferred  to  the  ordinary 
kind. 


ARTICLE  XCVIII. 


GOOSEFOOT,  OR  WHITE  QUINOA, 

Anserine,  Ktebekraul. 

No.  736. — Is  an  annual  plant  propagated  from  seeds,  and  is  from 
the  southern  part  of  the  United  States.  There  are  three  varieties:  The 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  169 

white,  the  red,  and  the  black.  The  white  seed  is  preferred.  The  stem 
is  five  feet  high  with  pale  green  leaves.  The  flowers  have  a  whitish 
color  and  are  produced  in  clusters.  The  seeds  are  small,  of  a 
yellowish-white  color,  resembling  the  millet.  The  leaves  are  used 
the  same  as  greens.  The  seeds  are  used  the  same  as  common  wheat, 
and  for  medicinal  purposes. 

CULTURE. 

No.  737. — If  grown  in  good  soil  the  plant  will  produce  an  abun- 
dance of  foliage.  Sow  it  in  May,  in  drills  four  feet  apart,  and  as  it- 
grows,  thin  out  gradually  a  foot  apart  in  the  rows. 


ARTICLE  XCIX. 


French  GRAHAM   FLOUR.  German 

Graham  Farine.  Graham  Mehl. 

No.  738. — Graham  Flour  is  taken  from  the  name  of  Sylvester 
Graham,  a  lecturer  on  dietetics,  and  is  merely  unbolted  wheat.  It 
is  used  in  making  bread,  pastry  and  gruels,  which  will  be  described 
in  the  book  on  Pastry. 

GEAHAM   GRIDDLE   CAKES. 

No.  739. — Put  one  pound  of  Indian  meal  in  a  bowl  and  add  one  pint 
of  warm  water  and  two  quarts  of  cold  milk.  Mix  with  this  one  pound 
of  Graham  Flour  to  make  a  light  batter.  Then  add  one  ounce  of 
dissolved  compressed  yeast  and  a  large  spoonful  of  molasses.  Mix 
it  well  together,  cover  it  with  a  towel  and  let  it  rest  over  night.  In 
the  morning  add  a  handful  of  white  flour,  a  little  salt,  a  spoonful  of 
melted  butter,  a  pinch  of  soda,  and  a  little  water,  if  necessary,  to 
make  a  light  batter.  Cook  it  the  same  as  Buckwheat  Cakes,  No. 
268. 


ARTICLE  C. 


HERBS. 

Herbe.  KrSuter. 

No.  740. — No  garden  is  complete  without  a  few  Herbs  for  culinary 
or  medicinal  purposes,  and  care  should  be  taken  to  harvest  them 


170  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

properly.  This  should  be  done  on  a  dry  day,  just  before  they  come 
into  full  bloom.  They  should  then  be  dried  and  packed  away 
closely. 

CULTURE. 

No.  741. — Sow  them  in  spring  in  shallow  drills,  one  foot  apart, 
and  when  well  up  thin  out  or  transplant  them  to  a  proper  distance 
apart. 

FINE  HERBS  FOR  CULINARY  PURPOSES. 

COOKED   FINE   HERBS. 

No.  742. — Chop  one  white  onion  finely,  or  use  half  an  onion  and 
half  a  shallot,  as  may  be  required.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  cover  the  pan,  and  let  them  cook  slowly,  (not  letting 
them  get  browned.)  When  they  are  cooked,  add  some  finely-chopped 
parsley  and  some  finely-chopped  mushrooms  (truffles  if  needed),  and 
let  them  cook  until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  add  a  spoonful 
of  veal  glaze  and  put  it  away  in  an  earthen  bowl  for  future  use. 

FINE   HERBS  EAW. 

No.  743.  —  These  comprise  parsley,  chives,  fennel,  tarragon, 
chervil,  shallots  and  onions  being  used  separately  or  mixed,  as  may 
be  required. 

DUXELLE. 

No.  744. — Prepare  Duxelle  the  same  as  you  would  cooked  fine 
herbs,  and  when  cooked  add  two  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Allemande 
sauce.  For  a  brown  Duxelle  use  a  reduced  Espagnole  sauce. 

FINE  HERB   SAUCE. 

No.  745. — Chop  one  large  onion  finely  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  it  lightly,  and  then  add  a  handful  of 
finely  chopped  fresh  mushrooms.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them 
cook  until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  add  a  pint  of  Allemande 
or  Espagnole  sauce,  letting  it  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Then 
skim  it  and  add  some  finely  chopped  parsley. 

DRY   HERBS. 

No.  746. — These  are  Herbs  that  have  been  cut  and  dried.  Some 
are  used  whole,  while  with  others  only  the  leaves  or  flowers  are 
used.  They  are  used  to  aromatize  certain  culinary  dishes,  and  also 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OP  TASTE.  171 

for  medicinal  purposes.  When  pulverized  they  are  used  as  spices. 
The  kinds  mostly  used,  which  should  always  be  kept  on  hand,  are 
as  follows:  Basil  Sweet,  Bene,  Borage,  Burnet,  Caraway  Seed, 
Catnip,  Cicely  Sweet,  Dill  Seed,  Sweet  Fennel,  Sweet  Marjoram, 
Summer  Savory,  Sage,  Thyme,  etc. 


ARTICLE;  CI. 


French  HOLLYHOCK,    OR   ROSE   MALLOW.  German 

Roses  Tremiere.  JRosenpappel. 

No.  747. — Remove  the  flower  from  the  stem  before  they  are 
developed,  then  dry  them  thoroughly  and  put  them  in  boxes  in  a 
dry  place,  free  from  dirt.  Use  them  for  for  diet  drinks  (tisanes)  as 
in  Article  LXXXII. 


ARTICLE  CII. 


HOOSUNG,  OR  OOSUNG. 

Oosung.  Adsung. 

No.  748. — This  is  a  lettuce-like  plant  from  China,  which  is  not 
cultivated  much  in  this  country,  but  is  well  known  on  the  Pacific 
Coast.  The  succulent  stem  is  the  part  used.  This  is  divested  of 
the  outer  rind,  then  boiled  in  water  lightly  salted  and  dressed  with 
Butter  or  Hollandaise  sauce.  It  may  also  be  used  in  soups  and 
sauces  the  same  as  okra.  The  cultivation  is  the  same  as  that  of 
lettuce. 


ARTICLE  CII  I. 


HOPS. 

Houplon,  Hop/en. 

No.  749. — Hops  are  considered  a  native  product  of  this  country, 

and  are  found  in  all  parts  of   the  United  States.     The  roots  are 

perennial,  but   the   stems   are   annual.     The   bearing  and    fertile 


172  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

flowers  are  produced  on  separate  plants,  the  former  being  very 
numerous,  and  panipulated.  The  fertile  flowers  are  generally 
cemented  together,  or  form  a  collection  of  small  scales  which  are 
more  or  less  covered  with  a  fine  yellow  powder  called  Lupalin. 
The  plant  is  principally  cultivated  for  its  flowers,  which  are  largely 
used  by  manufacturers  of  malt  liquors.  The  young  shoots  are  cut 
in  the  spring,  and  used  for  culinary  purposes,  when  they  are  five 
or  six  inches  high.  They  are  eaten  as  a  salad,  or  are  prepared  the 
same  as  asparagus,  which  they  somewhat  resemble  in  taste.  They 
are  recommended  by  physicians  for  persons  having  nervous  debility. 

BOILED   HOPS   WITH   SAUCE. 

No.  750. — Cook  the  stems  the  same  as  asparagus,  and  serve  them 
with  Cream  or  Hollaudaise  sauce.  They  are  good  to  use  on  "fast" 
clays,  and  when  cold  they  are  mixed  with  other  vegetables  for  salad. 

STEWED   HOPS,    WITH   SAUCE. 

No.  751. — Take  some  young  stems  and  cut  them  in  pieces  about 
one  inch  long,  all  of  equal  size.  Then  peel  them  and  as  you  pre- 
pare them  put  them  in  cold  acidulated  water.  Put  a  saucepan,  con- 
taining some  light  salted  water,  on  the  fire.  Add  a  little  vinegar 
and  when  it  boils  add  the  Hops.  When  they  are  cooked  drain  them 
and  then  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  piece  of  butter  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  pinch 
of  sugar.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  and  when  warmed  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  tossing 
them  well  over  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Garnish  it  with  small 
pieces  of  toast. 

FRIED   HOPS. 

No.  752. — When  the  Hops  are  prepared  as  in  No.  751,  drain  them 
and  then  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Then  parboil  them  for  five  min- 
utes, after  which  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  dry  them  on  a 
napkin.  Then  put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl,  add  the  juice  of.  a 
lemon,  and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Set  them  aside  for 
awhile,  and  when  ready  for  use  drain  them,  flour  them  lightly  and 
put  them  in  a  frying  batter.  Take  them  out  of  the  batter  one  at  a 
time,  put  them  in  the  frying  pan  in  hot  lard  and  fry  them.  When 
cooked  drain  them,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  them  on 
a  napkin. 

NOTE.  —They  should  be  fried  in  a  frying  pan  (not  too  many  at  a  time) ,  the  same  as  oyster  plants. 
They  may  be  fried  by  simply  dipping  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  then  rolling  them  in  flour. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  173 


ARTICLE  CIV. 


HOARHOUND. 

Marrube.  Andorn. 

No.  753. — Hoarhound  is  a  perennial  herb  with  a  strong  aromatic 
odor  and  a  bitter,  pungent  taste.  It  is  a  tonic  and  enters  largely 
into  the  composition  of  cough  syrups  and  lozenges,  being  princi- 
pally used  by  confectioners  and  for  medicinal  purposes. 

CULTURE. 

No.  754. — It  will  thrive  in  any  soil,  but  will  be  stronger  if  grown 
in  light,  poor  soil. 


ARTICLE;  CV. 


HORSE-RADISH. 

Raifort.  Meeretlig. 

No.  755. — Horse-radish  is  a  plant  having  a  root  of  a  pungent 
taste,  which  when  grated  is  much  used  as  a  condiment.  There  are 
two  varieties,  the  wild  and  the  cultivated.  The  latter  kind  is  the 
best,  attaining  a  large  brown  colored  root,  the  flesh  of  which  is 
white.  It  has  a  burning  spicy  taste,  and  is  used  both  raw  and 
cooked.  It  is  grated  and  served  as  a  relish,  or  in  sauces,  and  is 
also  very  agreeable  to  eat  with  boiled  beef. 

CULTURE. 

No.  756. — The  best  method  of  growing  Horse-radish  is  from  the 
little  roots,  four  or  five  inches  in  length,  and  not  from  the  crowns. 
The  small  roots  will  produce  good  radish  fit  for  use  in  one  season's 
growth.  Plant  a  set  with  the  small  end  down,  where  the  slanting  cut 
is,  and  so  that  the  top  will  be  two  inches  under  the  soil.  It  can  remain 
in  the  ground  until  very  late  in  the  autumn,  and  can  be  bedded,  or  a 
portion  can  remain  in  the  ground  until  spring.  A  dozen  roots  will 
furnish  all  that  will  be  needed  for  family  use  for  a  life  time,  as  it 
constantly  increases,  and  the  only  danger  is  that  it  will  spread  too 
fast  and  become  troublesome.  It  is  best,  therefore,  to  plant  it  in 
some  corner  of  the  garden  where  it  can  grow  without  injuring  other 
plants. 


174  HAEDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKEEY. 

HOESE-EADISH  FOE  A  EELISH. 

No.  757. — Scrape  and  grate  the  roots,  put  them  into  an  earthen 
bowl  and  moisten  them  with  a  little  wine  vinegar.  It  is  best  to 
prepare  it  fresh  every  day.  It  creates  an  appetite,  and  is  excellent 
with  boiled  beef.  If  it  is  to  be  kept  for  use,  put  up  in  tightly- 
corked  bottles. 

HOESE-EADISH   SAUCE. 

No.  758. — Scrape  and  grate  one  root.  Have  in  a  saucepan  one 
pint  of  Cream  sauce,  and  when  it  boils  add  the  Horse-radish,  cover 
the  pan  and  let  it  simmer  on  the  side  of  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  saucepan,  and  add  a  piece 
of  butter  and  a  piece  of  meat  glaze. 

HOESE-EADJSH   SAUCE   WITH   APPLES. 

No.  759. — Scrape  and  grate  one  root  and  chop  it  finely.  Put  one 
pint  of  Apple  sauce  in  a  saucepan.  Then  add  the  Horse-radish 
and  reduce  the  sauce  to  one-quarter  of  its  quantity  on  the  fire. 
Then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  an  earthen  bowl.  Add  the 
juice  of  one  orange  to  it,  and  serve  it  cold. 

HOESE-RADISH   SAUCE,    WITH   CREAM. 

No.  760. — Scrape  and  grate  one  root,  chop  it  finely  and  put  it 
into  an  earthen  bowl,  with  the  same  quantity  of  bread  crumbs.  Add 
three  spoonfuls  of  cream  and  one  of  sour  cream,  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  sugar,  a  little  vinegar  and  some  salt.  Mix  them  all  well 
together. 

NOTE.— Make  it  one  hour  before  using  it  an3  serve  it  with  hot  or  cold  roasted  meat. 
HOESE-EADISH   BUTTER. 

No.  761. — Scrape  and  grate  one  root,  put  it  into  a  mortar  with 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  pound  it  into  a  paste.  Then  rub  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  for  use. 

HOESE-EADISH  VINEGAR. 

No.  762. — Grate  half  a  pound  of  Horse-radish  and  put  it  into  an 
earthen  jar,  with  two  ounces  of  sugar.  Pour  two  quarts  of  wine  or 
cider  vinegar  over  it,  and  cover  the  jar  tightly.  In  ten  days  strain 
it  and  filter  it,  then  put  it  in  bottles  and  cork  them  well. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  175 


E    CVI. 


HYSSOP. 

e.  Isop. 

No.  763. — Hyssop  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant,  having  an  aromatic 
flavor  and  a  warm,  pungent  taste.  It  is  a  stimulant  and  expecto- 
rant, and  is  used  in  asthma  and  chronic  catarrh.  The  flowering 
summits  and  leaves,  when  dried,  are  the  parts  used  for  making  tea, 
etc. 

CULTURE. 

No.  764. — Sow  them  in  a  dry,  sandy  soil,  and  thin  them  out  to 
eight  inches  apart. 


evil. 


INDIAN  STAR  ANISE  SEED. 

Anis  Etoile  ou  Badiane.  Ste.rnanis. 

No.  765. — The  tree  from  which  this  seed  is  procured  grows  in 
the  Phillipme  Islands  and  in  China.  The  natives  call  it  Pansi- 
Pansi.  The  seeds  give  an  agreeable  taste  to  alimentary  compounds 
and  are  much  used  in  the  West  India  chocolates.  The  oil  has  the 
same  properties  as  that  of  anise  seed,  but  is  more  subtile  and  pene- 
trating. The  Chinese  eat  the  seeds  as  a  relish  after  their  repasts, 
and  the  natives  of  India  make  a  liquor  from  them  called  Anise- 
Arak,  which  is  largely  exported  to  Holland,  where  it  is  also  highly 
esteemed. 


CVI  1 1. 


JAPAN  PEA. 

Pois  Japynais.  Japan  Erbse. 

No.  766. — The  Japan  Pea  is  a  native  of  Japan  and  the  East 
Indies.  The  plant  is  strong  and  erect,  with  numerous  spreading 
branches.  The  seed  pods  are  small  and  downy,  and  grow  abun- 
dantly in  clusters  over  the  entire  plant.  The  seeds  are  small  and 
round,  and  when  ripe  are  of  a  creamy  yellowish  color.  The  seeds 


176  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

are  the  only  part  of  the  plant  eaten,  and  when  young  are  tender  and 
delicate.  The  ripe  seeds  are  soaked  in  water,  the  same  as  our  com- 
mon dry  white  beans  are.  They  then  become  quite  soft  and  tender, 
and  have  a  pleasant  nutty  and  oily  flavor.  There  is  a  variety  with 
green  seeds,  which  is  considered  superior  to  the  yellow  seeded. 
They  thrive  best  in  the  Southern  States  in  this  country.  Prepare 
and  cook  them  the  same  as  our  common  peas. 

CULTURE. 

No.  767. — The  plant  is  raised  from  seed  and  requires  the  entire 
season  for  its  development.  Sow  the  seeds  as  soon  as  the  ground 
is  warm,  in  drills  twenty  inches  apart,  and  drop  the  seeds  twelve 
inches  apart  in  the  drills,  covering  them  with  three-fourths  of  an 
inch  of  soil. 


ARTICLK  Cix. 


French  JASMINE.  Herman 

Jasmin.  Jasmin. 

No.  768. — The  flowers  of  the  Jasmine  are  use  by  pastry  cooks 
and  confectioners  for  flavoring  purposes.  They  are  dried  and  put 
into  bottles  with  spirits  of  wine. 


ARTICLE  ex. 


JUNIPER. 

Oenievre.  Wachholderbeere. 

No.  769. — The  Juniper  berry  is  the  fruit  of  the  Juniper  tree.  It 
is  used  for  seasoning  sour  kraut  and  in  cooking  ham.  It  is  also 
used  by  distillers  for  certain  liquors. 


A.RTICLB   CXI. 


KALE,  OR  BORECOLE. 

ChoU'Vert.  Bl'itter-Kohl. 

No.  770. — Kale  or  Borecole  are  general  terms  applied  to  those 
classes  of  cabbages  which  do  not  form  heads.     Some  of  the  vari- 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  177 

eties  are  the  most  tender  and  delicate,  of  any  of  the  cabbage 
species.  They  are  hardy,  and  improve  when  exposed  to  a  light 
frost. 

CULTUBE. 

No.  771. — They  may  be  sown  as  late  as  December  in  the  North- 
ern States.  They  will  grow  out  during  the  winter  in  the  South, 
without  protection,  and  are  treated  like  the  winter  cabbages.  If 
they  are  cut  when  slightly  frozen,  thaw  them  out  in  cold  water 
before  boiling  them. 

TALL  GREEN  CURLED  SCOTCH. 

No.  772. — This  is  a  hardy  variety,  which  is  improved  by  a  mod- 
erate frost.  It  is  about  two  feet  high,  with  an  abundance  of  dark 
green  curled  leaves.  It  stands  the  winter  in  the  Middle  States 

without  any  protection. 

i 

GERMAN  DWARF,    PURPLE. 

No.  773. — This  is  a  dwarf  compact  plant,  composed  of  a  mass  of 
large,  finely  frilled  leaves,  of  a  deep  purple  color.  It  is  tender  and 
of  excellent  quality. 

GERMAN  DWARF,    GREEN. 

No.  774. — This  is  a  smooth  leaved  sort  that  is  very  popular  in  the 
South,  where  if  sown  in  the  fall  it  needs  no  protection,  growing 
vigorously  all  the  winter.  It  is  not  equal  to  the  other  varieties  for 
use  in  the  North. 

DWARF   ERFURT. 

No.  775. — This  is  a  fine  curled  variety  of  a  yellowish  green  color, 
that  grows  very  close  to  the  ground. 

COTTAGER'S. 

No.  776. — A  valuable  variety  of  excellent  flavor.  It  grows  about 
one  foot  high,  and  the  leaves  are  of  a  rich  green  color,  curled  and 
feathered  to  the  ground. 

» 

KALE,    WITH    CREAM. 

No.  777. — Wash  and  trim  three  heads  of   Kale.     Boil  them  in 
water,  lightly  salted,  until  tender,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water, 
12 


178  HAEDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

drain  and  press  them  dry.  Then  chop  them  finely  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt,  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  add  a  little  cream,  reduce  it  to  its  proper  consistency, 
and  serve  it. 

KALE  FOR  GREENS,  WITH  SALT  PORK  OR  BACON. 

No.  778. — Kale  is  much  used  for  greens  with  salt  pork,  bacon  or 
"any  other  salt  meats.  Cook  the  greens  with  the  meats  or  separate- 
ly, chop  them  coarsely  and  serve  them  with  the  meats. 

NOTE. — The  Kale  can  also  be  used,  when  stewed,  in  any  way  that  cabbage  is  used. 


CXI  I. 


French  LAVENDER.  German 

Lavande.  LavendeL 

No.  779. — This  is  a  hardy  perennial,  aromatic  plant,  common  to 
the  south  of  Europe.  The  flower  yields  an  oil  used  in  medicine 
and  perfumery.  The  Spike-Lavender  yields  a  coarser  oil  that  is  used 
in  the  arts  and  for  the  distillation  of  Lavender  Water,  or  is  dried  and 
used  to  perfume  linen.  The  flowers  should  be  picked  before  they 
are  fully  expanded,  and  dried  quickly.  They  are  also  distilled,  and 
so  is  the  oil  from  the  flower,  bearing  its  name. 


CXI  1 1. 


LEEK. 

Poireau.  Lauch. 

No.  780. — The  Leek  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant  of  the  Onion  family. 
It  is,  however,  without  a  proper  bulb,  having,  in  the  place  of  this 
a  cylindrical  body  of  succulent  leaves,  which  are  eatable.  The 
small  bulb  is  oblong  and  tunicated,  the  lower  blanched  portion 
being  the  part  eaten.  By  some  people  it  is  preferred  to  the  onion, 
when  young.  It  is  used  principally  for  flavoring  and  as  an  ingre- 
dient in  soups. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  179 

CULTURE. 

No.  781. — Dig  the  trendies  eight  inches  deep  and  make  the  soil, 
at  the  bottom,  rich  and  fine.  Sow  the  seeds  early  in  spring  and 
cover  them  lightly  with  earth.  Thin  them  to  six  inches  apart,  and 
when  the  plants  are  twelve  inches  high  gather  the  leaves  together 
and  fill  the  trench  so  as  to  blanch  the  lower  part  of  the  plants. 
Store  them  in  the  cellar  or  out  of  doors  (as  you  would  celery), 
before  severe  weather  commences. 

LONDON   FLAG. 

No.  782. — This  variety  is  more  generally  cultivated  in  this  country 
than  in  any  other.  It  is  hardy  and  of  good  quality. 

LITTLE   MONTAGNE. 

No.  783. — This  is  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  Leek  species.  The 
stems  are  short  and  slender. 

PROLIFEROUS  LEEK. 

No.  784. — This  is  a  vigorous  variety  of  the  common  Leek.  The 
bulb  will  remain  sound  several  weeks  after  they  have  ripened. 

YELLOW   POITON. 

No.  785. — The  blanched  portion  of  the  stem  is  of  a  yellowish 
white  color,  and  is  more  tender  than  that  of  any  other  variety,  and 
of  a  remarkably  large  size. 

LARGE   ROUEN. 

No.  786. — The  stem  is  rather  short,  with  very  thick  dark  green 
leaves.  It  is  considered  one  of  the  good  kinds. 

SOUP  PUREE  OF  LEEKS,    VIENNOISE. 

No.  787. — Slice  fine  the  white  part  of  one  dozen  good  sized 
Leeks,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry 
them  lightly  (not  long  enough  to  get  browned),  and  then  add  one 
or  two  quarts  of  broth.  When  they  are  well  cooked  add  three 
quarts  of  thickened  chicken  or  veal  broth.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished.  Let  it  cook  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Then  take 
out  the  faggot,  skim  off  the  grease,  rub  the  soup  through  a  fine 


180  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

sieve,  and  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  Before 
serving  add  one  pint  of  cream,  in  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  eight 
raw  eggs  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Stir  it  until  the  butter  is  melted. 
Then  add  some  fine  chopped  chives,  and  serve  it  with  fried  bread 
crumbs  separately. 


ARTICLK    CXIV. 


French  LENTIL,   OR   LENS.  German 

Lenlitles.  Lint-e. 

No.  788. — This  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  with  an  erect  and  angu- 
lar branching  stem,  one  foot  and  a  half  high.  The  pods  are  some- 
what quadrangular,  and  enclose  one  or  two  lens-like  seeds,  the  size 
and  color  varying  in  different  varieties.  The  Lentil  is  a  vegetable 
of  the  greatest  antiquity,  and  was  much  esteemed  in  olden  times  by 
those  making  long  journeys.  The  seeds  are  used  and  prepared  the 
same  as  beans,  and  for  soups  and  purees,  they  are  prepared  the. 
same  as  dried  peas. 

CULTURE. 

No.  789. — Sow  the  seeds  in  May,  in  drills  the  same  as  green  peas. 
They  succeed  best  in  dry,  warm,  light  soil. 

COMMON   LENTIL. 

No.  790. — This  variety  is  considered  superior  to  the  large  Lentil .. 
The  seeds  are  much  smaller  and  are  greatly  esteemed. 

GREEN   LENTIL, 

No.  791. — This  somewhat  resembles  the  small  Lentil,  the  princi- 
pal distinction  being  in  the  color,  which  is  green,  spotted  and 
marbled  with  black. 

LARGE  LENTIL. 

No.  792. — The  seed  is  white  or  cream  colored.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  productive  of  all  varieties,  though  inferior  in  quality. 

SMALL  LENTIL. 

No.  793. — This  is  rather  a  late  variety,  of  a  close  branching  habit,, 
being  very  prolific,  and  a  variety  much  used  by  the  French. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  181 

LENTILS,  MAITRE  D' HOTEL. 

No.  794. — Wash  one  quart  of  Lentils  in  lukewarm  water  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  water,  a  little  salt,  two 
onions,  two  carrots  and  a  faggot  of  celery.  Pat  them  on  the  fire  to 
boil,  skim  them  and  let  them  boil  slowly  until  tender.  Then 
drain  off  the  moisture,  take  out  the  carrots,  onions  and  celery, 
-and  add  six  ounces  of  butter  and  some  fine  chopped  parsley,  and 
season  it  to  taste.  Toss  them  in  the  pan  well  together,  adding  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  the  broth,  if  needed. 

FKICASSEE   OF   LENTILS. 

No.  795. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Lentils  as  in  No.  794,  and  when 
tender  drnin  them.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  chopped  onion,  with 
four  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  spoonful  of  flour.  Let  it  cook  slowly 
until  nicely  browned.  Then  add  some  of  the  broth  of  the  Lentils, 
to  make  a  light  sauce.  Let  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  add 
the  Lentils.  Season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them  simmer 
for  fifteen  minutes;  then  serve. 

PUREE  OF  LENTILS  FOR  GARNITURE,  CONDE. 

No.  796. — When  the  Lentils  are  cooked,  as  in  No.  794,  take  out 
the  carrots,  onions,  and  celery.  Then  drain  them  and  rub  them 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  Puree  in  a  flat  saucepan  and  add  four 
spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce.  Reduce  it  to  its  consistency,  and 
before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

SOUP,    PUREE   OF  LENTILS. 

No.  797. — Cook  two  quarts  of  Lentils,  as  in  No.  794,  adding  half 
broth  to  the  water.  When  thoroughly  cooked  take  out  the  carrots, 
onions,  and  celery,  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  If  too  thick  add 
the  quantity  of  broth  necessary.  Put  it  back  in  the  saucepan, 
stirring  it  until  it  boils.  Then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil 
slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Before  serving  skim  it  well,  add  a 
piece  of  butter  and  serve  with  small  fried  bread  crumbs.  A  ham 
bone,  or  piece  of  salt  pork,  may  be  boiled  with  the  soup. 

SOUP,  PUREE  OF  LENTILS,  CONTE. 

No.  798. — Wash  two  quarts  of  Lentils  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  gallon  of  water.  When  it  boils  skim  it.  Then  add  two 
onions  (in  which  stick  six  cloves),  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished 


182  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

with  celery,  and  two  carrots.  Season  with  salt,  put  on  the  cover 
and  let  it  boil  slowly  until  tender.  Then  take  out  the  faggot  of 
parsley  and  the  carrots  and  onions,  and  rub  the  soup  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  and  add  game  broth  to  make 
it  of  the  desired  consistency.  Set  it  on  the  fire,  stirring  it  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  it  boils.  Then  let  it  boil  slowly  for  half  an 
hour.  Skim  it  well.  Prepare  separate!}7  four  heads  of  braized 
celery,  and  when  cooked  cut  them  into  scallops,  adding  them 
to  the  soup,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

PUREE   OF   LENTILS,    HUNTERS'   STYLE. 

No.  799. — Prepare  the  soup  as  in  No.  798,  adding  a  piece  of  bacon 
while  cooking  the  soup.  When  it  is  done  take  out  the  bacon  and 
the  vegetables,  and  rub  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Make 
separately  a  game  broth  of  quails  or  partridges.  Dilute  the  puree 
with  this  broth,  letting  it  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Skim  it 
well  and  add  the  breasts  of  the  birds,  cut  into  small  square  pieces, 
and  serve  with  small  fried  bread  crumbs. 


CXV. 


French  LETTUCE.  German 

Lailue.  Lattichsalat. 

No.  800. — Lettuce  is  a  hardy  annual  plant  of  Asiatic  origin,  and 
is  always  grown  from  seed.  It  may  be  had  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year,  but  its  quality  is  not  always  the  same.  There  is  no  vegetable 
more  generally  used  than  Lettuce,  yet  few  people  know  how  appe- 
tizing it  is  when  brought  to  the  table  fresh  and  in  an  unwilted  con- 
dition. It  ranks  as  one  of  the  best  green  salads,  and  is  much  used 
with  chicken  and  other  salads.  Lettuce  is  also  used  as  a  vegetable 
prepared  the  same  as  spinach,  and  when  stuffed,  and  is  used  as  a 
garniture  for  soups  and  meats.  There  are  a  number  of  varieties  of 
Lettuce. 

CULTURE. 

No.  801. — The  quality  of  Lettuce  depends  largely  upon  rapid  and 
vigorous  growth,  and  to  secure  that  we  need  very  rich,  mellow  soil, 
frequent  surface  cultivation,  and  an  abundant  supply  of  water. 
For  the  earliest  crop  sow  the  seed  under  glass,  in  March,  and  thin 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  183 

out  the  plants  to  prevent  crowding.  If  you  intend  to  mature  the 
plants  under  glass,  keep  the  beds  quite  close,  and  water  it  frequently 
and  abundantly  with  liquid  manure,  and  keep  it  well  shaded  during 
sunny  days.  If  the  plants  are  to  be  set  in  the  open  ground,  give 
them  all  the  air  possible,  without  freezing  them,  and  harden  them 
off  by  full  exposure  and  the  withdrawal  of  water  before  transplanting. 
The  plants  should  be  set  out  as  soon  as  a  warm  spot  can  be  made 
very  rich  and  mellow.  When  they  are  set  out,  sow  the  seeds  in 
drills,  fourteen  inches  apart,  and  thin  them  out,  as  wanted  for  the 
table,  until  they  stand  eighteen  inches  apart.  Hoe  them  frequently, 
and  water  them  when  dry.  The  Cos  varieties  should  be  tied  up 
about  ten  days  before  using,  in  order  to  blanch  the  inner  leaves. 

EARLY   TENNIS  BALL. 

No.  802. — This  is  the  best  variety  of  head  Lettuce  for  growing 
under  glass,  being  very  hardy  and  having  thick,  crisp,  and  tender 
leaves.  It  forms  a  compact  head  under  glass,  but  when  in  the  open 
air,  unless  planted  very  early,  it  is  liable  to  be  loose  and  open. 

BLACK   SEEDED    SIMPSON. 

No.  803. — The  leaves  of  this  variety  are  very  large  and  form  a 
compact  mass,  rather  than  a  distinct  head.  They  are  of  superior 
quality,  being  thin  and  tender,  and  of  a  light  green  color.  Their 
color  prevents  any  wilting  of  the  plant  being  noticed,  and  as  a 
consequence,  it  is  a  popular  market  variety. 

SIMPSON  EARLY   CURLED. 

No.  804. — This  is  one  of  the  best  early  varieties  for  family  use. 
All  of  the  leaves  tend  to  produce  a  large  loose  head.  The  leaves 
are  dark  green,  beautifully  crimped,  and  are  tender  and  crisp. 

EARLY  BOSTON  CURLED. 

No.  805. — This  variety  has  numerous  large  dark  green  leaves, 
that  grow  close  together,  the  edges  being  deeply  frilled,  so  that  the 
whole  plant  forms  around  mass,  closely  resembling  a  bunch  of  moss. 

EARLY   PRIZE    HEAD    (FERRY'S). 

No.  806. — This  is  the  best  Lettuce  known.  It  forms  a  mammoth 
hardy  plant,  of  which  even  the  outer  leaves  are  crisp  and  tender, 


184  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

remaining  so  throughout  the  season.     It  is  slow  to  run  up  to  seed. 
Its  flavor  is  delicious,  and  it  is  much  used  in  soups,  etc. 

HANSON. 

No.  807. — This  is  a  very  fine  heading  variety,  of  large  size,  and 
stands  the  sun  better  than  any  other  sort.  The  heads  are  large, 
solid,  sweet,  tender,  and  crisp  throughout,  and  are  devoid  of  any 
bitter  taste. 

DEACON. 

No.  808. — This  plant  is  small,  having  very  thick  and  smooth  dark 
green  leaves,  which  are  crisp  and  tender. 

EARLY  CURLED   SILESIA. 

No.  809. — An  early  variety  of  very  strong  growth,  which  does  not 
form  a  head,  but  is  the  best  kind  for  cutting  and  bunching  when 
young.  The  leaves  are  large  and  wrinkled  and  of  a  light  yellow 
color.  It  resembles  the  Cos  varieties  in  quality. 

FRANKFORT   HEAD. 

No.  810. — A  dark  green  curled  variety  with  close  round  heads, 
which  when  opened  are  finely  blanched  and  very  crisp.  It  remains 
in  head  a  long  time. 

LARGE   DRUMHEAD. 

No.  811. — The  head  is  remarkably  large  and  compact,  though 
somewhat  flattened.  It  is  crisp  and  tender  and  one  of  the  finest 
summer  varieties.  Its  color  is  pale  green  without  and  white  in  the 
center. 

PHILADELPHIA   BUTTER. 

No.  812. — This  is  a  very  early  variety,  desirable  for  forcing  and 
for  early  planting,  out  of  doors,  but  it  does  not  stand  the  sun  well. 
It  is  medium  in  size,  having  a  compact  head,  the  leaves  being 
smooth  and  thick  and  of  a  bluish-green  color. 

BROWN  DUTCH. 

No.  813. — This  is  an  old  and  hardy  variety,  and  always  forms  a 
large,  solid  head,  which  is  somewhat  coarse  looking.  The  leaves 
are  large  and  thick,  of  a  deep  green  color  outside,  but  beautifully 
blanched  within.  They  are  exceedingly  sweet,  tender,  and  of  good 
flavor. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  185 

GREEN  FRINGED. 

No.  814. — An  ornamental  variety  of  exceeding  beaut}*,  but 
inferior  in  quality.  The  inside  of  the  leaves  is  white,  the  edges  a 
light  green,  delicately  fringed  and  crimped.  Its  handsome 
appearance  makes  it  well  worthy  of  cultivation  for  table  decoration 
alone. 

WHITE    PARIS   COS. 

No.  815. — This  is  a  large  hardy  variety,  which  takes  long  in 
running  to  seed,  and  is  considered  by  many  to  be  far  better  than 
the  other  varieties.  The  heads  are  long  and  upright,  with  oblong 
leaves,  that  are  tender,  brittle,  and  highly  flavored. 

SALAMANDER. 

No.  816. — This  is  the  best  variety  for  summer  use,  forming  large, 
compact  heads.  It  is  light  green  in  color  outside,  and  white  inside. 
Its  great  advantage  is  that  it  will  stand  drought  and  heat,  and  will 
remain  longer  in  heads  than  the  other  varieties. 

LETTUCE   BRAIZED,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  817. — Select  one  dozen  solid  heads  of  Lettuce  and  trim  off 
the  outer  leaves.  Wash  the  Lettuce  in  plenty  of  cold  water  and 
then  drain  them.  Parboil  them  for  five  minutes,  then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water.  After  this  press  each  head  in  the  hand  well, 
arrange  them  on  a  napkin  and  trim  them.  Next  line  a  deep  flat 
saucepan  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  on  which  you  will  put  the 
heads  of  Lettuce  side  by  side.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg, and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves,  a 
sprig  of  thyme  and  two  onions  having  three  cloves  stuck  in  each. 
Cover  each  head  of  Lettuce  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  moisten 
them  with  stock  broth.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  this  boil  once 
and  then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly  until  done. 
Then  drain  them  on  a  sieve  and  sponge  off  the  grease  with  a  nap- 
kin. Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  three  spoonfuls  of  half 
glaze,  and  set  them  in  the  oven.  When  glazed  serve  them  with  a 
reduced  Espagnole  sauce. 

LETTUCE   BRAIZED,   GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  818. — Prepare  the  Lettuce  as  in  No.  817,  and  when  cooked 
drain  them  on  a  napkin  and  sponge  off  the  grease.  Then  dish  them 
up  and  pour  over  them  some  Allemande  sauce,  reduced  with  cream. 


186  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

STUFFED  LETTUCE. 

No.  819. — Prepare  one  dozen  heads  of  Lettuce  as  in  No.  817,  and 
when  parboiled  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  then  press  them  in 
the  hands  and  dry  them.  Put  them  on  a  towel  on  the  table,  spread 
out  the  leaves  of  each  head  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg.  Add  in  the  middle  of  each  head  some  forced  meat  of  veal 
(Godiveau)  flavored  with  cooked  fine  herbs.  Put  the  Lettuce  in 
shape  again,  trim  them  and  arrange  them  in  a  deep  flat  saucepan, 
lined  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Moisten  them  with  veal  gravy, 
then  let  them  boil,  after  which  cover  the  saucepan  and  set  it  in  the 
oven.  Sprinkle  them  with  the  gravy  occasionally,  so  they  will  glaze 
nicely.  When  cooked  dish  them  up,  strain  off  the  gravy,  take  off 
the  grease,  and  serve  the  gravy  with  them. 

LETTUCE  STUFFED  AND  FRIED. 

No.  820. — Prepare  the  Lettuce  the  same  as  in  No.  819,  and  when 
cooked  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  and  sponge  off  the  grease  with  a 
napkin.  Then  bread  them  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  then 
bread  them  again  in  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  and 
serve  them  on  a  napkin,  with  a  garniture  of  fried  parsley. 

LETTUCE   WITH   CREAM. 

No.  821. — Trim  off  the  outer  leaves  of  one  dozen  heads  of  Lettuce 
and  wash  the  heads  in  cold  water  several  times.  Then  put  them 
in  a  saucepan,  with  boiling  water  lightly  salted,  and  let  them  cook 
for  ten  minutes  on  a  brisk  fire.  Then  immerse  them  in  cold  water, 
drain  them  in  a  colander  and  press  them  dry  in  the  hands.  Then 
chop  them  fine.  Put  six  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  when 
melted  add  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  let  it  cook  to  a  light  brown. 
Then  add  the  Lettuce,  stirring  it  in  well,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Add  in  slowly  a  pint  of  cream  and  let  it  cook 
for  ten  minutes.  Before  serving,  garnish  it  with  hard  boiled  eggs, 
cut  in  quarters,  and  with  toasted  bread,  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

LETTUCE,    WITH   GRAVY. 

No.  822. — Proceed  the  same  as  in  No.  821,  but  in  place  of  cream 
add  some  veal  gravy  or  a  good  broth.  Garnish  with  poached  eggs 
or  toast. 

LETTUCE   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  823. — When  Lettuce  is  to  be  used  for  garnishing  joints  or 
large  entries,  use  the  braized  or  stuffed  Lettuce  as  in  Nos.  817, 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  187 

818,  819  and  820.  When  it  is  used  for  garnishing  small  entrees 
and  broiled  meats,  use  Lettuce  with  cream  or  gravy,  as  in  Nos.  821 
and  822.  When  it  is  used  as  a  salad  garniture  select  the  inner 
leaves  and  steep  them  in  cold  water  until  ready  for  use.  Keep  the 
hearts  to  place  on  the  top  of  the  salad,  or  cut  them  in  fine  shreds 
and  garnish  around  the  dish,  alternating  with  eggs. 

LETTUCE   SALADS. 

No.  824. — Trim  oft*  the  outer  leaves  of  the  Lettuce,  wash  the 
heads  in  cold  water,  trim  the  leaves,  and  then  drain  them  on  a 
salad  strainer.  Before  using,  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  being 
careful  not  to  press  the  leaves.  Put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  sweet  oil  and  vinegar. 

NOTE. — Dress  the  salad  only  when  ready  for  use.  Germans  generally  add  some  sliced  young 
onions  and  a  mustard  dressing.  This  is  made  by  mashing  the  yolk  of  a  hard  boiled  egg  in  a  salad 
bowl,  diluting  it  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  adding  mustard.  Then  mix  it  well  together  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  this  mixture  over  the  Lettuce,  and  mix  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  and 
fork  in  a  careful  manner.  Americans,  especially  in  New  England,  dress  the  salad  with  sugar,  vinegar, 
and  cream.  In  the  South  they  use  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper,  or  with  a  Mayonnaise  dressing,  and 
garnished  with  hard  boiled  eggs.  The  French  add  some  fine  chopped  chervil  and  tarragon,  and 
occasionally  a  clove  of  garlic,  chopped  fine,  or  some  garlic  rubbed  on  a  crust  of  bread  (Chapon). 
The  Spaniards  and  Mexicans  add  some  fine  sliced  green  peppers,  with  sliced  green  onions.  The 
English  use  a  dressing  made  with  the  yolks  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  diluted  with  oil,  vinegar,  and  the 
juice  of  onions  or  shallots,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  For  a  family  dinner  dish  up  the 
salad  plain,  with  hard  boiled  eggs  separately,  or  as  a  garniture.  It  requires  an  expert  to  dress  a  salad 
well.  When  ready  for  the  salad  the  hostess  should  dress  it,  or  if  one  of  the  company  Is  noted  as  a 
good  salad  dresser,  she  should  request  him  to  dress  it. 

LETTUCE   WITH   CONSOMME    (CAEBUKE). 

GRATINATED   CRUSTS   WITH    LETTUCE. 

No.  825. — Trim  one  dozen  heads  of  Lettuce,  wash  them  well  in 
cold  water  and  then  parboil  them  for  ten  minutes.  Then  immerse 
them  in  cold  Avater  and  press  them  dry  in  the  hands.  Arrange  the 
leaves  nicely  and  tie  them  so  they  will  keep  their  shape.  Now 
prepare  a  deep,  Hat  saucepan  lined  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork, 
some  trimmings  of  veal,  four  sliced  carrots  and  one  sliced  onion. 
Then  put  the  Lettuce  in  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with 
one  bay  leaf  and  three  cloves.  Cover  it  all  with  thin  slices  of  fat 
pork  and  moisten  with  enough  broth  to  cover  it.  Set  it  on  the  fire 
to  boil.  Then  cover  the  saucepan  and  set  it  on  one  side  to  cook 
slowly  until  tender.  Then  take  them  out  carefully,  place  them  on 
a  clean  board,  take  off  the  strings  and  cut  them  in  two  or  three 
parts,  lengthwise.  Put  in  a  deep  baking  dish  some  thin  slices  of 
toasted  bread,  then  a  layer  of  Lettuce,  and  continue  this  way  until 
the  dish  is  full.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  strain  off  the 


188  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

.gravy  that  they  were  cooked  iu,  and  pour  it  over  the  Lettuce  and 
toast  to  cover  it.  Then  set  the  dish  in  an  oven  to  cook  slowly 
until  nicely  browned.  Before  serving,  take  off  the  grease  and 
serve  with  a  soup  tureen  of  consomme. 


LETTUCE  WATER  FOR  INVALIDS. 

No.  826. — Wash  and  clean  three  heads  of  Lettuce,  and  soak 
them  in  one  quart  of  boiling  water  for  one  hour.  Then  strain  it 
through  a  napkin.  Season  with  a  little  sugar,  and  take  a  cupful 
one  hour  before  each  meal  for  several  days.  It  is  recommended  for 
those  whose  stomachs  are  deranged  and  also  for  those  afflicted  with 
nervousness. 

PRESERVED   LETTUCE  WHOLE. 

No  827. — Select  three  dozen  fresh  picked  heads  of  Lettuce  and 
trim  off  the  outer  leaves.  Wash  them  well  in  cold  water,  and  then 
parboil  them  for  ten  minutes  in  water  lightly  salted.  Then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Then  arrange  them 
in  a  flat  saucepan  and  moisten  them  with  enough  broth  to  cover 
them.  Let  them  cook  until  tender,  and  then  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
•Cut  out  the  stalks,  and  then  cut  the  heads  of  Lettuce  in  half, 
lengthwise,  laying  the  tops  over  in  the  middle  close  together,  so 
they  will  not  curl  outward.  Then  put  them  in  square  quart  tin 
cans,  the  same  way  that  you  would  arrange  asparagus.  Cover  them 
with  water  lightly  salted,  solder  on  the  covers  and  boil  the  tin  cans 
in  a  hot  water  bath  for  two  hours. 

PRESERVED  LETTUCE,  IN  CANS. 

No.  828. — Prepare  them  as  endives  are  prepared.  See  Article 
LXXXVII,  No.  828. 

• 

LETTUCE   WHEN  USED   IN   VEGETABLE   SOUPS. 

No.  829. — Use  the  green  tender  leaves  and  wash  them  well  to 
keep  them  green.  Then  cut  them  in  shreds  or  with  a  cutter  and 
put  them  in  boiling  water  to  cook  for  a  few  minutes.  After  this 
immerse  them  in  cold  water,  then  drain  them  and  put  them  in 
soup  when  ready  to  serve. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  189 


ARTICLK  cxvi 


French  LICORICE.  Herman. 

Reylisse .  Silshols-B/'/renzuker. 

No.  830. — Licorice  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant,  the  root  of  which 
abounds  with  a  sweet  juice,  and  is  much  used  in  demulcent  compo- 
sitions. It  has  fleshy,  creeping  roots,  which,  when  undisturbed, 
attain  great  length  and  penetrate  deep  into  the  earth.  The  roots- 
are  the  only  part  of  the  plant  used,  and  are  used  by  porter  brewers- 
and  confectioners  and  for  medicinal  purposes.  The  sweet,  mucilagi- 
nous juice,  which  is  extracted  from  the  roots  by  boiling,  is  much 
esteemed  as  an  emollient  for  coughs  and  colds. 

CULTURE. 

• 

No.  831. — It  is  propagated  by  planting  slips  of  the  roots,  four  or 
six  inches  long,  that  have  two  or  three  buds.  Plant  them  in  March/ 
as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  eighteen  inches  apart  in  rows 
that  are  three  feet  apart,  covering  them  with  three  inches  of  earth. 
Every  year  late  in  autumn,  when  the  sap  has  gone  down  and  the 
leaves  turned  yellow,  cut  the  old  stem  down  with  a  pruning  knife 
to  a  level  with  the  ground.  At  this  time  the  creeping  stems  are 
forked  up  and  cut  off  close  to  the  main  stems.  They  are  then 
preserved  in  sand  for  future  planting.  The  roots  will  be  ready  for 
taking  up  three  years  after  planting.  This  should  be  done  towards 
winter,  when  the  sap  goes  down  in  the  roots.  A  trench  three  feet 
deep  should  then  be  dug  around  the  roots,  so  they  can  be  extracted 
without  injury  to  them.  They  are  then  kept  in  sand  until  used. 


CXVII. 


LIMA  BEANS. 

Feve  Boh>>e. 

No.  832. — The  Lima  Bean  is  one  of  the  latest  and  most  tender 
of  garden  beans.  The  stem  is  about  ten  feet  high,  and  the  leaves 
are  smooth,  shiny  and  narrow,  yet  comparatively  long.  The  pods 
are  about  four  inches  long  and  an  inch  and  a  quarter  broad,  being 
flattened  in  shape,  and  containing  from  three  to  five  beans.  They 
are  green  and  wrinkled  when  young,  and  of  a  yellowish  color  when 


190  HAEDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKEEY. 

ripe.  The  pods  are  tough  and  parchment-like  in  all  stages  of  their 
growth,  and  are  never  eaten.  The  Beans  when  either  green  or  ripe, 
are  universally  esteemed  for  their  peculiar  flavor  and  excellence. 
If  gathered  when  suitable  for  use  in  their  green  state,  and  dried  in 
the  pods,  they  can  be  preserved  during  the  winter.  When  required 
for  use,  they  should  be  shelled,  then  soaked  for  a  short  time  in 
clear  water,  and  cooked  the  same  as  green  beans.  When  they  are 
treated  in  this  manner,  they  will  be  found  to  be  nearly  as  tender  and 
well  flavored  as  when  freshly  plucked  from  the  plants.  The  Lima 
Bean  seldom  perfects  its  crop  in  the  Northern  States,  as  only  a 
small  portion  of  the  pods  attain  a  good  size,  being  destroyed  by 
early  frost. 

CULTUBE. 

No.  833. — Commence  planting  when  the  weather  is  settled  and 
the  soil  is  warm  and  in  good  working  condition.  Procure  a  num- 
ber of  poles  six  feet  in  length  and  set  them  out  three  feet  apart 
each  way.  Plant  five  or  six  Beans  in  each  hill,  covering  them  with 
one  inch  of  soil  and  being  careful  to  set  each  Bean  with  its  germ 
downward.  After  they  have  grown  for  awhile  and  before  they 
begin  to  run,  pull  up  the  weakest  and  leave  but  three  of  the  most 
vigorous  plants  in  each  hill.  As  they  increase  in  height  they  should 
be  tied  to  the  poles  with  a  soft,  fibrous  material.  When  they  have 
ascended  to  the  tops  of  the  poles  the  ends  should  be  pinched  off'. 
The  ends  of  all  branches  that  rise  above  that  height  should  also  be 
treated  in  the  same  way.  This  prevents  them  from  running  into 
vines  and  tends  to  make  them  blossom  earlier  and  bear  sooner  and 
more  abundantly.  When  cultivated  near  the  Sieva,  the  varieties 
readily  hybridize  and  the  Lima  Bean  rapidly  degenerates.  Plants 
grown  in  the  Southern  States  are  healthy  and  vigorous  and  produce 
large  Beans  of  excellent  quality. 

GEEEN   LIMA   BEANS. 

No.  834. — This  is  a  sub-variety  of  the  common  Lima  Bean, 
differing  from  it  principally,  in  the  pea-green  color  of  the  seed.  It 
will  remain  longer  on  the  plant  without  becoming  hard,  and  is 
considered  more  tender  than  other  kinds. 

MOTTLED    LIMA   BEANS. 

No.  835. — This  is  also  a  sub-variety  of  the  common  Lima  Bean. 
The  seeds  are  of  a  dull  white,  or  greenish-white  color,  mottled  or 
clouded  with  purple. 

NOTE.— For  the  prepartion  of  Lima  Beans.    See  Article  on  Beans. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  191 


ARTICLE  CXVIII. 


French  LIME   TREE,  OR   LINDEN    TREE.  German 

Tilltul.  Die  Lind. 

No.  836. — The  Lime,  or  Linden  Tree,  bears  a  fruit  allied  to  the 
lemon,  but  smaller  and  more  intensely  sour.  It  is  a  handsome  tree 
and  is  found  in  all  warm  climates.  It  has  panicles  of  light  yellow 
flowers  and  large  cordate  leaves.  The  flowering  buds  should  be  picked 
before  the  rising  of  the  sun.  They  should  then  be  peeled  and  dried 
and  kept  in  a  clean,  cool  place,  free  from  dust.  They  are  used  for 
tisanes. 


ARTICLE  CXIX. 


LOVAGE. 

Angelique  afeuille-d'ache.  Lieb  Ktockel. 

No.  837. — Lovage  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant  having  a  hollow, 
branching  stem  six  or  seven  feet  high.  It  has  smooth,  deep  green, 
glossy  leaves,  that  somewhat  resemble  those  of  celery.  The  roots 
are  large  and  fleshy,  having  a  dark-brown  color  without  and  being 
yellowish  within.  Both  the  roots  and  seeds  are  used.  The  roots 
are  sliced  and  dried  and  are  used  by  confectioners  in  that  state. 
They  are  also  used  in  medicine  as  an  aromatic  stimulant. 

CULTURE. 

No.  838. — Lovage  requires  a  deep,  rich,  moist  soil,  and  should 
be  sown  in  August,  or  immediately  after  ripening.  When  the 
young  plants  have  grown  three  inches,  transplant  them  three  feet 
apart  in  each  direction.  When  they  are  well  established  they  will 
require  but  little  care  and  will  continue  for  years. 


ARTICLE  CXX. 


LUPINE. 

Lupin .  Wolfsbohne . 

•No.  839. — Lupine  is  a  leguminous  plant,  having  a  strong,  erect, 
branching  habit.     It  is  not  cultivated  for  food,  but  the  white  and 


192  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY, 

.yellow  Lupine  are  grown  for  their  farinaceous  seeds.  The  pods 
are  straight  and  hairy,  about  three  inches  long,  and  contain  five  or 
six  large,  white,  flattened  seeds,  having  a  slightly  bitter  taste. 
They  are  said  to  possess  important  medicinal  qualities.  The  yellow 
Lupine,  which  is  a  native  of  Sicily,  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  resem- 
bling the  white  species.  They  are  both  grown  in  some  parts  of  this 
country,  and  when  in  their  green  state  they  are  cut  up  and  ploughed 
under  the  soil  as  a  fertilizer.  Plant  them  in  poor,  dry  soil. 


ARTICLK 


French  MACE.  Herman 

Mads.  Muskafenbluthe. 

No.  840. — Mace  is  the  second  coat,  or  aril,  which  covers  the  nut- 
meg ;  a  thin  and  niembranaceous  substance,  of  an  oleaginous 
nature  and  yellowish  color,  being  in  flakes,  divided  into  many 
ramifications.  It  has  an  agreeable  aromatic  taste,  not  being  as  bitter 
as  the  nutmeg.  It  is  much  used  for  culinary  purposes,  in  pastry 
and  in  distilling  liquors,  and  can  be  obtained  in  flakes  or  ground. 

NOTE.— See  Nutmeg  Article. 


ARTICLK  CXXII. 


MADRAS  RADISH. 

Radis  (Madras).  Retdij  (Madras). 

No.  841. — The  Madras  Radish  is  generally  cultivated  for  its 
pods,  which  are  sometimes  twelve  inches  in  length.  They  are 
solid,  crisp,  and  tender,  and  when  young  they  are  used  for  pickling, 
and  for  salads,  being  much  superior  to  the  common  radish.  The 
roots  are  sometimes  eaten  whole  when  they  are  young  and  tender, 
but  they  soon  become  fibrous,  strongly  flavored  and  unfit  for  use. 
When  the  Madras  Radish  is  cultivated  for  its  pods,  sow  it  in  drills 
that  are  two  feet  apart,  and  thin  the  plants  to  nine  inches  apart  in 
the  drills. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  193 


ARTICLE  CXXIII. 


French  MALLOW— CURLED   LEAVED.  German 

Mauve.  Malve. 

No.  842. — Mallow  is  an  annual  plant  that  was  introduced  from 
Europe,  and  which  grows  spontaneously  in  gardens  when  once  cul- 
tivated. The  stems  are  frequently  more  than  six  feet  in  height. 
The  leaves,  which  are  of  a  rich  green  color,  are  nearly  five  inches 
in  diameter  and  are  smooth,  lobed  and  beautifully  frilled  or  curled 
on  the  borders.  No  part  of  the  plant  is  considered  suitable  for 
food,  but  the  beautiful  leaves  are  used  for  garnishing  desserts. 
Sow  the  seeds  about  the  first  of  May,  covering  them  with  one  inch 
of  soil.  The  plant  requires  much  space. 


ARTICLK  CXXIV. 


MARANTA,  OR  ARROW-ROOT  PLANT. 

Arrow-root.  Arrow-mehl. 

No.  843. — This  is  a  genus  of  plants  found  in  tropical  America, 
and  some  species  also  in  India.  They  have  tuberous  roots  contain- 
ing a  large  amount  of  starch,  and  from  one  species  arrow-root  is 
obtained.  The  Indians  are  said  to  employ  the  roots  of  this  species 
in  extracting  the  poison  of  arrows,  whence  the  name.  The  fecula 
obtained  is  called  Arrow-Boot.  The  root  of  this  plant  is  perennial, 
tuberous,  fleshy,  horizontal  and  scaly,  and  is  a  foot  or  more  in 
length,  having  numerous  long,  white  fibres.  It  sends  forth  several 
tuberous  jointed,  curved,  white  stoles,  the  points  of  which  some- 
times rise  above  the  ground  and  become  new  plants*  Several 
stems  proceed  annually  from  the  same  root,  being  branched  and 
slender,  and  about  four  inches  high.  The  Arrow-Root  plant  is  a 
native  of  the  West  Indies,  where  it  is  largely  cultivated;  and  its 
cultivation  is  also  carried  on  in  the  East  Indies,  Africa  and  the 
Southern  States.  That  from  the  Bermuda  Islands  is  most  esteemed, 
Jamaica  furnishing  the  next  best  quality.  The  plant  is  propagated 
early,  by  cutting  off  the  roots.  Arrow-Boot  is  adulterated  with 
flour  from  other  roots,  such  as  the  Curcuma  and  the  Tacca  Oceanica 
from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Potato  flour  is  also  used.  Arrow- 
Boot  when  ground,  is  a  light,  white  powder,  devoid  of  taste  or 
13 


194    .  HABDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

odor.  It  lias  a  firm  feeling  when  pressed  between  the  fingers,  and 
produces  a  faint  crackling  sound  when  rubbed.  It  is  a  pure  starch, 
corresponding  in  its  chemical  properties  with  that  of  corn  starch 
or  potato  starch.  When  purchased  it  should  be  free  from  any 
unpleasant  flavor,  as  it  is  liable  to  get  musty.  Keep  it  in  a  dry 
place. 

PREPARTfON   OF   ITS   FLOUR. 

No.  844. — The  flour  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner:  The 
roots  are  dug  up  when  a  year  old,  then  washed  and  pounded  into  a 
pulp,  which  is  thrown  into  water  to  separate  the  amylacteous  from 
the  fibrous  portion.  The  fibres  are  removed  with  the  hands,  which 
leaves  the  starch  suspended  in  the  water,  to  which  it  gives  a  milky 
color.  The  milky  fluid  is  strained  through  a  coarse  towel,  aixUs 
allowed  to  stand  that  the  flour  may  settle.  The  flour  is  then  washed 
with  fresh  water  and  is  dried  afterwards  in  the  sun. 

ITS  USE. 

No.  845. — Arrow-Root  is  nutritious  and  demulcent,  and  affords  a 
light  and  easily  digested  article  of  diet  for  the  sick  and  convalescent. 
It  is  peculiarly  suited,  from  its  demulcent  properties,  to  those 
afflicted  with  complaints  of  the  bowels  and  diseases  of  the  urinary 
passages.  It  is  much  used  as  food,  for  infants  after  weaning  or 
when  the  mother's  milk  is  insufficient.  It  is  prepared  by  dissolv- 
ing it  in  hot  water  with  which  it  forms  a  pearly  gelatinous  solution, 
and  if  sufficiently  thick  it  forms  a  jelly-like  mass  when  cool.  A 
tablespoonful  will  contribute  sufficient  consistence  to  a  pint  of  water. 
It  should  first  be  made  into  a  paste  with  a  little  cold  water  and  the 
boiling  water  should  then  be  added,  with  brisk  agitation.  The 
preparation  may  be  rendered  more  palatable  by  adding  lemon  juice 
and  sugar,  or,  in  extreme  sickness,  by  adding  wine  and  spices.  It 
is  usually  prepared  with  milk  when  taken  by  children. 


ARTICLE 


French  MARJORAM.  German 

Murjolaine.  Marjoram. 

No.  846. — Marjoram  is  a  perennial  aromatic  plant,  somewhat 
hardy,  but  not  hardy  enough  to  endure  the  winter  in  the  North. 
When  the  plants  are  in  bloom  they  are  cut  and  dried  and  are  used 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  195 

for  flavoring  salted  meat  and  venison  soup.     They  are  also  ground 
and  used  in  flavoring  stuffings,  etc. 


No.  847. — Sow  the  seeds  as  early  as  possible  and  thin  out  the 
plants  to  ten  inches  apart.  It  is  also  propagated  by  dividing  the 
roots  either  in  spring  or  autumn. 


SWEET   MARJORAM. 

No.  848. — Sweet  Marjoram  is  always  treated  as  an  annual  in  the 
Northern  States.  The  plant  grows  low,  having  a  branching  stem 
and  rounded  leaves.  This  variety  is  said  to  have  come  from  Portu- 
gal, and  is  mostly  used  for  culinary  purposes.  It  is  highly  aro- 
matic, and  is  used  in  its  green  and  dried  state. 

COMMON    MARJORAM. 

No.  849. — This  variety  is  perennial  and  is  more  hardy  than  the 
Sweet  Marjoram.  It  is  used  in  the  same  manner  as  the  sweet 
variety. 

POT  MARJORAM. 

No.  850. — This  variety  is  a  native  of  Sicily.  Its  leaves  are  oval 
and  comparatively  smooth.  It  produces  small  purple  flowers  in 
spikes.  It  is  used  in  the  same  way  as  the  other  varieties  are,  but 
is  inferior  to  the  Sweet  Marjoram. 

WINTER   SWEET   MARJORAM. 

No.  851. — This  is  a  perennial  variety  somewhat  hardy  and  resem- 
bling the  Sweet  Marjoram,  being  next  in  quality  to  it.  The  plants 
should  be  cut  when  just  coming  into  bloom  and  dried  well  in  the 
shade. 


CXXVI. 


French  MARSH     MALLOW.  German 

Guimauve.  Sammetpappel. 

No.  852. — This  is  a  plant  that  is  common  in  marshes  near  the  sea 
shore.     The  flowers  are  used  for  diet  drinks  (tisanes),  and  should 


196  HAEDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKEEY. 

be  picked  with  care  before  the  rising  of  the  sun.     They  should  then 
be  dried  thoroughly,  and  kept  in  a  dry,  dark  place. 


For  Marsh  Mallow  Syrup  see  Capillary  Syrup,  Article  XXXI,  No.  354. 


ARTICLE  CXXVII. 


French  MELILOT.  iierman 

Me'lilot.  MeMilot. 

No.  853. — This  is  a  plant  having  yellow  flowers,  of  a  peculiar 
odor  and  flavor,  resembling  the  Tonqua  bean.  It  is  put  in  a  faggot 
when  roasting  or  stewing  rabbits  or  hares,  to  impart  an  agreeable 
flavor.  It  is  also  used  in  dairies  to  color  cheese. 


ARTICLE:  cxxvill. 


MINT. 

Menthe.  Gcuten  Milnze. 

No.  854. — Mint  is  a  hardy  perennial  aromatic  plant,  producing, 
by  distillation,  a  highly  odoriferous  and  pungent  essential  oil.  It- 
is  generally  cultivated  in  gardens,  but  grows  naturally  near  brooks 
and  in  rich,  moist  soil.  It  is  used  in  making  sauces  for  flavoring, 
for  medicinal  purposes,  for  flavoring  drinks,  and  by  confectioners. 
The  common  or  plain  leaved  variety  is  the  best  for  general  use. 
The  Spear -Mint  is  inferior  for  culinary  purposes,  but  is  prettier 
for  garnishing,  on  account  of  the  curled  foliage. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  855. — It  is  propagated  best  by  a  division  of  the  roots,  which 
readily  establish  themselves  wherever  planted.  In  cultivating 
from  seed,  sow  under  glass  and  transplant  them  when  the  leaves 
are  formed. 

MINT   SAUCE,    AMEEICAN   STYLE. 

No.  856. — Pick  one  handful  of  green  Mint  leaves,  wash  them 
clean,  dry  them  on  a  napkin  and  cut  them  fine.  Put  half  a  pint  of 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  197 

good  wine  vinegar  and  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  bowl,  and  sweeten 
it  to  taste  with  light  brown  sugar.  Then  add  the  Mint  and  a  little 
salt  and  pepper  and  mix  the  whole  well  together.  Let  it  stand  for 
fifteen  minutes  before  using.  This  sauce  is  much  used  in  this 
country  and  is  greatly  esteemed  with  roasted  spring  lamb. 

MINT   SAUCE,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  857. — Prepare  it  the  same  as  in  the  American  style,  using 
warm  lamb  or  beef  gravy  instead  of  water. 


CVXXIX. 


French  MOREL.  German 

Morille.  Morchel. 

No.  858. — In  its  natural  state  the  Morel  is  found  growing  in 
orchards,  in  damp  woods,  and  in  moist  pastures.  There  are 
several  varieties,  all  of  which  are  edible.  It  is  about  four  inches 
in  height  and  is  distinguished  by  its  white  cylindrical  hol- 
low, and  solid  smooth  stem.  Its  cap  is  spherical  and  hollow, 
and  of  a  dark  brown  or  gravy  color.  It  adheres  to  the  stem  by  its 
base,  and  is  deeply  pitted  over  the  entire  surface.  It  is  in  perfec- 
tion early  in  the  season,  but  should  not  be  gathered  after  a  rain  or 
while  it  is  wet  with  dew.  If  gathered  when  dry  it  may  be  preserved 
many  months.  The  Morel  is  much  used  in  its  dry  or  fresh  state,  to 
heighten  the  flavor  of  stews  and  gravies.  This  mushroom  is  to  be 
obtained  from  Italian  warehouses  and  is  the  best  variety  in  use  in 
its  dried  state. 

MOEELS,  POULETTE. 

No.  859. — Wash  the  Morels  in  tepid  water,  trim  them  and  then 
cut  the  large  ones  in  quarters.  Parboil  them  for  five  minutes,  then 
immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  afterwards  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  one  small  onion 
and  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished,  and  season  them  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Toss  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  then  add  four 
spoonfuls  of  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce,  and  let  them  cook  slowly 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  take  out  the  onion  and  the  faggot,  add  a 
piece  of  butter  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  toss  the  whole  over 
the  fire  well.  Then  serve. 


198  HABDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

MORELS,  SPANISH  STYLE. 

No.  860. — Prepare  them  the  same  as  in  No.  859,  using  Espagnole 
•sauce  instead  of  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce,  and  finish  it  by  adding 
a  small  piece  of  Anchovie  butter. 

MORELS   ON   SKIVERS. 

No.  861. — When  the  Morels  are  cleaned  and  parboiled,  as  in  No. 
859,  cut  them  in  quarters,  put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  season 
them  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Pour  some  clarified  butter 
over  them,  and  mix  them  well.  Then  put  them  on  wooden  skivers, 
dip  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  broil  them  on  a  slow  fire. 
Cut  ten  slices  of  bacon  in  small  pieces,  fry  them  nicely,  and  dish 
them  on  a  platter  with  the  broiled  Morels  on  top,  having  put  the 
Morels  on  silver  skivers  before  serving  them. 

MORELS  FRIED. 

No.  862. — When  the  Morels  are  cleaned  and  parboiled,  as  in  No. 
859,  cut  them  in  halves,  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  moisten  them  with 
broth  and  let  them  cook  until  reduced  to  a  light  glaze.  Then  season 
them  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  take  them  out  of  the  saucepan, 
flour  them,  and  then  fry  them  in  hot  lard.  Add  to  the  light  glaze, 
two  spoonfuls  of  mutton  gravy,  a  piece  of  butter,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  some  fine  chopped  parsley.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the 
Morels  and  then  serve. 

MORELS,    WITH   GRATINATED   CRUST. 

No.  863. — When  the  Morels  are  washed  and  parboiled  as  in  No. 
859,  cut  them  in  scollops.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  one  onion  and  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished.  Toss 
them  over  a  brisk  fire  and  sprinkle  them  with  a  little  flour  while 
tossing  them.  Then  moisten  them  with  wrhite  broth,  let  them  cook 
slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  take  out  the  onion  and  faggot  of 
parsley  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Dilute  the  yolks 
of  four  raw  eggs  in  a  glass  of  cream  and  pour  it  over  the  Morels 
off  of  the  fire,  tossing  them  well  together.  Then  serve  them  with 
gratinated  crusts,  the  same  as  mushrooms. 

MORELS   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  864. — Prepare  them  as  in  Nos.  859  and  860  with  Allemande, 
Espagnole  or  Cream  sauce. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  199 

MORELS   STUFFED.      . 

No.  865. — Wash  clean  and  trim  them  as  in  No.  859,  parboil  them 
for  fifteen  minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them 
on  a  napkin.  Chop  the  trimmings  and  stems  fine  and  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  two  fine  chopped  shallots. 
Put  the  cover  on  the  pan  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until  the  moist- 
ure is  reduced.  Then  put  them  on  a  plate  to  get  cold  and  add  some 
cooked  forced  meat  of  chicken  or  veal  and  some  fine  chopped  pars- 
ley. Stuff  the  Morels  with  this  preparation,  sprinkle  fresh  bread 
crumbs  over  them,  arrange  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  lined  with  thin 
slices  of  fat  pork,  and  put  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  each.  Moisten 
them  with  broth  and  set  them  in  the  oven  to  cook  slowly  until  nicely 
browned.  Serve  them  with  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce,  to  which 
add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley. 


ARTICLE  CXXX. 


Froucl.  MULLEN,    OR    MULLEIN.  German 

Molene  ou  Bouillon  blane  Wollkrout. 

No.  866. — Mullen  is  a  field  plant.  Its  leaves  and  flowers  have 
been  employed  as  remedial  agents.  They  have  a  slight  odor  and 
a  mucilaginous,  bitterish,  feeble  taste.  Mullen  leaves  are  demul- 
cent and  emollient,  and  are  said  to  possess  anodyne  properties, 
which  render  them  useful  in  pectoral  complaints.  A  strained  infu- 
sion of  the  flowers  is  used  in  mild  catarrhs  and  in  diarrhoea.  It 
will  be  found  advantageous  to  moisten  the  leaves  previous  to  boil- 
ing them.  Pick  the  flowers  before  they  expand,  dry  them  in  the 
shade,  mixing  and  turning  them  occasionally  to  have  them  perfectly 
dry.  Keep  them  in  boxes  in  a  cool  dry  place,  and  use  them  in  diet 
drinks  (tisanes),  as  in  Article  LXXXII. 


CXXX  I. 


MUSHROOMS. 

Champignon  ou  Moufseron.  Champignon,  or  Ertshicamm. 

No.  867. — The  Mushroom  is  one  of  a  large  class  of  cryptogamic 
plants  of  the  natural  order  of  fungi.  The  name  is  sometimes  pop- 
ularly restricted  to  such  species  as  are  used  for  food.  It  is  a  cellu- 


200  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

lar  plant,  having  generally  a  more  or  less  rounded  thallus  supported 
upon  a  stalk,  and  having  seeds  upon  the  under  surface  or  gills. 
They  are  numerous,  being  found  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  are 
usually  of  very  rapid  growth,  often  springing  up  and  coming  to 
maturity  in  a  single  day.  Many  species  are  used  for  food  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  world,  while  other  species  are  poisonous.  Many 
varieties  abound  in  the  pastures  and  woods  in  all  the  States,  and 
may  be  gathered  wild  and  enjoyed  by  those  who  have  not  the 
means  of  raising  them  artificially.  They  are  gathered  in  all  the 
different  stages  of  their  growth,  and  are  used  boiled,  stewed, 
stuffed  or  broiled,  and  when  dried  are  used  for  flavoring.  The 
current  belief  is  that,  while  many  fungi  are  virulently  poisonous, 
others,  including  the  common  Mushroom,  are  free  from  poison, 
and  may  be  eaten  in  any  quantity.  The  fear  of  poison  deters  many 
from  making  any  use  of  this  savory  and  nourishing  but  treacherous 
vegetable,  and  if  they  are  afraid  to  eat  them  it  is  a  matter  of  con- 
siderable importance  to  have  the  real  standing  of  fungi  as  food 
stuffs  made  clear.  According  to  recent  investigations  the  question 
seems  to  be,  not  how  to  distinguish  the  poisonous  from  harmless 
species,  but  how  to  treat  Mushrooms  of  every  sort  in  such  a  way  as 
to  remove  or  neutralize  the  poison  which  they  contain,  with  the  pre- 
caution of  using  this  class  of  food  stuffs  at  all  times  with  modera- 
tion. It  has  been  ascertained  that  repeated  washing  with  cold 
water  removes  most  of  the  poison  of  Mushrooms,  and  that  boiling 
dissolves  out  the  rest.  The  water  in  which  Mushrooms  are  boiled, 
however,  is  always  poisonous,  more  so  even  than  raw  Mushrooms. 
Dried  Mushrooms  have  been  found  to  be  dangerous  for  twenty 
days,  and  also  the  water  in  which  such  Mushrooms  had  been  boiled. 
They  are  not  really  safe  until  after  four  months'  drying.  There- 
fore, treat  all  Mushrooms  as  poisonous;  carefully  throw  out  all  the 
water  in  which  they  have  been  washed;  cook  them  well,  and  never 
eat  them  in  large  quantities.  The  fact  that  all  Mushrooms  are  more 
or  less  poisonous  should  be  no  bar  to  their  use  as  food,  proper  care 
being  taken  in  the  cooking  and  eating.  The  detection  of  poisonous 
Mushrooms  is  a  matter  of  deep  consideration.  The  surest  method 
of  detecting  them,  and  a  precaution  that  should  always  be  taken,  is 
to  put  a  silver  coin  or  a  solid  silver  spoon  in  the  water  in  which 
Mushrooms  are  cooked.  If  the  silver  assumes  a  bluish  or  black 
color  it  may  be  assured  that  one  or  perhaps  all  of  the  Mushrooms 
are  poisonous,  and  they  should  be  thrown  away. 

CULTURE. 

No.  868. — There  can  be  no  doubt  but  what  all  of  the  edible  kinds 
would  finally  submit  to  and  probably  improve  by  cultivation,  though 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  201 

as  }7et  but  a  single  species  has  been  generally  introduced  into  the 
garden.  The  common  Mushroom  is  the  only  kind  cultivated,  and 
can  be  grown  in  cellars,  sheds,  on  shelves  in  the  open  air,  or  in 
caves  free  from  iron  or  coal.  Beds  of  the  required  width  and  length 
are  made  of  fermenting  horse  manure,  at  a  temperature  of  about 
seventy  degrees,  being  eighteen  inches  deep.  Plant  the  broken 
pieces  of  spawn  in  this  bed,  six  inches  apart,  covering  the  whole 
with  two  inches  of  light  soil,  and  protecting  it  from  cold  or  severe 
rains.  The  Mushrooms  will  appear  in  about  six  weeks.  Irrigate 
only  when  the  bed  is  quite  dry,  with  soft  or  lukewarm  water.  The 
best  of  all  situations,  when  available,  in  which  to  grow  Mushrooms, 
are  underground  caves,  such  as  supply  the  Paris  markets  with  such 
vast  quantities. 

THE   COMMON   MUSHROOM. 

No.  869. — When  the  common  Mushroom  first  appears  it  has  a 
white  color,  is  of  a  roundish  button-like  form,  and  apparently  rests 
on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  When  fully  developed  the  stem  is 
solid  and  two  inches  in  height,  and  its  cap  measures  from  one  to 
four  inches  in  diameter,  changing  to  a  brownish  color  when  old  and 
becoming  tough  and  fleshy.  It  is  readily  distinguished  when  of 
medium  size,  by  its  fine  pink  or  flesh-colored  gills  and  pleasant 
odor.  When  old,  the  gills  become  of  a  chocolate  color  and  it  is 
then  liable  to  be  confounded  with  other  kinds  of  a  dubious  quality. 
However,  the  species  which  resemble  it  most  is  slimy  to  the  touch 
and  is  devoid  of  its  fine  odor,,  having  rather  a  disagreeable  smell. 
The  noxious  kinds  always  grow  in  woods  or  on  the  margin  of  woods, 
while  the  wholesome  Mushroom  springs  up  chiefly  in  open  pastures, 
and  should  be  gathered  only  in  such  places  when  young  and  tender. 
The  Mushroom  produces  no  real  seed,  but  instead  of  it  has  a  white 
fibrous  substance  in  broken  threads,  called  spawn,  which  is  pre- 
served in  horse  manure,  being  pressed  in  the  shape  of  bricks.  It 
will  preserve  its  vitality  for  years  when  prepared  in  this  manner. 

AGARICUS  COMATUS  MUSHROOM. 

No.  870. — This  is  an  excellent  variety  that  is  found  in  abundance 
in  stumps  of  trees  in  pastures,  appearing  in  spring  and  autumn.  It 
is  much  used  in  catsup,  but  should  only  be  used  when  young. 

SWEET  OR  DELICIOUS  MUSHROOM. 

• 

No.  871.— This  is  a  variety  of  medium  size,  having  a  yellowish 
color  ringed  with  orange  on  the  top.  It  somewhat  resembles  a  del- 
eterious species,  but  is  readily  distinguished  from  it,  as  when  it  is 


•202  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

<mt  when  fresh  the  juice  is  quite  red  and  afterwards  turns  green, 
while  the  juice  of  the  noxious  kind  is  white  and  unchangeable.  It 
is  found  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  growing  under  lir  or  pine  tives. 

THE   ST.    GEORGE   MUSHROOM. 

No.  872. — This  is  a  variety  that  attains  a  weight  of  four  or  five 
pounds  in  California,  but  is  not  as  delicate  as  the  common  Mush- 
room. Those  grown  in  Europe  are  superior  to  the  common  Mush- 
room in  flavor  and  are  more  digestible.  It  grows  in  rings  in  pas- 
tures or  in  thickets  under  trees,  and  reappears  for  successive  years 
on  the  same  spot. 

BLEWIT'S  BLUE  HATS. 

No.  873.  — This  is  a  favorite  species,  and  is  sold  largely  in  the 
markets.  It  has  a  soft,  moist,  smooth  pileus,  with  a  solid  bulbous 
stem,  tinted  with  light  blue.  The  gills  are  of  a  dingy  white  color, 
-and  rounded  towards  the  stem.  It  should  only  be  gathered  in  dry 
weather,  as  it  absorbs  moisture  readily,  and  thereby  is  injured  in 
flavor  and  rendered  more  liable  to  decay. 

AGARICUS   PRIMULAS. 

No.  874. — This  variety  is  found  only  in  spring,  and  grows  in  rings 
on  the  borders  of  woodlands,  at  which  time  an  abundance  of  its 
spawn  can  be  obtained.  It  may  be  preserved  by  transplanting  it 
into  bricks  of  loam  and  horse  manure,  in  which  it  will  keep  for 
several  months,  the  same  as  the  spawn  of  common  Mushrooms. 
This  variety  is  used  both  in  its  fresh  and  dried  state.  It  is  preserved 
by  bein£  cut  into  quarters,  and  then  dried  in  the  air  for  several 
days,  when  it  is  strung  up  and  kept  for  future  use. 

THE   FAIRY  KING. 

No.  875. — This  Mushroom  is  found  growing  in  rings,  and  has  a 
pileus  of  a  brownish  ochre  color,  which  changes  to  a  paler  cast  as 
it  grows,  until  it  gradually  fades  into  a  rich,  creamish  yellow  color. 
It  is  of  excellent  flavor,  and  is  valuable  for  domestic  use,  owing  to 
the  facility  with  which  it  is  dried,  and  its  extensive  dissemination. 
It  may  be  kept  for  years  without  losing  its  aroma  or  flavor. 

NOTE.  —The  Boletus,  Clavaria,  and  Morel  varieties  of  Mushrooms  will  be  found  under  their 
respective  headings. 

HOW  TO  CLEAN  AND  PREPARE  MUSHROOMS. 

No.  876. — Mushrooms  should  be  used  as  soon  as  they  are  gathered. 
Put  the  solid  ones  in  one  pan,  and  those  that  are  hollow  in  another, 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  203 

having  two  quarts  of  acidulated  water  in  each  pan.  Wash  them 
well,  then  trim  them  and  put  them  in  separate  pans  again,  that 
contain  acidulated  water.  Let  them  soak  for  a  while  until  ready 
lo  use  them.  The  small,  solid  button  Mushrooms  will  resemble  the 
cultivated  French  Mushrooms  when  cooked,  and  may  be  used  for 
sauces  and  small  garnitures.  Cut  off  the  stems  of  the  hollow  ones 
before  washing  them.  The  heads  are  used  for  stuffing,  and  are  also 
broiled.  The  tops  of  the  solid  ones  should  be  cut  in  crescent-like 
grooves,  to  give  them  a  fancy  appearance.  The  trimmings  are 
chopped  fine,  and  are  used  with  fine  herbs. 

COOKED  MUSHROOMS,  FOR  GENERAL  PURPOSES. 

No.  877. — When  the  Mushrooms  are  washed  and  cleaned  as  in 
No.  876,  select  a  saucepan  that  is  not  too  large  for  the  quantity  of 
Mushrooms  to  be  cooked.  Put  two  pounds  of  fresh  Mushrooms  in 
the  saucepan  and  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  glassful 
of  cold  water,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Cover  the  saucepan, 
put  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  the  Mushrooms  have  boiled  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  pour  them  into  an  earthen  jar.  When  they  are 
cold  cover  them  with  a  buttered  paper  cover  and  keep  them  in  a 
cool  place.  They  may  be  used  for  any  kind  of  sauces  or  garnitures. 
The  juice  is  added  to  sauces  to  flavor  them. 

NOTE. — When  cooking  large  quantities  of  Mushrooms,  put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  add 
them  when  the  liquid  boils.  A  wine-glassful  of  water  will  be  sufficient  for  five  pounds  of  Mush- 
rooms. 

MUSHROOMS,  WITH  ALLEMANDE  SAUCE. 

No.  878. — Reduce  some  Allemande  sauce  with  some  Mushroom 
gravy  and  then  add  the  Mushrooms.  If  they  are  small  leave  them 
whole;  if  large,  cut  off  the  stems  and  slice  them  as  desired. 

MUSHROOMS,    WITH   ESPAGNOLE   SAUCE. 

No.  879. — Reduce  some  Espagnole  sauce  with  some  Madeira  wine 
and  Mushroom  gravy,  and  then  add  the  Mushrooms  as  in  No.  878. 

MUSHROOMS   ON   TOAST    (  SAUTE). 

No.  880. — Put  a  small  piece  of  butter  in  an  omelet  pan,  and 
when  it  is  warm  add  a  handful  of  Mushrooms  and  toss  them  over 
the  fire  until  thoroughly  warmed.  Then  add  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  two  spoonfuls  of  Mushroom  juice,  a  little  lemon  juice  and 
some  fine  chopped  parsley.  Serve  it  all  hot  on  pieces  of  thin 
buttered  toast. 


204  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

PUREE  OF  MUSHROOMS. 

No.  881. — "Wash  and  clean  two  pounds  of  Mushrooms  as  in  No. 
876,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Set  the  saucepan  on  a  brisk  fire,  stirring  its 
contents  occasionally,  until  the  moisture  is  well  reduced.  Then  put 
them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them  fine,  and  return  them  to  the 
saucepan.  Then  add  five  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce, 
season  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  let  it  simmer  slowly 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  it  in 
a  flat  saucepan,  reducing  it  with  half  a  cup  of  cream.  Before 
serving,  add  a  piece  of  butter. 

NOTE.— Half  a  pound  of  cooked  forced  meat  of  chicken  may  be  added,  instead  of  the  Allemande 
or  Cream  sauce.  Keep  the  puree  in  a  cool  place,  and  when  ready  for  use,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and 
bring  it  almost  to.the  boiling  point,  stirring  it  all  continually. 

BROILED  MUSHROOMS    ON  TOAST,    MAITRE  D' HOTEL. 

No.  882. — Wash  and  clean  two  dozen  large  Mushrooms,  cut  off 
the  stems  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl 
with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  a  little  salt  and  the  juice 
of  one  lemon.  Half  an  hour  before  using  them  cover  them  with  a 
buttered  paper  cover  and  let  them  macerate.  Broil  them  on  a  fire 
that  is  not  too  brisk  and  serve  them  on  a  hot  plate  on  pieces  of  hot 
buttered  toast,  with  the  bottoms  of  the  Mushrooms  upwards.  Mix 
a  little  fine  chopped  parsley  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  with  a 
piece  of  butter  and  put  some  of  the  mixture  on  each  Mushroom. 

BROILED   MUSHROOMS,    BORDELAISE. 

No.  883. — Prepare  two  dozen  Mushrooms  as  in  No.  882,  and  put 
them  in  an  earthen  bowl  with  three  spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  a  little 
salt  and  a  few  grains  of  pepper.  Cover  them  with  a  buttered  paper 
cover  and  set  them  in  a  cool  place  for  one  hour  to  macerate  before 
using  them.  Broil  them  nicely  and  put  them  on  a  hot  plate.  Pre- 
pare the  following  mixture  separately  in  a  saucepan :  Mix  two  spoon- 
fuls of  sweet  oil,  a  small  piece  of  garlic  chopped  fine,  and  some 
chopped  parsley  and  chervil.  Warm  this  thoroughly  and  pour  it 
over  the  Mushrooms,  then  squeeze  the  juice  of  one  lemon  over 
them  and  serve  them  hot. 

MUSHROOMS,    PROVINCIAL. 

No.  884. — Prepare  two  dozen  large  Mushrooms  as  in  No.  882, 
slice  them  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
sweet  oil,  a  little  salt,  a  few  grains  of  pepper  and  two  mashed  cloves 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  205 

of  garlic.  Cover  them  with  a  buttered  paper  cover  and  set  them  in 
a  cool  place  to  macerate  for  an  hour  before  using.  When  ready  to 
use  them,  put  one  spoonful  of  sweet  oil  in  an  omelet  pan,  then  chop 
the  mashed  garlic  finely  and  add  it  to  the  warmed  sweet  oil.  Then 
put  the  Mushrooms  in  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly 
warmed.  Add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  serve  the  Mushrooms  on  toast. 

MUSHROOMS,    PIEMONTAISE. 

No.  885. — Wash  and  clean  half  a  pound  of  Mushrooms,  then  slice 
them  and  put  them  in  an  omelet  pan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  toss 
them  over  a  brisk  fire.  When  they  are  cooked  add  two  spoonfuls 
of  Allemande  sauce,  a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze,  a  little  fine  chopped 
parsley,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them 
over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted  and  then  serve  them  hot. 

USE   OF   TRIMMINGS  AND   PEELINGS. 

No.  886. — When  the  trimmings,  peelings  and  stems  of  the 
Mushrooms  are  carefully  washed,  dry  them  well  and  chop  them 
fine.  Then  put  a  piece  of  butter  and  some  fine  chopped  shallots  in 
a  saucepan.  Cover  the  pan  and  let  them  simmer  slowly  on  a  slow 
fire  until  cooked.  Then  add  the  chopped  Mushrooms  and  let  it  cook 
until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  After  this  put  them  in  a  bowl  and 
use  them  with  fine  herbs,  in  Italian  sauce  or  with  baked  fish. 

STUFFED   MUSHROOMS,    WITH   FINE   HERBS. 

No.  887. — Select  two  dozen  large  Mushrooms  and  cut  off  the  stems 
close  to  the  top,  then  wash  them  and  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Put 
two  fine  chopped  shallots  in  a  saucepan,  fry  them  lightly  and  then 
add  two  handfuls  of  fine  chopped  Mushrooms  and  cook  them  slowly. 
When  the  moisture  is  nearly  reduced,  add  three  spoonfuls  of  Alle- 
mande sauce  reduced,  and  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley.  In  a  little 
while  put  this  to  one  side  to  get  cool,  and  when  cold  stuff  the  selected 
Mushrooms  with  the  mixture.  Put  them  in  a  buttered  pan,  sprin- 
kle fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and  put  a  few  drops  of  sweet  oil 
on  top  of  each  one.  Then  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  and  serve 
them  with  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce. 

STUFFED   MUSHROOMS,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  888. — Select  two  dozen  large  Mushrooms,  and  cut  off  the 
stems  close  to  the  top,  then  wash  them  in  acidulated  water  and 


206  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Put  two  fine  chopped  shallots  and  a  piece 
of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  two  hand- 
fuls  of  fine  chopped  Mushrooms,  cover  the  pan  and  let  them  cook 
until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  add  one  handful  of  fresh 
bread  crumbs,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  add  a 
little  fine  chopped  pareley  and  two  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  or  Cream 
sauce.  Mix  it  all  well  together,  then  take  it  off  of  the  fire,  add  the 
yolks  of  three  raw  eggs,  and  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Then  stuff  the 
selected  Mushrooms  with  this  mixture,  sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs 
over  them,  arrange  them  in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  and  put  a  few 
drops  of  sweet  oil  on  each  Mushroom.  Then  bake  them  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  and  serve  them  with  a  brown  Italian  sauce. 


MUSHROOMS   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  889. — Use  the  solid,  round,  button-like  Mushrooms  for 
garnishing.  Leave  them  whole,  or  if  quite  large  use  only  the  head. 
Keep  them  white,  and  groove  the  heads  in  crescent  shapes,  as  it 
gives  them  a  finer  appearance.  Dress  them  in  bands,  alternating 
with  other  vegetable  garnitures.  Stuffed  Mushrooms  are  used  for 
large  garnitures,  the  same  as  stuffed  tomatoes  or  peppers. 

MUSHROOMS  WITH   GRATINATED   CRUSTS. 

No.  890. — Select  one  pound  of  small,  solid  Mushrooms,  cut  off 
the  stems,  and  then  cook  them.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  spoonful  of  water  and  a 
faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  clove  of  garlic.  Season  them 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Toss  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  well 
cooked  and  the  moisture  is  reduced,  take  out  the  faggot  and  add 
four  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce.  Have  some  crusts 
ready,  and  fill  them  with  this  mixture.  Put  two  cooked  Mushrooms, 
having  the  tops  grooved  in  crescent  shape,  on  top  of  each  crust  and 
moisten  the  tops  with  a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze,  and  serve  them 
hot.  The  crusts  mentioned  above,  are  made  as  follows :  Cut  some 
bread  in  pieces  four  inches  long,  two  inches  wide,  and  one  and  a 
half  inches  thick.  Trim  the  sides  in  a  nice  shape  and  hollow  out 
the  centre  of  each  piece,  leaving  the  edges  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Then  fry  them  in  clarified  butter,  after  which  drain  them 
and  put  them  in  an  oven  to  dry.  When  ready,  fill  the  centre  with 
the  Mushrooms.  French  rolls  will  answer  the  same  purpose  when 
prepared  as  follows:  Cut  them  in  half,  scoop  out  the  centre,  butter 
them  and  set  them  in  the  oven  to  dry. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  207 

MUSHROOMS  BAKED   IN   SHELLS. 

No.  891. — Prepare  the  Mushrooms  the  same  as  in  No.  890,  and 
when  the  sauce  is  well  reduced,  fill  some  buttered  silver  shells  with 
the  Mushrooms.  Then  sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  the  top 
and  put  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  each.  Bake  them  until  they  are 
nicely  browned  and  serve  the  shells  on  a  plate  with  a  napkin.  The 
Mushrooms  may  also  be  prepared  and  baked  with  a  reduced  brown 
or  white  Italian  sauce,  or  with  a  reduced  Allemande  sauce  with 
essence  of  Mushrooms. 

MUSHROOMS ,    POULETTE. 

No.  892. — Clean  and  wash  one  pound  of  Mushrooms.  Put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  the  juice  of 
one  lemon,  and  tAvo  spoonfuls  of  water.  Cover  the  saucepan, 
put  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  let  the  Mushrooms  cook  until  they 
commence  to  boil.  While  this  is  cooking  dilute  two  spoonfuls  of 
Hour  in  some  cold  water,  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and,  when  the 
Mushrooms  commence  to  boil,  add  it  to  the  gravy  so  as  to  thicken  it- 
Then  let  the  Mushrooms  cook  slowly  for  five  minutes,  when  you  will 
add  a  glassful  of  cream  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs  and 
a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  all  well  together  off  of  the  fire,  and 
serve  them  as  soon  as  they  are  ready  with  a  little  fine  chopped 
parsley  over  them. 

MUSHROOMS   WITH   CREAM   SAUCE,    AMERICAN    STYLE. 

No.  893. — When  the  Mushrooms  are  prepared  and  cooked  as  in 
No.  876,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  some  Cream  sauce  with  some  of  the 
Mushroom  gravy.  Let  them  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then, 
serve  the  Mushrooms  on  toast. 

ESSENCE    OF   FRESH  MUSHROOMS. 

Xo.  894. — Wash  half  a  pound  of  fresh  Mushrooms,  or  the  same 
quantity  of  trimmings.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of 
butter,  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  white 
broth.  Cover  the  pan  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  cook  for  five 
minutes.  Then  strain  the  gravy  through  a  napkin,  and  use  it  as 
needed. 

SOYA   SAUCE. 

No.  895. — Soya  Sauce  can  be  procured  from  all  first-class  grocers, 
and  is  used  principally  as  a  dressing  for  fish.  In  case  of  necessity, 


20S  HAEDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

prepare  it  as  follows,  using  fresh  field  Mushrooms,  if  possible, 
although  any  kind  will.  do.  Use  about  three  pounds  of  small 
Mushrooms,  and  some  trimmings,  if  any  are  on  hand.  Wash  them 
well  and  put  them  in  layers  in  an  earthen  jar.  Sprinkle  each  layer 
with  a  little  salt.  Cover  the  jar  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place  for  twelve 
hours.  Then  draw  off  all  of  the  liquid  and  strain  it  through  a 
napkin  into  a  saucepan.  Let  it  boil  until  it  is  reduced  to  one-quarter 
of  its  quantity,  and  then  add  a  glassful  of  port  wine,  a  little  red 
pepper,  and  spices  of  all  kinds  in  equal  quantities.  Let  it  boil 
again  until  reduced  as  before,  then  strain  the  liquid,  put  it  in 
bottles  and  cork  them  tightly.  Then  cook  them  in  a  hot  water  bath 
for  five  minutes,  and  wfyen  cold  it  is  ready  for  use. 

MUSHROOM  CATCHUP. 

No.  896. — Take  six  pounds  of  Mushrooms  and  put  them  in  an 
earthen  bowl  in  layers,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  salt.  Set  it  in  a 
cool  dry  place  for  six  hours,  mixing  them  well,  and  mashing  or 
breaking  them  in  small  pieces  at  the  same  time.  Then  cover  them 
with  a  towel  for  three  days,  stirring  them  occasionally.  Then 
drain  off  the  juice  and  put  it  into  an  earthen  jar.  To  each  quart  of 
juice  add  half  an  ounce  of  ginger,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  Cayenne  pepper,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground 
mace.  Cover  the  jar  tight  and  set  it  in  a  saucepan  with  cold  water, 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil,  keeping  it  at  the  boiling  point  for 
six  hours,  adding  boiling  water  as  it  reduces.  Then  pour  the 
Catchup  in  a  saucepan,  let  it  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  skimming 
it  well,  and  then  put  it  in  an  earthen  bowl  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place.  When  it  is  cold  and  clear,  pour  off  the  liquid,  without 
disturbing  the  sediment,  and  put  it  in  tightly-corked  bottles. 

MQSHROOMS,  BORDELAISE. 

FOB  BOLETUS,    OR  CEPES. 

No.  897. — Imported  Boletus,  or  Cepes,  are  much  superior  to 
those  grown  here,  and  are  packed  in  oil  in  tin  cans. 

Put  one  dozen  Cepes  in  an  omelette  pan  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
sweet  oil.  When  thoroughly  warmed,  drain  off  the  oil  and  add 
some  finely  chopped  garlic  and  parsley.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  a 
couple  of  times,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  spoonful  of 
half  glaze,  and  serve  them  hot. 

When  fresh  Cepes  are  used,  they  should  be  cleaned  without 
washing  them.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  in  a  pan  with  some  sweet 
oil,  and  when  they  are  cooked  drain  them,  and  then  put  them  in 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  209 

the  pan  again  with   a   spoonful   of   sweet   oil,  and   finish   as   the 
others. 

MUSHROOMS,    PROVINCIAL. 

FOE    BOLETUS,    OR  CEPES. 

No.  898. — Clean  and  slice  one  dozen  fresh  Oepes  and  put  them 
in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  some  finely  chopped  onions 
and  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  one  bay  leaf  and  two  cloves 
of  garlic.  Toss  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  the  moisture  is 
reduced,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce  and  one  of  Tomato 
sauce.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  them  cook  about  five 
minutes,  and  tfren  take  out  the  faggot.  Before  serving,  add  a 
spoonful  of  Anchovie  butter,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  little 
finely  chopped  parsley.  Toss  them  well  over  the  fire  until  the 
butter  is  melted,  and  serve  them  with  small  pieces  of  toast  around 
the  dish. 

When  canned  Cepes  are  used,  drain  off  the  oil  and  proceed  as 
above. 

MUSHROOMS,    POLONAISE. 

FOR   BOLETUS   OR   CEPES. 

No.  899. — Clean  and  slice  one  dozen  Cepes,  put  them  in  a  small 
flat  saucepan  with  a  little  finely  chopped  onion  and  toss  them  over 
a  brisk  fire  until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  season  them  with 
salt  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper,  add  three  spoonfuls  of  Cream 
sauce  and  toss  them  well  together.  Put  them  in  a  buttered  baking 
dish,  sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  the  top,  add  a  little  clarified 
butter,  and  then  bake  them  in  an  oven. 

MUSHROOMS,    WITH   CREAM. 

FOR    BOLETUS,    OB   CEPES. 

No.  900. — Clean  one  dozen  Cepes,  cut  them  in  halves  and  put 
them  in  a  small  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them 
over  a  brisk  fire  until  the  moisture  is  reduced,  then  season  with  salt 
and  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with 
fennel.  Moisten  them  with  a  cupful  of  cream  and  let  them  cook 
slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  remove  the  faggot  and  put  the 
Cepes  on  a  dish. 

Mix  some  finely  chopped  fennel  or  parsley  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
stirring  it  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  then  pour  it  over  the 
Cepes  and  serve  them. 

If  large  quantities  of  Cepes  are  cooked  it  will  be  best  to  add  a 
light  Cream  sauce. 
14 


210  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

MUSHROOM  TARTLETS,  WITH  CREAM. 

No.  901. — Butter  and  flour  two  dozen  tartlet  moulds,  and  put 
in  a  thin  layer  of  puff  paste. 

Slice  some  Mushrooms  or  Cepes  finely,  and  put  them  in  a  frying 
pan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  few  finely  chopped  shallots.  Toss 
them  over  a  brisk  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  add  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley.  Fill  the  tartlet, 
moulds  with  the  Mushrooms,  then  put  them  in  the  oven  to  cook, 
and  when  nearly  done  take  them  out. 

Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  into  a  froth,  and  add  six  spoonfuls  of 
cold  reduced  Cream  sauce  to  it.  Have  it  ready  when  you  take  the 
tartlets  from  the  oven,  and  pour  a  little  over  each  one.  Put  them 
in  the  oven  again,  and  when  they  are  nicely  browned  take  them  out 
of  the  moulds  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

MUSHROOMS   IN   SHELLS,    RUSSIAN   STYLE. 

No.  902. — Put  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  finely  chopped  onion 
in  a  saucepan  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  one  pound  of 
Mushrooms  (previously  washed  and  trimmed).  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  moisten  them  with  some  lightly  thickened  veal  gravy, 
and  let  them  cook  for  five  .minutes.  Add  a  little  finely  chopped 
parsley  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  put  them  in  small  silver 
baking  shells.  Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and  put  a 
piece  of  butter  on  top  of  each  one.  Let  them  bake  in  an  oven,  and 
when  they  are  nicely  browned,  serve  them  hot  in  the  shells  on  a 
napkin. 

DRY   MUSHROOMS. 

No.  903. — Dry  Mushrooms  should  always  be  kept  on  hand.  The 
best  are  to  be  obtained  from  Italian  warehouses.  Keep  them  in  a 
dry  place  in  covered  jars.  They  are  used  for  flavoring  meats  and 
sauces,  and  are  also  used  in  preparing  macaroni. 

MUSHROOMS   PRESERVED   IN   CANS. 

No.  904. — When  preserving  Mushrooms  only  fresh  and  solid  ones 
should  be  used.  Use  the  hollow  ones  for  other  purposes. 

Select  the  quantity  of  Mushrooms  desired,  trim  them,  wash  them  in 
cold  acidulated  water  and  then  drain  them.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan, 
and  to  every  three  pounds  add  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  a  wine-glassful 
of  water  and  'a  pinch  of  salt.  Cover  the  saucepan,  set  it  on  a  brisk 
fire  and  let  the  Mushrooms  cook  for  five  minutes.  Then  put  them 
in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  when  they  are  cold  drain  oft'  the  moisture. 


• 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  211 

Put  the  Mushrooms  in  pint  tin  cans  and  add  enough  of  the  juice  to 
cover  them.     Then  solder  on  the  covers  and  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot 

water  bath  for  two  hours. 

* 

MUSHROOMS   PRESERVED   IN  JARS. 

No.  905. — Cook  the  Mushrooms  the  same  as  in  No.  876  (adding  a 
little  more  butter  than  usual),  let  them  get  cold  and  then  put  them 
in  glass  jars  holding  one  quart  and  cover  them  air  tight.  Then 
boil  them  for  one  hour  and  a  half  in  a  hot  water  bath.  Much  de- 
pends upon  the  quality  of  the  Mushrooms,  and  they  should  be  pre- 
pared as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are  plucked. 

MUSHROOM   TRIMMINGS,    PRESERVED   FOR   FINE  HERBS. 

No.  906. — Take  the  trimmings  of  Mushrooms,  wash  them  care- 
fully, chop  them  finely,  then  put  them  in  a  towel  and  press  out  all 
of  the  moisture.  Take  a  sufficient  quantity  of  shallots  to  equal  one- 
eighth  of  the  amount  of  Mushroom  trimmings,  chop  them  finely  and 
press  them  in  a  towel.  Mix  the  trimmings  and  shallots,  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Set  it  on  the  fire  for  ten 
minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  set  it 
aside  to  get  cold.  Then  put  the  mixture  in  pint  tin  cans  or  glass 
jars,  seal  them  hermetically  and  boil  them  in  a  hot  water  bath  for 
one  hour. 

MUSHROOMS   PRESERVED. 
FOB  BOLETUS,  OR  CEPES. 

No.  907. — Select  Oepes  all  of  the  same  size,  peel  and  wash  them 
and  dry  them  on  a  towel.  Arrange  them  in  layers  in  pint  tin  cans, 
season  each  layer  with  salt,  and  put  one  clove  of  garlic  in  each  can. 
Put  sufficient  of  the  best  olive  oil  in  each  can  to  cover  them.  Then 
solder  on  the  covers  and  boil  the  cans  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  one 
hour  and  a  half. 


ARTICLE  cxxxii. 


French                                               MUSK     MELON.  German 

Melon  Muscat.  Melon. 

No.  908. — This  is  a  delicious   species  of    melon;  so  called  on 

account  of  its  musky  fragrance.     Owing  to  the  great  facility  with 


212  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

which  the  various  kinds  intermix  or  hybridize,  the  varieties  are  not 
only  numerous,  but  are  constantly  increasing.  Familiar  names  of 
different  varieties  are  changed  annually,  as  new  kinds  with  superior 
recommendations  spring  up,  and  are  offered  as  welcome  substitutes 
for  the  old  kinds. 

CULTURE. 

No.  909. — Cultivate  them  as  you  would  cucumbers,  except  that 
the  hills  should  be  six  feet  apart,  but  avoid  planting  them  near 
cucumbers,  as  they  will  mix  with  and  injure  the  quality  of  the 
melons;  this,  and  heavy  rains  at  the  time  of  ripening,  will  destroy 
the  flavor  of  the  finest  stock.  Rich  earth  for  the  young  plants  is 
far  better  than  manure,  but  if  the  latter  must  be  used,  see  that  it  is 
well  rotted.  If  the  plants  grow  very  rank,  more  and  finer  fruit  will 
be  secured  by  pinching  off  the  ends  of  the  shoots  when  about  three 
feet  long.  Cantaloupes  are  cultivated  in  the  same  manner. 

BEECH   WOOD   MELON. 

No.  910. — The  melon  is  nearly  spherical,  but  is  somewhat  longer 
than  broad.  The  skin  is  of  a  greenish  yellow  color,  thickly  and 
regularly  netted.  The  fiesh  is  green,  being  sugary,  and  of  excellent 
flavor. 

CHRISTIANA. 

No.  911. — This  variety  is  small  and  roundish,  and  matures  early. 
Its  skin  is  of  a  yellowish  green  color,  the  flesh  is  yellow,  sweet,  and 
juicy,  and  of  good  quality. 

CITRON. 

No.  912. — This  is  a  medium  sized  melon,  nearly  round,  but 
flattened  slightly  at  the  ends,  being  deeply  and  thoroughly  ribbed. 
The  skin  is  green,  and  thickly  netted,  but  when  fully  matured  it 
becomes  tinged  with  yellow.  The  flesh  is  thick,  green,  and  juicy, 
having  a  rich  sugary  flavor.  It  is  a  hardy  abundant  bearer,  uniform 
in  quality,  and  is  much  used  in  the  Southern  States. 

HARDY   RIDGE. 

No.  913. — A  productive  variety,  having  small  fruit,  which  is 
strongly  ribbed  and  has  irregular  warts  all  over  its  surface.  The 
skin  is  of  a  dull  yellow  color.  The  flesh  is  about  an  inch  deep,  of 
a  bright  orange-red  color,  and  is  sweet  and  well  flavored. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  213 

LARGE   RIBBED   NETTED. 

No.  914. — The  melon  is  large,  oval,  and  strongly  ribbed,  and  is 
hardy  and  productive  when  planted  in  good  soil.  The  skin  is 
thickly  netted  and  yellow  in  color.  The  flesh  is  of  a  salmon-yellow 
color,  remarkably  thick  and  sweet,  but  is  not  finely  grained. 

NUTMEG. 

No.  915. — The  fruit  is  oval  and  regularly  ribbed,  and  when  fully 
ripened  is  very  delicious,  being  ranked  as  one  of  the  best  kinds. 
The  skin  is  of  a  pale  green  color,  thickly  netted,  though  somewhat 
thin.  The  flesh  is  light  green,  rich,  sweet,  juicy,  and  highly 
perfumed. 

PINE  APPLE. 

No.  916. — This  variety  is  small  and  nearly  round,  having  ribs  that 
are  but  faintly  defined  and  at  times  not  being  noticeable.  The  skin 
is  thin  and  of  an  olive-green  color,  being  more  or  less  netted.  The 
flesh  is  green,  juicy,  sweet,  and  highly  flavored.  This  kind  is 
easily  grown  and  is  very  productive. 

SKILLMAN'S  FINE  NETTED. 

No.  917. — This  is  one  of  the  earliest  sorts,  somewhat  resembling 
the  pine  apple.  It  is  firm  and  almost  round,  being  slightly  flattened 
at  the  ends.  The  flesh  is  green,  juicy,  sugary,  and  excellent. 

VICTORY  OF  BATH. 

No.  918. — The  fruit  is  egg  shaped  and  faintly  ribbed,  being 
rounded  at  the  blossom  end,  and  slightly  contracted  toward  the 
stem.  The  skin  is  thin  and  green,  clouded  with  yellow,  and  sparsely 
covered  with  fine  net  marks.  The  flesh  is  green. 

WHITE  JAPAN. 

No.  919. — This  is  a  roundish,  medium  sized  or  small  melon,  which 
ripens  early,  is  very  desirable  and  quite  productive.  The  skin  is 
very  thin  and  of  a  cream-white  color,  the  flesh  being  remarkably 
sweet  and  finely  flavored. 

MUSK  MELON  FOR  RELISHES. 

No.  920. — Musk  melons,  like  all  the  different  varieties  of  melons, 
are  served  as  a  relish,  or  for  dessert.  They  should  be  kept  in  a 


214  HARDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKERY. 

cool  place  about  an  hour  before  serving  them.  Cut  the  melon  in 
half,  remove  the  seeds,  slice  it  in  ordinary  pieces,  and  serve  them 
on  a  napkin.  Either  sugar  or  pepper  and  salt  can  be  used  with 
.them. 

PICKLED   MELONS   (MANGOES). 

No.  921. — The  small  young  and  green  citron,  or  cantaloupe 
"melons,  can  be  used.  Cut  out  a  small  piece  of  the  melon,  wedge- 
shaped,  so  it  can  be  replaced  nicely,  scoop  out  the  seeds,  replace 
the  plug,  and  put  the  melons  in  the  jar  or  barrel  that  you  intend  to 
fill.  Make  a  brine,  using  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  salt  to  a  gallon 
of  water,  and  boil  it.  Then  pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  melons, 
cover  the  barrel,  and  in  three  days  drain  off  the  brine,  take  the 
melons  out  of  the  barrel  and  stuff  them  the  same  as  pickled  stuffed 
bell  peppers.  Then  put  them  in  jars,  pour  some  cold  boiled  wine 
or  cider  vinegar  over  them,  to  cover,  put  a  small  piece  of  alum  in 
each  jar,  and  cover  them  tightly. 

PRESERVED   MELONS,    SPICED. 

No.  922. — Musk,  citron  or  cantaloupe  melons  can  be  used.  Cut 
the  melons  in  quarters,  take  out  the  seeds  and  remove  the  tenderest 
part  of  the  flesh.  Then  peel  off  the  rinds  and  cut  up  about  five 
pounds  of  the  melon  in  scollops.  Put  six  pounds  of  sugar  in  a 
basin,  to  which  add  five  pints  of  vinegar.  Make  it  boil,  and  pour 
it  boiling  hot  over  the  melons  which  you  have  put  in  a  jar.  Drain 
off  the  syrup  the  next  day,  then  boil  it  and  skim  it,  and  pour  it 
boiling  hot  over  the  melons.  Repeat  this  every  day  for  five  days. 
On  the  sixth  day  boil  the  syrup  again,  adding  to  it  one  ounce  of 
white  ginger,  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon,  six  cloves,  and  the  melons. 
Let  it  boil  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  skim  it  clear,  and  then  take 
it  off  of  the  fire  to  get  cool.  When  cold  put  them  in  glass  jars  and 
cover  them  tightly. 

PRESERVED  MELONS  IN   SYRUP. 

No.  923. — Cut  the  melons  in  quarters,  take  out  the  seeds,  and 
peel  off  the  rinds.  Parboil  them  for  three  minutes,  then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them.  Put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl. 
Make  a  syrup,  using  three  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  to  one  and  a  quarter 
pounds  of  water.  Set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil,  skim  it  well  and  then 
pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  melons.  Cover  them  with  a  paper 
cover  and  set  them  aside  for  twenty-four  hours.  Drain  off  the 
syrup  next  day  and  let  it  boil,  adding  some  more  sugar,  and  then  let 
it  boil  to  a  thread.  Set  it  aside  to  get  cold  and  then  pour  it  over 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  215 

the  melons  again.  Boil  it  over  again  next  day  to  the  same  degree, 
skimming  it  well,  and  pour  it  over  the  melons  when  boiling  hot. 
Boil  it  the  next  day  to  a  thick  thread,  skimming  it  well;  then  add 
in  the  melons  and  let  the  syrup  boil  up  t  .vice.  On  the  following 
day  boil  the  syrup  again  to  the  same  degree,  then  add  the  melons 
and  let  them  simmer  slowly  for  five  minutes.  When  well  skimmed 
put  the  melons  in  glass  jars,  and  when  they  are  cold  cover  them 
tightly. 

NOTE. — The  juice  of  a  lemon,  or  a  little  wine  vinegar,  can  be  added  to  the  syrup  when  cooking 
it  to  heighten  the  flavor. 


ARTICLE  CXXXIII. 


French  MUSTARD.  German 

Moutarde..  Senf. 

No.  924. — There  are  five  kinds  of  Mustard,  the  plant  and  the  seed 
having  a  pungent  taste.  A  condiment  is  made  from  the  ground 
seeds,  which  are  also  used  as  remedial  agents,  being  useful 
externally  in  cataplasms,  and  internally  as  a  diuretic  and  irritant. 
The  rough  leaves  of  the  White  Mustard  plant,  when  young  and 
undeveloped,  make  a  pungent  salad  when  mixed  with  water  cress. 
They  are  also  cooked  and  prepared  the  same  as  spinach.  The  Black 
Mustard  seed  makes  the  most  piquant  Mustard  for  table  purposes. 

CULTURE. 

No.  925. — Sow  the  seeds  thickly  in  rows  and  cut  the  plants  when 
they  are  about  two  inches  high.  For  a  crop  of  seeds  sow  in  April, 
in  drills  one  foot  apart,  and  thin  the  plants  out  moderately  when 
they  are  about  three  inches  high.  For  use  during  winter  it  may  be 
sown  at  intervals  in  boxes,  in  the  green  house  or  in  frames. 

WHITE   MUSTAED. 

No.  926. — The  White  Mustard  plant  is  a  hardy  annual  that  grows 
in  gardens  and  fields,  having  thin  stems  that  attain  a  height  of 
about  three  feet.  The  leaves  are  large  and  of  a  rich  deep  green 
color.  When  it  is  grown  in  gardens  for  salad  or  greens  sow  it  as 
early  as  the  ground  will  admit,  in  drills  ten  inches  apart.  Remove 
the  weeds  and  water  it  well  in  dry  weather.  Out  the  plants  when 
in  seed  leaf,  as  when  they  become  developed  they  get  strong  and 
ill-flavored. 


216  HARDEB'S  AMEBICAN  COOKEBY. 

CHINESE  OB  PEKIN  MUSTARD. 

No.  927. — This  is  a  hardy  annual  that  grows  about  four  feet  high, 
and  has  large  leaves,  which  are  used  in  salad  and  are  also  prepared 
the  same  as  spinach. 

CUELED   MUSTARD. 

No.  928. — This  plant  is  small,  with  greenish  yellow  leaves  of 
medium  size,  that  are  finely  cut  on  the  borders  and  beautifully 
curled.  They  have  a  pleasant  taste  when  used  in  salads.  The  seeds 
resemble  those  of  the  Black  Mustard. 

CUT  LEAVED   MUSTARD. 

No.  929. — The  leaves,  when  young,  make  an  excellent  salad  when 
mixed  with  water  cress. 

BLACK   MUSTARD. 

No.  930. — This  is  a  hardy  annual  that  grows  in  great  abundance. 
The  young  plants,  cut  to  the  ground,  are  used  the  same  as  spinach, 
or  in  salads.  The  common  table  Mustard  is  made  from  the  seeds 
of  this  variety. 

CHARLOCK   MUSTARD. 

No.  931. — This  is  a  wild  field  plant  and  is  used  for  greens  or 
salad  and  has  a  peculiar  pleasant  taste. 

MUSTARD  FLOUR  MIXED  FOR  TABLE  USE. 

No.  932. — Americans  generally  prefer  Mustard  flour  mixed  with 
vinegar  or  plain  with  water.  Epicures  prefer  it  mixed  with  hot 
water  and  white  wine,  or  with  new  wine  and  vinegar.  French 
Mustard  can  be  obtained  from  all  first-class  grocers.  There  are 
several  varieties,  some  of  which  are  flavored  with  tarragon, 
anchovies  or  fine  herbs,  etc. 

NOTE. — Never  use  a  metallic  spoon  in  mustard  as  it  forms  verdigris  when  left  to  stand  in  the 
Mustard  pot,  and  may  render  it  poisonous. 

ANCHOVIE   MUSTARD. 

No.  933. — Trim  one  dozen  of  salted  anchovies,  pound  them  in  a 
mortar  into  a  fine  paste,  and  rub  the  paste  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Then  put  it  back  in  the  mortar  and  add  half  a  pound  of  Mustard 
flour  diluted  with  white  wine.  Mix  it  all  well  together  and  put  it 
in  small  bottles  and  cork  them  tightly. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  217 

EAVIGOTE  MUSTARD. 

No.  934. — Pick  half  a  pound  of  the  leaves  of  burnet,  tarragon, 
chervil,  and  garden  cress.  Dip  them  in  boiling  water  for  a  minute, 
then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  and  afterwards  put  them  in  a 
towel  and  press  out  all  of  the  moisture.  Pound  it  finely  in  a  mortar, 
adding  a  clove  of  garlic  if  that  flavor  is  desired.  Then  rub  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  back  in  the  mortar.  Add  half  a 
pound  of  Mustard  flour  diluted  with  water,  and  mix  the  whole  well 
together.  Then  put  it  in  small  bottles  and  cork  them  tightly. 

MUSTARD  SAUCE   FOR  DEVILED  "MEATS. 

No.  935. — Put  half  a  pound  of  Mustard  flour  in  a  bowl  and  add 
a  pinch  of  red  pepper,  a  little  salt,  and  four  soup-spoonfuls  of  Wor- 
cestershire sauce.  Dilute  this  with  wine  vinegar  to  the  consistency 
of  a  sauce.  Put  it  in  bottles  for  future  use. 


ARTICLE  CXXXIV. 


French  NASTURTIUM.  German 

Capucine.  Indishe  Kresse. 

No.  936. — This  is  a  climbing  plant,  which,  though  generally 
treated  as  an  annual,  is  a  tender  perennial.  It  has  peltate  leaves 
and  spurred  flowers  of  a  vivid  yellow  or  orange  color,  and  strong 
odor.  The  fleshy  fruits  have  a  warm,  pungent  flavor,  like  the  cress, 
and  are  pickled  and  used  the  same  as  capers.  The  small  green 
ones  are  preferred  and  are  used  in  sauces  and  with  salads.  The 
young  shoots  are  eaten  as  a  salad,  while  the  richly  colored  flowers 
make  a  handsome  garniture  for  salads. 

CULTURE. 

No.  937. — When  they  are  cultivated  for  their  flowers  or  seeds 
they  should  be  planted  in  poor,  light  soil.  The  drills  are  made 
three  feet  apart,  and  the  young  plants  should  be  thinned  out  to  six 
inches  apart.  The  young  crop  is  supported  by  staking  or  bushing, 
the  same  as  peas,  and  requires  much  attention.  See  that  they  are 
properly  attached  to  the  stakes,  and  keep  the  ground  free  from 
weeds. 


218  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

SMALL  NASTURTIUM. 

No.  938. — This  is  a  dwarf  variety,  the  stem  rarely  measuring  more 
than  two  feet  in  length.  The  flowers  are  yellow  and  the  pods  are 
small,  being  preferred  to  the  others  for  pickling.  It  yields 
abundantly. 

TALL   NASTURTIUM. 

No.  939. — This  variety  is  very  ornamental  for  covering  arbors, 
having  a  stem  from  six  to  eight  feet  high.  Sow  it  in  rich  made 
soil  to  have  luxuriant  foliage.  It  has  large  yellow  flowers,  with  the 
upper  petals  slightly  streaked  and  marked  with  purple. 

DARK  FLOWERING. 

No.  940. — This  variety  is  similar  to  the  Tall  Nasturtium,  except 
that  the  flowers  are  of  a  dark  brown  color. 

NASTURTIUM   SEED    BUDS,    PICKLED. 

No.  941. — Pick  the  quantity  of  seed  buds  desired,  and  put  them 
in  bottles.  Boil  some  good  wine  vinegar,  and  when  it  is  cold  pour 
it  over  the  seed  buds  in  the  bottles,  and  add  a  sprig  of  tarragon. 
They  are  used  the  same  as  capers. 


ARTICLE 


French  NETTLE.  German 

Ortie.  Vessel. 

No.  942. — The  common  Nettle  is  a  hardy,  herbaceous  perennial, 
which  grows  naturally  and  in  abundance  by  the  wayside,  but  it  is 
seldom  seen  where  people  have  not  been  at  work;  hence  it  is  consid- 
ered a  sort  of  domestic  plant.  The  stem  is  erect  and  branching,  while 
the  leaves  are  heart-shaped  at  the  base,  toothed  on  the  borders,  and 
thickly  set  with  small,  stinging  hair-like  bristles.  The  common 
Nettle  produces  a  large  proportion  of  fiber,  which  is  used  in  making 
ropes,  cordage,  sewing  thread,  and  white  linen  cloth  of  superior 
quality.  Like  many  other  common  plants  the  superior  merit  of 
these  troublesome  weeds  has  been  greatly  overlooked.  Early  in 
April  the  tops  will  furnish  tender  leaves  that  are  used  as  a  pot  herb 
for  soups,  or  are  prepared  the  same  as  spinach.  The  cultivated 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  219 

Nettle  is  used  most,  being  propagated  from  roots  that- are  planted 
either  in  pots  or  in  the  forcing  house.  They  will  soon  send  up  an 
abundance  of  tender  tops.  They  may  be  blanched  by  covering 
them  with  other  pots.  If  planted  close  to  a  flue  in  the  vineyard 
they  will  produce  excellent  Nettle-kale  or  Nettle-spinach  in  January 
or  February. 


ARTICLE:  CXXXVI. 


French  NEW   ZEALAND   SPINACH.  German 

Epinart  (Belle  dame}.  Spinal 

No.  943. — This  Spinach  is  quite  distinct  from  the  common  garden 
Spinach,  varying  essentially  in  its  general  habit.  It  is  a  hardy  annual 
plant,  and  is  more  productive  than  the  average  of  spinaceous  plants. 
The  leaves  are  of  a  fine  green  color,  large,  broad,  thick  and  fleshy. 
The  leaves  are  the  parts  of  the  plant  eaten,  being  gathered  as  they  are 
developed,  leaving  the  ends  of  the  young  shoots  uninjured.  If  not 
cut  to  excess  the  plant  will  yield  abundantly  until  destroyed  by 
frost.  The  leaves  retain  their  fresh,  succulent  character  after  they 
are  fully  grown,  and  even  under  the  influence  of  the  heat  and 
draught.  It  is  prepared  the  same  as  common  garden  Spinach  for 
table  use. 


CXXXVI  I. 


NUTMEG. 

Muscade  (Noix).  Muskatennus. 

No.  944. — The  Nutmeg  tree  is  about  thirty  feet  high,  with 
numerous  branches,  and  an  aspect  somewhat  resembling  that  of  the 
orange  tree.  The  leaves  stand  alternately  on  short  foot  stalks,  and 
are  oblong-oval,  pointed,  entire,  undulated,  bright  green  and  some- 
what glossy  on  their  upper  surface,  whitish  beneath,  and  of  an 
aromatic  taste.  The  flowers  are  male  and  female  on  different  trees. 
The  former  are  disposed  in  axillary,  peduncled,  solitary  clusters, 
and  the  latter  are  single,  solitary,  and  axillary,  Both  are  minute 
and  of  a  pale  yellowish  color.  The  fruit  which  appears  on  the  tree 
mingled  with  the  flowers,  is  round  or  oval;  of  the  size  of  a  small 
peach,  smooth,  at  first  pale  green,  but  yellow  when  ripe,  and  marked 
with  a  longitudinal  furrow.  The  external  covering,  which  is  at  first 


220  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

thick  and  fleshy,  and  abounds  in  an  austere,  astringent  juice, 
afterwards  becomes  dry  and  coriaceous,  and,  separating  into  two 
valves  from  the  apex,  discloses  a  scarlet,  reticulated  membrane, 
commonly  called  mace,  closely  investing  a  thin,  brown,  shining 
shell,  which  contains  the  kernel  or  Nutmeg.  It  is  a  native  of  the 
Moluccas  and  other  neighboring  islands,  and  abounds  in  the  Banda 
Islands,  whence  the  chief  supplies  of  Nutmegs  were  long  derived. 
Numerous  varieties  are  cultivated  in  Sumatra,  Java,  Penang,  Ceylon, 
and  other  parts  of  the  East  Indies,  and  have  been  introduced  into 
the  Isles  of  France  and  Bourbon,  Cayenne,  and  several  of  the  West 
India  islands.  The  Penang  Nutmegs  are  distinguished  by  not  being 
limed.  When  Nutmeg  is  cut  or  broken  it  presents  a  yellowish 
surface,  varied  with  a  reddish  brown,  branching,  irregular  veins, 
which  give  to  it  a  marbled  appearance.  These  dark  veins  abound 
in  oily  matter,  upon  which  the  medicinal  properties  depend.  The 
odor  of  Nutmeg  is  delightfully  fragrant,  the  taste  warm,  aromatic, 
and  grateful.  Its  virtues  are  extracted  by  alcohol  and  ether.  The 
largest  Nutmegs  are  the  most  expensive.  They  should  be  rejected 
when  very  light,  with  a  feeble  taste  and  smell,  worm  eaten,  musty, 
or  marked  with  black  veins.  Nutmeg  has  considerable  narcotic 
power,  and  when  taken  in  doses  of  from  two  to  three  drams  will 
produce  stupor  and  delirium,  and  dangerous  if  not  fatal  conse- 
quences. It  is  frequently  used  as  an  agreeable  addition  to 
farinaceous  articles  of  diet,  and  to  various  kinds  of  drink  in  cases 
of  languid  appetite  and  delicate  stomach.  It  is  usually  given  in 
substance,  and  is  brought  by  grating  to  the  state  of  a  powder.  Its 
pleasant  flavor  makes  it  invaluable  in  cookery  for  seasoning.  Nut- 
meg should  always  be  purchased  entire,  as  when  it  is  ground  it  soon 
loses  its  strength.  To  ascertain  if  they  are  fresh  stick  a  pin  in  one, 
and  if  the  pin  is  oily  when  you  withdraw  it  the  Nutmeg  is  fresh. 
When  dry  they  are  of  no  use. 


ARTICLE:  CXXXVIII. 


French  OAK,   COMMON   WALL  GERMANDER.  German 

Petit*  Chene.  Baumgamander. 

No.  945. — The  Oak  Germander  is  a  small  perennial  European 
plant,  the  leaves  and  tops  of  which  have  an  agreeable  aromatic  odor, 
diminished  by  drying',  and  a  bitter,  somewhat  astringent,  aromatic, 
durable  taste.  They  have  been  used  as  a  corroborant  in  uterine, 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  221 

rheumatic,  gouty,  and  scrofulous  affections,  and  intermittent  fevers. 
Pick  the  flowers,  remove  the  petals,  and  dry  them.  For  their 
preparation  see  Diet  Drinks,  Article  LXXXIT. 


ARTICLE;  cxxxix. 


French  OATS.  German 

Farine  D'Avoine,.  Hafermehl. 

No.  946. — The  common  white  Oat  is  specifically  distinguished  by 
its  loose  panicle,  its  two-seeded  glumes,  and  its  smooth  seeds,  one 
of  which  is  awned.  It  is  cultivated  all  over  the  world  chiefly  for 
horses,  but  the  grain  is  very  nourishing  and  is  largely  consumed  as 
food  in  Great  Britain  and  other  countries.  A  decoction  is  said  to 
possess  decided  diuretic  properties,  and  to  be  useful  in  dropsy. 
The  seeds  deprived  of  their  husks  are  sometimes  called  groats.  As 
a  food  coarsely  ground  Oat  meal  is  usually  preferred  to  the  fine  meal. 
Oat  meal  is  very  slightly,  but  not  unpleasantly,  bitter,  and  yields 
most  of  its  nutritive  matter  readily  to  boiling  water.  Gruel  made 
from  Oat  meal  affords  a  nutritious  and  easily  digested  aliment.  It 
is  generally  administered  after  brisk  cathartics  to  render  them 
easier  and  more  efficient  in  their  action. 

BLACK   CHAMPION. 

No.  947. — This  new  Oat  possesses  great  merit.  Its  tillering 
properties  are  remarkable.  The  heads,  or  panicles,  are  long  and 
very  spreading,  averaging  sixty  or  seventy  spikelets,  from  twelve  to 
eighteen  inches  in  length,  with  two  large  grains  to  each  spinkelet. 
The  kernels  are  extra  large,  plump  and  heavy,  black  and  glossy; 
are  without  awns,  while  the  husk  is  thin  and  soft.  The  straw  is 
from  three  to  six  feet  long,  stiff  and  elastic,  does  not  lodge,  and  so 
far  seems  to  be  rust-proof.  Only  half  the  quantity  of  seed  should 
be  sown,  compared  with  other  sorts. 

AMEEICAN  TRIUMPH. 

No.  948. — This  variety  has  many  excellent  qualities.  Its  average 
height  when  standing  in  the  field  is  six  feet,  yet  the  straw  is  so 
strong  anil  firm  that  it  holds  up  well,  without  lodging.  The  tall, 
luxuriant  heads  are  filled  with  plump,  heavy  grains. 


222  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY, 

RUSSIAN  WHITE  OATS. 

No.  949. — This  grain  is  very  productive,  a  single  grain  giving 
sixteen  stalks  in  many  instances.  It  is  generally  free  from  rust, 
and  is  well  adapted  for  general  use. 

GRUEL. 

No.  950. — Gruel  is  prepared  in  different  ways  with  oat(meal  flour, 
and  with  the  grain.  Use  fresh  flour  only,  as  it  is  liable  to  have  a 
sour  taste,  if  not  kept  in  a  dry,  warm  place.  When  using  flour  the 
gruel  is  prepared  with  water,  milk  or  broth,  then  sweetened  with 
sugar  or  honey,  and  flavored  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  When 
making  gruel  from  the  whole  grains  steep  them  in  cold  water  over 
night,  then  drain  them  and  let  them  cook  slowly  in  water  or  milk, 
and  when  cooked  strain  the  gruel  through  a  towel  with  pressure,  and 
sweeten  to  taste. 

OAT   MEAL   GRUEL. 

No.  951. — Oat  meal  gruel  may  be  prepared  by  boiling  an  ounce 
of  meal  with  three  pints  of  water  to  a  quart,  straining  the  decoction, 
allowing  it  to  stand  until  it  cools,  and  then  pouring  oflf  the  clear 
liquor  from  the  sediment.  Sugar  and  lemon  juice  may  be  added 
to  improve  its  flavor;  raisins  are  not  unfrequently  boiled  with  the 
meal  and  water  for  the  same  purpose. 

SCOTCH   OAT  MEAL   GRUEL. 

No.  952. — Soak  one  pound  of  Oat  meal  over  night,  then  strain  the 
liquid  through  a  towel,  with  pressure,  to  extract  as  much  of  the 
farinaceous  matter  as  will  go  through.  Put  one  quart  of  water 
in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  boils  add  a  little  salt  and  the  liquid 
extracted  from  the  Oat  meal.  Let  it  boil  down  until  it  thickens, 
and  serve  it  hot,  or  allow  it  to  cool  to  a  jelly-like  mass,  and  serve 
it  with  cream  and  powdered  sugar. 

«  OAT  MEAL  PORRIDGE. 

No.  953. — Boil  two  quarts  of  water  in  a  sauce  pan,  season  it  with 
salt,  and  drop  in  slowly  one  pound  of  Oat  meal  while  stirring  it 
with  a  wooden  spoon.  Let  it  boil  slowly  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  slowly  for  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  stirring  it  up  occasionally  from  the  bottom.  A  little  milk 
and  butter  may  be  added  before  serving,  or  serve  it  with  a  pitcher 
of  cream,  some  sugar  and  butter. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  223 

CEEAM   OF   OAT   MEAL. 

No.  954. — Put  two  quarts  of  milk  in  a  sauce  pan,  and  when  it  boils 
add  six  ounces  of  Oat  meal  flour  diluted  with  cold  milk,  stirring 
it  well.  Then  let  it  boil  slowly  and  add  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  the  peel 
of  a  lemon,  a  few  coriander  seeds,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  one  of  mace. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan 
to  keep  warm,  not  allowing  it  to  boil.  Add  some  powdered  sugar 
to  sweeten  it,  stirring  until  the  sugar  is  melted.  Serve  it  in  small 
cups. 


CXL. 


French  OKRA,   OR   GUMBO.  German 

Gumbo.  Ocher. 

No.  955. — Okra  is  an  annual  plant  from  the  West  Indies  and 
South  America,  and  is  largely  raised  in  the  Southern  States.  It  is 
cultivated  for  its  green  seed  pods,  which  are  used  in  soups  and 
served  as  a  vegetable.  The  pods  when  young  and  tender  should  be 
cut  in  sections,  strung  on  twine  and  hung  up  in  the  shade  to  cure 
(the  same  way  as  dried  fruit).  In  this  condition  the  Okra  can  be 
used  for  soup  at  any  time. 

CULTURE. 

No.  956. — Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  dry,  warm  soil,  in  shallow  drills 
two  feet  apart.  Cover  the  seeds  lightly,  and  after  the  plants  are 
up  thin  them  out  to  nine  inches  apart.  Hoe  frequently  and  draw 
a  little  earth  to  the  stems  as  they  continue  to  grow.  Gather  the 
pods  when  quite  green  and  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long. 

DWARF   GREEN. 

No.  957. — The  earliest  and  best  variety  for  the  Northern  or  East- 
ern States. 

LONG   GREEN. 

No.  958. — Long,  pale  green  and  ribbed. 


224  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

FALL,  OR  GIANT  ( WHITE  PODDED). 

No.  959. — It  yields  abundantly,  especially  in  the  Southern  States, 
and  is  similar  to  the  dwarf  plant  with  the  exception  of  being  larger 
in  size. 

STEWED   OKRA,    PLAIN. 

No.  960. — Cut  the  stems  from  fifty  Okra,  and  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  boiling  water  to  cover.  Season  with  salt  and  cook  them 
on  a  brisk  fire  until  they  are  tender.  Then  drain  them  and  dish 
them  up,  pouring  over  them  a  little  melted  butter,  with  which  add 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  some  salt  and  pepper. 

STEWED   OKRA,    WITH   TOMATOES. 

No.  961. — Cut  the  stems  from  two  dozen  Okra,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  dozen  peeled  tomatoes  cut  in  quarters,  and 
moisten  with  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  water.  Add  a  piece  of  butter 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Let  them  simmer  for  half  an 
hour. 

NOTE. — When  cooked  they  may  be  baked  by  being  put  in  a  buttered  deep  baking  dish  and  sprink- 
led over  with  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Wipe  the  border,  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  top,  divided  in  small 
parts,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

OKRA  STEWED  WITH  FINE   HERBS. 

No.  962. — Cut  off  both  ends  of  some  Okra,  wash  them  in  cold 
water  and  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  boiling 
water  and  a  little  salt.  Let  them  boil  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  when 
tender  drain  off  some  of  the  liquid,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley. 

OKRA  SALAD. 

No.  963. — When  the  Okra  is  boiled  as  in  No.  960  drain  them,  and 
when  cold  slice  them  and  add  a  few  finely  sliced  green  peppers, 
vinegar,  oil  and  a  few  chopped  chives. 

OKRA    FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  964. — When  used  for  garniture  in  stews,  add  the  Okra  when 
the  meats  are  nearly  cooked.  Leave  the  smaller  pods  whole  and 
cut  the  larger  ones  in  half. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  225 

OKRAFOE  SOUP. 

No.  965. — Cut  the  Okra  in  slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and 
add  them  to  the  soup  fifteen  minutes  before  serving.  Let  it  boil 

slowly. 

DEY   OKRA,    ITS   USE. 

No.  966. — Dry  Okra  is  used  for  soup  when  the  green  variety  is 
not  to  be  had.  Wash  it  in  cold  water  and  let  it  soak  for  an  hour, 
then  proceed  as  above,  care  being  taken  to  have  only  a  good  qual- 
ity or  the  Okra  will  taste  like  hay.  "When  the  best  quality  of  canned 
Okra  can  be  had  it  will  be  found  far  superior  to  the  dry,  and  it 
needs  only  to  be  added  to  the  soup  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

OKRA,  OR    GUMBO  SOUP,  WITH  CHICKEN. 

No.  967. — Cut  two  tender  chickens  into  small  pieces,  about  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter.  Fry  them  lightly  and  then  add  two  medium-sized  onions, 
chopped  finely,  with  half  their  quantity  of  lean,  raw  ham,  cut  the 
same  way.  Cook  them  for  a  few  minutes,  then  moisten  with  a 
gallon  of  chicken  or  veal  broth.  When  it  boils  skim  off  the  grease 
and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  celery  and  a  leek. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  two  green  peppers  cut  into  small 
slices  and  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  slowly.  When  the 
chicken  is  half  cooked  add  one  dozen  of  peeled  tomatoes  cut  in 
quarters  (or  if  they  are  large  into  six  parts),  with  four  ounces  of 
Carolina  rice  and  about  fifty  sliced  Okra.  When  they  are  cooked 
skim  the  soup,  take  out  the  faggot,  and  serve.  When  properly 
cooked  the  broth  will  be  found  to  have  a  mucilaginous  consistency. 


ARTICLE 


French  ONIONS.  German 

Oignun.  Zwiebeln. 

No.  968. — The  Onion  is  a  half-hardy  biennial  plant.  The  roots 
and  leaves,  however,  are  annual,  as  they  usually  perish  during  the 
first  year.  The  bulbs,  for  which  the  plant  is  generally  cultivated, 
are  biennial,  and  differ  to  a  considerable  extent  in  their  size,  form, 
and  color.  It  contains  considerable  nutriment  and  has  valuable 
15 


226  HARDER'S  AMEEICAN  COOKERY. 

medicinal  qualities.  The  disagreeable  odor  it  imparts  to  the  breath 
may  be  avoided  in  a  great  measure  by  thorough  cooking,  or  by 
eating  a  few  leaves  of  parsley.  Much  depends  upon  the  climate 
and  soil  as  well  as  the  quality  of  seed,  which  exerts  a  great  influence 
on  the  crop,  and  to  this  end  great  care  should  be  exercised  in 
selecting  the  seed.  The  white  Onion  is  much  sweeter  than  the  red. 
Onions  are  used  more  than  any  other  vegetable  for  culinary 
purposes. 

PREPARATION   OF  THE   SOIL. 

No.  969. — A  good  crop  of  Onions  can  be  raised  in  any  soil  which 
will  produce  a  full  crop  of  corn,  unless  it  be  stiff  clay,  very  light 
sand  or  gravel,  or  certain  varieties  of  muck  or  swamp  land.  There 
is  no  crop  in  which  the  quality  of  the  manure  used  is  of  greater 
importance  than  in  this.  If  it  is  too  rank  it  is  quite  sure  to  make 
soft  Onions,  with  many  scullions.  It  should  be  fermented  during 
the  previous  summer  to  kill  the  wheat  seeds.  All  refuse  of  the 
previous  crop  should  be  removed,  the  manure  spread  evenly,  and 
the  ground  plowed  a  moderate  depth,  in  order  to  thoroughly  mix  the 
manure  with  the  soil.  Cultivate  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground 
will  permit.  It  is  impossible  to  cultivate  the  crop  economically 
unless  the  rows  are  perfectly  straight,  and  to  secure  this,  stretch  a 
line  along  one  side,  fourteen  feet  from  the  edge,  and  make  a  distinct 
mark  as  a  guide.  Then  having  made  a  wooden  marker  something 
like  a  giant  rake  (with  five  teeth  about  a  foot  long,  and  fourteen 
inches  apart),  make  four  more  marks  by  carefully  drawing  it  with 
the  outside  tooth  in  the  line  and  the  head  at  right  angles  to  the 
perfectly  straight  mark  made  by  the  line.  Continue  to  work  around 
this  line  until  on  the  third  passage  of  the  marker  you  reach  the 
side  of  the  field  where  you  began.  Measure  fifteen  feet  two  inches 
from  the  last  row,  stretch  the  line  again  and  mark  around  in  the 
same  way.  This  is  much  better  than  to  stretch  a  line  along  one 
side.  Sow  the  seed  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  read}',  which  can  be 
done  best  by  a  hand  seed  drill. 

CULTURE. 

No.  970. — As  soon  as  the  Onions  are  up  so  they  can  be  seen  the 
length  of  the  rows,  hoe  them  by  just  skimming  the  ground  between 
the  rows.  A  few  days  after  give  them  the  second  hoeing.  This 
time  hoe  close  up  to  the  plants.  After  this  weeding  must  commence, 
which  should  be  done  thoroughly  and  carefully,  stirring  the  earth 
around  the  plants  in  order  to  destroy  any  weeds  that  have  just 
started  and  cannot  be  seen.  In  about  two  weeks  they  will  require 
another  hoeing  and  weeding,  similar  to  the  last,  and  two  weeks 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  227 

later  another  if  necessary.  If  the  work  is  carefully  done  the  crop 
will  need  no  further  attention  until  ready  to  gather.  Then,  as  soon 
as  the  tops  die  and  fall,  the  crop  should  be  gathered  by  pulling 
four  rows  and  laying  them  in  one  row  (the  tops  all  one  way),  and 
then  forming  a  similar  row  with  the  tops  in  the  opposite  direction. 
If  the  weather  is  fine  they  will  require  no  attention,  while  curing, 
but  if  not  they  will  need  to  be  stirred,  by  simply  moving  them 
slightly  along  the  row.  When  the  tops  are  perfectly  dry  cut  them 
off  half  an  inch  from  the  bulb  and  throw  each  pair  of  rows  together, 
forming  windrows  about  nine  feet  apart.  After  a  few  days  of  bright 
weather  they  will  be  fit  to  store  away. 

HOW  TO  KEEP  ONIONS  THROUGH  THE  WINTER. 

No.  971. — It  is  essential  for  the  preservation  of  Onions  to  keep 
them  dry,  to  have  thorough  ventilation,  and  to  keep  them  free  from 
frost.  One  of  the  most  popular  methods  of  keeping  Onions  is  to 
spread  straw  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  inches  on  a  dry  floor  and  upon 
this  spread  the  Onions  ten  inches  deep  and  cover  them  with  one  foot 
of  straw.  They  will  then  keep  in  fine  condition  for  months.  Upon 
the  approach  of  cold  weather  close  the  doors  and  windows,  keeping 
the  temperature  just  above  the  freezing  point.  With  proper  care 
they  can  be  kept  sound  until  spring. 

REMARKS  ON  SMALL   ONIONS. 

No.  972. — It  is  difficult  to  grow  Onions  from  seed  in  certain 
localities,  while  from  sets  good  Onions  are  grown  quite  early.  The 
sets  are  little  Onions  grown  up  the  previous  year  and  taken  up  when 
as  large  as  peas.  When  set  out  in  the  spring  they  very  soon  form 
good  large  Onions.  There  are  two  kinds  of  Onions  that  are  not 
grown  from  seed,  the  Potato  and  the  Top  Onion.  The  Potato 
Onion  grows  in  clusters  under  the  ground.  These  little  bulbs  are 
planted  in  the  spring  and  produce  large  Onions.  The  large  Onions 
are  planted  the  next  spring  and  produce  the  clusters.  The  Top 
Onion  produces  the  small  clusters  on  the  top  of  the  stem,  where 
the  seed  is  produced  in  the  common  varieties.  These  small  Onions, 
are  planted  in  the  spring  and  the  result  is  full  grown  Onions;  the 
large  ones  with  a  year's  growth  produce  the  clusters. 

EARLY  RED   GLOBE. 

No.  973. — This  variety  is  globe-shaped  and  very  handsome  in 
appearance.  The  skin  has  a  deep  red  color,  and  the  flesh  is  mild 
and  tender. 


228  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EXTRA  EARLY  RED. 

No.  974. — A  medium-sized  flat  variety,  producing  abundantly  and 
very  desirable  for  early  use.  It  is  uniform  in  shape,  of  moderate 
size  and  is  strongly  flavored. 

LARGE  RED  WETHERFIELD. 

No.  975. — This  is  a  standard  and  favorite  variety  in  the  East  and 
is  excellent  for  exportation.  It  is  very  productive,  generally  of 
large  size  and  keeps  well.  It  is  almost  round,  being  a  little  flat- 
tened. The  skin  is  of  a  purplish  red  color  and  the  flavor  is  strong. 

LARGE  YELLOW  DUTCH. 

No.  876. — One  of  the  oldest  and  best  known  varieties.  It  is 
mild  and  well  flavored,  having  white,  finely  grained  flesh. 

YELLOW  DANVERS. 

No.  977. — This  is  a  fine  globular  variety  of  medium  size.  The 
skin  is  of  a  yellowish-brown  color,  and  the  flesh  is  white  with  a 
mild  flavor. 

WHITE   PORTUGAL,    SILVER   SKIN. 

No.  978. — This  is  a  large,  flat  and  mild  flavored  Onion,  that  is 
much  esteemed  for  pickling,  and  keeps  better  than  any  of  the  white 
Onions. 

WHITE   SILVER  SKIN,    FOR   PICKLING. 

No.  979. — This  is  a  large  Onion,  and  is  preferred  to  any  other 
kind  for  pickling.  It  is  handsome  in  appearance. 

WHITE  GLOBE. 

No.  980. — This  variety  yields  abundantly,  producing  handsome 
globe-shaped  bulbs.  The  flesh  is  firm,  finely  grained  and  of  mild 
flavor. 

LARGE  MEXICAN. 

No.  981. — This  variety  attains  a  diameter  of  six  inches,  and 
weighs  from  three  to  four  pounds.  It  is  usually  eaten  raw,  having 
white,  coarsely-grained  flesh  of  mild  flavor.  The  skin  is  generally 
white,  and  sometimes  of  a  light  reddish  color. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  „  229 

EARLY  NEOPOLITAN   MAEZAJOLA. 

No.  982. — A  beautiful  white-skinned  flat  variety,  and  a  good 
keeper.  If  it  is  sown  in  February  or  March,  a  crop  will  mature 
early  in  the  season. 

GIANT  EOCCA. 

No.  983. — This  variety  is  well  adapted  for  culinary  purposes, 
having  a  mild  flavor,  tender  flesh  and  a  light  brown  skin.  It  pro- 
duces large  globular  Onions  from  seed  the  first  season,  but  to  attain 
its  largest  growth,  the  smallest  bulbs  should  be  set  out  the  next 
spring,  when  they  will  continue  increasing  in  size  instead  of  pro- 
ducing seed. 

GIANT  "WHITE  ITALIAN  TEIPOLI. 

No.  984. — This  is  a  large,  beautiful,  pure  white  flat  variety,  that 
will  produce  large  Onions  from  seed,  but  to  attain  their  largest  size 
the  small  bulbs  should  be  set  out  the  following  spring.  The  flavor 
is  mild  and  excellent. 

NEW   QUEEN. 

No.  985. — This  variety  grows  quickly  and  keeps  well.  If  sown 
in  February,  it  will  produce  Onions  two  inches  in  diameter  early 
in  summer.  If  sown  in  July,  they  will  be  ready  to  pull  out  in 
autumn,  and  will  be  sound  and  fit  for  use  until  the  following 
autumn.  If  sown  thickly,  they  will  mature  perfectly  hard.  They 
are  particularly  valuable  for  pickling. 

BED,  YELLOW  OR  WHITE  BOTTOM  SETS. 

No.  986. — The  sets  are  produced  by  sowing  the  seed  very  thickly 
in  the  spring,  without  thinning  them  out;  they  mature  when  about 
one  inch  up.  Their  use  is  precisely  the  same  as  the  Top  Onions — 
to  set  them  out  in  the  spring  instead  of  sowing  seed.  The  seed  of 
the  White  Silver  Skin  or  the  White  Portugal  varieties,  is  used  for 
the  White  Set.  They  do  not  keep  as  well  as  the  others,  but  produce 
small  white  Onions  early  in  the  season. 

ENGLISH  MULTIPLIER. 

No.  987. — Esteemed  by  man}r  as  the  best  variety  for  early  use. 
It  is  large  in  size,  of  a  mild,  sweet  sugary  flavor,  very  early  and  a 
large  producer.  The  large  Onions  produce  several  small  Onions 
in  clusters  around  the  bulb,  growing  mostly  on  the  top  of  the 
ground. 


230  .  HAEDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY 

POTATO   ONION. 

No.  988. — This  variety  produces  a  quantity  of  young  bulbs  on 
'the  root,  which  should  only  be  planted  in  spring,  six  inches  apart, 
in  rows  that  are  eighteen  inches  wide,  under  one  inch  of  soil.  The 
English  Multiplier  should  be  planted  in  the  same  way.  The  large 
bulbs  produce  small  Onions  and  the  small  bulbs  large  ones. 

PLAIN   BOILED    ONIONS. 

No.  989. — Peel  two  dozen  medium-sized  Onions,  cut  off  the  roots 
and  stems  and  be  careful  not  to  injure  the  skin.  Put  them  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  them  with  water,  add  a  little  salt  and  a  piece  of 
butter,  cover  the  saucepan,  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  and  when  they  are 
tender  strain  off  the  water  and  serve  them  with  melted  butter. 

BOILED  ONIONS,  WITH  BUTTER  OR  CREAM  SAUCE. 

No.  990. — Boil  the  Onions  in  the  same  manner  as  in  No.  989,  and 
when  tender  drain  off  the  water  and  add  three  spoonfuls  of  Butter 
or  Cream  sauce.  Let  them  simmer  for  five  minutes  and  then  serve. 

FRIED  ONIONS. 

No.  991. — Peel  three  or  four  Onions,  cut  off  the  roots  and  stems 
slice  them  crosswise  and  with  the  finger  detach  the  rings.  Season 
with  salt,  flour  them  and  mix  them  well  together.  Put  them  in  a 
colander  and  shake  off  the  superfluous  flour.  Then  fry  them  in  hot 
lard,  and  when  they  are  nicely  colored,  drain  them  on  a  napkin 
and  serve. 

SMOTHERED    ONIONS. 

No.  992. — Peel  half  a  dozen  Onions,  cut  thorn  in  halves,  trim  oft 
the  ends,  slice  them  finely  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  put  them  on  a  slow  fire  to 
simmer  (stirring  them  occasionally)  and  when  lightly  colored  drain 
off  the  butter  and  serve  them  as  needed. 

GLAZED  ONIONS. 

No.  993. — Peel  two  dozen  small  white  Onions  of  equal  size,  and 
be  careful  not  to  cut  the  tops  or  roots  too  much,  or  they  will  come 
apart  when  they  are  being  cooked.  Put  them,  in  a  flat  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and  sprinkle  them  with  a 
little  powdered  sugar.  Moisten  them,  to  cover,  with  broth  (or 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  231 

water) ,  put  them  on  a  brisk  fire  and  when  the  moisture  is  half 
reduced,  set  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  occasionally  shaking  them 
over.  When  the  moisture  is  reduced  to  a  glaze  roll  the  Onions  in  it 
so  as  to  glaze  them  evenly,  and  use  them  as  needed. 

NOTE. — When  they  are  to  be  serve  1  with  a  sauce,  dish  up  the  Onions  when  they  are  cooked  and 
glazed,  and  aid  to  the  glaze  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce,  and  one  of  gravy.  Then  let  it 
boil  slowly,  skim  off  the  grease,  reduce  it  to  its  consistency  and  pour  it  over  the  Onions. 

STUFFED   ONIONS. 

No.  994. — Take  half  a  dozen  white  Onions  of  equal  size,  peel  them 
carefully,  but  do  no  not  cut  the  end  parts  too  deep.  Parboil  them 
for  ten  minutes  in  water  lightly  salted;  to  which  add  a  piece  of 
butter.  Drain  them,  and  then  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  When  cool 
scoop  out  the  center  of  each  Onion  and  fill  them  with  a  forced  meat 
of  veal  of  chicken,  into  which  add  some  cooked  fine  herbs.  Arrange 
the  Onions  in  a  buttered  flat  saucepan,  close  together,  and 
season  them  with  salt  and  a  little  sugar.  Cover  each  Onion  with  a 
thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  moisten  them  with  broth,  and  set  them  on  the 
fire.  When  it  boils  put  on  the  cover  and  set  the  pan  in  a  moderate 
oven.  When  cooked  dish  them  up,  strain  the  gravy  in  another 
saucepan  and  skim  off  the  grease.  Add  three  spoonfuls  of 
Espagnole  sauce  to  reduce  it  to  its  consistency,  and  serve  it  on  the 
dish  with  the  Onions. 

STUFFED   ONIONS,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  995. — Prepare  the  Onions  in  the  same  manner  as  in  No.  994, 
and  when  they  are  drained  and  cooled,  scoop  out  the  center  of  each 
one,  which  you  will  chop  finely,  and  add  enough  of  fresh  bread 
crumbs  to  give  a  nice  consistency.  Also  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
fresh  mushrooms  finely  chopped,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  fine 
herbs,  reduced  with  a  little  Espagnole  sauce,  and  a  little  fine 
chopped  parsley,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  the  whole 
well  together  and  stuff  the  Onions  with  it.  Arrange  them  in  a  but- 
tered flat  saucepan,  sprinkle  some  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and  put 
a  small  piece  of  butter  on  top  of  each  one.  Then  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  nicely  browned. 

PUREE   OF   ONIONS   (BROWN   SOUBISE). 

No.  996. — Peel  one  dozen  large  red  Onions,  cut  them  in  halves, 
trim  off  the  ends  and  slice  them  fine.  Then  parboil  them  for  two 
minutes,  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them  dry.  Then 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  to  a 


232  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

light  brown,  stirring  them  occasionally  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Then 
drain  off  the  butter  and  moisten  them  with  broth  enough  to  have 
them  well  covered.  When  the  broth  is  reduced  add  a  pint  of 
Espagnole  sauce  and  let  it  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Then  rub  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  the  puree  in  a  saucepan.  Season  it  to 
taste. 

PUREE   OF   ONIONS    (WHITE   SOUBISE). 

No.  997. — Peel  one  dozen  large  white  Onions,  cut  them  in  halves, 
trim  off  the  ends,  slice  them  finely,  and  parboil  them  for  two  min- 
utes. Then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  drain  them  and  dry  them 
well  on  a  towel.  Then  put  them  in  a  well  buttered  saucepan  and 
season  with  salt,  nutmeg,  a  little  sugar,  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper. 
Cover  them  with  a  buttered  white  paper.  Then  cover  the  saucepan 
and  set  it  in  a  slow  oven  to  have  the  Onions  well  cooked  (being 
careful  not  to  let  them  get  colored).  When  they  are  cooked  tender 
put  them  in  another  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  Cream  sauce  (be  very 
careful,  as  they  often  get  a  little  browned  on  the  bottom) .  Mix  them 
well  together  and  rub  the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  it 
back  in  the  saucepan  to  keep  warm,  and  before  serving  add  a  piece 
of  butter. 

BROWN   ONION   SAUCE. 

No.  998. — Prepare  two  or  three  Onions  in  the  same  manner  as  in 
No.  992,  and  when  they  are  cooked  drain  off  the  butter,  add  four 
spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce,  and  let  it  cook  for  ten  minutes. 

NOTE. — If  this  sauce  is  wanted  in  a  hurry  prepare  them  as  follows:  Toss  the  Onions  lightly  in 
butter  until  nicely  browned.  Then  drain  off  the  butter,  add  the  sauce  and  let  them  simmer  for 
fifteen  minutes. 

WHITE   ONION   SAUCE. 

No.  999. — When  the  soubise  is  to  be  used  for  sauce,  prepare  it  in 
the  same  manner  as  in  No.  997,  and  add  a  little  chicken  broth  with 
a  few  drops  of  glaze  to  thin  it  out  a  little  more. 

BROWN   ONION  SAUCE — PIQUANT. 

No.  1000. — Chop  six  Red  Onions  finely,  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  a  wine-glass- 
fiil  of  vinegar  and  let  it  reduce  to  one  third.  Then  add  one  spoon- 
ful of  mustard  flour,  mix  it  well,  and  then,  while  stirring,  add  in 
slowly  three  spoonfuls  of  veal  gravy  and  four  of  Espagnole  sauce. 
Let  it  boil  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  keep  it  warm  for  use. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE,  233 

ONIONS  FOE  GARNITURE. 

No.  1001. — Onions  for  garniture  are  prepared  in  various  ways. 
The  small  white  or  button  Onion  is  used  most.  "When  they  are 
peeled,  parboil  them  for  five  minutes  and  drain  them  on  a  napkin. 
Then  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  a  pinch  of 
sugar  and  a  little  salt,  and  moisten  them  to  cover  with  white  broth. 
Set  them  in  a  moderate  oven  to  glaze,  tossing  them  over  occasionally, 
so  they  will  glaze  evenly.  These  Onions  are  used  with  stews,  beef 
a  la  mode,  and  for  mixed  vegetable  garnitures.  For  large  garni- 
tures the  stuffed  Onions  may  be  used.  For  chops  or  small 
entrees  the  white  or  brown  puree  of  Onions  soubise  is  used. 
Small  Onions,  when  plainly  boiled  aud  tossed  over  the  fire  (with  the 
addition  of  a  little  Cream  or  Allemande  sauce),  may  also  be  used. 

SMALL   ONIONS  BAKED  FOR    GARNITURE,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1002. — Select  two  dozen  small  white  Onions  of  equal  size. 
Put  them  in  a  pan  and  bake  them  without  peeling.  When  they  are 
three-quarters  done,  peel  and  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  half 
a  wine-glassful  of  vinegar.  .Reduce  this,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
mustard  flour.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and  add 
three  spoonfuls  of  veal  gravy  and  six  of  Espagnole  sauce.  Let  them 
simmer  slowly  until  cooked. 

ONION  GRAVY. 

,(} 

No.  1003. — Cut  four  Onions  in  halves  and  slice  them  finely.  Then 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  fry  them  lightly  and 
add  a  pint  of  veal  gravy.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when 
it  isAxeduced  to  one-third,  skim  off  the  grease  and  strain  the  gravy 
through  a  towel. 

ONION  GRAVY   WITH   SAGE. 

No.  1004. — Chop  three  Onions  finely  with  one  dozen  green  sage 
leaves,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Cover  the 
saucepan,  and  let  them  simmer  slowly.  When  the  Onions  are  nearly 
cooked  (without  being  browned),  add  one  pint  of  veal  gravy,  and 
when  it  is  reduced  to  one-third  skim  off  the  grease  and  strain  the 
gravy  through  a  towel. 

NOTE.— These  gravies  are  used  as  an  essence  that  is  frequently  added  to  the  gravy  of  Roast  Fowl 
or  Game. 

ONION    JUICE. 

No.  1005. — Peel  the  Onion  and  grate  it  with  pressure  on  a  grater 
into  an  earthern  bowl,  or  slice  the  Onion  finely,  put  it  in  a  towe], 


234  HARDEB'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

and  press  the  juice  into  an  earthen  bowl.     This  is  used  in  making 
green  salads,  and  is  preferred  by  many  who  do  not  like  raw  Onions. 

ONIONS   CHOPPED,    FOR   FINE   HERBS,    ETC. 

No.  1006. — Onions  should  never  be  chopped  (as  would  be  im- 
plied by  the  term  chop),  but  should  be  finely  cut  with  a  knife. 
"When  the  Onions  are  peeled,  cut  them  in  halves,  take  one  part  and 
slice  it  finely  without  detaching  the  pieces;  then  slice  it  the  same 
way  crosswise;  then  cut  straight  down.  In  this  way  you  can  make 
the  pieces  of  any  desired  size,  and  will  always  have  them  uniform 
and  perfectly  square.  If  chopped  Onions  are  to  be  kept  for  some 
time,  dip  them  in  boiling  water  for  one  minute,  then  immerse  them 
in  cold  water,  drain  them  on  a  towel,  and  wring  the  moisture  from 
them.  In  this  manner,  the  Onions  will  remain  white.  If  treated 
differently,  they  will  soon  turn  black. 

NEW   GREEN   ONIONS   FOR   RELISH. 

No.  1007. — Remove  the  outer  skin,  trim  off  the  tops,  wash  them 
in  cold  water,  then  drain  and  serve  them  plain,  or  slice  them. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  oil.  Serve  them  in  relish 
dishes,  the  same  as  cucumbers. 

ONION  PEELINGS,    THEIR  USE. 

No.  1008. — The  Bed  Onion  peeling  is  used  for  coloring  Easter 
eggs.  Wash  the  eggs  clean  and  dry  them  with  a  towel,  being 
careful  not  to  crack  them.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of 
the  onion  peeling,  add  cold  water  to  cover  them,  and  set  them  on 
the  fire  to  boil  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Then  take  them  off  of  the 
fire,  and  when  cold,  take  them  out.  Wipe  them  with  a  towel,  on 
which  put  a  few  drops  of  oil,  and  it  will  give  them  a  glossy  appear- 
ance. 

ONION  SOUP. 

No.  1009. — Peel  and  trim  the  ends  of  three  medium  sized  Onions, 
cut  them  in  halves,  and  slice  them  finely.  Then  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  to  a  light  brown  color. 
Then  add  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  let  it  cook  for  five  minutes, 
while  stirring  it,  and  add  in  slowly  three  pints  of  hot  broth  or  water. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Have  ready  in  a  soup  tureen,  half  a  dozen  small  pieces  of 
toasted  bread.  Lay  a  thin  slice  of  fresh  butter  on  each  piece,  pou-r 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  235 

the  soup  into  the  tureen  and  cover  it,  to  keep  it  hot.     Serve  with 
it  a  plate  of  grated  Gruyere  or  Parmesan  cheese. 

NOTE.— The  Flour  may  be  omitted  and  the  thin  layers  of  butter  on  the  toast  may  be  substituted 
by  thin  layers  of  Gruyere  (Swiss)  Cheese. 

ONION   SOUP,    STANISLAUS   STYLE. 

No.  1010. — Butter  the  crusts  of  three  or  four  French  rolls,  and 
set  them  in  an  oven  to  get  crisp.  Cut  off  the  end  parts  of  four 
medium  sized  white  Onions,  peel  them,  cut  them  in  halves  and  slice 
them  finely.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
and  fry  them  l:ghtly,  stirring  them  well  to  have  them  all  nicely 
browned.  Then  add  three  pints  of  hot  water,  season  it  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  also  add  the  bread  crusts.  Cover  the  saucepan, 
and  when  it  boils,  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour;  then 
serve. 

ONION   SOUP,   WITH   MILK. 

No.  1011. — Chop  five  medium  sized  Onions  finely  and  put  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Let  them  cook  slowly  until 
lightly  colored.  Then  add  one  glassful  of  hot  water  and  let  them 
cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  after  which  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  put  the  puree  back  in  a  saucepan  with  three  pints  of  boiling 
milk.  Set  it  on  the  fire,  stir  it  until  it  boils,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Put  in  a  soup  tureen  some  small  pieces  of  toasted 
bread,  pour  the  soup  over  it,  cover  the  tureen  and  serve  it  hot. 

NOTE.— If  the  soup  is  to  be  sweetened  with  sugar  omit  the  salt  and  pepper;  use  half  milk  and 
half  cream  and  butter  the  toast  lightly. 

SOUP-PUREE   OF   ONIONS,    BAVARIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1012. — Peel  six  large  white  Onions,  slice  them  finely,  parboil 
them  for  two  minutes,  immerse  them  in  cold  water  and  dry  them  on 
a  towel.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and 
let  them  simmer  until  they  are  tender  (not  letting  them  get  browned). 
Then  drain  off  the  butter,  add  a  pint  of  Cream  sauce  and  season 
with  salt,  a  little  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper.  Mix  the  whole 
well  together  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  back  into  the 
saucepan  and  add  two  quarts  of  thickened  chicken  or  veal  broth. 
Set  it  on  the  fire,  stir  it  until  it  boils  and  then  let  it  cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes.  Skim  it  well,  and  before  serving  add  a  piece  of 
butter  and  a  large  glassful  of  cream,  in  which  dilute  the  yolks  of 
six  raw  eggs.  Stir  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  be  care- 
ful not  to  let  it  boil  again.  Serve  it  with  a  small  plate  of  fried 
bread  crumbs. 


236  HAEDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

SOUP-PUREE  OF  ONIONS,  BRETONNB  STYLE. 

No.  1013. — Peel  six  large  red  Onions  and  slice  them  finely.  Put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  let  them  cook  slowly 
until  they  are  nicely  browned.  Then  add  a  pint  of  beef  broth  and 
reduce  it  to  a  glaze,  after  which  add  three  quarts  of  broth,  in  which 
you  have  cooked  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  split  peas.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  it  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  skim 
it  well,  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan 
to  keep  warm.  If  necessary,  add  a  little  more  broth.  Before 
serving,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  mix  it  well,  and  serve  with  it  some 
small  fried  bread  crumbs  on  a  plate. 

ONION  CUSTARD   FOR   GARNITURE   OF   SOUPS. 

No.  1014. — Put  in  an  earthen  bowl  half  a  pint  of  puree  of  white 
Onions  (soubise),  for  the  preparation  of  which  see  No.  997.  Dilute 
this  with  four  spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  add  two  raw  eggs  and  the 
yolks  of  ten  raw  eggs.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg.  Mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  strain  it  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Butter  some  small  fancy  shaped  tartlet  moulds  and  fill  them 
with  this  preparation.  Then  place  the  moulds  in  a  pan  containing 
hot  water  (being  careful  not  to  let  any  of  the  water  get  into  the 
moulds).  Set  them  in  a  moderate  oven  to  cook,  but  do  not  let  them 
get  browned.  When  they  are  cooked,  turn  them  out  of  the  moulds 
and  let  them  get  cold.  Use  them  as  required  and  directed  in  the 
Book  on  Soups. 

ONION  SOUP,    GARBURE. 

No.  1015. — Cut  the  ends  off  of  one  dozen  medium  sized  white 
Onions,  peel  them  and  slice  them  in  pieces  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
thick.  Put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  some  clarified  butter  and 
fry  them  to  a  light  brown  color.  Put  in  a  deep  baking  dish  a  layer 
of  thin  slices  of  toasted  bread  and  on  this  a  layer  of  Onions,  season- 
ing them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  put  another  layer  of  toast 
with  Onions  on  it,  continuing  in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Moisten  it  with  broth  and  set  it  in  the  oven  to  gratinate.  Serve 
with  this  a  soup  tureen  of  good  beef  broth. 

NOTE. — Care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  the  Onions  get  burnt  or  scorched,  or  they  will  give  the 
garbure  a  bitter  taste. 

PICKLED   ONIONS. 

No.  1016. — Peel  as  many  small  white  Onions  as  you  desire  bo 
pickle,  having  them  as  equal  in  size  as  possible  (when  peeling  them 
be  very  careful  not  to  cut  into  them).  Put  them  into  a  strong  brine 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  237 

for  four  or  five  days,  then  drain  them  and  pour  cold  water  over 
them  to  refresh  them.  Then  parboil  them  for  ten  minutes  and  im- 
merse them  in  cold  water,  after  which  dry  them  on  a  towel.  Pick 
the  pieces  that  are  likely  to  come  off  carefully  from  the  Onions. 
Then  put  the  Onions  in  glass  jars,  with  a  few  pepper-corns  and  some 
blades  of  mace,  and  fill  the  bottles  (so  as  to  cover  the  Onions)  with 
boiled  wine  or  cider  vinegar.  When  cold  cork  them  tightly. 

NOTE. — In  boiling  the  vinegar  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  eacK  gallon. 
PICKLED   ONIONS    (ANOTHER   WAY). 

No.  1017. — Peel  as  many  small  white  Onions  as  you  desire  to 
pickle,  having  them  as  equal  in  size  as  possible  (be  careful  not  to 
cut  into  them  while  peeling).  Parboil  them  in  plenty  of  water  for 
five  minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  after  which  drain 
and  dry  them  on  a  towel.  Remove  the  pieces  that  are  likely  to 
come  off  and  put  the  Onions  in  an  earthen  bowl.  Cover  them  with 
cold  boiled  white  wine  vinegar,  and  on  the  following  day  drain  off 
the  vinegar  and  put  the  Onions  in  glass  jars,  with  a  little  salt  and 
one  bay  leaf  in  each  jar.  Then  boil  the  vinegar  that  you  drained 
from  the  Onions,  skim  it  well,  and  when  it  is  cold  pour  it  over  them, 
to  cover,  and  hermetically  seal  the  jars.  Keep  them  in  a  cool 
place. 

ONION  VINEGAE. 

No.  1018. — Peel  and  slice  finely  ten  large  white  fresh  Onions,  put 
them  in  an  earthen  jar  and  add  a  soup-spoonful  of  salt  and  one  of 
sugar.  Boil  two  quarts  of  wine  vinegar  and  pour  it  over  the  Onions 
while  it  is  hot.  Cover  and  set  them  away,  and  at  the  expiration  of 
two  weeks  strain  and  filter  the  vinegar.  Then  pour  it  into  bottles, 
adding  a  small  sprig  of  tarragon  to  each  bottle.  Cork  the  bottles 
tightly  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place. 


CXLII. 


French  ORACH    OR    MOUNTAIN    SPINACH.  German 

Arroche.  Orrach. 

No.  1019. — Orach  is  a  hardy  annual  plant.  The  leaves  are 
variously  shaped,  somewhat  oblong,  comparatively  thin  and  slightly 
aciduous  to  the  taste.  They  are  prepared  for  the  table  in  the 


238  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

same  way  as  spinach  or  sorrel,  and  are  generally  mixed  with  sorrel 
when  used  in  soups  or  purees,  to  reduce  the  acidity.  Orach  is  best 
when  grown  in  a  rich,  deep  and  moist  soil,  and  is  cultivated  in  the 
same  manner  as  spinach. 

GREEN  ORACH. 

No.  1020. — This  variety  grows  low  and  has  leaves  of  a  dark  green 
color,  broad,  wrinkled,  slightly  toothed  and  bluntly  pointed. 

LURID   ORACH. 

No.  1021. — The  leaves  are  of  a  pale,  purple  color  tinged  with 
dark  green,  being  slightly  wrinkled,  pointed  and  toothed  on  the 
borders  toward  the  base,  which  forms  two  acute  angles. 

PURPLE  ORACH. 

No.  1022. — The  leaves  have  a  dull,  dark  purple  color  and  are 
more  wrinkled  and  deeper  toothed  than  the  other  sorts.  They 
change  to  a  green  color  when  boiled. 

RED   ORACH. 

No.  1023. ' — The  leaves  are  oblong  heart-shaped,  somewhat  wrink- 
led and  slightly  toothed  on  the  margin.  Its  upper  surface  is  of  a 
very  dark  dingy  purple  color.  They  change  to  green  when  boiled. 

RED  STALKED  GREEN  ORACH. 

No.  1024. — The  leaves  are  dark  green,  tinged  with  a  dull  brown, 
are  wrinkled  and  toothed,  somewhat  curled  and  of  a  tall  growth. 

RED  STALKED  WHITE  ORACH. 

No.  1025. — This  variet}7  is  of  a  dwarfish  growth,  with  heart-shaped 
leaves  of  a  yellowish  green  tinged  with  brown,  the  margins  being 
stained  with  purple. 

WHITE   ORACH. 

No.  1026. — White  Orach  is  of  comparatively  low  growth.  The 
leaves  are  pale  green  or  yellowish  green  in  color,  wrinkled,  with 
long  tapering  points,  plainly  toothed  towards  the  base  which  forms 
two  acute  angles. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  239 


ARTICLE  CXLIII 


French  ORRIS,    OR   IRIS   ROOT.  German 

Iris,  or  Fleur  de  Lis.  Irris. 

No.  1027. — This  is  a  genus  of  bulbous  or  tuberous  rooted  plants, 
the  roots  of  which  have  an  agreeable  odor,  resembling  that  of  violets. 
The  best  variety  comes  from  Florence,  Italy.  It  is  easily  distin- 
guished by  its  large  white  roots.  As  it  will  keep  long  and  retains, 
its  flavor,  it  is  substituted  for  the  violet,  which  loses  its  flavor  in  a 
short  time.  The  root,  when  ground  into  a  flour,  is  extensively  used 
by  pastry  cooks  for  various  preparations. 


ARTICLE  CXLIV. 


OXALIS   (TUBEROUS   ROOTED   WOOD   SORREL). 

Oxalis.  Oxalis 

No.  1028. — This  is  a  perennial  plant  that  is  cultivated  in  Mexico- 
and  the  Southern  part  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  stalk  is  one  foot, 
in  height,  with  smooth  and  branching  leaves,  four  together.  The 
leaflets  are  wedge-shaped,  of  a  pale  yellowish-green  color,  the  upper 
surface  being  marked  by  two  brownish  lines.  The  flowers  are  of  a 
carmine  rose  color,  stained  with  green  at  the  base  of  the  petals. 
The  roots  are  fusiform,  from  three  to  four  inches  long  and  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  diameter.  They  are  white  and  fleshy,  and  are  sur- 
mounted with  numerous  small  scales  or  bulbs,  which  serve  for 
propagation.  The  roots  are  boiled  and  served  with  Cream  or  Butter 
sauce.  The  young  leaves  and  flowers,  which  have  a  pleasant  acid 
taste,  are  used  as  salad. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1029. — The  plant  succeeds  best  in  rich,  warm,  mellow  soil. 
Plant  them  in  May,  six  inches  apart  in  drills  that  are  fifteen  inches 
wide.  Let  them  remain  in  the  ground  until  in  danger  of  freezing, 
or  until  November.  Pack  them  in  dry  sand  and  keep  them  in  the 
cellar  for  winter  use. 


240  HABDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


CXLV. 


French  PAK-CHOI.  German 

Pak  Choi.  Pakchoi. 

No.  1030. — Pak-Choi  is  an  annual  plant,  a  native  of  China.  The 
root  leaves  are  oval,  regular,  smooth  and  deep  green,  with  long, 
naked,  fleshy,  white  stems,  somewhat  similar  to  those  of  the  Swiss- 
chard  or  leaf  beets.  The  leaves  are  eaten  boiled,  like  Cabbage, 
but  are  much  more  tender  and  of  a  more  agreeable  flavor.  It  is 
sown  in  April  in  hills  or  drills,  and  should  be  thinned  out  to  twelve 
inches  apart. 


CXLVI. 


PALMATE-LEAVED  RHUBARB. 

Rhubarbe  des  Moines.  Rhaliarber. 

No.  1031. — This  species  is  readily  distinguished  by  its  deeply 
divided  or  palmate  leaves,  and  is  the  variety  from  which  the  dried 
root  chiefly  used  in  medicine,  is  obtained.  The  roots  are  thick  and 
succulent,  with  a  brownish  skin  and  light  yellow  flesh,  streaked  or 
variegated  with  red.  The  Rhubarb  from  Turkey  is  generally 
preferred,  but  its  superiority  is,  to  a  great  degree,  attributable  to 
the  manner  in  which  it  is  dried.  Like  the  Pie  Ehubarb,  it  requires 
a  deep,  rich  soil,  and  will  not  be  ready  for  taking  up  until  five  years 
old. 


ARTICLE 


PALM  CABBAGE. 

Choux  Palmisle.  Palm  Kohl. 

No.  1032. — This  variety  of  Cabbage  is  very  popular  in  Holland, 
but  in  this  country  it  is  only  grown  in  gardens.  "When  young  it  is 
very  tender,  and  is  prepared  the  same  as  other  green  cabbage. 
The  plant  grows  to  a  height  of  three  feet.  The  leaves  are  straight, 
and  of  a  dark  green  color,  with  strong  ribs  resembling  those  of  palm 
leaves,  from  which  it  takes  its  name. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  241 


ARTICLE 


Frcucli  PARSLEY.  German 

Persil.  Petersilie. 

No.  1033. — Parsley  is  one  of  the  most  useful  vegetables.  Its 
leaves  are  used  in  cookery  for  garnishing  and  flavoring  purposes, 
and  its  roots  are  used  in  medicine  as  an  aperient.  It  is  a  native  of 
Sardinia,  but  flourishes  in  almost  every  part  of  the  world.  It  is  an 
umbelliferous  plant  having  a  biennial  root,  with  an  annual,  round, 
furrowed,  jointed,  erect,  branching  stem,  about  two  feet  in  height. 
All  parts  of  the  plant  contain  a  volatile  oil,  to  which  it  owes  its 
odor  and  mainly  its  taste.  It  excites  the  appetite  and  accelerates 
digestion.  There  are  six  varieties. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1034. — The  seed  is  slow  in  germinating,  and  should  be  sown 
early  in  spring,  in  rich,  mellow  soil.  When  the  plants  are  two 
inches  high  transplant  them.  The  oftener  they  are  transplanted 
and  cut  back  the  finer  and  more  perfect  the  leaves  will  be.  Hand- 
some foliage  is  formed  when  the  plants  are  well  grown. 

FINE   TRIPLED   CURLED. 

No.  1035. — This  is  a  fine  dwarfish  curled  variety,  which,  when 
well  grown,  resembles  a  tuft  of  finely  curled  moss.  It  is  hardy  and 
slow  in  running  to  seed,  but  is  liable  to  degenerate,  as  it  constantly 
tends  to  increase  in  size  and  to  become  less  curled. 

CARTER'S  FERN  LEAVED. 

No.  1036. — A  variety  of  beautiful  form  and  color,  which  is  well 
adapted  for  garnishing.  It  is  an  ornamental  garden  plant. 

PLAIN   PARSLEY. 

No.  1037. — This  kind  is  hardier  than  the  curled  varieties;  is  good 
for  flavoring,  but  has  plain  leaves. 

HAMBURG,    OR   TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No.  1038. — This  is  a  fleshy,  rooted  variety,  the  roots  of  which  are 
used  for  flavoring  soups. 
16 


242  HAEDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKEEY. 

FAGGOT  OF  PAESLEY. 

No.  1039. — A  faggot  of  Parsley  generally  consists  of  a  bunch  of 
green  Parsley,  in  the  center  of  which  a  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme, 
and  a  few  grains  of  cloves  are  put,  the  bunch  being  tied  together 
with  a  string.  It  is  used  for  flavoring  soups,  stews,  etc.  The  edges 
should  always  be  nicely  trimmed.  Celery  and  leeks  are  sometimes 
added  to  the  faggot. 

CHOPPED   PAESLEY. 

No.  1040. — Take  fresh  Parsley  leaves,  wash  them  in  cold  water 
and  dry  them  on  a  towel.  Chop  them  finely  on  a  clean  board,  then 
put  the  Parsley  in  a  towel  and  wring  out  all  of  the  moisture.  Then 
put  it  in  a  bowl  and  keep  it  ready  for  use.  When  chopped  Parsley 
is  used  for  sauces  it  should  be  dipped  in  boiling  water  for  a  minute, 
then  immersed  in  cold  water  and  wrung  dry  in  a  towel.  By  doing 
this  it  will  retain  its  green  color. 

FEIED   PAES   EY  FOE   GAENISHING. 

No.  1041. — Pick  and  wash  a  bunch  of  Parsley  and  dry  it  in  a 
towel.  Have  some  hot  lard  or  grease  in  a  frying-pan  on  the  fire, 
and  put  the  Parsley  into  it.  As  soon  as  it  is  crisp,  take  it  out  and 
drain  it  on  a  napkin.  Care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  lard  or 
grease  very  hot,  as  one  minute  is  sufficient  to  fry  the  Parsley, 
which,  if  fried  longer,  will  turn  to  a  dark  brown  color.  If  the 
Parsley  is  not  fresh,  it  will  assume  the  same  color. 

PAESLEY  FOE   GAENISHING. 

No.  1042. — Take  one  bunch  of  curled  Parsley,  wash  it  in  cold 
water,  drain  it  and  put  it  in  a  bowl  with  a  piece  of  ice.  When  Pars- 
ley remains  in  water  too  long,  it  acquires  a  bad  odor.  When  gar- 
nishing dishes,  which  are  to  be  covered  and  have  to  remain  for 
some  time  before  serving,  it  is  best  to  use  fried  Parsley.  Fresh 
Parsley  is  best  as  a  garniture  for  cold  dishes  of  meat.  Parsley 
stems  are  cut  two  inches  long  and  put  into  croquettes,  when 
made  in  pear-shape,  to  imitate  pear  stems. 


CXLIX. 


French  PARSNIPS.  German 

Panais.  Pastinake. 

No.  1043. — The  Parsnip  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant  that  is  much 
cultivated  in  this  country.     The  roots  are  considered  healthful  and 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  243 

are  esteemed  for  their  delicate  and  pleasant  flavor.     They  are  used 
as  a  vegetable  and  as  an  ingredient  in  soups. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1044. — Parsnips  succeed  best  in  a  deep,  free,  rich  soil.  That 
which  has  been  heavily  manured  for  a  previous  crop  should  be 
selected.  Sow  them  in  drills  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  apart, 
as  early  in  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  found  in  fair  working  con- 
dition. When  the  plants  are  about  two  inches  high  thin  them  out 
to  six  or  eight  inches  apart.  The  roots  are  hardy  and  improve  by 
remaining  in  the  ground  through  the  winter. 

LONG   SMOOTH   YELLOW. 

No.  1045. — The  roots  are  oblong,  ending  somewhat  abruptly  with 
a  small  top  root.  It  grows  mostly  below  the  surface,  has  a  very 
smooth  clear  skin,  and  is  easily  distinguished  by  the  leaves  arising 
from  a  cavity  on  the  top  or  crown  of  the  root. 

LONG  WHITE   DUTCH. 

No.  1046. — The  roots  are  very  long,  white,  smooth,  tender,  sugary, 
and  most  excellently  flavored,  being  very  hardy,  and  will  keep 
through  the  winter  without  protection. 

THE   STUDENT. 

No.  1047. — A  finely  flavored  variety,  especially  for  table  use. 

SHOET  BOUND   FKENCH. 

No.  1048. — One  of  the  earliest  varieties. 

PARSNIPS,    WITH   BUTTER   SAUCE. 

No.  1049. — Scrape  the  Parsnips  well,  then  cut  them  in  pieces 
two  inches  long  and  slice  them  not  too  thin.  Put  them  in  a  pan 
with  cold  acidulated  water.  Have  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  some 
boiling  water.  Add  to  it  a  little  vinegar  and  salt,  the  Parsnips  and 
a  piece  of  butter,  and  cook  them  on  a  brisk  fire  until  tender;  then 
drain  them  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan.  Add  Butter  sauce, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  toss  them  well  together  and  serve. 


244  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

FRIED  PARSNIPS. 

.No.  1050. — Prepare  the  Parsnips  in  the  same  manner  as  in  No. 
1049,  and  when  they  are  cooked  drain  them  and  put  them  in  a 
bowl.  Season  them  and  add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley  or  chervil 
and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  "When  ready  for  use  dip  them  in  a 
light  batter  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard.  Serve  them  on  a  napkin  and 
garnish  them  with  fried  parsley. 

NOTE.— When  Parsnips  are  to  be  cooked  and  kept  for  a  day  or  two  add  a  whiie  thickening  -when 
the  water  boils,  and  when  the  Parsnips  are  cooked,  pour  them  into  a  pan  or  an  earthern  jar  and 
cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover.  Use  them  as  needed. 

MASHED    PARSNIPS. 

No.  1051. — Scrape  and  wash  the  Parsnips,  cut  them  in  small 
pieces,  boil  them  in  water  lightly  salted,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  and 
when  they  are  cooked  drain  them.  Remove  the  fibrous  parts  and 
rub  the  Parsnips  through  a  fine  colander.  Put  them  back  in  the 
saucepan,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  cream,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  warm  them  thoroughly  while  stirring. 

PARSNIP   FRITTERS. 

No.  1052. — Prepare  the  Parsnips  as  in  No.  1051,  and  when  rubbed 
through  the  colander  set  them  aside  to  cool,  and  to  each  pound  of 
mashed  Parsnips  add  eight  well  beaten  raw  eggs.  Mix  the  eggs 
and  Parsnips  well  together  and  add  flour  enough  to  make  the  whole 
into  a  light  batter.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  and  serve  them  on  a 
napkin. 


ARTICT.K 


French  PATIENCE.  Gcrnmii 

Patience.  Gartenampfer . 

No  1053. — A  hardy  perennkil  plant,  not  cultivated  much  in  this 
country.  When  fully  developed  it  is  from  four  to  five  feet  high. 
The  leaves,  which  are  large,  long  and  broad  pointed,  are  more 
succulent  and  tender,  and  attain  a  much  larger  size,  when  the  flow- 
ering shoots  are  cut  off  as  they  make  their  appearance.  The  plant 
is  hardy,  and  if  cut  over  regularly  will  continue  healthy  and 
productive  for  a  few  years.  The  leaves  are  used  the  same  as. 
spinach,  and  are  put  forth  quite  early  in  spring.  They  should  be. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  245 

used  when  young  and  tender  and  mixed  with  sorrel.  Patience  Dock 
is  much  used  by  the  Swedes,  prepared  in  this  manner,  and  is  much 
esteemed  in  their  country. 


CLI. 


Trench  PEA-NUT.  German 

Aractiis.  Erdnus. 

No.  1054. — The  Pea-nut  is  an  annual  plant,  a  native  of  Central 
America  and  Africa.  The  stem,  when  full  grown,  is  about  fourteen 
inches  in  height.  The  leaves  are  primate,  with  four  leaflets,  and  a 
leafy,  emarginate  appendage  at  the  base  of  the  petals.  The  fruit 
or  pod  is  of  an  oblong  form,  often  contracted  at  the  middle,  but 
sometimes  of  bottle  form,  reticulated,  and  of  a  yellowish  color. 
The  kernels,  of  which  the  pod  contains  from  one  to  three,  are 
oblong,  quite  white,  and  are  enclosed  in  a  thin  brown  skin  or 
pellicule.  A  remarkal^le  peculiarity  of  this  plant  is  that  the  lower 
blossoms  alone  produce  the  fruit.  After  the  decay  of  the  petals 
the  ovaries  insinuate  themselves  into  the  ground,  beneath  which  at 
a  depth  of  several  inches,  the  fruit  is  afterwards  perfected.  They 
are  eaten  roasted,  and  are  used  by  confectioners,  and  for  culinary 
purposes  as  a  substitute  for  almonds. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  10-35. — The  Pea-nut  succeeds  well  only  in  warm  climates. 
Plant  them  as  early  as  the  weather  becomes  suitable,  in  a  warm, 
light,  loamy  soil,  deeply  ploughed  and  pulverized,  in  rows  a  foot 
apart.  In  planting,  the  Pea-nut  should  be  unbroken  in  the  pod,  and 
as  soon  as  the  flower  appears  the  vines  are  earthed  lip  from  time  to 
time,  so  as  to  keep  them  chiefly  within  the  ground. 

AFRICAN  PEA-NUT. 

No.  1056. — A  comparatively  small,  smooth,  and  regularly  formed 
sort.  The  shell  is  thin,  usually  enclosing  two  kernels. 

WILMINGTON   PEA-NUT. 

No.  1057. — Similar  to  the  African.  The  pods,  however,  are 
longer,  and  the  shell  thicker  and  paler.  They  enclose  two  or  three 
kernels.  They  are  cultivated  largely  in  the  Southern  States. 


246  BARBER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

TENNESSEE  PEA-NUT. 

No.  1058. — The  pods  are  large,  thick,  and  irregular  in  form,  and 
usually  contain  two  kernels.  This  variety  is  less  esteemed  than  the 
others. 


ARTICLE  CLII. 


French  PEAS.  German 

Pois.  Erbsen. 

No.  1059. — The  Pea  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  and  its  cultiva- 
tion is  almost  universal.  The  green  Pea  is  a  delicious  vegeta- 
ble, and  is  highly  esteemed  for  its  flavor  and  taste.  To  have  them 
in  perfection  they  must  be  plucked  before  they  mature,  and  should 
be  shelled  and  cooked  as  soon  after  as  possible,  as  they  lose  much 
of  their  tenderness  and  flavor  if  kept  for  any  length  of  time.  The 
fact  that  those  brought  from  a  distance  seldom  reach  the  markets 
in  their  perfect  state  is  an  objection  to  their  use,  which,  coupled 
with  the  knowledge  that  when  they  are  closely  packed  they  become 
intensely  overheated  and  are  rendered  devoid  of  taste  and  unwhole- 
some, deters  many  from  using  this  popular  vegetable.  When  sent 
from  a  distance  they  should  be  packed  in  open  baskets  (not  in  boxes, 
barrels  or  sacks),  and  laid  in  layers  two  inches  deep,  alternating 
with  layers  of  clean  straw.  There  are  hundreds  of  varieties,  but 
they  differ  very  little  from  each  other.  New  kinds  are  introduced 
annually,  each  claiming  to  be  superior  sorts,  but  the  locality  has  a 
great  deal  to  do  with  their  quality.  The  field  Peas  can  be  used  in 
their  dry  state  for  purees  and  soups,  but  they  are  not  as  easily 
digested  as  the  other  kinds. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1060. — Peas  come  earliest  to  maturity  in  light  rich  soil.  For 
a  general  crop  a  deep  loam  or  a  soil  strongly  inclining  to  clay  is  best. 
For  an  early  crop  decomposed  leaves  or  leaf  mold  should  be  used, 
or,  if  the  soil  is  very  poor,  stronger  manure  may  be  used.  For 
general  crops  a  good  dressing  should  be  applied,  and  for  the  dwarf 
growing  kinds  the  soil  cannot  be  too  rich.  When  grown  as  a 
maiket  crop  Peas  are  never  staked,  and  are  sown  in  single  rows 
two  or  three  inches  deep  and  from  two  to  three  feet  apart,  according 
to  variety  or  the  strength  of  the  soil.  When  grown  in  small 
quantities  for  private  use,  they  are  generally  sown  in  double  rows 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OP  TASTE.  247 

sis  or  eight  inches  apart,  and  the  tall  varieties  are  staked  up  with 
brush.  For  an  early  crop  sow  them  in  February,  March  or  April, 
according  to  latitude,  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  Make 
repeated  sowings  every  two  weeks  in  succession.  After  the  first  of 
June,  sowing  should  be  discontinued  until  the  middle  of  August, 
when  a  good  crop  may  sometimes  be  secured  by  sowing  an  early 
sort. 

EXTRA  EARLY  SORTS. 

THE     AMERICAN   WONDER. 

No.  1061. — A  highly  improved  variety,  with  stout  branching  vines 
that  grow  early,  about  nine  inches  high,  and  are  covered  with  long 
well  filled  pods.  The  Peas  are  of  the  best  quality. 

KENTISH    INVICTA. 

No.  1062. — A  round  blue  Pea,  about  two  feet  in  height,  with 
straight,  well  filled  pods.  It  is  the  earliest  of  the  blue  sorts,  and  is 
superior  in  flavor  to  any  of  the  white  varieties. 

LAXTON'S  ALPHA. 

No.  1063. — This  is  the  earliest  wrinkled  Pea  known,  and  is  about 
three  feet  in  height.  The  seeds  are  indented  and  wrinkled,  of  a 
light  blue  color  and  delicious  flavor.  A  good  variety. 

EARLY  TOM  THUMB. 

No.  1064. — The  seeds  are  small  and  round,  but  are  not  always  of 
good  quality. 

BLUE   PETER. 

No.  1065. — One  of  the  best  of  the  dwarf  varieties,  and  a  great 
producer.  The  seeds  are  large,  blue,  round  and  somewhat  wrinkled. 

EXTRA   EARLY. 

No.  1066. — This  variety  furnishes  Peas  as  early  as  any  variety. 
The  Peas  are  large  and  the  pods  continue  bearing  for  ten  days. 

EARLY  SORTS. 

LITTLE    GEM. 

No.  1067. — A  desirable  dwarf,  green,  wrinkled  vaiiety,  about 
fifteen  inches  high.  In  its  green  state,  the  Peas  are  large  and 
sweet. 


248  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

PREMIUM  GREEN. 

No.  1068. — This  resembles  the  Little  Gem,  but  has  heavier  and 
more  prolific  vines  and  larger  pods.  They  fully  equal  the  later 
sorts  in  quality. 

M'LEAN  ADVANCER. 

No.  1069. — A  green  wrinkled  variety,  nearly  three  feet  high,  with 
long,  broad  pods,  which  are  well  filled.  Their  flavor  is  excellent 
and  they  are  considered  by  many  to  be  the  best  of  their  season. 

CARTER'S-  LITTLE  WONDER. 

No.  1070. — This  is  a  sweet,  wrinkled  Pea  about  two  feet  in 
height,  being  very  early  and  having  a  delicious  flavor. 

EARLY  PHILADELPHIA. 

No.  1071. — A  variety  that  is  in  demand  in  the  vicinity  of  Phila- 
delphia. It  is  prolific  and  of  very  good  flavor. 

DWARF  CHAMPION. 

No.  1072. — A  prolific  variety  of  good  quality  and  flavor.  The 
Peas  are  white,  shriveled  and  indented. 

LATE  SORTS. 

CHAMPION   OP   ENGLAND. 

No.  1073. — This  is  one  of  the  best  flavored  Peas,  being  equal  to 
any  in  quality  and  more  in  demand  than  other  varieties.  It  is  very 
productive,  and  from  four  to  five  feet  in  height.  The  seeds  are 
shriveled  and  of  a  whitish  green  color. 

LARGE  BLUE  IMPERIAL. 

No.  1074. — One  of  the  best  summer  varieties,  a  good  bearer,  very 
strong,  and  about  three  feet  high.  The  pods  are  large,  long,  pointed 
and  somewhat  flat,  and  contain  about  ten  large,  blue,  flattened 
Peas. 

LARGE   WHITE   MARROWFAT. 

No.  1075. — This  is  a  prolific  bearer,  of  strong  growth,  and  is 
about  five  feet  in  height.  It  is  cultivated  more  extensively  for 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  249 

summer  crop  than  any  other  variety.  The  pods  are  large,  round, 
lig-ht  colored,  and  well  filled,  with  large,  blue,  slightly  flattened 
Peas. 

DWARF    MARROWFAT. 

No.  1076. — This  variety  is  earlier  than  the  White  Marrowfat,  but 
is  similar  to  it  in  character  and  appearance,  except  in  its  dwarf 
growth.  It  will  not  require  bushing. 

•LARGE  RLACK-EYED    MARROWFAT. 

No.  1077. — A  prolific  and  excellent  mammoth  variety,  about  five 
feet  in  height,  with  large,  full  pods. 

YORKSHIRE   HERO. 

No.  1078. — The  vines  are  stout  and  about  two  feet  high,  bearing 
at  the  top  a  number  of  broad  pods  filled  with  large  Peas,  which 
keep  in  season  a  long  time,  and  do  not  become  hard.  They  are  of 
fine  quality  and  are  preferred  over  all  others  by  those  who  like  a 
marrow-like  Pea. 

EDIBLE  PODDED  SORTS. 

DWARF    GRAY   SUGAR. 

No.  1079. — This  is  an  early,  prolific  variety,  and  grows  about  two 
feet  in  height.  The  pods  are  broad,  flat  and  crooked,  containing 
about  six  Peas,  of  a  dark  brown  color,  that  are  large,  shriveled,  and 
indented. 

TALL    SUGAR. 

No.  1080. — This  variety  grows  about  five  feet  in  height,  is  very 
sweet  and  tender.  The  pods  and  Peas  are  eaten. 

FIELD    SORTS. 

No.  1081.— Of  the  many  Field  Sorts  the  Golden  Wine,  the  Crown, 
the  Parisian  Blue,  the  Creepers,  the  Common  White,  and  the  Com- 
mon Blue,  are  perhaps  the  best  varieties  in  cultivation.  In  their 
dry  state  they  are  used  in  soups,  purees,  etc. 

GREEN  PEAS,    ENGLISH    STYLE. 

No.  1082. — Have  two  gallons  of  boiling  water  in  a  saucepan  on  a 
brisk  fire,  and  add  to  it  five  pounds  of  shelled  green  Peas,  a  faggot 


250  HAKDEB'S  AMEEICAN  COOKERY. 

of  parsley  garnished  with  a  head  of  lettuce,  and  a  few  green  onions, 
and  season  it  with  a  little  salt.  Let  them  boil  until  tender,  then 
drain  them,  take  out  the  faggot  and  dish  up  the  Peas,  with  a  piece 
of  butter  in  the  middle  and  a  piece  on  top. 

NOTE.— A  sprig  of  mint  may  be  added  with  the  faggot,  or  some  finely  chopped  mint  may  be 
sprinkled  over  the  Peas.  This  is  merely  a  matter  a  taste. 

GEEEN   PEAS,    PARISIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1083. — Put  into  a  saucepan  five  pounds  of  green  Peas,  one 
quart  of  water  and  six  ounces  of  butter.  Put  the  pan  on  a  brisk 
fire,  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  head  of  lettuce  and  a 
few  green  onions.  Toss  them  over  occasionally,  and  when  cooked 
add  four  ounces  of  butter,  into  which  mix  two  spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Toss  the  Peas  well  over  until  the  butter  is  melted,  then  let  them 
cook  fifteen  minutes  longer,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little 
sugar.  Should  the  Peas  become  too  thick  add  a  little  hot  water. 

GREEN   PEAS,   FAMILY   STYLE. 

No.  1084. — Put  into  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  when 
it  is  melted,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  flour.  Mix  them  well  together, 
stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  let  it  cook  slowly  until  lightly 
colored.  Then  add  five  pounds  of  Peas,  and  in  two  or  three  minutes 
add  one  quart  of  boiling  water.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a 
pinch  of  sugar,  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  head 
of  lettuce.  When  the  Peas  are  cooked,  take  out  the  faggot  and  add 
one  cupful  of  cream  into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  three  raw  eggs. 
Toss  them  well  together,  not  letting  them  cook  any  more. 

GREEN   PEAS   WITH   CREAM,    SHARON   STYLE. 

No.  1085. — Peas  cooked  in  this  style  must  be  served  as  soon  as 
cooked  or  they  will  lose  their  delicacy. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  pounds  of  fresh  young  Peas,  a  tumbler 
of  cold  water,  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  head  of  lettuce,  into  which  tie 
a  sprig  of  green  thyme.  Cover  the  saucepan,  put  them  on  a  brisk 
fire  and  toss  them  over  occasionally.  When  they  are  cooked  take 
out  the  lettuce,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and 
add  a  cup  of  double  cream,  into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  two  raw 
eggs.  Toss  them  well  together  off  of  the  fire,  and  serve  with  small 
pieces  of  toasted  bread  around  the  dish. 

GREEN   PEAS   WITH   BACON. 

No.  1086. — Cut  into  small  square  pieces  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
lean  bacon  (previously  parboiled  for  two  minutes),  and  put  them 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  251 

into  a  saucepan.  Add  three  pounds  of  green  Peas  and  moisten 
with  a  quart  of  boiling  broth.  Set  the  pan  on  a  brisk  fire,  add  a 
faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  green  onions  and  a  head  of  lettuce  > 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  When  thor- 
oughly cooked,  take  out  the  faggot,  and  dish  them  up  with  braised 
lettuce  around  the  dish. 

GREEN  PEAS    FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  1087. — When  the  Peas  are.  cooked,  as  in  No.  1082,  immerse 
them  in  cold  water,  then  drain  them  and  set  them  aside,  covering 
them  with  a  napkin  until  ready  to  use.  When  ready  to  use  them, 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  until 
thoroughly  warmed,  and  when  serving  add  some  fine  chopped 
parsley. 

NOTE.— Cream,  Allemande,  or  Espagnole  sauce  may  be  added  if  desired. 

PUREE  OF  GREEN  PEAS,  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  1088. — Cook  two  pounds  of  Green  Peas  as  in  No.  1082. 
When  cooked  drain  them  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  four 
spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar.  Mix  them  well  together  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Put  the  puree  back  into  the  saucepan  to  keep  warm  and  before 
serving  add  a  piece  of  Butter. 

NOTE.— When  the  puree  is  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  it  in  a  flat  saucepan,  add  half  a  pint 
of  cream,  and  set  the  pan  on  a  brisk  fire  to  reduce  the  puree  to  its  proper  consistency.  Before 
serving,  add  a  piece  of  butter.  This  puree  will  be  found  more  succulent  than  the  foregoing. 

SOUP— PUREE  OF  GREEN  PEAS. 

No.  1089. — Put  into  a  saucepan  two  gallons  of  water  with  a  little 
salt,  and  when  it  boils  add  five  pounds  of  fresh  Peas,  a  faggot  of 
parsley  garnished  with  a  few  green  onions,  and  a  head  of  lettuce. 
As  soon  as  the  Peas  are  tender,  remove  the  faggot,  drain 
them  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  puree  in 
a  saucepan  and  add  three  quarts  of  lightly  thickened  chicken 
or  veal  broth.  Set  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  until  it  boils;  then 
let  it  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Before  serving  add  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  divided  into  small  pieces,  and  stir  it  well  until  the  butter 
is  melted.  Serve  small  fried  bread  crumbs  with  it. 


252  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

SOUP — PUREE  OF  GREEN  PEAS,  ST.  GERMAIN. 

No.  1090.— Cook  the  Peas  .as  in  No.  1089.  When  tender  drain 
them,  take  out  the  faggot,  put  the  peas  back  into  the  saucepan  and 
add  two  quarts  of  Cream  sauce,  diluted  with  chicken  broth  to  its 
consistency.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Rub 
it  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  and  keep  it 
warm  in  a  hot  water  bath.  Before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter 
and  stir  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted.  This  soup  should  have 
a  bright,  green  color  (if  necessary  use  green  color  of  spinach. 
Serve  with  small  balls  of  forced  meat  of  chicken,  poached  in  broth. 

NOTE. — In  making  this  soup  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  Peas,  and  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  green 
asparagus  tops  maybe  used. 

SOUP — PUREE  OF  SPLIT  PEAS. 

No.  1091. — Carefully  sort  three  pounds  of  yellow  dried  Peas, 
•wash  them  well,  let  them  soak  for  five  hours  in  cold  water,  and  then 
drain  them.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  cold 
water,  or  use  half  water  and  half  broth.  Add  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished  with  one  leek  and  some  celery,  two  onions  with  four 
cloves  in  each,  two  carrots,  and  a  piece  of  parboiled  salt  pork,  or 
bacon.  Cover  the  saucepan,  let  them  cook  slowly  until  thoroughly 
done,  and  then  take  out  the  faggot,  carrots,  onions,  and  pork  or 
bacon.  Add  some  plain  broth  to  give  the  puree  its  proper  con- 
sistency, and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  rub  it  through  a 
line  sieve  and  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan,  stirring  it  well  until  it 
boils.  Then  let  it  simmer  slowly  for  half  an  hour  and  add  a  piece 
of  butter.  Before  serving,  cut  the  pork  or  bacon  in  small  pieces, 
fry  them  crisp,  drain  them,  mix  some  small  fried  bread  crumbs  with 
them,  and  put  them  in  the  soup,  or  serve  them  on  a  plate,  as  may 
be  desired. 

SOUP — PUREE   OF   SPLIT  PEAS,    WITH    JULIENNE   SOUP,    CONDE. 

No.  1092. — This  soup  is  a  puree  of  split  Peas,  into  which  half  of 
its  quantity  of  Julienne  soup  is  added. 

SOUP — PUREE   OF   DRIED   GREEN   PEAS,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  1093. — Pick  and  wash  four  pounds  of  the  Peas,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  and  boil  them  in  three  quarts  of  water  or  broth. 
Garnish  with  a  faggot  of  vegetables  tied  together,  season  with  salt, 
and  let  them  cook  glowly  until  tender.  Then  remove  the  faggot,  and 
add  broth  enough  to  bring  the  soup  to  its  proper  consistency.  Rub 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  253 

it  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  and  set  it  on  the 
fire  to  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  then  skim  it  well  and  add  a  piece  of 
butter  and  two  handfuls  of  boiled  rice.  A  ham-bone  or  piece  of 
pork  may  be  cooked  with  the  soup  if  desired. 

PKESEBVED   GREEN    PEAS. 

No.  1094. — Have  the  Peas  freshly  plucked  and  shelled,  and 
uniform  in  size.  Put  them  into  boiling  water,  lightly  salted,  and 
when  they  are  three-quarters  cooked,  drain  them.  Then  dry  them 
on  a  towel,  and  when  they  are  cold,  put  them  into  quart  tin  cans. 
Cover  the  Peas  in  the  cans  with  cold  boiled  water,  adding  to  each 
can  a  little  salt  and  a  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda.  Cover  the  cans, 
hermetically,  and  boil  them  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  two  hours. 


ARTICLE  CLIII. 


Froi:c!i  PENNYROYAL.  German 

Pouliot.  P,,ld. 

No.  1095. — Pennyroyal  possesses  a  warm,  pungent,  aromatic  taste, 
and  is  used  exclusively  for  medical  purposes.  An  infusion  of  the 
leaves  is  stimulating,  sudorific,  tonic  and  beneficial  in  colds  and 
chills.  It  is  a  small,  branching,  annual  plant,  common  to  gravelly 
localities  and  abounding  towards  autumn  in  dry  fields,  where  crops, 
of  wheat  or  rye  have  been  recently  harvested. 


ARTICLK  CLIV. 


PEPPER. 

Poivre  et  Pimml.  Pfeffer. 

No.  1096. — There  are  many  varieties  of  Pepper,  both  annual  and 
perennial,  the  latter  being  of  a  shrubby  or  woody  character,  and 
as  it  is  a  tropical  plant,  it  is  tender.  The  annual  varieties  can  be 
grown  in  the  Middle  and  Southern  States  successfully. 

The  annual,  or  common  garden  Pepper,  is  a  native  of  India. 

Pepper  is  used  more  than  any  other  spice.  There  are  three  kinds 
in  use — the  White,  Black,  and  Red.  It  facilitates  digestion  and 


254  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

corrects  flatulency.  In  warm  countries  it  is  used  in  great  quantities, 
but  for  good  cooking  it  should  be  used  with  moderation,  and 
persons  of  nervous  debility  should  abstain  from  using  any.  For 
persons  living  on  plain  food,  and  having  out-of-door  work,  it 
imparts  vitality,  and  is  very  beneficial.  There  are  also  a  large 
variety  of  Peppers  eaten  and  prepared  in  their^  green  state,  and  put 
up  like  pickles.  The  large  Bell  Peppers  are  stuffed  and  used  as  a 
vegetable,  and  are  also  excellent  for  pickling,  and  when  sliced  are 
much  esteemed  in  salads,  in  connection  with  tomatoes  and  cucumbers. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1097. — Sow  in  hot  beds  early  in  April,  and  transplant  to  the 
open  ground  when  the  weather  is  favorable.  They  should  be 
planted  in  warm,  mellow  soil,  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  or  they 
may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground,  when  danger  of  frost  is  past,  and 
the  soil  is  warm  and  the  weather  settled. 

CHILI. 

No.  1098. — This  variety  has  sharply  conical  pods  of  a  brilliant 

scarlet  color,  which  are  exceeding^  pungent  when  ripe.  They  are 

principally  used  in  making  Pepper  sauce.  The  plants  should  be 
started  early  in  hot  beds. 

LONG  RED   CAYENNE. 

No.  1099. — This  kind  has  a  long,  slim,  pointed  pod,  and  when 
ripe,  is  of  a  bright  red  color.  The. flavor  is  strong  and  pungent. 

LARGE    SQUASH. 

No.  1100. — The  fruit  is  large,  flat  and  tomato-shaped,  more  or 
less  ribbed,  with  a  smooth  and  glossy  skin.  The  flesh  is  mild, 
thick-meated  and  pleasant  to  the  taste,  although  it  possesses  more 
pungency  than  many  of  the  other  varieties. 

GOLDEN   DAWN. 

No.  1101. — This  kind  resembles  the  Large  Bell  in  size  and  shape, 
and  has  a  beautiful  golden  yellow  color.  The  flavor  is  pleasant 
and  delicate. 

LARGE   BELL. 

No.  1102. — A  large  sort  of  square  form,  tapering  to  a  point.  It 
is  an  early  variety,  less  pungent  than  most  kinds,  and  is  thick  and 
hard.  It  is  suitable  for  tilling  with  cabbage,  etc. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  255 

SWEET    MOUNTAIN. 

No.  1103. — This  is  similar  to  the  Bell  Pepper  in  shape  and  color, 
but  is  large  and  milder  in  flavor. 

CKANBEEBY. 

No.  1104. — The  fruit  resembles  the  cranberry  in  appearance,  and 
is  a  good  variety  for  pickling. 

GROSSUM. 

No.  1105. — A  large  French  variety  of  irregular  shape,  which  is 
good  for  mangoes. 

CHERRY,  OR  LITTLE  GEM. 

No.  1106. — The  fruit  or  berries  are  of  a  globular  form,  about 
the  size  of  a  large  red  currant,  and  of  a  brilliant  scarlet  hue. 
They  are  produced  in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  will  be  found 
useful  in  the  preparation  of  pepper  sauces,  and  when  pickled  as 
soon  as  plucked.  To  prepare  them  for  use  in  their  dry  state,  it  is 
only  necessary  to  cut  the  plants  close  to  the  roots  when  the  fruit  is 
ripe.  String  the  berries  and  hang  them  up  in  a  warm,  dry  room. 
They  will  retain  their  piquancy  for  years.  The  plant  is  so  beautiful 
that  when  grown  in  pots  it  will  always  prove  ornamental;  the 
glossy,  coral  red  of  the  numerous  pods  presenting  a  fine  contrast 
to  the  deep  green  foliage  surrounding  them. 

CHILI   PEPPERS  PRESERVED  IN   VINEGAR. 

No.  1107. — Select  small  Chili  Peppers,  all  of  the  same  size,  cut 
the  ends  and  put  the  Peppers  into  pint  bottles.  Fill  them  to  cover 
with  wine  vinegar,  cork  the  bottles  tightly,  and  in  six  weeks  the 
Peppers  will  be  ready  for  use. 

i 

CHILI  PEPPER  VINEGAR. 

No.  1108. — Put  into  a  demijohn  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  dried 
marigolds,  one  clove  of  garlic,  three  shallots,  a  few  grains  of 
pepper,  four  cloves,  and  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  Chili  Peppers, 
from  which  cut  off  the  ends.  Then  add  one  gallon  of  wine  vinegar 
and  cork  the  demijohn  tightly.  Six  weeks  after  strain  the  vinegar 
through  a  filter  and  put  it  into  bottles. 


256  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

PEPPER    VINEGAR. 

No.  1109. — Out  one  dozen  bell  Peppers  and  half  a  dozen  long 
green  Peppers  in  slices,  and  put  them  in  a  jar  with  half  a  dozen 
pepper-corns.  Boil  six  pints  of  vinegar,  to  which  add  two  ounces 
of  sugar,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils  pour  it  over  the  Peppers.  When  it 
is  cool  cover  the  pot  and  set  it  away  for  two  weeks;  then  strain  the 
vinegar  through  a  filter,  put  it  in  bottles  and  cork  them  tightly. 

PRESERVED    PICKLED   BELL   PEPPERS. 

No.  1110.— Take  one  hundred  fresh  green  pods,  slice  them  down 
on  one  side,  cut  off  the  stems,  take  out  the  seeds,  and  put  them  in 
a  small  barrel,  or  earthen  jar.  Cover  them  with  cold  brine. 
Ten  hours  after  this  drain  off  the  brine,  add  the  same 
quantity  of  fresh  brine,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place.  The  fol- 
lowing day  drain  them  on  a  towel  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  put 
them  into  glass  jars.  Boil  the  quantity  of  wine  vinegar  required  to 
cover  them,  and  when  the  vinegar  is  cold  pour  it  over  the  Peppers 
and  cover  them  tight.  Six  weeks  after  being  put  into  the  jars  they 
will  be  ready  for  use.  They  are  much  esteemed  by  epicures. 

PRESERVED    STUFFED   PICKLED   BELL   PEPPERS. 

No.  1111. — Cut  the  stems  from  one  hundred  Bell  Peppers,  then 
slice  the  tops  without  detaching  them,  scoop  out  the  seeds,  and  put 
them  in  a  brine  of  the  same  kind  as  in  No.  1110,  then  drain  them. 
Cut  the  white  part  of  three  heads  of  cabbage  into  small,  fine  shreds, 
parboil  them  for  five  minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water, 
and  drain  them  dry.  Then  season  with  a  little  salt.  Stuff  the 
Peppers  with  the  cabbage,  covering  it  with  the  undetached  slices 
of  the  Peppers.  Arrange  them  in  jars  and  pour  over  them,  to  cover, 
some  cold  boiled  vinegar.  Cover  them  tightly,  and  in  two  months 
they  will  be  ready  for  use. 

PICKLED   STUFFED    BELL    PEPPERS,    SHARON   STYLE. 

No.  1112. — Prepare  the  Peppers  in  the  same  manner  as  in  No. 
1111.  Cut  the  tender  parts  of  two  hea'ds  of  cabbage  into  fine  shreds, 
parboil  them  for  five  minutes  and  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Then 
put  the  cabbage  in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  add  to  it  four  ounces  of 
white  mustard  seed,  two  ounces  of  celery  seed,  and  four  soup- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  horse-radish.  Season  with  a  little  salt,  and 
mix  the  whole  well  together.  Stuff  the  Peppers  with  this  preparation 
and  in  the  center  of  each  place  a  small  onion  or  a  pickle.  Tie  the 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  257 

cover  on  with  a  string,  arrange  them  nicely  in  jars,  and  pour  over 
them  cold  boiled  vinegar  to  cover  them.     Hermetically  seal  the  jars. 

HOW  TO   MAKE   BED   PEPPER. 

No.  1113. — The  pods  of  the  cherry  Peppers  will  furnish  a  quality 
of  Cayenne  Pepper  superior  to  that  ordinarily  sold.  The  larger 
and  milder  kinds  are  powdered  in  the  same  manner  and  make  a 
wholesome  and  pleasant  quality  of  Pepper,  sufficiently  pungent  for 
ordinary  use. 

BROILED   BELL   PEPPERS. 

No.  1114. — Dip  the  Peppers  in  boiling  water  and  then  peel  them. 
Broil  them  on  a  slow  fire  and  serve  them  on  toast,  with  a  little 
melted  butter,  into  which  add  a  little  fine  chopped  parsley. 

STUFFED   BELL   PEPPERS,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1115. — Select  one  dozen  nicely  shaped  Bell  Peppers,  slice  off 
the  tops  and  scoop  out  the  seeds.  Chop  two  onions  finely  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  them  lightly  and 
then  add  a  handful  of  fine  chopped  mushrooms.  Cover  the  sauce- 
pan, and  when  the  moisture  is  reduced  add  four  spoonfuls  of  reduced 
Allemande  sauce,  a  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Mix  them  well  together, 
then  take  the  saucepan  off  of  the  fire  and  add  the  yolks  of  two  raw 
eggs  and  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  stir  them  well  together. 
Stuff  the  Peppers  and  arrange  them  in  a  buttered  baking  pan. 
Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them,  put  a  piece  of  butter  on 
eac.h  one,  then  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  nicely 
browned  serve  them  on  a  dish  with  a  teaspoonful  of  veal  gravy  over 
each  one. 

STUFFED    BELL   PEPPERS,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  1116. — Prepare  the  Peppers  as  in  No.  1115,  then  prepare  a 
forced-meat  of  veal  (Godiveau),  to  which  add  some  cooked  fine  herbs. 
Cover  each  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  and  then  arrange  them  on 
a  flat  saucepan.  Moisten  them  with  veal  gravy,  then  cover  them 
with  a  buttered  paper  arid  bake  them  slowly  until  they  are  nicely 
glazed.  Dish  them  up  with  a  reduced  Espagnole  sauce. 

STUFFED    BELL   PEPPERS,    BRAZILIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1117. — Prepare  one  dozen  Peppers  as  in  No.  1115.     Chop 
one  onion  finely  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter. 
17 


258  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

Put  on  the  cover  and  let  it  simmer.  When  the  onion  is  half  cooked 
add  half  its  quantity  of  finely  chopped  mushrooms  and  the  same 
quantity  of  green  Peppers.  Let  this  simmer  until  the  moisture  is 
reduced.  Then  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce  and  a 
handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Season  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  and 
add  some  finely  chopped  parsley  and  a  small  pinch  of  garlic.  Mix 
them  well  together  while  adding  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs.  Then 
stuff  the  Peppers,  covering  each  one  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork . 
Arrange  them  in  a  buttered  flat  sauce  pan,  bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven  and  serve  them  with  a  brown  Italian  sauce. 

GREEN   PEPPERS,    FOR    GARNITURE. 

No.  1118. — For  large  garnitures  the  stuffed  Peppers  described  in 
Nos.  1115,  1116  and  1117,  are  used,  alternated  with  stuffed  tomatoes 
or  mushrooms.  For  boiled  meats  use  them  as  in  No.  1114. 

PEPPERS  FOR  RELISHES. 

NTo.  1119. — Trim  the  stems  off,  and  if  the  Peppers  are  large  cut 
them  in  four  or  six  pieces.  Remove  the  seeds  and  then  serve  them 
on  a  relish  dish,  garnished  with  radishes.  When  pickled  Peppers 
are  used,  first  dry  them  in  a  napkin  and  then  slice  them,  adding  a 
little  oil,  vinegar  and  salt.  The  large  bell  Peppers  are  broiled  first, 
then  peeled  and  sliced  and  seasoned  with  oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and 
salt. 

TO  MAKE  WHITE  PEPPER. 

No.  1120. — Soak  some  pepper-corns  in  cold  water  until  the  skin 
is  tender,  then  peel  and  dry  them  and  grind  them  in  a  coffee  mill. 


ARTICLE  CLV. 


PEPPERMINT. 

Menth  Poivree.  Pfetfcrmunze. 

No.  1121. — Peppermint  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant  introduced 
into  this  country  from  Europe.  It  grows  naturally  and  abundantly 
along  the  banks  of  small  streams  and  in  rich  wet  localities.  When 
once  established,  it  spreads  rapidly,  and  will  remain  for  a  long 
period.  The  stems  are  smooth,  erect,  four-sided,  and  from  two  to 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  259 

three  feet  in  height.  The  leaves  have  an  agreeable  odor  and  a 
peculiarly  warm  pleasant  flavor.  The  plant  is  principally  used  for 
distillation,  being  cultivated  for  this  purpose,  and  will  bear  from 
four  to  five  years  by  proper  attention.  The  best  quality  of  oil  is 
produced  during  the  first  year. 


CLVI. 


French  PE  TSAI.  German 

C'houx  Pitsai.  Chinesichen  Kohl. 

No.  1122. — This  is  an  annual  plant,  a  native  of  China.  The 
leaves  are  of  an  oval  form,  rounded  at  the  ends,  somewhat  blistered 
on  the  surface,  and  at  the  center  are  collected  into  a  long  and  rather 
compact  tuft  or  head.  The  plant,  when  well  grown  and  ready  for 
use,  resembles  a  head  of  Cos  lettuce,  and  will  weigh  six  or  seven 
pounds.  It  is  used  like  common  cabbage,  being  sweet,  mildly 
flavored,  and  easy  to  digest.  The  young  plants  are  also  boiled  like 
spinach. 


ARTICLK  CLVI  I. 


PICKLES. 

Cornichon.  Essiggurken- 

No.  1123  — Small  cucumbers  are  best  for  pickling,  and  for  this 
purpose  they  must  be  plucked  young,  when  they  attain  the  proper 
size.  The  fruit  should  not  be  permitted  to  ripen  on  the  vines,  for 
if  allowed  to  do  so  the  plants  become  much  less  productive.  See 
Pickled  Cucumbers,  Nos.  641  and  642. 

MIXED  PICKLES. 

No.  1124. — Are  composed  of  young  cucumbers,  cauliflower, 
peppers,  string  beans  and  onions.  The  mode  of  pickling  them 
has  been  described.  When  ready  for  pickling  put  them  into  glass, 
jars  with  a  few  juniper  berries.  Dilute  some  mustard  flour  with 
vinegar,  season  it  with  a  pinch  of  red  pepper  and  pour  it  over  them, 
to  cover.  Then  seal  the  jar  hermetically. 


260  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CHOW  CHOW  (HOME  MADE). 

No.  1125. — Select  five  dozen  small  cucumbers,  of  from  one  to  one 
and  a  half  inches  in  length;  four  dozen  small,  white  peeled  onions, 
half  a  dozen  small  green  peppers,  and  the  flower  buds  of  two  tender 
cauliflowers,  separated  into  small  pieces.  Put  them  into  a  strong 
brine  for  two  days,  then  drain  them  in  a  colander  and  pour  luke- 
warm water  over  them  to  rinse  them.  Parboil  the  onions  for  five 
minutes,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  and  when  refreshed 
drain  them  also  into  the  colander.  When  dry,  put  the  oDions, 
cucumbers,  peppers  and  cauliflowers  in  a  copper  basin.  Dilute  in 
&  pint  of  lukewarm  water  eight  ounces  of  mustard  flour,  to  which 
:add  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper  and  three  ounces  of  tumeric.  To 
iliis  add  enough  of  either  cider  or  wine  vinegar  to  cover  the 
vegetables.  Then  set  them  on  the  fire  and  let  them  simmer  until 
tender  (if  desired  a  little  sugar  may  be  added  while  cooking). 
When  tender  take  them  off  of  the  fire,  put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl, 
and  Avhen  they  are  cold  put  them  in  wide-mouthed  bottles  and  cork 
tightly. 


ARTICLE  CLVIII. 


French  PICRIDIUM.  German 

Picridium.  Picridium. 

No.  1126. — A  hardy  biennial  plant,  from  the  southern  part  of 
Europe.  The  stem  is  eighteen  inches  high,  and  the  leaves  about 
eight  inches  long,  irregular  in  form  and  generally  broad  at  the  ends, 
heart-shaped  and  clasping  at  the  base.  The  leaves  have  a  pleasant 
agreeable  odor,  and  while  young  and  tender  are  mixed  with  salads. 
Sow  the  seed  in  May  in  drills  a  foot  apart  and  half  an  inch  in  depth. 
The  plants,  when  allowed  to  run  to  seed,  produce  but  little  foliage. 
Nip  off' the  flowering  shoot  as  soon  as  it  makes  its  appearance. 


ARTICLE  CLIX. 


POKE,  OR  PIGEON  BERRY. 

Sachet.  Poke. 

No.  1127. — A  hard}7,  herbaceous    perennial  plant,  common   by 
the  roadside  in  waste  places,  and  springing  up  spontaneously  on 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  261 

newly  burned  pine  lands.  It  has  a  branching,  purplish  stem,  and 
large  oval-pointed  entire  leaves.  The  fruit  consists  of  a  flat,  purple, 
juicy  berry,  which  is  sometimes  used  as  a  purple  dye.  The  annual 
phytolacca  is  less  vigorous  and  stocky.  Sow  the  seeds  in  April,  in 
drills,  fifteen  inches  apart.  The  young  shoots .  are  boiled  and 
served  the  same  as  sea  kale.  In  taste  it  is  similar  to  asparagus. 
The  roots  are  used  for  medicinal  purposes,  and  when  taken 
internally  act  as  a  violent  emetic. 

POKE  STALKS,  WITH  BUTTER  SAUCE. 

No.  1128. — When  the  stalks  are  two  inches  high,  and  show  only 
a  tuft  of  leaves  at  the  top,  gather  them.  (They  are  unfit  for  use 
when  larger  or  older.)  Scrape  the  stalks  and  put  them  in  cold, 
acidulated  water.  Tie  them  in  bundles  (the  same  as  asparagus), 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  let  them  cook  until 
tender.  Serve  them  on  a  napkin  with  Butter  or  Hollandaise  sauce, 
separate. 


CLX. 


French  POPPY.  German 

Pavot.  Mohnsamen. 

No.  1129. — A  hardy  annual  plant,  growing  naturally  in  various 
parts  of  this  country..  It  is  cultivated  for  its  seeds,  which  give  an 
oil  of  very  agreeable  flavor,  that  is  used  for  domestic  purposes  (in 
place  of  olive  oil),  by  druggists  and  for  fine  art  painting.  The  seeds 
are  also  used  for  bird  food,  and  for  this  purpose  are  known  as 
marrow  seed. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  1130. — Sow  the  seeds  in  April  or  May,  in  rows  two  feet  apart. 
It  is  cultivated  easily  and  can  be  grown  successfully  in  the  Middle 
or  Southern  States.  * 


CLXI. 


PORTUGAL  CABBAGE. 

Choux  Portugais.  Portugal  Kohl. 

No.  1131. — A  variety  of  Cabbage  quite  distinct  from  the  common 
head  sorts.    The  stalk  is  short  and  thick;  the  outer  leaves  are  large, 


262  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

roundish,  of  a  dark  bluish-green  color,  wrinkled  on  the  surface  and 
slightly  undulating  on  the  borders.  The  midrib  of  the  leaf  is  large, 
thick,  nearly  white,  and  branches  into  veins.  It  forms  a  loose  head 
and  when  full  grown  is  nearly  two  feet  high.  Different  parts  of  the 
•Cabbage  are  used  for  culinary  purposes.  The  ribs  of  the  outer  and 
large  leaves,  when  boiled,  somewhat  resemble  the  sea-kale,  both  in 
texture  and  flavor.  The  heart,  or  middle,  of  the  plant  is,  however, 
the  best  for  use,  as  it  is  delicate  and  agreeably  flavored,  being 
without  any  of  the  coarseness  often  found  in  the  common  Cabbage. 
It  is  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  common  Cabbage.  See 
Cabbage,  Article  XXX. 


ARTICLE;  CLXii. 


French  POTATOES.  German 

Pomme  de  terre.  Kartoffeln, 

No.  1132. — The  Potato  is  an  esculent  and  farinaceous  plant,  and  a 
native  of  South  America.  In  its  wild,  natural  state,  the  tuber  rarely 
exceeds  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  is  comparativelv  unpalatable, 
but  owing  to  cultivation  they  have  greatly  increased  both  in  size 
and  variety.  There  are  over  two  hundred  varieties,  some  of  which 
are  far  superior  to  others,  much  depending  on  the  culture  and  the 
soil  in  which  they  are  grown.  They  are  considered  the  most  impor- 
tant of  all  the  esculent  roots,  and  a  valuable  article  of  human  subsist- 
ence. The  Potato  is  a  healthful  and  nourishing  vegetable,  being 
agreeable  to  most  all  constitutions.  It  can  be  obtained  throughout 
the  year,  and  may  be  prepared  without  much  trouble.  The  Potato 
is  also  used  for  other  preparations.  The  Potato  flour  (fecula)  is 
used  by  invalids  and  confectioners,  and  is  mixed  into  the  prepara- 
tions of  the  common  sorts  of  chocolate..  The  Potato  blossom  is 
used  in  making  paint,  and  the  leaves  when  dried  are  used  by  tobac- 
conists. * 

CULTURE. 

No.  1133. — The  soil  best  suited  for  the  Potato  is  of  the  drier  and 
lighter  description;  pasture  land  or  new  land  with  the  turf  freshly 
turned,  producing  the  most  abundant  as  well  as  the  most  certain 
crop.  When  grown  in  land  of  a  stiff  clayish  texture,  or  in  wet  soils, 
they  are  not  only  extremely  liable  to  disease,  but  the  quality  is  also 
very  inferior.  If  the  soil  is  good  but  little  manure  will  be  required. 
In  highly  enriched  soil  the  plants  appear  to  be  more  liable  to  dis- 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  263 

ease  than  when  grown  in  soil  that  is  naturally  good.  The  best 
fertilizers  are  those  of  a  dry  or  absorbent  nature,  such  as  plaster 
lime,  superphosphate  of  lime,  and  bone  dust.  For  wet  soil  these 
are  particularly  beneficial,  as  they  not  only  promote  growth,  but 
prevent  disease.  The  Potato  is  propagated  from  tubers,  which  are 
either  divided  into  sets,  or  planted  entire.  Whichever  practice 
may  be  adopted,  experience  has  proven  that  plants  from  well  ripened 
tubers  are  not  only  more  healthful  and  more  productive,  but  actually 
come  to  perfection  earlier  than  those  produced  from  immature  sets. 
Potatoes  are  usually  planted  either  in  hills  or  ridges,  the  former 
method  being  the  most  common  in  this  country.  If  planted  in  hills 
they  should  be  made  three  feet  apart,  on  light  warm  soil.  They 
require  covering  nearly  four  inches  deep,  but  in  cold,  wet  situations 
two  and  a  half  inches  will  be  sufficient.  Cultivation  should  be 
commenced  as  soon  as  the  young  shoots  are  fairly  above  the  surface, 
and  as  the  season  advances  gather  the  earth  gradually  about  the 
hills  or  long  drills,  adding  a  little  at  each  successive  hoeing  for  the 
support  of  the  growing  plants,  and  to  encourage  the  development 
of  the  rich  roots,  for  it  is  at  the  extremity  of  the  roots  that  the 
tubers  are  found.  After  the  appearance  of  the  blossoms  cultivation 
should  be  discontinued,  and  no  further  attention  will  be  required 
until  the  time  for  harvesting.  The  season  of  maturity  of  the 
earlier  sorts  will  be  indicated  by  the  decay  of  the  plants.  The 
later  sorts  will  continue  their  growth  until  checked  by  frost,  pre- 
vious to  which  time  they  will  not  be  ready  for  harvesting.  New 
Potatoes  may  be  had  in  the  Southern  States  and  in  California  in 
February  and  March,  and  in  the  Northern  States  as  early  as  May 
or  June,  when  the  weather  is  practicable. 

The  table  should  be  supplied  from  day  to  day  directly  from  the 
field  or  garden,  as  the  tubers  rapidly  deteriorate  after  being  taken 
from  the  ground,  especially  if  exposed  to  a  warm,  light  atmosphere, 
or  when  kept  in  a  warm,  dry  cellar.  In  the  preservation  of  potatoes 
it  is  of  the  first  importance  that  they  be  excluded  from  light  (if  this 
is  neglected  they  become  injured).  Fermentation  is  also  an  im- 
portant evil  to  be  guarded  against,  as  it  changes  the  whole  substance 
of  the  Potato.  Of  the  many  old  and  new  varieties  that  claim  public 
favor  the  following  are  selected : 

EAELY  MAYFLOWER. 

No.  1134. — Ripens  very  early,  and  in  quality  is  claimed  to  be 
equal  to  the  Snowflake.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  cross  between  the  Snow- 
flake  and  Peachblow.  The  tubers  are  of  medium  size  and  run  very 
uniform,  being  slightly  flattened,  oval  shaped,  and  of  a  light  lemon 
color.  The  skin  is  well  covered  with  very  fine  netting,  and  has 


264  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

very  few  eyes.  The  flesh  is  white  and  solid.  It  cooks  evenly  and 
thoroughly,  without  falling  to  pieces,  and  has  no  hard  core,  so  com- 
mon to  other  sorts. 

WALL'S  ORANGE. 

No.  1135. — Unsurpassed  as  a  table  variety.  Its  color  is  very 
distinct,  being  of  a  decided  orange  hue,  from  which  it  derives  its 
name.  It  is  unequaled  in  quality  and  productiveness,  and  one  of 
the  strongest  growers. 

JUMBO. 

No.  1136. — This  is  one  of  the  largest  growing  Potatoes  in  cultiva- 
tion, being  at  least  one-third  larger  than  the  Peerless.  It  seems  to 
be  entirely  free  from  rot  and  is  one  of  the  very  best  keepers.  The 
tubers  are  nearly  round,  the  skin  white,  the  eyes  small  and  sunken 
and  the  flesh  white  and  of  excellent  flavor.  Either  baked  or  boiled 
they  are  dry  and  mealy. 

CHAMPION   OF   AMERICA. 

No.  1137. — The  tubers  are  flesh-colored  and  the  eyes  carmine, 
small  and  even  with  the  surface.  It  grows  to  an  immense  size  on 
strong  ground,  producing  tubers  as  heavy  as  three  pounds  in  weight. 
It  is  a  tremendous  yielder,  one  of  the  best  of  keepers,  and  is  not  to 
be  excelled  for  cooking  purposes. 

ROCHESTER  FAVORITE. 

No.  1138. — A  late  variety  that  is  white,  oval-oblong  and  very 
uniform  in  size.  An  immense  yielder  and  a  handsome  variety, 
excellent  for  table  use. 

SAINT    PATRICK. 

No.  1139. — A  handsome,  smooth  and  regular  variety,  with  very 
few  and  shallow  eyes.  A  large  yielder  and  of  the  best  quality; 
excellent  either  baked  or  broiled  being  dry  and  mealy. 

BEAUTY  OF  HEBRON. 

No.  1140. — One  of  the  best  early  sorts  with  white  skin  and  flesh. 
A  good  keeper,  excellent  for  table  use,  either  baked  or  boiled. 

EARLY  ROSE. 

No.  1141. — The  leading  variety  for  earliness,  quality  and  pro- 
ductiveness. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  265 

WHITE    EOSE. 

No.  1142. — A  second  early  variety  of  medium  size,  very  uniform 
and  finely  formed,  with  white  skin  slightly  russeted. 

LATE   EOSE. 

No.  1143. — The  best  of  the  late  varieties. 

PEEELESS. 

No.  1144. — A  favorite  variety  for  general  use. 

SNOWFLAKE. 

No.  1145. — A  variety  of  medium  earliness  and  unsurpassed  for 
mealiness  and  delicacy  of  flavor. 

EAELY  TELEPHONE. 

No.  1146. — One  of  the  best  yielders,  producing  from  one  planted 
tuber  as  many  as  thirty  or  forty  of  good  quality. 

VEEMONT    CHAMPION. 

No.  1147. — Grows  to  an  immense  size;  of  fine  shape  and  a  good 
yielder. 

PEACH  BLOW. 

No.  1148.  This  variety  is  well  known,  as  it  is  planted  in  immense 
quantities  all  over  the  country.  It  is  very  productive  and  ripens 
about  the  same  time  as  the  Burbank.  The  tubers  are  of  medium 
size,  oval-oblong,  and  very  handsomely  formed.  A  good  keeper, 
and  one  of  the  very  best  for  transportation. 

MAMMOTH   PEAEL. 

No.  1149. — The  skin  is  white,  the  tubers  medium  in  size,  and  the 
eyes  are  quite  even  with  the  surface.  An  excellent  variety  for 
table  use,  being  exceedingly  floury  and  well  flavored. 

EAELY  GEM. 

No.  1150. — One  of  "[the  best  early  Potatoes,  of  medium  size,  oval- 
oblong  in  form  and  very  smooth.  The  eyes  are  shallow  and  few  in 


"266  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

number.     It   cooks   well   and   has   white   and   exceedingly   mealy 
flesh. 


CARTER. 

No.  1151. — A  medium  sized,  round,  flattened  white  Potato,  and 
one  of  the  finest  varieties,  with  numerous  deeply  sunk  eyes.  The 
flesh  is  white,  remarkably  dry,  farinaceous  and  well-flavored. 

BUCKEYE. 

No.  1152. — A  handsome  round  Potato,  with  a  little  bright  pink  at 
the  bottom  of  the  eyes.  It  is  grown  to  a  considerable  extent  in  the 
Western  States.  It  cooks  dry  and  light,  and  is  well  flavored  when 
grown  for  early  use.  When  grown  for  a  late  crop,  in  rich  ground, 
many  of  the  tubers  are  liable  to  be  hollow  in  consequence  of  their 
rapid  growth,  thus  impairing  their  value  for  table  use. 

CALIFORNIA   RED. 

No.  1153. — A  bright  red  Potato,  having  tubers  that  vary  in  form 
from  long  to  nearly  round.  One  of  the  most  productive  of  all  the 
varieties,  but  its  liability  to  disease  accounts  for  it  not  being  gen- 
erally cultivated. 

BOILED   POTATOES. 

No.  1154. — Wash  the  Potatoes  in  cold  water  and  remove  all  the 
small  particles  attached  to  them.  Then  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  water  to  cover,  add  a  little  salt,  put  on  the  cover  and  set  them 
on  a  brisk  fire  to  bring  them  to  a  boil.  Then  set  them  on  the  side 
of  the  fire  to  let  them  boil  moderately.  As  soon  as  they  are  done 
drain  off  the  water,  replace  the  cover  tightly  and  set  the  Potatoes 
on  the  stove  again  for  five  minutes  to  dry  them.  If  the  Potatoes 
are  good  the  flesh  will  be  dry,  white  and  mealy.  Serve  them  in  a 
napkin. 

NOTE.  —Do  not  let  Potatoes  boil  too  quick,  nor  let  them  remain  in  the  water  after  they  have  been 
boiled. 

BOILED   PEELED   POTATOES. 

No.  1155. — Peel  the  Potatoes  and  wash  them  in  cold  water  (have 
them  as  near  alike  in  size  as  possible).  Put  them  into  a  saucepan, 
three-quarters  full  of  cold  water,  add  a  little  salt,  put  on  the  cover 
and  boil  them  as  in  No.  1154.  When  done  drain  off  the  water  and 
cover  the  Potatoes  with  a  napkin.  Then  put  on  the  cover,  set  them 
back  on  the  stove,  and  when  dried  serve  them  in  a  napkin  or  with 
melted  butter. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  267 

BOILED  NEW  POTATOES. 

No.  1156. — :New  Potatoes  need  not  be  peeled.  Wash  them  in 
cold  water,  then  rub  them  with  a  coarse  towel  and  the  skin  will 
come  off.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  three-quarters  full  of  cold 
water,  add  a  little  salt  and  boil  them  as  in  No.  -1154.  When  done 
drain  them  and  serve  with  melted  butter  or  Cream  sauce  over  them. 

BOILED   POTATOES,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  1157. — Boil  two  dozen  peeled  Potatoes,  and  when  they  are 
done  dish  them  up  with  the  following  preparation  over  them:  Put 
into  a  frying  pan  two  ounces  of  butter  and  one  finely  chopped  onion. 
Fry  the  onion  to  a  light  brown  color  and  add  a  little  fresh  bread 
crumbs.  Toss  this  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  browned  pour  it 
over  the  Potatoes. 

STEAMED   POTATOES. 

No.  1158. — Steamed  Potatoes  are  preferred  by  some  to  boiled 
Potatoes,  and  those  that  are  not  of  the  best  quality  will  be  found 
better  when  steamed  than  boiled.  Have  a  small  boiler  three-quarters 
full  of  water.  When  the  water  boils  set  on  top  of  this  boiler  an- 
other one  with  perforated  holes  in  the  bottom,  and  into  this  put  the 
Potatoes,  adding  a  little  salt  to  them.  Cover  them  tightly  with  a 
perforated  cover.  When  the  steam  comes  through  freely  the  Pota- 
toes will  be  done.  Serve  them  in  the  same  way  as  boiled  Potatoes. 
Where  vegetables  are  cooked  by  steam  power,  perforated  baskets 
are  made  to  fit  the  boilers,  and  in  this  case  the  faucets  must  be  left 
open  so  that  no  water  can  accumulate  in  the  boiler. 

STEWED   POTATOES,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1159. — Take  one  dozen  boiled  Potatoes  and  peel  them  (when 
of  medium  size  cut  them  in  halves,  and  when  large  cut  them  into 
quarters).  Then  slice  them  in  pieces  all  alike  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  cup  of  hot  milk  and 
a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg.  Let  them  simmer  until  the  milk  is  nearly  reduced,  then 
add  four  spoonfuls  of  Butter  sauce  and  let  them  conk  about  four 
minutes  longer.  Then  add  a  piece  of  butter,  some  finely  chopped 
parsley,  and  toss  them  well  together  off  of  the  fire  until  the  butter 
is  melted. 

STEWED  POTATOES,  MAITEE  D' HOTEL. 

No.  1160. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1159.  Then  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  cup  full  of  white  broth  and  set  it 


268  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

on  a  brisk  lire.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  the  broth  is 
nearly  reduced  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  some  finely  chopped 
parsley  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Toss  them  well  together  until 
the  butter  is  melted,  and  serve. 

STEWED  POTATOES,    EPICUREAN  STYLE. 

No.  1161. — Take  two  dozen  small,  new  Potatoes,  cut  them  in 
slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  put  them  into  a  flat  saucepan  and 
moisten  them  with  broth  to  cover.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
put  the  cover  on  the  saucepan  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire.  When  the 
broth  is  nearly  reduced  the  Potatoes  should  be  cooked.  Then  add 
a  piece  of  butter,  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  the  juice  of 
one  lemon.  Toss  them  well  together  off  of  the  fire  until  the  butter 
is  melted,  and  then  serve.  When  old  potatoes  are  used,  cut  them 
first  in  halves,  and  then  into  slices  of  an  equal  size. 

BAKED  STEWED  POTATOES,    WITH  CREAM,  CHAD  WICK  STYLE. 

No.  1162. — Boil  one  dozen  new  Potatoes,  cut  them  into  pieces  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  long  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  season  them  with 
salt,  a  pinch  of  red  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  When  the 
cream  is  reduced,  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce  and  toss  them 
well  together.  Then  put  them  into  a  buttered  baking  dish  and 
bake  them  in  an  oven  until  nicely  browned.  Wipe  the  border  of 
the  dish  in  which  the  Potatoes  have  been  baked  and  serve  them  on 
a  dish  with  a  napkin. 

STEWED   POTATOES,    BRETONNE   STYLE. 

No.  1163. — Put  into  a  saucepan  two  finely  sliced  onions,  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  two  soup-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  let  them  cook  for  five  minutes  while  stirring  them  with 
a  wooden  spoon.  Then  add  in  slowly,  half  a  pint  of  broth  and  a 
soup-spoonful  of  wine  vinegar.  Let  this  simmer  slowly  until  the 
onions  are  well  cooked,  then  add  one  and  a  half  dozen  of  sliced  and 
boiled  new  Potatoes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  thor- 
oughly warmed  serve  them. 

STEWED  POTATOES,  HANOVERIAN  STYLE. 

No.  1164. — Pare  four  dozen  small  new  Potatoes,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  and  moisten  them  with  broth  to  cover.  Boil  them  on  a 
brisk  fire,  and  when  cooked  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt, 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  269 

and  some  finely  chopped  parsley.     Toss  them  well  together  off  of 
the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  serve. 

STEWED   POTATOES,    WITH   MUSTAED   SAUCE. 

No.  1165. — Cut  into  small  pieces  four  ounces  of  raw  ham,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  it  lightly,  and 
add  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Let  it  cook  for  five  minutes  while 
stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Dilute  this  with  broth  enough  to 
make  a  light  sauce,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  put 
with  this,  two  spoonfuls  of  wine  vinegar,  a  faggot  of  parsley,  gar- 
nished with  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  one  bay  leaf.  Let  it  boil  slowly 
for  twenty  minutes,  then  skim  it  clear,  and  take  out  the  faggot. 
Then  add  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  French  mustard,  and  when  well 
mixed  add  one  dozen  cold  boiled  sliced  Potatoes,  and  when  thor- 
oughly warmed,  serve. 

STEWED    POTATOES,    WITH   BACON. 

No.  1166. — Put  into  a  saucepan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bacon  cut 
into  slices  about  an  inch  long.  Fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  to  it  two 
soup-spoonfuls  of  flour  and  cook  it  to  a  light  brown  while  stirring 
it  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Dilute  this  with  half  a  pint  of  broth,  and 
when  it  boils  add  one  dozen  sliced  Potatoes  and  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished  with  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  one  bay  leaf.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  when 
the  Potatoes  must  be  cooked.  Take  out  the  faggot  and  serve. 

HASHED    POTATOES,    WITH   CREAM, 

No.  1167. — Hashed  Potatoes  are  not  chopped;  they  are  boiled 
Potatoes,  thinly  sliced  and  then  cut  into  small  squares.  Cut  half 
a  dozen  boiled  Potatoes  as  above  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  cup  of  cream.  Set  them  on  a  brisk  fire  and  when  the  moist- 
ure is  half  reduced,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg  (if 
desired)  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  well  together  off  of  the 
fire  until  the  butter  is  melted.  When  serving  sprinkle  a  little  finely 
chopped  parsley  over  them. 

NOTE. — A  spoonful  of  Cream  sauce  may  be  added.  If  this  is  done,  moisten  with  less  cream  in  the 
first  place. 

HASHED   POTATOES,   BROWNED. 

No.  1168. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1167,  moisten  them  with 
two  spoonfuls  of  cream  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  When 
the  moisture  is  nearly  reduced  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  spoonful 


270  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

of  Cream  sauce.  Mix  them  well  together.  Put  into  an  omelet 
pan  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  when  melted  add  the  Potatoes, 
letting  them  brown  slowly.  Gather  the  Potatoes  and  shape  them 
nicely  in  the  pan  like  an  omelet.  Then  turn  them  on  to  a  dish 
and  serve. 

BAKED  HASHED  POTATOES,  WITH  CREAM. 

No.  1169. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1167,  and  when  the 
cream  is  nearly  reduced,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Toss  them  well 
together,  put  them  into  a  buttered  baking  dish,  sprinkle  fresh 
bread  crumbs  over  them  and  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  top.  Wipe 
off  the  borders  and  place  them  in  a;i  oven  to  bake  to  a  nice  brown. 

BAKED   POTATOES   WITH   SALT   HERRINGS,  BERLIN   STYLE. 

No.  1170.  Boil  one  dozen  peeled  Potatoes,  cut  them  in  slices 
and  season  with  salt.  Then  select  three  fine  pickled  herrings, 
wash,  skin  and  bone  them.  Then  cut  them  into  scollops  and  soak 
them  in  milk. 

Slice  two  white  onions  finely,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  them  slowly,  not  letting  them  get  browned, 
and  then  add  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Let  it  cook  a  few  min- 
utes while  stirring  it,  and  dilute  it  with  cream  or  boiled  milk,  so  as 
to  have  a  thick  sauce.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  add  a 
few  drops  of  meat  glaze,  and  cook  it  slowly  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Butter  a  deep  baking  dish,  put  a  layer  of  the  sliced  Potatoes  in  it. 
Cover  them  with  the  sauce  and  add  a  layer  of  the  scolloped  herring. 
Alternate  thus  until  the  dish  is  full,  and  have  the  top  layer  of 
Potatoes.  Cover  them  with  the  sauce,  and  over  this  sprinkle 
some  fresh  bread  crumbs,  adding  some  small  pieces  of  butter  over 
the  top.  Wipe  off  the  borders  and  bake  it  slowly  for  twenty 
minutes. 

BAKED  POTATOES,  CARLSRUHE  STYLE. 

No.  1171. — These  are  prepared  the  same  as  those  in  No.  1170, 
except  that  the  herrings  should  be  omitted,  using  scollops  of 
smoked  lamb  or  pig's  tongue,  and  sliced  breakfast  sausages  instead. 

BAKED  POTATOES  WITH  ANCHOVIES. 

No.  1172. — Peel,  boil  and  slice  one  dozen  Potatoes  and  season 
them  with  salt.  Wash  half  a  pound  of  Anchovies  and  remove  the 
skin  and  bones.  Cut  six  hard-boiled  eggs  in  quarters.  Then  butter 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OP  TASTE.  271 

a  deep  baking  dish  tLickly,  place  a  layer  of  the  sliced  Potatoes  in 
the  bottom  and  moisten  it  with  sour  cream.  On  this  put  a  layer  of 
the  eggs  and  Anchovy,  alternating  in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Have  a  layer  of  Potatoes  on  top,  moisten  it  with  sour  cream,, 
and  sprinkle  raspings  of  bread  on  top,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter. 
Wipe  off  the  borders  and  bake  it  for  fifteen  minutes. 

BOILED  POTATOES,  ITALIAN  STYLE. 

No.  1173. — Chop  one  large,  white  onion  finely,  put  it  into  a. 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  two 
soup-spoonfuls  of  flour  and  let  it  cook  for  five  minutes  while  stirring 
it.  Dilute  this  with  a  pint  of  cream  to  make  a  thick  Cream  sauce, 
cooking  it  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Then  add  two  spoonfuls  of  finely 
cut,  lean  ham,  two  spoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  the- 
yolks  of  four  hard  boiled  eggs  chopped  fine,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Slice  from  two  to  three  dozen  boiled  new  Potatoes, 
and  put  a  layer  of  them  in  a  deep-buttered  baking  dish.  Cover 
them  with  the  sauce  and  proceed  in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  on  top,  adding  some  small  pieces  of 
butter.  Wipe  off  the  borders  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty-five  minutes. 

NOTE.— Anchovies  or  finely  sliced  smoked  sausages  may  be  laid  between  the  layers  of  Potatoes 
if  desired. 

POTATOES   TOSSED   IN   BUTTER   (SAUTE.) 

No.  1174. — Slice  half  a  dozen  boiled  Potatoes  and  put  them  into 
a  frying  pan  with  two  spoonfuls  of  clarified  butter.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  toss  them  over  a  brisk  fire  until  nicely  browned. 
Before  serving,  add  some  finely  chopped  parsley. 

POTATOES,    LYONNAISE. 

No.  1175. — Cut  an  onion  in  half,  trim  oft*  the  ends,  and  slice  it 
finely.  Pat  it  into  a  frying  pan  with  two  spoonfuls  of  clarified 
butter,  and  fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  half  a  dozen  sliced  boiled 
Potatoes  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  toss  them  over 
the  fire  until  nicely  browned,  and  before  serving  add  a  little  finely 
chopped  parsley. 

POTATOES   TOSSED,  (  SAUTE)    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1176. — Prepare  half  a  dozen  sliced  boiled  new  Potatoes 
as  in  No.  1175,  using  sweet  oil  instead  of  butter,  and  in  place  of 
onions  use  finely  chopped  shallots.  When  the  Potatoes  are  nicely 


272  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

browned,  add  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley  and  two  spoonfuls  of 
well  reduced  veal  broth.  Toss  them  well  over  the  fire  and  serve 
hot. 

POTATOES  SAUTE,  HOLLANDAISE. 

No.  1177. — Cut  half  a  dozen  boiled  Potatoes  into  quarters  and 
trim  them.  Then  put  them  into  a  frying  pan  with  some  clarified 
butter  or  goose  grease.  Fry  them  slowly,  and  when  they  are 
nicely  browned  drain  off  the  butter  or  goose  grease,  and  add  the 
juice  of  one  lemon  and  some  fine  chopped  parsley. 

BROILED   POTATOES. 

No.  1178. — Slice  half  a  dozen  cold  boiled  Potatoes  in  pieces  half 
an  inch  thick,  and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  dip  them 
into  clarified  butter,  and  arrange  them  on  a  double  broiler.  Broil 
them  on  both  sides  over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  they  are  done  dish 
them  up  with  a  piece  of  butter.  A  little  finely  chopped  parsley,  and 
a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  may  be  mixed  with  the  butter. 

BAKED  POTATOES. 

No.  1179. — Wash  two  dozen  Potatoes  and  have  them  as  nearly 
equal  in  size  as  possible.  Put  them  on  a  pan  and  place  it  in  the  oven 
to  bake.  Turn  them  occasionally,  and  when  done  serve  them  in  a 
napkin,  with  some  fresh  butter  separate. 

BAKED   NEW   POTATOES. 

No.  1180. — Wash  and  clean  two  dozen  new  Potatoes  in  the  same 
manner  as  for  boiling.  Put  them  into  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter,  and  put  it  in  the  oven  to  bake.  Toss  them  over  occasion- 
ally, and  when  done  add  a  little  salt  (care  must  be  taken  not  to  let 
the  butter  get  burnt).  When  roasting  them  with  a  loin  of  veal  or 
lamb,  add  the  Potatoes  when  the  meat  is  about  three-quarters 
done.  They  may  be  served  as  a  vegetable  or  used  for  garnishing. 

MASHED   POTATOES. 

No.  1181. — To  have  good  mashed  Potatoes,  only  white  and  mealy 
ones  should  be  used.  New  Potatoes,  or  those  that  are  watery, 
should  not  be  used.  Boil  or  steam  the  Potatoes.  When  boiled 
drain  off  the  water  and  set  them  on  the  fire  again  to  dry.  Then 
pound  them  through  a  fine  colander  while  they  are  hot,  and  add 
salt,  white  pepper  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Work  them  well  with  a  • 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE  273 

wooden  spoon,  and  add  some  boiled  milk  slowly,  so  as  to  have  them 
of  the  proper  consistency.  When  they  are  to  be  kept  for  a  little 
time,  cover  the  surface  with  some  butter  or  milk,  which  will  prevent 
their  getting  dry  before  using.  They  should  be  light, "white,  and 
creamy. 

BAKED  MASHED   POTATOES. 

No.  1182. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1181,  adding  a  little 
less  milk.  Put  them  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  and  arrange  them 
in  shape  nicely  with  a  knife.  Baste  them  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw 
egg  diluted  in  milk,  wipe  the  borders,  and  then  bake  them. 

BAKED   MASHED   POTATOES   WITH   SPINACH,    FRANKFURT   STYLE. 

No.  1183. — When  the  Potatoes  are  prepared,  as  in  No.  1182,  add 
a  quarter  of  their  quantity  of  finely  chopped  cooked  spinach,  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Mix  them  well  together  and 
put  them  into  a  buttered  baking  dish.  Sprinkle  some  fresh  bread 
crumbs  and  a  piece  of  butter  over  the  top,  and  bake  them  slowly. 

BAKED  MASHED  POTATOES  WITH  HAM,  BUCKEYE  STYLE. 

No.  1184. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1182.  Put  into  a 
saucepan  a  piece  of  butter,  two  finely  chopped  shallots  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  ham.  Toss  them  lightly  over 
the  fire  and  add  them  to  the  Potatoes,  with  a  little  finely  chopped 
parsley.  Mix  them  well  together,  put  them  into  a  buttered  baking 
dish,  and  finish  as  in  No.  1183. 

POTATO  CROQUETTES. 

No.  1185. — Boil  one  dozen  peeled  Potatoes.  When  done,  drain 
them  and  pound  them  through  a  fine  colander,  add  a  piece  of 
butter  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Mix  them  well 
together  while  adding  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs.  Put  this 
preparation  on  a  floured  table  and  form  them  into  any  Croquette 
shapes  desired.  Then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread  them  in 
raspings  of  bread  or  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard, 
then  drain  them  and  dish  them  up  in  a  napkin,  with  fried  parsley 
to  garnish  on  each  end. 

POTATOES,    DUCHESSE. 

No.    1186. — Prepare   the   Potatoes   as   in    No.    1185,   adding    a 
little   boiled  milk   while  mixing  them.     Put  the  preparation   on 
a   floured  table   and  roll  it  into  cork  shapes   three  inches  long 
18 


274  HAEDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKEKY. 

Then  flatten  them  with  a  knife  to  one  inch  in  thickness,  and 
arrange  them  in  a  buttered  and  floured  pan.  Impress  any  design 
desired  on  the  top  of  each,  and  baste  them  with  a  brush  dipped 
in  milk  diluted  with  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg.  Ten  minutes  before 
using  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  to  a  nice  brown,  and  then  dish  them 
up  in  a  napkin  or  as  a  garniture  with  fish. 

POTATOES   STUFFED,    SUEPEISE. 

No.  1187.— Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1185.  Put  the 
preparation  on  a  floured  table,  divide  it  into  parts,  and  roll 
them  into  balls  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  Then  flatten  them 
out  and  fill  the  center  of  each  one  with  a  puree  of  green  peas,  or 
artichokes.  Gather  up  the  sides  to  keep  the  puree  in  the 
center,-  and  roll  the  Potatoes  into  the  shape  of  pears  (care  must  be 
taken  to  have  them  well  closed  and  smooth).  Set  them  on  a  floured 
pan,  fry  them  in  hot  lard,  and  handle  them  very  carefully.  Drain 
them  on  a  napkin,  and  in  dishing  them  place  into  the  small  end  of 
each,  a  green  stem  of  parsley  to  imitate  a  pear  stem. 

POTATO   BALLS,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1188. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1186.  Then  put 
the  preparation  on  a  floured  table,  roll  it  out  into  balls,  then 
flatten  them  a  little  and  flour  them  lightly.  Put  a  little  clarified 
butter  in  a  frying  pan,  and  when  it  is  warm  add  the  Potato  cakes. 
Fry  them  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  browned  on  both  sides  dish  them 
up.  Serve  them  for  breakfast  or  lunch. 

POTATO   BALLS,    MAEGOT   STYLE. 

No.  1189. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1185.  Add  an 
equal  quantity  of  finely  chopped  braised  veal,  beef  or  lamb. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley 
and  some  finely  chopped  onions,  lightly  fried  in  butter.  Mix  them 
well  together  and  roll  them  into  balls.  Then  flatten  them  a  little, 
dip  them  into  some  beaten  eggs,  flour  them,  and  fry  them  in  hot 
lard.  Serve  them  on  a  napkin,  with  fried  parsley  to  garnish. 

POTATOES,  CONVENT,  OE  PELEEINE  STYLE. 

No.  1190. — Slice  four  medium  sized  white  onions,  detach  all  the 
circles,  and  put  them  into  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter. 
Fry  them  to  a  light  color  (care  being  taken  not  to  let  the  butter 
burn),  then  add  six  sliced  boiled  Potatoes.  Toss  them  over  a  brisk 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  275 

fire  until  thoroughly  warmed,  and  then  add  a  cup  of  boiled  cream 
and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  let  them 
simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  with 
some  finely  chopped  parsley,  toss  them  well  over  until  the  butter  is 
melted,  and  then  serve.  The  best  new  Potatoes  should  be  used  in 
order  to  properly  appreciate  this  delicious  dish. 

POTATOES,   DAUPHINE. 

No.*  1191. — Bake  one  dozen  Potatoes,  scoop  out  the  center,  and 
while  they  are  hot  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Then  prepare  them 
the  same  as  in  No.  1185.  Roll  them  out  on  a  floured  table  into 
pieces  two  inches  long  and  one  inch  thick.  Eoll  the  ends  to  a 
point,  and  with  a  knife  put  any  design  that  may  be  desired  upon 
them.  Place  them  into  a  buttered  baking  dish  and  baste  them 
with  a  small  brush  dipped  into  a  little  milk  diluted  with  the  yolk 
of  one  raw  egg.  Bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  five  minutes,  and 
when  ready,  serve. 

FRIED  POTATOES,  SARATOGA  CHIPS. 

No.  1192. — Peel  and  wash  the  Potatoes,  and  slice  them  finely 
with  a  knife  or  cutter  made  for  this  purpose.  Keep  them  in  cold 
water,  and  when  ready  to  fry,  drain  them.  Then  throw  them  into 
hot  lard  and  let  them  fry  crisp.  Drain  them  on  a  napkin,  season 
them  with  a  little  salt,  and  serve  them  hot.  Fried  Potatoes  of  any 
kind  should  be  served  as  soon  as  fried,  and  must  always  be  hot 
when  served. 

FRIED  POTATOES,  LONG  BRANCH  STYLE. 

No.  1193. — Use  large  Potatoes  which  have  no  core.  Peel  and 
wash  them,  and  cut  them  with  a  cutter  made  expressly  for  this 
purpose  (sometimes  called  shoo-fly).  They  will  resemble  macaroni 
stems.  Keep  them  in  cold  water  until  ready  for  frying,  then  drain 
them  and  fry  them  in  a  deep  frying  pan,  with  plenty  of  lard. 
When  fried,  drain  them  on  a  napkin  to  absorb  the  grease,  and  add 
a  little  salt.  One  Potato  cut  in  this  style  will  make  as  large  a  dish 
full  as  three  in  any  other  way.  All  fried  Potatoes  should  be 
served  on  napkins. 

FRIED  POTATOES,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  1194. — -When  the  Potatoes  are  peeled,  slice  them  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then  cut  them  into  sticks  of  about  the 
same  thickness.  Fry  them  as  in  No.  1192. 


276  HAKDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

FRIED  POTATOES,  JULIENNE  STYLE. 

No.  1195. — The  Potatoes  are  cut  as  in  No.  1194,  but  much  finer, 
and  fried  as  in  No.  1192. 

FRIED   POTATOES,    PARISIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1196. — With  a  spoon  cutter  made  for  the  purpose,  cut  out  of 
two  dozen  peeled  Potatoes,  some  round  pieces  about  the  size  of  a 
large  marble.  Keep  them  in  cold  water  until  ready  for  use..  Then 
fry  them  in  hot  lard  until  three-quarters  done,  and  drain  them  on  a 
napkin.  Then  put  them  into  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter 
and  finish  cooking  them.  Then  add  a  little  salt  and  some  finely 
chopped  parsley,  toss  them  well  over,  drain  off  the  butter,  and 
servo  them. 

POTATOES,  BRABANT  STYLE. 

No.  1197. — Scoop  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1196,  then  boil  or  steam 
them  until  they  are  three-quarters  done.  Then  put  them  into  a 
flat  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  them  lightly  until  nicely 
cooked  and  colored.  Then  drain  off  the  butter  and  add  four  spoon- 
fuls of  white  Soubise  sauce,  toss  them  well  over,  add  a  little  salt, 
and  serve  them  immediately. 

POTATOES,    CHATEAUBRIAND. 

No.  1198. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1197,  and  when  they 
are  nicely  browned  drain  off  the  butter  and  add  a  piece  of  fresh 
butter,  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley,  some  salt,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  and  a  few  drops  of  meat  glaze.  Toss  them  well  over  the  fire 
and  serve.  They  are  also  served  with  a  double  tenderloin  steak, 
which  bears  the  same  name. 

POTATOES  SOUFFLE   (PUFFED). 

No.  1199. — Peel  half  a  dozen  medium  sized  Potatoes,  slice  them 
about  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Fry  them  in  lard  that 
is  not  too  hot,  and  when  they  are  soft  drain  them  and  put  them  into 
another  pan  with  hot  lard.  Turn  them  with  a  skimmer  constantly, 
and  when  they  are  nicely  browned,  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  add  a 
little  salt,  and  serve  them  in  a  napkin. 

POTATO   PUREE,    JACKSON   STYLE. 

No.  1200. — Bake  two  dozen  Potatoes,  scoop  out  the  center  and 
pound  them  through  a  fine  colander.  Add  a  piece  cf  butter,  season 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE,  277 

with  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  with  veal  broth,  and,  when  well  mixed, 
dish  them  up  with  boneless  sardines  over  them. 

POTATO   CAKE. 

No.  1201. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1185,  but  instead 
of  seasoning  with  salt,  add  some  powdered  sugar  to  sweeten, 
and  some  vanila  or  lemon  flavor.  When  the  preparation  is  cool 
add  the  white  of  five  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth.  Then  put  it  into  a 
buttered  mould,  sprinkle  the  top  with  some  bread  crumbs  and  bake 
in  an  oven. 

POTATOES   FOE   GAKNITUEE. 

No.  1202. — The  boiled  new  Potatoes,  or  the  Parisian  when  boiled, 
are  served  as  a  garniture  for  fish.  The  Croquettes,  Duchesse, 
Surprise,  Dauphine,  Parisian,  Chateaubriand,  and  Pured,  are 
served  with  entrees  and  joints,  or  for  large  garniture  for  fish. 

The  Saute',  Lyonnaise,  Chateaubriand,  mashed  and  fried  potatoes, 
are  served  with  broiled  meats. 

POTATO  FLOUE  (FECULE). 

No.  1203. — This  can  be  obtained  from  all  first-class  grocers,  and 
is  used  the  same  as  arrowroot  for  invalids,  and  also  in  making 
griddle  cakes,  soups,  custards,  etc.  Should  necessity  require  it, 
the  following  recipe  will  be  found  very  useful  for  making  it  in  small 
quantities. 

Peel  and  wash  one  dozen  white  farinaceous  Potatoes,  and  rub 
them  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into  a  basin  of  cold  water,  keeping 
the  Potato  always  moist  with  water.  Then  set  the  basin  aside  to 
settle  for  two  hours,  after  which  drain  the  water  off  slowly,  leaving 
the  Potato  flour  in  the  bottom  of  the  basin.  If  the  flour  is  to  be 
kept  it  must  be  dried. 

POTATO  BALLS  FOE  SOUPS  (QUENELLES). 

No.  1204. — Bake  half  a  dozen  Potatoes,  and  when  done  cut  them 
in  halves,  scoop  out  the  centre  and  rub  them,  while  hot,  through  a 
sieve.  Then  put  the  puree  in  a  pan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  half 
a  cupful  of  cream.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Put 
the  saucepan  on  a  brisk  fire  and  stir  the  puree  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon  until  it  becomes  a  paste  (the  same  as  a  Panade).  Then  take 
it  off  of  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  a  little  cold  add  the  yolks  of  four  or 
five  raw  eggs  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  and  mix 
them  gently.  Poach  a  little  of  this  preparation,  to  see  that  it  has 


'278  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

the  proper  consistency,  and  if  found  satisfactory,  roll  the  mixture 
on  a  floured  table  into  small  balls  (Quenelles),  and  poach  them  in 
white  broth,  lightly  salted.  Serve  them  in  soup  as  required. 

SOUp — PUREE   OF   POTATOES,    WITH    CEEAM,    PAEMENTIEE. 

No.  1205. — Pare  one  dozen  medium  sized  Potatoes,  cut  them  in 
slices  and  put  them  in  a  pan  with  cold  water.  Slice  the  white  part 
of  three  leeks  and  two  onions  finely,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  three  quarts  of 
white  broth,  and  when  it  boils,  drain  the  water  off  the  Potatoes  and 
add  them  to  the  Soup  with  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  cel- 
ery, and  a  few  pepper-corns.  Season  with  salt,  let  it  boil  slowly 
until  the  Potatoes  are  cooked,  skim  it  well,  take  out  the  faggot  and 
rub  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  back  in  the  saucepan, 
set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  slowly,  and  add  a  little  broth  if  necessary, 
stirring  it  until  it  boils;  after  fifteen  minutes,  skim  it  well  and  set 
it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  keep  warm.  Before  serving,  add  six 
ounces  of  butter  divided  into  small  pieces,  and  half  a  pint  of 
cream  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  Mix  it  well  until 
the  butter  is  melted.  Put  it  into  a  soup-tureen  with  a  little  finely 
chopped  chervil,  and  serve  some  small  fried  bread  crumbs  sep- 
arate. 

SOUP — PUREE   OF  POTATOES,    JACKSON   STYLE. 

No.  1206. — Take  two  onions,  one  stalk  of  celery,  and  the  white 
part  of  two  leeks.  Slice  them  finely,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  t\vo  quarts  of 
beef  broth,  and  when  it  boils  add  one  dozen  medium  sized  sliced 
Potatoes,  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished  with  a  sprig  of  thyme  and 
a  few  pepper-corns.  Season  with  salt,  cover  the  saucepan,  and  let 
it  boil  slowly  until  the  Potatoes  are  thoroughly  cooked.  Then  take 
out  the  faggot,  rub  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  back 
into  the  saucepan,  add  three  pints  of  thickened  chicken  or  veal 
broth,  and  stir  it  until  it  boils.  Season  to  taste,  let  it  boil  slowly 
for  fifteen  minutes,  skim  it  well,  and  set  it  in  a  hot  water  bath  to 
keep  warm.  Before  serving  add  a  large  piece  of  butter  and  a  glass 
of  cream.  Serve  a  plate  of  small  fried  bread  crumbs  separate. 

NOTE. — With  the  soups  described  in  Nos.  1205  and  1206,  finely  chopped  chives,  chervil,  or  parsley 
is  generally  added.  A  garniture  of  green  peas,  green  asparagus  tops,  or  Potato  balls  (as  described  in 
No.  1204)  may  also  be  added. 

POTATOES  FOR  BORDEES. 

No.  1207. — Pare  two  dozen  Potatoes  and  then  boil  or  steam  them. 
When  done  pound  them  through  a  colander,  add  a  piece  of  butter 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OP  TASTE.  279 

and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Mix  them  well  together 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  moisten  them  with  a  cup  of  milk.  Then 
add  the  yolks  of  five  raw  eggs,  mixing  them  well  with  the  Potatoes, 
butter  the  border  moulds  with  clarified  butter,  fill  them  carefully 
with  the  Potatoes,  smooth  the  tops,  and  put  them  in  the  oven  to 
bake  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  take  them  out  of  the  oven  and  let 
them  cool  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  pass  the  blade  of  a  knife 
between  the  Potatoes  and  the  mould,  turn  the  borders  on  a  dish 
and  remove  the  mould  carefully.  Then  brush  the  borders  with  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  diluted  with  a  few  drops  of  water.  Put  them  back 
in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  get  brown,  and  fill  the  center  with 
the  preparation  intended  for  the  border,  which  will  be  described 
hereafter. 

NOTE. — They  may  also  be  made  by  sprinkling  the  moulds  with  bread  crumbs  after  they  are 
buttered.  When  prepared  in  this  manner,  bake  them  for  twenty  minutes  and  they  will  be  ready  to 
serve.  When  making  the  Potato  borders  by  hand  prepare  the  Potatoes  as  above,  then  put  them 
on  a  floured  table  and  shape  them  in  rolls  long  enough  to  border  the  dish.  Have  the  border  about 
two  inches  thick.  Cut  a  carrot  diagonally,  dip  it  in  flour  and  then  make  an  impression  in  the  border 
with  it.  or  various  different  desigus  can  be  impressed  on  the  top.  In  this  way  the  borders  can  be 
made  more  attractive  than  when  made  in  mould.  Brush  the  borders  with  the  yolks  of  eggs  diluted 
with  a  little  water,  wipe  the  edges  clean  and  set  them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  get  nicely 
colored. 

POTATO   CRUSTS. 

No.  1208.— Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1185.  Then  put 
them  into  a  buttered  square  tin  pan  (having  them  an  inch  and  a  half 
thick),  smooth  the  top  evenly  and  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper. 
Then  set  them  aside  to  cool.  When  cold  turn  them  out  on  the 
table,  and  with  a  round  cutter  (the  size  of  a  dollar)  cut  them  out. 
Roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and 
bread  them  again.  Form  them  nicely,  and  with  a  cutter  (the  size 
of  a  twenty-five  cent  piece)  make  an  impression  on  the  tops  to  mark 
the  cover.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard,  and  when  nicely  colored  drain 
them,  and  in  a  few  minutes  remove  the  cover  and  scoop  out  the 
center,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  shell.  Then  fill  them  with 
the  desired  garniture,  after  which  they  take  their  name. 

NOTE.— Potatoes  in  this  style  are  often  called  Timbals  and  Pates. 

POTATO    SALAD. 

No.  1209. — Boil  some  Potatoes,  slice  them  finely  and  fill  a  soup 
plate  with  them.  Add  some  sweet  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  pepper,  a  few 
small  sliced  green  onions  and  three  spoonfuls  of  hot  water.  Then 
mix  them  all  together  and  serve  it  in  a  salad  bowl. 

POTATO   SALAD,    WITH   ANCHOVIES  OB   HERRINGS. 

No.  1210. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1209,  and  add  boned 
anchovies  or  herrings  cut  into  small  pieces.  Season  with  salt,  pep- 


280  HARDER 'S  AMERICAN   COOKERY, 

per,  two  spoonfuls  of  capers  and  finely  sliced  green  onions.    Arrange 
them  in  a  salad  bowl  and  garnish  with  pickled  beets. 

POTATO  SALAD,  WITH  TRUFFLES. 

No.  1211. — Cut  the  Potatoes  with  a  round  cutter  about  one  inch 
and  a  quarter  in  diameter.  Slice  them  finely  and  put  them  into  a 
salad  bowl  with  sliced  truffles  that  have  been  cooked  in  Madeira 
wine.  Cover  the  bowl  and  set  it  aside  for  one  hour.  Then  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  arrange  it  properly  and  garnish 
with  water  cress. 

POTATO  SALAD,  BENNETT  STYLE. 

No.  1212. — Cut  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1211,  and  put  them  in  a 
salad  bowl  with  four  or  six  finely  sliced  gherkins.  Rub  the  yolks  of 
two  hard  boiled  eggs  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  them  in  a  bowl  and 
add  a  tea-spoonful  of  mustard  flour  and  one  of  anchovie  paste,  some 
salt,  pepper  and  finely  chopped  chervil.  Dilute  this  with  oil 
and  vinegar,  mix  them  well  and  then  add  the  Potatoes.  Arrange 
them  nicely  in  a  salad  bowl  and  garnish  with  hard  boiled  eggs  cut 
in  halves,  and  some  sliced  truffles  that  have  been  cooked  in  Madeira 
wine. 

POTATO  SALAD,  WITH  ASPIC  JELLY,  CHARTREUSE. 

No.  1213. — Boil  two  dozen  firm,  solid  Potatoes;  those  that  are 
mealy  will  not  do  for  this  recipe.  They  must  be  thoroughly  cooked 
and  then  cooled.  Then  trim  them  into  pieces  about  one  or  one-half 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  after  this  cut  them  with  a  round  column  cut- 
ter, obtaining  as  many  perfect  pieces  as  possible.  Put  them  on  a 
napkin.  Have  some  broken  ice  in  a  pan  and  put  the  mould  in  it 
that  you  intend  filling.  Line  the  mould  with  a  coating  of  Aspic 
jelly  and  decorate  the  bottom  with  the  whites  of  hard  boiled  eggs 
and  some  capers  and  olives  in  the  shape  of  a  rosette.  Then  dip  the 
small  round  pieces  of  Potato  in  Aspic  jelly  and  arrange  them  nicely 
around  the  inside  of  the  mould  close  together,  to  form  a  solid  wall. 
(They  may  be  alternated  with  sliced  beets  or  gherkins.)  When 
this  is  done,  line  the  inside  again  with  Aspic  jelly  to  fill  up  the  in- 
terstices. 

Now  cut  some  hard  boiled  eggs  in  fine  slices,  place  them  in  the 
bottom  of  the  mould  over  the  rosette,  and  put  over  this  a  few  thin 
slices  of  beef  tongue  and  some  capers.  Pour  a  little  Aspic  jelly 
over  it  to  keep  it  firm. 

Cut  some  cold  boiled  Potatoes  in  thin  square  pieces  and  put  them 
in  a  salad  bowl.  Add  to  it  one-quarter  of  its  quantity  of  boned  sar- 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  281 

dines,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  a  few  capers.  Now  make  a  Mayon- 
naise dressing  with  Aspic  jelly  (see  Book  on  Sauces).  Season  it 
highly.  Mix  it  with  the  Potatoes  quickly,  before  the  dressing  be- 
comes hard,  and  put  the  mixture  in  the  mould  to  fill  it.  Then 
smooth  off  the  surface  evenly  and  keep  the  mould  in  a  cool  place 
until  ready  to  use  it.  When  ready  to  serve  it,  dip  the  mould  in 
lukewarm  water,  dry  it  with  a  napkin,  turn  it  over  on  a  dish  and 
remove  the  mould  carefully. 

NOTE. — This  can  be  garnished  with  a  variety  of  vegetables,  and  its  success  depends  altogether 
iipon  the  care  taken  in  preparing  it.  It  may  be  filled  with  mixed  vegetables,  but  they  must  be  dried 
thoroughly  before  using.  Care  must  be  taken  in  making  the  Aspic  Mayonnaise,  which  should  be 
seasoned  well.  Only  fresh  and  tender  vegetables  should  be  used. 


French  PUMPKIN.  German 

Potiron  gourge  ou  Citrouille.  Kurbis. 

No.  1214. — The  Pumpkin  is  now  rarely  used  as  a  vegetable,  having 
been  superseded  by  the  squash,  which  being  finer  grained  and  more 
highly  flavored,  is  more  acceptable.  The  Pumpkin,  however, 
retains  its  popularity  when  prepared  for  use  in  pies.  Some  varieties 
grow  to  an  immense  size,  and  when  dry  are  cut  into  the  shape  of 
buckets,  baskets,  and  a  variety  of  ornamental  things. 

CULTUKE. 

No.  1215. — Pumpkins  are  generally  raised  on  cultivated  ground, 
between  hills  of  corn  or  potatoes,  but  they  may  be  raised  profitably 
in  fields  by  themselves. 

LAKGE   YELLOW. 

No.  1216. — This  grows  to  a  large  size,  and  is  well  adapted  for 
cooking  purposes.  It  is  irregular  in  shape  and  size,  being  depressed 
and  flattened  at  the  ends;  others  are  round  or  elongated.  It  has 
a  deep,  rich,  yellow  color,  is  finely  grained,  and  has  an  excellent 
flavor. 

CUSHAN. 

No.  1217. — This  is  a  great  favorite  in  the  Southern  States,  but  is 
too  tender  for  general  cultivation  in  a  Northern  climate.  It  is  very 


282  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

productive,  grows  to  a  large  size,  and  somewhat  resembles  the 
winter  crooked-neck  squash.  It  is  of  a  light  cream  color,  sometimes 
streaked  with  green,  and  the  flesh  is  of  a  salmon  color. 

SWEET   SUGAR   PUMPKIN. 

No.  1218. — This  is  a  good  cooking  variety,  being  unsurpassed  for 
use  in  pies.  It  grows  to  an  immense  size,  often  weighing  over  a 
hundred  pounds.  It  is  oblong  in  shape,  having  a  mottled  light 
green  and  yellow  skin,  with  thick,  sweet,  tender,  yellow  flesh,  and 
large  seeds. 

NANTUCKET. 

No.  1219. — This  is  small  or  medium  in  size,  and  somewhat  oblong 
or  bell-shaped.  The  thick,  deep  green  skin  is  faintly  ribbed,  and 
more  or  less  covered  with  prominent  wart-like  excrescences.  The 
flesh  is  thick,  yellow,  finely  grained,  and  has  an  excellent  flavor. 

PUMPKIN   DIET   DRINK    (TISANE). 

No.  1220. — Put  four  ounces  of  dried  Pumpkin  seeds  in  an  earthen 
jar,  and  pour  a  pint  of  boiling  water  over  them.  Let  it  steep  for 
twenty  minutes  and  then  take  half  a  cupful  at  a  time.  It  will  be 
found  beneficial  for  strangury  and  kindred  complaints. 

NOTE.—  Paraloy  roots  well  washed,  scraped  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  will  do  for  the  same 
purpose. 

BAKED   PUMPKIN,   VERMONT    STYLE. 

No.  1221. — Cut  a  ripe  Pumpkin  in  quarters,  take  out  the  seeds, 
pare  off  the  rind  and  then  cut  it  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick.     Put 
it  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  moisten  it   with  four  spoonfuls  of 
water,  and  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  to  bake.     When  cooked  butter  ' 
each  piece  and  serve  them  hot. 

MASHED  PUMPKIN. 

No.  1222.  Cut  a  ripe  pumpkin  in  halves,  take  out  the  seeds, 
pare  off  the  rind  and  then  cut  it  into  scallops.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  and  let  it  boil  until  tender. 
Then  drain  it  and  pound  it  through  a  fine  colander.  Put  it  back  in 
the  saucepan,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and,  when  thoroughly  warnij  serve  it. 

SOUP — CREAM  OF  PUMPKINS. 

No.  1223. — Cut  a  ripe  Pumpkin  into  quarters,  take  out  the  seeds, 
pare  off  the  rind  and  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Boil  them  in 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  283 

lightly  salted  water,  and  when  done  drain  them  in  a  colander. 
Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  sugar  and  nutmeg  and  let  them  simmer  for  ten  min- 
utes, stirring  them  occasionally.  Then  add  three  quarts  of 
thickened  chicken  or  veal  broth,  and  when  it  boils  add  a  faggot  of 
parsley  garnished  with  celery,  onions  and  leeks.  Let  it  boil  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  then  skim  it  well,  remove  the  faggot  and  rub  the 
soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  the  puree  in  a  saucepan  to 
keep  it  warm,  and  when  ready  to  serve  it,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and 
a  pint  of  cream,  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  Mix  them 
well  together  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve  with  some  small 
fried  bread  crumbs  on  a  separate  plate. 


ARTICLE  CLXIV. 


French  PLJRSLAIN  Germ.<ui 

Pourpier.  Portulak. 

No.  1224. — Purslain  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  the  cultivated 
varieties  of  which  are  an  improvement  over  the  common  Purslain. 
The  stem  is  tender  and  succulent,  and  is  usually  about  one  foot  in 
length.  The  leaves  are  fleshy,  broad  and  round,  tapering  at  the 
ends.  The  plant  may  be  cut  for  use  when  about  five  inches  high, 
and  is  pickled,  or  may  be  boiled  the  same  way  as  spinach. 

COMMON  PUESLAIN. 

No.  1225. — This  kind  grows  abundantly  in  gardens  and  cultivated 
fields.  The  green  and  the  golden  Purslain  are  improved  sub- 
varieties,  and  though  considered  more  succulent  than  the  common 
Purslain,  they  will  hardly  repay  one  for  the  trouble  of  cultivating 
them,  the  difference  in  quality  being  very  slight.  The  common 
variety  is  the  kind  in  general  use.  Sow  it  in  shallow  drills,  at  any 
time  from  April  to  July.  It  thrives  well  in  any  soil. 


ARTICLE  CLXV. 


RADISH. 

Radis.  Rettig. 

No.  1226. — The  Radish  is  cultivated  for  its  roots,  which  should 
always  be  eaten  in  their  raw  state  when  quite  young,  as  they  are 


284  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

apt  to  be  pithy  and  tough  when  full  grown.  The  young  leaves  are 
used  as  a  small  salad,  and  the  green  seed  pods  for  pickling.  The 
roots  are  served  as  a  relish  with  salt,  butter  and  bread. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1227. — A  warm,  sandy  loam,  made  rich  and  light  by 
well  rotted  manure,  with  a  liberal  dressing  of  salt,  will  keep  them 
free  from  worms.  Sow  the  seed  in  twelve  inch  drills  as  early  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked,  once  in  two  weeks  for  a  succession  of  crops. 
Thin  them  to  two  inches  apart  as  soon  as  the  raw  leaves  appear. 
Radishes  must  have  plenty  of  room  and  should  be  grown  quickly 
or  they  will  invariably  be  tough  and  wormy. 

SPRING   AND   SUMMER  RADISHES. 

No.  1228. — These  varieties  are  all  comparatively  hardy,  and  may 
be  sown  in  open  ground,  early  in  spring,  when  the  soil  is  in  good 
working  condition. 

OBLONG  RROWN. 

No.  1229. — The  oblong  brown  Eadish  has  a  pear-shaped  bulb, 
with  an  elongated  top  root,  and  does  not  grow  particularly  large. 
The  flesh  is  white,  hard  and  piquant  in  taste. 

OLIVE-SHAPED   SCARLET. 

No.  1230. — The  bulb  is  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  three-fourths  of 
an  inch  in  diameter,  oblong  and  somewhat  in  the  form  of  an  olive. 
The  skin  is  of  a  fine  scarlet  color,  and  the  flesh  is  rose  colored* 
tender  and  excellent. 

SCARLET  TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No.  1231. — The  bulb  is  spherical  and  measures  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter in  perfection.  The  skin  is  of  a  deep  scarlet  color,  and  the 
flesh  is  crisp  and  tender. 

LONG   SCARLET. 

No.  1232. — This  variety  is  largely  cultivated.  The  root  is  long, 
a  considerable  portion  of  it  growing  above  the  ground.  The  skin 
is  of  a  pink  color,  and  the  flesh  is  white,  crisp  and  of  good  flavor, 
though  less  pungent  than  the  scarlet  turnip-rooted. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  285 

LONG  WHITE. 

No.  1233. — The  root  is  long  and  slender,  similar  to  the  long 
scarlet.  The  skin  is  white,  but  becomes  tinged  with  green  when 
exposed  to  the  light.  The  flesh  is  white,  crisp  and  mild,  and  forms 
a  nice  contrast  when  served  with  the  red  varieties 

LONG   WHITE,  PURPLE  TOP, 

No.  1234. — This  is  a  sub-variety  of  the  long  white;  the  portion  of 
the  root  above  ground  being  tinged  with  purple. 

SMALL   YELLOW   TUENIP-EOOTED. 

No.  1235. — The  root  is  similar  to  that  of  the  scarlet  turnip  rooted. 
The  skin  is  smooth  and  yellow,  and  the  flesh  is  white,  crisp,  finely 
grained  and  rather  pungent. 

WHITE   CROOKED. 

No.  1236. — The  root  is  very  long,  being  sometimes  over  twelve 
inches  in  length,  and  an  inch  in  diameter,  nearly  cylindrical,  often 
irregular,  and  sometimes  assuming  a  spiral  or  cork-screw  shape. 
The  skin  is  white  and  smooth,  and  the  flesh  is  white  and  pungent, 
but  not  as  fine  as  many  of  the  other  varieties. 

YELLOW  TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No.  1237. — The  bulb  is  nearly  spherical,  but  tapers  slightly 
towards  the  top  root,  which  is  slender.  It  grows  large,  but  should 
be  eaten  when  young  and  about  an  inch  in  diameter.  The  skin  is 
of  a  yellowish-brown  color,  and  the  flesh  is  white,  crisp  and  mild. 

LONG   SALMON. 

No.  1238. — This  is  similar  to  the  scarlet  variety  and  appears 
about  the  same  time. 

LONG  PURPLE. 

No.  1239. — The  root  is  long,  considerable  of  it  growing  above  the 
ground.  The  skin  is  deep  purple  in  color,  and  the  flesh  is  white, 
and  of  good  flavor.  If  the  seeds  are  sown  in  drills,  the  same  as 
mustard,  they  will  bring  forth  large  green  leaves,  which  can  be  used 
in  small  salads. 


286  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

EARLY   BLACK.. 

No.  1240. — The  bulb  is  nearly  spherical,  but  tapers  slightly,  being 
similar  to  the  gray  turnip-rooted.  The  skin  is  rough,  wrinkled, 
and  of  a  dull  black  color,  and  the  flesh  is  white,  solid  and  piquant 
in  flavor. 

EARLY   LONG   PURPLE. 

No.  1241. — This  is  a  small  and  early  sub-variety  of  the  long 
purple. 

EARLY    SCARLET   TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No.  1242. — The  bulb  is  spherical,  though  flattened  slightly,  and 
often  bursts  longitudinally  before  attaining  its  full  siza.  The  skin 
is  of  a  deep  scarlet  color,  and  the  flesh  is  rose  colored,  crisp,  mild 
and  pleasant. 

EARLY    WHITE  TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No.  1243. — This  is  an  excellent  variety,  similar  in  form  to  the 
scarlet-rooted,  but  smaller.  The  skin  and  flesh  is  white. 

GRAY   OLIVE-SHAPED. 

No.  1244. — This  is  similar  to  the  scarlet  olive-shaped.  The  skin 
is  gray  and  the  flesh  is  white,  crisp  and  well  flavored. 

GRAY   TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No.  1245. — This  is  generally  round,  though  sometimes  irregular 
in  shape.  It  grows  large  and  becomes  hollow,  and  therefore  should 
be  eaten  when  young.  The  skin  is  mottled  with  greenish-brown, 
and  is  often  marked  with  transverse  white  lines.  The  flesh  is  mild 
and  of  a  greenish-white  color,  but  not  very  solid. 

AUTUMN   AND   WINTER   RADISHES. 

No.  1246. — These  varieties  may  be  sown  from  the  middle  of  July 
to  the  middle  of  August.  The  soil  should  be  made  light  and  pliable 
and  should  be  watered  well  in  dry  weather.  Radishes  may  be 
obtained  in  September  and  October  direct  from  the  garden.  For 
winter  use  the  roots  should  be  harvested  before  the  ground  freezes, 
and  should  be  packed  in  earth  or  sand,  out  of  danger  from  frost. 
They  should  be  immersed  in  cold  water  before  being  used.  They 
are  served  as  salad,  the  same  as  the  spring  or  summer  varieties. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  287 

LARGE   PURPLE   WINTER. 

No.  1247. — This  is  a  sub-variety  of  the  black  Spanish,  and 
resembles  it  in  shape  and  character.  The  skin  at  first  is  black,  but 
when  washed  assumes  a  beautiful  purple  color. 

BLACK   SPANISH. 

No.  1248. — The  bulb  is  pear-shaped,  having  a  long  top  root, 
which  at  first  is  slender  and  somewhat  cylindrical  in  form,  it  swells, 
however,  as  it  advances  in  age,,  and  finally  attains  a  large  size, 
being  sometimes  ten  inches  in  length  and  four  inches  in  diameter. 
It  is  one  of  the  latest  and  hardiest  varieties,  being  excellent  for 
winter  use.  The  skin  is  rough  and  nearly  black,  and  the  flesh  is 
white,  solid  and  pungent. 

LONG   BLACK   WINTER. 

No.  1249.— A  small  sub-variety  of  the  black  Spanish.  The  root 
is  long  and  tapering. 

LONG-LEAVED   WHITE   CHINESE. 

No.  1250. — The  root  is  of  fusi-form,  about  five  inches  long  and 
an  inch  in  diameter.  The  skin  is  white  and  of  fine  texture,  and  the 
flesh  is  white,  crisp,  finely  grained  and  pungent. 

ROSE   COLORED   CHINESE. 

No.  1251. — The  bulb  is  somewhat  cylindrical  and  terminates  in 
a  long  slender  top  root.  The  skin  is  fine  and  of  a  light  rose  color, 
and  the  flesh  is  firm  and  piquant. 

WINTER   SPANISH. 

No,  1252. — This  variety  succeeds  best  in  light  sandy  soil.  The 
roots  are  somewhat  fusi-form,  though  sharply  conical  at  the  base. 
They  sometimes  measure  eight  inches  in  length,  and  three  inches  in 
diameter.  The  skin  is  white  and  wrinkled,  being  tinged  with 
purple  when  exposed  to  the  sun.  The  flesh  is  white,  solid  and 
pungent,  though  it  is  milder  than  that  of  the  black  Spanish. 

CALIFORNIA   MAMMOTH  WHITE   WINTER. 

No.  1253. — A  mammoth  white-fleshed  winter  Eadish  of  excellent 
quality. 


288  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

RED  RADISHES,  FOR  RELISHES. 

No.  1254. — Radishes  can  be  obtained  in  the  Southern  and  Pacific 
States  all  the  year  round  in  the  open  air,  and  may  also  be  obtained 
all  the  year  in  the  Northern  States  when  grown  in  hot-houses. 
Use  only  those  that  are  solid,  cut  off  the  green  top  leaves,  leaving 
only  the  small  ones  attached.  Then  scrape  or  slice  the  Radishes 
and  put  them  in  relish  dishes  on  finely  cracked  ice  or  in  cold  water. 

BLACK  RADISHES  FOR  RELISHES. 

No.  1255. — Peel  them  and  slice  them  finely.  Sprinkle  salt  over 
them  one  hour  before  serving,  then  press  out  the  moisture  and 
serve  them  in  small  relish  dishes. 

RADISHES  FOR  GARNITURE 

No.  1256. — Radishes  are  largely  used  for  garnishing  salads, 
being  cut  into  shapes  resembling  flowers.  The  black  Radishes  are 
used  in  green  salads. 

THE   OIL   RADISH. 

No.  1257. — This  is  a  variety  of  the  common  Radish,  principally 
cultivated  for  its  seeds,  which  yield  an  oil.  It  is  superior  to  the 
rape  seed  oil  and  is  more  difficult  to  extract.  It  is  cultivated 
extensively  in  China  and  the  Southern  States.  The  plant  produces 
more  seed  pods  than  the  common  Radish. 


ARTICLE  CLXVI. 


French  RAMPION.  German 

Raiponce.  Die  Rapunzd- 

No.  1258. — The  Rampion  is  a  biennial  plant,  the  wild  variety  be- 
ing known  as  the  Primrose.  The  leaves  are  long,  narrow  and 
pointed.  The  roots  are  white,  of  fusi-form,  and  fleshy,  somewhat 
resembling  the  turnip.  Both  the  leaves  and  roots  have  a  pleasant, 
nut-like  flavor,  and  are  generally  eaten  raw  as  a  salad,  when  young. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1259. — The  best  roots  are  obtained  from  a  rich,  loamy  soil, 
that  is  not  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun.     Sow  the  seeds  in 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  289 

/ 

April,  in  shallow  drills  that  are  ten  inches  apart,  and  when  they  are 
well  up  thin  them  to  four  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  When  the 
plant  runs  to  seed  the  roots  become  fibrous,  strongly  flavored,  and 
unfit  for  use. 


ARTICLE  CLXVII. 


RAMPION,  OR  GERMAN  OR  EVENING  PRIMROSE. 

French  German 

Primevere.  Schlusselblume. 

No.  1260. — This  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant  that  grows  abundantly 
on  the  roadsides  in  this  country.  The  roots,  which  are  the  only 
parte  used,  are,  when  full  grown,  about  ten  inches  long,  of  fusiform, 
and  have  strong  fibres.  The  whitish,  thick  outer  skin  peels  off 
readily,  and  should  always  be  removed.  It  has  a  nutty  flavor  when 
eaten  raw,  and  is  inferior  to  the  true  Rampion,  being  slightly  pun- 
gent in  taste.  They  are  used  in  salads  when  young,  and  are  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner  as  the  oyster  plant,  when  full  grown. 

EAMPION   SALAD. 

No.  1261. — When  prepared  as  a  salad  it  should  be  mixed  with 
pickled  beets  and  celery,  and  should  be  seasoned  and  finished  the 
same  as  other  salads. 


ARTICLK 


RAPE. 

Colza.  Rubsamen, 

No.  1262. — This  plant  is  cultivated  for  its  seed,  from  which  Rape 
seed  oil  is  obtained.  The  seed  is  also  used  as  food  for  canary- 
birds,  and  the  leaves  for  salad,  when  mixed  with  cress  or  lettuce. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1263. — Sow  the  seeds  broadcast  or  in  drills,  in  May,  the  same 
as  mustard  seeds  are  sown.     The  soil  should  be  rich  and  moist  to 
obtain  a   rapid  growth,  and  tender,  succulent  leaves.     The  plants, 
should  be  cut  to  the  ground  before  the  second  leaves  develop. 
19 


I 

290,  HAEDEB'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

ANNUAL  ROUGH-LEAVED   SUMMER  RAPE. 

No.  1264. — The  radical  leaves  are  lyrate  and  of  a  vivid  green 
color. 

,  COMMON  OR  WINTER  RAPE 

No.  1265. — This  variety  is  biennial  and  is  better  adapted  to  a 
Southern  climate  than  to  the  North.  The  leaves  are  smooth,  thick, 
fleshy,  and  resemble  the  annual  summer  variety  in  shape. 

GERMAN  RAPE. 

No.  1266. — This  variety  resembles  the  Winter  Rape,  and  is  sown 
in  May,  the  same  way  as  corn. 

SUMMER  RAPE. 

No.  1267. — A  biennial  variety  with  rough,  radical  leaves,  that 
are  fleshy  and  dark  green  in  color.  The  best  quality  of  oil  is 
obtained  from  this  variety. 


CLXIX. 


French  RED  CABBAGE.  German 

Choux  Rouge.  Rolhkohl  or  Blaukraut. 

No.  1268. — The  Red  Cabbage  is  similar  to  the  white  variety  in 
shape,  but  its  color  is  red  or  bluish-red.  It  is  preferred  by  some 
to  the  white  cabbage.  For  its  cultivation  and  preparation,  see 
Cabbage,  Article  XXX. 


ARTICLE    CLXX. 


RHUBARB. 

Rhubarbe.  Rhabarber. 

No.  1269. — Rhubarb  is  a  perennial  plant,  and  is  cultivated  almost 
exclusively  for  its  leaf  stalks.  The  root  leaves  are  "large,  round, 
heart-shaped,  and  deep  green  in  color,  being  more  or  less  blistered. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  291 

The  leaf  stalks  are  large,  furrowed,  succulent,  and  of  a  pale  green 
color,  often  stained  or  finely  spotted  with  red,  and  varying  from 
two  to  three  inches  in  diameter  at  the  broadest  part,  and  from  one 
to  three  feet  in  length.  The  stalks  are  used  for  pies,  tarts,  jellies, 
and  for  various  medicinal  purposes.  The  juice  makes  a  tolerably 
palatable  wine. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1270. — Rhubarb  succeeds  best  in  deep,  and  somewhat  re- 
tentive soil;  the  richer  its  condition,  and  the  deeper  it  is  stirred, 
the  better.  Sow  the  seeds  in  drills,  cover  them  with  one  inch  of 
soil,  and  thin  out  the  plants  to  six  inches  apart.  Trench  a  piece  of 
ground  in  the  fall,  manure  it  well,  and  transplant  the  young  plants 
in  the  trench,  three  feet  apart  each  way.  Cover  them  with  leaves 
during  the  first  winter,  and  give  them  a  dressing  of  coarse  manure 
every  fall.  The  stalks  should  not  be  plucked  until  the  third  year 
and  the  plant  should  never  be  allowed  to  run  to  seed.  Seeds  can 
never  be  relied  upon  to  produce  the  same  variety.  The  varieties 
are  quite  numerous,  but  those  of  good  quality  are  limited  in  number. 

DOWNING'S  COLOSSAL. 

No.  1271. — This  is  one  of  the  best  and  largest  varieties,  having  a 
fine,  rich,  aromatic  flavor.  Stalks  of  medium  size  are  the  best  for 
family  use.  They  turn  red  when  cooking.  TVhen  stewed  it 
resembles  currant  jelly  in  color. 

ELFOBD. 

No.  1272. — An  early  sort  with  slender  stalks  that  are  covered 
with  a  thin  bright  scarlet  colored  skin.  The  flesh  is  of  a  reddish 
color,  which  is  retained  when  cooked,  if  the  skin  is  not  peeled  off,  a 
process  which  is  unnecessary. 

HAWK'S   CHAMPAGNE. 

No.  1273. — A  variety  as  eaily  as  the  Prince  Albert,  of  a  deeper 
and  finer  color,  but  more  productive  and  larger. 

WYATT'S  LINNEOUS. 

No.  1274. — A  medium  sized,  very  early  and  productive  variety, 
that  is  highly  flavored  and  but  slightly  aciduous.  The  skin  is  thin 
and  the  flesh  tender. 


292  HAKDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

WYATT'S  VICTORIA. 

No.  1275. — A  productive  variety,  with  large  leaf-stalks,  about 
three  inches  broad  and  over  two  feet  long.  They  are  reddish  at 
the  base  and  are  often  finely  spotted  with  red  to  the  nerves  of  the 
leaves.  The  skin  is  thick  and  the  flesh  is  not  very  highly  flavored. 

CAHOON. 

No.  1276. — The  stalks  are  short  and  thick,  the  skin  being  thick 
and  green.  The  texture  is  coarse  and  the  flavor  harsh  aud  strong. 
It  is  seldom  cultivated  for  culinary  purposes,  being  used  princi- 
pally in  the  manufacture  of  wine.  The  juice  is  pressed  from  the 
stalks,  and  to  each  gallon  three  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar  is 
added.  The  wine  is  quite  p'alatable,  but  lacks  the  fine  aroma  of 
grape  wine.  Any  of  the  other  varieties  may  be  used  for  wine> 
sugar  being  added  according  to  their  sweetness. 

RHUBARB  WINE. 

No.  1277. — Cut  half  a  pound  of  Rhubarb  roots  into  small  pieces, 
put  them  in  an  earthen  jar,  and  moisten  them  with  one  quart  of 
wine  spirits  (alcohol).  Six  days  later  add  one  gallon  of  dry  white 
wine  to  it  and  cover  the  jar  tightly.  Ten  days  later  filter  it  and  put 
it  into  bottles.  A  wine-glassful  taken  every  morning  before  break- 
fast is  said  to  be  very  healthful. 

RHUBARB  WATER. 

No.  1278. — Out  six  ounces  of  Rhubarb  roots  into  small  pieces,  put 
them  in  a  quart  bottle,  fill  the  bottle  with  water,  and  set  it  aside  for 
three  days.  The  water  diminishes  phlegm,  strengthens  the  stomach, 
and  facilitates  digestion.  Take  a  wine-glassful  at  dinner  time  and 
mix  it  with  wine.  Re-fill  the  bottle  when  any  is  taken  out  and 
renew  the  quantity  of  Rhubarb  roots  every  two  weeks. 

STEWED   RHUBARB. 

No.  1279. — Stewed  Rhubarb  is  used' as  a  relish  and  for  pies  and 
tarts.  Peel  and  cut  two  pounds  of  Rhubarb  into  pieces  about  an 
inch  long,  parboil  them  for  two  minutes,  then  drain  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan,  with  four  spoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and  set  it  on  a 
brisk  fire,  occasionally  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon.  When 
nearly  cooked,  sweeten  it  to  taste,  and  let  it  cook  until  tender. 

NOTE.— When  cooked  to  be  served  as  a  relish,  the  pieces  should  be  kept  -whole,  and  in  order  to  do 
this  it  is  only  necessary  to  be  a  little  more  careful  in  cooking  them  and  not  stir  them  too  much. 
Rhubarb,  after  being  cooked,  must  always  be  kept  in  an  earthen  bowl  or  jar  and  covered  with  paper. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY    OF  TASTE.  293 


French  RICK.  German 

Riz.  Reis 

No.  1280. — Eice  is  a  native  of  the  Orient,  where  it  is  a  staple 
food.  The  best  and  finest  quality  is  now  grown  in  South  Carolina. 
After  bread  it  is  the  most  healthful  nourishment  known.  It  is  pre- 
pared for  food  in  many  different  ways  as  a  vegetable,  and  is  exten- 
sively used,  when  ground  into  a  flour,  by  pastry  cooks  for  puddings, 
creams,  cakes,  etc.,  which  will  be  described  in  the  Book  on  Pastry. 
In  China  an  intoxicating  wine  is  made  from  it.  In  selecting  Bice 
care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  grains  are  whole,  for  when  they 
are  broken,  or  the  Bice  is  of  inferior  quality,  it  cannot  be  prepared 
properly.  "When  it  is  properly  cooked  the  grains  should  remain 
entire,  and  should  not  stick  together.  There  is  but  one  species. 
The  plant  is  cultivated  in  warm  climates  in  America,  and  grows  best 
in  low,  moist  soil,  which  can  be  overflowed.  It  is  a  light,  nutritious 
food,  and  is  easily  digested. 

BOILED   RICE,    PLAIN. 

No.  1281. — Wash  one  pound  of  Bice  in  cold  water,  and  then  put 
it  in  a  saucepan  with  some  lightly  salted  water.  Stir  it  until  it 
boils,  so  it  will  not  become  attached  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Then 
cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  After 
this  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  allow  the  moisture  to  become 
dry.  It  may  be  served  as  a  vegetable  or  a  garniture,  and  in  soups 
where  Bice  is  required. 

BOILED   EICE  (ANOTHER  WAY). 

No.  1282. — Wash  one  pound  of  Bice  in  cold  water,  then  drain  it 
and  put  it  into  a  saucepan.  Pour  over  it  twice  as  much  cold  water 
as  there  is  Rice,  season  with  salt  and  add  a  piece  of  butter.  After 
it  has  boiled  six  minutes,  cover  the  pan  and  let  it  cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes.  The  Bice  should  then  be  cooked  dry.  When 
cooked  in  this  manner  it  is  used  as  a  vegetable,  and  for  garnitures 
or  borders. 

STEAMED     RICE. 

No.  1283. — Bice  is  the  same,  either  steamed  or  boiled,  differing 
only  in  the  mode  of  cooking.  Wash  and  drain  the  Bice  and  put  it 
in  a  saucepan  or  a  can.  Pour  over  it  twice  as  much  cold  water  as 


294  HARDEB'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

there  is  Rice  and  season  it  with  salt.  Place  the  pan  or  can  into  the 
steam  boiler,  cover  the  boiler,  turn  on  the  steam  and  let  it  remain 
there  about  thirty  minutes,  when  it  should  be  sufficiently  cooked. 
Have  the  pan  or  can  perfectly  clean  or  the  Bice  will  have  a  rusty 
color  when  cooked. 

RICE   BOILED   WITH   BROTH. 

No.  1284. — Wash  one  pound  of  Bice  in  cold  water,  then  drain  it 
and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  cold  water.  Set  it  on  a 
brisk  fire  to  boil  for  two  minutes  (occasionally  stirring  it).  Then 
immerse  it  in  cold  water  and  drain  it  dry.  Then  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  and  moisten  it  with  broth  enough  to  cover  the  Bice  one 
and  a  half  times  its  depth.  Season  with  salt,  cover  the  saucepan 
and  set  it  on  the  fire.  As  soon  as  it  boils  set  it  on  the  side  of  the 
fire,  let  it  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  the  Rice  will  be 
cooked  dry.  Then  add  six  ounces  of  butter,  divided  into  small 
pieces,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  mix  them  gently  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  Bice  cooked  in  this  way  is  used  for  garnitures,  borders, 
Tiinbals,  soups,  etc. 

RICE   BORDERS. 

No.  1285.— Cook  the  Rice  as  in  Nos.  1282  and  1284.  Then  butter  a 
border  mould  with  clarified  butter,  press  the  Bice  into  it  around  the 
sides  and  bottom  tightly,  leaving  a  space  in  the  center.  Smooth  it 
nicely  on  top,  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover,  and  set  the 
mould  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  take  it  out, 
set  it  on  the  dish  it  is  to  be  served  on,  and  in  five  minutes  lift  off 
the  mould  carefully.  Then  fill  the  center  of  the  border  with  the 
preparation  intended  for  it. 

NOTE. — When  Kice  is  used  for  garnishing  side  dishes,  it  may  be  moulded  in  a  Charlotte  mould, 
or  in  a  deep  kitchen  spoon.  For  the  latter  style  dip  the  spoou  in  warm  water,  fill  it  with  Rice,  then 
gently  press  the  Rice  into  an  oval  shape  in  the  spoon.  Then  place  the  Rice  on  the  dish  that  is  to  be 
garnished. 

RICE  FOR  PUREES  OR  BISQUE  SOUPS. 

No.  1286. — Bice  is  used  in  thickening  Purees  and  Bisque  or  Cream 
soups,  to  which  it  imparts  a  delicacy  for  which  these  soups  should 
always  be  distinguished.  Wash  the  Bice  in  cold  water,  drain  it, 
and  put  it  into  a  saucepan.  Pour  over  it  four  times  as  much  chicken 
or  veal  broth  as  there  is  Bice,  season  with  salt  and  add  a  piece  of 
butter,  one  carrot  and  one  onion,  having  four  cloves  stuck  into  it. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  the  Bice  cook  until  it  is  thoroughly 
done.  Then  take  out  the  onion  and  carrot,  put  the  Bice  into  a 
mortar  and  pound  it  into  a  fine  paste.  It  may  then  be  used  as 
directed  in  the  Book  on  Soups. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  295 

RICE,    FAMILY  STYLE. 

No.  1287. — Wash  and  drain  one  pound  of  Bice  in  cold  water  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  some  water.  Set  it  on  the  fire  and  let 
it  boil  for  five  minutes,  occasionally  stirring  it.  Then  immerse  it 
in  cold  water  and  drain  it.  Parboil  half  a  pound  of  lean  salt  pork, 
trim  it  and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  an  inch  long.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan, fry  it  lightly  and  then  add  a  pint  of  white  broth  and  the  Bice. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  let  it  cook  slowly,  occasionally 
stirring  it  up.  When  the  Rice  is  cooked,  add  three  spoonfuls  of 
reduced  Tomato  sauce.  Mix  the  whole  gently  with  a  spoon,  without 
mashing  the  Bice,  and  serve  it  with  fried  sausages  around  the  dish. 

EICE  WITH  CURRY. 

No.  1288. — Chop  one  onion  finely,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  two  soup-spoonfuls  of 
Curry  powder  and  a  pint  of  broth,  and  when  it  boils  add  half  a 
pound  of  Bice  (previously  washed  in  cold  water).  Let  it  boil  for 
five  minutes,  season  with  salt,  cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  as  needed. 

RICE,  CREOLE  STYLE. 

No.  1289. — Chop  one  white  onion  finely,  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  two  ounces  of 
finely  cut  lean  ham  and  let  it  cook  for  two  minutes  while  stirring  it. 
Then  add  half  a  pound  of  Bice  (previously  washed  in  cold  water), 
and  four  peeled -tomatoes  cut  into  small  pieces.  Season  with  salt 
and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper  and  moisten  it  with  a  pint  of  hot  broth. 
Then  put  on  the  cover  and  let  it  cook  for  twenty  minutes. 

RICE,  MEXICAN  STYLE. 

No.  1290. — Cut  one  onion  in  half,  trim  off  the  ends  and  slice  it 
finely.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  spoonfuls  of  grated  fresh 
fat  pork,  fry  it  lightly  and  then  add  two  finely  sliced  green  peppers, 
two  peeled  finely  sliced  tomatoes,  and  half  a  pound  of  Bice  (pre- 
viously washed  in  cold  water).  Moisten  with  a  pint  of  chicken 
broth,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it 
cook  for  twenty  minutes,  occasionally  stirring  it  gently  from  the 
bottom. 

RICE,    MILANAISE   STYLE. 

No.  1291. — Chop  one  large  white  onion  finely,  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  it  lightly.  Add  to  this,  one 


:296  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

pound  of  Bice  (previously  washed  in  cold  water),  a  slice  of  raw 
ham,  and  a  little  Spanish  saffron,  tied  up  in  a  piece  of  cloth.  Then 
moisten  it  with  broth  to  cover,  stir  it  occasionally  until  the  broth  is 
reduced,  then  moisten  again,  and  let  it  cook  until  done.  Then  take 
it  off  of  the  fire,  take  out  the  ham  and  the  saffron,  and  add  four 
ounces  of  butter,  and  a  handful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Mix 
it  gently,  dish  it  up  in  a  nice  shape,- and  pour  over  it  a  nut  brown 
Butter  sauce,  or  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce,  with  some  tomatoes 
and  essence  of  mushrooms. 

RICE,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1292. — Chop  one  white  onion  finely,  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  half  a  pound  of 
washed  Eice,  and  let  it  get  thoroughly  warmed  while  stirring  it, 
after  which  moisten  it  with  a  pint  of  chicken  broth.  Cut  a  young 
and  tender  roasted  chicken  into  small  joints,  and  add  it  to  the  Rice, 
with  a  little  Spanish  saffron,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

RICE   WITH   CABBAGE,    RISTORI   STYLE. 

No.  1293. — Grate  four  ounces  of  fresh  fat  pork  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  small  head  of  cabbage,  cut  into  fine  shreds,  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  fennel  seeds.  Cover  the  sauce- 
pan, and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire.  When  the  cabbage  is  cooked,  add 
half  a  pound  of  Bice,  which  has  been  parboiled  for  five  minutes  and 
drained  dry.  Moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth,  cover  the  saucepan,  and 
let  it  cook  slowly  until  the  Bice  is  done.  Serve  it  in  nice  shape 
and  sprinkle  Parmesan  cheese  over  it. 

RICE,    PARISIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1294. — Wash  one  pound  of  Bice  in  cold  water,  and  drain  it. 
Then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and 
add  a  little  salt  and  the  juice  of  three  lemons.  Cover  the  saucepan 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil.  When  the  grains  are  soft  (so  they 
will  not  crack),  drain  it  in  a  sie've,  and  put  it  into  a  medium  sized 
saucepan  with  six  ounces  of  warm  clarified  butter.  Cover  the  Bice 
with  a  napkin  moistened  in  hot  water,  and  put  the  cover  tightly  on 
the  saucepan.  Set  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  in  twenty  minutes 
the  Bice  will  be  cooked.  In  dishing  it  up  use  only  a  fork. 

RICE   WITH   CURCUMA,    OR   TUMERIC. 

No.  1295. — Wash  half  a  pound  of  Bice  in  cold  water  and  then 
drain  it.  Put  two  quarts  of  broth  in  a  saucepan,  season  with  salt, 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  297 

and  when  it  boils  add  the  Eice.  In  ten  minutes  add  four  soup- 
spoonfuls  of  curcuma  diluted  in  a  cup  of  water,  and  let  it  boil 
briskly  until  the  Rice  is  cooked.  Then  drain  it  on  a  sieve,  return 
it  to  the  saucepan,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  and  keep  it  warm  until 
wanted. 

NOTE.— Eice  in  this  style  is  used  for  garnishing  deviled  chops  and  curried  meats. 
EICE,    VALENCIENNE    STYLE. 

No.  1296. — Wash  one  pound  of  Rice  in  cold  water,  and  drain  it 
on  a  sieve.  Chop  one  large  white  onion  finely,  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  three  spoonfuls  of  olive  oil  and  fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  the 
Rice  and  two  ounces  of  ham  cut  in  small  pieces.  Let  it  cook  for 
four  minutes,  stirring  it  wrell  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  then  pour 
over  it  three  times  as  much  chicken  broth  as  there  is  Rice.  Add  a 
faggot  of  parsley  garnished,  one  dozen  sausages  "  chipolata," 
and  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper.  Set  it  on  the  fire 
to  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  cover  the  saucepan  tightly  and  set  it 
on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  when  the 
rice  will  be  cooked.  Take  out  the  faggot  and  add  six  ounces  of 
butter  divided  into  small  pieces,  and  a  garniture  of  mushrooms  and 
artichoke  bottoms  scolloped.  Mix  the  whole  gently  together. 

NOTE.— When  Kiceis  prepared  in  this  style  on  Fast  days,  use  fish  broth;  ornit  the  sausages  and 
ham,  and  replace  them  with  oysters,  mussels  and  eels  cut  in  small  pieces. 

EICE,    TURKISH   STYLE. 

No.  1297. — To  prepare  Rice  in  this  style,  it  is  necessary,  first,  to 
make  a  chicken  or  mutton  broth,  seasoned  with  salt,  and  garnished 
with  a  faggot  of  parsley,  to  which  you  have  added  some  fine  herbs, 
a  few  grains  of  pepper-corn  and  some  cloves.  When  the  broth  is 
cooked  strain  it  through  a  napkin. 

Put  one  pound  of  Rice  in  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  it  twice  as 
much  of  the  above  broth  as  there  is  Rice.  Set  it  on  a  brisk  fire, 
and  in  fifteen  minutes  the  moisture  will  be  nearly  absorbed.  Then 
set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  when  the  Rice  is  dry  add  four 
ounces  of  clarified  nut-brown  butter.  Cover  the  saucepan  tightly 
and  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  In  dishing 
up  the  Rice  use  a  fork,  and  when  properly  cooked  with  the  best 
quality  of  Rice,  the  grains  will  be  found  to  be  separate  from  each 
other.  Serve  a  soup  tureen  of  the  broth  with  the  Rice. 

EISOTTI,    FLOEENTINE   STYLE. 

No.  1298. — Chop  one  white  onion  finely,  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  four  ounces  of  marrow  cut  into 


298  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

small  pieces.  Fry  it  lightly  and  then  add  one  pound  of  Rice,  letting 
it  cook  slowly  for  four  minutes,  while  stirring  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  Then  moisten  it  with  twice  as  much  broth  as  there  is  Eice. 
Let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  cover  the  saucepan  and  set  it  on 
the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  until  done.  Then  add  six  ounces  of 
butter,  divided  into  small  pieces,  four  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  some  truffles  cut  into  small  Juliennes,  and  four  spoonfuls 
of  beef  gravy  reduced  with  some  Tomato  sauce.  Serve  with  this  a 
plate  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  a  soup-tureen  of  Consomme. 

RISOTTI,    PIEMONTAISE   STYLE. 

No.  1299. — Chop  one  white  onion  finely,  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  it  lightly.  Then  add  one  pound  of 
Rice,  letting  it  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  while  stirring  it  with  a 
wooden  spoon.  Then  pour  over  it  twice  as  much  chicken  broth  as 
there  is  Rice.  Let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  cover  the  saucepan 
and  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  until  done,  adding  a  little 
broth  if  necessary,  without  disturbing  the  Rice.  When  the  Rice 
is  cooked,  take  it  off  of  the  fire  and  add  six  ounces  of  butter  divided 
into  small  pieces,  four  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  three 
spoonfuls  of  rich  gravy.  Mix  the  whole  gently.  Serve  with  a 
tureen  of  chicken  Consomme  and  a  plate  of  Parmesan  cheese. 

RICE   FOR   GARNITURES. 

No.  1300. — Rice  prepared  in  the  following  styles  may  be  used  for 
garnitures;  viz.:  Rice  Crusts,  Tiinbals  and  Borders. 

RICE   CUSTARD   FOR   SOUP   GARNITURE,    LANGTRY    STYLE. 

No.  1301. — Wash  and  parboil  six  ounces  of  Rice  for  three 
minutes,  then  drain  it,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  it  twice 
as  much  milk  as  there  is  rice.  Season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar  and  nutmeg.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  slowly  until 
thoroughly  done,  then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  add  the  yolks 
of  sixteen  raw  eggs  diluted  in  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  half  a  pint 
of  almond  milk.  Season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
and  strain  the  whole  through  a  napkin.  Then  put  the  custard  into 
small  buttered  round  charlotte  moulds  and  set  them  in  a  flat  sauce- 
pan with  water  to  poach.  When  cooked  take  them  out  to  get  cold, 
and  when  ready  to  use,  slice  them  and  put  them  into  the  soup. 

RICE   FOR   CONSOMME. 

No.  1302. — Wash  and  parboil  the  Rice  for  five  minutes,  then 
immerse  it  in  cold  water  and  drain  it  on  a  sieve.  Then  put  it  in 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  299 

some  broth  to  cook,  and  when  cooked,  drain  off  the  broth  and  put 
the  Eice  in  the  boiling  Consomme.  Let  it  boil  up  once,  then  skim 
it  and  serve. 

RICE   SOUP. 

No.  1303. — Wash  four  ounces  of  Rice  with  plenty  of  water,  drain 
it  and  set  it  on  the  fire  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water.  Stir  it  occa- 
sionally, and  as  soon  as  it  boils  immerse  it  in  cold  water  and  drain 
it  dry.  Then 'put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  boiling 
broth,  season  to  taste  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with 
two  leeks.  Cover  half  of  the  top  of  the  saucepan  and  let  it  boil 
slowly  until  the  Rice  is  cooked.  Then  skim  it,  take  out  the  faggot 
and  serve  it,  adding  a  little  finely  chopped  par«ley  or  chives. 

NOTE.— Pearl  barley,  or  any  Italian  paste  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way. 
EICE   SOUP,    INDIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1304. — Prepare  four  quarts  of  thickened  chicken  broth  as 
described  in  the  Book  on  Soups,  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil 
slowly  for  half  an  hour  and  skim  it  well.  Cut  two  young  chickens 
into  pieces  about  an  inch  long  and  trim  them  nicely.  Then  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  them  lightly. 
Add  three  soup-spoonfuls  of  curry  powder  diluted  with  a  quart  of 
broth.  Let  it  cook  slowly  until  the  chicken  is  three-quarters  done, 
then  strain  the  thickened  chicken  broth  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
into  this  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  celery  and  a  leek. 
Season  to  taste,  let  the  soup  boil  slowly  until  the  chicken  is  done, 
then  skim  off  the  grease  and  remove  the  faggot.  Before  serving 
add  half  a*  pint  of  cream,  into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  four  raw 
eggs.  Serve  with  a  garniture  of  plain  boiled  Rice. 

RICE   SOUP,    WITH   MILK. 

No.  1305. — Wash  four  ounces  of  Rice  in  cold  water,  then  drain 
it  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water.  When  it 
boils  immerse  it  in  cold  water.  Boil  two  quarts  of  milk  in  a  sauce- 
pan and  then  add  the  Rice,  stirring  it  until  it  boils.  Season  with 
salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  let  it  boil  slowly  on  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  the  Rice  is  cooked. 

NOTE.— Soups  made  -with  milk,  to  which  vermicelli,  farina,  semoule,  or  other  pastes  are  added, 
are  prepared  in  the  same  way.  A  cup  of  cream,  in  which  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  are  diluted,  with 
a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley,  will  make  it  more  nourishing. 

RICE   SOUP,    WITH   ALMOND   MILK. 

No.  1306. — Wash  and  parboil  six  ounces  of  Rice,  then  immerse 
it  in  cold  water  and  drain  it.  Then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  three 


300  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

pints  of  boiled  milk  and  let  it  cook  slowly  until  the  Eice  is  done. 
Peel  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  and  six  bitter  almonds,  put 
them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them  into  a  fine  paste,  occasionally 
adding  a  little  milk  to  prevent  them  from  turning  oily.  Dilute  the 
paste  with  one  quart  of  milk  and  press  it  through  a  napkin.  Then 
add  this  to  the  soup,  season  to  taste,  and,  when  thoroughly  warmed, 
serve  it,  being  very  careful  not  to  let  it  boil  after  mixing  the  almond 
milk  with  the  soup. 

RICE    SOUP,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1307. — Wash  and  parboil  s:x  ounces  of  Bice,  then  immerse 
it  in  cold  water  and  drain  it.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  finely  sliced 
white  onion  \\  ith  four  ounces  of  scraped  fat  pork  and  fry  it  lightly 
(not  letting  it  get  browned).  Then  add  the  Rice  and  season  with 
salt  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper.  Let  it  cook  for  two  minutes,  while 
stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Then  add  two  quarts  of  chicken 
Consomme,  and  when  it  boils  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Skim  it  and  then  serve  it  with  a  plate 
of  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

CREAM   OF   RICE,    RACHEL   STYLE. 

No.  1308. — Wash  one  pound  of  Eice  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  four  quarts  of  cold  water.  Set  it  on  the  fiifc  to  boil  for  two 
minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally.  Then  immerse  ft  in  cold  wrater 
and  drain  it  dry.  Return  the  Eice  to  a  saucepan  with  three  pints 
of  chicken  broth,  season  with  salt,  a  little  nutmeg  and  red  pepper, 
and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  leeks,  one  carrot 
and  one  onion,  into  which  stick  four  cloves.  Cover  the  saucepan 
and  let  it  cook  thoroughly  on  a  slow  fire.  Then  take  out  the  faggot, 
carrot,  and  onion,  and  rub  the  Eice  through  a  fine  sieve.  Dilute 
this  puree  with  two  quarts  of  chicken  broth  und  one  quart  of  Cream 
sauce.  Set  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  until  it  boils,  then  let  it  simmer 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  skim  it  well  and  strain  it  through 
a  fine  sieve  into  another  saucepan,  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  hot  water 
bath  until  ready  to  use  it.  Before  serving  add  eight  ounces  of 
butter,  divided  into  small  pieces,  and  a  pint  of  cream,  in  which 
dilute  the  yolks  of  eight  raw  eggs.  Stir  it  well  until  the  butter  is 
melted,  and  serve  it  with  a  garniture  of  green  asparagus  tops. 

CREAM  OF   RICE,  LANGTRY  STYLE. 

No.  1300. — Wash  one  pound  of  Eice  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  four  quarts  of  cold  water.  Set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  for  two 
minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally.  Then  immerse  it  in  cold  water 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  301 

and  drain  it  dry.  Return  the  Rice  to  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts 
of  chicken  broth,  season  with  salt,  a  little  nutmeg  and  pepper,  and 
add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  leeks,  one  carrot  and 
one  onion,  in  which  stick  four  cloves.  Then  add  one  chicken, 
cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  thoroughly  on  a  slow  fire.  Then 
take  oat  the  chicken,  faggot,  carrot  and  onion  and  add  two  quarts, 
of  Cream  sauce  to  the  Bice.  Bub  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  dilute  the  puree  with  chicken  broth  to  its  proper  consistency. 
Then  strain  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  hot 
water  bath  until  ready  to  use.  With  the  breast  of  the  chicken, 
make  the  following  preparation :  Pound  the  breast  of  two  braised 
chickens  in  a  mortar,  into  a  fine  paste,  then  add  eight  ounces  of 
butter  and  the  yolks  of  eight  raw  eggs  and  rub  the  whole  through 
a  fine  sieve.  When  ready  to  serve  the  soup,  put  this  in  a  saucepan 
with  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  add  the  soup  slowly  while  stirring  it 
briskly  with  a  wire  whisk.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  it  boil  or 
it  will  curdle.  Serve  with  a  garniture  of  small  green  asparagus 
tops  or  pearl  barley. 

CREAM   OF   RICE   WITH   RICE   FLOUR,     ASTOR   STYLE. 

No.  1310. — Put  one  gallon  of  chicken  Consomme  in  a  saucepan, 
and  when  it  boils  add  slowly,  while  stirring  it,  half  a  pound  of  Bice 
flour  diluted  with  cold  broth.  (If  it  gets  lumpy  it  must  be  strained 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  returned  to  the  saucepan,  stirring  it  until 
it  boils.)  When  it  boils  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg,  and  add  one  chicken  and  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished 
with  two  leeks  and  two  green  onions.  Let  it  boil  slowly  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour,  then  skim  it  well,  take  out  the  chicken  and 
faggot,  and  strain  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  back  in  a 
saucepan  to  keep  warm  in  a  hot  water  bath.  When  ready  to  serve, 
add  half  a  pound  of  butter,  divided  into  small  pieces,  and  a  pint  of 
almond  milk,  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  Stir  it  well 
until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  serve  it  with  a  garniture  of  green 
peas,  or  pearl  barley,  cooked  in  Consomme. 

RICE   WATER. 

No.  1311. — Wash  six  ounces  of  Bice,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with 
two  quarts  of  cold  water,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  until  it  boils. 
Then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  slowly  until  the  Rice  is 
thoroughly  cooked.  Then  rub  it  through  a  fine  strainer  and  put  it 
back  in  the  saucepan.  If  found  too  thick  add  a  little  more  water, 
and  let  it  warm  thoroughly.  Sweeten  with  sugar  or  honey. 

NOTE. — Bice  Water  is  a  good  nutritive  drink  for  fevers  and  inflammatory  affections  of  the  bowels, 
as  well  as  for  diarrhoea.  Care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  the  Rice  is  cooked  soft.  It  may  be  used  hot 
or  cold. 


302  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

RICE   GRUEL. 

No.  1312. — Wash  four  ounces  of  Bice  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  quart  of  boiling  milk.  Stir  it  until  it  boils,  then  set  it  on 
the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Sweeten  with 
sugar  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  This  may  be  used  hot  or  cold,  and 
can  also  be  made  of  Rice  flour. 

SMALL   CRUSTS    (OR   CROUSTADES)    OF   RICE. 

No.  1313. — Wash  two  pounds  of  Rice,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  and 
pour  over  it  twice  as  much  chicken  broth  as  there  is  Bice.  Then 
season  with  salt,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  cover  the  saucepan  and  let 
it  cook  slowly  for  twenty-live  minutes,  when  the  Bice  will  be  cooked 
dry.  Then  take  it  off  of  the  fire  and  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  six 
ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  mix 
the  whole  well  together.  After  this  put  enough  Bice  in  a  buttered 
square  tin  pan  to  cover  the  bottom  two  inches  deep.  Smooth  the 
surface  of  the  Bice  and  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover,  on  top 
of  which  set  another  pan,  so  as  to  slightly  press  the  Bice,  and  set  it 
aside  to  get  cold.  When  the  Rice  is  cold  turn  it  on  the  table,  and 
with  a  round  cutter,  the  size  of  a  dollar,  cut  out  as  many  crusts  as 
possible  (dip  the  cutter  in  lukewarm  water  after  each  cut).  Boll 
the  crusts  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs 
and  bread  them  again.  Shape  them  nicely,  and  with  a  small  cutter 
the  size  of  a  twenty -five  cent  piece,  make  on  the  top  of  each  one  a 
slight  impression.  Then  fry  them  in  hot  lard,  and  when  they  are 
nicely  browned,  drain  them.  Take  off  the  covers,  scoop  out  the 
centers,  and  be  careful  not  to  break  the  shell. 

CRUSTS  (CROUSTADES)  OF  RICE,  VICTORIA  STYLE. 

No.  1314. — Prepare  the  crusts  as  in  No.  1313,  and  fill  them  with 
a  garniture  of  mushrooms  and  shrimps,  to  which  add  a  reduced 
Cream  sauce.  Garnish  the  tops  of  the  crusts  with  a  border  of 
shrimps  arranged  in  crescent  shape. 

CRUSTS    (CBOUSTADES)    OF   RICE,    WITH   EGGS   AND   CHEESE. 

No.  1315. — Prepare  a  Bisotti,  Piemontaise  style,  as  in  No.  1299, 
having  the  Bice  somewhat  firmer,  and  then  proceed  to  make  the 
crusts  as  in  No.  1313,  filling  them  with  eggs  scrambled  with  cheese. 

CRUSTS  (CROUSTADES)  OF  RICE,  WITH  CURRIED  LOBSTER. 

No.  1316. — Prepare  a  Bisotti,  Florentine  style,  as  in  No.  1298, 
having  the  Rice  somewhat  firmer,  and  then  proceed  to  make  the 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  303 

crusts,  as  in  No.  1313,  filling  them  with  a  garniture  of  lobster, 
cut  in  small  square  pieces,  to  which  add  a  reduced  Curry  sauce. 
Garnish  the  top  of  each  crust  with  a  piece  of  scalloped  lobster  and 
a  slice  of  truffles,  nicely  glazed. 

CRUSTS   (CEOUSTADES)    OF   EICE,    WITH   PUEEE   OF   CHICKEN. 

No.  1317. — Prepare  the  crusts  as  in  No.  1313,  and  then  fill  them 
with  a  puree  of  chicken.  Garnish  the  top  of  each  crust  with  a  small 
lamb  sweet  bread  nicely  glazed. 

CASSEEOLES   OF   EICE. 

No.  1318. — Tho  Rice,  when  cooked,  is  put  in  a  buttered  mould  of 
any  shape  desired,  and  is  pressed  hard  so  as  to  have  it  in  a  solid 
mass.  When  it  is  cold  turn  it  out  of  the  mould,  and  cut  it  in  any 
vase-like  shape.  Then  scoop  out  the  center  so  as  to  leave  the  shell 
half  an  inch  thick. 

HOW  TO   COOK  EICE   FOE   CASSEEOLES. 

No.  1319. — "Wash  two  pounds  of  Bice  in  several  waters,  and  drain 
it  dry.  Then  put  it  in  a  medium  sized  saucepan,  and  pour  over  it 
twice  as  much  water  or  white  broth  as  there  is  Rice.  Season  it  with 
salt,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  boil, 
stirring  it  occasionally.  Five  minutes  after  it  boils,  cover  the  sauce- 
pan tightly,  and  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  forty  minutes,  when 
the  rice  will  be  thoroughly  cooked.  Then  add  two  ounces  of  butter 
(six  ounces  of  cheese  if  desired),  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg;  mix  the 
whole  briskly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  press  it  tightly  into  the 
plain  or  fluted  buttered  moulds.  Cover  the  moulds  with  a  buttered 
paper  cover,  on  top  of  which  put  a  wooden  cover  that  fits  into  the 
mould,  and  on  this  cover  a  weight  to  press  the  Rice  down.  When 
the  Rice  is  perfectly  cold,  turn  it  out,  and  cut  it  into  any  vase-like 
shape.  Then  scoop  out  the  center,  and  leave  the  shell  about  half 
an  inch  thick.  Dilute  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  in  a  spoonful  of 
water,  and  baste  the  Casserole  inside  and  outside;  then  set  it  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  nicely  colored. 

NOTE. — Casseroles  rnay  be  filled  with  any  kind  of  meat  garniture,  fish  or  purees,  and  must  always 
be  nicely  garnished  over  the  top.  They  take  their  name  from  the  garniture  with  which  they  are 
filled. 

TIMBALS   OF   EICE. 

No.  1320.— Cook  three  pounds  of  Rice  as  in  Nos.  129S  or  1299, 
having  it  somewhat  firmer.  Butter  the  Timbal  or  Charlotte  moulds 


304  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

with  clarified  butter,  and  place  them  in  a  cool  place  to  allow  the  butter 
to  harden.  (They  may  also  be  decorated  with  truffles,  beef  tongue 
or  raspings  of  bread.)  When  the  Bice  is  cool  and  the  moulds  are 
ready,  line  the  moulds  carefully  with  it,  pressing  it  tightly  together 
around  the  sides  and  bottom,  but  being  careful  not  to  disturb  the 
decorations.  Fill  the  centres  with  a  garniture  of  meats  or  purees. 
(The  Timbal  is  named  after  the  garniture  it  is  filled  with. )  Then 
cover  the  Timbals  with  a  layer  of  Rice,  smooth  it  evenly,  and  cover 
it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover.  Then  set  them  in  the  oven  to  keep 
warm  until  ready  for  use.  When  ready  to  serve  them,  pass  a  knife 
between  the  mould  and  the  Timbal  to  loosen  it,  and  then  turn  it  on 
to  the  dish  it  is  to  be  served  on. 

NOTE. — When  making  large  Timbals,  the  Rice  should  be  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  thick  in  the  mould;  for  small  garnitures,  from  one-quarter  to  one-half  of  an  inch  will  be 
sufficient. 

PANADE   OP   RICE   FLOUR   FOR   FORCED   MEATS. 

No.  1321. — Put  one  pint  of  white  broth  in  a  saucepan,  and  when 
it  boils  add  one  pint  of  Bice  flour  and  a  small  piece  of  butter. 
Stir  briskly  with  a  wooden  spoon  while  adding  the  flour,  and  con- 
tinue stirring  for  five  minutes,  being  careful  to  have  the  paste  clear 
and  smooth  so  it  will  not  stick  to  either  the  saucepan  or  spoon. 
Then  take  it  off  of  the  fire,  put  it  in  a  plate  or  earthen  bowl,  cover 
it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover  to  prevent  it  from  crusting,  and  let  it 
get  cold  until  needed.- 

NOTE.— This  Panade  is  superior  to  the  others  for  any  kind  of  forced^raeats,  but  it  must  always  be 
used  fresh.  For  other  Panades,  see  Book  on  Sauces  and  Preparations  for  Forced  Meats. 

RICE    CROQUETTES,    CREOLE   STYLE. 

No.  1322. — Cook  two  pounds  of  Bice  as  in  No.  1289,  having  it 
somewhat  firmer  and  drier.  When  cooked,  take  it  off  of  the  fire, 
and  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  six .  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  and  a  small  garniture  of  mushrooms,  beef  tongue,  truffles, 
and  the  breast  of  a  roasted  partridge,  quail  or  chicken,  all  cut  into 
small  square  pieces.  Mix  the  whole  thoroughly,  and  put  it  in  a  but- 
tered square  tin  pan,  having  the  Bice  about  an  inch  deep.  Smooth 
the  top  evenly,  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover,  and  set  it  aside 
to  get  cold.  When  cold,  cut  out  some  pieces  with  a  round  cutter  (the 
size  of  half  a  dollar),  and  roll  them  in  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Dip 
them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  and  form 
them  nicely.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  until  nicely  colored,  then  drain 
them,  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin,  with  fried  parsley  to  garnish  the 
base. 

NOTE.— When  these  Croquettes  are  used  for  garnitures,  add  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  When 
putting  the  above  mixture  to  the  Eice,  roll  them  in  any  shape  desired  while  the  Rice  is  warm;  then 
bread  them,  etc. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  305 

RICE  FRITTERS    (SUBRICS). 

No.  1323. — Wash  one  pound  of  Rice  in  cold  water,  parboil  it  for 
two  minutes,  immerse  it  in  cold  water,  and  drain  it  in  a  sieve. 
Then  put  it  in  a  saucepan,  and  pour  twice  as  much  boiling  milk 
over  it  as  there  is  Rice.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  slowly 
until  the  Rice  is  cooked  dry.  Then  take  it  off  of  the  fire  to  get 
cool;  after  which  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  three  ounces  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  one 
of  nutmeg.  Mix  the  whole  well  together.  Put  some  clarified 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  drop  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  Rice  in  a 
lump.  Repeat  this  until  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  well  covered,  not 
allowing  the  lumps  to  touch  each  other.  Fry  them  on  both  sides 
over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  nicely  browned,  drain  them  and  then 
serve  them  hot. 

RICE   CROQUETTES. 

No.  1324. — Wash  one  pound  of  Rice  in  cold  water  and  drain  it. 
Then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  boiled  milk,  the  peel- 
ings of  one  lemon  and  one  stick  of  cinnamon.  Cover  the  saucepan, 
set  it  on  a  slow  fire  to  cook  gently,  and  when  the  Rice  is  nearly  done 
add  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  two  ounces  of  butter  and 
let  it  cook  until  thoroughly  done.  Should  the  Rice  get  too  dry 
while  cooking  add  a  little  more  milk  to  it.  Take  it  off  of  the  fire, 
take  out  the  lemon  peelings  and  the  stick  of  cinnamon,  mix  the 
Rice  well  together,  and  when  it  is  somewhat  cool,  add  to  it  the 
yolks  of  six  raw  eggs,  a  little  essence  of  lemon  or  orange-flower 
water,  (whichever  may  be  desired).  Mix  it  well  together  and  put 
it  into  a  buttered  pan.  Cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover  and 
let  it  get  cold.  Then  roll  the  Rice  in  any  croquette  shapes  desired, 
dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  arrange  them 
in  proper  shape,  fry  them  in  hot  lard,  drain  them,  roll  them  in 
powdered  sugar  into  which  add  a  little  ground  cinnamon,  and  then 
dish  them  up  on  a  napkin. 

NOTE.— Either  a  Hard  sauce  or  a  Wine  sauce  flavored  with  Maraschino  or  rum  can  be  served  with 
this. 

RICE    FRITTERS. 

No.  1325. — Cook  the  Rice  as  in  No.  1324.  Then  add  some  stoned 
raisins  and  currants  that  are  perfectly  clean,  or  some  small  square 
pieces  of  citron.  Mix  them  all  thoroughly,  and,  when  the  Rice  is 
cold,  roll  it  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Dip  them  in 
frying  batter,  then  fry  them  in  hot  lard,  and  drain  them.  After 
this,  dip  them  in  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

.  NOTE. — The  Fritters  may  be  flavored  with  lemon  or  orange  flower  water,  as  they  are  considered 
the  best  flavors  for  Rice.  The  Fritters  are  always  named  after  the  ingredients  that  are  put  into  them. 

20 


306  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

RICE  CAKE,  SOUFFLE. 

No.  1326. — Prepare  the  Rice  as  in  No.  1324,  and  when  it  is 
cooked,  put  it  in  a  pan  to  get  cold.  Then  flavor  it  with  lemon  or 
orange,  add  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs,  and  mix  the  whole  thoroughly. 
Then  beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  mix  it  gently 
with  the  rice.  Butter  some  Charlotte  moulds,  and  dust  them  with 
bread  crumbs;  then  fill  them  three-quarters  full  with  the  Rice,  and 
set  them  in  a  moderate  oven  to  bake.  When  baked,  turn  it  on  a 
dish  and  let  it  stand  a  few  minutes;  then  remove  the  mould,  sprinkle 
it  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  it  with  a  bowl  of  lemon  sauce 
separate. 

NOTE.— Raisins,  currants  or  any  kind  of  crystallized  fruit  may  be  added. 
RICE   CAKE,    GLAZED. 

No.  1327. — Prepare  the  Rice  as  in  No.  1324,  and,  when  it  is  cooked, 
put  it  in  a  pan  to  cool.  Then  add  four  whole  raw  eggs,  the  yolks 
of  four  more  raw  eggs,  and  six  ounces  of  stoned  raisins,  currants, 
or  citron  cut  in  small  pieces.  Mix  the  whole  thoroughly,  and  flavor 
with  lemon  or  vanilla.  Butter  a  square  pan,  in  the  bottom  of  which 
lay  a  buttered  paper.  Sprinkle  it  with  flour,  and  put  the  Rice  in  the 
pan  to  the  thickness  of  an  inch.  Set  the  pan  into  a  larger  pan  con- 
taining some  water,  being  careful  not  to  let  any  of  the  water  touch 
the  Rice.  Then  set  it  in  the  oven  to  bake.  When  baked  set  the 
Rice  out  to  cool.  Then  turn  it  out  on  a  board  or  the  bottom  of 
another  pan,  remove  the  paper,  and  glaze  the  cake  with  a  glaze 
made  with  rum  or  maraschino.  Then  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  to 
dry,  after  which  cut  it  in  any  shape  desired,  and  serve  with  a  Lemon 
or  Rum  sauce. 

RICE  FOR  COMPOTES   OF   FRUIT. 

No.  1328. — Wash  one  pound  of  Rice  in  cold  water,  and  drain  it. 
Then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  boiled  milk,  stirring 
it  until  it  boils.  Then  add  the  peelings  of  one  lemon  and  a  stick 
of  cinnamon.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  slowly.  When 
the  Rice  is  three-quarters  cooked,  sweeten  it  to  taste,  and,  should  it 
be  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  milk.  When  it  is  done  keep  it  warm 
for  use.  When  the  fruit  is  cooked  as  for  Compotes,  dish  up  the 
Rice,  and  garnish  it  with  the  fruit  intended  to  be  served  with  it. 

NOTE.— For  full  description  of  Compotes,  see  the  Book  on  Pastry. 

RICE   WITH  MILK,    FOR  INVALIDS. 

No.  1329. — Wash  half  a  pound  of  Rice  in  cold  water,  drain  it 
dry  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar, 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  307 

two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  three  soup-spoonfuls  of  white  honey 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon.  Then  add  three  pints 
of  fresh  milk,  cover  the  saucepan  tight  and  set  it  in  a  hot  oven  to 
cook  for  forty-five  minutes. 

NOTE. — Care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  saucepan  high  enough  to  prevent  the  milk  from  running 
over,  as  when  the  milk  rises  it  should  fall  back  to  the  Rice.  This  is  light,  agreeable,  nourishing  and 
healthful  for  persons  having  inflammation  of  the  chest  or  stomach. 


RICE  CRUSTS,  OE   STANDS  FOE   HOT  OE  COLD  SIDE  DISHES. 

No.  1330. — Crusts  upon  which  side  dishes  are  dressed,  are  gen- 
erally cut  from  bread  and  are  formed  in  various  shapes,  but  those 
of  Rice  wili  be  found  much  better  and  more  secure,  as  they  are 
very  firm  and  will  not  soften  like  the  bread,  especially  when  the 
dish  to  be  served  must  remain  on  the  table  for  some  time.  Besides 
this,  the  whiteness  of  the  Rice,  when  the  crust  is  well  made,  presents 
a  much  more  pleasing  effect  than  the  bread.  This  will  be  found 
to  be  the  case,  especially  in  cold  dishes,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the 
Rice  can  be  cut  or  carved  into  any  shape  after  it  has  been  moulded, 
but  it  requires  experience  and  practice  to  shape  them  nicely. 

HOW   TO   COOK   RICE  FOB   CEUSTS   OE    STANDS. 

No.  1331. — Wash  four  pounds  of  Rice  in  plenty  of  cold  water  and 
drain  it.  Then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  it  three  times 
as  much  water  as  there  is  Rice.  Add  a  little  salt  and  a  small  piece 
of  butter  and  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil,  stirring  it  well.  Six  minutes 
after  this,  put  the  cover  on  the  pan  tightly,  and  set  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  one  hour,  when  the  rice  will  be  cooked  dry.  (If  any  of  the 
Rice  on  top  has  become  browned,  remove  it.)  Then  take  the  Rice 
from  the  saucepan  with  a  spoon,  being  careful  not  to  remove  any 
that  adheres  to  the  side  or  bottom  of  the  pan.  Put  it  in  a  mortar, 
pound  it  to  a  fine  paste  and  put  it  on  a  clean  table  board.  Then 
dip  your  hands  in  cold  water  and  work  the  Rice  well  together. 
Then  butter  a  mould  of  the  desired  shape,  fill  it  with  the  Bice,  and 
smooth  the  surface  evenly.  Put  a  buttered  paper  cover  on  top,  and 
on  this  place  a  wooden  cover  that  will  fit  inside  of  the  mould.  A 
heavy  weight  must  be  put  on  the  board  to  press  the  Rice  down 
solid.  Then  set  it  aside  for  ten  hours  to  get  cold,  and,  when  ready 
to  use  it,  dip  the  mould  in  hot  water  and  turn  the  Rice  out  on  a  dish. 
Then  cut  the  Rice  into  any  shape  desired  with  a  small  sharp  knife, 
and  keep  it  covered  with  a  damp  napkin  until  wanted. 


308  HAEDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY 


CLXXH 


ROCAMBOLE. 

Rocambole.  Rocambole. 

No.  1332.  Rocambole  is  a  half-hardy  perennial  plant,  and  is  a 
native  of  Denmark.  They  partake  of  the  character  of  the  shallot 
and  garlic,  and  should  always  be  dipped  in  boiling  water  for  a 
jew  minutes  before  using,  as  they  have  a  bitter  taste.  They  are 
used  in  the  same  manner  as  shallots  or  garlic. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1333. — It  is  propagated  by  planting  either  the  underground 
bulbs  or  the  small  cloves  or  bulbs  that  are  produced  upon  the  stem 
of  the  plant.  Plant  them  in  April,  five  inches  apart,  in  drills  that 
.are  ten  inches  apart.  They  will  attain  their  full  size  in  August, 
and  may  then  be  used  for  cooking,  or  may  be  spread  out  to  dry, 
ihen  tied  in  bunches  and  kept  in  a  dry  place  for  future  use. 


CLXXIH. 


French  ROCKET1.  German 

Roquette.  Winterkresse. 

No.  1334. — Rocket  is  a  hardy,  annual  plant,  a  native  of  the,  south 
of  Europe.  The  leaves  are  long,  lobed,  smooth,  glossy,  succulent 
and  tender,  and  are  eaten  when  young  as  a  salad. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1335. — The  seeds  are  sown  thickly  in  shallow  drills  one  foot 
apart,  as  early  in  spring  as  the  ground  will  admit.  If  they  are 
sown  in  a  dry  season,  or  in  poor  soil,  the  leaves  are  liable  to  be 
rough  and  acrid;  therefore,  be  careful  to  use  rich  loam,  and  to  water 
the  plants  well.  If  they  grow  rapid  and  vigorous,  the  foliage  will 
be  succulent  and  mildly  flavored. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  309 


French  ROSEMARY.  German 

Romarin.  Rosmarin. 

No.  1336. — Rosemary  is  a  half-hardy,  shrubby  plant,  with  a  fra- 
grant odor,  and  a  warm,  aromatic,  bitter  taste.  The  leaves  vary  in 
form  and  color  in  the  different  varieties.  It  is  used  for  flavoring 
meats  and  soups,  and  also  in  the  manufacture  of  cologne.  Its 
flowers  and  calyxes  form  one  of  the  principal  ingredients  in  the 
distillation  of  Hungary  water.  Drinks  are  made  by  an  infusion  of 

O         •/  •/ 

the  leaves. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1337. — Rosemary  requires  a  light,  dry  soil,  in  a  sheltered 
situation.  The  seeds  are  sown  in  April,  in  small  nursery  beds,  and 
the  seedlings,  when  two  inches  high,  are  transplanted  in  rows  two 
feet  apart,  and  sixteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  When  propagated 
by  cuttings,  they  should  be  taken  off  in  May  or  June,  when  six 
inches  long,  and  set  two-thirds  of  their  length  in  the  earth,  in  a 
moist  and  shady  situation.  When  well  rooted,  transplant  as  for 
seedlings. 

GOLD    STBIPED. 

No.  1338. — A  variety  of  the  common  green-leaved.  The  foliage 
is  striped,  variegated  with  yellow. 

SILVEE   STEIPED. 

No.  1339. — A  sub-variety  of  the  common  green-leaved,  and  the 
most  tender  of  all  sorts.  The  leaves  are  striped,  variegated  with 
white.  Both  the  gold  and  silver  striped* varieties  are  cultivated  for 
ornamental  plants. 

NARROW  LEAVED. 

No.  1340. — A  smaller  vaiiety,  with  less  branches,  and  not  as  much 
esteemed  as  the  others. 

COMMON   OR  GREEN  LEAVED. 

No.  1341. — This  is  the  best  variety  for  cultivation.  It  is  of  a 
spreading  habit,  and  is  more  aromatic  than  the  others.  The  leaves 
are  green  and  narrow,  being  rounded  at  the  ends. 


310  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


CLXXV, 


French  RUE.  .        German 

Rue.  Haute. 

No.  1342. — This  is  a  hardy,  perennial  plant,  having  a  peculiar 
odor.  The  leaves  are  bitter  and  so  acrid  as  to  blister  the  skin.  It 
is  a  stimulant  and  anti-spasmodic,  but  must  be  used  with  great 
caution,  for  unless  this  is  done  its  use  may  result  in  serious  injury. 
It  must  not  be  allowed  to  run  to  seed,  and  does  best  in  poor  soil. 
The  plant  is  rarely  used  in  this  country  for  other  than  medicinal 
purposes.  In  the  Eastern  countries  it  is  used  in  soups,  and  the 
leaves  are  boiled  and  pickled  in  vinegar. 

BROAD-LEAVED   RUE. 

No.  1343. — The  stem  is  shrubby  and  the  compound  leaves  are  of 
a  grayish-green  color,  having  a  strong  odor.  The  flowers  are  yellow, 
in  terminal,  spreading  clusters.  The  fruit  is  a  roundish  capsule, 
and  contains  four  rough,  black  seeds. 

NARROW-LEAVED  RUE. 

No.  1344.  This  variety  is  hardier  than  the  broad-leaved.  The 
flowers  are  produced  in  longer  and  looser  clusters. 


ARTICLE  CLXXVI. 


RUTA-BAGA— RUSSIAN  OR  SWEEDISH  TURNIP. 

Navet  Rave.  Stechriibe. 

No.  1345. — The  Ruta-baga,  or  Russian  Turnip,  is  extensively 
grown  for  a  farm  crop.  The  roots  are  closely  grained  and  very 
hard,  and  will  endure  a  considerable  degree  of  cold  without  injury. 
They  are  preserved  best  in  a  pit  or  cellar  during  the  winter,  and 
are  excellent  for  the  table  early  in  spring.  Sow  them  from  the  end 
of  June  to  the  middle  of  July,  in  drills  two  feet  apart,  and  thin 
them  out  to  eight  inches  in  the  rows. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  311 

AMERICAN   PURPLE   TOP. 

No.  1346. — This  is  the  leading  variety.  It  is  very  hardy  and 
productive,  being  equally  good  for  stock  or  table  use.  The  flesh  is 
yellow,  solid,  sweet  and  finely  flavored. 

SKIRTING'S  PURPLE  TOP. 

No.  1347. — This  is  a  good  large  variety  that  keeps  well.  The 
flesh  is  firm,  solid  and  sweet. 

SHAMROCK. 

No.  1348. — One  of  the  finest  purple  top  varieties  in  cultivation, 
and  keeps  well.  It  forms  a  handsome  bulb,  with  small  tops,  and 
but  a  few  leaves. 

LARGE   WHITE   FRENCH, 

No.  1349. — This  is  a  superior  and  popular  variety.  The  flesh, 
which  is  white,  firm  and  solid,  has  a  rich  sweet  flavor  and 
attains  a  large  size. 


ARTICLE  CLXXVII. 


French  RYE.  German 

Seigle.  Korn-Roggen. 

No.  1350. — Eye  is  a  hardy  (secale  cereal)  plant  and  is  closely 
allied  to  wheat.  The  grain  is  ground  into  flour  and  constitutes  a 
large  portion  of  breadstuff.  The  Eye  flour  is  the  best  for  making 
a  cake  called  conglofls,  which  is  of  Polish  origin.  The  various 
recipes  will  be  found  in  the  Book  on  Pastry. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1351. — Th«  time  for  sowing  is  from  the  middle  of  August  to 
the  first  of  September,  and  it  succeeds  best  in  sandy  soil.  One 
ploughing  is  given, "and  the  seed  is  sown  broadcast.  If  cut  before 
it  is  fully  ripe,  the  grain  makes  better  flour  and  produces  a  larger 
quantity.  If  intended  for  seed,  the  grain  should  be  fully  ripe. 


312  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLE  CLXXVIII 


French  SAFFRON.  German 

Safran.  Saffran.. 

No.  1352. — The  common  cultivated  Saffron  is  a  perennial  plant. 
It  is  cultivated  for  its  flowers,  which  are  large,  of  a  beautiful  lilac 
color,  and  are  used  in  dyeing,  and  to  make  the  cosmetic  called 
Rouge.  The  Saffron  has  been  known  for  ages  in  Greece  and  Asia 
Minor.  There  are  several  different  varieties.  The  French  Saffron 
is  much  superior  in  color,  and  the  Spanish  is  the  best  in  flavor. 
The  Saffron  is  cultivated  in  the  United  States  as  a  garden  flower 
only.  The  flowers  are  gathered  after  they  show  themselves,  as  their 
period  of  flowering  is  very  short.  The  stigmas,  or  summits  of  the 
petals,  with  a  portion  of  the  style,  are  separated  from  the  remain- 
der of  the  flower,  and  are  carefully  dried  by  aitificial  heat,  or  in  the 
sun.  During  this  process  they  are  made  into  the  form  of  a  cake, 
by  pressure;  but  the  finest  Spanish  Saffron  is  dried  loosely.  They 
are  distinguished  by  the  name  of  cake,  or  hay-Saffron.  It  must  be 
kept  in  a  dry  place,  in  well-stopped  vessels.  Saffron  has  a  peculiar 
aromatic  odor,  a  warm,  pungent,  "bitter  taste,  and  a  rich,  deep 
orange  color.  When  soaked  in  water  it  colors  the  liquid  an  orange- 
yellow  color.  It  is  much  used  in  the  Spanish  and  Southern  coun- 
tries for  culinary  purposes,  for  flavoring  soups  and  rice  dishes,  and 
also  by  confectioners,  and  for  medicinal  purposes.  From  the  seed 
a  fixed  oil  is  obtained  somewhat  similar  to  that  of  the  sunflower. 
On  account  of  the  high  price  of  the  Spanish  Saffron  it  is  adulterated 
frequently.  The  flowers  of  other  plants,  such  as  safflower,  marigold 
and  arnica,  are  mixed  with  the  genuine  stigmas.  They  may  be  de- 
tected by  their  shape,  which  is  rendered  obvious  by  putting  a 
portion  of  the  so-called  Saffron  in  hot  water,  which  will  cause  them 
to  expand.  Much  of  this  is  to  be  found  in  the  United  States,  and  is 
sold  under  the  name  of  African  Saffron.  Other  adulterations  are 
made  with  yellow-colored  chalk,  or  sulphate  of  barrium,  made  into 
a  thin  paste,  probably  with  honey,  and  attached  to  stigmas.  The 
pure  Saffron  will  always  be  clear  when  diluted  with  water,  assuming 
a  fine  pure  yellow  tint,  and  the  Saffron  its  red  color.  Less  than  the 
ordinary  brightness  of  color  in  the  Saffron  should  lead  to  the  sus- 
picion of  adulteration.  Saffron  should  not  be  very,  moist  nor  dry. 
The  freshest  is  the  best  and  should  not  be  over  a  year  old.  When 
it  is  put  in  acidulated  water  it  should  color  it  bright  yellow. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE. 
YELLOW  COLOEING  FOR  CULINARY  PURPOSES. 

No.  1353. — To  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Saffron  add  a  pint  of  water 
and  one  ounce  of  alum.  Let  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain 
it  through  a  towel  and  put  it  into  bottles.  When  it  is  cold,  cork 
the  bottles  tightly. 


French  SAGE.  German 

Sauge.  Salbei. 

No.  1354. — This  is  a  hardy,  perennial  plant,  possessing  some 
medicinal  properties.  It  is  cultivated  principally  for  use  as  a  condi- 
ment, and  is  used  more  extensively  than  any  other  herb,  both  green 
and  in  a  dried  state,  for  seasoning  stuffings,  meats,  stews  and  soups. 
It  is  also  used  for  flavoring  cheese,  and,  in  the  form  of  a  decoction, 
is  sometimes  employed  for  medicinal  purposes.  It  should  be  gath- 
ered for  drying  before  the  development  of  the  flowering  shoots; 
and  when  cultivated  for  its  leaves,  the  shoots  should  be  cut  off  as 
they  make  their  appearance.  The  product  will  be  largely  increased, 
as  the  leaves  are  put  forth  in  much  greater  numbers  and  attain 
larger  size. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1355. — Sow  it  early  in^spring,  in  very  rich  ground.  Cultivate 
it  often  and  thin  the  plants  to  sixteen  inches  apart.  The  plants 
will  survive  the  winter,  and,  if  divided,  will  give  a  second  crop 
superior  to  the  first  in  quality. 

BROAD-LEAVED   GREEN  SAGE. 

No.  1356. — The  stem  is  shrubby,  and  the  leaves  are  large,  broad 
and  heart-shaped,  woolly,  toothed  on  the  margin,  and  produced  on 
long  foot-stalks.  It  is  rarely  employed  for  cooking  purposes,  but 
for  medicinal  purposes  it  is  considered  better  than  any  other  sort. 

COMMON   OR  RED-LEAVED.* 

No.  1357. — This  is  the  common  Sage  leaf  of  the  garden,  and, 
with  the  green-leaved — which  is  but  a  sub-variety,  is  the  most 
esteemed  for  culinary  purposes.  The  young  stalk,  the  leaf-stems, 
the  ribs  and  the  nerves  of  the  leaves  are  purple.  The  young  leaves 


314  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

are  sometimes  tinged  with  the  same  color,  but  generally  change  by 
age  to  clear  green.  The  red-leaved  is  generally  regarded  as  pos- 
sessing a  higher  flavor  than  the  green-leaved,  and  is  preferred  for 
cultivation. 

GREEN-LEAVED. 

No.  1358. — A  variety  of  the  red-leaved.  The  young  shoots,  the 
leaf-stalks,  the  ribs  and  the  nerves  of  the  leaves  are  green. 

NARROW-LEAVED   GREEN   SAGE. 

No.  1359. — This  variety  is  mildly  flavored  and  is  the  most 
esteemed  of  all  the  sorts  for  use  in  a  crude  state.  It  is  also  one  of 
the  best  for  decoctions. 

DRIED   SAGE. 

No.  1360. — Sage,  when  used  for  culinary  purposes,  is  best  in  its 
dry  state,  whole  or  ground;  but  like  all  other  herbs,  it  should  be 
used  moderately. 


ARTICLE;  CLXXX. 


French  SAGO.  German 

Sayou.  Sago. 

No.  1361. — Sago  is  a  dry,  granulated  starch  that  is  imported  from 
the  East  Indies.  It  is  the  prepared  pith  of  th'e  Sago  and  other 
palms.  Numerous  trees  in  the  East  Indies  and  on  the  coast  of  the 
Indian  Ocean,  contain  a  farinaceous  pith  which  is  prepared  for 
nutriment  by  the  natives.  The  Sago  Palm  is  one  of  the  smallest, 
its  height  seldom  exceeding  thirty  feet.  The  trunk  is  thick,  erect 
and  cylindrical,  and  is  covered  with  a  beautiful  crown  of  foliage,  of 
large,  pinniate  leaves,  extending  in  all  directions  from  the  summit 
and  curving  gracefully  downwards.  The  medullary  matter  contains 
most  of  the  starch.  When  the  large  leaves  have  fallen  off  and  the 
flowers  commence  to  take  their  place,  the  tree  is  felled  and  the 
trunk  is  cut  into  billets  about  six  feet  long,  which  are  then  split  to 
facilitate  the  extraction  of  the  pith,  which  is  obtained  in  the  state 
of  a  coarse  powder.  This  is  mixed  with  water  in  a  trough  having 
-a  strainer  at  the  end.  The  water,  loaded  with  farina,  passes  through 
the  strainer  and  is  received  in  convenient  vessels,  where  it  is 
allowed  to  stand  until  it  has  settled.  It  is  then  drained  off  and  the 
farina  is  dried  and  formed  into  cakes  by  the  natives.  The  Sago  as 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  315 

sold  here  is  prepared  by  forming  the  meal  into  a  paste  with  water, 
and  rubbing  it  into  grains.  This  is  produced  in  the  greatest 
abundance  in  the  Moluccas,  but  the  finest  quality  comes  from  the 
Eastern  coast  of  Sumatra,  in  Malacca  and  Singapore.  It  is  refined 
so  as  to  give  the  grains  a  fine  pearly  lustre.  This  is  what  is  called 
Pearl  Sago,  which  is  the  kind  generally  used.  It  is  a  small 
grain  about  the  size  of  a  pin-head.  The  common  Sago  is  larger,  and 
the  grains  are  of  a  more  unequal  size  and  of  a  duller  aspect,  being 
mixed  with  more  or  less  dirty  looking  powder.  Sago  is  used  as  an 
article  of  diet,  being  nutritive  and  digestible,  and  wholly  destitute 
of  irritating  properties. 

SAGO  FOB   INVALIDS. 

No.  1362. — In  its  preparation  care  must  be  taken  to  boil  it  lon£ 
in  water  or  broth.  Drop  it  into  boiling  water  or  broth  while 
stirring  it,  so  the  grains  will  dissolve  thoroughly  and  not  form  in 
lumps.  Should  any  portion  not  be  dissolved  it  must  be  strained, 
as  it  might  offend  a  delicate  stomach.  A  table-spoonful  of  Sago 
to  a  pint  of  water  is  sufficient  for  ordinary  purposes.  It  may  be 
seasoned  with  sugar,  nutmeg  or  other  spices,  and  wine  may  be 
added  if  advisable. 

SAGO  GEUEL. 

No.  1363. — Boil  one  quart  of  water  in  a  saucepan  and  then  drop 
in  three  spoonfuls  of  Sago  slowly,  while  stirring  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  When  it  boils  steadily,  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil 
slowly  and  add  a  pinch  of  salt.  In  three-quarters  of  an  hour  add 
a  wine-glassful  of  good  white  wine,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  a  soup- 
spoonful  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Serve  it  hot 
or  put  it  in  an  earthen  bowl  and  serve  it  when  cold. 

SAGO   FOB   SOUPS. 

No.  1364. — Drop  the  amount  of  Sago  necessary  in  boiling  broth, 
or  consomme,  stirring  it  until  it  boils  steadily.  Sago  is  added  to 
many  purees  and  cream  soups  as  a  garniture.  Sago  or  tapioca  with 
chicken  or  veal  broth,  is  partaken  of  in  the  morning  by  prima  donnas 
to  a  considerable  extent. 

SAGO   SOUP  WITH  CBEAM. 

No.  1365. — Wash  the  Sago  in  cold  water,  then  drop  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan containing  one  quart  of  chicken  broth,  and  let  it  boil  slowly 
until  well  cooked.  Then  season  it  lightly  and  add  half  a  pint  of 
cream  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  which  will  render  it 
more  nourishing. 


316  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

ARTICLE 


French  SALAD    GARNITURES.  German 

Fourniture  de  Salade.  Salat  Ert'iuter. 

No.  1366.— Salad  garnitures  comprise  the  many  pungent  and  aro- 
matic herbs  that  are  mixed  with,  or  added  to,  green  salads  in 
small  quantities.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  herbs  that  are  used, 
all  of  which  are  described  under  their  respective  headings  :  Anise, 
Bell-Peppers,  Borage,  Burnet,  Bugloss,  Basil  Sweet,  Costmary, 
Coriander,  Chives,  Chervil,  Garlic,  Green  Onion,  Mustard  leaves, 
Nasturtium,  Oxalis,  Picridium,  Pepper  Cress,  Parsley,  Tarragon, 
Welsh  Onion,  Wood  Sorrel. 


CLXXXII. 


SALSIFY,  OR  OYSTER  PLANT. 

Salsifts.  Haferwurzel. 

No.  1367. — Salsify  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  is  principally 
cultivated  for  its  roots,  the  flavor  of  which  resembles  that  of  oysters. 
The  leaves  are  long  and  grass-like.  The  roots  are  long  and  tapering, 
like  the  parsnip,  and  when  grown  in  good  soil  measure  about  ten 
inches  in  length  and  an  inch  in  diameter.  Their  flavor  is  sweet  and 
delicate,  and  they  are  said  to  contain  medicinal  properties  which 
have  a  tendency  to  alleviate  consumption. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1368. — Salsify  succeeds  best  in  a  light  and  well  enriched  soil, 
which  should  be  worked  to  a  depth  of  twelve  inches.  The  manure 
should  be  well  rotted,  for  when  fresh  and  coarse  the  roots  will  grow 
irregular  and  ill-shaped.  Sow  early  and  quite  deep,  and  give  the 
same  general  culture  as  for  parsnips.  The  roots  are  hardy  and  may 
remain  out  all  winter,  but  should  be  dug  early  in  the  spring  as  they 
deteriorate  rapidly  after  growth  commences.  For  winter  use  store 
them  in  the  sand. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  IT  FOR  COOKING. 

No.  1369. — Scrape  the  skin  off  carefully  and  cut  them  in  halves. 
Then  slice  them  in  sticks  about  two  inches  long,  and  throw  them 
into  a  pan  of  acidulated  cold  water  to  keep  them  white. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  317 

SALSIFY,    WITH   BUTTER   SAUCE. 

No.  1370. — Prepare  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1369.  Put  a  saucepan 
on  the  fire  with  some  water  in  it,  and  when  it  boils  add  a  piece  of 
butter,  a  little  salt,  two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  the  Salsify.  Let 
them  cook  until  tender,  then  drain  them  in  a  colander  and  put  them 
in  a  saucepan.  Add  five  spoonfuls  of  Butter  sauce  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Then  toss  them  well 
together  and  serve  them. 

NOTE. — When  Salsify  is  to  be  cooked  and  kept  for  future  use,  add  to  the  water  when  it  boils,  two 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  diluted  with  cold  water.  When  they  are  cooked  put  them,  with  the  broth,  in  an 
earthen  bowl  or  jar,  cover  it  with  a  paper  cover,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 

SALSIFY,  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE. 

No.  1371. — Prepare  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1370,  and  when  they  are 
drained  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  glassful  of  cream.  When 
the  moisture  is  reduced  add  three  spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce  and  let 
it  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

SALSIFY,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  1372. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1370;  then 
drain  them  and  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of 
butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  toss  them  over  the  fire 
until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  Then  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Alle- 
mande  sauce  and  toss  them  well  together.  Before  serving,  add  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley. 

SALSIFY,  WITH  BROWN   SAUCE,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1373. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1370;  then 
drain  them  and  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of 
butter.  Toss  them  over  the  fire,  and  when  lightly  browned,  add 
some  thickened  veal  gravy,  to  which  add  a  few  drops  of  essence  of 
ham.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  again  for  a  few  minutes;  then  add  a 
little  finely  chopped  parsley  and  serve  hot. 

NOTE.— Four  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce  may  be  used  instead  of  the  veal  gravy. 
SALSIFY   FRIED   IN   BATTER. 

No.  1374. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1370;  then 
drain  them,  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  in  one  hour  they  will  be  ready 
for  use.  Then  take  them  out,  dip  them  in  a  batter  and  fry  them  in 
hot  lard.  Then  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  season  them  lightly  with 
salt,  and  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  with  fried  parsley  as  a  garniture. 


318  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

FRIED  SALSIFY,  VILLEROI. 

No.  1375. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1370;  then 
drain  them,  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  when  they  are  cold,  take  them  out  and  dip  them 
in  a  well-reduced  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce.  Then  arrange  them 
in  a  pan,  and  set  them  in  a  cool  place  so  the  sauce  will  adhere  well. 
After  this,  dip  them  gently  in  a  light  batter,  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard. 

SALSIFY  FRIED  IN   BUTTER. 

No.  1376. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1370;  then 
drain  them.  When  they  are  cold,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper, 
roll  them  in  flour.  Put  a  frying  pan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  in  it, 
on  the  tire.  When  the  butter  is  warm,  add  the  Salsify,  and  fry  them 

nicely  on  both  sides.     Serve  them  on  a  napkin. 
i 

SALSIFY  SALAD. 

No.  1377. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Salsify  as  in  No.  1370;  then 
drain  them,  and  when  they  are  cold,  slice  them  into  small  stems 
about  two  inches  long.  Put  them  in  a  salad  bowl,  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  sweet  oil  and  vinegar,  and  add  a  few  finely-sliced  gherkins. 
Mix  them  all  well  together,  dress  them  nicely,  and  sprinkle  a 
little  finely  chopped  parsley  over  the  salad. 


CLXXXiii. 


French  SALKP.  German 

Salep  or  Saloop.  Salep. 

No.  1378. — Salep  is  a  small,  oval,  irregular  or  oblong  tuber  of  a 
yellowish  color,  a  feeble  odor  and  a  mild  mucilaginous  taste.  It  is 
one  of  the  numerous  species  of  the  genus  Orchis.  It  is  prepared 
principally  in  the  Levant  and  in  Germany,  and  is  highly  nutritious, 
being  used  in  the  same  manner  as  sago,  tapioca  and  other  fecula 
for  invalids. 

SALEP  SOUP  FOR  INVALIDS. 

No.  1379. — Put  a  pint  of  chicken  or  veal  broth  in  a  saucepan, 
and  when  it  boils  add  in  slowly  a  teaspoonful  of  the  Salep  while 
stirring  it  briskly.  Let  it  boil  about  twenty  minutes,  season  it 
lightly  and  then  serve  it. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  319 


ARTICLE 


French  SALT.  Herman 

Sel.  Satz. 

No.  1380. — This  mineral  production,  so  necessary  to  mankind,  is 
universally  distributed  over  the  globe.  Most  animals  have  an 
instinctive  relish  for  it,  and  from  its  frequent  presence  in  the 
solids  and  fluids  of  the  animal  economy,  it  may  be  supposed  to 
perform  an  important  part  in  assimilation  and  nutrition.  It  is  used 
to  some  extent  in  medicine,  but  its  principal  use  is  in  cookery, 
where  it  is  employed  in  seasoning  certain  kinds  of  food  and  for  the 
preservation  of  meat. 


ARTICLE)  CLXXXV. 


SALT-PETRE. 

Salpetre.  Salpeter. 

No.  1381. — Salt-petre,  or  nitre,  is  both  a  natural  and  an  artificial 
product.  Its  quality  varies  considerably.  That  which  comes  in 
yellow  crystals  is  called  crude  salt-petre;  while  the  finer  lots,  in 
small,  comparatively  clear  crystals,  approaching  to  white,  are  called 
East  India  refined.  It  is  considered  refrigerant,  diuretic,  and 
diaphoretic,  and  is  known  to  be  a  powerful  antiseptic.  In  cookery 
it  is  employed  for  the  purpose  of  retaining  the  red  color  in  meat, 
such  as  beef,  tongue  or  ham,  when'  they  are  put  in  brine. 


ARTICLE 


SAMPHIRE,  OR  SEA-FENNEL. 

Crete  marine.  Meer/encheL 

No.  1382. — This  is  a  half-hardy  perennial  plant  that  is  common 
to  rocky  localities  on  the  sea-coast.  The  stalk,  which  is  from  one 
to  two  feet  in  height,  is  tender  and  succulent.  The  leaves  are  half 
an  inch  long,  green  in  color  and  fleshy.  They  have  a  warm,  pleas- 
ant, aromatic  flavor,  and  when  pickled  in  vinegar,  are  used  in  salads 
and  for  seasoning. 


320  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY^ 

GOLDEN  SAMPHIRE. 

No.  1383. — This  is  a  hardy  perennial  that  grows  naturally  on  the 
.sea-coast.  The  stalk  is  from  one  to  two  feet  high,  standing  erect, 
with  clusters  of  small  fleshy  leaves.  This  plant  is  used  for  the  same 
purposes,  but  lacks  the  pleasant  flavor  of  the  true  Samphire,  though 
it  is  often  sold  as  the  genuine  variety  and  used  as  a  substitute. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1384. — Either  kind  can  be  cultivated,  but  with  the  best  of 
-care  and  attention  it  is  impossible  to  secure  a  cultivated  variety 
possessing  the  flavor  of  the  wild  kinds.  It  is  best  to  put  them  in 
large  pots  in  the  garden,  filled  with  earth  and  sand.  They  must  be 
watered  well  in  dry  weather. 


ARTICLE: 


French  SAVORY.  German 

Sarriette.  Saturei. 

No.  1385. — Savory  is  a  perennial  plant,  with  a  rigid,  angular, 
branching  stem,  about  one  foot  and  a  half  high.  The  leaves,  when 
bruised,  emit  a  strong,  pleasant,  mint-like  odor.  They  are  used 
for  culinary  and  medicinal  purposes. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1386. — Summer  Savory  is  always  raised  from  seed  that  is 
.sown  in  April  or  May,  in  shallow  drills  fourteen  inches  apart. 
When  they  are  three  inches  high,  thin  them  out  to  six  inches  apart 
in  the  rows.  It  thrives  best  in  light,  mellow  soil. 

Winter  Savory  is  also  raised  from  seed,  or  may  be  increased  by  a 
division  of  the  roots.  The  seeds  are  sown  in  May  in  shallow  drills 
fifteen  inches  apart.  The  roots  may  be  divided  in  spring  or  autumn. 

SUMMER   SAVORY. 

No.  1387. — This  is  an  annual  species  of  Savory,  and  a  native  of 
the  southern  part  of  Europe.  It  is  about  one  foot  high,  erect  but 
slender,  and  produces  its  branches  in  pairs.  The  leaves,  which  are 
narrow  and  rigid,  have  a  pleasant  odor  and  a  warm,  aromatic  taste. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  321 

"When  the  plants  have  commenced  to  flower,  they  should  be  cut  to 
the  ground,  tied  in  small  bunches  and  dried  in  an  airy,  shady  situ- 
ation. 

WINTER   SAYORY. 

No.  1388. — This  is  a  hardy  evergreen  shrub,  about  a  foot  in 
height,  with  a  low,  branching  stem.  The  leaves  are  like  those  of 
Summer  Savory. 

USE   OF   SAVORY. 

No.  1389. — The  green  or  dried  aromatic  tops  of  the  plant  are 
used  to  mix  in  stuffing  for  meat  or  fowl,  in  faggots  for  stews,  in 
salads  and  with  peas  and  beans.  When  dried  it  is  sometimes  pul- 
verized, and  should  then  be  kept  in  well-stopped  vessels.  The 
dried  tops  are  preferred  to  the  green  ones  for  flavoring. 


ARTICLE  CLXXXVIU. 


French  SAVOY    CABBAGE.  German 

Chou  Savoy.  Savoy er  or  Mailiinder. 

No.  1390. — This  variety  of  Cabbage  is  a  native  of  Italy.  They 
are  distinguished  from  the  common  head  Cabbage  by  their 
peculiarly  wrinkled  or  blistered  leaves.  They  resemble  the  cauli- 
flower somewhat  in  texture  and  flavor,  having  but  little  of  the 
musky  odor  and  taste  of  the  large  varieties  of  Cabbage.  They 
are  hardier  and  more  easily  cultivated  than  the  other  varieties,  but 
will  seldom  survive  through  the  winter  in  open  ground.  A  little 
frosty  weather  is  considered  necessary  for  the  complete  perfection 
of  their  texture  and  flavor.  Their  treatment  during  winter  is  the 
same  as  that  of  common  Cabbages.  For  varieties  and  preparation, 
see  Cabbage,  Article  XXX. 


ARTICLE  CLXXXIX. 


SCORZONARA,  OR  BLACK  SALSIFY. 

Scorsonere.  HaferwurzeL 

No.  1391. — This  is  a  hardy,  perennial  plant.  The  root  is  tapering, 
slender  and  about  one  foot  in  length  and  an  inch  in  diameter  across 
the  crown;  the  skin  is  grayish-black  in  color,  and  coarse.     It   is 
21 


322  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

cultivated  exclusively  for  the  roots,  the  flesh  of  which  is  white, 
tender,  sugary  and  well  flavored.  Before  they  are  cooked  the 
coarse  outer  rind  should  be  scraped  off  and  the  roots  soaked  for  a 
few  hours  in  cold  water  to  extract  their  bitter  flavor.  Prepare  them 
for  table  use,  the  same  as  parsnips  or  as  oyster  plant  are  prepared. 

i-. 
••, 

CULTURE. 

No.  1392. — It  is  cultivated  in  the  same  way  as  carrots  or  turnips, 
being  sown  in  April  in  the  Southern  States,  or  in  July  or  August  in 
the  North,  as  the  plants  are  liable  to  flower  and  run  to  seed,  which 
impairs  the  value  of  the  roots.  Sow  them  fifteen  inches  apart  in 
drills  and  half  an  inch  deep.  The  roots  will  be  ready  for  use  in 
October.  If  required  for  use  during  winter,  store  them  away  the 
same  as  oyster  plant. 


ARTICLK  CXC. 


French  SCURVY    GRASS.  German 

Cochlearia.  Loffelkraut. 

No.  1393. — This  is  a  hardy,  annual,  maritime  plant,  common  to 
the  sea-coast.  The  root-leaves,  which  spread  regularly  from  a 
common  center,  are  heart-shaped,  fleshy,  smooth  and  glossy.  The 
stem  leaves  are  oblong  and  toothed  on  the  margin.  The  radical 
leaves  are  used  as  a  salad,  and  are  sometimes  mixed  with  cress. 
When  bruised  they  emit  an  unpleasant  odor,  and  have  an  acrid, 
bitter  taste  when  eaten.  The  plant  is  used  more  for  medicinal  pur- 
poses than  for  cookery. 


vK    CXCI. 


SEA  BEET. 

Belle.  Mangold. 

No.  1394. — This  is  a  hardy,  perennial  plant.  It  is  cultivated 
exclusively  for  its  leaves,  which  are  the  only  part  of  the  plant  eateu. 
They  are  an  excellent  substitute  for  spinach,  and  by  some  are  pre- 
ferred to  it.  If  planted  in  good  soil  it  will  supply  excellent  leaves 
for  years.  The  leaves  that  are  produced  earliest  are  the  best,  and 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  323 

are  fit  for  use  from  Ma j  until  when  the  plant  begins  to  run  to  flower. 
However,  they  may  be  continued  in  perfection  through  the  whole 
summer  and  autumn  by  cutting  off  the  flower  stems  as  they  arise. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  1395. — Sow  them  in  April,  in  rows  sixteen  inches  apart,  and 
one  inch  under  the  soil.  Thin  them  out  to  twelve  inches  apart  in 
the  rows.  The  leaves  should  not  be  cut  from  the  seedling  plants 
during  the  first  season.  There  are  two  varieties.  The  English  Sea 
Beet  is  a  dwarf  variety,  with  ovate  leaves  about  four  inches  in 
length,  of  a  thick,  fleshy  texture,  and  a  dark-green  color.  The 
Irish  Sea  Beet  is  about  the  same,  but  has  larger  leaves,  and  is  gen- 
erally considered  superior  to  the  English  variety. 


cxcil. 


French  SEA-KALE.  German 

Choux  Marins  ou  Crambe  Maritime.  Seekohl,  or  Meerkohl. 

No.  1396. — Sea-Kale  is  a  favorite  vegetable  in  the  Southern  States. 
The  young  shoots  that  appear  in  spring  are  the  parts  eaten,  but 
they  are  not  good  until  blanched.  Their  flavor  is  somewhat  like 
that  of  asparagus.  As  the  plant  is  perennial,  the  young  shoots  do 
not  appear  until  the  second  spring,  and  are  then  blanched.  The 
sprouts  are  cut  for  use  when  from  three  to  six  inches  high  and  con- 
tinue in  season  about  six  weeks.  They  are  prepared  the  same  as 
asparagus.  The  roots  are  injured  by  excessive  cutting,  and  some 
of  the  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  make  their  natural  growth,  so 
that  strength  may  be  secured  for  the  next  spring  crop. 

CULTUEE. 

No.  1397. — The  ground  should  be  trenched  one  or  two  feet  deep, 
according  to  the  soil,  and  should  be  well  enriched  throughout. 
When  the  plants  are  to  remain,  sow  the  seeds  in  April.  Keep  the 
plants  clear  from  weeds,  nip  otf  the  shoots  of  those  that  tend  to. run 
to  flower  and,  in  autumn,  when  the  leaves  have  decayed,  add  a  lib- 
eral dressing  of  compost  manure.  Early  in  spring  stir  a  rake  over 
the  bed,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  and 
•cover  them  from  eight  to  ten  inches  deep  with  the  material  intended 


324  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

for  blanching.     A  bed,  with  good  culture  and  moderate  use,  will 
produce  well  for  five  or  six  years. 

SEA-KALE,    WITH   BUTTER  SAUCE. 

No.  1398. — Remove  the  leaves,  wash  and  peel  the  stems  carefully, 
and  tie  them  in  bunches  the  same  as  asparagus  is  tied.  Then  boil 
them  in  lightly  salted  water  and,  when  cooked,  drain  them.  Serve 
them  on  a  napkin  or  on  a  piece  of  toast,  with  Butter  sauce  or  Cream 
sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

SEA-KALE,    HOLLANDAISE  STYLE. 

No.  1399. — Prepare  the  Sea-Kale  as  in  No.  1398,  and  when  it  is. 
cooked,  serve  it  on  a  dish  with  some  Hollandaise  sauce  poured 
over  it. 

SEA-KALE  WITH  BROWN  SAUCE. 

No.  1400. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Sea-Kale  as  in  No.  1398.  Then 
drain  it,  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with'  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  it 
over  a  brisk  fire,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little- 
Espagnole  sauce,  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  little  finely  chopped 
parsley. 

PUREE  OF   SEA-KALE. 

No.  1401. — Cut  the  Sea-Kale  in  small  pieces  and  boil  them  in 
lightly  salted  water.  When  done,  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  sugar;  then  toss  them  over  a  brisk 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and  moisten  them  with  some  white  broth. 
When  the  moisture  is  reduced,  add  some  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce, 
rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  it  in  a  flat  saucepan  and  add  a  glass, 
of  cream  to  reduce  the  puree  to  its  proper  consistency.  Add  a 
piece  of  butter  before  serving. 


CXCIII. 


SEMOULE. 

Semoule.  Semoule. 

No.  1402. — Semoule  is  a  paste  similar  to   vermicelli,  but   comes 

in  small  hard  grains.     It  is  made  from  the  whitest  part   of  wheat 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  325 

flour,  and  in  America  is  largely  sold  under  the  name  of  farina  (see 
Farina,  Article  LXXXVIII).  The  White  Semoule  is  made  from  rice 
flour,  and  the  yellow  kind  from  wheat  flour,  to  which  a  saffron  dye 
is  added,  with  some  coriander  and  the  yolks  of  eggs.  The  yellow 
Semoule  is  considered  best  and  is  much  relished  when  boiled  in  milk 
and  sweetened.  Semoule  is  used  for  soups  and  a  variety  of  culinary 
preparations,  and  is  a  good  food  for  invalids. 

CONSOMME,   WITH   SEMOULE. 

No.  1403. — Put  four  quarts  of  Consomme  in  a  saucepan,  and 
when  it  boils  add  in  slowly  half  a  pound  of  Semoule,  stirring  it 
well  so  it  will  not  get  lumpy.  Let  it  boil  slowly  for  twenty  min- 
utes, season  to  taste,  then  skim  it  and  serve. 

NOTE.— A  Consomme  with  farina,  manioca,  sago,  tapioca,  vermicelli,  or  any  kind  of  paste  may  be 
made  the  same  as  the  above  and,  by  adding  a  little  cream  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  eggs,  it  will  be 
more  nourishing. 

SMALL   CKUSTS   OF   SEMOULE,    PALEEMITAINE. 

No.  1404. — Put  three  quarts  of  clear  white  broth  in  a  saucepan, 
add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and,  when  it  boils,  add 
in  slowly  two  pounds  of  Semoule,  stirring  it  gently,  so  it  will  not 
get  lumpy.  Then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly  until 
thoroughly  cooked,  keeping  it  firm.  When  done  take  it  off  of  the 
fire  and  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  six  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese.  Mix  it  well  together  and  put  it  in  a  buttered  square  tin 
pan,  having  the  mixture  about  one  and  a  half  inches  deep.  Smooth 
the  surface  evenly,  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover  and  set  it 
aside  to  get  cold.  Then  turn  it  out  on  a  table  and,  with  a  round 
cutter  the  size  of  a  dollar,  cut  out  as  many  pieces  as  possible.  Boll 
them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  then 
bread  them  again.  Form  them  nicely  in  shape  and,  with  a  cutter 
ihe  size  of  a  twenty-five  cent  piece,  make  a  slight  impression  on  the 
top  of  each  to  mark  the  cover.  Then  fry  them  in  hot  lard  and, 
when  nicely  browned,  drain  them  and  in  a  few  minutes  take  off  the 
cover  and  scoop  out  the  center,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  crust. 
Keep  them  warm  until  ready  for  use.  Then  make  a  garniture  of 
small  boiled  macaroni  (spaghetti),  cut  in  pieces  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
long,  mixed  with  the  same  quantity  of  small  pieces  of  the  breast  of 
roasted  quails  or  partridges,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  lean  boiled 
ham  and  artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  small  pieces.  Put  the  garniture 
in  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice 
and  mix  it  gently  together.  Then  fill  the  crusts  with  the  garniture 
and  serve  hot. 


326  BARBER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY 

BALLS  OF  SEMOULE  (QUENELLES,)  VILLEROI. 

No.  1405. — Put  one  quart  of  milk  in  a  saucepan  and,  when  it  boils, 
add  in  slowly  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  Semoule,  stirring  it 
gently,  so  it  will  not  get  lumpy.  Then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire 
to  cook  slowly  until  it  is  thoroughly  cooked,  keeping  it  firm.  Take 
it  off  of  the  fire,  let  it  cool  a  little,  then  add  a  handful  of  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese  and  the  yolks  of  ten  raw  eggs,  mixing  it  well,  and 
season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Then  let  it  get  cool. 

Now  cut  some  truffles,  mushrooms  and  the  breast  of  a  roasted 
fowl,  in  a  short  Julienne,  and  add  them  to  a  succulent  and  well  re- 
duced Madeira  wine  or  Allemande  sauce,  and  set  it  aside  to  get 
cold. 

Prepare  some  small,  oblong  granulated  Tartlet  moulds  and  butter 
them  with  clarified  butter.  Put  in  each  mould  a  thin  layer  of 
Semoule  and  smooth  it  neatly  with  a  knife,  leaving  the  centre  hol- 
low. Then  fill  them  with  the  above  garniture,  cover  the  top  with 
Semoule,  allowing  it  to  form  on  top  in  a  semi-oval  shape,  and 
smooth  it  off  neatly.  Set  them  aside  to  get  cold  and  firm.  Then 
take  them  out  of  the  moulds  and  dip  them  in  a  cool  Villeroi  sauce, 
place  them  in  a  pan  side  by  side,  and  set  the  pan  on  the  ice  so 
the  sauce  will  adhere  to  them.  Then  trim  them  nicely,  roll  them 
in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread  them 
again.  (Handle  them  very  carefully.)  Now  fry  them  in  hot 
lard  and,  when  nicely  colored,  drain  them  and  serve  them  on  a 
napkin. 


ARTICLE  CXCIV. 


French  SHALLOT,   OR   ESCHALOT.  German 

Echalote.  Schalotte. 

No.  1406. — The  Shallot  is  a  native  of  Palestine,  and  is  used  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  onion,  or  garlic.  The  root  of  the  plant  is 
composed  of  several  small  bulbs  united  at  the  base,  the  whole  being 
enclosed  in  a  thin  skin,  varying  in  color  in  the  different  varieties. 
The  ripening  will  be  indicated  by  the  decay  of  the  leaves.  After 
the  bulbs  are  dried  they  should  be  stored  in  a  light,  dry  situation. 
When  exposed  to  frost  or  put  in  a  damp  cellar  they  rapidly  decay. 
In  flavor  it  is  mild  and  pleasant,  resembling  the  leek.  They  are 
prepared  and  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  onions  or  garlic. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  327 

CULTUEE. 

No.  1407. — The  Shallot  will  thrive  in  any  soil  that  is  adapted  to 
the  onion.  The  bulbous  roots  are  readily  increased  by  off  sets,  but 
seldom  attain  a  large  size.  Plant  them  in  April  in  drills  one  foot 
apart,  and  cover  them  lightly  with  soil. 

COMMON   SMALL   SHALLOT. 

No.  1408. — This  is  an  excellent  early  variety,  and  keeps  well. 
The  bulbs  are  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  have 
a  reddish  yellow  skin. 

JEESEY. 

No.  1409. — A 'very  early  variety,  quite  tender,  but  decays  early. 
The  large  bulbs  are  enclosed  in  a  light-brown  skin  as  fine  in  texture 
as  the  onion  skin. 

LONG  KEEPING. 

No.  1410. — This  variety  resembles  the  common  Shallot,  but  is 
considered  superior  to  it  on  account  of  its  keeping  qualities,  and  as 
it  is  less  subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  maggot.  It  will  keep  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  months. 

ESSENCE   OF  SHALLOTS. 

No.  1411. — Chop  one  dozen  Shallots  finely,  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  one 
pint  of  veal  gravy  and  let  it  reduce  to  one-third  of  its  quantity. 
Then  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  strain  it  through  a  towel. 


CXCV. 


French  SHEPHERD'S     PURSE.  German 

Capselle.  Tiischdkraut. 

No.  1412. — This  is  a  hardy  annual  plant  that  grows  naturally  in 
gardens.  The  root  leaves  spread  out  from  a  common  centre,  and 
in  good  soil  attain  a  length  of  about  eight  inches.  The  stem  leaves 
rest  closely  upon  the  stalk,  being  oval  at  the  base.  Under  high 
cultivation  the  plants  will  attain  a  diameter  of  twenty  inches.  It 
is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  spinach,  or  is  served  like  en- 
dives, making  an  excellent  salad. 


328  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1413. — Sow  them  in  May  in  shallow  drills  fourteen  inches 
apart  and  thin  the  young  shoots  to  four  inches  apart.  Cover  the 
beds  with  coarse  stable  litter  late  in  Autumn,  and  remove  it  in  the 
latter  part  of  February.  The  plants  will  be  ready  for  use  in  March 
or  April. 


cxcvi. 


French  SIEVA,   OR   SMALL   LIMA    BEAN.  German 

Sieve  (Petite  Feve).  Bohne, 

No.  1414. — The  Sieva  is  a  variety  of  the  Lima  Bean,  the  plant 
attaining  a  height  of  ten  feet.  The  pods  are  small  and  uniform  in 
size,  generally  about  three  inches  long  and  seven  inches  wide. 
When  young  they  are  green  and  wrinkled,  but  when  ripe  they  turn 
to  a  pale  yellowish-brown.  They  are  a  little  earlier  than  the  Lima 
Bean,  but  require  the  whole  season  for  their  complete  maturity. 
The  seeds  are  white,  or  of  a  dull  yellowish-white,  broad  and  flat- 
tened. They  are  similar  to  the  Lima  Beans,  and  are  almost  as 
delicate  and  richly  flavored.  The  young  pods  are  hard  and  tough, 
and  are  never  eaten.  This  is  the  most  productive  of  all  varieties. 

MOTTLED  SIEVA. 

No.  1415. — A  sub-variety  of  the  Sieva,  the  only  difference  be- 
tween them  being  in  the  variegated  character  of  the  seeds,  which 
are  of  a  dull  white  color,  spotted  and  streaked  with  purple. 


CXCVI  I. 


SKIRRET. 

Eerie.  Chervi.  Zuckerwurzel. 

No.  1416. — Skirret  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant  that  is  cultivated 
for  its  roots,  which  are  produced  in  bunches  at  the  crown  or  neck 
of  the  plant.  They  are  oblong  and  fleshy,  with  a  russet-brown  skin, 
the  flesh  being  white  and  sugary.  When  well  grown  they  measure 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF   TASTE.  329 

from  six  to  eight  inches  in  length  and  almost  an  inch  in  diameter. 
They  are  the  whitest  and  sweetest  of  esculent  roots  and  are  very 
nourishing.  They  are  prepared  for  the  table  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  oyster  plant. 


ARTICLK  CXCVin. 


SNAKE  OR  SERPENT    CUCUMBER. 

French  German 

Concombre  Serpentine.  Schlangengurfce. 

No.  1417. — This  resembles  the  musk-melon  in  its  manner  of 
growth  and  in  the  color  and  taste  of  the  ripe  fruit,  which  is  slender 
and  flexuous.  It  is  about  three  feet  long  and  is  often  gracefully 
coiled  in  a  serpent-like  form.  The  skin  is  green,  and  its  iiesh  is 
white  when  young  and  yellow  at  maturity.  It  is  grown  principally 
on  account  of  its  peculiar  shape  for  a  garden  vegetable,  but  is 
seldom  used  in  cookery.  The  fruit  may  be  pickled  in  the  same 
manner  as  common  cucumbers. 

CULTUKE. 

No.  1418. — Sow  the  seeds  in  May  in  hills  six  feet  apart,  and  cover 
them  with  half  an  inch  of  soil.  Give  them  the  same  attention  that 
cucumbers  or  melons  require. 


CXCIX. 


SORREL. 

•Oseille.  Sauerampfer. 

No.  1419. — Sorrel  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant.  The  species  as 
well  as  the  varieties  differ  to  a  considerable  extent  in  height  and 
general  habit,  yet  their  usage  is  nearly  the  same.  The  finest  roots 
are  obtained  from  seedlings.  These  varieties  are  propagated  by 
dividing  the  roots.  This  method  must  be  adopted  in  the  propaga- 
tion of  the  divicious  kinds  when  the  male  plants  are  required.  All 
of  the  varieties  will  send  up  a  flower-stalk  in  summer,  and  it  is 
necessary  to  cut  the  stalk  when  it  first  develgps  in  order  to  render 


330  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

the  leaves  larger  and  more  tender.  Sorrel  is  used  for  soups  and 
purees,  and  is  preserved  for  winter  use.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
wholesome  vegetables,  and  would  be  particularly  beneficial  to  that 
class  of  the  community  that  live  much  upon  salt  provisions. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1420. — Sorrel  is  cultivated  easily,  and  may  be  grown  in  almost 
any  soil  or  situation,  but  thrives  best  in  rich,  moist  soil.  Sow  it  in 
April  in  drills  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  cover  it  with  half  an  inch 
of  soil.  Thin  them  out  to  ten  inches  apart. 

BELLEVILLE   SORREL. 

No.  1421. — The  leaves  are  about  ten  inches  long,  by  six  inches 
in  diameter,  and  are  larger  and  less  acid  than  the  common  garden 
Sorrel.  The  leaf  stems  are  red  at  the  base. 

BLISTERED-LEAP   SORREL. 

No.  1422. — This  is  similar  to  the  common  variety  except  that  the 
foliage  is  blistered.  It  develops  slowly  and  consequently  remains 
longer  in  season. 

FERVENT' s  LARGE  SORREL. 

No.  1423. — This  is  a  hardy  and  excellent  variety  that  produces 
abundantly.  The  leaves  are  large,  of  a  yellowish-green  color,  and 
are  put  forth  very  early. 

SARSCELLE  BLOND  SORREL. 

No.  1424. — This  is  a  sub-variety  of  the  Belleville,  with  larger  and 
narrower  leaves,  and  pale  leaf-stems.  It  puts  forth  the  leaves 
earlier  than  the  common  Sorrel  and  is  of  excellent  quality. 

FRENCH,  OR  ROUND-LEAVED  SORREL. 

No.  1425. — The  leaves  vary  in  form,  being  roundish  and  heart- 
shaped,  smooth,  glaucous  and  entire  on  the  borders.  The  leaves 
are  more  aciduous  than  any  of  the  other  varieties,  and  for  this  reason 
are  preferred  by  many. 

SORREL   WITH   CREAM. 

No.  1426. — Pick  the  stems  off  of  the  Sorrel,  wash  the  leaves  in 
plenty  of  cold  water,  then  drain  them,  and  chop  them  finely  with  a 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  331 

head  of  lettuce,  the  same  quantity  of  young  beet  leaves,  and  a 
little  chervil.  Mis  them  well  together;  then  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  stir  them  slowly  until  the 
butter  is  melted.  Then  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and,  when  well 
cooked,  add  a  pint  of  cream  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  five  raw  eggs. 
Serve  hot. 

SOEEEL   WITH   GEAVY. 

No.  1427. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Sorrel  as  in  No.  1426,  and,  when 
cooked,  drain  off  some  of  the  moisture,  and  add  a  good  gravy  in- 
stead of  the  cream. 

SOEEEL  PUEEE,  FOE  GAENITUEES. 

No.  1428. — Prepare  and  wash  the  Sorrel  as  in  No.  1426;  then  put 
it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  water,  and  season  it  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Set  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  stir  it  with  a  wooden  spoon 
until  it  is  well  cooked.  Then  drain  it  in  a  colander,  and  in  twenty 
minutes  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  four  ounces  of  butter 
and  two  spoonfuls  of  flour  in  a  saucepan,  and  let  it  cook  for  five 
minutes,  stirring  it  well.  Add  the  Sorrel,  moisten  it  with  a  pint  of 
broth  and  let  it  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Then  add  a  cup  of  milk 
diluted  with  the  yolks  of  three  raw  eggs,  and  stir  the  whole  well 
until  thoroughly  mixed. 

\ 

SOEEEL  PUEEE,    WITH   SAUCE,    FOE   GAENITUEES. 

No.  1429. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Sorrel  as  in  No.  1426,  and  when 
it  is  rubbed  through  the  sieve,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  four  spoon- 
fuls of  Allemande  sauce.  When  it  is  reduced  to  its  proper  con- 
sistency, season  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Before  serving, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  mixing  it  all  well. 

SOEEEL  SOUP. 

,  No.  1430. — Wash  and  trim  two  pounds  of  Sorrel,  two  heads  of 
lettuce  and  a  little  chervil,  and  then  cut  them  in  fine  shreds.  Put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  six  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  the  whole 
over  the  fire  for  twenty-five  minutes  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
it  is  melted.  Then  add  four  spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  let  it  cook 
for  ten  minutes,  stirring  it  well.  (Dilute  the  flour  so  there  will  be 
no  lumps.)  Then  add  in  slowly  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  as 
soon  as  it  boils  up,  set  it  to  one  side  to  boil  slowly,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Twenty  minutes  later  add  one  quart  of  broth. 


332  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

When  it  is  ready  to  serve,  prepare  the  following:  Dilute  a  pint 
of  cream  with  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs;  beat  it  up  well,  and 
strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Add  this  to  the  soup  with  six  ounces  of 
butter  stirring  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Cat  two 
French  rolls  in  fine  slices,  brown  them  nicely  in  the  oven,  and  put 
them  in  a  soup  tureen.  Then  pour  the  soup  over  them  and  serve. 

SORREL  SOUP  FOR  FAST  DAYS. 

No.  1431. — Prepare  the  soup  as  in  No.  1430,  but  instead  of  broth 
add  one  quart  of  milk  diluted  with  six  raw  eggs. 

SORREL  SOUP  WITH  CREAM. 

No.  1432. — Prepare  the  soup  as  in  No.  1430,  and,  when  the  flour 
is  cooked,  moisten  it  with  three  quarts  of  chicken  or  veal  broth, 
stirring  it  until  it  boils.  Then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil 
slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

When  ready  to  serve,  prepare  the  following:  Dilute  a  pint  of 
milk  with  the  yolks  of  eight  raw  eggs  and  six  ounces  of  butter. 
Add  this  to  the  soup,  stirring  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted. 
'Cut  two  French  rolls  in  fine  slices,  brown  them  in  the  oven,  and 
put  them  in  a  soup  tureen.  Then  pour  the  soup  over  them  and 
•serve. 

PRESERVED   SORREL. 

No.  1433. — Wash  and  trim  the  Sorrel  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  quart  of  water.  Then  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  stirring  it 
until  it  is  melted.  Then  drain  it  in  a  colander  and  let  it  stand  for 
•one  hour.  After  this  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  in  quart 
tin  cans  or  in  jars.  Close  them  hermetically,  and  boil  them  in  a 
hot  water  bath  for  one  hour  and  a  half.  When  ready  to  use,  finish 
it  the  same  as  in  Nos.  1426  and  1427. 


cc. 


French  SOUTHERWOOD,   OR   BALM-MINT.  German 

-Aurome  Citronndle.  Stabwur*. 

No.  1434. — This  is  a  hardy  shrubby  plant,  which  is  propagated 
by  dividing  the  roots.  The  leaves,  which  are  pale-green  in  color, 
are  divided  into  narrow,  thread-like  segments,  and  have  a  strong, 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OP  TASTE.  333 

resinous,  aromatic  and  pleasant  odor,  but  are  bitter  to  the  taste. 
The  root  is  seldom  used,  but  the  leaves  and  young  branches  are 
employed  in  the  same  manner  and  for  the  same  purposes  as  common 
wormwood. 


ARTICLE;  CCI. 


French  SPANISH    OYSTER    PLANT.  German 

Salsifts.  Haferwurz* 

No.  1435. — This  is  generally  treated  as  an  annual  plant  when  cul- 
tivated. The  roots  are  almost  white,  fleshy,  long  and  tapering  in 
their  general  form.  When  they  are  bruised,  a  thick,  viscous  fluid 
exudes,  which  is  almost  flavorless,  and  of  a  milky-white  color.  It 
is'cultivated  exclusively  for  its  roots,  which  are  taken  up  in  Sep- 
tember or  October,  and  are  served  during  the  winter.  They  have  a. 
pleasant,  delicate  flavor,  and  are  healthful  and  nutritious.  They 
are  prepared  the  same  as  Salsify  or  Oyster  Plant.  See  Article 
CLXXXII. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1436. — Sow  the  seeds  in  April,  in  drills  fourteen  inches  apart, 
and  cover  them  with  one  inch  of  soil.  Thin  the  young  plants  out 
to  five  inches  apart,  and  during  the  summer  treat  the  growing  crops 
as  you  would  parsnips  or  carrots. 


ARTICLK    CCII. 


SPEARMINT. 

Menthe  Verte.  Frauenmunze.. 

No.  1437.— Spearmint  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant,  and  is  generally 
cultivated  in  gardens,  but  grows  naturally  about  springs  of  water, 
and  in  rich,  wet  localities.  It  may  be  grown  from  seed,  but  is 
propagated  best  by  a  division  of  the  roots,  which  are  long  and  creep- 
ing, and  readily  establish  themselves  wherever  they  are  planted. 
The  roots  may  be  set  either  in  autumn  or  spring.  Spearmint  is 
used  mixed  in  salads  and  boiled  with  green  peas,  and  with  the  ad- 
dition of  sugar  and  vinegar  forms  a  much  esteemed  relish  for  roasted 
lamb.  The  common  Mint  is  superior  to  Spearmint  for  every 
purpose. 


334  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLE  CCIII 


Frcucli  SPICES.  Herman 

Epice.  Wiirze. 

No.  1438. — Spices  are  used  to  season,  aromatize  and  enrich 
numerous  culinary  preparations.  They  are  all  vegetable  substances 
with  the  exception  of  salt.  Their  importance  cannot  be  overesti- 
mated as  they  are  used  constantly,  yet  often  wrongfully.  The  art 
of  spicing  or  seasoning  properly  is  one  that  must  be  acquired,  and 
experience  is  the  best  teacher.  Many  preparations  would  be  indi- 
gestible and  almost  tasteless  without  the  use  of  spices.  Salt  is 
probably  used  most,  and  after  it  comes  the  onions,  shallots, 
chives,  and  garlic.  The  onion  is  used  principally  as  an 
alimentary  substance,  while  the  others  may  be  considered 
energetic  stimulants  to  the  appetite.  High  seasoning  is  more  in 
vogue  in  the  Southern  States  and  in  all  warm  climates,  than  in  the 
North.  The  French,  as  a  rule,  use  less  strong  spices  in  cooking 
than  any  other  nation,  preferring  aromatic  herbs  instead,  which 
answer  the  same  purpose  and  are  less  exciting.  India  furnishes  the 
major  portion  of  strong  spices,  such  as  mulligatawny,  chutney, 
curry,  etc. 

SPICES  FOR  SALTED   BEEF. 

No.  1439. — Home-made  spices  are  far  superior  to  many  of  those 
bought  from  dealers,  as  the  latter  kinds  are  generally  adulterated, 
and  if  not  kept  tightly  corked  lose  their  aromatic  flavor  by  evap- 
oration. The  following  is  the  best  recipe  for  making  Spices  for 
salted  beef :  Procure  the  following  quantities  of  dried  herbs:  Two 
ounces  each  of  thyme,  sage,  nutmeg,  cloves,  mace,  and  bay  leaves; 
three  ounces  of  white  pepper,  and  one  ounce  each  of  marjoram  and 
rosemary.  Then  pound  each  kind  separately  in  a  mortar  and  sift 
them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  mixture  in  bottles  and  keep 
them  tightly  corked.  When  ready  to  use  it  add  one  ounce  of  the 
Spice  to  one  pound  of  salt. 

SPICED   SALT,    FOR   STUFFINGS. 

No.  1440. — Procure  the  following  quantities  of  dried  herbs:  One- 
half  of  an  ounce  each  of  powdered  thyme,  cloves,  nutmeg,  white  or 
black  pepper,  and  one-quarter  of  an  ounce  each  of  powdered  bay 
leaves,  marjoram,  and  red  pepper.  Mix  them  with  one  and  a  half 
pounds  of  fine  salt,  then  put  them  in  bottles  and  keep  them  tightly 
corked.  Use  it  for  stuffing. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  335 

INFUSION   OF   SPICES  FOE  TURTLE  SOUP. 

No.  1441. — Put  a  few  fresh  marjoram  leaves  in  a  saucepan  and 
add  equal  quantities  of  thyme,  basil,  savory  and  parsley,  with  two 
bay  leaves,  three  chopped  shallots,  and  some  trimmings  of  fresh 
mushrooms.  (Dried  mushrooms  can  be  used  if  desired.)  Then 
boil  one  pint  of  good  Maderia  wine  and  pour  it  over  the  herbs,  etc. 
Cover  the  saucepaa  tightly,  and  in  half  an  hour  strain  the  infusion 
through  a  napkin  and  add  it  to  a  clear  turtle  soup. 

NOTE.— Should  the  turtle  soup  be  thick  instead  of  clear,  use  powdered  spices  instead  of  leaves 
and  add  them  to  the  stock. 

MIXED   SPICES. 

No.  1442. — The  following  mixture  of  Spices  will  always  be  found 
useful  in  the  kitchen.  Procure  the  following  quantities  of  ground 
Spices:  Eight  ounces  of  thyme,  one  ounce  of  bay  leaves,  half  an 
ounce  of  marjoram,  half  an  ounce  of  rosemary,  one  and  a  half  ounces 
of  nutmeg,  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  cloves,  one  ounce  of  white 
pepper,  and  half  an  oiince  of  red  pepper.  Mix  them  well  together, 
put  them  in  bottles  and  keep  them  tightly  corked.  These  Spices 
may  be  used  as  they  are,  or  may  be  mixed  with  salt.  Three  ounces 
of  Spice  is  the  proper  quantity  for  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  salt. 

SPICED   SAUCE. 

No.  1443. — Put  in  a  bowl  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  one 
ounce  of  Anchovy  paste,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  and 
a  wine-glassful  each  of  walnut  and  tomato  catchup  (strained).  Add 
to  this  one  and  a  half  quarts  of  white  wine  vinegar,  and  mix  it  well 
together.  Then  put  it  in  an  earthen  jar,  cover  it,  and  set  it  in  a 
saucepan  containing  water.  Let  it  boil  for  two  hours;  then  take  out 
the  jar,  set  it  aside  for  a  week,  and  then  filter  the  sauce.  Put  it  in 
bottles  and  cork  them  tightly. 


SPICES,  HEKES   AND   FLAVOES. 

No.  1444. — The  following  Spices,  Herbs  and  Flavors  should  al- 
ways be  kept  in  every  family  kitchen :  Fine  and  coarse  salt,  whole 
and  ground  red,  white  and  black  pepper,  cloves,  allspice,  nutmeg, 
mace,  dried  thyme,  sage,  marjoram,  bay  leaves,  and  the  mixed 
spices;  garlic,  shallots,  English  mustard,  powdered  and  stick  cin- 
namon. The  flavors  are  vanilla,  lemon,  orange,  orange-flower 
water,  olive  oil,  wine,  tarragon  and  Chili  pepper  vinegar;  granu- 
lated, powdered  and  cube  white  sugar  and  brown  sugar. 


336  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLB  cciv. 


French  SPINACH   OR   SPINAGE.  German 

Epinard.  Spinat. 

No.  1445. — Spinach  is  a  hardy  annual  plant,  and  is  said  to  be  of 
Asiatic  origin.  The  leaves  and  young  stems  are  the  only  parts  of 
the  plant  that  are  used,  being  extremely  wholesome  and  palatable, 
and  retaining  their  bright  green  color  after  being  cooked.  The 
leaves  are  smooth  and  oval-oblong  shaped,  though  varying  in  the 
different  varieties.  Spinach  is  prepared  in  various  ways  and  is 
eaten  with  almost  every  kind  of  meat.  The  expressed  juice  is  used 
to  impart  a  greenish  color  to  certain  dishes.  It  affords  but  little 
nourishment,  but  when  eaten  freely,  is  mildly  laxative,  diuretic  and 
cooling. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1446. — It  should  be  planted  in  very  rich  ground.  Sow  it  a 
foot  apart,  in  drills,  and  commence  thinning  out  the  plants  when 
the  leaves  are  an  inch  wide.  When  they  are  two  or  three  inches 
wide,  they  will  be  fit  to  gather.  This  is  done  by  cutting  them  up 
with  a  knife  entirely  to  the  bottom,  or  by  only  cropping  the  large 
outer  leaves.  The  root  and  heart  should  remain  to  shoot  out  again 
according  to  the  season. 

FLANDERS   SPINACH. 

No.  1447. — This  is  a  winter  variety,  and  is  considered  superior  to 
the  Prickly  Spinach  which  is  in  general  cultivation  during  the 
winter  season.  The  seeds  are  sown  about  the  last  of  August,  in 
drills  one  foot  apart  and  nearly  an  inch  deep.  The  Prickly-seeded 
Spinach  is  cultivated  and  used  the  same  way  as  this  variety. 

LETTUCE-LEAVED   SPINACH. 

No.  1448. — This  is  a  fine  productive  variety,  having  short  stems 
and  large  leaves  that  are  rounded  and  of  a  deep  green  color  tinged 
with  blue. 

SORREL-LEAVED   SPINACH. 

No.  1449. — The  leaves  are  pointed,  of  medium  size,  deep  green, 
thick  and  fleshy. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE,  337 

SUMMER  ROUND-LEAVED   SPINACH. 

No.  1450. — This  variety  should  be  sown  early  in  spring,  but  it 
soon  runs  to  seed,  particularly  in  warm,  dry  weather.  The  leaves 
are  large,  round,  thick  and  fleshy. 

WINTER   COMMON  PRICKLY   SPINACH. 

No.  1451. — This  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant  that  is  prepared  in  the 
same  way  as  the  common  Spinach.  The  leaves  are  arrow-shaped, 
smooth,  deep  green,  undulated  on  the  borders,  and  mealy  on  the 
under  surface. 

HOW  TO   PREPARE   SPINACH   FOR  BOILING. 

No.  1452. — Remove  the  large  stems,  wash  the  leaves  in  plenty  of 
cold  water,  and  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Then  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  containing  some  lightly  salted  boiling  water  and,  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  keep  the  Spinach  under  the  water,  letting  it  boil 
over  a  brisk  fire  until  cooked.  Then  immerse  it  in  cold  water, 
drain  it,  and  press  out  all  of  the  water. 

SPINACH,    ENGLISH   STYLE. 

No.  1453. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Spinach  as  in  No.  1452.  Let  it 
remain  entire,  or,  if  desired,  chop  it  coarsely  and  put  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and,  when 
it  is  thoroughly  warmed,  serve  it  plain,  or  garnish  it  with  slices  of 
boiled  bacon. 

SPINACH,    AMERICAN  STYLE. 

No.  1454. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Spinach  as  in  No.  1452;  then 
chop  it  finely  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg;  stir  it  well  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  and  when  it  is  thoroughly  warmed,  add  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  veal  gravy.  Then  serve  it,  having  the  dish  garnished  with 
Jiard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  quarters,  or  small  pieces  of  buttered  toast 
cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

SPINACH  WITH   GRAVY,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  1455. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Spinach  as  in   No.   1452,  and 

chop  it  finely.     Then  put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and, 

when  it  is  melted,  add  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  flour  and  let  it  cook  to  a 

light-brown.  Then  add  three  large  handfuls  of  the  chopped  Spinach, 

22 


338  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

stir  it  in  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  some  veal  broth,, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Before  serv- 
ing add  a  piece  of  butter  and  garnish  the  dish  with  poached  eggs, 
or  small  pieces  of  toasted  bread. 

SPINACH   WITH   MILK,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1456. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Spinach  as  in  No.  1445,  using 
boiled  milk  instead  of  meat  gravy. 

SPINACH  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE. 

No.  1457. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Spinach  as  in  No.  1445,  then 
press  out  all  of  the  water  and  chop  it  finely.  Put  four  ounces 
of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  is  lightly  browned  add  three 
handfuls  of  the  chopped  Spinach.  Stir  it  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  while  adding  a  cup  of  cream,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  nutmeg.  (Two  spoonfuls  of  Cream  or  Allemande  sauce  may  also 
be  added,  if  desired.)  Serve  with  hard  boiled  eggs,  cut  in  halves, 
and  arranged  around  the  dish. 

SPINACH,    PIEMONTAISE. 

No.  1458. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Spinach  as  in  No.  1452,  and 
chop  it  finely.  Then  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  when 
it  is  melted  add  a  little  finely  chopped  garlic,  and  shortly  after,  add 
three  handfuls  of  the  chopped  Spinach  and  a  spoonful  of  Anchovy 
paste.  Mix  them  well  together,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
add  two  spoonfuls  of  light  Espagnole  sauce.  Before  serving 
garnish  the  dish  with  poached  eggs,  or  small  pieces  of  toasted  bread. 

SPINACH   FOR  GARNITURES. 

No.  1459. — Spinach  prepared  as  in  No.  1453,  is  used  as  a  garni- 
ture for  boiled  bacon,  pigs'  jowl,  or  any  large  joints  when  Spinach 
is  served  with  them . 

Spinach  prepared  as  in  Nos.  1455,  1456  and  1457,  is  served  as  a 
garniture  for  braised  meats,  entrees,  or  any  kind  of  broiled  or  fried 
meat,  especially  veal  and  lamb. 

SPINACH  FRITTERS   (SUBRICS). 

Na.  1460. — Chop  one  quart  of  boiled  Spinach  finely  and  put  it 
in  a  flat  saucepan  with  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream  or  Allemande  sauce. 
Reduce  it  on  a  brisk  fire  and  then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  339 

Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  add  a  small  piece  of 
butter  and  the  yolks  of  eight  raw  eggs.  Mix  the  whole  well  to- 
gether and  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Then  put  some  clarified  butter 
in  a  frying  pan,  and  drop  the  Spinach  into  it,  one  spoonful  at  a 
time,  and  manage  it  so  that  they  will  not  touch  each  other.  Fry 
them  nicely  on  both  sides ;  then  serve  them  on  a  napkin  and  garnish 
with  fried  parsley. 

GEEEN   COLOR   OF   SPINACH. 

No.  1461. — Pick,  wash  and  drain  five  large  handfuls  of  Spinach. 
Then  put  it  in  a  mortar,  pound  it  finely  and  add  six  glassfuls  of 
cold  water.  After  this,  strain  it  through  a  towel,  pressing  it  well 
to  extract  all  of  the  moisture.  Then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire,  and  just  before  it  boils,  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  keeping 
it  at  the  boiling  heat,  but  not  allowing  it  to  boil.  Then  drain 
it  in  a  fine  hair  sieve.  That  which  remains  in  the  sieve  is  used  for 
coloring. 

Another  way  of  making  the  green  color  is  as  follows  :  Throw 
three  handfuls  of  Spinach  in  some  boiling  water,  with  a  little  pars- 
ley and  chives.  Let  it  remain  there-  one  minute;  then  immerse  it 
in  cold  water,  drain  it,  and  press  it  dry.  Then  put  it  in  a  mortar, 
pound  it  finely,  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  After  this  moisten 
it  with  a  little  cold  white  broth. 

CREAM  OF   SPINACH. 

No.  1462. — Put  four  soup-spoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  cooked 
Spinach  and  one  dozen  sweet  almonds  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  them 
into  a  fine  paste.  Then  add  four  macaroons  made  with  bitter 
almonds,  and  sweeten  with  sugar  to  taste.  Pound  the  whole  well, 
and  then  add  a  quart  of  cream  and  the  yolks  of  ten  raw  eggs.  Mix 
them  well  together  and  strain  the  mixture  through  a  sieve.  Put  it 
in  a  small  mould  and  cook  it  the  same  as  a  custard. 


CCV. 


French  SQUASH.  German 

Courge.  Kuerbis. 

No.  1463. — The  Squash  is  one  of  the  most  nutritious  and  valuable 
of  all  garden  vegetables.     The  summer  varieties  appear  early,  and 


340  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

are  very  palatable,  while  the  winter  sorts  can  be  had  in  perfection 
in  August.  All  of  the  varieties  are  tender  annuals  and  thrive  best 
in  a  warm  temperature. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1464. — Plant  them  in  warm  weather,  and  cultivate  them 
generally  as  you  would  cucumbers  or  melons,  being  particular  about 
the  soil.  The  summer  varieties  should  be  planted  six  feet  apart 
€ach  way,  and  the  winter  varieties  at  a  distance  of  eight  feet.  Three 
plants  are  sufficient  for  one  hill.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to 
injure  or  break  the  stems  of  those  intended  for  winter  use,  as  the 
slightest  injury  increases  their  liability  to  decay. 

t 

SUMMER  VARIETIES. 

APPLE   SQUASH. 

No.  1465. — This  variety  is  healthy  and  vigorous,  but  not  stocky. 
The  skin  is  thin,  tender  and  yellowish-white  in  color  when  young. 
It  is  hard  and  shell-like  when  ripe.  When  green  and  small,  the 
flesh  is  dry  and  well  flavored. 

CROOKED  NECK  SUMMER  BUSH  SQUASH. 

No.  1466. — This  is  a  dwarf  variety  about  two  and  a  half  feet 
high.  The  fruit  is  largest  at  the  blossom  end  and  tapers  gradually 
to  the  neck,  which  is  solid  and  more  or  less  curved.  The  skin  is 
tender,  warty  and  easily  broken.  When  young,  the  flesh  is  of  a 
greenish-yellow  color,  dry  and  well  flavored.  It  is  one  of  the  finest 
summer  varieties,  but  is  used  only  when  young  and  tender  and  when 
the  skin  can  be  pierced  easily.  When  the  skin  hardens  the  flesh 
becomes  watery,  strongly  flavored  and  unfit  for  table  use. 

EARLY  YELLOW  SCALLOPED  BUSH  SQUASH. 

No.  1467. — This  is  an  erect,  dwarf  variety.  The  fruit  is  hemi- 
spherical in  form,  and  expanded  at  the  edge,  which  is  deeply  and 
regularly  scalloped.  It  is  yellow  in  color,  and  the  skin,  while 
young,  is  thin  and  easily  pierced.  When  it  matures  the  skin  is 
hard  and  shell-like.  The  flesh  is  pale-yellow  in  color,  finely 
grained  and  well  flavored.  It  is  not  as  dry  as  the  summer  crooked 
neck  variety. 

EGG  SQUASH. 

No.  1468. — This  is  an  ornamental  variety  and  is  generally  culti- 
vated for  its  peculiar  egg-like  fruit,  being  seldom  used  for  the  table. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  341 

GKEEN  STRIPED  BERGEN  SQUASH. 

No.  1469. — This  variety,  which  is  largely  cultivated  in  the 
Eastern  States,  is  early,  but  not  very  productive.  It  is  eaten  either 
when  green  or  when  fully  ripe.  It  is  a  small  and  vigorous  plant, 
with  bell-shaped  fruit  of  a  dark  green  color,  striped  with  white. 

LARGE  WARTED,  CROOKED  NECK  SUMMER  SQUASH. 

No.  1470. — It  is  similar  to  the  dwarf  variety  but  much  larger  in 
size.  The  skin  is  of  a  clear,  bright  yellow  color,  with  wart-like 
excrescences  over  the  surface.  The  flesh  is  of  a  greenish-yellow 
color  and  is  coarse  in  texture.  It  is  hardy  and  productive. 

ORANGE  SQUASH. 

No.  1471. — This  variety  is  cultivated  more  as  an  ornament  than 
for  table  use.  The  fruit  is  of  the  size,  form  and  color  of  an  orange. 

AUTUMN  AND  WINTER  VARIETIES. 

AUTUMNAL   MARROW  SQUASH. 

No.  1472. — The  fruit  is  pointed  at  the  extremities,  and  the  stem 
is  large  and  fleshy.  The  skin  is  thin  and  easily  bruised  or  broken, 
having  a  creamy-yellow  color  when  first  ripened,  which  changes  to 
red  when  the  fruit  remains  on  the  plants  after  maturity.  The  flesh 
is  of  a  salmon-yellow  color,  being  dry,  finely  grained,  sweet  and 
excellent  in  flavor.  If  kept  free  from  cold  and  dampness  they  may 
be  preserved  until  March. 

BUSH   OR  DWARF   VEGETABLE,    MARROW   SQUASH. 

No.  1473. — This  is  a  small,  early,  hardy  and  productive  variety. 
It  will  keep  through  the  winter,  but  is  not  particularly  excellent 
for  table  use.  It  is  a  good  Squash  for  pie. 

CANADA  CROOKED  NECK  SQUASH. 

No.  1474. — This  variety  is  the  smallest  and  best  of  its  class,  and 
will  keep  well  all  of  the  year.  The  skin  is  of  moderate  thickness, 
and  of  a  creamy-yellow  color  when  ripe,  becoming  darker,  how- 
ever, after  maturity.  The  flesh  is  of  a  salmon-red  color,  closely 
grained,  sweet  and  finely  flavored. 


342  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CASHAW. 

No.  1475. — There  are  two  kinds  of  this  variety.  The  first  is  nearly 
round  and  the  other  somewhat  curved.  The  latter  is  the  most 
desirable. 

COCOA-NUT   SQUASH. 

No.  1476. — The  fruit  is  oval,  almost  twenty  inches  long  and  ten 
inches  in  diameter.  The  thin  skin  is  of  an  ashy-gray  color,  spotted 
with  light  drab.  The  flesh,  which  is  of  a  deep  orange-yellow  color, 
is  of  medium  thickness.  The  quality  varies.  Sometimes  the  flesh 
is  finely  grained,  dry,  sweet  and  of  a  rich. nut-like  flavor,  but  often 
some  that  are  well  matured  are  coarse,  fibrous,  watery  and  unfit  for 
the  table. 

CUSTARD   SQUASH. 

No.  1477. — The  fruit  is  oblong,  and  gathered  in  deep  folds  near 
the  stem,  having  a  creamy-white  skin.  The  flesh  is  pale-yellow  in 
color,  but  not  particularly  fine  in  texture,  having,  however,  a  good 
flavor. 

EGG  SHAPED   SQUASH. 

No.  1478. — The  fruit  is  large,  with  a  reddish  skin.  The  flesh  is 
red,  firm,  and  excellent  in  flavor,  being  a  good  table  Squash. 

HONOLULU  SQUASH. 

No.  1479. — This  variety  has  thick  flesh,  of  a  reddish-orange  color, 
and  good  flavor.  It  keeps  well,  and  is  excellent  for  pies  and  table 
use. 

HUBBARD   SQUASH. 

No.  1480. — The  flesh  is  thick,  finely  grained,  sweet,  dry  and  of 
excellent  flavor,  which  resembles  that  of  roasted  or  boiled  chestnuts. 

MAMMOTH   SQUASH. 

No.  1481. — This  is  the  largest  fruited  variety  known,  weighing 
from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  pounds,  if  grown  under  favorable 
conditions.  The  fruit  is  round,  and  sometimes  a  little  flattened  on 
the  under  side.  It  is  used  only  when  full  grown,  but  will  keep 
through  the  winter,  if  kept  in  a  warm  situation.  The  flesh  is  sweet, 
though  generally  coarsely  grained  and  deep  yellow  in  color.  It  is 
used  for  pies  and  soups. 

TURBAN   SQUASH. 

No.  1482. — This  is  classed  as  one  of  the  best  varieties,  although 
its  keeping  qualities  are  not  good.  It  is  fit  for  use  early  in  autumn. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  343 

VEGETABLE   MAKEOW   SQUASH. 

No.  1483.  —  The  skin  is  hard,  and  of  a  pale  yellow  color  when  per- 
fectly ripe.  The  flesh  is  white,  tender  and  succulent,  even  until  the 
seeds  are  ripe,  and  may  be  used  in  any  stage  of  its  growth.  It  will 
keep  through  the  winter,  when  perfectly  ripe,  if  stored  in  a  dry 
place  out  of  the  reach  of  frost. 

WILDER   SQUASH. 

No.  1484.  —  This  kind  is  superior  to  many  of  the  other  varieties 
for  pies  and  culinary  purposes. 

WINTER   CROOKED-NECK  SQUASH. 

No.  1485.  —  This  is  a  hardy  productive  variety,  that  ripens  with 
great  certainty,  and  suffers  less  from  insects  than  the  other  sorts. 
It  keeps  well. 

WINTER,    STRIPED,    CROOKED-NECK  SQUASH. 

No.  1486.  —  This  variety  is  hardy,  prolific  and  large,  and  keeps 


YOKOHAMA   SQUASH. 

No.  1487.  —  A  roundish,  somewhat  flattened,  Japanese  variety, 
strongly  ribbed.  The  skin  is  warted,  and  deep  green  in  color  when 
young,  changing  to  a  dull  yellow.  The  flesh  is  of  an  orange-yellow 
color,  finely  grained,  dry  and  sweet. 

MASHED   SQUASH. 

No.  1488.  —  Peel  the  Squash,  cut  it  in  scallops,  and  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  containing  sufficient  water  to  cover  them.  Add  a  little 
salt,  cover  the  pan,  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  boil.  When  they 
are  cooked,  drain  them,  and  then  rub  them  through  a  colander. 
Then  put  them  back  in  the  saucepan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  mix  them  well  and  let  them  get  thoroughly 
warmed.  The  Squash  may  also  be  steamed  the  same  as  potatoes. 

NOTE.  —  All  varieties  of  Squash  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

STUFFED  SQUASH,  ROMAN  STYLE. 

No.  1489.  —  Select  two  dozen  small,  young,  and  tender  Squash. 
Cut  off  the  top  of  each  and  scoop  out  the  center,  leaving  the  shell 


344  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

half  an  inch  stick.     Parboil  them  for  three  minutes,  then  drain 
them  on  a  napkin  with  the  open  side  at  the  bottom. 

Now  chop  two  white  onions  finely,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
small  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  lightly.  Cut  the  Squash  that 
was  scooped  out  in  small  pieces,  put  them  in  the  saucepan  with  a 
little  broth,  and  let  them  cook  until  the  broth  is  reduced  to  a  glaze. 
Then  add  one  quarterof  a  pound  of  roast  lamb  cut  in  small  pieces, 
one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  that  has  been  cooked  in  broth,  and 
a  little  finely  chopped  parsley.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
add  four  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Espagnole  sauce.  Mix  the  whole  well 
together  over  the  fire.  Fill  the  Squash  with  this  stuffing,  put  them 
in  a  flat  saucepan  lined  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  and  moisten 
them  with  broth.  Set  them  in  the  oven  to  cook  slowly  and,  when 
nicely  browned,  dish  them  up.  Pour  a  teaspoonful  of  reduced 
plain  Tomato  sauce  over  each  Squash  and  serve  separately  a  bowl 
of  Tomato  sauce. 

STUFFED  SQUASH,  STANFORD  STYLE. 

No.  1490. — Prepare  the  Squash  as  in  No.  1489.  Chop  two  large 
onions  finely,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  or 
sweet  oil  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  the  Squash  and,  when 
the  moisture  is  reduced,  add  two  handfuls  of  fresh  bread  crumbs. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  add  a  little  finely  chopped 
parsley  and  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs  and  mix  the  whole  well  to- 
gether. Stuff  the  Squash  with  this  preparation,  sprinkle  bread 
crumbs  over  them  and  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  top  of  each  one. 
Put  them  in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  bake  them  slowly  in  the  oven 
until  nicely  browned,  and  serve  them  with  a  reduced  Madeira  wine 
sauce. 

FRIED   STUFFED   SQUASH,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1491. — Prepare,  stuff  and  bake  the  Squash  as  in  No.  1490. 
Then  let  them  get  cold.  Now  peel  them  and  cut  them  in  halves. 
Roll  them  in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread 
them  again.  Then  fry  them  in  hot  lard  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin 
with  a  brown  Italian  sauce  separate. 

FRIED   SQUASH,    BOSTON   STYLE. 

No.  1492. — Peel  half  a  dozen  Squash,  cut  them  in  scallops  half 
an  inch  thick,  throw  them  into  boiling  water  for  three  minutes,  and 
then  drain  them.  Put  them  into  an  earthen  bowl,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them  remain  there  for  one  hour,  tossing 
them  over  occasionally.  Then  dry  them  on  a  napkin,  roll  them  in 
flour,  fry  them  in  hot  lard,  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  345 

SQUASH,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1493. — Peel  one  dozen  Squash,  cut  them  in  quarters,  trim 
them,  and  parboil  them  for  three  minutes.  Then  drain  them  dry, 
arrange  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  lined  with  thin  slices  of  fat 
pork,  and  moisten  them  with  broth  to  cover.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  sprig  of  thyme 
and  one  bay  leaf,  and  cook  them  on  a  brisk  fire.  When  the  broth 
is  reduced  to  one-quarter,  the  Squash  will  be  cooked.  Then  take 
them  out,  strain  the  broth  into  another  saucepan,  skim  off  the 
grease,  and  add  two  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Espagnole  sauce.  Then 
add  the  Squash  with  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

SCALLOPED   SQUASH,  ASTOB   STYLE. 

No.  1494. — Peel  half  a  dozen  small,  young  and  tender  Squash. 
Cut  them  in  quarters,  trim  the  edges,  and  parboil  them  for  three 
minutes.  Then  drain  and  dry  them,  and  put  them  into  a  flat  sauce- 
pan with  some  clarified  butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until  nicely  glazed. 
Dish  them  up,  and  add  to  the  gravy  in  the  saucepan  a  small  piece 
of  butter,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  some  finely-chopped 
parsley.  Stir  it  well,  off  of  the  fire,  until  the  butter  is  melted ;  then 
pour  it  over  the  scallops,  and  serve  them  hot. 


ARTICLES  CCVI. 


STRAWBERRY  TOMATO,  OR  ALKEKENGI. 

French  German 

To-male  (/raise.}  Lieberapfel  Erdbeere. 

No.  1495. — This  is  a  hardy  annual  plant  common  to  the  Southern 
States.  They  are  prolific  and  will  thrive  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil. 
The  fruit  has  a  juicy  pulp,  and  when  first  tasted  has  a  pleasant, 
strawberry-like  flavor  with  a  certain  degree  of  sweetness  and 
acidity  combined.  The  after  taste,  however,  is  much  less  agreea- 
ble, being  similar  to  that  of  the  common  Tomato.  The  fruit  is 
served  raw  with  the  addition  of  lemon  juice,  and  is  also  preserved 
like  plums  and  stewed  and  served  like  cranberries.  Sow  and 
cultivate  them  the  same  as  the  common  Tomatoes. 


346  HAEDEB'S  AMEEICAN  COOKERY. 

PURPLE  ALKEKENGI. 

No.  1496. — The  fruit  is  roundish  and  of  a  deep  purple  color, 
being  more  acidulous,  less  perfumed,  and  not  as  palatable.  In  its 
raw  state  it  is  a  superior  variety  for  preserving. 

SCARLET  ALKEKENGI. 

No.  1497. — The  fruit  is  of  a  brilliant  scarlet  color  at  maturity. 
The  plant  is  highly  ornamental.     The   Fall  and  Common  Yellow 
Alkekengi  are  similar  to  it,  except  in  color. 


CCVII. 


French  SWEET    POTATOES.  German 

Palate.  B  .taten. 

No.  1498. — The  Sweet  Potato  is  a  native  of  the  East  and  West 
Indies,  where  it  grows  natural  as  a  perennial  plant,  but  when  culti- 
vated it  is  always  treated  as  an  annual.  They  thrive  well  in  the 
Southern  States,  but  those  grown  in  the  North  are  much  inferior,  as 
the  plants  seldom  blossom  and  the  tubers  never  ripen  perfectly. 
Though  numerous  varieties  are  cultivated,  none  can  compare  with 
those  grown  in  the  South. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1499. — The  Sweet  Potato  is  cultivated  much  in  the  same 
manner  as  our  common  potato,  and  succeeds  best  in  light  warm  soil, 
which  should  be  deeply  stirred  and  well  enriched.  The  slips  or 
sprouts  are  planted  twelve  inches  apart  in  ridges  that  are  four  feet 
wide.  Give  the  plants  ordinary  culture  in  the  summer,  and  early 
in  October  the  tubers  will  have  attained  their  growth  and  will  be 
ready  for  harvesting.  The  slips  or  sprouts  are  generally  obtained 
by  setting  the  tubers  in  a  hot-bed  in  March  and  breaking  off  the 
sprouts  from  them  when  they  are  five  inches  high.  For  transplant- 
ing in  a  favorable  season  the  plucking  may  be  repeated  about  four 
times.  In  setting  out  the  slips  the  lower  part  should  be  sunk  one- 
half  of  their  depth,  and  when  dry  weather  occurs  water  should  be 
applied  moderately.  Dryness  and  a  warm  and  even  temperature  are 
essential  for  the  preservation  of  Sweet  Potatoes,  for  if  these  condi- 
tions are  not  supplied  the  tubers  will  decay  rapidly.  T'hey  may  be 
preserved  until  spring  by  packing  them  in  dry  sand  and  storing 
them  in  a  warm  dry  room. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  347 

NANSEMOND. 

Xo.  1500. — This  is  an  early  variety  that  matures  in  short  seasons. 
It  is  very  productive  and  succeeds  well  in  almost  any  tillable  soil. 
It  does  particularly  well  in  the  Northern  States.  The  tubers  are 
large,  yellow,  dry,  unctuous,  sweet,  and  well  flavored. 

LAEGE   WHITE. 

No.  1501. — This  variety  requires  a  long  season  for  its  full  devel- 
opment, and  will  succeed  well  in  the  Middle  States.  ^Ijhe  tubers 
are  large,  the  skin  of  a  dusky  white  color,  and  the  flesh  is  nearly 
white,  with  a  shade  of  yellow,  being  farinaceous  and  well  flavored, 
but  not  finely  grained. 

KENTUCKY  EARLY  RED. 

No.  1502. — The  tubers  are  of  medium  size,  with  a  red  or  purplish- 
red  skin,  the  flesh  being  yellow,  dry,  sweet  and  of  good  quality. 

PURPLE   SKINNED. 

No.  1503. — The  skin  is  smooth  and  of  a  reddish-purple  color,  and 
the  flesh  is  finely  grained,  sugary  and  of  excellent  quality.  This 
variety  is  early  and  does  not  keep  well. 

AMERICAN  RED. 

No.  1504. — The  tubers  are  long,  slender,  and  of  a  purplish-red 
color.  The  flesh  is  yellow,  finely- grained,  unctuous,  sugary  and 
farinaceous.  It  is  hardy,  and  an  abundant  bearer,  but  does  not 
keep  well. 

ROSE-COLORED. 

No.  1505. — This  variety  is  hardy,  productive,  and  keeps  well. 
The  tubers  are  large,  egg-shaped,  and  often  grooved  or  furrowed. 
The  skin  is  of  a  rose  color,  shaded  with  yellow,  while  the  flesh  is 
sweet,  and  has  a  pleasant  nut-like  flavor. 

YELLOW  SKINNED,  OR  YELLOW  CAROLINA. 

No.  1506. — This  is  a  favorite  variety  in  North  and  South  Caro- 
lina. The  tubers  are  from  six  to  ten  inches  long,  smooth,  and  of  a 
yellowish  color.  The  flesh  is  yellow,  finely  grained,  and  very 
sugary. 


348  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 


BAKED   SWEET   POTATOES. 

No.  1507. — Wash  the  Potatoes  in  cold  water,  and  dry  them.  Then 
put  them  in  the  oven,  turning  them  occasionally  to  have  them 
cooked  evenly,  and,  when  done,  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

NOTE. — In  the  Southern  States  they  are  served  in  cups  that  are  similar  to  egg  cups.  Cut  off  the 
top  end,  scoop  out  a  teaspoonful  of  the  Potato,  and  put  in  its  place  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

BOILED   SWEET   POTATOES. 

No.  1508.- — Sweet  Potatoes  are  boiled  or  steamed  in  the  same 
manner  as  common  potatoes.  When  cold  they  are  peeled,  sliced 
and  fried  in  butter. 

FRIED   SWEET   POTATOES. 

No.  1509. — When  raw,  the  Sweet  Potatoes  are  fried  in  the  same 
manner  as  common  potatoes.  When  they  have  been  boiled,  the 
large  Potatoes  should  be  sliced  lengthwise,  and  the  small  ones  left 
entire,  before  being  fried. 

FRIED   SWEET   POTATOES,  PUFFED    (SOUFFLE). 

No.  1510. — Peel  some  medium-sized  Sweet  Potatoes,  and  slice 
them  lengthwise  in  pieces  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Fry  them 
in  lard  that  is  not  too  hot,  and  when  soft,  drain  them.  Then  let  the 
lard  get  hot  again,  after  which  throw  the  Potatoes  in,  turning  them 
with  the  skimmer  for  a  few  minutes.  When  they  get  puffed  and 
browned,  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

SWEET   POTATO   FRITTERS. 

No.  1511. — Peel  half  a  dozen  boiled  Sweet  Potatoes,  cut  off  both 
ends,  and  then  slice  them  in  pieces  half  an  inch  thick  and  one  inch 
wide.  Put  them  in  an  earthen  bowl,  moisten  them  with  a  wine- 
glassful  of  brandy,  add  the  peeling  of  one  lemon,  and  allow  them 
to  macerate  for  half  an  hour.  Then  drain  them,  dip  them  in 
a  batter,  fry  them  in  hot  lard  until  nicely  browned,  and  drain  them. 
Serve  them  on  a  napkin  and  sprinkle  powdered  sugar  over  them. 

CREAM   OF   SWEET   POTATOES,    FOR   PIES. 

No.  1512. — Boil  or  steam  one  dozen  Sweet  Potatoes.  When  they 
are  three-quarters  done,  put  them  on  a  pan  in  the  oven  to  bake. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  349 

When  they  are  cooked,  peel  them  and  pound  them  through 
a  colander.  Then  add  two  eggs  and  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs, 
six  ounces  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  half  a  pound  of 
macaroons  ground  into  crumbs.  Flavor  it  with  lemon  flavor,  or  one 
wine-glassful  of  rum,  and  sweeten  with  sugar.  Then  mix  the  whole 
well  together. 

CAEOLINA  CAKE,  WITH  SABAYON  SAUCE. 

No.  1513. — Prepare  two  dozen  Sweet  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1512,  and 
pound  them  through  a  fine  colander.  Have  a  cream  ready  made  of 
three  pints  of  milk  with  one  pound  of  corn-starch.  Add  it  to  the 
Potatoes,  mix  them  well  together  and,  when  cold,  add  half  a  pound 
of  citron  cut  in  small  square  pieces,  half  a  pound  of  stoned  raisins, 
one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants,  and  half  a  pint  of  rum.  While 
mixing  them  well  together,  add  in  slowly  four  raw  eggs  and  the 
yolks  of  one  dozen  raw  eggs,  and  sweeten  it  to  taste.  Now  prepare 
some  small  pudding  moulds,  butter  and  flour  them  and  fill  them 
with  the  above  preparation.  Put  the  moulds  in  a  pan  containing 
an  inch  of  water,  and  set  in  a  moderate  oven  to  bake.  Serve  them 
with  Sabayon  sauce. 

NOTE. — A  sqiiare  pan  with  an  inch  border  may  be  used  instead  of  the  moulds.  Butter  a  paper  on 
both  sides,  place  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan  and  also  butter  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Then  flour  it  and 
put  in  the  preparation,  cooking  it  the  same  as  above.  When  ready  for  use  turn  it  out  on  a  board, 
cut  in  pieces  and  serve  with  a  Saboyan  sauce.  When  the  Cake  is  cold,  it  can  be  cut  in  pieces  three 
inches  long  and  half  an  inch  thick,  which  should  be  dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then  rolled  in  bread 
crumbs  and  shaped  nicely.  Then  fry  them  in  hot  lard  and  serve  them  as  croquettes. 

CAKOLINA     FRITTERS,    NELLIE   GRANT  STYLE. 

No.  1514. — Prepare  the  Potatoes  as  in  No.  1513,  and  bake  the 
cake  in  a  square  pan.  When  it  is  cold,  cut  it  in  round  pieces  with 
a  round  cutter  about  the  size  of  half  a  dollar.  Then  dip  them  in  a 
batter  considerably  thinner  than  you  would  use  for  queen  frit- 
ters, and  made  of  the  same  ingredients.  Serve  them  with  a  Madeira 
wine  or  Hard  sauce. 

SWEET  POTATO  PUDDING. 

No.  1515. — Steam  half  a  dozen  medium  sized  Sweet  Potatoes,  and 
when  the}7  are  cooked  peel  them  and  pound  them  through  a  fine 
colander.  Add  four  ounces  of  butter,  sweeten  with  sugar  to  taste, 
flavor  with  lemon  flavor,  and  add  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  Mix 
them  well  together,  and  then  add  half  a  pound  of  mixed  fruit  cut  in 
small  pieces  and  cooked  in  a  syrup.  When  the  mixture  is  cold, 
add  the  whites  of  six  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  and  mix  it  gently. 
Then  put  the  mixture  in  small  pudding  moulds,  which  have  been 


350  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKER^ 

buttered  and  floured,  and  steam  them,  or  bake  them,  as  you  would 
Carolina  cake  in  No.  1513. 


SWEET    POTATOES,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1516. — Boil  one  dozen  Sweet  Potatoes  and,  when  they  are 
cold,  peel  them  and  then  cut  them  in  slices  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Put  some  clarified  butter  in  a  frying  pan  and,  when  it  is 
warm,  add  a  layer  of  potatoes  and  fry  them  on  both  sides.  Then 
drain  them  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin. 


CCVIII. 


SWISS  CHARD,  OR  SEA  KALE  BEET. 

French  German 

Garde  Poiree.  Yunge  Mangoldpflanze. 

No.  1517. — The  Swiss  Chard,  Silver  or  Sea  Kale  Beet,  is  a 
distinct  vegetable,  and  is  much  superior  to  the  common  beet  for 
greens.  If  sown  at  the  same  time,  it  will  be  fit  to  use  before  them. 
Later,  the  plants  form  broad,  flat,  beautiful  white  wax-like  stems 
to  the  leaves,  which  are  very  delicious.  For  preparation,  see  Sea 
Kale,  Nos.  1398,  1399,  1400  and  1401. 


ccix. 


TANSY. 

Tanaisie.  Wurmkraul. 

No.  15l8. — Tansy  is  a  hardy,  herbaceous,  perennial  plant.  The 
stem  is  about  three  feet  high.  The  leaves  are  finely  toothed  and 
divided  on  the  margin,  and  of  a  rich,  deep  green  color.  When  it 
is  cultivated  for  its  leaves,  the  flowering  shoots  should  be  cut  off  as 
they  make  their  appearance.  The  leaves  have  a  strong  aromatic 
odor  and  a  bitter  taste.  It  possesses  the  tonic  and  stomachic 
properties  common  to  bitter  herbs,  but  is  seldom  used  for  culinary 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OP   TASTE.  351 

purposes.  There  are  three  varieties.  The  curled  leaved  Tansy 
differs  from  the  common  variety  in  its  curled  or  frilled  leaves.  The 
large  leaved  variety  is  less  fragrant,  and  the  variegated-leaved 
variety  has  a  peculiar  color.  Tansy  is  propagated  by  dividing  the 
roots,  as  the  variegated  character  of  the  foliage  is  not  produced 
from  seeds. 


CCX. 


French  TAPIOCA,   OR   MANIOCA.  German 

Tapioca,  or  Manioca.  Tapioca. 

No.  1519. — Tapioca  is  a  coarsely  granular  substance  obtained  by 
heating,  and  thus  partly  changing  the  moistened  starch  obtained 
from  the  roots  of  the  Janiplia  manihot,  a  plant  which  is  a  native  of 
Brazil.  There  are  two  chief  varieties,  and  about  thirty  sub-varieties. 
The  root  of  the  sweet  cassavas  may  be  eaten  with  impunity;  that  of 
the  bitter,  which  is  the  most  extensively  cultivated,  abounds  in  an 
acrid,  milky  juice,  which  renders  it  highly  poisonous  if  eaten  in  the 
recent  state.  The  root  is  prepared  for  use  by  washing,  scraping 
and  grating  or  grinding  it  into  a  pulp,  which,  in  the  bitter  variety, 
is  submitted  to  pressure  so  as  to  separate  the  deleterious  juice. 
It  is  now  in  the  state  of  meal  or  powder,  which  is  made  into  bread, 
cakes  or  puddings.  As  the  poisonous  principle  is  volatile,  the  por- 
tion which  may  have  remained  in  the  meal  is  entirely  dissipated  by 
the  heat  employed  in  cooking.  Being  nutritious,  and  at  the  same 
time  easy  of  digestion,  and  destitute  of  irritating  properties,  Tapi- 
oca forms  an  excellent  diet  for  the  sick  and  convalescent.  It  is  pre- 
pared for  use  by  boiling  it  in  water,  and  is  used,  like  sago,  in  soups 
and  puddings.  A  factitious  Tapioca,  known  as  Pearl  Tapioca,  is 
made  from  potato  starch,  and  is  sometimes  sold  as  the  genuine 
article. 

NOTE. — The  Tapioca  obtained  from  grocers  in  the  United  States,  is  in  the  form  of  hard,  white, 
irregular,  rough  grains.  That  which  is  sold  under  the  name  of  Manioca,  is  smaller  and  finer,  being 
preferred  to  the  large  Tapioca. 

TAPIOCA   SOUP,  WITH  BEOTH   OB  CONSOMME. 

No.  1520. — Put  four  quarts  of  consomme  or  broth  in  a  saucepan, 
and  when  it  boils,  drop  in  it  eight  ounces  of  Tapioca  or  Manioca 
slowly  while  stirring  it.  Let  it  boil  up  once,  and  then  set  it  on  the 
side  of  the  fire  to  boil  slowly  until  cooked.  Then  skim  it  and  serve. 


352  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY 


ccxi. 


French  TARRAGON. 

Eslragon. 

No.  1521. — Tarragon  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant,  originally  from 
Siberia.  It  is  cultivated  for  its  young  shoots  and  leaves,  the  latter 
being  long-pointed,  smooth  and  aromatic.  Both  are  used  as  ingre- 
dients in  salads,  pickles,  soups,  etc. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1522. — Tarragon  is  propagated  annually  by  dividing  the 
roots.  Select  a  warm,  dry  situation  in  April,  and  set  the  shoots  in 
rows,  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  cover  them  with  three  inches  of  soil. 
It  is  sometimes  improved  by  cutting,  when  they  are  set  three  inches 
apart  in  moist  earth.  When  not  allowed  to  run  to  flower,  the 
plants  will  be  more  healthy,  and  of  finer  quality,  and  will  yield 
more  abundantly. 

TARRAGON  VINEGAR,  PLAIN. 

No.  1523. — This  is  made  by  an  infusion  of  the  leaves  in  wine 
vinegar,  and  is  greatly  esteemed  with  salads. 

TARRAGON  VINEGAR,  FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  1524. — Put  in  a  demijohn  two  gallons  of  wine  vinegar,  four 
green  bell-peppers  cut  in  quarters,  and  one  dozen  shallots.  Cork 
it  tightly  and  set  it  in  the  cellar  for  four  weeks.  Then  strain  it 
through  a  flannel,  put  it  in  bottles,  cork  them  tightly,  and  keep 
them  in  a  cool  place. 


CCXI  I. 


TEA. 

The,  Thee. 

No.  1525. — The  Tea  plant  is  a  Dative  of  China  and  Japan,  being 
cultivated  extensively  in  both  countries.  In  Japan  it  forms  hedge- 
rows around  the  rice  and  cornfields;  in  China,  whence  immense 
quantities  of  Tea  are  exported,  whole  fields  are  devoted  to  its 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  353 

culture.  It  is  propagated  from  seeds,  and  in  three  years  the  plant 
yields  leaves  for  collection,  and  in  six  years  attains  a  height  of  five 
or  six  feet.  After  the  leaves  are  gathered  they  are  dried  by  artifi- 
cial heat,  and  while  hot  are  rolled  in  the  palms  of  the  hands,  so  as 
to  be  brought  into  the  form  in  which  they  are  found  in  commerce. 
The  odor  of  the  Tea  leaves  themselves  is  very  slight,  and  it  is 
customary  to  mix  with  them  the  flowers  of  certain  aromatic  plants, 
as  those  of  the  orange,  jasmine,  rose,  etc.,  in  order  to  render 
them  pleasant  to  the  smell.  The  flowers  are  afterwards  separated 
by  sifting.  There'are  two  principal  varieties  —  the  green  and  the 
black — which  differ  considerably  in  flavor  and  strength.  By  chem- 
ical tests  it  has  been  ascertained  that  green  Tea  is  colored  by  sul- 
phate of  calcium  and  Prussian  blue.  Tea  is  astringent  and  gently 
excitant,  and  in  its  finer  varieties  exerts  a  decided  influence  over 
the  nervous  system,  producing  exhilaration  and  wakefulness.  When 
taken  moderately  it  is  perfectly  harmless,  but  in  large  quantities  it 
produces  nervousness,  dyspepsia,  and  excites  the  brain  and  stom- 
ach. Green  Tea  is  more  injurious  than  black  Tea,  and  should  not 
be  used  by  those  who  are  dyspeptic. 

TO   MAKE   TEA. 

No.  1526. — Tea  is  made  in  several  different  ways. 

The  Chinese,  who  are  supposed  to  know  something  about  it,  put 
a  few  Tea  leaves  in  a  cup,  then  pour  boiling  water  over  the  leaves, 
and  let  them  steep  for  a  few  minutes,  having  placed  a  saucer  over 
the  cup  to  keep  the  essence  from  evaporating.  The  liquid  is  then 
strained  into  another  cup,  previously  warmed  with  hot  water,  and 
is  ready  for  use.  They  use  neither  milk  nor  sugar,  claiming  that 
they  injure  the  delicate  aroma  of  the  Tea,  which  is  true. 

The  general  method  of  making  Tea  in  America  is  as  follows: 
Use  an  earthen  tea-pot  in  preference  to  one  of  metal.  Scald  the 
pot  well;  then  put  in  the  quantity  of  Tea  desired,  set  the  pot  on 
the  stove,  pour  over  the  Tea  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  and 
let  it  stand  ten  minutes  to  draw.  Keep  the  cover  on  the  pot,  and 
do  not  let  the  Tea  boil.  Then  pour  in  as  much  boiling  water  .as 
is  desired,  and  the  Tea  is  ready  for  use.  Do  not  pour  water  over 
Tea  unless  it  is  boiling  hot,  as  unboiled  water  will  not  extract  the 
flavor  from  the  Tea  leaves,  and  will  sp6il  the  Tea.  Never  let  Tea 
boil  after  it  is  made.  Use  the  tea-pot  only  for  making  Tea.  Use 
cold  cream  in  Tea. 

TEA,  RUSSIAN  STYLE. 

No.  1527. — An  agreeable  beverage  is  made  as  follows:   Peel  some 
fresh,  juicy  lemons,  and  slice  them  in  thin  pieces.     Put  one  piece 
23 


354  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

in  the  bottom  of  each,  cup,  sprinkle  it  with  white  sugar,  and  then 
pour  in  the  hot  Tea.  Sometimes  the  lemon  peel  is  not  removed, 
which  imparts  a  slightly  bitter  taste  to  the  Tea. 

ICED  TEA. 

No.  1528. — A  delicious  cold  beverage  for  summer  is  made  by 
making  some  mixed  Tea  (black  and  green),  putting  it  in  bottles,  and 
setting  them  on  the  ice  to  cool.  When  ready  to  serve,  pour  the 
Tea  in  goblets,  that  contain  some  cracked  ice,  and  sweeten  it  with 
sugar.  A  little  champagne  or  rum  may  be  added  to  each  glass,  if 
desired,  but  never  add  milk. 

AFTER-DINNER   TEA. 

No.  1529. — Tea  may  be  served  after  dinner  the  same  as  coffee. 
Serve  with  some  double  cream  or  brandy  or  rum,  whichever  may 
be  desired.  Sandwiches  or  small  cakes  usually  accompany  it. 

TEA   FOR  INVALIDS. 

No.  1530. — Put  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
in  a  bowl  and  mix  them  well  together.  Dilute  it  with  four  soup- 
spoonfuls  of  cold  milk,  then  add  a  cup  of  hot  Tea  slowly  while  stir- 
ring it  briskly.  Serve  immediately. 

TEA  CUSTARD,   IN   CUPS. 

No.  1531. — Make  a  cupful  of  the  best  strong  Tea  and  set  it  aside 
to  cool.  Then  put  the  yolks  of  twelve  raw  eggs  in  a  saucepan  and 
add  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar.  Mix  them  well  together  with 
a  wooden  spoon  and  then  dilute  it  with  the  cold  Tea.  Add  in  slowly 
one  quart  of  cooled  boiled  milk,  stirring  it  gently.  Then  strain  the 
mixture  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  it  in  custard  cups.  Set  the 
cups  in  a  flat  saucepan  containing  hot  water,  which  must  reach  up  to 
the  middle  of  the  cups.  Put  the  pan  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  as 
soon  as  the  custard  becomes  firm  take  it  out.  Cover  it  if  desired, 
while  cooking.  Do  not  let  the  water  boil,  or  the  custard  will  be  full 
of  little  holes,  instead  of  being  solid  throughout. 

NOTE.— Coffee  custard  may  be  made  in  the  same  way  by  using  a  cupful  of  strong,  black  coffee, 
instead  of  Tea. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  355 


ARTICLE  CCXIII. 


French  THYME.  German 

Thym.  Thymian. 

No.  1532. — There  are  two  species  of  Thyme  cultivated  for  culin- 
ary purposes:  the  Common  Garden,  and  the  Lemon  or  Evergreen 
Thyme,  both  of  which  are  hardy  perennial  plants,  having  a  shrubby 
character  and  a  comparatively  long  growth.  The  leaves  have  an 
agreeable,  aromatic  taste,  and  are  used  for  flavoring  soups,  stuffings 
and  sauces.  They  should  be  used  with  moderation,  as  too  much 
imparts  a  bitter  taste  to  the  substance. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1533. — They  are  propagated  from  seeds,  or  by  dividing  the 
roots;  but  the  finest  plants  are  produced  from  seeds.  Sow  them  in 
April,  in  shallow  drills  twelve  inches  apart.  They  should  be  thinned 
out  to  eight  inches  apart,  and  all  weeds  should  be  carefully  removed. 
They  maybe  cut  for  use  as  soon  as  they  have  made  sufficient  growth; 
but  for  drying,  the  stalks  are  gathered  as  they  come  into  flower. 

BROAD-LEAVED   THYME. 

No.  1534. — This  is  the  favorite  variety.  The  stem  is  shrubby,  of  a 
brownish  color,  and  much  branched.  The  leaves  are  small,  green 
above  and  whitish  beneath. 

NARROW-LEAVED   THYME. 

No.  1535. — The  leaves  are  long,  narrow  and  sharply  pointed. 

LEMON   THYME. 

No.  1536. — This  is  a  low  green  shrub,  with  a  somewhat  trailing 
stem.  It  is  distinguished  from  the  other  varieties  by  the  soft, 
pleasant,  lemon-like  odor  of  the  young  shoots  and  leaves. 


ARTICLE;  'CCXIV. 


TOMATO. 

Tomate.  Liebesapfel. 

No.  1537. — The  Tomato  is  a  half-hardy  annual  plant,  originally 
from  South  America.     It  is  very  extensively  used  in  the  United 


356  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

States,  being  served  on  the  table  the  entire  year  in  different  forms,, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  healthful  and  best  of  all  garden  vegetables. 
The  plant,  when  full  grown,  is  about  eight  feet  high,  with  a  branch- 
ing irregular  recumbent  stem  and  dense  foliage.  The  fruit  is  red, 
white  or  yellow,  and  is  exceedingly  variable  in  size  as  well  as  form. 
The  varieties  are  numerous,  few  of  them  appearing  to  be  distinct  or 
permanent.  Much  depends  on  the  cultivation  and  the  temperature 
of  the  soil. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1538. — The  Tomato  is  raised  from  seed  and  succeeds  best  in 
light  warm  and  not  over  rich  soil.  Success  depends  on  securing  a 
rapid,  vigorous,  unchecked  growth  during  the  early  part  of  the  sea- 
son. Sow  it  in  hot  beds  during  March,  or  from  six  to  eight  weeks 
before  they  can  be  set  out  of  doors.  When  the  plants  have  four 
leaves  transplant  them  into  shallow  boxes,  setting  them  five  inches 
apart.  Give  them  plenty  of  air  and  endeavor  to  secure  a  vigorous 
but  steady  and  healthful  growth,  so  that,  at  the  time  of  setting  them 
in  the  open  ground,  they  will  be  strong  and  stocky  and  about  as 
broad  as  they  are  high.  A  slight  check,  while  the  plants  are  young, 
will  materially  diminish  their  productiveness.  Set  them  out  of 
doors  as  soon  as  danger  from  severe  frost  is  over,  but  before  doing 
so  harden  off  the  plants  by  gradually  exposing  them  to  the  night 
air  and  by  the  withdrawal  of  water  until  the  wood  becomes  hard 
and  the  leaves  thick  and  of  a  dark  green  color.  Transplant  them 
carefully  and  cultivate  well  as  long  as  the  vines  will  permit.  The 
fruit  is  improved  in  quality  if  the  vines  are  tied  to  a  trellis  or  to 
stakes.  Sufficient  plants  for  the  garden  of  a  small  family  may  be 
started  with  little  trouble  by  sowing  a  few  seeds  about  the  middle 
of  March  in  a  garden  box  or  large  flower  pot  and  placing  it  in  a 
sunny  window  of  the  kitchen.  Transplant  them  in  the  open  ground 
as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit  and  the  plant  is  strong  enough. 

To  have  an  extra  large  and  beautiful  Tomato,  as  soon  as  a  cluster 
of  flowers  is  visible  top  the  stems  down  to  the  cluster,  so  that  the 
flowers  terminate  the  stem.  The  effect  is  that  the  sap  is  immedi- 
ately impelled  into  the  two  buds  next  below  the  cluster,  which  soon 
push  strongly  and  produce  another  cluster  of  flowers  each.  When 
these  are  visible  the  branch  on  which  they  belong  is  also  topped 
down  to  their  level,  and  this  is  done  five  times  successively.  By 
this  means  the  plants  become  stout  dwarf  bushes  about  eighteen 
inches  high.  In  order  to  prevent  their  falling  over,  sticks  or  strings 
are  stretched  horizontally  along  the  rows  so  as  to  keep  the  plants 
erect.  In  addition  to  this  all  laterals  whatsoever  are  nipped  off. 
In  this  way  the  ripe  sap  is  directed  into  the  fruit,  which  acquires  a 
beauty,  size  and  excellence  that  is  unattainable  by  other  means. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  357 

THE   CARDINAL. 

No.  1539. — In  color  it  is  remarkable,  coloring  right  up  to  the 
calyx;  and  every  specimen  is  of  one  color,  and  that  is  the  most 
brilliant  cardinal  red,  very  glossy,  and  looking,  when  ripe,  almost 
as  if  varnished.  The  flesh  appears  to  have  the  same  brilliant  color, 
being  but  very  little  lighter  in  shade.  They  make  the  handsomest 
sliced  Tomato,  and  have  no  green  core.  Its  type  is  perfect,  being 
uniformly  smooth  and  free  from  any  ridges.  It  is  as  early  as  any 
good  Tomato,  and  is  much  larger  in  size  than  the  average.  It  is 
exceedingly  solid  and  firm,  and  of  a  vigorous  growth,  and  compara- 
tively compact  in  habit,  with  strong  stalks,  which  bear  abundantly 
throughout  the  season. 

LIVINGSTON   FAVORITE. 

No.  15^0. — One  of  the  largest  and  most  perfect  shaped  varieties 
in  cultivation.  It  ripens  evenly  and  early,  and  keeps  its  size  to  the 
end  of  the  season.  It  is  very  prolific,  with  but  few  seeds  and  has 
solid  flesh. 

MAYFLOWER. 

No.  1541. — This  is  one  of  the  earliest  large  Tomatoes  grown.  Its 
shape  is  perfectly  globular,  slightly  flattened  and  smooth,  of  a 
.glossy  red  color,  and  ripens  evenly  and  well,  close  up  to  the  stem. 

PERFECTION. 

No.  1542. — It  is  as  early  as  the  Canadian  Victor;  is  almost  round 
in  shape,  perfectly  smooth,  very  firm,  and  of  the  best  quality,  bear- 
ing all  through  the  season  until  frost.  It  ripens  all  over  at  the 
same  time,  and  is  blood-red  in  color. 

/ 

ACME. 

No.  1543. — This  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  handsomest  varieties. 
'The  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  perfectly  smooth  and  regular  in  shape, 
very  firm,  and  a  great  bearer.  Its  color  is  quite  distinct,  being  crim- 
son with  a  pinkish  tinge. 

PARAGON. 

No.  1544. — Same  as  the  Acme  in  all  respects,  with  the  exception 
that  the  color  is  of  a  bright,  glossy  crimson,  entirely  free  from  the 
pinkish  tinge. 


358  HAEDEK'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

THE  TROPHY. 

No.  1545. — This,  when  well  grown  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the 
best  Tomatoes  in  cultivation.  It  is  unsurpassed  for  flavor,  pro- 
ductiveness and  every  other  desired  quality. 

CHAMPION  CLUSTER. 

No.  1546. — A  distinct  and  valuable  variety,  growing  in  clusters, 
from  ten  to  twenty  large  sized,  smooth  and  well  shaped  Tomatoes 
on  one  bunch.  They  are  very  smooth,  and  free  from  inequalities. 
The  color  is  a  rich  dark  crimson,  and  the  flesh  is  very  solid. 

APPLE-SHAPED. 

No.  1547. — The  fruit  is  somewhat  flattened,  inclining  towards  a 
globular  shape,  deepened  about  the  stem,  but  smooth  and  regular 
in  its  general  outline.  The  skin  is  of  a  deep  rich  crimson  color, 
and  the  flesh  a  bright  rose  color;  the  rind  being  thick  and  hard, 
and  not  readily  reduced  to  a  pulp  when  cooked.  It  is  early  and 
hardy,  keeps  well,  and  for  salad  is  much  esteemed. 

THE   CONQUEROR. 

No.  1548. — One  of  the  earliest  varieties,  with  fruit  of  a  good  size 
and  very  uniform  in  shape. 

BERMUDA. 

No.  1549. — Extensively  grown  in  the  Southern  States,  and  is  of 
little  value  or  merit  when  grown  in  the  North.  Its  color  is  rose-red, 
and  it  varies  considerable  in  size. 

FEJEE. 

No.  1550. — The  fruit  is  either  a  bright  red  or  pinkish  color,  very 
firm,  well  flavored,  and  is  a  good  late  Tomato. 

ARLINGTON. 

No.  1551. — This  is  one  of  the  earliest  varieties.  The  fruit  is  of 
a  good  size,  and  is  very  uniform  in  shape. 

GENERAL  GRANT. 

No.  1552. — This  is  of  a  superior  quality.  The  fruit  is  large  and 
ripens  rapidly  and  thoroughly. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OP  TASTE.  359 

FIG,  OB  BED  PEAB. 

No.  1553. — A  small  red  pear-shaped  species.  The  flesh  is  either 
pale-red  or  pink,  and  very  firm.  It  is  very  little  used  except  for 
preserving  and  for  making  Tomato  figs. 

YELLOW   PLUM. 

No.  1554. — A  beautiful  variety,  used  principally  for  pickling. 

BED   CHEBEY. 

No.  1555. — A  small  early  variety  of  the  size  and  shape  of  a  cherry, 
and  is  used  for  pickling. 

STEAWBEBEY,    OE    WINTEE    CHEEEY. 

No.  1556. — The  fruit  has  a  pleasant  strawberry-like  flavor,  and  is 
much  esteemed. 

GEEEN  GAGE. 

No.  1557. — Resembles  a  yellow  plum  in  shape  and  color,  and  is 
excellent  for  preserving. 

YELLOW   CHEBEY   TOMATO. 

No.  1558. — This  is  a  yellow  variety  of  the  Bed  Cherry  Tomato, 
differing  only  in  color. 

YELLOW  PEAE,    OB  FIG   SHAPED. 

No.  1559. — A  sub-variety  of  the  red  pear-shaped  Tomato,  with  a 
clear,  semi-transparent  yellow  skin  and  yellow  flesh.  It  is  used  for 
pickling  and  preserving. 

QUEEN. 

No.  1560. — A  variety  speedily  grown  for  canning.  The  fruit 
somewhat  resembles  the  Trophy  in  appearance. 

CANADA  VICTOE. 

No.  1561. — This  is  one  of  the  earliest,  of  a  medium  size,  and  is 
very  symmetrical  in  shape. 


360  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

HATHAWAY' s  EXCELSIOR. 

No.  15612. — This  is  an  early  Tomato,  medium  sized,  smooth,  firm, 
and  of  excellent  quality. 

GOLDEN  TROPHY. 

No.  1563. — Identical  in  form  and  size  with  the  Trophy,  but  its 
color  is  a  beautiful  canary-yellow,  being  sometimes  streaked  lightly 
with  red.  It  is  well  suited  for  preserving,  as  well  as  for  table  use. 

ISLAND   BEAUTY. 

No.  1564. — The  fruit  is  large  and  medium  early,  resembling  the 
Trophy  in  appearance,  and  is  produced  in  clusters  of  about  ten 
finely  formed  Tomatoes  in  a  bunch.  It  is  deep  crimson  in  color, 
and  of  the  best  quality. 

TOMATOES   FOR  RELISH. 

No.  1565. — Select  ripe  and  firm  Tomatoes  of  equal  size,  wipe 
them  clean  and  slice  them  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Serve  them 
on  relish  dishes  the  same  as  cucumbers,  with  some  finely  sliced 
green  onions  around  the  edge  of  the  dish.  Or  dip  them  into  boil- 
ing water  for  one  minute,  then  peel  and  slice  them,  sprinkle  them 
with  salt,  and  serve  them  plain  or  mixed  with  cucumbers,  with  some 
finely  sliced  green  peppers  on  each  end  of  the  dish.  Serve  with 
them  a  mustard  and  oil  sauce,  into  which  add  some  finely  chopped 
chives  and  parsley. 

TOMATO   SALAD,   PLAIN. 

No.  1566.— Peel  and  slice  the  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1565.  Season 
them  with  salt,  pepper,  olive  oil  and  vinegar,  and  garnish  with 
finely  sliced  celery. 

NOTE. — Baw  Tomatoes  may  be  used  to  garnish  green  salads. 

TOMATO   SALAD  WITH   CUCUMBERS. 

No.  1567. — Peel  and  slice  the  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1565,  and  season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  slice  the  same  quantity  of  cucum- 
bers, sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  set  them  aside  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  press  out  the  water,  and  put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  with  the 
Tomatoes.  Add  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley,  a  little  oil  and 
vinegar,  and  mix  the  whole  well  together  without  breaking  the 
Tomatoes. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  361 

The  Tomatoes  can  be  put  in  a  salad  bowl  with  the  cucumbers, 
and  a  light  Mayonnaise  sauce  poured  over  them,  with  a  little  mus- 
tard and  cream  added  to  the  sauce.  Garnish  with  the  hearts  of 
lettuce. 

TOMATO   SALAD,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1568. — Prepare  the  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1567,  add  some  sliced 
green  peppers,  and  season  highly. 

TOMATO   SALAD,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  1569. — Prepare  the  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1567,  add  some  sliced 
green  onions  and  a  little  anise  seed. 

TOMATO   SALAD,    HESKETH   STYLE. 

No.  1570. — Peel  the  Tomatoes  and  slice  them  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Put  a  layer  of  them  in  a  plate  or  dish  and  season  them  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Then  on  these  put  another  layer  and  season  as 
before.  Set  them  in  a  cool  place  for  half  an  hour  before  using,  in 
a  slanting  position,  and,  with  a  spoon,  gather  up  the  juice  occasion- 
ally and  pour  it  over  the  Tomatoes.  When  ready,  dress  them 
carefully  in  a  salad  bowl,  with  some  finely  chopped  parsley  over 
them.  Mash  the  yolk  of  a  hard  boiled  e<rg,  and  dilute  it  with  oil, 
vinegar  and  cream.  Season  it  with  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  this 
dressing  over  the  Tomatoes  when  serving  them. 

FRIED   TOMATOES. 

No.  1571. — Slice  the  Tomatoes  half  an  inch  thick  and  season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  sprinkle  them  with  flour,  and  fry 
them  in  clarified  butter.  Serve  them  with  fried  parsley  to  garnish. 

STEWED  TOMATOES. 

No.  1572. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  Tomatoes  and  peel  them. 
Then  cut  them  in  quarters,  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  set  it  on  the 
fire,  and  when  they  are  cooked  pound  them  through  a  colander  into 
a  saucepan,  and  set  them  on  the  fire  again.  When  they  boil  add 
some  fresh  bread  crumbs  to  thicken  them,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  little  sugar.  Let  them  simmer  for  twenty  minutes, 
and  before  serving  add  a  piece  of  butter. 


362  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

BAKED  STEWED  TOMATOES. 

No.  1573. — Prepare  them  as  in  No.  1572,  and  put  them  in  a  but- 
tered baking  dish.  Sprinkle  bread  crumbs  over  the  tops,  add  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven. 

HOW   TO  PREPARE  TOMATOES  FOR   STUFFING. 

No.  1574. — Take  Tomatoes  of  even  size  that  are  not  too  ripe. 
Slice  off  the  end  of  the  Tomato  that  adheres  to  the  stalk,  scoop  out 
the  centre  without  breaking  the  sides  and  set  them  in  a  pan  upside 
down,  so  as  to  drain  off  all  of  the  moisture.  Save  the  parts  scooped 
out  and  chop  them  finely,  adding  some  finely  chopped  peeled 
Tomatoes  with  them,  if  necessary,  and  also  to  the  stuffing  intended 
for  the  Tomatoes. 

STUFFED   TOMATOES,    PROVINCIAL   STYLE. 

No.  1575. — Prepare  two  dozen  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1574.  Chop 
half  a  dozen  shallots  finely  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter  or  a  little  sweet  oil,  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  half 
a  pound  of  finely  chopped  mushrooms  and  the  finely  chopped 
Tomatoes.  Let  them  cook  until  the  moisture  is  almost  reduced. 
Then  add  a  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs,  a  little  finely  chopped 
parsley  and  cooked  ham,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nut- 
meg. Mix  the  whole  well  together,  stirring  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon  for  five  minutes.  Then  add  the  yolks  of  three  raw  eggs, 
and  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Stuff  the  Tomatoes  with  this  prepara- 
tion and  sprinkle  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them.  Put  a  few  drops 
of  sweet  oil  on  each  one,  arrange  thorn  in  a  pan  and  put  them  in  the 
oven  to  bake.  Serve  them  with  a  brown  Italian  sauce. 

STUFFED   TOMATOES,    MACKAY   STYLE. 

No.  1576. — Prepare  two  dozen  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1574.  Then  chop 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  pork,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  veal,  and 
six  ounces  of  marrow  finely,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg, adding  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley,  chives,  garlic  and  tarragon. 
Mix  the  whole  well  together  anrl  stuff  the  Tomatoes  with  it.  Arrange 
them  in  a  buttered  flat  saucepan  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork  over 
each  one  and  bake  them  in  an  oven.  Before  serving  press  the  juice 
of  a  lemon  over  them  and  serve  them  with  a  half  glaze  or  a  plain 
reduced  puree  of  Tomatoes. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  363 

STUFFED   TOMATOES,    TUEKISH   STYLE. 

No.  1577. — Prepare  two  dozen  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1574.  Cook  a, 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  in  chicken  broth  dry.  Chop  an  onion 
finely  and  fry  it  lightly  in  butter.  Then  add  the  chopped  Tomatoes, 
and  when  the  moisture  is  reduced,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Tomato 
sauce  and  the  rice.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  add  a  little 
finely  chopped  chives  or  parsley.  Mix  the  whole  well  together  and 
stuff  the  Tomatoes  with  it.  Sprinkle  some  fresh  bread  crumbs 
over  them,  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  each  and  arrange  them  in  a  but- 
tered baking  pan.  Then  bake  them  in  an  oven  and  serve  Tomato- 
sauce  with  them. 

STUFFED   TOMATOES,    AMEEICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1578. — Prepare  two  dozen  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1574.  Chop  two- 
white  onions  finely  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  but-  • 
ter.  Fry  them  lightly  and  add  four  finely  chopped  Tomatoes  and 
the  flesh  that  was  scooped  out  of  the  Tomatoes  to  be  stuffed. 
When  the  moisture  is  nearly  reduced,  add  a  handful  of  finely 
chopped  fresh  mushrooms.  Cover  the  saucepan,  and  when  the 
moisture  is  reduced,  add  two  handfuls  of  fresh  bread  crumbs  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes 
and  add  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs  and  a  little  finely  chopped  pars- 
ley. When  it  is  well  mixed  put  it  on  a  plate  and  cover  it  with  a 
buttered  paper.  When  this  preparation  is  cold,  stuff  the  Tomatoes 
with  it,  sprinkle  some  fresh  bread  crumbs  over  them,  put  a  piece 
of  butter  on  each,  and  arrange  them  in  a  buttered  baking  pan. 
Then  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  and  serve  them  with  a  Tomato, 
sauce. 

STUFFED   TOMATOES,    CARDINAL   STYLE. 

No.  1579. — Prepare  two  dozen  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1574.  Chop 
half  a  dozen  shallots  finely  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  four 
ounces  of  butter.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  cook  on  a  slow 
fire  (not  letting  them  get  browned).  Then  add  the  finely  chopped 
Tomatoes  and  two  handfuls  of  finely  chopped  fresh  mushrooms. 
When  the  moisture  is  reduced,  add  six  spoonfuls  of  reduced  Alle- 
mande  sauce  and  a  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  When  it  is  well  mixed  add  the  yolks  of  three  raw 
eggs.  Stuff  the  Tomatoes  with  this  preparation,  sprinkle  them  with 
fresh  bread  crumbs,  arrange  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  and  put  a  few 
drops  of  sweet  oil  on  each.  Bake  them  in  a  quick  oven.  When 
they  are  browned  dish  them  up,  put  a  few  drops  of  glaze  on  each 
and  serve  with  a  puree  of  Tomatoes  around  the  dish. 


364:  HAEDEE'S  AMEEICAN  COOKEEY. 

BAKED  TOMATOES. 

No.  1580. — Cut  the  ends  off  of  half  a  dozen  Tomatoes,  and  slice 
them  in  halves.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  two  spoonfuls 
of  clarified  butter  in  a  frying  pan  and,  when  it  is  warm,  add  the 
Tomatoes,  and  fry  them  lightly  on  both  sides.  Sprinkle  them  with 
fresh  bread  crumbs  and  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley.  Then 
arrange  them  in  a  baking  dish,  sprinkle  bread  crumbs  and  parsley 
over  them,  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  top  of  each,  and  bake  them  in 
the  oven. 

NOTE.— Finely  chopped  garlic  or  shallots  may  be  added  with  the  parsley,  if  desired. 
TOMATOES   FOE   GAENITUEE. 

No.  1581. — Any  of  the  different  varieties  of  stuffed  Tomatoes  may 
be  used  as  a  garniture  for  large  entrees  or  releves;  and,  when  alter- 
nated with  green  peppers,  artichokes,  mushrooms  or  cauliflower, 
make  a  very  pretty  effect — caused  by  the  different  colors  of  the 
vegetables. 

PLAIN   TOMATO   SAUCE. 

No.  1582. — Select  four  dozen  nice  ripe  Tomatoes,  cut  them  in 
quarters,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  faggot  of  parsley 
.garnished  with  two  green  onions,  one  leek,  one  bay  leaf,  a  few 
cloves  and  some  pepper-corns.  Cover  the  saucepan,  and  cook  them 
on  a  brisk  fire  until  the  Tomatoes  are  thoroughly  done.  Then  take 
out  the  faggot,  and  rub  the  Tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the 
puree  in  a  fiat  saucepan,  reduce  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  the  proper  con- 
sistency, season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  before  serving,  add  a 
piece  of  butter.  This  sauce  is  much  admired  for  its  beautiful  red 
color  and  fine  flavor  when  served  with  broiled  meats. 

TOMATO   SAUCE. 

No.  1583.  — Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  to  which  add 
two  sliced  onions,  two  carrots,  and  half  a  pound  of  lean  raw  ham. 
Fry  them  until  nicely  browned;  then  add  four  dozen  ripe  Tomatoes 
(which  have  been  washed  and  cut  in  quarters),  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished  with  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  few  grains  of  pepper,  and  two 
bay  leaves,  and  season  with  salt.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them 
cook  slowly.  When  done,  thicken  them  with  flour  diluted  with 
cold  broth  to  the  proper  consistency.  Stir  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon  until  it  boils;  letting  it  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  after 
which  take  out  the  ham  and  faggot,  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  365 

PUEEE   OF   TOMATOES. 

No.  1584. — Prepare  the  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  15S3,  but  instead  of 
thickening  with  flour,  add  a  loaf  of  square  bread  (after  removing 
the  crust),  cut  in  slices,  and  let  it  cook  with  the  Tomatoes  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  Then  rub  the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve  and 
put  it  in  a  flat  saucepan.  Reduce  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  its  proper 
consistency  while  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon,  after  which  add 
a  piece  of  butter  and  a  pinch  of  sugar. 

SOUP — PUREE   OF   TOMATOES,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1585. — Prepare  the  Tomatoes  as  in  No.  1583,  and  when  they 
are  strained  add  one  quart  of  good  broth,  a  piece  of  butter  and  a 
pinch  of  sugar.  Serve  with  fried  bread  crumbs. 

SOUP— PUREE   OF  TOMATOES,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  1586. — Wash  and  trim  three  dozen  Tomatoes  and  cut  them 
in  quarters.  Put  in  a  saucepan  a  piece  of  butter,  two  finely  sliced 
carrots,  two  finely  sliced  onions  and  some  trimmings  of  lean  ham. 
Fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  four  spoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  it  with 
a  wooden  spoon  while  it  is  cooking  until  it  is  nicely  browned.  Then 
add  the  Tomatoes,  two  quarts  of  broth,  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished 
with  one  celery,  one  leek,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  bay  leaves,  and  a 
few  grains  of  pepper,  and  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  red  pep- 
per. Keep  stirring  until  it  boils,  then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire 
to  cook  slowly  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Then  take  out  the 
faggot,  strain  the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  it  back  in  the 
saucepan  to  keep  it  warm.  Before  serving  add  a  pinch  of  sugar 
and  four  ounces  of  butter.  Stir  it  well  until  the  butter  is  melted 
and  serve  with  fried  bread  crumbs. 

NOTE.— This  may  also  be  used  as  a  sauce. 

TOMATO   SOUP,    WITH   RICE. 

No.  1587. — Prepare  the  Tomatoes  as  in  Nos.  1583  or  1586.  Boil 
four  ounces  of  rice  in  broth  and  have  it  dry  when  it  is  boiled. 
Serve  it  with  the  Tomatoes  in  a  soup  tureen. 

TOMATO   SOUP,    FLORIDA  STYLE. 

i 

No.  1588. — Prepare  one  gallon  of  Tomato  soup  as  in  Nos.  1583  or 
1586.  Boil  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  sago  in  some  white  broth, 
and  when  it  is  cooked  put  it  in  the  soup.  Let  it  boil  for  a  few 
minutes  and  then  serve. 


366  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

TOMATO   CATSUP,  NO.    1. 

No.  1589. — Cut  four  dozen  ripe  Tomatoes  in  quarters  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  to  cook.  When  they  are  thoroughly  cooked 
rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  the  puree  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  pint  of  wine  vinegar,  one  ounce  of  ground  cloves,  allspice, 
cinnamon  and  ground  pepper,  and  a  little  salt,  and  reduce  it  to  its 
proper  consistency.  When  it  is  cold  put  it  in  bottles,  cork  them 
tightly,  and  then  boil  them  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  half  an  hour. 

TOMATO   CATSUP,    NO.    2. 

No.  1590. — Cut  six  dozen  ripe  Tomatoes  in  quarters,  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  and,  when  they  are  thoroughly  cooked,  rub  them  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Put  them  back  in  the  saucepan  and  add  one  ounce  of 
mustard  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace,  one  of  cloves,  one  of 
black  pepper,  a  little  salt,  a  pinch  of  Cayenne  pepper,  and  one  ounce 
of  celery  seed  tied  up  in  a  bag.  Let  it  boil  slowly  until  reduced  to 
one-third  of  its  original  quantity.  Then  add  one  pint  of  wine  vin- 
egar and  pour  it  into  an  earthen  jar.  When  cold  take  out  the  cel- 
ery seed,  bottle  the  catsup,  cork  them  tightly,  and  boil  them  in  a 
hot  water  bath  for  twenty  minutes. 

TOMATO   CATSUP,    NO.    3. 

No.  1591. — Peel  six  dozen  nice  ripe  Tomatoes,  cut  them  in  quar- 
ters, put  them  in  a  saucepan  and  add  four  finely  sliced  onions,  six 
sliced  bell  peppers,  two  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  an  ounce  of  cinna- 
mon, a  little  ginger,  salt  and  a  grated  nutmeg.  Moisten  with  two 
quarts  of  wine  vinegar,  and  when  the  Tomatoes  are  thoroughly 
cooked,  strain  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  catsup  in  bot- 
tles, cork  them  tightly  and  boil  them  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  twenty 
minutes. 

TOMATO    CATSUP,    EPICUREAN   STYLE. 

No.  1592. — Select  six  dozen  nice  ripe  Tomatoes,  cut  them  in 
halves,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  and  boil  them  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Then  drain  them  on  a  cloth,  which  you  place  in  a  colander.  When 
dry  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  this  puree  in  a  flat  sauce- 
pan, season  it  with  salt  and  red  pepper,  and  add  a  pint  of  Worces- 
tershire sauce  and  a  glassful  of  wine  vinegar.  Then  reduce  the 
catsup  to  its  proper  consistency,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  when 
cold  bottle  it.  Cork  them  tightly  and  boil  them  in  a  hot  water  bath 
for  twenty-five  minutes.  Keep  the  bottles  tightly  corked  at  all 
times. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  367 

TOMATOES,    YUM-YUM. 

No.  1593. — Wash  and  clean  six  dozen  green  Tomatoes,  slice  them 
finely  and  add  to  them  about  the  same  quantity  of  finely  sliced 
green  peppers.  Put  them  in  an  earthen  jar  with  one  pound  of  salt, 
mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  on  the  following  day  drain  off  the 
moisture  and  add  one  ounce  of  ground  allspice,  half  an  ounce  of 
cloves,  four  ounces  of  grated  horse-radish  and  six  ounces  of  mustard 
seed.  Mix  the  whole  well  together  and  pour  over  them  some  boiled 
wine  vinegar  to  cover.  Cover  the  jar  tightly  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place. 

PEESERVED   TOMATOES. 

No.  1594. — Use  only  ripe  Tomatoes,  wa,sh  them  in  cold  water  and 
trim  off  the  stems.  Pour  boiling  water  over  them,  peel  them,  cut 
them  in  quarters  and  lay  them  in  a  wooden  tub  until  all  are  finished. 
Then  put  them  in  a  quart  or  gallon  can,  solder  on  the  cover  and 
boil  it  in  a  hot  water  bath.  The  quarts  require  forty-five  minutes 
and  the  gallons  an  hour  and  a  half  to  boil. 

PKESEEVED  TOMATO   SAUCE. 

No.  1595. — Select  nice  red  ripe  Tomatoes,  trim  them,  wash  them 
in  cold  water,  cut  them  in  quarters  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  on 
a  brisk  fire.  Let  them  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Spread  a  cloth  over 
a  basket  or  strainer  and  put  the  Tomatoes  on  this  cloth  to  drain  for 
one  hour.  Then  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  the  sauce 
in  champagne  bottles.  Cork  them  tightly,  tie  the  corks  down  and 
boil  the  bottles  in  a  hot  water  bath  for  thirty  minutes.  All  pre- 
serves should  be  put  on  to  boil  with  cold  water.  When  bottles  are 
used  they  should  be  packed  in  straw,  and  when  boiled  let  them 
stand  until  the  water,  in  which  they  have  been  boiled,  is  cool  before 
removing  them.  When  ready  for  use  this  sauce  may  be  prepared 
the  same  as  fresh  Tomatoes,  and  for  this  purpose  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  thicken  the  sauce,  season  it  to  taste  and  strain  it  again. 

WHOLE   TOMATOES,    PKESEEVED   IN   SAUCE. 

No.  1596. — Select  small,  red,  ripe,  firm  Tomatoes,  dip  them  in  boil- 
ing water  and  peel  them.  Put  them  into  large-mouthed  bottles, 
without  injuring  the  Tomatoes,  and  do  not  have  the  bottles  too  full. 
Fill  the  bottles  with  sauce  made  as  in  No.  1595  to  cover.  Cork  the 
bottles  tightly  and  tie  the  corks  down.  Then  boil  them  in  a  hot 
water  bath  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Before  using  these  Toma- 
toes they  should  always  be  warmed  in  their  own  sauce. 


368  HARDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

TOMATO  FIGS  PRESERVED. 

No.  1597. — The'  Fig  or  Ked  Pear  Tomato,  as  described  in  No. 
1553,  is  one  of  the  very  best  varieties  for  preserving.  Dip  them  in 
boiling  water  and  peel  them,  being  careful  not  to  injure  them. 
Put  five  pounds  of  the  Tomatoes  in  an  earthen  jar  with  five  pounds 
of  crushed  cube  sugar,  then  cover  them  and  set  them  in  a  cool  dry 
place  for  two  or  three  days.  Then  drain  the  juice  into  a  copper 
basin,  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil,  skim  it  well  and,  when  clear  of  all 
the  scum,  let  the  syrup  cool  and  then  pour  it  over  the  Tomatoes. 
Repeat  this  operation  three  times  in  one  week.  After  this,  when 
the  weather  is  favorable,  take  the  Tomatoes  out  of  the  jar  and  place 
them  on  dishes  or  plates  in  the  sun  to  dry  for  about  six  or  seven 
days,  occasionally  turning  them  over,  and  when  they  are  dried  put 
them  in  boxes  lined  with  white  paper.  Sprinkle  some  powdered 
sugar  over  them,  then  put  another  layer  of  Tomatoes  (not  too  close 
together),  then  powdered  sugar  again,  then  Tomatoes,  and  continue 
this  until  the  box  is  full.  Cover  them  and  keep  them  in  a  dry 
place. 


CCXV. 


French  TONKA    BEAN.  German 

Tonka  (Feve).  Tonkabohm. 

No.  1598. — The  Tonka  Bean  is  the  seed  of  a  large  tree  that  grows 
in  Guiana,  Mexico  and  the  Southern  part  of  America.  The  seed  or 
bean  is  inclosed  in  an  oblong,  ovate  pod,  and  is  about  one  inch  long 
and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  wide.  It  has  a  dark  brown,  wrinkled, 
shining,  thin  and  brittle  skin,  and  a  light  brown  oily  kernel.  It 
has  a  strong,  agreeable  aromatic  odor  and  a  bitterish  taste.  It  is 
used  for  culinary  purposes  as  a  substitute  for  vanilla,  which  it  resem- 
bles in  flavor.  Tobacconists  use  it  largely  to  flavor  tobacco  and  to 
mix  with  snuff  when  ground  or  powdered. 


ARTICLE:  CCXVI. 


TRUFFLES. 

Truffles.  Truffle, 

No.  1599. — Truffles  are  a  species  of  fungi  that  are  subterranean 
in  their  habit  and  are  mostly  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  oak  and 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  369 

chestnut  trees,  but  do  not  thrive  well  in  thick  woods.  They  are 
found  from  two  inches  to  one  foot  below  the  soil.  They  have 
neither  roots  nor  stems,  and  vary  in  color  from  white  to  light  brown 
and  black.  They  are  somewhat  globular  in  form  and  vary  in  size. 
Their  surface  is  knotty  or  warty,  and  is  covered  with  a  skin  or  net- 
work which  resembles  veins.  When  they  have  attained  their  full 
growth  they  diffuse  an  agreeable  odor  which  is  quite  peculiar.  The 
flesh  is  solid  and  has  a  delicious  taste,  but  when  the  Truffles  are 
exposed  for  a  few  days  they  begin  to  decay  and  become  bitter  and 
disagreeable.  They  are  put  up  in  cans  and  bottles  and  can  be  ob- 
tained from  all  first-class  grocers.  But  when  canned  they  have  lit- 
tle of  the  fine  flavor  and  good  qualities  of  the  Truffle  in  its  fresh 
state.  They  are  used  principally  for  stuffing  turkeys,  capons, 
and  with  goose-liver  pates,  etc.  They  have  always  been  held 
in  high  esteem  by  epicures,  and,  owing  to  their  rarity,  have 
always  commanded  a  high  price.  French  Truffles  can  occa- 
sionally be  obtained  in  New  York  from  the  stewards  on  Atlantic 
steamers,  but  the  majority  of  those  used  in  the  United  States  are 
preserved,  and  the  best  brands  can  only  be  obtained  from  respon- 
sible importers.  The  district  of  Perigord  in  France  furnishes  the 
best  flavored  Truffles,  which  are  of  a  black  color.  In  the  other 
parts  of  France  they  are  grayish  in  color.  The  Italian  Truffles  from 
Piedmont  are  of  a  whitish  color  and  have  an  excellent  flavor.  Truf- 
fles have  not  yet  been  found  in  the  United  States,  although  tubers 
that  resemble  them  have  been  discovered  in  California,  but  it  has 
not  been  accurately  determined  whether  they  are  genuine  Truffles 
or  not.  The  following  recipes  are  for  canned  Truffles. 

TRUFFLES   (SERVED  WHOLE),    WITH  CHAMPAGNE   SAUCE. 

No.  1600.—  Open  a  can  of  Truffles  and  put  the  juice  of  the  Truffles 
in  a  small  saucepan.  Add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  few 
grains  of  pepper  and  two  cloves,  a  small  slice  of  lean  raw  ham  and 
a  large  glass  of  dry  champagne.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  set  it  on 
the  fire,  and  when  this  is  reduced  to  one-quarter  of  its  original 
quantity,  add  the  Truffles  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  When 
the  Truffles  are  thoroughly  warmed  take  out  the  faggot  and  dish 
them  up.  Pour  the  gravy  over  them  and  serve  them  with  a  dish  of 
fresh  butter. 

NOTE.— When  Truffles  are  allowed  to  boil  in  their  sauce,  or  to  remain  too  long  on  the  fire,  they 

become  shrivelled  and  hard. 

« 

TRUFFLES,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1601. — Chop  two  shallots  finely  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  spoonful  of  sweet  oil.     Warm  it  thoroughly  and  be  careful 
24 


370  HARDER'S  AMEKICAN  COOKERY. 

not  to  let  it  get  browned.  Then  add  a  wine-glassful  of  Madeira 
wine  and  reduce  the  whole  to  one-quarter  of  its  original  quantity. 
Then  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce  and  a  small  clove  of 
garlic  chopped  finely,  and  let  it  boil  for  five  minutes.  Then  add 
the  Truffles,  cut  in  thick  slices,  and  toss  them  over  when  thoroughly 
warmed.  Add  a  piece  of  butter,  to  which  add  a  little  anchovy 
paste,  toss  them  well  over  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  then  serve. 

TRUFFLES,    PIEMONTAISE   STYLE. 

No.  1602.- — Reduce  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine  sauce  and  add  the 
Truffles  with  their  juice.  "When  they  are  thoroughly  warmed  dish 
them  up,  and  again  warm  the  gravy  and  add  to  it  half  a  tea-spoonful 
of  Anchovy  butter  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Mix  it  well  off  of 
the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  then  pour  it  over  the  Truffles 
and  serve  them  hot. 

NOTE. — If  the  Truffles  are  large  slice  them,  and  if  small  leave  them  whole. 
BAKED   TRUFFLES,    WITH   CREAM   SAUCE. 

No.  1603. — Put  a  wine-glassful  of  white  wine  in  a  saucepan,  and 
when  it  is  reduced  to  one-quarter  of  its  original  quantity  add  one 
spoonful  of  meat  glaze  with  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce  and  a 
small  can  of  sliced  Truffles.  Season  with  a  little  salt  and  nutmeg, 
then  put  them  in  a  buttered  baking  dish  and  sprinkle  some  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  over  the  top.  Wipe  the  border  and  bake  it  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

TRUFFLES  BAKED  IN  SHELLS. 

No.  1604. — Cut  the  Truffles  in  small  pieces  or  slice  them  and  then 
put  them  in  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce.  Butter  the  shells,  fill 
them  with  the  Truffles,  sprinkle  some  fresh  bread  crumbs  over 
them,  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each,  and  bake  them  in  an 
oven.  Serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

NOTE.— They  may  also  be  made  with  Cream  sauce,  using  a  reduced  Cream  sauce  in  place  of  the 
.Madeira  wine  sauce. 

TRUFFLES,    WITH   MADEIRA  WINE   SAUCE. 

No.  1605. — Reduce  a  Madeira  wine  sauce  with  the  juice  of  the 
Truffles,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  add  the  Truffles  (sliced),  and  a 
piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  over  well.  They  may  be  served  on 
toast  or  gratinated  crusts. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  371 

ESSENCE   OF   TRUFFLES. 

No.  1606. — As  we  have  no  fresh  Truffles  in  this  country,  the  juice 
of  the  canned  article  must  be  used.  Put  the  juice  in  a  saucepan, 
add  a  little  Madeira  wine,  cover  the  saucepan,  and  reduce  it  to  half 
of  its  quantity.  Use  it  in  the  sauce  with  the  Truffles,  or  in  any 
sauce  where  an  essence  of  Truffles  is  needed. 

TKUFFLES   FOR   GARNITURE. 

No.  1607. — For  large  garnitures,  peel  the  Truffles  and  warm  them 
thoroughly  in  champagne  or  Madeira  wine.  The  black  ones  are 
preferred,  and  are  dressed  in  bunches  with  other  garnitures.  To 
garnish  entrees  they  are  served  with  a  white  or  brown  sauce.  The 
small  ones  are  glazed,  and  may  be  used  baked  in  shells,  or  cut  in 
the  shape  of  olives  and  used  with  other  garnitures. 

TRUFFLES,   FOR  COLD   GARNITURES. 

No.  1608.— The  Truffles  may  be  used  whole,  or  can  be  peeled  and 
sliced.  Cook  them  in  champagne  or  Madeira  wine,  as  for  a  hot 
garniture.  Then  let  them  get  cool,  and  glaze  them  with  Aspic  jelly, 
or  mask  them  with  a  cold  Champagne  sauce.  Dress  them  in 
bunches  with  Aspic  jelly,  or  in  crusts  cut  in  fancy  shapes,  or  pep- 
per boxes.  Garnish  it  with  Aspic  jelly. 

PUREE  OF  TRUFFLES,  FOR  GARNITURES. 

No.  1609. — Pound  half  a  pound  of  Truffles  and  six  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  mortar  into  a  fine  paste,  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Prepare  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine  sauce  reduced  with  the  juice  of  the 
Truffles.  When  ready  to  serve,  add  the  paste  to  the  sauce,  stirring 
it  off  of  the  fire  until  melted. 

TRUFFLE   SALAD,  WITH   ARTICHOKES,  LUNING   STYLE. 

No.  1610. — Peel  half  a  dozen  young,  tender  artichokes.  Cut  the 
bottoms  in  thin  slices,  and  sprinkle  them  with  a  little  salt. 
Let  them  macerate  for  twenty  minutes,  then  drain  them  on  a 
napkin.  Now  slice  finely  one-quarter  of  its  quantity  of  Truffles, 
and  put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  with  the  artichokes,  having  pre- 
viously rubbed  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  with  some  garlic.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Bub  the  yolks  of  two  hard  boiled  eggs 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  them  in  a  bowl  with  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  English  mustard  diluted  with  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar.  Pour 


372  HAKDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

this  dressing  over  the  Truffles  and  artichokes,  cover  the  bowl  and, 
when  ready  to  serve,  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  arrange  it 
properly. 

TRUFFLE  SALAD,  WITH  POTATOES,  RUSSIAN  STYLE,. 

No.  1611. — Slice  one  dozen  boiled  new  potatoes,  and  put  them  in 
a  salad  bowl  with  the  same  quantity  of  sliced  Truffles.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and,  vinegar,  and  cover  the  bowl.  In  twenty 
minutes  add  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley,  tarragon  and  chives, 
and  mix  them  well  together.  Arrange  the  salad  properly,  and  mask 
it  with  a  Mayonnaise  dressing  mixed  with  a  little  mustard. 

SMALL   TRUFFLE   PATES,  BENNETT   STYLE. 

No.  1612. — Prepare  two  dozen  pates  with  puff  paste.  Cut  the 
Truffles  in  small  pieces,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  glassful 
of  dry  champagne.  When  the  moisture  is  reduced  add  the  Truffles, 
four  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine  sauce,  and  one  spoonful  of  game 
puree.  Fill  the  pate's  with  this  mixture,  put  on  the  covers,  and 
serve  them  hot. 

STUFFED  TRUFFLES. 

No.  1613. — Scoop  out  the  centres  of  two  dozen  large  Truffles, 
without  injuring  the  sides,  and  chop  the  parts  scooped  out  finely. 
Chop  two  shallots  finely,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of 
butter,  and  cook  them  without  letting  them  get  browned.  Then 
add  a  small  glass  of  Madeira  wine  and  the  chopped  Truffles.  Let 
them  cook  until  the  moisture  is  reduced,  after  which  allow  them  to 
get  cold.  Then  add  a  forced  meat  of  chicken  or  game.  Stuff  the 
Truffles  with  this  mixture,  arrange  them  in  a  flat  saucepan,  and  set 
them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  until  they  are  glazed.  Serve 
them  with  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce  around  the  dish. 


ARTICLE  ccxvil. 


TUBEROUS-ROOTED  CHICKLING  WETCH,  or  TUBEROUS- 

Freuch  ROOTED   PEA.  German 

Gesse.  Knotig  Gess. 

No.  1614. — This  is  a  perennial  plant,  having  spreading  roots  that 
are  furnished  with  numerous  black  irregular-shaped  tubers,  which 
weigh  from  one  to  three  ounces  each.  The  roots  are  farinaceous, 
and  when  cooked  have  a  rich  taste,  somewhat  like  roasted  chestnuts. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  373 


CCXVIII 


French  TURMERIC,   OR    CURCUMA.  German 

Curcuma,  or  Turmeric.  Curcumei. 

No.  1615. — The  root  of  this  plant  is  perennial,  tuberous,  palmate 
and  internally  of  a  deep  yellow  color.  It  is  a  native  of  the  East 
Indies  and  China,  the  latter  furnishing  the  best  kind.  The  odor  is 
peculiar;  the  taste  warm,  bitterish,  and  feebly  aromatic.  It  tinges 
the  saliva  yellow.  The  root  is  a  stimulant  aromatic,  bearing  some 
resemblance  to  ginger  in  its  operation,  and  is  much  used  in  India 
as  a  condiment.  It  is  used  in  cookery  to  impart  a  yellow  color  to 
rice  and  foreign  soups. 


CCXIX. 


TURNIP. 

JVavet.  Rube. 

No.  1616. — The  Turnip  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  has  been 
cultivated  from  time  immemorial.  The  roots  of  all  the  varieties 
attain  their  full  size  during  the  first  year.  It  is  most  easily  affected 
in  its  form  and  flavor  by  soil,  climate,  and  mode  of  culture.  There 
are  a  great  many  varieties.  It  is  a  wholesome  and  agreeable 
vegetable. 

CULTUKE. 

No.  1617. — Sow  in  drills  fourteen  inches  apart,  and  half  an  inch 
deep.  Keep  them  perfectly  free  from  weeds  and,  when  the  bottoms 
begin  to  enlarge  brush  away  the  earth  from  about  the  roots  to  the 
depth  of  half  an  inch  or  more,  and  give  them  a  light  dressing  of 
wood  ashes.  It  is  the  surest  mode  of  obtaining  fair  and  smooth 
turnips  in  old  gardens,  where  they  are  almost  certain  to  grow  wormy 
if  the  earth  is  allowed  to  remain  in  contact  with  the  roots.  For  the 
spring  and  summer  crops  it  is  important  to  get  them  started  very 
early,  so  that  they  may  have  time  to  grow  to  a  sufficient  size  before 
hot  weather,  when  they  will  soon  become  tough  and  strong. 

For  the  fall  crop  sow  in  the  Middle  and  Western  States  in  the  lat- 
ter part  of  July  and  August,  as  directed  for  the  spring  sowing. 


374  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

WHITE  FLESH  VARIETIES. 

EARLY   PURPLE    TOP    MUNICH. 

No.  1618. — A  very  early  handsome  Turnip  of  a  white  color,  with 
a  bright  purplish-red  top.  It  is  of  good  quality  when  young,  but 
bitter  when  old.  It  is  one  of  the  best  for  first  crop. 

WHITE   EGG. 

No.  1619. — A  quick  growing  egg-shaped,  perfectly  smooth,  pure 
white  variety,  growing  half  out  of  the  ground,  with  a  small  top  and 
rough  leaves.  The  flesh  is  very  sweet  and  mild,  never  having  the 
rank  strong  taste  of  some  varieties. 

EARLY  WHITE   STONE. 

No.  1620.— This  is  round,  of  firm  texture  and  quick  growth; 
medium  size,  and  much  cultivated. 

JERSEY  TURNIP. 

\ 

No.  1621. — An  exceedingly  delicate,  sweet,  white  Turnip  for  table 
use.  It  is  very  popular,  and  is  esteemed  as  one  of  the  best.  It 
grows  long,  and  is  somewhat  like  a  parsnip  in  form. 

EARLY   WHITE  DUTCH. 

No.  1622. — A  medium  sized,  white  flat  Turnip,  of  quick  growth, 
juicy  and  of  excellent  quality  when  young.  Sow  it  in  the  spring  or 
fall. 

EARLY  WHITE  FLAT  DUTCH  STRAP-LEAVED. 

No.  1623. — A  most  excellent  garden  variety,  that  is  much  used 
in  the  Southern  States.  It  is  very  early,  erect  and  tender,  and  one 
of  the  best  for  table  use. 

EARLY  PURPLE  TOP  STRAP-LEAVED. 

No.  1624. — Similar  to  the  preceding  variety,  except  in  color, 
being  purple  or  dark  red  on  the  top.  It  is  of  good  quality. 

COW  HORN,  OR  LONG  WHITE. 

No.  1625. — Carrot-like  in  form,  growing  nearly  half  out  of  the 
ground,  and  is  generally  slightly  crooked.  It  is  pure  white,  except 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  375 

a -little  shade  of  greeii  near  the  top.     It  is  delicate  and  well  flavored, 
of  very  rapid  growth,  and  is  a  favorite  for  fall  and  winter  use. 


PURPLE   TOP   MAMMOTH. 


No.    1626. — Globe-shaped  and  large,   firm  in  texture,   juicy,   of 
exceedingly  quick  growth,  and  very  hardy. 


LARGE   WHITE   FLAT   NORFOLK. 


No.   1627. — A  variety  universally  grown.     It  is  round  and  flat, 
being  white  in  color.     The  tops  of  this  variety  are. used  for  greens, 


POMERANEAN   WHITE   GLOBE. 


No.  1628. — One  of  the  most  productive  kinds,  and  is  of  the  most 
perfect  globe-shape,  the  skin  being  white  and  smooth. 


PURPLE-TOP   WHITE    GLOBE. 


No.  1629. — A  variety  of  the  purple-top  flat  Turnip  that  is  globular 
in  form,  beautiful  in  appearance,  of  most  excellent  quality,  and  a 
good  keeper. 


SWEET   GERMAN. 


No.  1630. — A  popular  variety  in  the  New  England  States.  The 
flesh  is  white,  hard,  firm  and  sweet.  It  keeps  well,  and  is  one  of 
the  best  for  winter  use. 


SEVEN  TOP. 


No.  1631. — Cultivated  extensively  in  the  South  for  the  tops, 
which  are  used  for  greens.  It  is  very  hardy,  and  will  grow  all 
winter,  but  does  not  produce  a  good  bulb,  and  is  only  recommended 
for  the  tops. 


YELLOW-FLESHED  SORTS. 

EARLY   YELLOW    MONTMAGNY. 


No.  1632. — The  most  beautiful  of  the  yellow-fleshed  varieties, 
and  very  early.  The  bulb  is  oval,  medium  sized,  and  clear  yellow, 
stained  with  bright  purple  at  the  top.  The  flesh  is  yellow,  finely 
grained,  sweet  and  tender. 


376  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

LARGE  AMBER  GLOBE. 

No.  1633.  —  One  of  the  best  varieties.  Flesh  yellow,  finely 
grained  and  sweet.  The  skin  is  yellow,  with  a  green  top.  It  grows 
to  large  size,  and  is  a  good  keeper. 

ORANGE   JELLY,    OR   GOLDEN   BALL. 

No.  1634. — One  of  the  most  delicate  and  sweetest  of  yellow-fleshed 
Turnips.  It  is  not  of  large  size,  but  is  firm,  hard  and  of  most  ex- 
cellent flavor.  It  keeps  well,  and  is  a  superior  table  variety. 

PURPLE-TOP  YELLOW  ABERDEEN. 

• 

No.  1635. — The  roots  are  medium  in  size  and  round  in  form.  The 
flesh  is  pale-yellow,  tender  and  sugary.  It  is  hardy  and  produc- 
tive, and  keeps  well. 

EARLY  YELLOW   FINLAND. 

No.  1636. — An  early  yellow-fleshed  variety,  beautiful  in  form  and 
medium  sized.  The  flesh  is  remarkably  fine,  closely  grained  and 
of  a  rich,  sugary  flavor.  An  excellent  early  variety. 

EARLY   YELLOW    MALTA. 

No.  1637. — This  is  a  beautiful,  symmetrical,  early  variety,  of 
medium  size.  The  skin  is  very  smooth,  and  of  a  bright  orange- 
yellow  color.  It  is  sweet  and  tender,  and  one  of  the  best  yellow 
summer  Turnips. 

MASHED   TURNIPS. 

No.  1638. — Pare  the  Turnips  and  cut  them  in  slices  (when  they 
are  old  parboil  them  for  five  minutes),  put  them  in  a  saucepan, 
cover  them  with  boiling  water,  season  with  salt,  cover  the  saucepan 
and  boil  them  until  tender.  Then  drain  them  in  a  colander,  and 
when  dry,  pound  them  through  a  fine  colander,  return  them  to  the 
saucepan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  mix 
the  whole  well  together  and  warm  them  thoroughly. 

PUREE   OP  TURNIPS,    WITH  CREAM. 

No.  1639. — Prepare  the  Turnips  as  in  No.  1638,  and,  when  they 
are  dry,  rub  them  through  a  fine  colander.  Then  put  them  in  a  flat 
saucepan,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  add  one 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OP  TASTE.  377 

glassful  of  cream,  and  reduce  the  puree  to  its  proper  consistency 
while  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Before  serving  add  a  piece 
of  butter. 

NOTE. — When  they  are  to  be  used  as  a  garniture  they  should  be  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve. 
PUREE   OF   TURNIPS,    WITH   CREAM,    FRENCH   STYLE. 

No.  1640. — Pare  two  dozen  young  white  Turnips,  slice  them  and 
parboil  them  until  they  are  nearly  tender.  Then  drain  them  and 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Season  them  with 
salt,  pepper,  a  little  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  cover  the  sauce- 
pan and  let  them  cook  until  the  moisture  is  nearly  reduced  (not 
letting  them  get  browned).  Then  add  four  spoonfuls  of  Cream 
sauce,  mix  them  well  together,  and  rub  them  through  a  tine  sieve. 
Put  the  puree  in  a  flat  saucepan  and  reduce  it  to  the  proper  con- 
sistency while  slowly  adding  a  cupful  of  cream.  Before  serving 
add  a  piece  of  butter. 

GLAZED  TURNIPS  (BROWN)  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  1641. — Pare  one  dozen  Turnips  and  cut  them  in  four  or  six 
pieces,  according  to  their  size.  Trim  them  in  a  clove-like  shape, 
and  parboil  them  for  five  minutes.  Then  drain  them  and  put  them 
in  a  small  saucepan.  Moisten  them  with  broth  and  add  a  piece  of 
butter,  a<pinch  of  sugar  and  a  little  salt.  Cook  them  on  a  brisk 
fire,  and  when  the  broth  is  reduced  and  the  Turnips  nicely  glazed, 
dish  them  up  without  breaking  them.  This  may  be  served  with 
brown  gravy  or  with  stewed  ducks,  or  any  kind  of  braised  meats, 
using  the  gravy  the  meats  were  braised  in. ' 

GLAZED  TURNIPS  (WHITE)  FOR  GARNITURE. 

No.  1642. — Prepare  the  Turnips  as  in  No.  1641,  but  be  careful 
not  to  let  them  get  too  brown  in  color.  Serve  them  with  a  Butter, 
Cream  or  Allemande  sauce,  with  a  boiled  leg  of  mutton  or  any  meat 
where  a  white  vegetable  garniture  is  required. 

STEWED   TURNIPS,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1643. — Use  only  small  young  Turnips.  Peel  and  round  them 
all  of  equal  size,  parboil  them  for  three  minutes,  then  drain  them 
and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  them 
lightly  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  then 
moisten  them  with  white  broth  and  finish  cooking  them.  When 
they  are  done  dish  them  up.  Reduce  the  broth  to  a  light  glaze  and 
add  two  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce.  In  two  or  three  minutes 


378  HAEDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY, 

take  it  off  of  the  fire,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  stir  the  same  well 
until  the  butter  is  melted.  Then  add  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley 
and  pour  it  over  the  Turnips. 

STEWED   TURNIPS   WITH   ONIONS. 

No.  1644. — Pare  one  dozen  Turnips,  cut  them  in  four  or  six  parts 
and  trim  the  edges.  Peel  one  and  a  half  dozen  small  white  onions 
and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  the  Turnips.  Add  water  or  broth 
to  cover  them,  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  salt.  Cover  the  sauce- 
pan and  let  them  cook  until  done,  then  drain  off  the  broth  and  dish 
them  up  in  a  deep  vegetable  dish.  Make  a  Butter  sauce,  into  which 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard  flour  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg  and, 
when  ready  to  serve,  pour  it  over  the  Turnips. 

STEWED   TURNIPS,    CONVENT   STYLE. 

No.  1645. — Pare  and  cut  one  dozen  Turnips  in  quarters,  trim  the 
edges,  parboil  them  for  five  minutes  and  then  drain  them.  Put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  chicken  broth,  a  little  salt,  a 
pinch  of  sugar  and  four  ounces  of  marrow  cut  in  small  squares, 
cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  cook  until  thoroughly  done  when 
the  broth  should  be  three-quarters  reduced.  Then  set  them  on  the 
side  of  the  fire  and  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  cup  of  cream, 
into  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs.  Toss  the  whole  well 
over  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve  them  immediately  as  they 
must  not  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  fire  after  the  eggs  are  mixed. 

BOILED   TURNIPS,    PLAIN. 

No.  1646. — Pare  the  Turnips  and  cut  them  in  four  or  six  pieces. 
Then  trim  the  edges  and  parboil  them  for  three  minutes.  Put  them 
in  a  saucepan,  cover  them  with  water  or  broth,  add  a  piece  of  butter, 
a  little  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them 
boil  until  thoroughly  done.  Then  drain  and  serve  them  with  a 
little  butter  over  them. 

BOILED   TURNIPS   WITH   WHITE   SAUCE. 

No.  1647. — Prepare  and  cook  the  Turnips  as  in  No.  1646  and, 
when  they  are  done,  drain  them,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes  and  add  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  Allemande  sauce.  Before  serving  sprinkle  a  little 
finely  chopped  parsley  over  them. 

NOTE. — The  above  is  known  as  Turnips,  Poulette  style.  A  very  nice  sauce  may  be  made  of  the 
broth  in  which  the  Turnips  were  cooked  that  is  somewhat  similar  to  a  Butter  sauce. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  379 

SOUP — PUREE    OF   TURNIPS. 

No.  1648. — Pare  and  slice  two  dozen  white  Turnips,  parboil  them 
for  five  minutes,  drain  them  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter  and  a  little  sugar.  Set  them  on  the  fire  and,  when  the 
moisture  is  reduced,  let  them  get  lightly  colored.  Then  add  two 
quarts  of  white  broth  and  a  faggot  of  parsley,  garnished  with  two 
leeks.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let  them  get  well  cooked.  Then 
add  two  quarts  of  lightly  thickened  chicken  or  veal  broth.  Fifteen 
minutes  after  this  skim  it  well,  take  out  the  faggot,  and  rub  the 
soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  back  in  a  saucepan  to  keep  warm, 
and  season  to  taste.  Before  serving  add  six  ounces  of  butter  and  a 
pint  of  cream,  in  which  dilute  the  yolks  of  eight  raw  eggs.  Stir  it 
well  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  serve  it  with  boiled  rice  or  small 
pieces  of  toasted  bread. 

SOUP — PUREE   OF   TURNIPS,    WITH   CREAM. 

No.  1649. — Prepare  the  Turnips  as  in  No.  1648,  and,  when  reduc- 
ing the  moisture,  keep  the  Turnips  white.  When  they  are  cooked 
add  three  quarts  of  Cream  sauce,  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
put  the  puree  in  a  saucepan  to  keep  warm  in  a  hot  water  bath. 
Season  to  taste,  and  before  serving  add  six  ounces  of  butter  divided 
into  small  pieces,  and  a  pint  of  cream,  in  which  dilute  the  yolks  of 
eight  raw  eggs.  Stir  it  briskly  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  serve 
with  pearl  barley,  previously  cooked  in  broth. 

SOUP — PUREE  OF  TURNIPS,  WITH  FARINA. 

No,  1650. — Prepare  a  puree  of  Turnips  as  in  Nos.  1648  or  1649, 
with  white  or  yellow  Turnips.  When  the  soup  is  done  add  some 
farina,  which  must  be  cooked  separately  in  broth.  This  soup  must 
not  be  too  thick. 

PECTORAL   BROTH,    WITH   TURNIPS. 

No.  1651. — Put  in  a  saucepan  one  gallon  of  cold  water,  with  four 
pounds  of  veal  shin,  cut  in  small  pieces,  two  pounds  of  lights,  and 
one  ounce  of  shelled  almonds.  Set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  slowly  until 
the  broth  is  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity.  While  the  broth 
is  being  reduced  prepare  one  dozen  Turnips.  Pare  them,  then  wrap 
them  in  cooking  paper  and  bake  them.  When  they  are  done 
remove  the  papers  and  put  the  Turnips  in  the  broth.  Then  reduce 
the  broth  to  one  quarter  of  its  original  quantity.  Then  strain  the 


380  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

broth,  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  and  add  two  ounces  of  rock-candy 
and  one  of  white  powdered  gum.  Keep  the  broth  warm  and  serve 
it  as  required. 


ARTICLE  CCXX. 


French  TURNIP-CABBAGE,   OR   KOHL-RABI.  German 

Chou  rave.  Kohlrube. 

No.  1652. — The  Turnip-Cabbage,  or  Kohl-rabi,  is  a  vegetable  that 
is  intermediate  between  the  cabbage  and  the  turnip,  combining  the 
flavor  of  both.  The  edible  part  is  a  turnip-shaped  bulb  that  is 
formed  by  the  swelling  of  the  stem.  For  table  use  it  should  be  cut 
when  small,  as  it  is  then  tender  and  delicate.  When  it  attains  its 
full  size  it  becomes  tough  and  stringy. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1653. — It  is  cultivated  best  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  rows, 
from  May  to  July.  It  is  difficult  to  transplant,  hence  it  is  best  to 
sow  the  entire  crop  from  seed,  and  thin  it  out  as  it  stands. 

EARLY  WHITE   VIENNA. 

No.  1654. — An  early,  small  and  handsome  variety,  with  a  white 
bulb. 

EARLY   PURPLE   VIENNA. 

No.  1655. — This  is  similar  to  the  White  Vienna,  except  in  color. 

STUFFED   TURNIP   CABBAGE. 

No.  1656. — Peel  and  wash  one  dozen  Turnip-Cabbages  of  equal 
size,  parboil  them  until  they  are  nearly  cooked,  and  then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water  and  drain  them.  Cut  the  top  parts  off,  and 
scoop  out  half  of  the  centre  of  each,  which  you  will  chop  finely. 
Add  to  it  some  raw  forced  meat  of  veal  with  fine  herbs,  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  some  finely-chopped  chives,  and  mix 
them  well  together.  Then  stuff  the  scooped  Cabbages  with  this 
preparation  and  arrange  them  in  a  buttered  flat  saucepan.  Moisten 
them  with  a  little  veal  gravy,  then  let  them  boil  up  once,  after 
which  set  them  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly  until  tender, 
basting  them  occasionally  with  the  gravy.  When  done  dish  them 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  381 

up.  Strain  the  gravy  into  another  saucepan,  skim  off  the  grease, 
and  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Espagnole  sauce.  Reduce  it  to  its  proper 
consistency  and  pour  it  over  the  Turnip-Cabbages. 

TURNIP-CABBAGE,   WITH   CEEAM   SAUCE. 

No.  1657. — Peel  one  dozen  Turnip-Cabbages,  cut  them  in  scallops 
and  boil  them  in  lightly  salted  water,  in  which  a  piece  of  butter 
has  been  put.  When  they  are  tender  drain  off  the  water,  add  four 
spoonfuls  of  Cream  sauce  and  a  piece  of  butter,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Toss  them  well  together  in  the  pan,  and  then 
serve. 

TUENIP-CABBAGE,    WITH   BUTTEE   SAUCE. 

No.  1658. — Prepare  them  as  in  No.  1657,  using  Butter  sauce  in- 
stead of  Cream  sauce. 

TUENIP-CABBAGE,    GERMAN  STYLE. 

No.  1659. — Peel  and  slice  one  dozen  Turnip-Cabbages,  parboil 
them  for  five  minutes  and  then  drain  them.  Slice  two  onions  finely 
and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  them 
lightly  and  then  add  the  Cabbages.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg,  and  moisten  them  with  a  good  broth.  Cover  the  saucepan 
and  let  them  cook  until  tender,  when  the  broth  will  be  nearly  re- 
duced. Then  add  three  spoonfuls  of  Butter  or  Allemande  sauce, 
and  a  little  veal  gravy,  allowing  it  to  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Before  serving  add  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley. 

TUENIP-CABBAGE,    SMOTHEEED    AND    GLAZED. 

No.  1660. — Peel  one  dozen  Turnip-Cabbages  of  even  size,  parboil 
them  until  they  are  half  cooked,  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water 
and  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Then  cut  out  the  center  of  each  with 
a  round  cutter,  without  breaking  them.  Arrange  them  in  a  deep 
flat  saucepan  lined  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Then  chop  one 
handful  of  fresh  mushrooms  finely  and  put  them  in  another  sauce- 
pan with  one  chopped  shallot  and  a  piece  of  butter.  Cover  the 
saucepan  and  let  them  cook  until  the  moisture  is  reduced.  While 
doing  this  chop  the  portion  of  the  Cabbage  that  you  scooped  out 
finely,  and  add  it  to  the  mushrooms  when  the  moisture  is  reduced. 
Season  them  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  add  four  spoonfuls  of 
reduced  Allemande  sauce  and  mix  the  whole  together  while  adding 
the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs.  Now  put  this  preparation  in  an  earthen 
bowl  and  when  it  is  cold,  add  to  it  four  spoonfuls  of  forced  meat  of 


382  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

chicken.  Then  fill  the  centres  of  the  Cabbages  with  this  mixture, 
moisten  them  lightly  with  veal  broth,  put  the  cover  on  the  pan  and 
set  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  they  are  nicely  glazed  dish  them 
up  and  serve  with  them  a  reduced  Allemande  sauce  flavored  with 
essence  of  mushrooms. 

TURNIP   CABBAGE,    FOR   GARNITURES. 

No.  1661. — For  garnishing  joints  prepare  it  as  in  No.  1656,  and 
alternate  with  stuffed  tomatoes  or  mushrooms.  For  entrees  of 
chops,  etc.,  prepare  them  as  in  No.  1657  and  1658.  Pour  a  light 
sauce  over  them  and  arrange  the  chops  around  them,  on  the  dish,  in 
a  circle. 


ccxxi. 


TURNIP-ROOTED  CHERVIL. 

Cerfeuil  (enracine).  Knotig  Gartenkerbd. 

No.  1662. — This  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant  that  is  cultivated  for 
its  root,  which  is  a  valuable  esculent.  The  roots  are  of  fusiform, 
about  four  or  five  inches  long,  and  nearly  one  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter.  The  skin  is  grayish-black  in  color,  and  the  flesh  is  white 
and  farinaceous.  It  is  boiled  and  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  oyster  plant. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1663. — Sow  it  in  drills,  in  rich,  mellow  soil,  either  in  April 
or  October,  and  treat  it  as  you  would  carrots. 


ARTICLE;  ccxxil. 


UNICORN  ROOT. 

Unicorn.  Einhornwurzel. 

No.  1664. — This  is  a  hardy  annual  plant  with  peculiarly  shaped 
seed-pods,  which,  when  young  and  tender,  are  highly  prized  for 
pickling,  and  by  many  are  considered  superior  to  cucumbers.  The 
pods  are  produced  in  large  numbers  and  should  be  gathered  when 
about  half  grown,  as  they  are  worthless  when  the  flesh  hardens. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OP   TASTE.  383 

CULTURE. 

No.  1665. — Sow  them  in  April  or  May,  in  open  ground,  about 
three  feet  apart  in  each  direction,  as  the  plants  spread  considerably 
when  growing.  They  are  cultivated  easily. 


ARTICLE  CCXXIII. 


French  VALERIAN.  German 

Valeriane.  Baldrian. 

No.  1666. — This  is  an  annual  plant,  the  roots  of  which  are  used 
for  medicinal  purposes.  When  in  blossom  the  plant  presents  a 
beautiful  appearance.  The  stem  is  smooth  and  branching,  and  the 
leaves  are  oblong,  thick,  fleshy  and  of  a  glossy-green  color.  The 
young  leaves  are  used  as  a  salad. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1667. — It  succeeds  best  in  warm  light  soil.  Sow  the  seeds 
during  the  latter  part  of  April  in  drills  that  are  fourteen  inches 
apart.  Continue  sowing  every  fortnight  until  July  for  a  succession 
of  crops. 


VANILLA. 

Vanille.  Vanille. 

No.  1668. — This  is  a  genus  of  orchidaceous  plants  that  are  natives 
of  South  America,  the  West  Indies,  and  Mexico.  It  is  a  fleshy, 
dark  green  perennial,  climbing  plant,  with  a  long,  smooth,  dark 
green  stem,  much  branched,  and  finished  at  the  nodes  with  serial 
roots, 'which  cling  to  and  obtain  nourishment  from  the  tree  support- 
ing the  plant.  The  dark  green  tough  leaves  are  oval,  sessile,  fleshy 
and  veinless.  The  pale,  greenish-yellow  flowers  are  about  two  inches 
in  diameter.  The  fruit  is  a  slender  pod  about  eight  inches  long, 
filled  with  an  oily  mass  containing  numerous  small,  black,  shining 
seeds.  The  pods  are  collected  before  they  are  quite  ripe,  dried  in 
the  shade,  covered  with  a  coating  of  fixed  oil,  and  then  tied  in 


384  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

| 

bundles  which  are  surrounded  with  sheet  lead,  or  enclosed  in  small 
metallic  boxes,  and  sent  to  market.  Several  varieties  of  Vanilla 
exist  in  commerce.  The  most  valuable  is  the  Manza  Vanilla.  It 
has  a  peculiar,  strong,  agreeable  odor,  and  a  warm  aromatic,  sweet- 
ish taste.  The  interior  pulpy  portion  is  the  most  aromatic.  The 
Simarona  Vanilla  is  smaller,  of  a  lighter  color,  and  less  aromatic. 
The  pods  are  dry,  and  contain  no  Vanilla.  The  Pompona  or  Babo 
Vanilla  has  pods  that  are  from  five  to  seven  inches  long,  of  a  dark 
brown  color,  and  possessing  a  strong  odor  something  like  anise. 
Vanilla  is  used  in  medicine,  in  perfumery,  and  for  flavoring  in 
cookery. 

VANILLA  FLAVOR, 

No.  1669. — Cut  four  Vanilla  beans  in  pieces  one  inch  long;  then 
split  them,  and  put  them  in  a  quart  bottle.  Pour  over  them  some 
wine  spirits  or  white  whiskey,  and  cork  the  bottle  tightly.  Shake 
it  well  every  day  for  a  week,  and  then  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 
Keep  the  bottle  tightly  corked  always. 

VANILLA  BEANS. 

No.  1670. — A  Vanilla  Bean  may  be  boiled  in  the  milk  when 
making  custards  or  creams.  When  it  is  boiled,  remove  the  Bean, 
and  put  it  back  in  the  bottle,  as  it  may  be  used  several  times. 
After  repeated  usage  when  almost  all  of  the  flavor  has  been  extracted 
from  the  Bean,  put  it  in  a  mortar  with  some  powdered  sugar  and 
pound  them  to  a  fine  powder.  Then  sift  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  put 
it  in  a  bottle,  keep  it  tightly  corked,  and  use  it  for  flavoring 
cakes,  etc. 


ARTICLE  CCXXV. 


French  VEGETABLES.  German 

Legume  (variee}.  Gemuse. 

No.  1671. — All  kinds  and  varieties  of  plants  that  are  cultivated 
for  culinary  purposes  are  classed  as  vegetables.  Of  some  kinds 
merely  the  seeds  or  roots  are  eaten;  of  others,  the  leaves  or  the 
fruit  alone  is  partaken  of,  while  others  are  used  only  for  seasoning. 

They  are  classified  as  follows : 

Alliaceous  plants,  such  as  garlic,  leeks,  onions  and  shallots. 

Asparaginous  plants,  such  as  asparagus,  hops,  cardoons  and  arti- 
chokes. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  385 

Brassicaceous    plants,   such   as  cabbage,    cauliflower,  kale   and 
Brussels  sprouts. 

Cucurbitaceous  plants,  such  as  melons,  cucumbers  and  squash . 

Esculent  roots,  such  as  carrots,  potatoes,  turnips,  oyster  plant 
and  parsnips. 

Esculent  fungi,  such  as  mushrooms  and  truffles. 

Leguminous  plants,  such  as  beans,  lentils  and  peas. 

Oleraceous  plants,  such  as  aromatic  and  pot  herbs,  as  described 
in  Article  XIII. 

Salad  plants,  such  as  celery,  endives,  lettuce,  cress,  corn-salad 
and  dandelion. 

Spinaceous  plants,  such  as  spinach,  sorrel,  sea-beet,  nettle  and 
orach. 

VEGETABLE  BALLS,   TUTKISH  STYLE. 

No.  1672. — Select  a  good  head  of  cabbage,  trim  off  the  white, 
tender  leaves,  and  parboil  them  for  five  minutes.  Then  immerse 
them  in  cold  water,  dry  them  on  a  napkin,  and  remove  the  hard 
ribs.  Chop  one  pound  of  mutton  fillet  finely.  Put  it  in  a  bowl, 
and  add  one  finely-sliced  onion,  one  handful  of  lightly-parboiled 
rice,  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley,  three  spoonfuls  of  reduced 
Allemande  sauce,  and  season  it  highly.  Mix  the  stuffing  well 
together,  and  roll  it  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  walnut. 
Cover  them  carefully  with  the  parts  of  the  cabbage  leaves, 
arrange  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  close  together,  in  from  four 
to  six  layers,  seasoning  each  layer,  and  then  moisten  with 
broth  to  cover.  Put  a  cover  on  them  to  keep  them  down 
in  the  pan.  Then  let  them  boil  .until  the  broth  is  half  re- 
duced. After  this  set  them  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  cook  slowly. 
When  they  are  cooked  the  broth  should  be  almost  entirely  reduced. 
Put  the  balls  on  the  dish  they  are  to  be  served  on,  and  make  a 
sauce  of  the  strained  broth,  diluted  with  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs. 
Add  the  juice  of  one  lemon  to  it,  pour  it  over  the  balls  and  then 
serve  them  hot. 

TIMBAL  OP  VEGETABLE  BALLS,  MILANAISE   STYLE. 

No.  1673. — Prepare  the  cabbage  leaves  as  in  No.  1672.  Chop 
one  pound  of  mutton  fillet  finely,  and  put  it  in  a  bowl.  Add  half 
a  pound  of  grated  fresh  fat  pork,  one  handful  of  fresh  bread  crumbs, 
one  finely-chopped  onion,  two  spoonfuls  of  .finely-chopped  fresh 
mushrooms,  and  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley.  Then  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  add  two  raw  eggs,  and  mix  the  whole  together. 
Roll  this  stuffing  into  small  balls  about  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Cover 
them  carefully  with  the  parts  of  the  cabbage  leaves,  arrange  them 
25  " 


386  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

in  a  flat  saucepan  close  together,  in  from  four  to  six  layers,  season- 
ing each  layer,  and  then  moisten  them  with  broth  to  cover.  Put  a. 
cover  on  them  to  keep  them  down  in  the  pan.  Then  put  them  on 
the  fire  and  let  them  cook  until  the  broth  is  reduced,  and  they  will 
be  thoroughly  cooked. 

Prepare  separately  a  Rice  Rissoti,  as  in  No.  1299,  keeping  it 
firmer,  and  add  to  it  six  ounces  of  butter  and  grated  Parmesan 
cheese. 

Butter  a  Timbal  mould,  line  it  with  the  cabbage  leaves,  and  put 
a  layer  of  the  rice  around  the  sides  and  bottom  about  one-quarter 
of  an  inch  thick.  Now  put  in  a  layer  of  the  balls  and  sprinkle  them 
with  some  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  a  little  reduced  Tomato 
sauce.  Continue  doing  this  until  the  mould  is  full.  Cover  it  with 
a  layer  of  rice,  with  cabbage  leaves  over  it,  and  place  some  thin 
slices  of  fat  pork  on  top  of  the  leaves.  Set  the  mould  in  a  moderate 
oven  to  bake  for  half  an  hour.  Take  out  the  mould,  remove  the 
pork,  and  turn  the  mould  over  on  a  saucepan  cover  to  let  the  moist- 
ure drain  off.  Then  put  the  mould  on  the  dish  it  is  to  be  served 
on,  remove  the  mould  and  pour  over  the  Timbal  a  reduced  Madeira 
wine  sauce,  flavored  with  essence  of  mushrooms. 

VEGETABLE  BORDERS. 

No.  1674. — To  make  vegetable  borders  the  larger  vegetables  must 
first  be  cut  with  a  spoon  or  column  cutter,  in  any  desired  shape. 
Those  generally  used  are  Carrots,  Turnips,  Artichoke  bottoms, 
Green  Peas,  String  Beans,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Flageolet  Beans,  and 
the  flower  buds  of  Cauliflower.  The  Carrots,  Turnips  and  Arti- 
chokes are  first  parboiled,  then  cooked  in  broth  seasoned  with  salt 
and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  The  other  vegetables  are  boiled  in  plain 
water  lightly  salted,  then  immersed  in  cold  water,  so  they  will  re- 
tain their  color.  Then  drain  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Care  must 
be  taken  when  cooking  vegetables  for  borders  not  to  have  them 
underdone. 

Butter  the  mould  lightly  with  clarified  butter,  and  set  it  in  a  pan 
in  which  you  have  some  broken  ice.  Dip  the  vegetables  desired  for 
the  border  in  clarified  butter,  and  place  them  against  the  mould  in 
whatever  design  you  like,  alternating  them  in  color.  When  the 
butter  gets  cold  the  vegetables  will  adhere  to  the  side  of  the  mould. 
When  the  border  is  finished  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  forced  meat  of 
chicken,  being  careful  not  to  disarrange  the  design,  and  to  have  the- 
layers  of  equal  thickness.  Then  fill  the  mould  with  a  vegetable 
garniture,  to  which  add  a  reduced  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce. 
Cover  it  with  a  forced  meat  of  chicken,  and  smooth  it  nicely.  On 
this  put  a  buttered  paper  cover,  and  poach  it  for  twenty  minutes. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE  »•  387 

When  it  is  ready  to  serve  place  a  napkin  on  a  saucepan  cover,  and 
turn  the  mould  on  to  this  napkin.  Let  it  set  for  a  little  while  to 
drain  off  the  moisture.  Then  turn  the  mould  on  to  the  dish  the 
border  is  intended  to  be  served  on,  and  carefully  remove  the  mould. 

NOTE.— This  border  may  be  filled  with  potatoes,  or  any  kind  of  vegetable  puree.  Other  Borders 
can  be  prepared  with  a  puree  of  vegetables,  such  as  celery,  green  peas,  spinach,  and  chestnuts,  re- 
ducing  the  purees  well.  When  they  get  a  little  cooled  add  the  yolks  of  raw  eggs,  mix  them  well  to- 
gether, and  then  fill  the  moulds  with  the  puree.  Then  poach  them  and  proceed  as  explained  above. 

CHARTREUSE. 

No.  1675. — Chartreuse  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  elaborate  of 
all  vegetable  entrees.  Young  vegetables  should  be  obtained,  if 
possible;  aud  they  must  be  prepared  with  care,  and  in  a  tasteful 
manner.  Those  that  are  used  to  ornament  the  mould  should  con- 
sist only  of  such  as  will  not  lose  their  color  in  cooking,  as  their 
fresh  and  bright  appearance  is  what  gives  the  fine  effect  to  the 
entree. 

Wash  and  scrape  some  nice  young  red  carrots,  and  cut  them  in 
pieces  two  inches  long.  With  a  column  cutter  cut  out  as  many  red 
pieces  as  possible,  having  them  one-quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
Put  them  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  as  you  cut  them. 

Now  prepare  an  equal  quantity  of  turnips  in  the  same  manner. 
When  they  are  both  ready,  parboil  them  separately  in  lightly-salted 
water;  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  and  drain  them.  Put  them 
in  separate  saucepans,  cover  each  with  sufficient  white  broth  to 
cook  them;  add  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until 
tender,  when  the  broth  will  be  reduced.  Put  napkins  on  two  plates; 
place  the  carrots  on  one  plate  and  the  turnips  on  the  other;  cover 
each  with  a  napkin,  and  set  them  aside  to  get  cold.  (Some  of  the 
carrots  may  be  cut  in  squares  or  in  diamond  shape  if  desired.) 

While  these  are  cooking,  make  a  vegetable  essence  of  the  carrot 
trimmings,  a  few  turnips,  a  head  of  celery  cut  in  small  pieces,  a  few 
parsley  roots,  and  two  onions,  in  each  of  which  stick  four  cloves. 
Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  three  pints  of  white  broth,  and  as 
soon  as  it  commences  to  boil,  skim  it  well,  and  then  let  it  boil 
slowly  until  the  vegetables  are  thoroughly  cooked.  Strain  the 
broth  through  a  napkin,  and  reduce  it  with  four  spoonfuls  of  Espag- 
nole  sauce  to  its  proper  consistency. 

While  these  are  cooking,  prepare  the  following:  Cut  one  head 
of  cabbage  in  quarters;  remove  the  stalk  and  hard  ribs,  and  par- 
boil the  cabbage  for  four  minutes.  Then  drain  it,  and  tie  each 
piece  together.  Put  the  pieces  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  thin  slices 
of  fat  pork,  and  in  the  centre  put  a  piece  of  trimmed  and  parboiled 
bacon  and  two  sausages,  on  top  of  which  lay  one  dressed  partridge 
or  four  larded  quails.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  nut- 


388  HAEDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

meg,  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished.  Cover  it  with  thin 
slices  of  fat  pork,  and  moisten  it  with  sufficient  broth  to  cover  it. 
Now  put  on  the  cover,  let  it  cook  slowly  until  thoroughly  cooked, 
and  then  drain  it  in  a  colander. 

While  the  above  is  cooking,  butter  a  large  Timbal  mould,  and 
decorate  the  sides  and  bottom  with  the  pieces  of  turnips  and  car-- 
rots, placing  them  side  by  side,  alternating  the  colors,  and  arrang- 
ing them  in  some  nice  design.  Put  the  mould  in  a  cool  place  to 
allow  the  butter  to  harden  and  keep  the  vegetables  in  their  proper 
positions.  When  the  'mould  is  prepared,  put  the  drained  cabbage 
in  a  napkin,  and  press  out  all  of  the  moisture;  cut  the  bacon  and 
sausage  in  slices,  and  carve  the  partridge  or  quails.  Put  a  layer  of 
the  cabbage  on  the  bottom  and  around  the  sides.  Now  put  a  layer 
of  bacon  on  top  of  the  cabbage,  then  a  layer  of  sausage,  and  then 
a  layer  of  partridge  or  quail,  and  continue  doing  this  until  the 
mould  is  full,  having  a  layer  of  cabbage  on  the  top.  Put  a  buttered 
paper  cover  over  it.  Now  place  the  mould  in  a  saucepan  in  which 
there  is  sufficient  water  to  come  half  way  up  to  the  top  of  the 
mould.  (Be  careful  not  to  get  any  water  in  the  mould.)  Set  it  in 
a  moderate  oven  to  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Ten  minutes'  before  serving,  put  a  napkin  on  a  saucepan-cover 
and  place  the  -mould  on  it  with  the  top  down  so  that  the  moisture 
will  drain  off.  When  ready  to  serve  place  the  mould  on  a  dish  and 
carefully  remove  the  mould  that  surrounds  the  vegetables.  Then 
pour  over  it  the  sauce  with  the  essence  of  vegetables. 

NOTE.— This  Chartreuse  can  be  prepared  in  various  ways  as  will  be  explained  under  the  proper 
headings.  Squabs,  breast  of  veal,  wild  ducks,  larks,  teal  ducks,  tenderloins  of  veal  and  fish  can  be 
used  instead  of  partridges  or  quails.  It  is  customary  by  many  to  put  the  birds  in  the  moulds  whole, 
but  it  is  best  to  cut  them  up  beforehand  as  they  can  then  be  served  properly.  The  cabbage  can  be 
replaced  by  braised  lettuce  and  the  birds  can  be  roasted,  then  cut  in  pieces  and  arranged  accordingly. 
•Chartreuse  is  sometimes  ornamented  with  green  peas,  asparagus  tops  and  string  beans  by  inexper- 
ienced cooks.  But  this  should  not  be  done,  as  the  steam  will  change  the  color  of  these  vegetables 
and  when  they  are  removed  from  the  mould  thay  will  be  unrecognizable  and  their  beautiful  effect 
•will  be  spoilt. 

TIMBALS  OF   EGG  PLANT,    MACKAY  STYLE. 

No.  1676. — Peel  half  a  dozen  small  Egg  plants  and  cut  them 
lengthwise  in  six  pieces.  Trim  each  piece  so  as  to  have  them  all 
alike,  put  them  in  a  bowl  and  season  them  with  salt.  Then  cover 
them  and  one  hour  later  drain  off  the  water  and  dry  them  on  a 
napkin.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  flat  saucepan,  and  when  it  is 
melted  add  the  Egg  plant,  fry  it  lightly  and  then  drain  it  on  a 
napkin.  When  it  is  cold  arrange  it  in  a  buttered  Timbal  mould  so 
as  to  cover  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  mould.  Have  the  following 
preparation  ready  to  put  with  this :  Peel  two  Egg  plants,  cut  them 
in  slices,  flour  them  and  fry  them  lightly  in  clarified  butter  on  both 
sides;  then  drain  them  on  a  napkin.  Cut  two  braised  fillets  of 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OP  TASTE.  .       389 

mutton  in  very  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  and  add  four 
spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  and  two  of  fresh  bread  crumbs. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  add  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs. 
Mix  the  whole  well  together,  then  put  a  layer  of  this  stuffing  in  the 
mould  and  then  a  layer  of  the  fried  Egg  plant,  continuing  in  this 
way  until  the  mould  is  filled.  Cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper  cover 
and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour.  When  ready  for 
use  turn  the  mould  on  to  the  dish,  remove  it  carefully  and  glaze  the 
Timbal  with  a  reduced  Madeira  wine  sauce.  Serve  a  brown  Italian 
sauce  separate. 

TIMBAL   OF   SAUERKRAUT,    GERMAN  STYLE. 

No.  1677. — Cook  one  pound  of  sauerkraut  with  half  a  pound  of 
parboiled  lean  salt  pork  and,  when  they  are  three-quarters  done, 
drain  them  in  a  colander  and  allow  them  to  get  cold. 

Prepare  a  Timbal  mould  and  line  it  with  a  pats'  paste.  Put  a 
layer  of  sausage  meat  mixed  with  fine  herbs,  in  the  bottom;  then 
put  a  layer  of  sauerkraut  on  that  with  a  few  thin  slices  of  the  above 
pork  and  some  slices  of  fresh  fillet  of  pork  over  it.  Continue  doing 
this  until  the  mould  is  full.  Over  this  put  a  layer  of  pate  paste  to 
close  the  top  tightly  and  place  a  buttered  paper  cover  over  it.  Set 
the  mould  in  a  moderate  oven  to  bake  slowly  for  one  hour  and  a 
half.  Then  remove  the  paper  cover,  turn  the  Timbal  over  on  a  dish 
and  remove  the  mould.  Make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  Timbal 
and  put  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine  sauce. 

SMALL  VEGETABLE  PATES,    FRENCH  STYLE. 

No.  1678. — Cut  one  onion  in  small  pieces  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
square,  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Fry  it 
lightly,  and  then  add  one  carrot  and  one  turnip  cut  in  small  square 
pieces,  the  white  part  of  a  stalk  of  celery,  half  of  a  parsnip,  and  a 
little  cabbage  cut  in  fine  shreds.  Fry  this  mixture  lightly  for  a  few 
minutes,  not  letting  it  get  browned.  Then  season  it  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  moisten  it  with  just  enough  broth  to 
cook  it.  Let  it  cook  until  the  moisture  is  reduced  to  a  glaze,  and 
then  add  a  soup-spoonful  of  reduced  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce, 
and  some  finely-chopped  parsley.  Then  set  it  aside  to  get  cold. 

Now  roll  out  some  puff  paste  on  the  table  as  you  would  do  when 
making  pies,  and  with  a  three-inch  round  granulated  cutter  cut  out 
some  pieces.  Wet  the  border  of  each,  put  some  of  the  above  stuff- 
ing in  the  center,  and  then  place  one  of  the  round  pieces  of  puff 
paste  on  top  to  cover  each  one.  Press  the  edges  close  together, 
and  put  them  on  a  buttered  and  floured  pan.  Now  baste  them  with 


390  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

the   yolks  of  eggs,    diluted  with   water,  and  bake  them  in   a   hot 
oven.     Serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

SMALL  VEGETABLE   PATES,    AMERICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1679. — Cut  equal  quantities  of  onions,  carrots,  celery  and 
cabbage,  in  small  square  pieces.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  moisten  them  with 
enough  broth  to  cook  them,  and  let  them  cook  until  the  broth  is 
reduced  to  a  glaze.  Now  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a 
pinch  of  sugar,  and  add  some  reduced  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce, 
and  some  cooked  asparagus  tops,  or  green  peas,  that  have  been 
cooked  separately  (or  any  kind  of  vegetable  that  is  in  season). 
Mix  the  whole  well  together,  add  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley,  and 
then  set  it  aside  to  get  cold. 

Make  a  pate  paste,  or  use  the  trimmings  of  some  puff  paste.  Koll 
out  the  paste,  and  with  a  three-inch  oblong  granulated  cutter  cut 
out  some  pieces.  Wet  the  border  of  each  and  put  some  of  the  above 
stuffing  in  the  center,  and  then  place  one  of  the  oblong  pieces  of 
paste  on  top  to  covereach  one.  Press  the  edges  close  together  and 
put  them  on  a  buttered  and  floured  pan.  Now  baste  them  with  the 
yolks  of  eggs  diluted  with  water,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven. 
Serve  them  hot  on  a  napkin. 

SMALL   VEGETABLE  CRUSTS,    MACEDOINE   STYLE. 

No.  1680. — Butter  and  flour  one  dozen  small  Timbal  moulds  that 
are  a  little  larger  at  the  top  than  at  the  bottom.  Now  roll  out  a 
pate^paste,  line  the  moulds  with  it,  and  fill  them  with  flour.  Cover 
them  with  a  layer  of  paste,  make  a  nice  border  around  the  top  of 
each,  and  baste  them  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  diluted  with  a  few 
drops  of  water.  Now  bake  them  in  an  oven  and,  when  they  are 
cooked,  cut  out  the  covers  without  injuring  the  borders.  Remove 
the  flour,  and  baste  the  inside  and  outside  of  the  crusts  with  the 
yolks  of  eggs.  Then  set  them  in  a  moderate  oven  to  dry.  Garnish 
the  crusts  with  a  Macedoine  of  Vegetables,  such  as  peas,  beans, 
asparagus-tops  and  carrots,  each  being  cooked  separately.  The 
crusts  can  be  filled  with  these  vegetables,  mixed  or  singly.  Add  to 
them,  before  filling,  a  reduced  Allemande  or  Cream  sauce. 

VEGETABLE  BREAD. 

No.  1681. — This  is  made  with  any  kind  of  vegetable  purees. 
When  the  puree  is  cooked,  it  should  be  made  firmer  than  when 
used  as  a  garniture.  The  yolks  of  raw  eggs  must  be  added  when 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  391 

the  puree  is  cold.  Purees  that  are  thin  will  require  more  eggs  than 
those  that  are  thick ;  and  a  reduced  Cream  sauce  may  also  be  added 
to  make  them  of  the  required  consistency. 

Put  the  puree  in  small  buttered  moulds,  poach  them,  and  serve 
with  either  Cream,  Allemande  or  Espagnole  sauce. 

NOTE.— After  they  are  cooked  and  become  cold,  they  may  be  cut  into  a  variety  of  shapes,  and  used 
-as  a  garniture  for  soups.  They  may  also  be  cut  in  slices  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then  breaded, 
And  fried,  to  be  used  as  a  garniture. 

MACEDOINE   OF   VEGETABLES,    SPANISH   STYLE. 

No.  1682. — Put  two  finely  sliced  white  onions  in  a  saucepan  with 
four  spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil  and  fry  them  lightly.  Then  add  four 
sliced  bell  peppers  and,  after  they  have  simmered  for  a  few  minutes, 
add  six  red  tomatoes  that  have  been  peeled  and  cut  in  quarters,  and 
•one  egg  plant  that  has  been  peeled  and  cut  in  small  slices.  L§t 
them  cook  until  the  moisture  is  reduced  and  then  add  one  handful 
of  boiled  string  beans  cut  in  small  pieces.  Season  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper.  Now  dish  them  up  in  a  vegetable 
border  and  garnish  them  with  plain  boiled  okra. 

MACEDOINE   OF  VEGETABLES,    MEXICAN   STYLE. 

No.  1683. — Prepare  the  following  vegetables,  viz.:  Two  dozen 
artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  quarters  and  an  equal  quantity  each  of 
green  peas,  shelled  beans,  string  beans  and  asparagus  tops,  four 
bell -peppers  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  four  heads  of  lettuce  that  have 
been  trimmed  and  parboiled  for  two  minutes. 

Put  one  large  onion,  chopped  finely,  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter.  Fry  it  lightly  and  then  add  six  ounces  of  finely-chopped 
lean  raw  ham.  Let  it  cook  for  ten  minutes  and  then  sprinkle  over 
it  two  soup-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Let  it  cook  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  add  three  pints  of  broth.  Stir  it  well  until  it  boils  and 
then  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  sprig  of  thyme 
and  one  bay  leaf.  When  it  boils  slowly  add  the  above  vege- 
tables, season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  the  saucepan  and 
let  them  cook  until  tender.  Then  remove  the  faggot  and  dish 
up  the  vegetables,  being  careful  not  to  break  or  mash  them.  Reduce 
the  sauce  with  some  essence  of  truffles,  pour  it  over  the  vegetables 
and  garnish  with  small  pieces  of  toasted  bread. 

NOTE. — This  garniture  makes  a  nice  effect  when  dished  up  in  a  vegetable  border. 
MACEDOINE   OF    VEGETABLES,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  1684. — Wash  and  scrape  two  dozen  young  carrots  and  cut 
them  in  quarters.  Parboil  them  for  five  minutes,  then  drain  them 


392  BARBER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Toss  them  over 
the  fire  a  few  minutes,  then  moisten  them  with  broth,  and  when 
nearly  cooked,  add  one  quart  of  green  peas,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley 
garnished  with  a  sprig  of  thyme.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a 
pinch  of  sugar,  and  cover  the  pan.  When  the  peas  are  cooked  take 
out  the  faggot,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  glassful  of  cream,  and 
toss  it  well  over,  off  of  the  fire,  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Then 
serve  it  in  a  vegetable  border. 

MACEDOINE   OF  VEGETABLES,   AMERICAN  STYLE. 

No.  1685. — Chop  one  onion  finely,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  fry  it  lightly.  Now  prepare  two  dozen  young 
red  carrots,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  prepare  the  same  quantity  of 
mixed  beets,  parsnips,  celeriac,  and  turnips  cut  in  halves  and 
nicely  trimmed.  Parboil  each  kind  separately  for  a  few  minutes, 
drain  them  and  then  put  them  in  the  saucepan  with  just  enough 
broth  to  cook  them.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them 
cook  slowly.  When  done,  dish  them  up  carefully. 

Prepare  separately,  one  dozen  small  white  glazed  onions,  and  add 
them  to  the  above.  Now  reduce  the  gravy,  add  to  it  a  teaspoonful 
of  mustard,  and  pour  it  over  the  vegetables. 

LARGE  MACEDOINE  GARNITURE. 

No.  1686. — This  garniture  can  be  made  of  almost  any  kinds  of 
vegetables  that  are  young  and  tender.  Five  or  six  kinds  should  be 
used,  having  them  of  varied  colors  if  possible.  The  kinds  princi- 
pally used  are  carrots,  artichoke-bottoms,  turnips,  green  peas, 
string  beans,  lima  beans,  cucumbers,  Brussels  sprouts,  cauliflower, 
brocoli,  small  onions  and  mushrooms.  The  carrots  and  turnips  are 
cut  in  any  kind  of  fancy  shapes,  parboiled  and  then  glazed.  The 
cucumbers  are  scalloped  and  tossed  in  butter.  The  string  beans  are 
cut  in  diamond  shape,  about  an  inch  long,  and  boiled  in  lightly 
salted  water  and  then  immersed  in  cold  water,  so  they  will  retain 
their  green  color.  Brussels  sprouts  and  peas  must  be  boiled  and 
treated  in  the  same  manner.  The  flower  buds  only  of  cauliflowers 
and  brocoli  are  used  and  must  be  kept  in  small  bunches.  The 
onions  are  parboiled  and  glazed.  The  mushrooms  must  be  kept 
white  and  the  tops  cut  in  crescent  shapes  to  give  them  a  nice 
appearance.  The  artichoke-bottoms,  when  cooked,  are  cut  in 
quarters.  These  vegetables  are  cooked  separately.  Then  put  them 
together  in  a  flat  saucepan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  add 
a  little  Cream  sauce.  Toss  tbem  gently  over  the  fire. 

NOTE.— This  can  be  served  as  a  vegetable  if  put  in  a  vegetable  border. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  393 

COLD  MACEDOINE  GARNITURE. 

No.  1687. — This  garniture  is  composed  of  the  same  ingredients 
as  in  No.  1686.  The  carrots  and  turnips  are  cut  with  spoon  cutters 
and  are  cooked  in  broth  and  glazed.  The  green  vegetables  are 
boiled  plain  and  kept  green.  The  white  vegetables  are  cooked  and 
kept  white.  They  must  all  be  cooked  separately  and  then  drained 
on  a  napkin.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar.  When 
they  are  dry,  dip  them  in  Aspic  jelly.  When  cold  trim  them  nicely. 
Capers  and  gherkins  may  be  added,  and  they  are  then  dressed  neatly, 
in  bunches,  alternating  the  colors,  and  garnished  with  Aspic  jelly 

SMALL  MACEDOINE  GARNITURE. 

No.  1688. — This  can  be  made  with  all  kinds  of  vegetables.  Use 
about  five  kinds  at  a  time,  varying  them  according  to  their  color. 

Prepare  equal  quantities  of  the  following  vegetables :  Green  peas, 
string, beans,  cut  in  diamond  shape,  artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  small 
pieces,  asparagus  tops,  and  flageolet  beans.  Cook  each  kind  sepa- 
rately, and  keep  them  as  green  as  possible.  Also  prepare  equal 
quantities  of  carrots  and  turnips,  cut  with  a  spoon  cutter,  celery, 
flower-buds  of  cauliflower,  and  glazed  cucumbers.  Cook  each  of 
these  separately,  and  then  mix  them  all  together  in  a  saucepan, 
adding  some  sliced  mushrooms.  Then  add  some  Cream  sauce. 

LARGE   GARNITURE,    PEASANT  STYLE. 

No.  1689. — For  this  Garniture  use  young  carrots  cut  in  halves  and 
nicely  trimmed,  or  if  old  ones  are  used,  slice  them  in  pieces  one 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Parboil  them,  and  then  cook  them  in 
broth  to  glaze  them.  Add  some  cucumbers  cut  in  scollops  and 
glazed,  and  some  broiled  sausages  cut  in  pieces  about  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  long.  Dress  the  Garniture  in  bunches. 

LARGE  GARNITURE,  FARMER  STYLE. 

No.  1690. — This  Garniture  is  composed  of  carrots,  potatoes,  cab- 
bage, lettuce,  and  artichokes.  The  carrots  and  potatoes  are  scooped 
out  with  a  spoon-cutter.  The  carrots  are  boiled  and  glazed,  while 
the  potatoes  are  boiled  and  then  tossed  in  butter.  The  cabbage  is 
braised,  and  the  lettuce  stuffed.  The  artichoke  bottoms  are  cut 
in  halves.  The  Garniture  is  dressed  in  bunches,  with  the  colors 
alternating. 

LARGE  GARNITURE,  JARDINIERE. 

No.  1691. — This  Garniture  consists  of  carrots,  turnips,  turnip- 
rooted  celery,  cucumbers,  small  onions,  and  artichoke  bottoms-, 


•394  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

each  kind  being  cooked  separately  and  glazed;  also  the  flower  buds 
of  cauliflower,  or  brocoli  parboiled  in  lightly  salted  water;  also 
green  peas,  string  beans  and  Brussels  sprouts,  which  must  be  boiled 
in  lightly  salted  water,  and  then  immersed  in  cold  water,  so  the 
green  color  will  be  retained.  They  must  then  be  tossed  in  a  pan 
over  the  fire  wijh  a  piece  of  butter  until  thoroughly  warmed- 
Then  dress  them  in  bands,  alternating  the  colors. 

SMALL   GARNITURE,    JARDINIERE. 

No.  1692. — This  Garniture  consists  of  carrots,  turnips,  string 
beans,  flageolet  beans,  and  asparagus  tops.  The  carrots  and  turnips 
are  cut  in  pieces  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  long,  with  a  column 
cutter.  They  are  boiled  and  then  cooked  in  broth  and  glazed.  The 
other  vegetables  are  boiled  plain,  then  drained  and  mixed  together 
in  equal  quantities.  Then  add  some  Allemande  or  Espagnole  sauce, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar. 

NOTE. — This  Garniture  can  be  varied  according  to  the  season  of  the  vegetables,  one  kind  being 
•substituted  for  another. 

COLD   GARNITURE,    JARDINIERE. 

No.  1693. — This  Garniture  is  composed  of  the  flower  buds  of 
•cauliflower,  artichoke  bottoms,  mushrooms,  large  asparagus  tops, 
string-beans,  and  young  carrots.  They  are  all  cooked  separately, 
and  then  drained.  Season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar, 
and  then  glaze  them  with  Aspic  jelly.  Dress  them  in  bunches, 
alternating  the  colors.  The  tops  of  the  mushrooms  should  be 
grooved  in  crescent  shapes  to  give  them  a  nice  appearance. 

COLD   GARNITURE,    FLORAL   STYLE. 

No.  1694. — This  garniture  consists  of  nice  large  asparagus  tops, 
mushrooms,  truffles,  artichoke-bottoms,  young  carrots  and  tomatoes. 
The  asparagus  tops  are  cut  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long  and  kept 
in  bunches.  The  mushroom  heads  are  cut  in  crescent  shapes. 
The  artichoke-bottoms  are  left  whole.  The  carrots  are  nicely  trim- 
med. All  of  these  vegetables  are  cooked  separately,  then  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  kept  separate.  Then  drain 
them  and  mask  them  with  a  Chaufroix  sauce,  changing  the  color  of 
the  sauce  for  each  vegetable  as  it  makes  a  finer  effect.  Dress  them 
in  bunches,  alternating  the  colors. 

LARGE  GARNITURE,  PROVINCIAL  STYLE. 

No.  1695. — This  garniture  consists  of  stuffed  tomatoes  and  stuffed 
green  peppers,  stuffed  artichokes  and  stuffed  mushrooms.  Dress 
them  and  glaze  them  with  a  Madeira  wine  sauce. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  395 

ESSENCE   OF   VEGETABLES. 

No.  1696. — Put  the  following  in  a  saucepan:  One  shin  of  beef, 
one  of  veal,  one  hen,  six  carrots,  six  onions  and  two  turnips.  Pour 
two  gallons  of  cold  water  over  them  and,  when  it  boils,  skim  it 
well.  Then  add  two  heads  of  celery,  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished 
with  two  heads  of  lettuce,  two  leeks,  some  whole  peppers  and  a  few 
cloves.  Now  let  it  cook  slowly  for  four  hours,  then  strain  it  through 
a  towel  and  reduce  it  on  the  fire  to  half  of  its  quantity. 

FEYING   BATTEK   FOR   VEGETABLES. 

No.  1697. — Put  two  pounds  of  sifted  flour  in  an  earthen  bowl, 
make  a  hollow  in  the  centre,  and  add  four  ounces  of  melted  butter 
and  water  enough  to  make  a  light  batter.  Mix  it  well  and  see  that 
no  lumps  form,  having  it  nice  and  smooth,  and  add  a  little  salt. 
This  batter  should  be  made  one  hour  before  it  is  used.  When  ready 
to  use  it,  beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  into  a  stiff  froth,  and  add 
them  to  the  batter,  mixing  the  whole  gently. 

VEGETABLE   SALADS. 

No.  1698. — All  vegetables  that  can  be  eaten  raw  or  cooked  can  be 
used  in  salads.  They  are  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vine- 
gar, and  are  generally  eaten  cold.  Various  salad  dressings  and 
herbs  are  sometimes  used  in  their  preparation.  Salads  should  vary 
according  to  the  season  of  the  vegetables.  Care  should  be  taken 
not  to  bruise 'any  of  the  vegetables  used  in  a  salad.  Green  salads 
make  a  refreshing  breakfast  dish.  Endives  and  dandelion  should 
be  dressed  with  a  plain  dressing  and  a  piece  of  bread  rubbed  with 
garlic  should  always  be  added.  The  corn-salad  or  lamb-lettuce 
makes  a  delicious  salad,  dressed  with  pickled  beets.  A  mustard 
dressing  should  be  added  to  celery,  and  a  few  drops  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce  also,  to  heighten  the  flavor  if  desired.  Water-cress 
should  be  served  fresh  and  plain.  It  is  excellent  with  roasted  or 
broiled  fowl.  Lettuce  and  cos  lettuce  are  two  popular  salads.  Do 
not  dress  it  until  ready  to  serve.  Fine  herbs  may  be  added,  and 
also  a  garniture  of  hard-boiled  eggs.  Mixed  vegetable  salads  are 
best  in  spring,  when  the  vegetables  are  young  and  tender.  In  mix- 
ing them  see  that  they  harmonize  in  taste  and  color.  The  best 
vegetables  for  salads  are  green  and  white  beans,  new  or  pickled 
beets,  potatoes,  small  onions,  carrots,  artichoke  bottoms,  asparagus 
tops,  green  peas,  and  gherkins.  Occasionally  some  anchovies, 
pickled  herrings,  capers,  olives,  truffles,  and  yolks  of  eggs  may  be 
added.  Be  very  careful  in  seasoning  salads.  Always  season  with 


396  HABDEE'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

the  oil  first,  because  if  too  much  vinegar  is  used  it  will  settle  in  the 
bottom  of  the  salad  bow],  instead  of  mixing  with  the  oil  properly. 
Never  try  to  mix  the  salt  with  the  vinegar.  It  is  best  to  sprinkle 
it  over  the  salad  with  the  pepper,  or  it  can  be  mixed  with  the  oil. 
Green  salads  are  used  at  breakfast  or  dinner,  while  the  salads  that 
are  made  of  fowl  or  fish  are  best  at  a  luncheon,  supper,  or  collation. 
Cucumbers  and  tomatoes  can  be  served  with  the  fish. 

Recipes  for  making  the  various  kinds  of  sauces  for  salads  will  be 
found  in  the  "  Book  on  Sauces." 

<- 

COMPOUND   VEGETABLE  SALAD. 

> 

No.  1699. — This  salad  is  composed  of  Booked  green  peas,  string 
beans,  cut  in  pieces  one  inch  long,  sliced  potatoes  and  white  beans. 
Each  kind  is  dressed  separate  and  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  oil 
and  vinegar.  Make  a  dressing  for  it  of  six  spoonfuls  of  oil  and 
four  of  wine  vinegar,  mixed  thoroughly,  with  the  addition  of  a 
little  salt  and  pepper.  Then  add  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley  and 
burnet,  and  pour  it  over  the  salad.  Garnish  it  with  some  hearts  of 
lettuce,  hard  boiled  eggs  and  fillet  of  anchovies. 

VEGETABLE   SALAD,    AMERICAN  STYLE. 

No.  1700. — Slice  finely  equal  quantities  of  cooked  artichoke 
bottoms,  celery,  celeriac,  potatoes,  carrots  and  beets,  and  have  the 
pieces  about  equal  in  size.  Put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  and  add  some 
shelled  beans — white  or  green.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and 
vinegar,  mix  them  gently  together,  then  cover  the  bowl  and  set  it  in 
a  cool  place  to  allow  the  salad  to  macerate  for  one  hour.  When  it 
is  ready  to  serve  add  a  little  more  oil  and  vinegar,  and  dress  it  in  a 
salad  bowl.  Garnish  properly. 

MACEDOINE   VEGETABLE   SALAD. 

No.  1701. — Cook  the  vegetables  as  described  in  Macedoine  Gar- 
niture, No.  1688,  and  cut  them  in  any  shapes  desired,  with  fancy 
cutters.  When  they  are  cooked,  keep  each  kind  separate,  drain 
them  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar.  When  ready 
to  serve  the  salad,  the  vegetables  are  mixed  and  nicely  dressed  in  a 
salad  bowl  with  a  Ravigote  or  Mayonnaise  sauce.  For  a  large  salad 
it  is  best  to  dress  each  vegatable  in  bunches,  alternating  them,  and, 
when  they  are  nicely  decorated,  the  effect  is  pleasing.  This  salad  is. 
generally  composed  of  the  following  vegetables  in  equal  quantities, 
but  they  can  be  varied,  according  to  the  season:  Green  peas,  aspar- 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  397 

agus-tops,   beans,   beets,  carrots,   turnips,   artichoke-bottoms,  and 
turnip-rooted  celery. 

NOTE. — The  carrots  and  turnips  should  be  parboiled,  then  immersed  in  cold  water  and  cooked. 
Use  only  young  and  sweetly  flavored  turnips;  if  they  are  old  or  strongly  flavored,  they  will  spoil  the 
salad. 

DIPLOMATIC   SALAD. 

No.  1702. — Cut  the  tender  parts  of  two  stalks  of  celery  in  small 
strips  about  two  inches  long.  Put  them  in  a  bowl,  add  three  or 
four  truffles  cut  in  short  Juliennes,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
oil  and  vinegar.  Then  cover  the  bowl  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place  for 
half  an  hour.  Rub  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  put  them  in  a  bowl  that  has  been  rubbed  with  a  clove 
of  garlic.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  work  them  well 
together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  dilute  it  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Now  drain  the  celery  and  truffles  and 
put  them  in  a  salad  bowl.  Add  the  above  dressing  and  a  little  finely- 
chopped  chives  and  parsley,  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  then 
arrange  it  properly. 

VEGETABLE   SALAD,    ITALIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1703. — Prepare  some  turnips  and  carrots,  and  with  a  column 
cutter  the  size  of  a  twenty-five  cent  piece,  cut  out  as  many  pieces  as 
are  desired.  Cook  them  in  some  lightly  salted  water,  and  when  they 
are  cold  slice  them  finely  in  pieces  of  even  size.  Add  to  them  equal 
quantities  of  boiled  potatoes  and  pickled  beets,  cut  in  the  same 
manner.  Put  them  in  a  bowl,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vin- 
egar, and  add  a  little  Eavigote  sauce.  Mix  them  gently  together, 
arrange  them  in  a  salad  bowl,  and  garnish  with  hard-boiled  eggs 
cut  in  quarters. 

VEGETABLE   SALAD,   PARISIAN   STYLE. 

No.  1704. — Eub  the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  through  a  fine 
sieve,  put  them  in  a  bowl,  and  add  one  teaspoonful  of  Anchovy 
paste,  and  one  of  French  mustard.  Mix  them  well  together  with  a 
wooden  spoon  while  diluting  it  slowly  with  oil  and  vinegar. 

Slice  the  following  vegetables  nicely,  and  put  them  in  a  bowl: 
One  beet,  one  celeriac  root,  two  potatoes,  and  two  pickles.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  above  dressing  with  a  little  finely- 
cut  tarragon  and  rampion.  Mix  the  whole  well  together,  put 
it  in  a  salad  bowl,  arrange  it  properly,  and  garnish  with  the  whites 
and  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  separately  in  small  pieces,  and 
some  capers  and  stuffed  olives. 


398  HAEDEB'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

VEGETABLE  SALAD,  RUSSIAN  STYLE. 

No.  1705. — Cook  some  celery,  or  celeriac,  and  some  potatoes. 
When  they  are  cold,  trim  them  nicely,  slice  them  finely,  and  put 
them  in  a  bowl  with  some  raw  sliced  gherkins,  a  raw  sliced  apple, 
a  few  capers,  and  a  few  boned  Anchovies.  Season  with  pepper, 
salt,  oil  and  vinegar,  add  a  little  grated  horse-radish  and  mustard, 
and  mix  the  whole  gently  together.  Set  it  aside  for  half  an  hour, 
and  then  drain  off  the  moisture  and  dress  it  in  a  salad  bowl  with  a 
Mayonnaise  dressing. 

SAUERKRAUT   SALAD,    GERMAN   STYLE. 

No.  1706. — Parboil  half  a  pound  of  Sauerkraut  for  twenty  min- 
utes; then  drain  it  in  a  colander,  and  pour  some  cold  water  over  it 
to  refresh  it.  Then  drain  it  in  a  napkin.  Prepare  an  equal  quantity 
of  red  cabbage,  cut  it  in  fine  shreds,  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  piece  of  butter.  Add  three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  let  it  cook  over 
a  brisk  fire  for  five  minutes,  and  then  drain  it.  Cut  one  large  white 
onion  in  small  pieces  (chopped).  Throw  them  in  boiling  water  for 
one  minute;  then  immerse  them  in  cold  water,  and  drain  them  on  a 
napkin. 

Now  put  the  sauerkraut,  red  cabbage  and  onion  into  a  bowl,  add 
a  soup-spoonful  of  grated  horse-radish,  and  a  little  finely-chopped 
chervil.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar.  Mix  the  whole  well 
together,  arrange  it  properly  in  a  salad  bowl,  and  garnish  with 
olives  and  beets. 

VEGETABLE   SALAD,    CALIFORNIA   STYLE. 

No.  1707. — Slice  one  white  sweet  onion  finely.  Peel  two  cucum- 
bers, cut  them  in  halves  lengthwise,  scoop  out  the  seeds,  and  then 
cut  them  in  fine  slices.  Peel  four  tomatoes,  and  cut  them  in  slices 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  a  layer  of  the  onion  in  a  salad 
bowl,  then  a  layer  of  the  tomato,  and  a  layer  of  cucumbers  on  top, 
sprinkling  each  layer  with  bread  crumbs,  and  seasoning  with  salt, 
pepper,  oil  and  vinegar.  On  top  of  these  three  layers  put  three 
more  layers  exactly  the  same  as  the  first  three.  Cover  the  bowl, 
and  set  it  in  a  cool  place.  Always  make  this  salad  two  hours  before 
serving  it.  Sprinkle  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley  and  chives  over 
it,  and  serve  it  as  it  is. 

MIXED  VEGETABLE  SALAD,  SWEDISH  STYLE. 

No.  1708. — Select  equal  quantities  of  the  following  cooked  vege- 
tables, and  cut  them  nicely  with  a  fancy  cutter :  young  carrots, 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  399^ 

beets  and  potatoes.  Put  them  in  a  bowl,  and  add  some  smoked 
beef-tongue  cut  in  small  thin  slices,  a  boned  and  skinned  pickled 
herring  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  one  apple,  peeled  and  finely  sliced. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  add  a  little  finely- 
chopped  parsley  and  chervil,  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  mustard  dress- 
ing. Mix  them  well  together,  arrange  them  properly  in  a  salad 
bowl,  and  garnish  with  stoned  olives  and  boned  anchovies. 

HOW  TO   PREPARE   MOULDS   WITH  ASPIC  JELLY,  FOR   SALADS. 

No.  1709. — The  salads  following  this  recipe  are  different  from  the 
foregoing,  being  made  in  moulds,  and  dressed  on  stands  or  borders, 
or  on  bread  masked  with  butter  for  a  relief  and  as  a  convenience  in 
garnishing.  They  are  used  principally  at  balls  and  banquets,  and 
when  nicely  executed  they  form  a  handsome  ornament  to  a  table. 
Much  depends  upon  the  proficiency  of  the  party  making  them;  and 
special  care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  Aspic  jelly  clear,  and  not 
too  firm.  In  cold  weather  it  need  not  be  as  solid  as  when  the 
weather  is  warm.  They  may  be  made  in  Charlotte  or  Timbal  moulds, 
if  desired;  but  it  is  best  to  use  the  regular  Salad  moulds  that  are 
made  expressly  for  this  purpose.  They  contain  a  false  mould, 
which  is  inserted  after  the  mould  is  ornamented.  The  space  around 
this  false  mould  is  filled  with  jelly,  and  allowed  to  become  firm. 
Warm  water  is  then  put  in  the  centre  of  the  mould,  so  it  can  be 
removed  easily,  which  leaves  the  center  vacant,  to  be  filled  with  the 
salad.  Then  smooth  off  the  top  evenly,  and  set  the  mould  aside  to- 
get  cold  until  ready  for  use.  Then  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water, 
wipe  it  dry,  and  then  turn  it  out  on  the  dish  it  is  to  be  served  on. 

The  mould  is  prepared,  arranged  and  decorated  as  follows  :  Put 
the  mould  in  a  pan  containing  some  cracked  ice,  and  let  it  get  cold. 
Put  some  cool  Aspic  jelly  in  the  mould,  and  turn  the  mould  around 
constantly  until  it  is  thinly  and  evenly  coated  with  the  jelly  on  the 
sides  and  bottom.  (It  takes  considerable  practice  to  do  this  per- 
fectly.) Drain  your  vegetables,  and  dry  them  well  on  a  napkin. 
Dip  each  piece  separately  in  a  cool  Aspic  jelly,  and  arrange  them 
in  the  bottom  and  around  the  sides  of  the  mould  in  the 'design  that 
you  prefer,  alternating  the  colors.  When  this  is  done,  line  k  with 
another  coating  of  jelly,  set  it  aside  to  get  cold,  and  then  fill  the 
centre  with  the  prepared  salad.  Truffl.es,  capers,  olives  and  the 
whites  of  eggs  can  be  used  to  decorate  the  mould,  instead  of  vege- 
tables, if  desired. 

VEGETABLE   SALAD  WITH  ASPIC  JELLY,    MACEDOINE. 

No.  1710. — This  salad  is  composed  of  cooked  asparagus  tops, 
carrots,  beets,  celeriac,  cauliflower,  green  peas  and  flageolet  beans.. 


400  HABDEB'S  AMEBICAN  COOKEBY. 

Cook  each  kind  separately,  and  when  cold  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
oil  and  vinegar.  Decorate  the  mould  with  Aspic  jelly  and  the  above 
vegetables,  as  in  No.  1709.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  vegetables  in 
a  bowl  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Mayonnaise  dressing  made  with 
Aspic  jelly.  Put  the  salad  in  the  centre  of  the  mould  to  fill  it. 
Smooth  the  top,  and  set  the  mould  aside  to  get  firm.  When  ready 
to  serve,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  then  turn  the  salad  out  on 
the  stand  on  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Garnish  the  base  with  aspar- 
agus tops,  as  in  No.  85,  and  artichoke-bottoms,  as  in  No.  46,  with 
some  hard  boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves,  and  finely-chopped  Aspic 
jelly. 

VEGETABLE   SALAD  WITH  ASPIC  JELLY,   JABDINIERE. 

No.  1711. — Prepare  and  cook  the  vegetables  as  directed  in  No. 
1692.  Drain  them,  keep  each  kind  separate,  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  oil  and  vinegar,  decorate  the  mould  with  Aspic  jelly  and  the 
vegetables,  as  in  No.  1709.  Then  proceed  as  in  No.  1710,  and  gar- 
nish with  a  cold  Jardiniere  as  in  No.  1693. 

VEGETABLE   SALAD  WITH   ASPIC  JELLY,    ITALIAN  STYLE. 

No.  1712. — Cut  out  one  dozen  potatoes  with  a  round  cutter  about 
the  size  of  a  twenty-five  cent  piece,  and  slice  them  finely.  Then 
take  two  pickled  beets  and  cut  and  slice  them  the  same  way.  Put 
them  in  separate  bowls  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  oil  and  vinegar. 
Prepare  the  fillet  of  one  or  two  flounders,  scrape  off  the  skin,  and 
put  them  in  a  buttered  flat  saucepan.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  add  a  little  white  wine.  Then  cook  them,  keeping  them  white, 
and  when  done  put  them  on  a  platter  and  lay  them  aside  to  get  cold. 
When  cold  cut  them  in  scallops,  add  the  same  quantity  of  fillet 
of  boned  Anchovies,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  oil  and  vinegar. 
Decorate  the  mould  with  Aspic  jelly,  capers,  olives,  anchovies 
and  the  whites  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  as  in  No.  1709.  Put  the  floun- 
ders and  anchovies  in  a  bowl  and  add  to  them  double  their  quantity 
of  potatoes  and  beets,  after  they  are  drained.  Also  add  some 
capers  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Mayonnnaise  dressing  made  with 
Aspic  jelly.  Mix  them  gently  together  and  then  fill  the  centre  of 
the  mould.  Smooth  off  the  top  evenly  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place 
until  ready  for  use.  When  dressing  it  garnish  with  hard  boiled 
eggs  and  chopped  Aspic  jelly. 

BEAN  SALAD,    WITH  ASPIC  JELLY,    GEBMAN  STYLE. 

No.  1713. — Boil  two  pounds  of  dry  white  beans,  keep  them  whole 
and  let  them  get  cold  in  their  broth.  Select  enough  of  the  most 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  401 

perfect  beans  to  decorate  a  Charlotte  mould,  splitting  half  of  them 
in  halves  to  give  a  variety  to  the  decoration.  Drain  the  remaining 
beans  in  a  colander,  then  put  them  in  a  bowl,  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  add  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley  or 
chives.  Also  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Mayonnaise  dressing,  made 
with  Aspic  jelly,  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  then  fill  up  the 
centre  of  the  mould.  Smooth  off  the  top  and  set  it  aside  to  get 
firm.  Finish  it  the  same  as  the  other  moulds  are  finished. 


CCXXVI. 


French  VETCH,   OR    TARE.  German 

Vesce.  Wicke. 

No.  1714. — This  is  a  leguminous  plant  having  several  varieties, 
all  of  which,  in  properties  and  habits,  resemble  the  common  pea, 
the  seeds  being  used  for  food.  It  is  not  cultivated  to  any  extent,  as 
it  is  not  prolific.  It  is  cultivated  like  green  peas,  and  is  pre- 
pared for  the  table  in  the  same  manner  as  peas.  It  is  also 
.ground,  mixed  with  corn  or  rye,  and  made  into  bread. 


ARTICLE  CCXXVII. 


WATER-MELON. 

Melon  d'Eau.  Wasser  Melone. 

No.  1715. — The  Water-melon  is  a  tropical  fruit  that  is  largely  and 
extensively  cultivated  in  the  United  States.  The  fruit  is  roundish 
or  oblong,  and  in  color  it  is  green  or  of  variegated  green 
shades.  It  is  much  more  vigorous  than  the  musk-melon,  though 
inferior  to  the  cantaloupe.  Its  abundant  and  cooling  juice  renders 
it  very  refreshing  during  summer.  It  is  less  liable  to  injury  from 
insects  than  an}r  other  variety  of  melon. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1716. — Water-melons  require  a  rich,   though   rather   sandy 
soil  for  their  best  development,  and  thrive  best  in  warm  latitudes, 
26 


402  HARDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

growing  best  in  the  Southern  and  Southwestern  States.  Cultivate- 
exactly  the  same  as  for  musk-melons,  except  that  the  hills  should 
be  just  double  the  distances  apart,  namely,  eight  and  ten  feet. 

GEORGIA   RATTLESNAKE. 

No.  1717. — One  of  the  largest  varieties,  and  stands  shipment  long 
distances  better  than  any  other.  It  is  the  sort  used  at  the  South 
for  northern  shipments.  It  is  a  beautifully  striped  variety,  of  very 
large  size,  with  red  flesh  of  the  finest  flavor. 

CUBAN   QUEEN. 

No.  1718. — One' of  the  largest  melons  known,  often  attaining  up- 
wards of  eighty  pounds  in  weight.  The  vine  is  vigorous,  and  the 
skin  striped,  light  and  dark  green.  The  flesh  is  bright  red,  solid, 
very  crisp  and  sugary. 

CALIFORNIA   OR  IMPROVED   ODELLA. 

No.  1719. — One  of  the  best  sorts  for  shipping  purposes,  as  it  has 
a  tough,  thin  rind,  which  enables  it  to  stand  an  amount  of  hand- 
ling that  would  crack  open  other  varieties.  The  flavor  is  excellent 
and  quite  distinct. 

ORANGE. 

No.  1720. — So  called  from  its  peculiar  rind,  which  separates  from 
the  flesh  when  fully  ripe.  The  flesh  is  red,  tender  and  sweet. 

CITRON  AND   CALIFORNIA   PIE   MELON. 

No.  1721. — These  melons  are  used  in  making  sweetmeats  and 
preserves  by  removing  the  rind  and  seeds,  cutting  the  flesh  in  pieces 
of  equal  size,  then  boiling  them  in  syrup  which  has  been  flavored 
with  ginger,  and  then  proceeding  the  same  as  with  musk-melons 
in  Nos.  922  and  923.  They  ripen  late  in  season  and  will  keep  until 
December.  The  flesh  is  white,  solid,  tough,  seedy,  very  squashy, 
and  unpalatable  in  its  crude  state. 

BLACK   SPANISH. 

No.  1722. — Their  small  vines  enables  them  to  be  grown  closer 
than  any  other  sorts.  They  are  round  in  form,  and  dark-green  in 
color.  The  flesh  is  scarlet,  rich  and  sugary  in  flavor. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF   TASTE.  403 

SCALY   BARK. 

No.  1723. — A  very  popular  variety  in  the  South,  which  will  keep 
in  good  condition  after  pickling  longer  than  any  other  sort.  The 
vines  are  large,  with  coarse  foliage,  the  fruit  large  and  oblong,  and 
the  flesh  red  and  very  tender. 

MOUNTAIN   SWEET. 

No.  1724. — A  large,  long  oval  variety.  The  flesh  is  scarlet  and 
quite  solid  to  the  center,  very  sweet  and  delicious. 

ICE   CREAM. 

No.  1725. — This  is  medium-sized.  The  flesh  is  scarlet  and  very 
sweet.  A  good  variety  for  general  culture. 

FERRY'S  PEERLESS. 

No.  1726. — The  best  melon  for  general  use,  particularly  in  the 
North.  The  vine  is  vigorous,  hardy  and  productive.  The  fruit  is 
medium,  oval,  and  finely  mottled  with  light  and  dark-green,  some- 
what in  stripes.  The  rind  is  thin,  and  the  flesh  bright  scarlet,  solid 
to  the  centre,  crisp,  nutty,  and  sweet. 

EARLY  JERSEY. 

No.  1727. — One  of  the  earliest  varieties,  above  the  medium  size, 
oval  round,  and  light-green  in  color.  The  flesh  is  scarlet,  solid, 
finely  grained,  very  sweet  and  juicy. 

HOW  TO   SERVE   MELONS. 

No.  1728. — Water-melons  are  served  as  a  relish,  or  for  dessert, 
and  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  place  for  some  time  before 
serving.  Cut  a  piece  from  each  end,  and  then  cut  the  melon  in  a 
zig-zag  shape  in  the  centre,  which  will  divide  the  melon  in  half, 
and  set  each  half  on  a  dish  with  a  napkin.  Place  them  on  the  table, 
and  when  ready  to  use,  cut  them  in  slices. 

NOTE. — Cut  a  plug  out  of  the  melon,  pour  a  glass  of  brandy  inside,  replace  the  plug,  keep  the 
melon  in  a  cool  place,  and  occasionally  turn  it.  In  twenty-four  hours  the  brandy  will  be  absorbed, 
and  the  melon  ready  to  serve.  This  makes  a  delicious  change  from  the  ordinary  way  of  eating 
melons. 


404  HAEDEK'S  AMEEICAN  COOKERY. 


ARTICLE  ccxxvill. 


French  WHEAT.  German 

Frome.nl.  Weitzen. 

No.  1729. — Wheat  is  a  plant  of  the  genus  Triticum.  The  seed  of 
this  plant  furnishes  a  white  flour  for  bread  and,  next  to  rice,  is  the 
grain  most  generally  used  by  the  human  race.  The  varieties  are 
numerous,  comprising  the  Summer  and  Winter  Wheat,  the  Bearded 
Wheat,  the  White  Wheat  and  the  Bald  Wheat.  The  Summer  and 
Winter  Wheat  furnishes  most  of  the  grain  that  is  used  for  food. 

WINTER  WHEAT. 

MICHIGAN   BRONZE   OR  MEDITERRANEAN   HYBRID. 

No*.  1730. — This  is  a  cross  between  the  old  Diehl  and  the  Ked 
Mediterranean,  having  the  fine  flavoring  quality  and  bearded  head  of 
the  latter  and  the  close  compact  head  of  the  former.  It  is  a  vigor- 
ous grower  and  is  well  adapted  to  light  soil.  The  heads  are  some- 
what club-shaped,  short,  but  very  compact,  and  are  squarely  filled 
out  at  both  ends,  containing  about  sixteen  breasts  of  from  three  to 
four  kernels  each.  The  berry  is  of  a  bright  amber  color,  of  medium 
size  and  very  handsome. 

VALLEY. 

No.  1731. — This  variety  originated  in  Ohio  and  yields  enormously, 
but  needs  rich  ground  and  good  cultivation.  The  heads  are  bearded, 
long  and  loose,  and  have  a  peculiarly  rough  and  ragged  appearance. 
They  contain  from  sixteen  to  twenty  breasts,  having  three  or  four 
kernels  each.  The  berry  is  long  and  hard,  and  of  an  amber  color. 

MARTIN'S  AMBER. 

No.  1732. — A  hybrid  variety  that  originated  in  the  eastern  part 
of  Pennsylvania.  While  young,  the  plants  lie  spread  out  over  the 
ground,  affording  a  good  protection  to  their  own  roots.  The  straw 
is  tall  and  very  stiff,  standing  up  better  than  most  varieties.  The 
leaves  are  dark  green  and  quite  free  from  rust.  It  has  a  large, 
bald,  smooth,  well-filled  head,  containing  from  sixteen  to  eighteen 
breasts,  and  is  rather  late  in  ripening.  The  berry  is  of  a  light 
amber  color,  good  size  and  very  plump  and  handsome.  It  has  a 
very  thin  hull  and  makes  but  little  bran;  however  it  yields  a  large 
return  of  flour  of  the  very  best  quality. 


THE  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  TASTE.  405 

DEMOCRAT. 

No.  1733. — A  variety  that  originated  in  Pennsylvania  and  is  be- 
coming very  popular  in  Canada.  It  is  very  early.  The  heads  are 
bearded  and  compact,  with  white  chaff.  The  berry  is  of  a  very  light 
amber  color  and  is  superior  for  milling  qualities. 

FULTZ. 

No.  1734. — Although  not  as  showy  in  the  field  as  the  Clawson, 
the  Fultz  will  generally  yield  quite  as  much  grain — that  is  of  a  better 
milling  quality.  It  is  much  esteemed  in  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio, 
and  is  becoming  popular  elsewhere.  The  straw  stands  up  well. 
The  leaves  are  large,  of  a  dark  green  color  and  free  from  rust.  It 
has  smooth,  medium-sized,  compact  heads,  containing  from  sixteen 
to  eighteen  breasts  of  two  and  three  kernels  each.  The  berry  is  of 
a  dull  amber  color,  medium  in  size  and  long. 

CLAWSON. 

No.  1735. — A  smooth  white  Wheat,  with  red  chaff.  It  is  a  supe- 
rior variety. 

BED   MEDITERRANEAN. 

No.  1736. — This  is  the  imported  variety  fully  acclimated.  The 
heads  are  bearded  and  well  filled.  It  succeeds  well  in  nearly  all 
localities,  and  ripens  early. 

WINTER  PEARL. 

No.  1737. — The  heads  are  beardless,  regular  and  very  handsome, 
about  five  and  a  half  inches  long,  with  from  eighteen  to  twenty 
breasts  of  four  grains  each.  The  kernels  are  about  the  size  of  the 
Clawson,  hard,  plump,  and  of  a  light  amber  color.  It  produces 
abundantly  in  good  wheat  fields. 

• 

SPRING  WHEAT. 

THE  INVINCIBLE. 

No.  1738. — This  is  a  beardless  variety  of  remarkably  robust  and 
vigorous  growth.  The  straw  is  strong,  stiff,  well  glazed  and  healthy. 
The  heads  are  from  four  to  five  inches  long,  compact  and  well  filled. 
The  berry  is  of  a  light  amber  color,  plump,  hard  and  very  heavy. 
It  is  wonderfully  prolific.  The  grains  ripen  quickly  and  evenly. 


406  HARDER' s  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

•Care  should  therefore  be  taken  not  to  let  it  get  over-ripe  before 
harvesting. 

ADAMANT   WHEAT. 

No.  1739. — This  is  one  of  the  hardiest  and  most  flinty  varieties 
in  cultivation,  and  is  very  productive  and  vigorous.  It  is  a  beard- 
less, white-chaff'  variety,  with  long  narrow  heads,  closely  set  with 
medium  sized  amber-colored  kernels,  which  produce  flour  of  a  very 
superior  quality.  It  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  sorts  for  cultiva- 
tion in  the  Northwest,  Colorado  and  the  Pacific  Coast,  where  hard 
wheat  is  the  favorite  sort. 

GREEN   MOUNTAIN   WHEAT. 

No.  1740. — A  beardless  variety  much  cultivated  in  Vermont.  The 
straw  is  of  a  light  yellow  color,  very  strong,  and  free  from  rust. 
The  heads  average  five  inches  in  length,  and  are  somewhat  tapering. 
The  kernels  are  white,  large,  plump,  very  hardy  and  productive. 

NOTE.— For  any  other  Wheat  or  cereal,  see  the  Articles  on  Barley,  Buckwheat,  Corn,  etc. 

WHEAT    BROTH. 

No.  1741.  —  Soak  six  ounces  of  Wheat  in  water  over  night.  Then 
drain  and  parboil  it  for  two  minutes,  after  which  drain  it  again,  and 
put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  veal  broth.  Let  it  boil  slowly 
for  an  hour,  and  season  it  lightly. 

SOUP — CREAM  OF  GREEN  FARINA  WHEAT. 

No.  1742. — Green  wheat  can  be  procured  in  grains  or  in  the  same 
way  as  Farina  (Semoule).  The  latter  is  preferred,  as  it  cooks  much 
quicker.  It  is  greatly  relished  by  Germans. 

Put  four  quarts  of  broth  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  boils  drop  in 
slowly  one  pound  and  a  half  of  the  green  Farina  Wh  eat,  stirring  it 
gently  until  it  boils.  Then,  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil 
slowly,  and  add  a  faggot  of  parsley  garnished  with  leeks  and  green 
onions.  Let  it  cook  for  one  hour,  then  skim  it,  take  out  the  faggot, 
and  strain  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  put  the  soup  in  a 
saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it  until  it  boils.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Let  it  boil  slowly  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  keep  warm.  Before 
serving  add  six  ounces  of  butter,  and  half  a  pint  of  cream,  diluted 
with  the  yolks  of  eight  raw  egg<.  Mix  it  well  until  the  butter  is 
melted. 


THE   PHYSIOLOGY   OF  TASTE.  407 


ARTICT.K  ccxxix. 


French  WINGED   PEA.  German 

Pois  Rame.  Die  Spargelerbse. 

No.  1743. — A  hardy  creeping  annual  plant.  The  pods  are  three 
inches  long,  with  four  longitudinal  leafy  membranes.  The  seeds 
are  globular,  slightly  compressed,  and  yellowish-white  in  color. 
The  ripened  seeds  are  used  as  a  substitute  for  coffee,  and  the  pods, 
while  young  and  tender,  are  prepared  the  same  as  string  beans. 

Sow  it  in  double  drills  an  inch  and  a  half  deep  and  two  feet  apart, 
the  single  rows  being  made  twelve  inches  from  each  other. 


ARTICLE;  ccxxx. 


WITLOEF. 

•Romaine  blanche.  Weisser  Eiidivieti 

No.  1744. — This  is  a  distinct  and  comparativelv  new  vegetable, 
somewhat  resembling  chicory  in  habit.  It  produces  a  moderate 
sized  and  beautiful  white  heart,  similar  in  shape  to  a  cos  lettuce, 
and  when  prepared  as  the  latter  is,  or  as  a  s  ilad,  it  will  be  found  a 
valuable  acquisition  to  the  winter  vegetables. 


ccxxxi. 


WOOD  SORREL. 

•Oseille  OxaUd>>.  Sourklee, 

No.  1745. — Wood  sorrel  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant,  growing 
naturally  in  woods,  in  cool  and  shaded  situations.  The  leaves  are 
radical,  inversely  heart-shaped,  and  produce  three  together  at  the 
extremity  of  quite  a  long  stam.  The  leaves  possess  a  pleasant  acid 
taste  and  are  mixed  with  salads,  to  which  they  impart  an  agreeably 
refreshing  flavor.  The  plant  is  considered  one  of  the  most  valuable 
of  all  vegetables  that  are  cultivated  for  their  acid  properties. 


408  HAKDER'S  AMERICAN  COOKERY. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1746. — It  may  be  propagated  either  by  seeds  or  by  dividing 
the  roots.  The  soil  should  be  rich  and  moist.  Sow  it  in  April,  in 
shallow  drills,  twelve  inches  apart. 


ccxxxil. 


French  WORMWOOD.  German 

Armoise  ou  Absinthe.  Vermouth. 

No.  1747. — A  hardy  perennial,  shrubby  plant,  three  feet  in 
height.  The  leaves  are  deeply  cut  or  divided,  pale-green  above, 
and  hoary  beneath.  The  leaves  when  bruised  have  a  strong,  some- 
what pungent  yet  aromatic  odor,  and  are  proverbial  for  their  intense 
bitterness. 

An  infusion  of  the  leaves  and  tops  of  the  common  Wormwood  i& 
used  as  a  vermifuge  tonic  and  stomachic.  The  leaves  are  also  bene- 
ficial to  poultry. 

ROMAN    WORMWOOD. 

No.  1748. — Resembles  the  common  Wormwood,  but  the  leaves  are 
smaller  and  more  finely  cut;  pale-green  above  and  hoary  on  the 
under  surface.  It  is  preferred  to  the  common  for  medicinal  pur- 
poses, as  the  taste  is  more  agreeable  and  its  odor  less  pungent. 

SEA  WORMWOOD. 

No.  1749. — The  leaves  are  numerous,  long,  narrow  and  hoary,  and 
bitter  to  the  taste.  When  bruised  they  emit  a  strong,  pleasant 
aromatic  flavor. 

CULTURE. 

No.  1750. — They  develop  best  in  warm,  dry,  light  soil.  They  are 
propagated  the  same  as  other  hardy  shrubs.  If  sown  by  seeds, 
sow  them  in  April  in  drills.  Transplant  the  seedlings  in  rows,  two- 
feet  apart,  and  a  foot  between  the  seedlings. 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


NO. 

ALEXANDER 1 

Culture 2 

Perfoliate  . .  3 


AMBROSIA. 


ANGELICA 

Culture 

Syrup 

Preserved  or  Candied. 


ANISE  .............................  9 

Culture  ..........................  12 

Anisette  Cordial  .................  10 

Pumpernickel  ...................  11 

AROMATIC,  Medicinal  and  Pot  Herbs  13 

Culture  ..........................  14 

Varieties  .........................  15 


ALLSPICE,  or  Aromatic  Nigelle 
Culture  .................. 


ARTICHOKE 

Culture 

Green  Large  Globe 

How  to  Prepare  for  Cooking 

With  Hollandaise  Sauce 

With  Butter  Sauce 

With  Mayonnaise  or  Viniagrette  .  . 

With  Oil  or  Poivrade  Sauce 

With  Oil  and  Vinegar  Sauce 

Barigoule 

Barigoule  ....... 

Italian  Style 

Fried,  Italian  Style 

Lyonnaise 

Stuffed,  Bordelaise 

Stuffed,  American  Style 

Tossed  (saute)  in  Butter 

Puree  for  Garniture 

Croquettes 

Soup,  Puree 

Soup,  Cream 

Pickled 

How  to  Cook  Pickled  Artichokes. 

Preserved  Whole 

Preserved  in  Quarters 

Puree  Preserved 

Jerusalem 


16 
17 

18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
5 


ARTICHOKE    BOTTOMS 35 

How  to  Prepare 35 

Stuffed,  Clara  Louise  Kellogg  Style.  36 

Stuffed,  Pioneer  Style 37 

Stuffed,  Italian  Style 38 

Fricassee  39 

Fried,  Villeroi  S  yle 40 

Spanish  Style 41 

Macedoine  .    42 

Provengale 43 

With  Fine  Herbs 44 

Stewed  for  Garniture 45 

For  large  Cold  Garniture 46 

Preserved  in  Cans 55 

ASPARAGUS 65 

Culture 66 

Colossal 67 

Giant 68 

Crossbred 69 

Small'Defiance 70 

How  to  Prepare  for  Cooking 71 

With  Butter  Sauce 72 

With  Hollandaise  Sauce 73 

Pieuioutaise 74 

Pompadour 75 

Spanish  Style 76 

With  Oil  and  Vinegar 77 

Puree  for  Garniture 84 

Soup — Puree,  Conde 89 

Puree,  Royal 90 

"       Puree,  St.  George 91 

"       Cream,  Countess 92 

Preserved  in  Salt 93 

Preserved  in  Cans 94 

Syrup 96 

ASPARAGUS  TOPS 78 

How  to  Prepare   78 

With  Sauce 79 

Colbert &0 

With  Truffles,  Imperial 81 

With  Mutton  Gravy 82 

For  Garniture 83 

For  Large,  Cold  Garniture V85 

Salad,  Plain 86 

Salad,  with  Shrimps 87 


410 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


ASPARAGUS  TOPS -Continued. 

Salad,  with  Truffles,  Royal 88 

Preserved  . .  ...     93 


ASPARAGUS   BEAN. 


97 


BALLS 1188 

Potatoes,  American  style 11SS 

Margot  style 1189 

(Quenelles)  of  Corn  Me  il 7L5 

of  Potatoes 1204 

"           of  Semoule,  Vill  roi .  . .  1405 
Vegetables,  Turkish  style 1672 

BALM 98 

Culture .  99 


BALM-MINT 


100 


BARLEY     101 

Common 102 

Mansury 103 

Naked,  or  Hullness 101 

Soup  Cream,  Neilsou  style 105 

Soup  Cream,  Marie  Louise  style.    .  106 

Soup  Cream,  Furr  igut  styL- 107 

Broth,  for  Invalids 108 

Water,  for  Invalids 109 

Water,  for  Gargling Ill 

Cream,  for  Invalids 110 

BASIL  SWEET        112 

Culture 113 

BATTER  for  Frying  Vegetables  1697 

BAY,      OR      LAUREL      LEAVES 

(  Common  ) 114 

'      (Larust  ue)  115 

BEANS 116 

Culture  of  the  Dwarf  or  Bush  Bean  117 

Early  Feegee 1 18 

Early  Eed  Valentine 119 

White  Valentine 120 

Gallega,  or  Large  Refugee 121 

Early  Mohawk 122 

Black  Wax  or  Butter 123 

White  Wax    124 

Ivory  Pot  Wax 125 

Canadian  Wonder 126 

Golden  Refugee 127 

Crystal  White  Wax 128 

Golden  Wax 124 

Refugee 130 

Large  White/Kidney 131 

White  Marrowfat 132 

Dw*rf  Soissou 133 

)  ole  Running 134 

Large  White  Lima 135 

Small  Lima  or  Sieva   .  .136 


BEANS— Continued. 

Dreer's  Improved  Lima 137 

Dutch  Case  Knife    138 

Speckled  Cranberry 139 

Scarlet  Liuuner 140 

Giant  Wax 141 

German  Wax  Pole ...  142 

English  or  Broad 143 

Early  Mazagan 144 

Broad  Windsor 145 

Sword  Long  Pod 146 

How  to  Prepare   String  Beans  for 

Cooking 147 

(String)  English  Style .  148 

Mai, re  d' Hotel U9 

With  Fine  Herbs 150 

"       Lyonuaise 1">1 

Poulette 152 

"       Bre tonne l")3 

"       German  Style ...  154 

With  Cr  an 155 

"       Country  Style 15'5 

Preserved  in  Suit 157 

"                "          "  Brine 158 

"  Cms 159 

"       Salted,  How  to  Prepare  for 

Cooking 160 

S.lad 161 

"           "     German  Style 162 

"       For  Garniture 163 

(Wax)  Maitre  d'Hotel 164 

(White,  or  Kidney).  With  Puree  of 

Onion,  S  mbise 165 

Country  Style 166 

White  or  Kidney  Soup  Pu  ee,  Newton 

Style 198 

(Dry  White)  Maitre  d  Hot  1 173 

"           "       German  Style ...  174 

'•          "        With  Cream  Sauce. . .  175 

"          "        Bretonne 176 

'           "        Robert 177 

WithB.con 178 

"          '•            '•     Marrow 179 

Salad 181 

"          "        For  Garniture 182 

Puree- White 183 

"             "         Brown    184 

With  Celery.  185 
"          "        Soup  Puree,  Pioneer 

Style...  201 

"      St.Geor^e  202 

Green  Flageolet,  Maitre  d'Hotel.  . .  167 

'•          German  Style 168 

«•            "          With  String  Beans  169 
"            "          Puree   for  Garni- 
ture..            ...  171 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


411 


BEANS— Continued. 

Green  Flageolet,  Preserved  in  Cans  172 
"  "          Soup,    Puree,    St. 

Germain.  ......   198 

Soup,  Puree,  Sou- 

bise 197 

"          Soup.  Cretin,  Le- 

land  Style 200 

Red,  Bourguignonne 186 

"     Cardinal,  for  Fast  Days 187 

"     Donohoe  Style,  for  Fast  Days  188 

Dry  Red.  Soup,  Puree,  Conde 203 

Black,  With  Butter. 189 

"       Soup  Puree,  Faubonne 199 

Soup,  Puree  for  Fast  Days   20  i 

For  Garniture 170 

Broad 190 

"      With  Cream,  Poulette   191 

"Lima 192 

'      With  Butter  Sauce     193 

"     French  Style    194 

"    Macedoiue 19") 

Baked  in  Pots IttO 

Notes 20  > 

BEETS ..  206 

Culture 207 

Egyptian  Turnip 208 

1'astiau's  Blood  Turnip 209 

Derning's  Blood  210 

Early  Flat  Bassano  211 

Long  Smo  >th  Blood  Bed 212 

Early  Yellow 213 

Pine  Apple 214 

Brazilian  Variegated 215 

Swiss  Chard  or  Sea  Kale 216 

How  to  Prepare  for  Cooking 217 

Boiled  Beets  Stewed 218 

Stewed,  Han  iverain  Style 219 

with  Cr- am  Sauce 220 

'•  Butter  "  ^ 221 

"  St  Ignatius ." 222 

Roasted 223 

For  G  trniture 221 

Fritters,  Chartreusse 225 

Sugar 2-26 

Jtiice  for  Soups  227 

Salad  with  Vegetables 228 

Pickled 229 

"  for  Relishes,  German  Style.  230 
"  American  "  .  231 

BENE 232 

Culture 233 

Bi-forined  Leaved 234 

Oval  Leaved 235 

Tri-fide  Leaved. . .  .236 


BOLETUS  (Esculent) 237 

BORAGE 238 

Culture 239 

BORDERS— Potatoes 1207 

Rice 1285 

Vegetables 1674 

BREAD  OF  VEGETABLES 1681 

BRIAR  LEAVES 240 

BROCOLI 241 

Culture 242 

White  Cape 243 

Purple  Cape 244 

Italian  Style 245 

With  Hollandaise  Sance 246 

For  Garniture 247 

Soup  Cream 243 

tJROOKLINE  OR  SPEEDWELL..  249 

BROTH— Barley  f-.r  Invalids.    ...  108 

Celery 473 

Dande  ion 651 

Pectoral  with  Turnips 1651 

Wheat 1741 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS 250 

Culture 251 

Tall  French 252 

Dwarf  Improved 253 

How  to  Prepare  for  Cooking 254 

With  Fine  Herbs 255 

With  Sauce 256 

Spanish  Style 257 

For  Garniture 258 

"        with  Broiled  Meats.   259 
Puree  for  Garniture 280 

BUCK'S-HORN  OR  COCK'S-HEAD 

PLANTAIN 261 

Culture 262 

BUCKWHEAT 263 

Common 264 

Silver  Hulled 265 

Cakes  with  Yeast 266 

"     Baking  Powder 267 

Baking  of  Cakes 268 

BUGLOSS 269 

Culture r 270 

BURNET 271 

Culture -272 

BUTTER -Garlic 730 

Horse-r:u)ish 761 

CABBAGE 273 

Culture 274  . 

E  rly  Jersey  Wakefield 275 

Early  Etarnpes 276 


412 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


NO. 

CABBAGE— Continued. 

Early  York 277 

"     Large  York 278 

"     Sugar  Loaf 279 

Little  Dixie 280 

Henderson's  Early  Summer 281 

Early  Flat  Dutch 282 

"     Dwarf  Flat  Dutch 283 

"     Winningstadt 284 

1 '    Bleichfield  Giant 285 

Filder  Kraut 286 

Drumhead  Short  Stem 287 

Early  Large  Schweinf urt 288 

Imperial  French  Ox  Heart    289 

Eed  Dutch,  for  Pickling 290 

Fine  Blood  Eed 291 

Marblehead 292 

Late  Flat  Dutch •••  293 

Large  Drumhead.  294 

Marblehead  Mammoth  Drumhead.   295 

Green  Glazed 296 

Early  Dwarf  Ulm  Savoy 297 

Green  Globe  Savoy 298 

American  Savoy 299 

Drumhead  Savoy 300 

Boiled 301 

With  Potatoes,  Flamande 302 

Braised,  French  Style 303 

German  Style 304 

With  Bac  >n,  Family  Style 305 

Stuffed 306 

"      Hunter's  Style 307 

Bismarck  Style. 308 

With  Cream 309 

Stewed,  Spanish  Style 310 

With  Quails  or  Partridges 311 

Hot  Slaw 312 

Cold  Slaw 313 

Salad 314 

Salad,  Boston  Style 315 

Salad,  with  Cream,  American  Style  316 

For  Garniture 321 

Soup 322 

Soup,  Served  with  Broth,  Garbure  323 

Pickled 324 

Eed  Cabbage  Salad  317 

Eed  Cabb:>ge,  German  Style 318 

Eed  Cabbage,  Hollandaise  Style. . .   319 
•   Eed  Cabbage,  Valencienne  Style. ..  320 

Eed  Cabbage,  Pickled,  English 325 

Sauer  Kraut 326 

Sauer  Kraut,  How  to  Make 327 

Sauer  Kraut,  How  to  Prepare  'for 

Cooking 328 

Sauer  Kraut,  German  Style 329 

Sauer  Kraut,  French  Style 330 


CABBAGE— Continued. 

Sauer  Kraut,  Bavarian  Style 331 

Sauer  Kraut,  Flemish  Style  332 

Sauer  Kraut,  Baked,  Dufour. 333 

Sauer  Kraut,  Baked,  with  Fillet  of 

Soles.., 334 

Sauer  Kraut,    with   Partridges  or 

Quails 335 

CAKES 

Batter 595 

Buckwheat,  with  Yeast 266 

Buckwheat,  with  Baking  Powder. .   267 
How  to  Bake  Buckwheat  Cakes. .  .  268 

Carolina,  with  Sab  lyon  Sauce 1513 

Corn 594 

Flannel 596 

Flap  Jacks,  or  Trimmed  Lace 597 

Graham  Griddle 739 

Green  Corn 576 

Corn  Griddle 594 

Potato 1201 

Eice  Glazed   1327 

Eice  Souffle 1326 

CALABASH,       OR       COMMON 

GOURDS 336 

CALAMINT 337 

CANDIED  ANGELICA 8 

CANTALOUPE,  or  Persian  Melons.  338 

Germek 339 

Geree 340 

Daree 341 

Green  Hoosaine   342 

Green  Valencia 343 

Ispahan 344 

Melon  of  Keising ,  345 

Melon  of  Seen 346 

How  to  Serve  347 

Preserved  in  Cans 348 

Preserved  in  Syrup 349 

CAPERS 350 

Pickled  in  Vinegar 351 

Sauce 352 

CAPILLAEY,  OR  VENUS  HAIR..  353 

Syrup 354 

CARAWAY 355 

Culture 356 

CARDOON 357 

Culture 358 

Large  Spanish 359 

The  Ordinary 360 

Artichoke-leaved.         361 

Large  Tours  Solid 362 

With  Marrow 363 

With  Parmesan  Cheese .  .   364 


GENEEAL   INDEX. 


413 


CARDOON— Continued. 

With  Cream  Sauce 365 

With  Essence  of  Ham 366 

Fricassee 367 

For  Garniture 368 

Puree.... 369 

SaLtd,  Spanish  Style     370 

Preserved 371 

Puree  Preserved 372 

CARROT 373 

Culture 374 

Early  French  Forcing 375 

Early  Scarlet  Ho  n 376 

Half  Long  Red  (Stunted  Roots) ...  377 
Half   Long   Red    Scarlet    (Pointed 

Roots) 378 

Early  Half  Long  Scarlet  Carenton.   379 

Long  Orange 380 

Danvers 381 

Altringham 382 

Long  White  Belgian 383 

Yellow  Belgian 384 

How  to  Prepare  for  Cooking 385 

Maitre  d'Hotel. 386 

Stewed,  German  Style 387 

With  Butter  Sauce 388 

With  Green  Peas,  Strasbourgeoise.  389 

Stewed,  Indian  Style 390 

Stewed,  for  Garniture 391 

For  large  Garniture  Flament 392 

For  small  Garniture,  Olive-shaped.   393 

Garniture,  Nivernaise 394 

Puree  for  Garniture 395 

Soup  Puree,  Aurore 396 

Stanley 397 

"        "        German  Style 398 

"        "        Crecy 399 

"        "  "    for  Fast  days...  400 

Pickled 401 

Preserved  for  Garniture 402 

Puree  Preserved  for  Soups  or  Gar- 
niture   -  403 

CASSEROLES  of  Rice 1318 

CATERPILLAR 404 

.    Culture 405 

CATNIP 406 

Culture 407 

CATSUP 408 

Elderberry 692 

Mushrooms 89G 

Tomato  No.  1 15b9 

"       No.  2 1590 

'«       No.3 1591 

"       Epicurean 1592 


NO. 

CAULIFLOWER 409 

Culture 410 

Early  Snowball 411 

"     Dwarf  Erfurt 412 

"      Paris 413 

Nonpareil 414 

Early  London 415 

Lenormand  Short- stemmed 416 

Walcheren 417 

Algiers 418 

Weith's  Autumn  Giant 419 

How  to  Prepare  for  Cooking 420 

With  Butter  Sauce 421 

Hollandaise 422 

Baked,  au  Gratin 423 

Fried,  Villeroi , 424 

Fried  in  Batter 425 

Italian  Style 426 

For  Garniture 427 

Puree  for  Garniture 428 

Salad 429 

Soup— Cream 430 

Soup  Puree 431 

Pickled 432 

Preserved  in  Brine 433 

CELERIAC,  or  Turnip  Rooted  Celery  434 

Culture 435 

Large  Erfurt 436 

Apple  Shaped 437 

Fried,  Villeroi 438 

Puree  for  Garniture 439 

Stewed,  Sanish  Style 440 

Stewed    with  Allemande  or  Cream 

Sauce.. 441 

Use  of  Celeriac  Tops 442 

With  Gravy  (Half -Glaze) 443 

For  Soups 444 

Preserved 445 

Pickled 446 

Preserved  in  Brine 447 

CELERY 448 

Culture 449 

Dwarf  White 450 

Sandringham  Dwarf  White 451 

Giant  White  Solid 452 

White  Walnut 453 

Half  Dwarf 454 

Golden  Dwarf 455 

London  Red 456 

Major  Clark  Pink 457 

Hood's  Dwarf  Red 458 

How  to  Prepare  for  General  Use. . .  459 

Plain  for  Relishes 460 

Dressed 461 

With  Gravy  (Half-Glaze) 462 


414 


GENEKAL   INDEX. 


NO, 

CELERY— Continued. 

Ste  A  ed,  Spanish  Style 463 

Stewed  with  Allemande  Sauce.   .  .     4(>4 

Stewed  with  Cream  Sauce 465 

Sauce 466 

Fried  Villeroi 467 

With  Parmesan  Cheese 468 

For  Garniture 469 

Puree  For  Garniture 470 

With  White  or  Brown  Sauce 471 

Salad 472 

Broth 473 

Soup,  Pu  ee,  Spanish  Style 474 

Cream  Soup  ; 475 

Puree,  Preserved 476 

Preserved 477 

Preserved  in  Brine 478 

Vinegar 479 

Flavor 480 

CENTAURY 481 

CEPES 897 

Bordelaise 897 

Provincial 898 

Polonaise 899 

With  Cream 900 

Preserved 907 

CHAMOMILE 482 

Culture 483 

CHAPON,  FOR    SALAD    DRESS- 
ING   731 

CHARTREUSSE 1675 

CHERVIL 484 

Culture 485 

Tuberous-Hooted 486 

CHESTNUT 487 

Soup,  Puree 488 

Cream,  Hunter's  Style 489 

' '        Garbure,  Polignac 490 

Puree 491 

Glazed 492 

CHICK    OR  EGYPTIAN  PEA 493 

Culture 494 

Ked 495 

White   496 

Yellow 497 

CHICKLING  WETCH,  OR  SPAN- 
ISH  LENTIL 498 

CHICCORY,   OR  SUCCORY 499 

Culture 500 

CHINESE  SPINACH 501 

CHINESE  YAM,  OR   POTATO...  502 

CHOCA..  .   519 


NO. 

CHOCOLATE,   PLAIN 520 

Pot 521 

With  Eggs  or  Cream   522 

Adulterated 523 

CHIVES,  OR  WELSH    ONION...  503 

Common,  or  Bed  Welsh  Onion     . .  504 

White  Welsh  Onion 505 

CHUFA,  OR  EARTH  NUT 508 

Culture 509 

CICELY     SWEET,     OR     SWEET 

SCENTED    CHERVIL 510 

CINNAMON 511 

CLARY   512 

CLAVARIA 513 

CLOVES   514 

COCOA 515 

Grotind   516 

Shell 517 

Brouia   „ 518 

Choca 519 

Plain  Chocolate   5'20 

Pot  Chocolate   521 

Chocolate,  with  Eggs  or  Cream. . ..  522 

Adulterated  Chocolate 523 

COFFEE 524 

Remarks  on  Mixing  525 

For  Family  Use 526 

Boiled  527 

Boiled 528 

German  Style 529 

Essence,  for  Cream 530 

Ice 531 

COLT'S-FOOT,  Common 532 

Culture 533 

COLORS  for  Culinary  Purposes.Green  1461 
For  Culinary  Purposes,  Yellow ....  1353 

COMMON  CHIVES * 506 

Culture 507 

CORIANDER 534 

Culture 535 

CORN 542 

Culture 543 

Early  Marblehead 544 

Dolly  Button  545 

Extra  Early  Adams 546 

Early  Minnesota 547 

Early  Bed  Narragansett 548 

Crosby's  Extra  Early 549 

Russell's  Early  Prolific  Sugar 550 

Early  Sweet  Sugar 551 

Moore's  Early  Concord  Sweet 552 

Black  Mexican . .  .  553 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


415 


CORN— Continued. 

Excelsior 554 

Amber  Cream   555 

Triumph . .   5n6 

Egyptian  Sweet 557 

Mammoth  Sweet .  558 

Stowell's  Evergreen  Sweet 559 

Burlington  Early  Adams 560 

Early  Canada   561 

Lackawaxen 562 

Early  White  Flint 563 

Large  Red  Blazed 564 

Early  Golden  Dent 565 

Chester  County  Mammoth 566 

Blunt's  Prolific 567 

Rice  Corn  for  Parching 568 

Boiled  Green 569 

With  Milk  or  Cream 570 

Stewed  Green 571 

With  Beans ' . .  572 

Succotash • 573 

With  Tomatoes 574 

Fritters 575 

Cakes 576 

How  to  Prepare  Canned  Corn 577 

Roasted. 578 

Soup— Cream 579 

Chowder 580 

Hulled 581 

Boiled  Coarse  Hominy 582 

Fine  Hominy 583 

Fried  Hominy 584 

Hominy  Croquettes 585 

Baked  Hominy 586 

Corn  Meal  587 

Boiled  Mush 588 

Fried  Mush  .      . .    589 

Corn  Meal  Gruel 590 

Polainta  of  Corn  Meal  with  Cheese.  591 

With  Game 592 

Crusts  of  Polainta,  Milanaise  Style.  593 

Griddle  Cakes 594 

Batter  Cakes 595 

Flannel  Cakes 596 

Flap  Jacks  or  Trimmed  Lace 597 

Corn  Search . .  598 

CORN  POPPY,  or  Coquelicot 536 

CORN  SALAD,  or  Lamb  Lettuce ....  537 

Culture 538 

Salad 539 

With  Beets   510 

With  Celery 541 

COUCH  GRASS 599 

COS  LETTUCE,  OR  ROMAINE  . .  600 


NO. 

COSTMARY,  OR  ALECOST 601 

Culture  602 

CRANBERRY 60S 

Culture 604 

Sauce 605 

CREAM.  Barley  for  Invalids 110 

Oat  Meal 954 

Spinach 1462 

Sweet  Potatoes  for  Pies  1512 

CRESS.  OR  PEPPER  GRASS 606 

Culture 607 

CRESS,  GARDEN 608 

CRESS,  WATER 609 

Culture 610 

Its  Use 611 

CROQUETTES,  Artichokes 48 

Hominy  585 

Potatoes 1185 

Rice 1322 

Rice,  Creo'e  Style 1325 

CRUSTS.     Morels 863 

Mushrooms 890 

Potatoes 1208 

Po^iuta,  Milanaise  Style 593 

Polaiuta,  Italian  Style 712 

Rice,  small 1313 

"     Victoria  Style 1314 

"  "  With  Eggs  and  Cheese.  1315 
"  "  "  Curried  Lobster..  1316 
"  "  "  Puree  of  Chicken.1317 

Semoule,  small,  Palermitaine 1404 

Vegetables,  Macedoine  Style 1608 

CUCUMBER 612 

Culture 613 

Early  White  Spine 614 

Extra  Large  White  Spine 615 

Boston  Pickling 616 

Early  Frame .  617 

Early  Cluster 618 

Green  Prolific 619 

Early  Russian 620 

Long  Green 621 

English  Frame  or  Forcing 6.2 

With  Cream  Sauce 623 

Poulette 624 

Duchesse   625 

Spanish  Style 626 

Stuffed,  Spanish  Style 627 

Stuffed,  Italian  Style 6'28 

Stuffed,  Turkish  Style 629 

Scalloped  for  Garniture 630 

"          "  "        with  Sauce  631 

Puree  . .           632 


416 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


CUCUMBER— Continued. 

Soup — Cream,  Queen  Style 633 

Soup  Puree,  Patti  Style 634 

With  Soup  Puree  of  Chicken 635 

For  Relish 636 

Salad,  French  Style 637 

"      Spanish     "     638 

"      German     "    639 

Preserved 640 

Pickled 641 

Pickled  (Pickles  or  Gherkins) -  642 

"      Mixed  Pickles 643 

CUCKOO-FLOWER  CRESS 644 

CUMIN 645 

CURRY 646 

CUSTARD— Coffee  in  Cups  1531 

For  Soup  Garniture,  Langtry  Style.  1301 

Onion,  for  Soup  Garniture 1014 

Tea  in  Cups 1 53 1 

DANDELION          647 

Culture 648 

Large  Leaved 649 

Salad ...  650 

Broth 651 

DILL 652 

Culture 653 

DIET-DRINKS  (Tisanes) 654 

Decoction  of  Malt 655 

Herb  Juice 656 

Iceland  Moss  or  Lichen 657 

Coltsfoot 658 

Anti-bilious. 659 

Emollient 660 

Pectoral 661 

Apozems 662 

"        Diuretic  or  Aperient 663 

' '        Vermifuge 664 

"        Anti-Scorbutic 665 

"        Astringent 666 

"        Stomachic 667 

"        Purgative 668 

"        German  or  White  Decoc- 
tion... .   669 


DUXELLE 


744 


EGG-PLANT 670 

Culture 671 

Early  long  Purple 672 

Black  Pekin 673 

Large  New  York  Purple . .    674 

Improved  Large  Purple 675 

Guadaloupe  Striped 676 

Ornamental  Varieties 677 

Fried,  Freach  Style 678 


EGG-PLANT— Continued. 

Breaded  and  Fried,  American  Style  679 

Lyonnaise 680 

With  Cheese,  Neapolitan  Style 681 

With  Cream  and  Cheese 682 

Puree 683 

Stuffed,  American  Style 684 

"          Brazilian     "     685 

Turkish       "     686 

"          Parisian      "     687 

For  Garniture 688 

Salad 689 

EGYPTIAN  CUCUMBER 690 

ELDERBERRIES 691 

Catsup 692 

ELECAMPANE 693 

ENDIVE  OR  CHICOREE 694 

Culture 695 

French  Moss 696 

Broad  Leaved  Batavian   697 

Green  Curled 698 

With  Cream  Sauce 699 

German  Style  700 

With  Poacned  Eggs 701 

With  Veal  Gravy 702 

Puree 703 

Salad,  French  Style   704 

'       German    "     705 

"    American"     706 

Soup — Cream  with  Poached  Eggs..  707 
Preserved  in  Cans 708 

ESSENCE     ...    530 

Coffee,  for  Creams 530 

Mushroom 894 

Shallots 1411 

Truffles 1606 

Vegetables 724 

1696 


FAGGOT  OF  PARSLEY 


1039 


FARINA 709 

Polainta  of  Corn  Meal  Piemontaise  710 
"  "  "on  Skivers.  711 

Crusts  (Polainta)  of  Corn  Meal, 

Italian  Style 712 

Crusts,  or  Stands  of  Corn  Meal,  for 

Hot  or  Cold  Side  Dishes 713 

Tartlets  of  Corn  Meal..'. 714 

Balls,  or  Quenelles  of  Corn  Meal. . .  715 
Fried  Farina  (Polainta)  of  Corn 

Meal,  Eamequin  716 

Polainta  for  Garnitures 717 

Gruel..  ...  718 


FECULA. 


719 


GENEEAL   INDEX. 


417 


FENNEL  (SWEET) 720 

Culture 721 

Stewed 722 

FINE  HERBS 742 

Cooked 742 

Eaw 743 

In  Sauce 745 

FLAVORS— ESSENCES  AND  EX- 
TRACTS    723 

Essence  of  Vegetables 724 

Flavor  of  Celery 480 

"   Vanilla 1669 

FLOUR 725 

Bepere 726 

FRICASEE 

Artichoke  Bottoms 39 

Cardoous 367 

Lentils 795 

FRIED  Artichokes,  Italian  Style 30 

"  Bottoms,  Villeroi.     40 

Cauliflower,  Villeroi 424 

"  In  Batter 425 

Celeriac,  Villeroi 438 

Celery,  Villeroi 467 

Egg  Plant,  French  Style 678 

"        "      Breaded,  American  Style  679 

Farina,  Eamequin 716 

Hominy 584 

Hops 752 

Lettuce,  Stuffed 820 

Morels 862 

Mushrooms 589 

Onions 991 

Parsnips 1050 

Potatoes,  Saratoga  Style 1192 

Long  Branch  Style 1 1 93 

"          FrenchStyle 1194 

"         Julienne  Style  1195 

Parisian  Style 1196 

Puffed  (Souffle) .1199 

Salsify,  in  Batter 1374 

"       Villeroi 1375 

"      in  Butter 1376 

Squash,  Stuffed,  American  Style..  .1491 

"       Boston  Style 1492 

Sweet  Potatoes 1509 

Puffed  (Souffle).  ..1510 
Tomatoes 1571 

FRITTERS 

Beets,  Chartreusse 225 

Carolina  Cake,  Nellie  Grant  Stsle.,1514 

Corn 575 

Parsnip 1052 

27 


FRITTERS— Continued. 

Eice 1325 

"    (Subrics) 1323 

Spinach  ( Subrics) 1460 

Sweet  Potatoes. 1511 

GARBURE 727 

GARNITURES 

Artichoke  Bottoms,  Stewed 45 

"  "          Large  Cold...       46 

Asparagus  Tops  83 

"  "    Large  Cold 85 

Beans,  Dry  White 182 

"        String 163 

Beets ; . .  224 

Brocoli 247 

Brussel's  Sprouts 258 

"  "      for  Broiled  Meats  259 

Cabbage 321 

Cardo*>ns 368 

Carrots  Stewed  for 391 

"       Flamant,  Large 392 

"       Olive-shaped,  Small 393 

"       Nivernaise 394 

Cauliflower 427 

Celery 469 

Cucumbers,  Scolloped 630 

"  with  bauce 631 

Egg  Plant 688 

Farina  Polaiuta 717 

Farmer's  Style,  Large 1690 

Floral  Style,  Large 1694 

Jardiniere,  Large 1691 

Small. 1692 

"  Cold 1693 

Jerusalem  Artichokes 63 

Lettuce 822 

Macedoine,  Large 1686 

"  Small 1688 

Cold ..1687 

Morels 864 

Mushrooms 889 

Okra 964 

Onions 1001 

"      Small  Baked 1002 

Onion  Custard  for  Soups 1014 

Parsley,  Fried 1041. 

Plain 1042 

Peas,  Green 1087 

Peasant  Style,  Large 1689 

Peppers,  Green 1118 

Potatoes. 1202 

Provincial,  Large 1695 

Eadishes 1256 

Eice 1300 

"    Custard  for  Soup 1301 


418 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


GARNITURES— Continued. 

Spinach 1459 

Tomatoes 1581 

Truffles 1607 

«•        Cold 1608 

Turnips,  Brown 1641 

"          White 1642 

Turnip  C,.bbage 1661 

GARLIC 728 

Culture 729 

Butter  or  Gascony  Butter 730 

Chapon  for  SaLtd  Dressing 731 

Puree 732 

GHERKIN 733 

GINGER 734 

GLOBE  CUCUMBER 735 

GOOSE-FOOT,  or  White   Quinoa...   736 

Culture 737 

GRAHAM  FLOUR 738 

Griddle  Cakes 739 

GRUEL 

Corn  Meal 590 

Farina.     718 

Oat  Meal 951 

"    Scotch 952 

Oats 951 

Kice 1312 

..1363 


HERBS 740 

Culture 741 

Cooked 742 

Kaw..; 743 

Duxelle 744 

Sauce 745 

Dry 746 

HOLLYHOCK,    OR    ROSE    MAL- 
LOW   747 

HOOSUNG   OR  OOSUNG 748 

HOPS 749 

Boiled  with  Sauce 750 

Stewed    "         "     751 

Fried 752 

HOARHOUND 753 

Culture 754 

HORSE-RADISH 755 

Culture 756 

For  Eelish 757 

Sauce 758 

"      with  Apples 759 

"        "     Cream 760 

Butter 761 

Vinegar 762 


HYSSOP 763 

Culture 764 

INDIAN  STAR  ANISE  SEED 765 

INFUSION  FOR  TURTLE  SOUP..  1411 

JAPAN  PEA 766 

Culture 767 

JASMINE 768 

JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE 57 

Culture f>8 

With  Butter  Sauce 59 

Italian  Style <  0 

Cracovienue .  61 

Puree  for  Garniture   62 

For  Garniture 63 

Soup  Puree,  Palestine 64 

JUNIPER 769 

KALE  OR  BORECOLE 770 

Culture 771 

Tall  Green  Curled  Scotch 772 

German  Dwarf  Purple 775 

"      Green 774 

Dwarf  Erfurt 775 

Cottagers 776 

With  Cream 777 

For  Greens,  with  Salt  Pork  or  Bacon  778- 

LAVENDER 77& 

LEEK 780 

Culture 781 

London  Flag 782 

Little  Moutagne 783 

Proliferous 18& 

Yellow  Poiton. 785 

Large  Rouen 786- 

Soup,  Puree  Viennoise 787 

LENTIL  OR  LENS 788 

Culture 78i> 

Common 790 

Green 791 

Large 792 

Small 793. 

Maitre  d'  Hotel 794 

Fricassee 795 

Puree,  for  Garnitures,  Coude 796 

Soup,  Puree 797 

"  Conde 798 

"  Hunter's  Style 799 

LETTUCE 800 

Culture 801 

Early  Tennis  Ball 802 

Black  seeded  Simpson 803 

Simpson  Early  Curled 804 

Early  Boston  Curled 805 

"  Prize  Head  (Ferry's) 806 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


419 


LETTUCE— Continued. 

Hanson 807 

Deacon 808 

Early  Curled  Silesia 809 

Frankfort  Head 810 

Large  Drumhead 811 

Philadelphia  Butter 812 

Brown  Dutch 813 

Green  Fringed 814 

White  Paris  Cos 815 

Salamander 816 

Braised,  Spanish  Style   817 

German  Style 818 

Stuffed 819 

"      and  Fried 820 

With  Cream 821 

'•     Gravy 822 

For  Garniture 823 

Salads 824 

With  Consomme,  Garbure 825 

Water  for  Invalids 826 

Preserved  Whole 827 

"          in  Cans 628 

When  Used  in  Vegetable  Soups.   . .   829 

LICORICE 830 

Culture 831 

LIMA  BEANS 832 

Culture 833 

Green 834 

Mottled 835 

LIME  OR  LINDEN   TREE 836 

LOVAGE 837 

Culture 838 

LUPINE 839 

MACE 840 

MACEDOINE  Garniture,  Large 1686 

Garniture,  Small 1688 

Garniture,  Cold 1687 

Vegetables,  American  Style 1685 

"  German  Style 1684 

' '  Mexican  Style 1683 

Spanish  Styla 1682 

MADRAS  RADISH 841 

MALLOW— CURLED  LEAVED...   842 
MAR  ANT  A,   OR    ARROWROOT 

PLANT 843 

Preparation  of  its  Flour 844 

Its  Use 845 

MARJORAM 846 

Culture 847 

Sweet 848 

Common 849 

Pot 850 

Winter  Sweet..,  .  851 


MARSH  MALLOW 852 

MELILOT 853 

MINT 854 

Culture , 855 

Sauce,  American  Style 856 

Sauce,  French  Style 857 

MOREL 858 

Poulette 859 

Spanish  Style 860 

On  Skivers 861 

Fried 862 

With  Gratinated  Crusts 863 

For  Garniture 864 

Stuffed 865 

MULLEN  OR  MULLEIN 866 

MUSHROOMS 867 

Culture 868 

Common 869 

Agaricus  Comatus 870 

Sweet,  or  Delicious K7 1 

St.  George 872 

Blewitt's  Blue  Hats 873 

Agaricus  Primulas 874 

Fairy  King 875 

How  to  Clean  and  Prepare 876 

Cooked  for  General  Purposes 877 

With  Allemande  Sauce 878 

With  Espagnole  Sauce 879 

On  Toast  (Saute) 880 

Puree 881 

Broiled  on  Toast,  Maitre  d'Hotel. .  882 

Broiled,  Bordelaise   ,  . 883 

Provincial 884 

Piemontaise 885 

Use  of  Trimmings  and  Peelings. . .  886 

Stuffed  with  Fine  Herbs 887 

Stuffed,  Italian  Style 888 

For  Garniture 889 

With  Gratinated  Crusts : .  890 

Baked  in  Shells 891 

Poulette 892 

With  Cream  Sauce,  American  Style  893 

Essence  of  Fresh 894 

Soya  Sauce 895 

Catsup  896 

Cepes,  Bordplaise 897 

"       Provincial 898 

"       Polonaise 899 

"       with  Cream 900 

"       Preserved 907 

Tartlets  with  Cream 901 

In  Shells,  Russian  Style 902 

Dry 903 

Preserved  in  Cans 904 

"          in  Jars..  .  905 


420 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


MUSHROOMS—  Continued. 

NO. 

Preserved  Trimmings,    for     Fine 

Herbs  

906 

MUSKMELON  

908 

Culture  

909 

Beechwood  

910 

Christiana  

911 

Citron  

912 

Hardy  Ridge  

913 

Xarge  Eibbed,  Netted  

914 

Nutmeg  

915 

Pineapple  

916 

:Skillman's  Fine  Netted  

917 

Victory  of  Bath  

918 

White  Japan  

919 

For  Eelishes  

920 

Pickled  (Mangoes)  

921 

Preserved,  Spiced  

922 

"            in  Syrup  

923 

MUSTARD  

924 

Culture  

9-25 

White  

926 

Chinese,  or  Pekin  

927 

Curled  

928 

Cut  Leaved  

929 

Black  

930 

•Charlock  

931 

Mixed,  for  Table  Use  

932 

Anchovy  

933 

Eavigote  

934 

Sauce,  for  Deviled  Me.its  

935 

NASTURTIUM  

936 

Culture  

937 

Small  

938 

Tall  

939 

Dark  Flowering   

940 

Seed  Buds,  Pickled  

941 

NETTLE  

942 

NEW  ZEALAND  SPINACH  

943 

NUTMEG  

914 

OAK  ^Common  Wall  Germander)  

945 

OATS  

946 

Black  Champion  

9i7 

American  Triumph  

948 

Russian  White  

949 

Gruel  

950 

c<                                               

951 

"      (Scotch)  

952 

Porridge  

953 

Cream  of  

954 

OKRA  

955 

Culture  

956 

Dwarf  Green  ,  

957 

OKRA— Continued. 

Long  Green 958 

Fall,  or  Giant 959 

Stewed,  Plain 960 

"       with  Tomatoes 961 

"          "      Fine  Herbs 962 

Salad 963 

For  Garniture 964 

For  Soup 965 

Dry-  Its  Use 966 

Soup,  with  Chicken   967 

ONIONS 918 

Preparation  of  the  Soil 969 

Culture   970 

How  to  Keep  Through  Winter 971 

Remarks  on  Small 972 

Early  Bed  Globe 973 

Extra  Early  Bed 974 

Large  Eed  Wetherfield 975 

Large  Yellow  Dutch 976 

Yellow  Danvers 977 

White  Portugal,  Silver  Skin 978 

White  Silver  Skin,  for  Pickling. . . .   979 

White  Globe   980 

Large  Mexican 981 

Early  Neopolitan  Marzajola. 982 

Giant  Eocca 983 

"      White  Italian  Tripoli 984 

New  Queen 985 

Eed,  Yellow  or  White  Bottom  Sets  986. 

English  Multiplier 987 

Potato.... 988 

Boiled,  Plain 989 

' '        with  Butter  or  Cream  Sauce  990 

Fried 991 

Smothered 992 

Glazed 993 

Stuffed 994 

"      American  Style 995 

Puree  ( Brown  Soubise) 996 

"      (White        "       ) 997 

Sauce,  Brown ....   998 

•'       White 999 

1 '       Brown  Piquant        1000 

For  Garniture 1001 

Small,  Baked  for  Garniture,  Span- 
ish Style 1002 

Gravy 1003 

"     with  Sage 1004 

Juice 1005 

Chopped  for  Fine  Herbs,  etc 1006 

Green,  for  Eelish 1007 

Peelings,  their  Use 1008 

Soup 1009 

"    Stanislaus  Style 1010 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


421 


ONIONS— Continued. 

Soup  with  Milk  1011 

"    Puree,  Bavarian  Style 1012 

"        "       Bretonne  •  "     ..1013 

Custard  for  Garniture  of  Soups. .  .1014 

Soup,  Garbure 1015 

Pickled ..1016 

"      1017 

Vinegar 1018 

ORACH,    OR    MOUNTAIN    SPIN. 

ACH 1019 

Green 1020 

Lurid    1021 

Purple 1022 

Bed 1023 

Eed  Stalked  Green 1024 

"          "        White 1025 

White 1026 

ORRIS,  OR  IRIS  ROOT 1027 

OXALIS,  OR  TUBEROUS  ROOT- 
ED WOOD  SORREL 1028 

Culture 1029 

PAK-CHOI 1030 

PALMATE- LEAVED  RHUBARB.  1031 
PALM  CABBAGE 1032 

PANADE    OF    RICE    FLOUR,    for 

Forced  Meats 1321 

PARSLEY 1033 

Culture 1034 

Fine  Tripled  Curled 1035 

Carter's  Fern  Leaved 1036 

Plain  1037 

Hamburg  or  Turnip  Rooted 1038 

Faggot  of 1039 

Chopped.       1040 

Fried  for  Garnishing 1041 

For  Garnishing     1042 

PARSNIPS 1043 

Culture • 1044 

Long  Smooth  Yellow 1045 

"      White  Dutch.      1046 

The  Student 1047 

Short  Bound  French 1048 

With  Butter  Sauce 1049 

Fried 1050 

Mashed 1051 

Fritters 1052 

PATES 

Truffles,  Bennett  Style 1612 

Vegetables,  Small,  American  Style.  1679 
"  "       French  Style.  ..1678 

PATIENCE. . .  . .  1053 


NO. 

PEA-NUT 1054 

Culture 1055 

African 1056 

Wilmington 1057 

Tennessee 1058 

PEAS 1059 

Culture 1060 

American  Wonder 1061 

Kentish  Invicta  .* 1062 

Laxton's  Alpha 1063 

Early  Tom  Thumb 1064 

Blue  Peter 1065 

Extra  Early 1066 

Little  Gem 1067 

Premium  Green 1068 

McLean  Advancer 1069 

Carter's  Little  Wonder 1070 

Early  Philadelphia 1071 

Dwarf  Champion 1072 

Champion  of  England 1073 

Large  Blue  Imperial 1074 

"      White  Marrowfat 1075 

Dwarf  Marrowfat 1076 

Large  Black-eyed  Marrowfat 1077 

Yorkshire  Hero 1078 

Dwarf  Gray  Sugar 1079 

Tall  Sugar.... 1080 

Field  Sorts 1081 

English  Style 1082 

Paiisian  Style 1083 

Family  Style 1084 

With  Cream,  Sharon  Style 1085 

With  Bacon 1086 

For  Garniture 1087 

Puree  for  Garniture 1088 

Soup  Puree 1089 

"     St.  Germain  , 1090 

"         "      of  Split  Peas 1091 

"    with  Juli- 
enne, Conde 1092 

"         "      "  Dried    Green    Peas, 

German  Style 1093 

Preserved  Green. . .  1094 


PENNYROYAL. 


.1095 


PEPPER 1096 

Culture 1097 

Chili 1098 

Long  Red  Cayenne 1099 

Large  Squash 1 100 

Golden  Dawn 1101 

Large  Bell 1102 

Sweet  Mountain 1 103 

Cranberry 1104 

Grossum...  1105 


422 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


PEPPER— Continued. 

Cherry  or  Little  Gem 1106 

Chili  Peppers  preserved  in  Vinegar .  1107 

Chili  Pepper  Vinegar 1108 

Vinegar 1109 

Preserved  Pickled  Bell  Peppers 1110 

Preserved     Stuffed     Pickled     Bell 

Peppers 1111 

Pickled  Stuffed  Bell  Peppers,  Sha- 
ron Style 1112 

How  to  make  Ked  Pepper 1113 

How  to  make  White  Pepper 1120* 

Broiled  Bell  Peppers    1114 

Stuffed    Bell    Peppers,    American 

Style 1115 

Stuffed  Bell  Peppers,  French  style  1116 
Stuffed    Bell    Peppers,     Brazilian 

Style 1117 

Green  Peppers,  for  Garniture.    . .  .1118 

For  Relishes 1119 

PEPPERMINT 1121 

PICKLED 

Art  chokes 51 

Artichokes,  how  to  Cook 52 

Beets 229 

Beets  for  Relish,  German  Style 230 

Cabbage 324 

Cabbage,  Red  English  Style    322 

Capers St  1 

Carrots 401 

Cauliflower  432 

Celeriac 446 

Cucumbers 462 

Cucumbers,  Mixed  Pickles 643 

Melons  ( Mangoes) 921 

Nasturtium  Seed  Buds 941 

Onions 1016 

"       1017 

Peppers,  Bell,  Sharon  Style 1112 

PICKLES 1123 

Mixed 1124 

Chow-Chow 1125 

PICRIDIUM 1126 

PI-TSAI 1122 

POKE,  OR  PIGEON  BERRY 1127 

Stalks,  with  Butter  Sauce 1128 

POPPY 1 129 

Culture 1130 

PORRIDGE,  Oat  Meal 953 

PORTUGAL  CABBAGE 1131 

POTATOES 1132 

Culture 1133 

Early  Mayflower 1134 


POTATOES— Continued. 

Wall's  Orange 1135 

Jumbo 1 136 

Champion  of  America 1137 

Rochester  Favorite 1138 

Saint  Patrick 1 139 

Beauty  of  Hebron 1140 

Early  Rose 1 141 

White  Rose 1142 

Late  Rose 1 143 

Peerless 1 144 

Snowflake 1 145 

Early  Telephone 1146 

Vermont  Champion 1 147 

Peach  Blow 1 148 

Mammoth  Pearl 1149 

Early  Gem 1150 

Carter 1151 

Buckeye 1 152 

California  Red 1 153 

Boiled 1 1 54 

"      Peeled 1155 

"      New 1156 

"     German  Style 1157 

Steamed 1158 

Stewed,  American  Style 1159 

"        Maitre  d'Hotel 1160 

"        Epicurean  St>  le 1161 

Baked  Stewed,  with  Cream,  Chad- 
wick  Style 1162 

Stewed,  Bretonue  Style. 1163 

•'        Hanoverian  Style 1164 

"        with  Mustard  Sauce 1165 

"    Bacon 1166 

Hashed,      "    Cream 1167 

Hashed,  Browned   1168 

Baked  Hashed  with  Cream 1169 

"      with   Salt  Herrings,   Berlin 

Style 1170 

Baked,  Carlsruhe  Style. 1171 

Baked,  with  Anchovies 1172 

Boiled,  Italian  Style       1 173 

Tossed  in  Butter  (Saute) 1174 

Lyonnaise 1 175 

Tossed.  Italian  Style  (Saute) 1176 

Saute,  Hollandaise 1177 

Broiled  ..    1178 

Baked 1179 

Baked,  New 1180 

Mashed 1181 

Baked  Mashed 1182 

Baked  Mashed  with  Spinach,  Frank- 
fort Style 1183 

Baked  Mashed  with  Ham,  Buckeye 
Style 1184 


GENEKAL   INDEX. 


423 


POTATOES— Continued. 

Croquettes ....     1 185 

Duchesse 1 186 

Stuffed,  Surprise 1187 

Balls,  American  Style 1188 

Balls,  Margot  Style 1189 

Convent  or  Pelerine  Style 1190 

Dauphine 1191 

Fried,  Saratoga  Chips 1192 

"      Long  Branch  Style 1193 

"      French  Style  1194 

"      Julienne  Style 1195 

"      Parisian  Style 1196 

Brabant  Style     .    1197 

Chateaubriand 1 198 

Souffle  (Puffed) 1199 

Puree,  Jackson  Style   1'200 

Cake 12  U 

For  Garniture 1202 

Tlour  (Fecule) 1203 

Balls  for  Soups  (Quenelles) 1204 

Soup-Puree,  with  Cream,  Parmen- 

tier 1205 

Soup-Puree,  Jackson  Style   1206 

For  Borders 1207 

Crusts 1208 

Salad 1209 

"    with  Anchovies  or  Herrings. .  1210 

"    with  Truffles 121 1 

"    Bennett  Style 1212 

"    with  Aspic  Jelly,  Chartreusse.  1213 

PRESERVED 

Artichokes,  Whole 53 

'•  in  Quarters 51 

Artichoke  Bottoms,  in  Cans  55 

Artichoke  Puree 56 

Asparagus  in  Salt 93 

1 '  in  Cans 94 

' '  Tops   95 

Beans,  String  in  Siilt   157 

"  "       in  Brine 158 

"  "       in  Cans 159 

« '       Flageolet,  in  Cans 172 

Cardoons 371 

Cardoon  Puree 372 

Carrots  for  Garniture 402 

"       Puree,   for  Garniture    and 

Soups 403 

Cauliflower  in  Brine 433 

Celeriac 445 

"       in  Brine 447 

Celery 477 

"     in  Brine 478 

"     Puree     476 

Endives  in  Cans. .  .  708 


PRESERVED— Continued. 

Lettuce,  Whole 827 

"         in  Cans 828 

Melons  in  Cans 348 

"       in  Syrup 349 

"       Spiced 922 

"  "     in  Syrup  923 

Mushrooms  in  Cans 904 

"  in  Jars 905 

Mushroom    Trimmings,   for    Fine 

Herbs 906 

Mushrooms  (Cepes ; 907 

Peas 109i 

Peppers,  Chili .1107 

Bell 1111 

Sorrel 1433 

Tomatoes 1594 

Tomato  Sauce 1595 

Tomatoes,  Whole,  in  Sauce 1596 

Tomato  Figs 1597 

PUDDING    OF    SWEET    POTA- 
TOES   1515 

PUMPKIN 1214 

Culture 1215 

Large  Yellow 1216 

Cushan 1217 

Sweet  Sugar  1218 

Nuntucket 1219 

Diet  Drink  (Tisa  e) 1220 

Baked,  Vermont  Style 1221 

Mashed 1222 

Soup— Cream  of 1223 

PUREE 

Artichoke   47 

"         Preserved 56 

Asparagus 84 

Beans,  New 170 

"       Green  Flageolet 171 

"       Dry  White— White 183 

"  "  —Brown 184 

"  "  with  Celery..   185 

Brussels  Sprouts 260 

Cardoons  369 

Carrots 395 

"      Preserved,     for     Garnitures 

and  Sou  ps 403 

Cauliflower 428 

Celeriac 439 

Celery 470 

Chestnuts 491 

Cucumbers  632 

EggP.ant 683 

Endive 703 

Garlic . .  .732 


424 


GENEEAL  INDEX. 


PUREE— Continued. 

Lentil,  Conde 796 

Mushrooms 881 

Onions,  Brown  Soubise 996 

White       "        997 

Peas,  Green 1088 

Potatoes,  Jackson  Style 1200 

Sea  Kale 1401 

Sorrel 1428 

"     with  Sauce 1429 

Tomato 1584 

Truffles  1609 

Turnip,  with  Cream 1639 

"  "  French  Style  .1640 

PURSLAIN 1224 

Common 1225 

RADISH , 1226 

Culture 1227 

Spring  and  Summer 1228 

Oblong  Brown 1229 

Olive  Shaped  Scarlet 1230 

Scarlet  Turnip-rooted 1231 

Long  Scarlet 1232 

Long  White 1233 

Long  White,  purple  top 1234 

Small  Yellow  Turnip-rooted 1235 

White  Crooked 1236 

Yellow  Turmp-rooted 1237 

Long  Salmon 1238 

Long  Purple 1239 

Early  Black 1240 

"     Long  Purple 1241 

' '      Scarlet  Turnip-  rooted 1242 

"      White  Turnip-rooted 1243 

Gray  Olive-shaped 1241 

Gray  Turnip-rooted 1245 

Autumn  and  Winter 1246 

Large  Purple  Winter 1247 

Black  Spanish 1243 

Long  Black  Winter 1249 

Long-leaved  White  Chinese 1250 

Rose-colored  Chinese 1251 

Winter  Spanish 1252 

California  Mammoth  White  Winter.  1253 

Eed  for  Relishes 1254 

Black  for  Eelishes 1255 

For  Garnitures 1256 

The  Oil 1257 

RAMPION 1258 

Culture 1259 

RAMPION,    or    German  or    Evening 

Primrose 1260 

Salad..,  ..1261 


RAPE . ..." 1 262 

Culture .1263 

Annual  Rough-leaved  Summer. . . .  12H4 

Common  or  Winter 1265 

German 1266 

Summer..  ..1267 


RED  CABBAGE.. 
REPERE .  . 


.1268 
.  726 


RHUBARB 1269 

Culture 1270 

Downing's  Colossal 1271 

Elfort 1272 

Hawk's  Champagne 1273 

Wyatt's  Linneous 1274 

Wyatt's  Victoria 1275 

Gaboon 127ft 

Wine 1277 

Water 1278 

Stewed   1279 

RICE 1280 

Boiled  Plain 1281 

Boiled 1282 

Steamed 1283. 

Boiled  with  Broth 1284 

Borders 1285 

For  Purees  or  Bisque  Soups 1286 

Family  Style 1287 

With  Curry ' 1288, 

Creole  Style 1289 

Mexican  Style 1290 

Milanaise  Style 1291 

Spanish  Style 1292 

With  Cabbage,  Ristori  Style 1293 

Parisian  Style 1294 

With  Curcuma  or  Turmeric 1295 

Valencienne  Style 1296 

Turkish  Style 1297 

Risotti— Florentine  Style 1298 

Risotti— Piemontaise  Style 1299 

For  Garniture 1300 

Custard  for  Soup  Garniture,  Lang- 
try  Style 1301 

For  Consomme 1302 

Soup 1303 

"     Indian  Style 1304 

"    with  Milk 1305 

"     Almond  Milk 1306 

"    Italian  Style 1307 

"    Cream,  Rachel  Style 1308 

"          "       Langtry  Style .    1309 

"          "       of  Rice    Flour,  Astor 

Style 1310- 

Water.... 1311 

Gruel...  ..1312- 


GENEBAL   INDEX. 


425: 


RICE— Continued. 

Crusts 1313 

' '      Victoria  Style 1314 

• '      With  Eggs  and  Cheese 13 15 

"          "    Curried  Lobster 1316 

"         "    Puree  of  Chicken 1317 

Casseroles 1318 

How  to  Cook  Rice  for  Casseroles  .  .1319 

Timbals 1320 

Panade  of  Rice  Flour  for  Forced 

Meats 1321 

Croquettes,  Creole  Style   1322 

Fritters  (Subrics) 1323 

Croquettes 1324 

Fritters  (Sweet) 1325 

Cake  (Souffle) 1326 

"      Glazed 1327 

For  Compotes  of  Fruit 1328 

With  Milk  for  Invalids 1329 

Crusts  or  Stands  for  Hot  or  Cold 

Side  Dishes 1330 

How  to  Cook  it  for  Crusts  or  Stands.  1 331 

RISOTTI 

Florentine  Style 1298 

Piemontaise  Style 1299 

ROCAMBOLE 1332 

Culture 1333 

ROCKET 1334 

Culture 1335 

ROSEMARY 1336 

Culture 1337 

Gold  Striped 1338 

Silver  Striped 1339 

Narrow  Leaved 1340 

Common  or  Green  Leaved 1341 

RYE 1342 

Broad  Leaved 1343 

Narrow  Leaved 1344 

RUTA-BAGA,    Russian    or    Swedish 

Turnip '. .  1345 

American  Purple  Top 1346 

Skirving's  Purple  Top 1347 

Shamrock 1348 

Large  White  French 1349 

RYE 1350 

Culture 1351 

SAFFRON. 1352 

Yellow  Coloring  for  Culinary  Pur- 
poses   1353 

SAGE 1354 

Culture 1355 

Broad  Leaved  Green 13f>6 

Common  or  Red  Laaved 1357 


SAGE— Continued. 

Green  Leaved 1358 

Narrow  Leaved  Green 1359 

Dried 1360 

SAGO ..1361 

For  Invalids 1362 

Gruel 1363 

For  Soups 1364 

Soup  with  Cream 1365 

SALAD 

Asparagus,  Plain 86 

"          with  Shrimps 87 

"  "     Trufflas,  Royal 88 

Beans,  String 161 

German  Style 162 

« '        Dry  White,  with  Aspic  Jelly, 

German  Style 1713 

"        Dry  White 181 

Cabbage 314 

"        Boston  Style 315 

"        with    Cream,      American 

Style 316 

Red 317 

"          "    German  Style 318 

Cardoons,  Spanish  Style 370 

Cauliflower -. 429 

Celery 472 

Corn-Salad '. 539 

"         "    with  Beets 540 

"        "        "    Celery 541 

Dandelion 650 

Diplomatic 1702 

Egg  Plant 689 

Endive,  French  Style 704 

"        German  Style 705 

"        American  Style 706 

Lettuce 824 

Okra 963. 

Potato 1209 

"      with  Anchovies  and    Her- 
rings  1210 

"        "      Truffles 1211 

"      Bennett  Style 1212 

"       with    Aspie    Jelly,     Char- 
treuse  1213 

Salsify 1377 

Tomato,  Plain 1566 

"        with  Cucumbers 1567 

Spanish  Style 1568 

"        German  Style 1569 

"        Hesketh  Style 1570 

Truffle,    with  Artichokes,    Luning 

Style 1610 

"  "    Potatoes,       Russian 

Style 1611. 


426 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


SALAD — Continued. 

Vegetable 1698 

"        California  Style 17U7 

"        Swedish  Style 1708 

' '        Compound 1699 

'*        American  Style 1700 

"        Mocedoine 1701 

"        Italian  Style 1703 

' '        Parisian  Style 1704 

"        Russian  Style 1705 

"        Sauerkraut, German  Stylel70ti 
"        with  Aspic   Jelly,    Mace- 

doine.1710 
Jardi- 
niere. 1711 
"       Italian 

Style.  1712 

SALAD  GARNITURES .1366 

SALSIFY  OR  OYSTER  PLANT..  1367 

Culture !368 

How  to  Prepare  it  for  Cooking 1369 

With  Butter  Sauce 1370 

•'      Cream  Sauce 1371 

French  Style.   1372 

With  Brown  Sauce,  Spanish  Style..  1373 

Fried  in  Batter 1374 

"      Villeroi ". 1375 

"     in  Butter 1376 

Salad 1377 

SALEP 1378 

Soup  for  luvalids 1379 

SALT 1H80 

SALTPETER 1381 

SAMPHIRE,  OR  SEA  FENNEL..  1382 

Golden 1383 

Culture 1384 

SAUCE.  Caper 352 

Celery 466 

Cranberry 605 

Fine  Herbs 745 

Horseradish .  753 

Horseradish  with  Apples 759 

Horseradish  with  Cream 760 

Mint,  American  Style 856 

Mint,  French  Style  857 

Mustard  for  Deviled  Meats 935 

Onion.  Brown 993 

Onion,  White 999 

Onion,  Piquant 1000 

Soya 895 

Spiced 1443 

Tomato,  Plain 1582 

Tomato 1583 

Tomato,  Preserved. .  . .  1595 


NO. 

SAUERKRAUT 326 

How  to  Make  it 327 

How  to  Prepare  for  Cooking 328 

German  Siyle 329 

French  Style  330 

Bavarian  Style 331 

Flemish  Style 332 

Baked,  Duf our 333 

Baked,  with  Fillet  of  Soles 334 

Baked,  with  Partridges  or  Quails. .  335 

Salad,  German  Style 1706 

Timbal,  German  Style 1677 

SAVORY 1385 

Culture 1386 

Summer 1387 

Winter 1388 

Use  of 1389 

SAVOY  CABBAGE • 1390 

SCORZONARA,  or  Black  Salsify  .  . .  .1391 
Culture. .  . .' 1392 

SCURVY  GRASS 1393 

SEA  BEET 1394 

Culture 1395 

SEA  KALE 1396 

Culture 1397 

With  Butter  Sauce 1398 

Hollandaise  Style -. 1399 

With  Brown  Sauce 1400 

Puree 1401 

SEMOULE 1 102 

Consomme  with 1403 

Crusts  of,  Palerrnitaine ...  1404 

Balls  (Quenelles)  Villeroi 1405 

SHALLOTS,  OR  ESCHALOTS. . .  .1406 

Culture 1407 

Common  Small 1408 

Jersey 1409 

Long-keeping 1410 

Essence 1411 

SHEPHERD'S  PURSE 1412 

Culture 1413 

SIEVA  OR  SMALL  LIMA  BEAN. 1414 
Mottled 1415 

SKIRRET uie 

SNAKE    OR   SERPENT   CUCUM- 
BER  1417 

Culture 1418 

SORREL 1419 

Culture 1420 

Belle  Ville 1421 

Blistered  Leaf 1422 

Fervent's  Large 1423 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


427 


SORREL  — Continued. 

Sarscelle  Blunt    1424 

French  or  Eouud-leaved     1425 

With  Cream 1426 

With  Gravy 1427 

Puree  for  Garnitures 1428 

Puree  with  Sauce  for  Garniture.. . .  1429 

Soup 1430 

"    for  Fast  Days 1431 

"    with  Cream 1432 

Preserved 1433 

SOUP 

Cabbage 322 

Cabbage.  Garbure 323 

Celeriac 444 

Corn  Chowder 580 

Chestnut  Garbure 490 

Gumbo 867 

Lettuce 825 

Okra,  with  Chicken 867 

Onion 1009 

1 '      Stanislaus  Style 1010 

"      with  Milk 1011 

"     Garbure 1015 

Bice 1203 

"  Indian  Style 13d4 

"  with  Milk 1305 

"  with  Almond  Milk 1306 

"  Italian  Style 1307 

Sago,  with  Cream 1365 

Salep  for  Invalids 1379 

Semoule 1403 

Sorrel 1430 

"      for  Fast  Days 1431 

"      with  Cream 1432 

Tapioca 1520 

SOUP— PUREE 

Artichoke  49 

Asparagus,  Conde 89 

"  Eoyal 90 

"  St.  George 91 

Bean,    Green    Flageolet,    St.    Ger- 
main    196 

Bean,  Green  Flageolet,  Soubise...   197 
Fresh  White,  Newton  Style  198 

'•       Black,  Faubonne 199 

Dry  White,  Pioneer ,  201 

"  "  St.  George 202 

'•  "  Conde 203 

•'      For  Fast  Days 204 

Carrots,  Aurore 396 

"         Stanley 397 

German  Style 398 

"        Crecy 399 

"  "     for  Fast  Days 400 


SOUP— PUREE— Continued. 

Cauliflower 431 

Celery,  Spanish  Style 474 

Chestnut 478 

Jerusalem  Artichoke,  Palestine. ...     64 

Leek,  Viennoise 787 

Lentil,  Conde 798 

Hunter's  Style  799 

Onion,  Bavarian  Style 1012 

"        Bretonne  Style 1113 

Peas,  Green 1080 

'•        "      St.  Germain 1090 

"     Split 1091 

"       "     with  Julienne,  Conde   ..1092 

"     Dried  Green,  German  Style     1093 

Potato,  with  Cream,  Parmentier.   .1205 

Jackson  Style 1206 

Tomato,  American  Style 1585 

trench         "     1586 

with  Eice 1587 

Florida 1588 

Turnip,  with  Cream 1649 

'•     Farina 1650 

SOUP -CREAM 

Artichoke 50 

Asparagus,  Countess 92 

Barley,  Nelson  Style JOS 

' '        Marie  Louise  Style 106 

"        Farragut  Style 107 

Bean,     Green     Flageolet,     Leland 

Style 200 

Brocoli 248 

Cauliflower 430 

Celery 475 

Chestnut,  Hunter's  Style 489 

Corn 579 

Cucumber,  Queen  Style 633 

Endive,  with  Poached  Eggs 707 

Pumpkin 1223 

Eice,  Eachel  Style 1308 

"     Langtry  Style 1309 

"      with  Flour,  Astor  Style 1310 

Wheat,  Green  Farina 1742 

SOUTHERWOOD,  OR   BALM- 
MINT 1434 

SPANISH  OYSTER  PLANT. 1435 

Culture 1436 

SPEAR-MINT 1437 

SPICES 1438 

For  Salted  Beef 1439 

Salt  for  Stuffings   1440 

Infusion  for  Turtle  Soup 1441 

Mixed 1442 

Sauce 1443 

Herbs  and  Flavors  .  .  1444. 


428 


GENEKAL   INDEX. 


SPINACH,  OR  SPINNAGE. 

Culture 

Flanders 

Lettuce-leaved 

Sorrel-leaved 

Summer  round-leaved 

Winter  Common  Prickly.  . . 

How  to  Prepare  for  Boiling 

English  Style 

American  Style 

With  Gravy,  French  Style  . 
"  Milk,  American  Style 
"  Cream  Sauce 

Piemontaise 

For  Garniture 

Fritters  (Subrics) 

Green  Color 

Crt  am  of  . . 


SQUASH 

Culture 

Apple 

Crooked  Neck  Summer  Bush. 

Early  Yellow  Scalloped  Bush. 

Egg 

Green  Striped  Bergen 

Large  Waned  Crooked  Neck  Sum- 
mer   

Orange 

Autumnal  Marrow 

Bush  or  Dwarf  Vegetable  Marrow. . 

Canada  Crooked  Neck 

Cashaw 

Cocoa-nut 

Custard 

Egg-shaped 

Honolulu 

Hubbard 

Mammoth 

Turban   

Vegetable  Marrow 

Wilder 

Winter  Crooked  Neck 

Winter  Striped  Crooked  Neck 

Yokohama 

Mashed 

Stuffed,  Eoman  S'yle  

"  Stanford  Style 

Fried  Stuffed,  American  Style 

"  Boston  Style 

Spanish  Style 

Scolloped,  Astor  Style 

STRAWBERRY  TOMATO,  or  Al 
kekengi 

Purple 

Scarlet. . . 


NO. 

1445 
1446 
1447 
1448 
1449 
1450 
1451 
1452 
1453 
1454 
1455 
1456 
1457 
1458 
1459 
1460 
1461 
1462 

1463 
1464 
1465 
1466 
1467 
1468 
1469 

1470 
1471 
1472 
1473 
1474 
1475 
1476 
1477 
1478 
1479 
1480 
1481 
1482 
1483 
1484 
1485 
1486 
1487 
1488 
1489 
1490 
1491 
1492 
1493 
1494 

1495 
1496 
1497 


STUFFED 

Artichokes,  Bordelaise 32 

"  American  Style 32 

Artichoke  Bottoms,    Clara    Louise 

Kellogg  Style.     36 

Pioneer  Style.     37 

"  "  Italian  Style..     38 

Cabbage 306 

"       Hunter's  Style 307 

Egg  Plant,  American  Style 684 

"         "      Brazilian  Style 685 

"         "      Turkish  Style 686 

"         "      Parisian  Style 687 

Lettuce 819 

Fried 820 

Morels 865 

Mushrooms,  with  Fine  Herbs 887 

"  Italian  Style 888 

Onions 994 

"      American  Style 995 

Peppers,  Bell,  American  Style 1115 

"     French  Style 1116 

"     Brazilian  Style ]117 

"  '  Pickled 1111 

11  "  "      Sharon  Style. 1112 

Potatoes,  Surprise 1187 

Squash,  Roman  Style 1489 

Stanford  Style 1490 

"        Fried,  American  Style . . .  .1491 

Tomatoes,  Provincial  Style 1575 

Mackay  Style 1576 

"  Turkish  Style 1577 

"  American  Style 1578 

Cardinal  Style 1579- 

Truffles 1613 

Turnip  Cabbage 1656 

SUCCOTASH   573 

SWEET  POTATOES 1498 

Culture 1499 

Nansemond 1500 

Large  White 1501 

Kentucky  Early  Eed 1502 

Purple  Skinned 1503 

Ame:  ican  Eed 1504 

Eose  Colored 1505 

Yellow  Skinned, or  Yellow  Carolina.  1506 

Baked 1507 

Boiled 1508 

Fried 1509 

"    Puffed  (Souffle) 1510 

Fritters 1511 

Cream  of,  for  Pies 1512 

Carolina  Cake,  with  Sabayon  Sauce.  1513 
Carolina     Fritteis,     Nellie     Graut 
Style 1514 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


429 


SWEET  POTATOES— Continued. 

Pudding 1515 

Spanish  Style 1516 

SWISS  CHARD,  or  Sea  Kale  Beet. .  .1517 

SYRUP 

A  ngelica 7 

Asparagus 96 

Capillary 354 

TANSY 1518 

TAPIOCA  OR  MANIOCA 1519 

Soup  with  Broth  or  Consomme. . . .  1520 

TARRAGON 1521 

Culture 1522 

Vinegar,  plain 1523 

"         French  Style 1524 

TARTLETS 

Mushrooms  with  Cream 901 

Corn  Meal 714 

TEA 1525 

To  Make  Tea 1526 

Kussian  Style 1527 

Iced 1528 

After  Dinner 1529 

For  Invalids 1530 

Custard,  in  Cups 1531 

THYME 1532 

Culture 1533 

Broad-leaved 1534 

Ntirrow-leaved 1535 

Lemon „ 1536 

TIMBALS 

Egg  Plant,  Mackay  Style 1676 

Rice 1320 

Sauerkraut,  German  Style 1677 

Vegetable  Balls,  Milauaise  Style  .  ..1673 

TOMATO 1537 

Culture '. 1538 

The  Cardinal 1539 

Livingston  Favorite 1540 

Mayflower 1541 

Peifection 1512 

Acme 1543 

Paragon 1544 

The  Trophy 1545 

Champion  Cluster •. 1546 

Apple-shaped 1547 

The  Conqueror 1548 

Bermuda 1549 

Feejee 1550 

Arlington 1551 

General  Grant 1552 

Fig  or  Red  Pear 1553 

Yellow  Plum..  ..1554 


TOMATO— Continued. 

Red  Cherry 1555 

Strawberry  or  Winter  Cherry 1556 

Green  Gage 1557 

Yellow  Cherry 1553 

Yellow  Pear . .  1559 

Queen 1550 

Canada  Victor \~>6l 

Hathaway 's  Excelsior 1562 

Golden  Trophy 1553 

Island  Beauty ]564 

For  Relish 1565 

Salad,  plain 1566 

"       with  Cucumbers 1567 

Spanish  Style 1568 

"      German     "     1559 

•'       Hesketh    "     ,  .. 1570 

Fried 1571 

Stewed 1572 

Baked  Stewed 1573 

How  to  Prepare  them  for  Stuffing. .  1574 

Stuffed,  Provincial  Style 1575 

"        Mackay         "     1576 

"        Turkish         "     1577 

"        American      "     1578 

"        Cardinal        "     1579 

Baked 1580 

For  Garniture 1581 

Plain,  Sauce 1582 

Sauce 1583 

Puree 1584 

Soup-Puree,  American  Style 1585 

"         "        French         "     1586 

Soup,  with  Rice 1587 

"       Florida  Style 1588 

Catsup 1589 

"       1.390 

"       1591 

"      Epicurean  Style 1592 

Yum-Yum 1593 

Preserved 1594 

"          Sauce 1595 

"          Whole  in  Sauce 1596 

Figs,  Preserved 1597 

TONKA  BEAN 1598 

TRUFFLES 1 599 

Whole,  with  Champagne  Sauce   . .   1600 

Italian  Style 1 601 

Piemontaise  Style 1602 

Baked,  with  Cream  Sauce 1603 

"         in  Shells .16(14 

With  Maderia  Wine  Sauce 1605 

Essence  of 1606 

For  Garniture 1607 

For  Cold  Garnitures . .  . ,  1608 


430 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


TRUFFLES— Continued. 

Puree,  for  Garnitures 1609 

Salad,    with     Artichokes,    Luniug 

Style 1610 

Salad,  with  Potatoes, Russian  Sty le.  1611 

Small  Pates,  Bennett  Style 1612 

Stuffed 1613 

TUBEROUS  -  ROOTED       CHICK- 
LING WETCH,   OR  PEA....  1614 

TURMERIC,  OR  CURCUMA 1615 

TURNIP 1616 

Culture 1617 

Early  Purple  Top  Munich 1618 

White  Egg 1619 

Early  White  Stone 1620 

Jersey 1621 

Early  White  Dutch 1622 

Early  White  Flat  Dutch 1623 

Early  Purple  Top 1624 

Cowhorn  or  Long  White 1625 

Purple  Top  Mammoth 1626 

Large  White  Flat  Norfolk 1627 

Pomeranean  White  Globe 1628 

Purple  Top  White  Globe 1629 

Sweet  German 1630 

Seven  T..p 1631 

Early  Yelow  Montagny 1632 

Large  Amber  Globe 1633 

Orange  Jelly  or  Golden  Ball 1634 

Purple  Top  Yellow  Aberdeen 1635 

Early  Yellow  Finland 1636 

Early  Yellow  Malta 1637 

Mashed 1638 

Puree  with  Cream 1639 

Puree  with  Cream,  French  Style. .  .1640 

Glazed  (brown)  for  Garniture 1641 

Glazed  (white)  for  Garniture 1642 

Stewed,  Spanish  Style 1643 

Stewed  with  Onions 1644 

Stewed,  Convent  Style 1645 

Boiled  Plain 1646 

Boiled  with  White  Sauce 1647 

Soup — Puree 1648 

"  "  with  Cream 1649 

"  "  "  Farina 1650 

Pectoral  Broth  with  Turnips 1651 

TURNIP  CABBAGE  or  Kohl-rabi. . .  1652 

Culture : 1653 

Early  white  Vienna 1654 

Early  Purple  Vienna 1655 

Stuffed 1656 

With  Cream  Sauce 1657 

"    Butter  Sauce 1658 

German  Style 1659 

Smothered  and  Glazed 1660 

For  Garnitures. .  1661 


TURNIP-ROOTED    CHERVIL. ...  1662 
Culture 1665 

UNICORN  ROOT 1664 

Culture 1665 

VALERIAN 1666 

Culture 1667 

VANILLA 1668 

Flavor 1669 

Beans 1670 

VEGETABLES 1671 

Balls,  Turkish  Style 1672 

Timbal  of  Balls,  Milanaise  Style  .  .1673 

Borders 1674 

Chart  reusse    1675 

Timbals  of  Egg  Plant,  Mackay  Style  1676 
Timbal  of  Sauerkraut. GermanStyle  1677 

Small  Pates,  Freuch  Style 1678 

"          "       American  Style 1679 

"      Crusts,  Macedoine  Style 1680 

Bread 1681 

Macedoiue,  Spanish  Style 1682 

"  Mexican  Style 1683 

"  German  Style 1684 

"  American  Style 1685 

Large  Maoedoine  Garniture 16S6 

CoLi  Macedoine  Garniture 1687 

Small        "  "          1688 

Large  Garniture,  Peasant  Style.  . .  .1689 
Farmer  Style....  1630 

"  "  Jardiniere 1691 

Small         "  "         1692 

Cold  "  "         1693 

Cold  "  Floral  Style 1694 

Large  Garniture,  Provincial  Style.  1695 

Essence  of 1696 

Frying  Batter  for ..1697 

Salads 1698 

Compound  Salads 1699 

Salad,  American  Style 1700 

Macedoine  Salad 1701 

Diplomatic  Salad 1702 

Salad,  Italian  Style 1703 

"      Pari  iau  Style 1704 

"      Eussian  Style 1705 

Sauerkraut  Salad,  German  Style.. .  1706 

Salad,  California  Style 1707 

Mixed  Salad,  Swedish  Style 1708 

How  to  Prepare  Moulds  with  Aspic 

Jelly  for  Salads 1709 

Salad  with  Aspic  Jelly,  Macedoine.  1710 
"         "         "        "      Jardiniere.  1711 
"         "        "         "   Italian  Style. 17^2 
Bean  Salad  with  Aspic  Jelly,  Ger- 
man Style 1713 

VETCH,  OR  TARE 1714 


GENERAL   INDEX. 


431 


VINEGAR.     Celery 479 

Horseradish 762 

Onion 1018 

Pepper,  Chili 1108 

Pepper 1109 

Tarragon 1523 

Tarragon,  French  Style  1524 

WATER 

Barley,  for  Invalids 109 

' '        for  Gargling Ill 

Lettuce,  for  Invalids 826 

Rhubarb 1278 

Rice 1311 

WATER-MELON. . , 1715 

Culture 1716 

Georgia  Rattlesnake 1717 

Cuban  Queen 1718 

California,  or  Improved  Odella.  .  .  .1719 

Orange 1720 

Citron  and  California  Pie  Melon. . .  1721 

Black  Spanish 1722 

Scaly  Bark 1723 

Mountain  Sweet 1724 

Ice-Cream 1725 

Ferry's  Peerless 1726 

Early  Jersey 1727 

How  to  Serve..  ..1728 


WHEAT 1729 

Michigan  Bronze  or  Mediterranean 

Hybrid 1730 

Valley 1731 

Martin's  Amber 1732 

Democrat 1733 

Fultz 1734 

Clawson 1735 

Red  Mediterranean 1736 

Winter  Pearl .1737 

Invincible 1738 

Adamant 1739 

Green  Mountain 1740 

Broth 1741 

Soup  —  Cream     of    Green    Farina 
Wheat 1742 

WINE 

Rhubarb 1277 

WINGED  PEA 1743 

WITLOEF 1744 

WOOD  SORREL 1745 

Culture 1746 

WORMWOOD 1747 

Roman 1748 

Sea :  1749 

Culture..  ..1750 


